DEVON is a south-western shire on the English and Bristol Channels, adjoining to the peninsula of Cornwall, bounded on the north and north-west by the Bristol Channel, on the north-east by Somerset, on the east by Dorset, and on the south by the English Channel: the river Tamar, separating it from Cornwall, forms the greater part of the western boundary.

The boundaries of Devon were altered by the Act 7 & 8 Vic. cap, 61, 1844, by the addition of 8,568 acres and by the severing of 4,896 acres. The townships annexed were Stockland and Dallwood from Dorset, and Bridgerule from Cornwall; the townships severed, Thorncombe and Beerhall added to Dorset, and that part of Maker which formed part of Vaultershome added to Cornwall.

In pursuance of section 54 of the “Local Government Act, 1888,” 51 & 52 Vic. cap. 41, the boundaries were again altered March 23rd, 1896, by the addition of 9,850 acres from Dorset, being the whole of the parishes of Chardstock and Hawkchurch, and the transfer of Churchstanton, 5,436 acres, to Somerset.

The area of Devon now is 1,667,097 acres, being one of the largest shires in England, W. R. Yorkshire and Lincolnshire alone being larger. Though third in size, eleven counties have more population, viz.:-Cheshire, Durham, Gloucestershire, Hampshire, Kent, Lancaster, Middlesex, Stafford, Surrey, Warwick, and W. R. Yorks.

The population in 1801 was 340,308; 1811, 382,778; 1821, 438,417; 1831, 493,908; 1841, 532,959; 1851, 567,098; 1861, 584,373; 1871, 601,374; and in 1881, 603,595; and in 1891, 631,808; of which 297,898 are males and 333,910 females. The number of houses were, inhabited, 113,204; uninhabited, 9,217; building, 927. The population in 1901 was 660,444, and the number of inhabited houses is 123,598.

The earliest inhabitants of Devon are not known, but are supposed to be of Lappish or Finnish origin. At an early period it was occupied by the Iberians, as the names of the rivers-the Tamar, Taw, and Tavy-show. Of the early periods there are many relics, as circles of stone, including Grimspound on Dartmoor, and the Scorhill circle. There are many cromlechs and other monuments of rude stone, and early weapons have been found. The Welsh and the Belgians were gradually overcoming the Iberians, and driving them west, when, in the beginning of the Christian era, the Romans made themselves masters of the islands. The tribe they found here was named the Damnonii.

The Romans thickly settled the whole of Devon, as the names of places will show. Their chief towns were Isca Damnoniorum (now Exeter) and Muridunum.

The chief remains of the roads, known by their English names, are:-Orway, Solway, Oxenway, Farwav, Shurway, Broadway, Whiteway, Northway, Elverway, Oldaway, Roadway, Reddaway, Greenway, Ridgway, Helway, Holloway, Herapate or Harepath, Sticklepath, Gappath, Coleridgo, Bromridge, Doddridge, Cuttridge, Oldridge, Horridge, Chesridge, Partridge, Coldridge, Holdridge, Storridge, Sandridge, Hare-street, Dark-street, and Bow-street. The name of street is not so commonly applied to Roman road in Devon as it is in the east of England.

The Roman settlements are so numerous that they would form a long list, about 500 being recognisable. On the downfall of the Romans, the Welsh and mixed Romans were left to themselves, and several west Welsh kingdoms were formed in Devon and Cornwall, among which war and strife, religious and civil, were constant. Of the period of the Welsh sway there are no ethnological remains.

On the English invading Britain, Devon early drew their attention; and in 614 the West Saxons made their first attack. Their progress was slow, and it was not till 926 that the King of the Cornwelsh was at length driven beyond the Tamar. From 876 to 1003, Devon was, , however, wasted by the Danes. At Kenwith Castle, near Northam, are the remains of the old building, in the attack on which the Danes, under Hubba, were defeated by the-Saxons, under Alfred, and their standard captured; an old tradition assigns a spot, still known as “Bloody Corner,” as the scene of a duel between two of the chieftains; and at Appledore is the landing-place where the invaders first set foot on this land. Nevertheless, the Welsh in Devon were exterminated, and the old land settled by English.

