Cumberland is bounded on the west by the Irish sea, in to which its coast projects somewhat in the form of a bow, for an extent of nearly 70 miles on the north. It is separated from Scotland by Solway Frith, the Scots Dyke, and the river Liddel: its eastern side is skirted by the counties of Northumberland and Durham; its boundaries on the south are Westmorland and Lancashire; from the former it is partly divided by Ullswater, and the river Eamont, and from the latter by the river Duddon. Its greatest extent is about 80 miles, but its mean length is not more than 60; its general breadth is nearly 35, and its circumference about 224. It contains about 1516 square miles, or 970,240 acres; of these 342.000 comprise the mountainous districts.

The south-west part of Cumberland is in a manner insulated and cut off from all easy safe and ready communication with the southern and western parts of the kingdom: on the one hand by the barrier of mountains, which stretch from Kendal and Ulverston to Penrith and Keswick; and on the other by the flow of the tides over the Lancaster, Cartmel, and Duddon sands; by which the passage is not only interrupted for several hours twice a day, but also rendered very unsafe and dangerous: all which might be avoided by proper embankments, and at the same time a great quantity of land might be gained from the sea.

Name and Ancient History

Cumberland derived its name from the Cimbri, or Cumbri, the aboriginal inhabitants, but who were, in common with those of Yorkshire, Lancashire, Durham, and Westmorland, called, by Ptolemy, the Brigantes.

The nation of the Brigantes, known by the name of the Cumbri, are supposed not to have been subjugated by the Romans till the time of Vespasian, from which time their country was the constant residence of several Roman legions, who not only kept the inhabitants from revolting, and prevented the incursions of the Scots, but greatly improved the country.

When Cumberland was subdued by the Saxons, upon the declension of the Roman power in Britain, it became part of the kingdom of Northumberland, and was then, by its new lords, first called Lumbraland, or Lumer land, the land or country of the Cumbri.

From the time when the power of the Saxons was broken by the Danes, till the year 946, this county had petty kings of its own chusing; but about that time Edmond, brother to king Ethelstan, having with the help of Leontine, king of South Wales, conquered the country, granted it to Malcolm, king of Scotland, upon condition that he should defend the northern parts of England, against all invaders; and by virtue of this grant, the eldest sons of the kings of Scotland, were styled governors of Cumberland. The Saxons some time afterwards reduced it again under their government; but at the time of the Norman conquest it was so impoverished, that William the Conqueror remitted all its taxations, for which reason it is not rated in the Doomsday Book, as other counties are.

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CUMBERLAND is a maritime county at the north-western corner of England, and is about 70 miles in length from its junction with Northumberland and Scotland to Haverigg point in the extreme south, and its breadth, from the sea coast to its Durham boundary, is 44 miles; its western boundary is the Solway Frith and the St. George’s channel, its south-western the same channel; on the north-west it is bounded by Scotland, from which it is separated by the river Liddel; in the south-east the rivers Eamont and Tees separate it from Westmorland, and the river Duddon from the Furness portion of Lancashire; on the east it is bounded by Northumberland and Durham, and on the north-east by the former county. The county is of very irregular formation, and has 60 miles in extent of coast line; its area is 970,161 acres; it is eleventh in size of the counties of England, but is very thinly peopled, there being only twelve counties with less population; the number of inhabitants, however, has slowly increased at the several censuses, viz.: —

1801 – 117,230.

1811 – 133,665.

1821 – 156,124.

1831 – 169,262.

1841 – 178,038.

1851 – 195,492.

1861 – 205,276.

1871 – 220,245.

1881 – 250,647.

1891 – 266,549.

The population in 1891 comprised 132,080 males, and 134,469 females, and the inhabited houses were 52,361.

Of the aborigines of Cumberland nothing is known; but some of the geographical names attest Iberian occupation, as the Tyne, Tees and Nent. The Celts succeeded the Iberians, and the Belgians do not seem to have reached so far. Of Iberian, or Druidical remains there are many in the hills. At Kirkoswald is the temple, or circle of rough stones, called Long Meg and her Daughters, and there is another near Keswick. At the time of the Roman invasion the great Celtic tribes of the Brigantes had possession of this country, and were beaten A.D. 120 or 121 by the Romans, and Hadrian then caused a wall to be built across the island from frith to frith against the outer barbarians. A Roman road ran parallel with the wall; another passed from Westmorland a little east of Penrith, northward through the county, crossing the wall at Stanwix, thence to Longtown, passing the Solway Moss to Scotland From Longton a Roman road passed north-east to Dumfriesshire, Three roads diverged from Ellenborough, one along the coast towards Bowness, another to Papcastle, and the third north-eastward to Old Carlisle, which it passed eastward of Carlisle cathedral. Another Roman road connected the stations at Plumpton Wall and Ambleside in Westmorland From Egremont a road passed north-east towards Cockermouth. The district was part of the Roman province of Maxima Caesariensis, and included many towns, garrisons, and settlements. Luguvallium, now Carlisle, was a city under the Latian law. There are remains of Roman stations to be seen at Maryport, Old Carlisle, Old Penrith, and Bewcastle. The names of Roman sites to be recognised are not so many as in southern districts. They include Papcastle, Muncaster, Burgh-by-Sands, Longburgh, Drumburgh, Broughton, Stapleton, Walton (two), Orton (four), Brackenborough, Burghthwaite, Burtholme, Braughill, Garborough, Solport, Ellenborough, Plumpton, Heyborough, Ainstable, Stanwix, Stonecraise, Brampton, Broomhill, Bowness, Castlerigg, Wallcastle, Trough, Troughfoot, Troughton, Walby, Walhead and Three Staintons.

