NEWFOUNDLAND, or TERRENEUVE, a large island in the Atlantic Ocean, at the head of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between lat. 46° 38' and 51° 40' N., and lon. 52° 35' and 59° 35' W. It is a dependency of Great Britain entirely separate from the Canadian Dominion; while it exercises rights in Labrador—a strip on the Atlantic on the extreme north-eastern peninsula of Canada, extending from the Strait of Belle Isle, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, northward to Cape Chidley. on the eastern entrance to Hudson Strait; and bounded on the west by the district of Ungava and the eastern portion of the Province of Quebec. Newfoundland is separated on the north-west from Canada by the Gulf; its south-west point approaches Cape Breton; north and north-east are the shores of Labrador, from which it is divided by the Strait of Belleisle; and on its eastern side expands the open ocean. It lies nearer to Europe than any part of America, its most eastern projection being only 1,640 miles from Ireland. It is about 1,200 miles in circumference; its width, at the very widest part, between Capes Ray and Bonavista, is about 300 miles; and its extreme length, from Cape Race to Griguet Bay, about 419 miles, measured on a curve. Its form is somewhat triangular, but exceedingly irregular, owing to its being indented with deep bays, the most remarkable of which are Hare, White and Notre Dame Bays, Bay of Exploits, Bonavista, Trinity and Conception Bays on the east coast; St. Mary's Bay. Fortune and Placentia Bay. on the south coast; and St. George's Bay and Bay of Islands on the west. There are besides these a number of smaller bays and harbors. Many of them are extensive, commodious and well sheltered, with numerous rivulets running into them, while most of the harbors have complete anchorages with clear and good channels. The area of the colony Is 42,734 square miles, with a population, in 1904, of 217,037. Dependent on Newfoundland is Labrador, a peninsular stretch of country which forms the most easterly portion of the American Continent, with an area of 120 000 square miles, and a population, in 1901, of 3,947. The capital of Newfoundland Is St., John's, whose population, including suburbs, is 29,594. The other chief towns of the colony are Harbor Grace (pop., 5,184), Carbonear (pop., 3,703), Twillingate (pop., 3,542), and Bonavista (pop, 3,696). Up to 1864 no attempt had been made to survey the interior of the Island, and practically all of its 42,734 square miles of land was a terra incognita. Since then, year by year has added fresh information as to the character of the country and it may now be said that there is no large extent of territory, the resources and nature of which are not known. The work of Mr. Murray, begun in 1864, is, or was until recently, continued by Mr. James Hawley. To this survey we are indebted for trustworthy information as to the mineral and timber resources of the Island, and the old idea as to the utter worthlessness of the interior has given place to a much more generous estimate of the character and wealth of the colony. The description of large areas of well-timbered land and of soil admirably adapted for cultivation has led to the introduction of the railway and its extension to the west coast of the Island; while within the past few years considerable capital has been invested in the establishment of perfectly equipped saw mills, the productions of which are finding a ready market in England. The highlands are generally rough and uninviting, but the valleys of all the rivers offer inducements to settlement, large areas of land especially in the valley of the Explots and Gander being admirably adapted for farming. In these two valleys the extent of land available for the support of settlement is about 2,100 square miles. The “barrens” of Newfoundland are those districts which occupy the summits of the hills and ridges, and other elevated and exposed tracts. They are covered with a thin and scrubby vegetation, consisting of berry-bearing plants and dwarf bushes of various kinds. Bare patches of gravel and boulders, and crumbling fragments of rock, are frequently met with on the “barrens.” which are generally destitiute of vegetable soil. The sea cliffs are, for the most part, bold and lofty, with deep water close to the shore. The rivers of Newfoundland are numerous, and though the majority are small, yet some attain to respectable size. The largest are the Humber, River of Exploits, Gambo and Great Cod Roy Rivers. The Humber, in its main branch, is about 80 miles long—in its second, or Grand Pond branch, it is about 48 miles in length. The Exploits is, approximately, 200 miles long, and drains about 3,000 square miles of country. The Gander is somewhat over 100 miles long. Nearly all the rivers issue from lakes or ponds in the interior. Many of them abound with excellent salmon. Fresh water lakes and ponds are also numerous. They are found over the face of the entire country—even on the tops of hills. The