The topographical nomenclature of the West Saxon in Devon has some peculiarities. The clan names are not so common as in the east: but those of the Billing, Barking, Wadding, Cotting, Cocking, Faring, Bicking and Canning are recognizable. Many of the names of settlements are those of individuals. The endings ton and ham are common; so are worthy, stoke and thorne; but stow, thorpe, hope, stead and horn are rare. Wick is common, and is often made week. Combe, don, knowe and down are common. Tor is a word peculiar to Devon. Ley, leigh and land are common. Hay, and the plurals hays and hayne, are very common. Acre and croft are rare. The ending cot is very frequent. Barton is common. Den is rare. Wood is common. Hurst, holt, shaw, hanger and dingle are rare. Rough, cleave and lynch are used for commons. Grave is common; so are lake, pool, pitt and hole. Bourn and brook are about equally frequent. Many of the wells have names. Beer or bear is peculiar to Devon and Dorset. Huish is found there; so are aller, peek, yard, yate, yeo, venn, hole, bray, stout, slade, shute, halse, and slew. Many of the clan names are made, in the Devon dialect, to end in a instead of ing; and many words end in a or er. The termination son is common. The letters z and y are freely used in old Devon topographical names.

The island of LUNDY, in the Bristol Channel, with a population of 67, belongs to Devon; it is 2 ½ miles long and 1 mile broad, with an area of 920 acres.

In Plymouth Sound is St. Nicholas (called also Drake’s) Island, which is covered with fortifications.

Burgh Island is in Bigbury Bay at the mouth of the Avon: had anciently a chapel of St. Michael on the summit; there is now a small inn on the north side; also some fish cellars.

A great many of the population of Devon are descended from the original English settlers, but slightly mixed with Cornish. The latter are chiefly settled in the Plymouth and Tavistock districts, and are partly engaged in mining.

The scenery in the greater part of the county is very beautiful and diversified; the climate is moist, with a very mild temperature in the south, but bleak on the moors. The south coast is so mild that the myrtle grows freely, and oranges, lemons and citrons flourish in the open air, and it is therefore much frequented by invalids during the winter.

Devonshire is a hilly county, and includes in the south a large waste district, called the Forest of Dartmoor, which is 28 miles from north to south and 26 miles from east to west; the area being from 80,000 to 100,000 acres, and it rises to the height of 2,000 feet above the sea, having portions of moist peat and bog, and generally of a desolate appearance; large pools of water are the sources of several rivers. Part of Exmoor, another great waste in the north, is in Somerset. Dumdown hill, in the east, two miles from Honiton, is, with the exception of Dartmoor, the highest ground in the county. The shores are very rocky and indented with several bays: Bideford and Morte bays in the north, and Bigbury bay, Start bay, and Tor bay in the south. At Northam, on the shore of Bideford bay, is the remarkable and interesting common of 700 acres called the Burrows, fenced on two sides for a space of 3 miles by a vast barrier of boulders, rounded and smoothed by the waves. The inhabitants of Northam from time immemorial have a right of pasturage on this large common. Zoophytes of all kinds are to be found in abundance among the rocks, and there is a singular and very beautiful pebble ridge that bounds a wide beach of sand oh the one side and the extensive common on the other; also on Bideford bay and north of Northam Burrows is a large tract of land covered with sand called Braunton Burrow, abounding with rabbits, and having two lighthouses.

The rivers are:-The Exe, flowing from Somersetshire, southward to the English Channel, and made navigable from Exmouth to Topsham for shipping, and communicating with Exeter by means of the Ship Canal. The Clyst, the Lowman, the Creedy, the Yeo, the Culm and the Barle are feeders of the Exe. The Torridge, which is about 53 miles long, rises in Welcombe parish, near the sea coast, and flows south-easterly and thence northward through Torrington to Bideford bay; not far from its source it receives the Okement, and is navigable for ships only to Bideford. The Taw also rises in Dartmoor and flows nearly parallel to the Torridge to the sea beyond Barnstaple, to which place it is navigable; in its course it receives the Little Dart and the Mole: for boats, the Taw and Torridge are navigable four or five miles from their mouths. The Plym also rises from Dartmoor and flows to the east of Plymouth, and also the Tavy, which joins the Tamar.

The Teign rises north of Dartmoor, and flows easterly for some distance, thence south to Newton Abbot, and again easterly to the sea at Teignmouth, from which place it is navigable to Newton Abbot 4 miles; the Dart flows south-easterly from Dartmouth through Totnes, from which it is navigable to the sea at Dartmouth; the Avon, in the south of the county, is navigable for 3 miles from Aveton-Giffard to Bantham; the Erme, also in the south, for 2 miles to Mothecombe; the Yealm, west of the Erme, is navigable for 3 miles; the Plym for 3 miles along Catwater. The Otter, in the east, and the Lynn are not navigable. The Axe is in the extreme east of the county, and flows from Dorsetshire through Axminster to Axmouth and the sea.