The Roman Wall: This great work (of which a full account is given in Kelly’s Directory of Northumberland) extended from Wallsend on the Tyne to Bowness on the Solway Frith, and of the entire length, computed at about 73 ½ miles, rather more than one-third traverses the county of Cumberland The wall, in its complete form, consisted of three parts: 1. A stone wall with a ditch on its northern side. 2. A continuous earthwork, usually called “the Vallum,” always to the south of the wall, but at varying distances according to the nature of the country, and consisting of two ramparts or aggers about 70 feet apart, with a ditch between them, on the southern margin of which, whenever the slope is from north to south, there is an additional defence in the form of an earthen mound, varying in height and gradually diminishing as the slope changes. 3. Stations, castles, and watch-towers, generally placed between the two lines of fortifications, but not unfrequently south of them, and sometimes to the north of the wall; and there were also roads communicating between all these, and others proceeding at certain points to the north and south. The wall enters this county at Gilsland, and runs in a directly south-west course towards Carlisle, rising slightly from the general line at Walton and Walby; it passes the city a little to the north, and then turning westward makes for its termination at Bowness; at Beaumont and Grinsdale it deviates to the north, the vallum pursuing a straight course, and between Burgh-on-Sands and Drumburgh the exact direction of both is undecided. The first station on the wall in this county, and the 12th on the line, reckoning from the eastern terminus at Wallsend (“Segedunum”), is at Birdoswald, in the township of Waterhead, and parish of Gilsland, and from the inscriptions found within or near its limits it has been satisfactorily identified as the “Amboglanna” of the “Notitia”: but the remaining six principal camps or stations, up to Bowness, have not as yet been certainly determined. The wall immediately west of Birdoswald is singularly well preserved, and the vallum, besides presenting a bolder outline, has a supernumerary ditch on its northern side, beginning a little to the west of the station and terminating at Wallbowers, and believed by later investigators to have been originally designed for the fosse of the wall, which eventually was taken along a line about 150 yards further north, skirting the northern edge of what was once a morass. Midway between the two points mentioned, and again in the woods of Lanercost, the slope of the vallum is strongly south, and the mound on the southern margin of the ditch is well marked, but the height and thickness of this feature vary very greatly. Near Wallbowers mile castle is Coombe Crag, once a Roman quarry, and retaining some Roman inscriptions; further on, at Banks Head, was another mile castle, the site of which is now scarcely traceable, and indications of a third remain on Hare Hill, together with a fragment of the wall and a projecting turret. Both Lanercost and Walton House, have been suggested as the site of “Petriana,” the 13th station on the line, and the discovery of an inscription near Banksburn in 1859 seems to favour the former view; near Randelands are slight traces of a mile castle, and beyond it another portion of the wall, which runs past How Gill, Low Wall, Dove Cote, King Water, and Cambeck Water to Walton House station, called by Camden “Castlesteads,” and by Horsley “Cambeck Fort”; and a mile and a half south, near Brampton Old Church, are the remains of a large camp; the wall continues through Beck to Newtown, in Irthing ton parish, near which is the site of a mile castle, and proceeding between Cumrenton and Hurtleton, where it swerves to the north, reaches Oldwall, the site of another mile castle. At Watchcross, in the parish of Crosby-upon-Eden, and about a mile south, is a camp, locally known as “Steadfolds,” and conceived by Horsley to be “Aballaba,” the 14th station, a view which Dr. Bruce is disposed to accept, and at High Stead, near Bleatarn, a hamlet in the parish of Irthington, is the traditional site of another mile castle, near which an altar erected by the 6th Legion was found in 1852. In passing Wallhead, Walby and Wallfoot, the course of the wall is indicated principally by its fosse, but on nearing Tarraby and from thence to Stanwix, the line of fortification is easily traced. Stanwix, the 15th of the principal stations on the line of wall, and regarded by Horsley as the “Congavata” of the “Notitia” (a species of Roman Army list) is 5 miles from the station at Watchcross, and 8 miles from that at Walton House. Its identity, however, has been much disputed, and although the site has furnished a number of sculptured fragments of stone, no inscriptions have as yet been found to determine the question. Leaving this station, the wall crossed the Eden by a bridge, vestiges of which still existed in the time of Camden, and then turned westward, avoiding the city of Carlisle (“Luguvallium”), and proceeded by the south bank of the river to Kirkandrews, the churchyard of which was probably the site of a mile castle; and “Kirksteads” in this parish has been suggested by Mr. Maughan as affording indications of a subsidiary station, possibly “Glannibanta.” At this point the wall makes a considerable detour to the north, passing through Beaumont, while the vallum, pursuing an almost direct line, rejoined it at Burgh-upon-Sands, the station at which, 5 ½ miles from Stanwix, was regarded by Horsley as the “Axelodunum” of the “Notitia,” others preferring to identify it with “Gabrosentae” or “Alionis.” From Burgh to Dykesfield, a hamlet in the western part of that parish, the wall, although much of its material has been taken away for building purposes, can be followed by the remains of its foundations, but the vallum, which throughout this distance is very imperfect, disappears altogether before it reaches Longburgh. Between Dykesfield and Drumburgh the track of the wall seems doubtful, some maintaining that it took a straight course across the marsh, and others, including Dr. Bruce, that it deviated to the south by way of Bonstead and Easton. At Drumburgh, 4 ½ miles from Burgh, was the 17th station, which Horsley takes to be “Gabrosentae,” Maughan preferring “Olenacum”: striking hence, the wall made for the shore, along which it ran past Westfield and Kirkland to Port Carlisle, and traces of it are yet visible at intervals, the remaining portion of the wall from Port Carlisle to Bowness, though much weather-beaten and overgrown, existed in parts to a height of 6 feet, until a comparatively recent period; it was destroyed, however, previous to 1867, but its foundations are still visible, and in some places there are indications of the northern fosse. Bowness, the site of the 18th and last station, has been variously identified with “Virosidum Banatia,” and “Tunnocelum,” but the point is as yet unsettled; the wall is believed, from local evidences, to have been continued here by the north front of the station, a length of about 100 yards, and thence down a natural ridge of land, till it reached the water’s edge.