surface covered with fresh water has been estimated at one-third of the whole Island. Over 60 ponds have been counted from one spot on the north-east mountains of Avalon, some 2 and 3 miles in extent, none less than 100 yards, and not at a further distance than 10 miles from the base of the hill. The principal lakes in the Island are the Gander Pond, Deer Pond, Grand Pond, and Red Indian Pond. The Grand Pond contains an area of about 185 square miles; this includes an island at its south-west end, which comprises an area of about 50 square miles. Deer Pond has an area of about 30 square miles. The Red Indian Pond has an area of 64 square miles. The Gander Pontf, which is 33 miles long, has an area of 44 square miles. The Laurentian system of rocks has the largest spread in Newfoundland. It crops up chiefly in the Long Ray, extending from Cape Ray north and expanding out over the country between the Humber, Grand Lake and Exploits. It may be said to cover about half the Island. The Cambrian or Huronian nearly crosses the peninsula of Avalon, and the Silurian and Carboniferous are largely repre sented. It is in the Silurian that evidences of mineral wealth are found, which gives strong probability that the Island will become some day a great mining centre. Already have immense quantities of copper ore and non pyrites been exported from Bath Cove, Tilt Cove, Little Bay and Pilling Island, and new finds are continually being reported. Claims have been taken out for gold and silver as well as for almost all other commercial metals. Veins of asbestos are now being worked in many places, and give promise of abundance of that mineral and of fine quality. The mineral resources of the Island Include silver, copper, lead, chromic iron, magnetic iron, specular iron, manganese, nickel, plumbago, gypsum, serpentine, jasper, white and black marble, limestone and coal. Traces of gold have also been found by analysis, as well as traces of cadmium and bismuth. The climate being insular, is not liable to so great changes in temperature as is that of the neighbouring continental Provinces, the winter being much milder and the summer not nearly so warm. The average temperature of February, the coldest month, is 22°; of July, the hottest, 60° and of the average year, 40°. the winter lasts from December till April. The summer is short and warm. In May and at the beginning of June dense fogs prevail on the banks and neighbouring shores, but they do not appear to be in the least prejudicial to health. The principal trees of Newfoundland are pine, spruce, birch, larch, willow, ash and fir; and all of these attain to considerable size in the timber districts of the colony, logs of three feet in diameter being quite common at the saw mills. Recumbent and standing evergreens are to be met in great variety; berrygrowing bushes abound in every swamp. European and American grasses, also red and white clover, are abundant. In several sections of the Island agriculture can be carried on with profit. In the neighborhood of many of the lakes and rivers there are valuable alluvia. Potatoes yield well and are of excellent quality; green crops thrive well in many districts. Wheat has been known to yield 30 bushels to the acre. Apples, plums and cherries have been raised with success: gooseberries, strawberries and raspberries of very good quality, are also grown. The only animal peculiar to the Island is the Newfoundland dog, famous the world over. Among the wild animals may be enumerated the deer, the wolf, the bear, the beaver, the Marten and wild cat. Land and aquatic birds are numerous. Seals are numerous on the coasts, as are also whales, grampuses and porpoises; while for fish there is no place in the world comparable to Newfoundland, especially for cod. The famous Grand Bank swarms with cod, and every other variety of fish. These banks form the most extensive submarine elevation on the face of the globe; in their full extent they occupy 6° of lon. and nearly 10° of lat., being over 600 miles in. length and 200 Miles in breadth, with a depth of water varying from 10 to 160 fathoms. The mean depth is estimated at 40 fathoms. The prosecution of the fishery on the Grand Banks has of late years been left largely in the hands of foreigners, principally French and United States fishermen, whilst the shore fishery, which, with less risk, is more convenient, is depended upon by the fishermen of the Island for their principal support. The fishing of the Labrador Coast is engaged in during the months of July, August and September, by about 20,000 fishermen, and yields nearly onehalf the fish export of the Island. The cod fishery opens in June and lasts till the middle of November, and may be said to form the chief occupation of the inhabitants of the Island. In 1902, the value of the exports of dried cod was $5,660,680, and that of tinned lobsters, $580,000. The value of the exports in the same year of cod and seal oil was collectively $854,440. The seal fishery is the next in importance. Up to 1857 some four