The Tamar, on the Cornish border of the county, is the widest river, and is navigable to Morwellham; it receives several streams from Devon, as the Deer, Lyd, Carey, Tavy, Lew Water, Walkham and Thistlebrook. The Royal Albert bridge (one of Brunel's greatest undertakings) crosses the Tamar at Saltash, and connects Devon and Cornwall, carrying the Cornwall railway; its length is just half a mile, or 300 feet more than the Britannia bridge, and its greatest height from the foundation 260 feet.

The county is watered by an immense number of streams, tributaries of these rivers, which work corn and other mills; such is the abundance of water power that windmills for corn are all but unknown in the county.

Devonshire is united with the canal system by the Great Western canal, 11 miles long, from Ashbrittle in Somerset, which terminates at Tiverton, and is now the property of the Bristol and Exeter Railway Co. The Tavistock canal, the Stover or Teigngrace canal, and the Torridge canal extend river navigation. The Bude and Holsworthy canal, 15 ½ miles long, connects Holsworthy with Bude Haven, and is joined by the Bude and Launceston canal.

The harbours are very fine and numerous. They include Plymouth, Torbay, and Dartmouth. The chief seaports and fishing towns are: Plymouth, Exeter, Barnstaple, Topsham, Brixham, Dartmouth, Exmouth, Torquay, Teignmouth, Sidmouth, Bideford, and Ilfracombe.

Tidal Streams in the Bristol and English Channels and on the South-west Coast.-A careful investigation of the tides in the English Channel has shown the possibility of referring the movements of the several streams to a common standard, which, for the entrance of the channel, will be the time of high water at Dover: for, off the mouth, the stream, though materially influenced by the indraft and outset of the channel, will be found running-to the northward and eastward, while the water is falling at Dover, and to the southward and westward while it is rising at that port. Northward of lat. 49°, the stream is more regular than south of that parallel, and in the direction of the Bristol Channel it will be found setting to the northward while the water is falling at Dover, turning sharply round Hartland Point into the Bristol Channel, and while the water is rising at Dover, setting as sharply out of that channel and along the land towards Scilly. At Trevose Head, on the Cornish coast, the tide has been found, by many observations, to make twelve minutes after Dover, and as a vessel advances up the Bristol Channel the stream turns progressively later. The tides about Plymouth Sound, both flood and ebb, are tolerably regular, generally running each way about six hours and ten minutes at a mean. In Hamoaze the flood stream continues to run up, on spring tides, about 15 minutes after high water at Devonport Dockyard, which occurs somewhat later than in Catwater, but the tide continues to flow in both harbours for an additional half-hour when the wind is strong from the south and west, and at the breakwater in Plymouth Sound, the stream drains in for a short time after the water has ceased to rise. Abreast of Plymouth. Sound, and about six miles seaward, the irregularity of the streams is considerable, and farther out in the offing they do not turn with the tide. Nearly two hours before high water at the Dockyard the stream makes eastward gradually, veering in about the same time to the south and west; during the first three hours’ flood on shore the direction changes from west to north, and at the last 4 ½ hours flood again runs, as at first, east by south; four miles south-west of the Eddystone the variations of the stream exhibit similar changes. From Bolt Tail to Start; Point, at a distance of four miles off shore, the eastern stream at spring tide makes at 2 ½ hours before high water, and the western stream 3 hours before low water by the short, setting along the land, with a maximum velocity of 2 ¾ knots; at neaps the turn of the stream is irregular, and its rate less. Off Exmouth bar, at a distance of three-quarters of a mile south of Straight Point, the stream turns eastward at 3h. 40m., westward at 11h., turning gradually to the north after about 4 hours, and the greatest velocity of both streams is about 1 knot. Three miles south of Beer Head, the stream turns westward at 10h. 30m., runs in that direction for 4 hours, then gradually veers to the north for 2 hours, and turning eastward about 5 o’clock, sets for 2 ½ hours towards the north, and then, for the next 3 hours, turns by degrees to the south; the general direction, therefore, of the tide in this position is round the compass, with little or no velocity.

Time of High Water on Full and Change Days at places on the Coast of Devon, with the rise of the Tide at Springs and Neaps.