The Scots and Picts harassed the country in the latter part of the Roman time and long after. The Welsh inhabitants constituted a kind of state, which has been called Cumbria, and extended from the Mersey to the Clyde, and was one of the chief seats of Welsh power. Of this occupation there are now few traces.

The English gradually pressed on the Cumbrian border and exterminated the Welsh, or drove them out as exiles to Wales: it was then held as a dependency of the English in Northumbria, or the Scotch lowlands. In 945 it was held by Malcolm, King of Scotland, and continued to be so held by those kings from time to time until 1237, when it was at length annexed to England.

Being on the borders of Scotland much of the north was the seat of frequent wars and forays, and it suffered likewise in most of the civil wars-as in the Parliamentary war, and in the advance of the Old Pretender in 1715, and of the Young Pretender in 1745. Salom Moss, in the extreme north-west of the county, was the scene (25th November, 1542) of an encounter between a Scottish force, under Oliver Sinclair, and the English troops, in which the former were repulsed.

We find here Coldstones, Coldkell (no Cold Harbour), Windyhill, Windhall, Windybrow, Windyslack, Windyhall, Cunningarth, Conyfield. Of the roads the names are the Maidenway, Holloway, Bankridge, and the Edge.

There are many varieties of topographical terms in Cumberland, besides those referring to Iberian, Celtic, Roman and Norman sites. Few of the English clan names are to be recognised, as Cumberland was occupied after the period of the clan emigration from Jutland The termination in ton is common; ham, wick, stead, worth, stoke, thorn, hope, and cot, are rare. By is very common. Among other terms are biggin, bothel, haven, month, gill, force, scale, forth, water, mere, tarn, beck, burn, kirk, cough, ring, field, land, close, ley, garth, hill, gate, dale, shaw, croft, thwaite, moor, holm, how, row, head, side, et, with, wath, car, main, ey, syke, pike, fell, ness, hill, keld, clough or cleugh, meal, wreay, crake, bank, bow, well, pool, cliff, bury, barrow, cross, dean, dyke, crag, bottom, grove, gap, edge, brow, and moss.

The surface of the county along the coast and through the centre from north to south is tolerably level, but the other parts are very mountainous. The tracts of mountains or fells, as they are called, are above 2,000 feet in height, and in some instances reach 3,000 feet; the fells occupying the south-western portion of the county are the highest, comprising Scafell, 3,161 feet; Helvellyn, 3,033; Skiddaw, 3,022; Great Gable, 2,949; Angle Tarn, 2,903; Bowfell, 2,911; Saddleback, 2,847; and Great Dodd, 2.804 feet. The mountains in the east are not so lofty, the principal being Cross fell, 2,901 feet; Skirwith fell, 2,562; Ouseby fell, 2,429; and Melmerby fell, 2,331 feet above the level of the sea.

Among the southern fells occurs some of the most picturesque scenery, and several beautiful lakes, which attract many visitors, the chief of these being described below.

Ulleswater Lake is in both Cumberland and Westmorland, the boundary line between the two running through the centre of its upper and middle reaches, and then going directly west, thus leaving the lower reach of the lake entirely in Westmorland; these Teaches are caused by the configuration of the lake, the course of which is twice altered at a considerable angle; the lake is 7 ½ miles long, and about ¾ mile wide, and has an extreme altitude of 477 feet above the sea level, its greatest depth, according to a bathymetrical survey taken in 1893 by Dr. R. H. Mill, for the Royal Geographical Society, being 208 feet; this survey also revealed the interesting fact that the bottom of the lake was divided into a series of deep basins separated from each other by intervening bars; the fells on the east side vary in elevation from 715 feet at How Town to 2,154 feet at Place Fell, by the south extremity, and 2,201 at Loadpot Hill, east of Martindale, through which the Roman road, called High street, runs from Penrith southwards; on the west side of the lake the fells rise from 904 feet, at its northern point, to 1,945 at Brown hills, and beyond are Stybarrow Dodd, 2,756 feet, and Great Dodd, 2,804 feet; the lake is fed from the south by the Red Tarn, Griesdale and Coldrill becks, and various rivulets discharge themselves into it on either side, while from the northern end issues the river Eamont, which runs into the Eden; some of the finest views of the lake are obtained from Hallien Fell (1,271 feet), on the eastern shore, and Gowbarrow Park on the west, but the general survey is best made by taking the steamer, which Tuns four times daily, to and from Pooley Bridge to Howtown and Patterdale, where there are some good hotels.