hundred vessels, with crews of about 13,000, took part in the fishery, but since then there has been a gradual decline in the prosecution of this trade. In 1863, the first steamer took part in the fishery, and now there are 22 engaged. The largest number of seals taken was 686,836 in 1831. The catch in 1901 was about 260,000, a large proportion of which were taken on the shore. The export values in 1902, of seal skins and seal oil, was $822,240. The lobster fishery is one of recent origin, but has taken rank as one of great in portance. In five years, the export has been over $2,090,000, and it is hoped that the efforts of the Fishery Commission in artificial hatching will not only prevent a falling off in the catch, but materially add to it. The salmon and herring fisheries are not so prolific or profitable as they might be made were more attention given to them. Jointly they may be said to be worth $250,000 a year to the colony. The value of the colony's exports for the year 1904-5 was $10,669,542, the value of the imports for the same year (1904-5 was $10,279,293. The revenue for the year 1904-5 amounted to $2,513,633; while the expenditure was $2,654,266. The Government of Newfoundland pays $120,000 annually for the steam service of the colony. The steamers subsidized are the Allan Line to and from Liverpool and Halifax, or some port in the Dominion or United States, once a fortnight; 1 steamer once a fortnight from St. John's northward; 1 steamer once a fortnight from St. John's westward: 1 to convey the Judges on Circuit all over the Island; and 1 on the Labrador coast, running once a fortnight along the shore from south to north and vice versa, giving information to the fishermen where the fish is most abundant. The public affairs of Newfoundland are administered by a Governor, an executive Council of 9 members, a Legislative Council of 18 members, and a Legislative Assembly of 36 representatives. The judicial department comprises a Supreme Court, with a Chief and 2 assistant judges; a Vice-Admiralty Court and a District Court. The public school system is based on the denominational principle, the grant from the general revenues for educational purposes being appropriated to the schools of the different denominations according to population by last census. The system, though unobjectionable in its application to large centres of population, is particularly Ineffective in the smaller places, where sometimes three schools will be found among a few hundred people, no one of which have the means of Providing a competent teacher, or suitable apparatus. Higher education is Provided for through 4 colleges, all supported from the general educational grant and by tuition fees, and conducted denominationally. Bishop Field College is the designation of the Church of England establishment; St Bonaventure that of the Roman Catholic. The others are the Methodist. College and the Presbyterian College. Under a council of higher education, a system of examinations has been worked out, which has been applied with the greatest advantage to the school system of Newfoundland, and especially to the colleges. About 1,000 children took this examination last summer and prizes, diplomas and scholarships were awarded to the successful candidates. According to the latestreturns, 1904-5 the Church of England have 249 board and other schools, 21 Colonial and Continental Church Society's schools. The Roman Catholic Church has 215 board schools, 20 convent schools 4 colleges and academies, 3 Christian Brother schools. The Methodists have 237 board schools, 1 college and 1 grammar school. There are besides. 10 other denominational schools. The total number of government schools in Newfoundland is 707. and the number of pupils was 33,450. The total expenditure for school is $180,342.25, and the cost of each pupil $4.34. The total population attending school was, in 1904, 41,523. The inhabitants of Newfoundland are principally the descendants of the settlers from England and Ireland. Fishing is the chief occupation of the population, the value of the fish caught being over five million dollars annually. In 1901 there were 85,533 acres of cultivated land, the chief products raised being hay, barley, oats, potatoes, turnips, and other root crops. The Aboriginal inhabitants knewn as Red Indians have been extinct for many years past. There are some Micmacs in the Island, but not Many. The Reid Newfoundland Railway is now completed, and extends from St. John's to Port___ Basques (545 miles from St. John's), with branch lines to important towns and settlements. The total length of railways open is 634 miles, with a 3 ft. 6 in. gauge. The telegraph lines open are 1,952 miles in length. Communication between various points ou the coast, and between the Island and the Continent, is maintained by a fleet of firstclass steamers, each of which connects with some central point on the railway. The following table show's the districts into which the Island is divided, with the population of each in 1901:

St. Barbe: 8,134

Twillingate: 19,453

Fogo: 7,570

Bonavista: 20,557

Trinity: 20,695

Bas-de-Verde: 9,827

Carbonear: 5,024

Harbor Grace: 12,671

Port au Grave: 7,445

Harbor Main:9,500

St. John's East: 21,512

St. John's West: 18,483

Ferryland: 5,697

Piacentia and St. Mary's: 15,194

Burin: 10,402

Fortune Bay: 8,762

Burgeo and La Poile: 7,011

St. George: 9,100

Labrador: 3,947

Total: 217,037

The religious denominations, according to the census of 1901, are as follow's:

Church of England: 73,008

Church of Rome: 75,989

Wesleyan Methodist: 61,388

Prebyterian: 1,497

Other denominations (chiefly Salvation

Army (men and women): 9,102

Total: 220,984

Paces of worship: Church of England 81; Church of Rome 59; Wesleyan Methodist. 42; all other denominations 6.

Newfoundland is suprosed to have been discovered by Northmen about the year 1,000. It was re-cliscovered by Sir John Cabot and his sou Sebastian on the 24th June, 1497. A secernent was subsequently formed by seme Potuguese adventurers, who were in turn expelled by Sir Francis Drake, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. After this period numerous English colonies were established from time to time along the eastern coast, and several French along the southern, in the Bay of Placentia. For a series of years the colony existed merely as a fishing settlement, and was much . disturbed by the French, until in 1713, it was declared by the Treaty of Utrecht to belong wholly to Great Britain, the French reserving a right to fish on certain parts of the coast; the rocky islets of St. Pierre and Miquelon being also assigned to them, on condition that they should not be us d for military purposes. By a treaty between Great Britain end France, negotiated in 1904. France, in consideration of certain privileges ceded to her elsewhere, entirely abandoned her claim to treaty shore rights, which thus reverts now in full sovereignty to Newfoundland. The first governor of the Island was appointed in 1728, and the first Legislative assembly met on the first of January, 1833. The most noteworthy town on the Island is St. John's, the capital. It has telegraphic communication with Canada, the United States and Europe, as well as with the most important places on the Island. Newfoundland is the only portion of British North America not yet incorporated in the Dominion of Canada.