The Great Western railway runs through the county from Bristol to Exeter; and beyond Exeter, along the coast, to Plymouth and into Cornwall. There are in connection with the Great Western three branches from Newton Abbot, one south, to Torquay and to Kings wear, thence by steamer to Dartmouth; another north, to Moreton Hampstead, and the third to Ashton through Chudleigh; from Ashton lines are now being constructed to Exeter and Chagford; from Churston, on the Dartmouth line, is a branch to Brixham; from Totnes, on the Plymouth extension, is a branch to Ashburton; from Plymouth a line to Tavistock and Launceston, in Cornwall, and from Yelverton on this line is a line to Princetown; on the Bristol and Exeter railway is a branch to Tiverton, and from Tiverton junction a line through Uffculme to Hemyock is called the Culm Vale railway; from Taunton, Somerset, the Devon and Somerset railway passes through the north of the county, by South Molton, to Barnstaple, The Tiverton and North Devon railway joins this line at Dulverton and proceeds via Bampton to Tiverton, where it joins the Exe Valley railway, from Tiverton to Exeter. A branch line was opened in 1893 from Brent station on the Exeter and Plymouth extension to Kingsbridge. The London and South Western, passing through Honiton, reaches Exeter and Plymouth, from London, via Devonport, with short lines to Plymstock and Yealmpton and Turnchapel. On the Exeter line is a branch to Seaton, another to Ottery St. Mary and Sidmouth, and a third to Exmouth. From Tipton St.John’s station, on the Sidmouth branch, a short line was opened, in 1897, to Budleigh Salterton, from which a line is now (1901) in course of construction to Exmouth. The North Devon line of the London and South Western extends from Exeter to Crediton, Barnstaple, Ilfracombe, Bideford and Torrington, and from Yeoford junction on this line starts the Devon and Cornwall line to Plymouth via North Tawton and Okehampton (from which place there is a branch to Holsworthy), and to Bude in Cornwall, thence to Lydford junction and Tavistock. The Plymouth, Devonport and South Western junction railway, opened in 1889, from Lydford junction, gives the London and South Western independent access to Plymouth. A line of railway was opened in 1897 from Barnstaple to Lynton. From Axminster, on the Exeter line, a short branch is now (1901) being constructed to Lyme Regis, in Dorset.

Devon is a rich tillage and grazing land, although there is much unreclaimed moor: husbandry is the great source of wealth here, the county yielding wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, beans, peas, hay, apples and other fruit, cider, cheese, butter, wool, hides and timber. There are fine breeds of horses, oxen, sheep and pigs: the Devon cattle are distinguished by being of a plain red colour and produce a continuous supply of first class pedigree bulls, and are almost equally as notable for their beef producing qualities as for their valuable properties in connection with dairy produce. The fisheries are of great importance, Brixham being one of the largest fishing stations. The county derives advantages from its numerous bathing places: its large extent of coast line causes a number of persons to visit the county for the benefit of sea air and bathing, the northern shore and the southern differing in temperature: Ilfracombe and some few other places are on the north coast, and the fine town of Torquay, with numerous smaller watering places, on the south.

For mining purposes, West Devon is in the Duchy of Cornwall, and under the jurisdiction of the Stannary Court; the jurisdiction of the court extends to all companies formed to work mines of metallic minerals within the counties of Devon and Cornwall, and over all transactions connected therewith; the sittings of the court are held at Truro usually in the months of February, May, August and November. The Devon Great Consols mine, which has produced large quantities of copper, is now engaged in preparing arsenic. The mineral productions are copper ore, tin ore (210 tons), iron ore, barytes, ochre, sandstone, potters’ clay, gravel, sand and slate. In 1899 990 tons of copper ore were raised, valued at £2,292; arsenic (obtained by calcination at the mines), 2,468 tone, value £40,941; arsenical pyrites, 3,840 tons, value £4,590; barytes, 1,000 tons; chert and flint, 2,009 tons; iron ore was produced to the extent of 780 tons, value £1,655; it is principally shipped at Brixham. Potters’ clay is a considerable article of commerce, principally procured in the Newton Abbot district. The amount raised in 1899 was 74,105 tons, valued at £30,849. China clay was produced to a large amount, the total produced in 1899 being 52,198 tons, valued at £30,187; other days, 161,642 tons, value £18,545. Gravel and sand was produced to the extent of 30,218 tons in 1899; igneous rocks, 48,651 tons; limestone, 527,026 tons. Sandstone was raised to the extent of 71,487 tons; slate and slabs, 13,901 tons.