The lake of Derwentwater, which is less than half a mile distant from the town of Keswick, towards the south-west, lies at a height of 238 feet above the sea level, but its own level is subject to a considerable rise during the prevalence of heavy rains. The lake is about a mile or rather more in extreme width, its length from north to south being about 3 miles, and its greatest depth, according to a bathymetrical survey taken in 1893 by Dr. R. H. Mill for the Royal Geographical Society, is 72 feet. The grandeur of the encircling mountains, and the charming effect of the islets upon its surface, cause it to he most attractive and beautiful; the river Derwent, rising on Scawfell Pike to the south, and flowing through Borrowdale, falls into the lake through a tract of marshy ground, simultaneously with the Watendlath beck, which creates the famous cataract of Lodore; to the north of the lake rises Lonscale Fell (2,344 feet), and beyond it the majestic form of Skiddaw (3,060 feet); to the east are Walla Crag, Bleaberry Fell (1,932 feet), and High Seat (1,996 feet); the Brockle beck falls into the lake on this side, and more to the south it receives another beck, on which is the Barrow Waterfall, which has a descent of 124 feet; west of the lake is the vale of Newlands, watered by a beck of the same name; the further heights on this side are Grisedale Pike (2,593 feet), and Cawsey Pike (2,205 feet), and on the hither side of the valley above the lake shore, rise Swinside (803 feet), and Cat Bells (1,482 feet).

Bassenthwaite Water, to the north of Derwentwater, is nearly four miles in length, narrowing from a width of one mile at the northern extremity, to about a quarter of a mile at the south end on the western shore; the banks are well wooded, and the land rises steeply to a hilly ridge, beyond which towers the grand outline of Skiddaw. The best view of the lake is obtained from Allock Pike; a coach runs round the lake in the afternoon during the season from Keswick, and facilities are afforded for boating and fishing.

Buttermere lies not far from Derwentwater, about 4 ½ miles south-west, and is 1 ¼ miles in length, nearly half a mile broad and 90 feet deep. In form it is oblong, and sweeps round a promontory at its south end. The scenery around is grand in the extreme, especially on the west side; a long range of mountain slopes, rising to the lofty ridges of High Crag (2,443 feet) and High Style (2,643 feet), stretch from end to end of the lake, everywhere descending precipitously to its shores; on this side the cascade called Sour Milk Gill, issuing from Bleaberry tarn, rushes down the steep side of the mountain, appearing like a thread of silver, and forming a striking feature in the scene; on the eastern side of the lake the shore is well wooded, and the fells rise finely towards Robinson (2,417 feet) and the mountain valleys, traversed by the feeders of the Newlands beck. A stream flowing through the intervening meadows, connects this lake with Crummock Water.

Crummock Water, 3 miles long, three-quarters of a mile broad, and 132 feet deep, lies west of Derwentwater and north of Buttermere, among bold and rugged hills; the water abounds with fish, and boats can be had at the hotels at Loweswater and Buttermere.

Loweswater, north-west of Crummock Water, is about a mile in length and half a mile wide.

Ennerdale water or lake, situated further south-west, near Egremont, and among the fells of that name, possesses, from the wildness and stern solemnity of the surrounding scenery, much of the impressive character of Wastwater, and the grandeur of the mountain about and beyond its treeless shores, is not exceeded by any similar features in the district; the lake, which is 369 feet above the sea level, is 2 ½ miles long and 2—3 of a mile wide, and on the north-west forms a small rounded bay or inlet; the total area is about 1,400 acres, and its deep waters afford good trout and clear fishing and boating; at its southern end it receives the river Liza; at the north end is the Angler’s” inn, a comfortable hostelry, erected in 1855, and much resorted to; to the north is Great Borne (2,019 feet), Starling Dodd (2,085 feet), and on the north of the Liza valley Is High Stile (2,643 feet); towards the upper part of this valley is Black Sall pass through which Wastwater may be reached, and beyond on the south side of the valley is the Pillar mountain (2,927 feet), including the pillar rock, a bold cliff, rising out of the mountain side, and believed until 1826 to be inaccessible, but now regularly climbed by tourists.

Wastwater Lake, situated to the south, at a height of 204 feet above the sea level, is 3 ½ miles long, half a mile broad, and, according to a bathymetrical survey, has a depression about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile wide, the depth varying from 250 to 258 feet. The water is remarkably clear, and abounds with trout, and boats are kept here for the use of anglers and tourists. The general aspect of this lake, owing to the barren character of its shores, the absence of woodland, and the vast masses of naked mountains by which it is surrounded, is singularly gloomy and oppressive; on the south-east side the Screes, a precipitous rocky ridge, bestrewn with masses of disintegrated rock, forms a conspicuous and striking feature; to the north rises the mountain called Great Gable, attaining a height of 2,949 feet, and on the north-east, Scawfell Pike (3,208 feet); on Eskdale fell, eastward, at a height of 832 feet, is Burnmoor tarn.

Thirlmere, 2 ¾ miles long, 1 mile broad, and 108 feet deep, lies south-east of Derwentwater, and is best seen from its western side; on the east is Helvellyn (3,118 feet), and on the west Raven Crag; at the south end is a wooded ravine, with many waterfalls: the lake is 533 feet above the sea level, and from it the further water supply for Manchester is obtained.