LABRADOR, an extensive peninsula on the north-east coast of the Canadian Dominion, a dependency of the Colony of Newfoundland, lat. from 53° to 63° N., and lon. 56° to 65° W., bounded on the south-east and east by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Atlantic; on the north by Hudson Strait; on the south by the Straits of Belle Isle, and on the west by the eastern sections of the Province of Quebec and Ungava district, N.E.T. Extreme length 1100 miles; breadth 170 miles. Area estimated at 150,000 square miles. Blanc Sablon, near the mouth of the North West River, is the eastern boundary of the Canadian part of this great peninsula, which includes the whole area draining into the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence. The portion belonging to Newfoundland is roughly defined as that which is drained by rivers flowing into the Atlantic. The remaining area, draining into Hudson Bay, is called East Main, and is included in the North East (Ungava) Territory of the Dominion of Canada. The interior of Labrador is very imperfectly known. Professor Hind, who explored it, describes it thus: “The table land is 2,240 feet above the ocean at the sources of the east branch of the Moisie. It is pre-eminently sterile, and where the country is not burned, cariboo moss covers the rocks. in the hollows and deep ravines are to be found stunted spruce, birch and aspens. The whole of the table-land is strewed with an infinite number of boulders, sometimes 3 and 4 deep. These singular erratics are perched on the summit of every mountain and hill, often on the edges of cliffs, and they vary in size from 1 foot to 20 feet in diameter. Language fails to paint the awful desolation of the table-land of the Labrador peninsula.” The principal water-shed (which includes Ungava district as well as the territory under the political government of Newfoundland) is formed by the Wotchish Mountains sending the water which gathers on its side, west, north and east. The principal rivers are the Hamilton River, Alexis, Fraser, Barren Grounds, and North Rivers. Of these, the largest is Hamilton River, which finds its way north-eastward into the Atlantic by way of Lake Melville and Hamilton Inlet. The prevailing rocks on the coast are granite, gneiss and mica-slate. Above these, in some parts, is a bed of old red sandstone, about 200 feet thick, followed by secondary limestone. Towards the interior, the secondary formations disappear, and the primary become predominant. The surface, when seen at a distance from the sea, has a green and alluvial appearance, but is found, on examination, to be covered with moss and stunted shrubs. in the valleys, where the soil is sandy, and the temperature considerably above the average, juniper, birch and poplar trees are found growing, and form a covert during the summer for deer, bears, wolves, foxes, martens, otters, etc., till the approach of winter drives them to the coast. The climate is too severe to ripen any of the ordinary cereals. Barley, sown and cut green, makes excellent fodder; potatoes and several species of culinary vegetables are said to do well. The whole of this vast wilderness is uninhabited by civilized man, with the exception of a few settlements on the St. Lawrence and Atlantic coasts, and inland by some widely separated posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Wandering tribes of Esquimaux occupy the northern coast of Labrador while nomadic tribes of Naskapees, Mistassini and Montagnais Indians are thinly scattered over the interior. The exports, which are chiefly through Newfoundland, are codfish, salmon, seal and whale oil, and furs. Once the country was rich in fur-bearing animals and cariboo or reindeer, but these are now greatly reduced in numbers. Of the eastern side hardly anything is known beyond the coast, which has been carefully surveyed by Capt. Bayfield. Before his day it was on this bleak and dangerous coast that the great navigator, Captain Cook, first displayed those talents as a marine surveyor, which gained for him the patronage of Sir Hugh Palliser, and drew public attention to his extraordinary enterprise. His charts of Newfoundland. Labrador and the Straits of Belleisle are, to this day, a convincing proof of his fidelity, genius and discernment. The Indians who inhabit the interior of Labrador are all tribes of the once great Algonquin race, whose domains extended, before the arrival of the “pale faces,” from the Rocky Mountains to Newfoundland, and from Labrador to the Carolinas. The aborigines of Newfound land belonged to this wide-spread race of red men. The Montagnais or Mountaineers, as they are commonly called, occupied the country along the lower St. Lawrence and the Gulf; the Scoffis, Naskapees, and Mastassini are the Algonquins of Labrador proper, and co-terminous with the Esquimaux. The Mountaineers, or “Hunting Indians” of Labrador, once formed a “great nation,” and could bring into the field a thousand warriors to repel the incursions