The chief manufactures are lace, gloves, woollen stuffs and tanning. Honiton has a high reputation for lace, but lace bearing the name of the town is made throughout the south-east district of the county. Buckfastleigh has been long celebrated for woollen goods, such as navy serge and blankets. Plymouth produces chemical manure, soap, starch, blue and black lead, and also has a trade in costumes and outfitting. Paper is also made to some extent; pottery is produced; also articles in terra cotta. The large naval establishments of Devonport and Keyham employ numbers of persons, and, besides what is done in the Government dockyards, there is much ship and boat building.

Devon is in the Western circuit and has one court of quarter sessions, the assizes being held at Exeter; there are 22 petty sessional divisions.

The county contains 465 civil parishes, and is in the diocese of Exeter and province of Canterbury, divided into the archdeaconries of Barnstaple, Exeter and Totnes, except the parishes of North Petherwyn, St. Giles-in-the-Heath, Virginstowe and Werrington, which are in Trigg Major rural deanery, Bodmin archdeaconry and Truro diocese. Barnstaple archdeaconry is subdivided into the rural deaneries of Barnstaple, Chulmleigh, Hartland, Holsworthy, Sherwell, South Molton and Torrington; Exeter into the rural deaneries of Aylesbeare, Cadbury, Christianity, Dunkeswell and Honiton, Kenn, Ottery, East Tiverton and West Tiverton; Totnes into the rural deaneries of Ipplepen, Moreton, Okehampton, Plympton, Tayistock, Three Towns, Totnes and Woodleigh. In 910 a bishop was seated at Crediton, but in 1050 Exeter was made the seat of the bishopric.

The Municipal boroughs are Barnstaple, population in 1901, 14,137; Bideford, 8,754; Dartmouth, 6,575; Devonport, 69,674; Exeter, 46,490; Honiton, 3,271; South Morton, 2,848; Okehampton, 2,568; Plymouth, 107,509; Tiverton, 10,382; Torquay, 33,625; Torrington, 3,241; Totnes, 4,034. Other towns are Ashburton, 2,628; Bampton, 1,657; Brixham, 8,090; Buckfastleigh, 2,520; Crediton, 3,974; Cullomptori, 2,919; Dawlish, 4,003; Exmouth, 10,487; Ilfracombe, 8,557; Ivybridge, 1,575; Kingsbridge, 3,025; Lynton, 1,641; Newton Abbot, 12,518; Northam, 5,357; Ottery St. Mary, 3,495; Paignton, 8,385; Sidmouth, 4,201; East Stonehouse, 15,111; Teignmouth, 8,836 and Topsham, 2,780.

The Registration Districts are: —

The Devon County Lunatic Asylum, half a mile north from Exminster, was originally built at a cost of £93,400, and opened 2 July, 1845: a new chapel and sanatorium were added in 1877 at a cost of about £12,500, and about 1896 considerable additions were made, including nurses’ block, quarters for assistant medical officer and the enlargement of the recreation rooms, the whole building was also fitted with electric light, the total cost being £190,000; the asylum is now available for 1,231 patients, and the number of inmates in 1901 was 1,160; Arthur M. Duis L.R.C.P, & S.Edin. resident physician and superintendent; Reginald Charles Jeremie Stevens M.B. & B.S.Durh., M.R.C.S.Eng, senior assistant medical officer; Joseph Longherd Baskin L.R.C.P. & S.Edin. jun. assistant medical officer; Rev. John B. Williams B.A. chaplain; Frederick Sanders, clerk to asylum; F. Pollard, auditor; W. H. Tucker, storekeeper; Frederick Sanders, clerk to the visitors.

The Western Counties Idiot Asylum, at Starcross, the foundation stone of which was laid on April g, 1874, by Lady Anna Maria Courtenay, is a building of grey limestone, relieved with dressings of buff brick and Bath stone, in the Early English style, and was opened in June, 1877; it consists of central block, with north and south wings, the central block comprising the administrative department and the residence of the superintendent; the northern wing being appropriated to boys and the southern to girls; the dining hall, a fine apartment, is 100 by 20 feet in area, and contains an organ, the gift of friends of the children: considerable additions were made in 1896, so that the asylum is now available for 180 boys and 90 girls; the entire cost has exceeded £32,000; the institution is supported by payments for the maintenance of the patients, augmented by voluntary contributions; Edgar Richard Senhouse Lipscombe L.R.C.P.Lond., M.R.C.S. Eng. medical officer; William Locke, resident superintendent and secretary; Sebastian Cosens Snow, Exeter Bank, Exeter, treasurer; Ernest William Locke, res. supt. and sec.; Mrs. Alice L. Mayer, matron.