The tarns or small mountain pools include-Overwater, Burnmoor Tarn, Wadling Tarn, Talkin Tarn, Martin Tarn, Styhead Tarn, and Sparkling Tarn.

There are numerous rivers and smaller streams; the Duddon separates the county from Lancashire, and forms the Duddon mouth at the extreme southern point; in the south also are the Esk, Irt, and Mite, which all flow into the St. George’s channel at Ravenglass, there forming a sandy harbour. The Esk and Mite rise in Eskdale moor, and the Irt flows from Wastwater lake, and receives the Bleng in its course. The Ehen is also in the south and flows from Ennerdale water, and is joined by the Keekle bn entering the sea; the Calder rises in the hills near Ennerdale water, and enters the sea at the same point as the Ehen. The Liza is a small river flowing into Ennerdale water. The Derwent has its source in the mountains on the Westmorland border, and flows northerly to Derwentwater, thence to Bassenthwaite lake, after which its course is westerly through Cockermouth to the sea at Workington; it receives the waters of the Cocker, the Maron, and the Greta, and is 33 miles in length. The Ellen flows westerly from the moors to the seat at Maryport. The Caldew flows from the south, and proceeds northerly to Carlisle, above which it joins the Eden; it receives the Ive before reaching Carlisle. The Eden rises in Westmorland, and crosses the county from south-east to north-west, and after passing Carlisle it flows into the Solway Frith; it is about 35 miles long. The river Petteril rises in the south, and flows northerly through the county to Carlisle, near which it joins the Eden. The Irthing forms a portion of the Northumberland border, and flows south-westerly to the Eden. The line is in the north of the county, and is formed by two streams, named the Black Line and the White Line, which, after uniting, flow into the Esk. The Esk, the second river of that name in this county, rises in Scotland, and, at the point where it enters Cumberland, receives the Liddel, and, passing Longtown, enters the Solway Frith; the Sark flow s into the mouth of the Esk. The Wampool and the Waver form a bay in the north-west. The source of the South Tyne is in the Alston moors, in the eastern portion of the county. The Eamont flows from Ulleswater, and forms, for about 10 miles, the southern boundary of the county, until it joins the Eden. The Tees rises near Cross Fell, and forms, for a short distance, the southern boundary of the county in its course to Durham.

On these hill rivers are many falls and cascades, of which Lodore is 200 feet high, Scale Force 180 feet, Barrow Cascade 126 feet, and there are others about 100 feet in height: the general scenery of the hills is very picturesque.

The climate, on account of these hills, is among the wettest in England; and at Keswick the yearly fall sometimes reaches 70 inches: snow, too, lodges on the mountain tops every winter. The valleys and shores are however, milder.

The geological features of the county vary: the mountains in the east belong to the carboniferous system, embracing millstone grit, and carboniferous or mountain limestone; the level tract of land along the valleys of the Eden and Petteril and the shore contains the new red sandstone, composed of various marls and sandstones; and the remainder is occupied by the carboniferous system, and also by the silurian rocks, embracing clay, slate, and various slaty limestones, interspersed with granite. The various formations include many valuable minerals. Among them are barytes, fireclay, iron (haematite and other ores), coal, lead ore, silver, zinc ore, slate, gypsum, umber and gannister. Quartz, garnets, agates, opal and chalcedony are found. Lime is largely worked for the iron works and agricultural purposes. Gypsum is worked at Hesket. Ctobalt, antimony, and manganese are sometimes obtained in small quantities.

Of the minerals, iron ore is of the most importance, and is procured in the east, west and south of the county; the greater portion, however, from the mines in the west; the county ranks third in production of the counties of England, Yorkshire taking first place, and Staffordshire second; according to the “mineral statistics for 1895,” 1,215,410 tons of ore were raised, valued at £665,935; the character of the re is that known as red haematite. The mines are principally in the neighbourhood of Cleator, Egremont, Frizington, and Whitehaven. The total manufacture of pig-iron in 1895 was 648,740 tons, in 19 blast furnaces, the total number of furnaces in the county being 49; and the modern town of Millom has entirely risen through this industry.

Coal is raised in the west, bordering on the coast, and in 1895 1,883,592 tons were brought to bank, valued at £521,206, of which 527,171 tons were exported coastwise. Fireclay was raised to the extent of 25,853 tons. Gypsum was obtained to the amount of 51,694 tons.

Of lead ore, 1,740 tons, producing 1,293 tons of lead, were procured in 1895; the lead mines are very rich in silver, and yielded 12,163 ounces in that year. The zinc mines produced 5,937 tons, valued at £10,516; the amount of zinc obtained by smelting was 2,024 tons; stone is employed for most buildings, brick being little used. In 1895 68,293 tons of granite were quarried, and 33,350 tons of stands tone and gannister; 372,203 tons of limestone, and 2,744 tons of slates. Of barytes only 354 tons were obtained, and 18 tons of umber.

The cotton manufacture is pursued at Carlisle and neighbourhood; iron ship building is caried on at the ports; paper is also made to some extent, and black-lead pencils are made at Keswick.

Although the climate and the small quantity of arable land limit the extent of husbandry, the country has of late years been much improved, and much land has been enclosed. The grass lands feed many cattle and shepp, and much dairy produce is obtained.