of the Esquimaux, with whom they were constantly at war, and for whom they have still a bitter hatred and contempt. They are slothful when not excited by war or the cause; cruel, revengeful and superstitious. Nearly all of them, like the Micmacs of Nova Scotia, profess the Roman Catholic faith: but they have imbibed little of the spirit of Christianity. They bring down furs to the settlements on the coast, and exchange them for ammunition and clothing. in the use of firearms they are very expert; but they are frequently compelled by a scarcity of ammunition, to recur for support to their original weapons, the bow and arrow, and with these they can kill a flying partridge at forty yards distance. Their canoes are made of birch-bark, and their sledges of a thin birch-board, shod with slips of bone. The Mountaineers draw their own sledges, as their dogs are but small and used only for the purpose of hunting. The Esquimaux of Labrador live almost entirely by fishing. They are partially Christianized and civilized through the praiseworthy exertions of Moravian missionaries. The following is the religious census of Labrador, for the year 1901: Moravians, 1377; Anglicans, 1,538; Methodists, 688; Roman Catholics, 332; Baptists and others, 7; these figures account for all but five of the total population of Labrador, as per the census of 1901, the figures being 3,947. They exchange furs, oil and whalebone for ammunition, guns and clothing at the European settlements. They are mild, hospitable and honest. They are well provided with a peculiar breed of dogs, voracious and fierce, and so like wolves that they might easily be mistaken for these animals. in winter the Esquimaux travel with these dogs over the snow at the rate of six to ten miles an hour; each sledge is drawn by ten or twelve dogs, yoked two and two, a pair of the most sagacious being placed in front as leaders, and the whole guided by a long whip, without reins, the lash extending to the foremost dogs. There are no cattle or horses in Labrador, goats supplying the milk, and dogs the means of locomotion. Their huts are, in winter, embanked with turf and moss, excepting a small casement of oiled seal skin at the top. Without any fire but a lamp, these habitations are as warm as an oven. The passionate attachment of the Esquimaux to their frozen seas and icy plains is wonderful. They infinitely prefer their storm-beaten shores to the gentle waves and cerulean skies of more temperate regions. It is clear that they are a totally different race from the Red Indians of America. The Esquimaux are stunted in stature and essentially Mongolian in physiognomy, having a flattened nose, prominent profile and copper-colored skin. It is remarkable that the Esquimaux is the only family common to the Old World and the New. Daring the brief Labrador summer the whole coast, for five hundred miles north of the Straits of Belleisle, is frequented by fishermen from Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Quebec, and the United States. They are engaged in the capture and cure of cod, salmon and herring. The total value of these fisheries is not less than a million sterling. Most of the fishermen who frequent Labrador in summer are from Newfoundland. They proceed to the various fishing stations along the coast, in small vessels, often taking their families along with them, and reside ashore in temporary huts. They arrive about the end of June, when the ice is pretty well cleared away from the coast, arid remain till the first or second week in October. A considerable part of the cod, salmon and herring is shipped by the supplying merchants direct from Labrador to foreign ports, but more of it is taken to St. John's, Harbor Grace, and other places, where it is stored to be shipped according to the demand of the foreign markets. Bleak and savage as are the shores of Labrador, yet their aspect is often picturesque and grand, and sometimes strangely beautiful. At Cape Chateau is a series of basaltic columns wrought into the shape of an ancient castle (hence its name), the turrets, arches, loop-holes and keeps all beautifully represented. Here are materials for an artist, not less attractive than the renowned Cave of Fingal. The famous Labrador feldspar is well known, and is abundant near the European settlements on the southern portion of the peninsula of Labrador.

Labrador was discovered by Cabot in 1497: and rediscovered by Hudson in 1610. The European settlements, all on the east coast, consist of Forteau and Brador Bays, Anse Le Blanc, and the Moravian stations; Main, Okhak, Hopedale and Hebron. The Hudson Bay Company have several settlements in Labrador, and receive many valuable furs from it. The total population is supposed to be about 4000. Of late there has been no little hardship in Labrador, owing to the continued failure of the fisheries, and aid has been extended the people. A missionary vessel, donated by Sir Donald A. Smith (Lord Strathcona), also plies along the coast.