The Royal Military Hospital is at Stoke, on the margin of the Stonehouse Pool; it was built in 1797, and has a colonnade of 41 arches, forming a fine promenade for the sick; the hospital is available for 285 patients.

The Royal Naval Hospital, to the north of Stonehouse, near the Pool, is directly opposite to the Royal Military Hospital on the Stonehouse side of the water: it was built in 1762, for the reception of seamen and marines, and occupies an area of 24 acres; from 600 to 700 patients can be received here, and there are residences for the various officers, surgeons and chaplains.

North Devon Infirmary, Barnstaple, is a large building, surrounded by well laid-out grounds, near the Taw Vale parade, overlooking the river; it was founded in 1825, and has been several times enlarged and remodelled from designs of Mr. R. D. Gould, architect; a wing was added in 1862, and another in 1883, from a gift of the late Miss Bassett, of Watermouth; large reception rooms for outpatients have also been added, at the cost of the late Dr. R. Budd, and a children’s ward containing 12 cots was opened in 1896, at a cost of £200. The infirmary is available for 85 patients, the annual expenditure being about £2,300; it is maintained entirely by voluntary contributions. The number of in-patients treated in 1900 was 654, and of out-patients, 2,669; Charles Hanlen Gamble M.R.C.S.Eng, and Joseph Harper L.R.C.P.Lond., M.R.C.S.Eng, consulting surgeons; James Wood Cooke M.R.C.S.Eng. Mark Jackson M.D., M.R.C.S.Eng. Walter Cooper L.R.C.P.Lond., M.R.C.S.Eng, and John Robinson Harper L.R.C.P.Lond., M.R.C.S.Eng, surgeons; Malcolm Bell Hay L.R.C.P.Lond., M.R.C.S.Eng, house surgeon; Edward Brown, surgeon-dentist; Rev. Richard Jarratt, chaplain; Claude Gould, hon. secretary; Miss Annie Spencer, matron.

The South Devon and East Cornwall Hospital, Plymouth, was erected at a cost of about £40,000, and is a building of native limestone in the Renaissance style, from designs by Mr. H. E. Coe, architect, of London, consisting of five blocks united by covered corridors, a porter’s lodge, mortuary, post-mortem rooms and carriage shed. The administrative portion contains committee, consulting and operative rooms, surgery, dispensary, out-patients’ waiting room, library &c. The east wing is assigned to women and children, the centre to men, and the west wing is reserved for cases of accident; and near the latter is an annexe for infectious cases. On the north side is the nurses’ institute, occupied by trained nurses, who may be sent out to various parts of the counties as required. There are beds for 168 patients, and space is left for doubling the size of the west wing if necessary. A new wing, to be called the “John Hay Wing,” was added in 1897, from designs by Messrs. Hine and Odgers, architects, through the munificence of Miss Hains, of Alton terrace, Plymouth, a relative of the late Mr. John Hay, who has given the sum of £20,000 for its erection and endowment. The wing is built chiefly of limestone, with Portland stone dressings, two stories in height, and comprises two large and two small wards, containing altogether 38 beds. In 1900 there were 1,282 in-patients and 2,654 out-patients; Robert Hogarth Clay M.D. and Lawrence Fox M.D. physicians; Francis Fox M.R.C.S.Eng, and Paul Swain F.R.C.S.Eng. consulting surgeons; Connell Whipple L.R.C.P.Lond., M.R.C.S.Eng. Walter Ley Woolcombe F.R.C. S.Edin. and Reginald Horace Lucy M.B., C.M., F.R.C.S.Eng. surgeons; Chas. Russel Rendle M.R.C.S.Eng. Georgee Frederick Aldous M.R.C.S.Eng, and Henry Webber M.D., M.S.Lond. assistant surgeons; Frederick Charles Hitchins M.R.C.S. Eng. L.R.C.P.Lond, senior house surgeon; Chas. Launder Chalk L.R.C.P.Lond., M.R.C.S.Eng, assistant house Burgeon; George Reginald Brifctan L.D.S.Edin. surgeon-dentist; Hemsley J. Shanks R.N. hon. sec.; J. Somes James, assistant sec.