The rivers and lakes contain salmon, trout, char, pike, perch, carp, eels, and brandling, and on the shores are good fisheries. There is game on the hills and moors, including grouse; the shooting on the moors is let for large sums.

Some of the parishes are very large; among them are: —

The largest townships are:—

Some of the above townships are very thinly peopled; as Ennerdale, with 519 persons; and Nether Wasdale, 136.

The municipal boroughs are Carlisle, a cathedral city, with a population in 1861 of 29,417; 1871, 31,074; 1881, 35,884; and in 1891, 39,176; and Workington, with a population of 23,490 in 1891. Other towns are Alston, 3,384; Brampton, 2,790; Cockermouth, 5,464; Egremont, 6,105; Harrington, 3,535; Keswick, 3,760; Maryport, 8,784; Penrith, 8,981; Whitehaven, 18,038; Millom, 10,512; and Wigton, 3,965.

Maryport, Whitehaven and Workington are seaports, exporting coal to other coast ports, Maryport having the largest trade; these towns are also engaged in the iron manufacture. Port Carlisle and Silloth Bay are the outports of Carlisle. Ravenglass is a small fishing port.

The Registration districts are as follows: —

The county is divided into wards, as under: —

The shire town of Cumberland is Carlisle, where the assizes are held; the county is in the Northern Circuit. The Midsummer and Christmas Quarter Sessions are held at Carlisle, and the Easter and Michaelmas Sessions at Cockermouth.

County Courts are held at Alston, Brampton, Carlisle, Cockermouth, Keswick, Penrith, Whitehaven, Wigton and Workington. Whitehaven Court has jurisdiction in Admiralty cases.

Ecclesiastically, Cumberland is in the province of York, and chiefly in the diocese of Carlisle, except the parish of Alston, which is in that of Newcastle, it is in the archdeaconries of Carlisle and Westmorland The total number of parishes being 179. Carlisle archdeaconry is sub-divided into the rural deaneries of Appleby and Kirby, Brampton, Carlisle-North, Carlisle-South, Lowther, Maryport, Penrith-East, Penrith-West and Wigton. Westmorland archdeaconry is sub-divided into the rural deaneries of Cockermouth, Keswick and Whitehaven.

Railways.-The county is traversed from south to north by the London and North Western and Midland lines, and from east to west by the North Eastern, besides having several local lines. The London and North Western enters the county a little south of Penrith, from which station it has a joint line with the Cockermouth, Keswick and Penrith railway to the coast ports of Whitehaven, Workington and Maryport; the main line proceeds to Carlisle, where it joins the Caledonian Tailway, entering Scotland at Gretna Junction; at Carlisle the London and North Westem also joins the Maryport and Carlisle railway which runs via Wigton and Aspatria (with a loop to Mealsgate) to Maryport and Cockermouth, and from Carlisle also starts the North British branch line to Silloth and Port Carlisle, which connects with the Maryport and Carlisle line by the Caledonian line from Abbey Junction to Brayton, which line goes northward, via Whitrigg and Bowness, across the Solway Firth to Annan and Kirthebridge. The Midland railway enters the county a few miles north of Temple Sowerby, passes by Lazonby to Carlisle, where it connects with the North British line via Longtown and Riddings Junction for Langholm, St. Boswells &c. The Newcastle and Carlisle section of the North Eastern railway enters the county at Gilsland, and proceeds via Bampton (where it is joined by a branch from Alston via Lambley) to Carlisle. The Ravenglass and Eskdale line runs to Boot, and the Furness railway has a line from Foxfield Junction along the coast and through St. Bees to Whitehaven.

Her Majesty's Prison, Carlisle, occupies the site of the ancient monastery of the Black Friars, near the ancient English gate; it was completed in 1827, at a cost of £42,534, and is in the Gothic style; the front, 240 feet in length, consists of a centre and two wings, with an embattled parapet, and relieved by a range of narrow Gothic windows made to correspond with the court house which it adjoins: Alfred Henry Hollingdale, chief warder in charge; Henry Ambrose Ledeard M.D. surgeon; Rev. H. A. Macpherson M.A. chaplain; Rev. Canon Waterton, Catholic chaplain; Miss Sarah lane Woodward, matron.

The Cumberland Infirmary, Carlisle, standing on an eminence west of the city, originated in a bequest of £1,000, left for the purpose by Thomas Parker esq. of Warwick hall. The original building, now forming the central portion of the general structure, was erected at a cost of nearly £6,000; it is classical in style, relieved in front with four columns of the Grecian-Doric order, and is now known as the old Infirmary. In 1874, east and west wings were added, and the old part renovated at a cost of £12,000. The east wing, by which access to the Infirmary is now obtained, is chiefly used as an out-patients’ department. The west wing, which commands a fine view to the north of the Eden valley beyond Etterby, and to the south, a stretch of country bounded in a direct line by Barrock Fell, is built at right angles to the old Infirmary, and comprises four wards, containing 18 beds, allowing 1,400 cubic feet of space to each patient; the total number of beds in the establishment is now 100. In the year 1895, 784 patients were admitted, of whom 680 were discharged cured or relieved, 67 were left sick or incurable, and 45 died; the total number of out-patients were 1,622; and the total number of attendances (estimated), 8,185; Herbert W. Page M.A., M.C. Cantab and J. A. Macdonald M.D. consulting surgeons; Stuart Lockie M.D. and Henry Barnes M.D., F.R.S.Edin. physicians; Roderick Maclaren M.D. and Henry Ambrose Lediard M.D. surgeons; William Brown F.R.S.E. assistant surgeon; J. F. Kekwich L.D.S.R.C.S.I. surgeon-dentist; B. C. Kelly M.B., C.M. house surgeon; John D. Duncan M.B., C.M. assistant house surgeon; Rev. W. E. Strickland M.A. chaplain; Miss Linda Ditcham, matron; John George Howitt, sec.