The Royal Devon and Exeter Hospital, East Southernhay, Exeter, was first founded in 1741; the present hospital, opened in 17,13, has been considerably enlarged at various dates, and is an extensive brick building, containing 214 beds and a good medical library, established in 1838. In the year 1856 a new wing was added from a bequest by Mrs. Halford, and a ward for young children at the sola expense of the late Mrs. J. C. Bowring. A chapel for the use of the patients was erected in 1866 at the sole expense of the late Arthur Kempe esq. In 1896—7, another new wing, with laundry, kitchen and electric light works were added at a cost of £19,000. The number of in-patients treated in 1900 was 1,219, and of outpatients 5,067; A. Drake M.D. consulting physician; Henry Davy M.D. Arthur G. Blomfield M.D. and William Gordon M.A., M.B., B.C. physicians; James Bankart M.B., F.R.C.S.Eng. Arthur James Cumming F.R.C.S. Eng. and Thomas Wilson Caird M.R.C.S.Eng, consulting surgeons; John Delpratt Harris M.R.C.S.Eng. Edward James Domville L.R.C.P.Lond. Charles Edward Wallace Bell L.R.C.P.Edin., M.R.C.S.Eng, and Arthur C. Roper F.R.C.S.Edin. surgeons; Percy Henry Stirk L.R.C.P. Lond., M.R.C.S.Eng, house surgeon; William Arthur Trumper M.R.C.S.Eng., L.R.C.P.Lond, assistant house surgeon; Rev. William H. Parkhouse M.A. chaplain; Percy J. Kenward, hon. sec.; SI. S. Cole, assistant sec.

The Devon and Exeter Dental Hospital, Castle street, Exeter, was established 1880, and is supported entirely by voluntary contributions. The total number of cases treated in 1900 was 4,381; A. J. Cumming F.R.C.S.Eng. and James Bankart M.B.Lond. consulting surgeons; J. T. Browne-Mason L.D.S.Eng. Henry B. Mason L.D.S. R.C.S.Eng. T. G. T. Garland L.D.S.R.C.S.Irel. J. M. Ackland M.R.C.S. & L.D.S.Eng. T. A. Goard L.D.S.Eng., L.R.C.P.Lond, and William Henry Goodman L.D.S.Eng. dental surgeons; John Mortimer M.B.Lond. and Russell Coombe M.A., F.R.C.S.Eng. surgeon administrator of anaesthetics; Henry Yeo, hon. sec. and curator.

Dartmoor Convict Prison, built in 1806, at a cost of £127,000, consists of an extensive series of buildings, constructed principally of granite from the neighbouring moor: the outer wall incloses an area of about 30 acres; the prison itself comprises five rectangular buildings, each about 300 feet long by 50 broad, and residences for the governor, deputy-governor and officers; the principal gateway is formed of huge granite blocks, bearing the carved inscription “Parcere Subjectis.” Considerable additions were made to the buildings by the convicts in 1874, and further extensions have since been made; William Henry Osborn Russell, governor; Cyril Herbert Comyn Platt, deputy-governor; Rev. Lawrence James Hudson B.A. chaplain; Rev. M. Lawrenson, Catholic chaplain; William Simpson Frew M.B. & C.M.Edin. Edin. medical officer; Francis Edward Forward F.R.C.S. Eng., L.R.C.P.Lond, assistant, medical officer; Frank Collier Marks, steward; George Palmer, chief warder.

H.M. Prison, at Exeter, was completed in 1790, under an Act of Parliament obtained in 1787, but in 1853 was re-erected on the plan of the model prison at Pentonville, and will hold 363 prisoners of both sexes; Major Duncan Matheson, governor; Rev. Harry Creswell Pigott M.A. chaplain; John Mortimer M.B. surgeon; Frank Knight, storekeeper and clerk to the visiting justices.

H.M. Prison, Plymouth, erected in 1849, at a cost of about £12,500, is a building of blue limestone, with Caen stone dressings, in the Italian style, from designs by Messrs. Fuller and Gingell, architects, of Bristol; it contains 81 cells for prisoners, 57 males and 24 females; James Harding Duncan, governor; Rev. Joseph Jones, chaplain; Sedley Wolferstan L.R.C.P.Lond., M.R.C.S. Eng. surgeon.

At Bovey Tracey is the Devon House of Mercy for the Reception of Fallen Women; it was established in 1861, and formally opened in 1863, the foundation stone of the permanent house being laid by the late Earl of Devon in 1865; 90 inmates are received from all parts of the country, and instructed, with the view to their establishment in some respectable calling. The institution is supported by voluntary contributions, and is under the care of members of the Clewer (Windsor) Sisterhood. Id connection with this house is St. Gabriel’s Mission for work among the poor, carried on by the same Sisterhood; the Bishop of Exeter, visitor; the Archdeacon of Barnstaple, warden; E. Harding esq. and H. T. Ferguson esq. National Provincial Bank, Exeter, hon. treasurers; Rev. Prebendary Harry Tudor M.A. hon. sec.; H. Goodwyn L.R.C.P. & S.Edin. medical officer; Sister Bertha, lady superior.