The Whitehaven and West Cumberland Infirmary is ill Howgill street, Whitehaven; a dispensary has existed in the town since 1783 and a house of recovery since 1819, but the infirmary was only established in 1830, and enlarged in 1837; there are 50 beds; during 1895 there were 228 in-patients and 1,878 out-patients; Tyson Kitchin, sec.; T. F. I’Anson M.D. consulting surgeon; E. Ablett M.D., J. G. Muriel M.R.C.S.Eng., J. F. Muir M.D., J. B. Fisher M.B., C.M., T. Jackson and W. I’Anson M.B., C.M. visiting surgeons; Robinson Simpson Dickson M.B., C.M. house surgeon; Mrs. Catherine Hellon, matron.

The Cumberland and Westmorland Lunatic Asylum, Carleton, near Carlisle, opened 2nd January, 1862, is a building of red sandstone, and besides the asylum itself, there is an isolation hospital, erected in 1892, and a chapel, and the whole, with surrounding land, covers an area of 137 acres, there are now (1896) 290 male and 294 female inmates, and private patients are also received; the chapel is of red sandstone in the Perpendicular style, and will seat 400 persons; the organ was erected in 1890; John Archibald Campbell M.D., F.R.S.Edin. resident medical superintendent; Rev. John Howard, chaplain; Miss Robinson, matron; H. Ferguson, clerk and steward.

The Home for Incurables for the border counties, occupying a pleasant site on the Wigton road, Carlisle, was opened in 1885, and is intended for the reception of persons who are hopelessly disqualified from fulfilling the ordinary active duties of life, but is not intended for persons of unsound mind, nor for those who are labouring under senile debility, nor for those who would otherwise be provided for by the Guardians of the poor, A chapel was erected in 1893, The Home is available for 26 inmates: Henry Barnes M.D., M.R.C.S.Eng., F.R.S.Edin. hon. consulting physician; Roderick Maclaren M.D. hon. consulting surgeon; Robert Dundas Helm M.D., C.M.Edin, medical officer; J. F. Kekwich P.D.S.R.C.S. Irel. bon. dental surgeon; Rev. T. H. Baines, chaplain; Miss Katherine Murphy, matron; F. W. Chance, hon. sec.

Parliamentary Representation of Cumberland

Cumberland formerly returned four members in two divisions, but under the provisions of the “Redistribution of Seats Acts, 1885,” it now returns four members in four divisions.

No. 1.-The Northern or Eskdale division, comprises the sessional divisions of Eskdale Ward, Cumberland Ward, Longtown & Allerdale Ward below Derwent, except so much as is comprised in Division No. 2, & the municipal borough of Carlisle.

No. 2.-The Mid or Penrith division, comprises the sessional divisions of Keswick & Leith Ward, & the townships of Allhallows, Blencogo, Blennerhasset & Kirkland, Caldbeck High & Low, Dundraw & Kelsick, High Bolton, High Irby, High & Low Thursby, Low Bolton, Low Irby, Sebergbam High & Low, Torpenhow & Whitrigg, Uldale, Waverton High & Low, Westwarl, Wigton & Woodside in the Allerdale Ward below Derwent sessional division.

No. 3.-The Cockermouth division comprises the sessional divisions of Derwent & Workington.

No. 4.-The Western or Egremont division comprises the sessional divisions of Bootle & Allerdale Ward above Derwent,

Under the provisions of the above-named Act the city of Carlisle lost one member,

Military

Cumberland is under the North Western District Command; headquarters, Chester; Major-General L. V. Swaine C.B., C.M.G. in command Carlisle is the depot of Regimental District No. 34 (The Border Regiment), which is comprised of 4 Battalions, the 1st Battalion (34th foot), the 2nd Battalion (55th foot), 3rd Battalion (The Royal Cumberland Militia); headquarters, Carlisle; & the 4th Battalion (Royal Westmoreland Militia), headquarters, Carlisle; Ofiicer Commanding Regimental District, Col. J. F. Hilton.

Yeomanry Cavalry

14th Yeomanry Brigade.

Head Quarters, Worsley, Lancs.

Westmorland & Cumberland Yeomanry Cavalry; H P. Senbouse (Hon. Col.), lieut.col. commanding.

Volunteers

Artillery.

1st Cumberland Artillery Volunteers, Southern Division Royal Artillery.

The Northern Counties Volunteer Infantry Brigade

Headquarters & Place of Assembly, Lancaster. Commanding Brigade, Col. C. Eccles (Hon. Maj.-Gen.), Aide-de-Camp, Capt. J. W. Wearing, 1st V. B. Royal Lanc. Regiment.

Comprising:—1st Vol. Batt. R. Lane. Regt. Headquarters, Ulverston; 1st Vol. Batt. E. Lane. Regt. Headquarters, Blackburn; 2nd Vol. Batt. E. Lane. Regt. Headquarters, Burnley; 1st Vol. Batt. Bord. Regt. Headquarters, Carlisle; 2nd Vol. Batt. Border Regt. Headquarters, Carlisle; 1st Vol. Batt. North Lane. Regt. Headquarters, Preston; 2nd Vol. Batt. North Lane. Regiment, Headquarters, Bolton.

1st Cumberland Volunteer Battalion, the Border Regiment, Hon. Col. J. J. Spedding, lieut.-col. commandant: J. S. Ainsworth, lieut.-col.

1st Volunteer Battalion 1st King’s Own Royal Lancaster Regiment (Millom detchment), Capt. Clement Sawrey Cookson, Drill ball, Holborn hill, Millom.

Fairs & Markets

Alston-Fairs on the third Saturday in March for cattle; Saturday before April 23 for horses, cattle and sheep; the last Thursday in May for horses, cattle, sheep and pigs; the Saturday on or before September 27, for horses and cattle; Saturday on or before October 18 for sheep, and the first Thursday in November for horses, cattle and sheep.

Brampton-Fairs for sheep and cattle, on April 20, the second Wednesday after Whitsuntide, the second Wednesday in September, and the third Friday in October. Hirings and pleasure fairs are held on Whit Wednesday and on the first Wednesday after November 11.

Carlisle-A. Hiring fair is held on Saturday before WhitSunday, on Saturday nearest November 11, and on Saturday before Candlemas and Lammas; fairs are also held on April 22 for cattle, and on August 26 for horses, cattle and sheep; and on September 19 for cattle, sheep and lambs; and similar fairs on the last three Saturdays of October and on Saturday nearest November 11. When April 22, August 26, or September 19, fall on a Sunday, the marts hold the fair on the Saturday preceding. Market days, Wednesday and Saturday; the latter, which is the principal market, is remarkably well attended.

Cockermouth-Fairs are held on Whit-Monday and Martinmas Monday for hiring of servants, and every fortnight, commencing in May, for cattle. Market day, Monday. Cattle fairs, Wednesday after April 12, first Wednesday in May (the spring fair), and every alternate Wednesday in May; also a monthly sale of horses on the first Friday in the month, except in February and October, when it is held on February 17, and the second Tuesday in October. An annual sale of bulls and store stock of every description is held on the last Friday in March; the special sale of tup lambs is held on the last Friday in August; lamb sales second Monday in September; annual ram sale and store stock of every description on the last Friday in September; special sale of store stock of every description on the second Wednesday in October; the annual autumn bull sale on the last Friday in October, and the prize show and sale of fat cattle at Christmas.

Egremont-Fairs for the sale of cattle and horses on February 17, the third Friday in May and June 5. Hirings for servants take place on Saturday at Whitsuntide and Martinmas. Crab fair, held September 18, is for horses, sheep and cattle.

Eskdale (Boot)-A pleasure fair, and a cattle and sheep fair are held here on the second Monday in September, and a ram show is held at the Woolpack inn on the last Friday in September.

Gosforth-Fairs at Boonwood for the sale of cattle on April 25 and October 18. Hiring fairs, for servants, are held at Gosforth at Whitsuntide and Martinmas.

Keswick-Fairs first Saturday in October, and on the first Thursday after May 1st, and the two subsequent alternate Thursdays for cattle; a fair for rams and cheese on the Saturday after October 29, and the hirings for servants at Whitsuntide and Martinmas.

Kirkoswald-A fair is held on the 5th August (St. Oswald’s Day.)

Maryport-Market day, Friday; fairs on the Friday before WhitSunday and the Friday before November 2.

Millom-Market day, Saturday.

Penrith-Market day, Tuesday.

Ravenglass-Fairs for cattle May 6, June 8 and August 5.

Rosley-Horse and cattle fairs on Whit Monday and two alternate Mondays after these fairs.

Nether Wasdale-Sheep and pleasure fair on the first Monday in September.

Whitehaven-Markets are held on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday; Thursday is the principal market day.

Wigton-Market every Tuesday in the open street for corn and all kinds of farm produce, and on St. Thomas’s Day is also a very large one for meat, apples and honey. Fairs are held on February 20, for horses and cattle, which was formerly one of the largest in this part of the country; and on April 5 for cattle and merchandise; and Whit-Tuesday and Martinmas Tuesday for hiring agricultural servants.

Workington-Market days Wednesday and Saturday, fairs are held on Whit-Wednesday and the Wednesday after November 11.

The following table shows the acreage under each kind of crop, and the number of horses, cattle, sheep and pigs in the County of Cumberland, as taken from the Agricultural Returns, 1895:—

Cumberland County Council

Local Government Act, 1888, 51 & 52 Vic. c. 41.

Under the above Act the county of Cumberland, after the 1st April, 1889, for the purposes of the Act became an administrative county (sec. 46), governed by a County Council, consisting of Chairman, aldermen and councillors, elected in manner prescribed by the Act (sec.2).

The Chairman by virtue of his office is a justice of the peace for the county, without qualification (sec. 46).

The police for the county are under the control of a Standing Joint Committee of the Quarter Sessions and the County Council appointed as therein mentioned (sec. 9).

The coroners for the county are elected by the County Council, and the Clerk of the Peace appointed by such joint committee, and may be removed by them (sec. 83—2).

The Clerk of the Peace for the County is also the Clerk of the County Council (sec. 83—1).

The administrative business of the county (which would, if this Act had not been passed, have been transacted by the justices) is transacted by the County Council.