Devon and Exeter Female Home and Penitentiary, in Holloway street, Exeter, founded in 1819, is a large building of brick and stone, available for 50 inmates; John Steele Perkins F.R.C.S.Eng. surgeon and hon. sec.; Rev. Sir Edward Harry Dutton Cole bart. M.A. chaplain.

Devon and Exeter Female Reformatory, Polsloe road, Exeter, a plain brick building, was established in 1835, for the employment and instruction of girls, and was enlarged as a reformatory school in 1858; Thomas M. Snow, hon. treasurer; Henry Davy M.D. and Edward Alexander Brash L.R.C.P.Lond, hon. medical officers; Joseph Gould, sec.; Miss Eliza Grindon, matron.

The British Seamen’s Orphans’ Home, at Brixham, for the western counties, was originally established at Rock House, in 1859, by the late William Gibbs esq. of Tyntesfield, near Bristol, for the purpose of making provision for the orphan sons of seamen; and subsequently a new building adjoining Rock House was opened in December, 1863, and completed in 1864; in 1873 these premises were enlarged, and in 1875 a separate school room for 50 boys was erected at the cost of the Baroness Burdett-Coutts. An additional wing was built by subscription in 1888—9 at a cost of £1,400. The freehold of the Home and Rock House and its grounds, now the chaplain’s residence, have been vested by Mrs. Gibbs in the Bishop of the diocese as trustee. The Home is now available for 76 boys; it is maintained by voluntary contributions and managed by a committee; Rev. Tom Lumsden Brown L.Th. resident chaplain and sec.

PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION OF DEVONSHIRE

Devon formerly returned six members in three divisions, but under the provisions of the Redistribution of Seats Act, 1885, it now returns eight members in eight divisions.

No. 1.-The Eastern or Honiton division comprises the sessional divisions of Axminster, Honiton, Ottery & Woodbury.

No. 2.-The North Eastern or Tiverton division comprises the sessional divisions of Cullompton & Wonford (except so much as is comprised in the Parliamentary borough of Exeter) & the municipal borough of Tiverton.

No. 3.-The Northern or South Molton division comprises the sessional divisions of Crediton, Great Torrington & South Molton & the municipal borough of South Molton.

No. 4.-The North Western or Barnstaple division comprises the sessional divisions of Bideford & Braunton & the municipal boroughs of Barnstaple & Bideford.

No. 5.-The Western or Tavistock division comprises the sessional divisions of Hatherleigh, Holsworthy, Lifton, Midland Roborough, Roborough & Tavistock & the municipal boroughs of Devonport & Plymouth.

No. 6.-The Southern or Totnes division comprises the sessional divisions of Ermington & Plyxnpton & Stanborough & Coleridge & the municipal borough of Totnes.

No. 7.-The Torquay division comprises the sessional division of Paignton & the municipal borough of Dartmouth.

No. 8.-The Mid or Ashburton division comprises the sessional divisions of Crockemwell & Teignbridge.

Under the provisions of the above-mentioned Act, the parliamentary representation of the boroughs of Barnstaple, Tavistock and Tiverton were merged into that cl the countv.

NAVAL & MILITARY

Plymouth and Devonport form a great naval and military station within fortified lines.

Devonport is the seat of a naval command and has extensive docks for building & refitting H.M. ships of war, and it is also the seat of the Military Commander-in-Chief for the western district of England; the head quarters of Plymouth division of Royal Marines is at Stonehouse.

Exeter is the depot of Regimental district No. 11, the Devonshire Regiment, which is composed of the 1st and 2nd Battalions (11th Foot) and the 2nd Devon Militia and the 1st Devon Militia comprising its 3rd and 4th Battalions respectively.

IMPERIAL YEOMANRY

1st Royal Devon, Staff-Lieut.-Col. & Hon. Col. Sir John Shelley bart. commanding.

Royal North Devon (Hussars), Lieut.-Col. & Hon. Col. Viscount Ebrington, commanding.

VOLUNTEERS

Artillery.

1st Devonshire, Wesitem Division, Royal Garrison Artillery.

2nd Devonshire, Western Division, Royal Garrison Artillery.

Cadet Corps.

Plymouth Mannamead College, Plymouth, S. F. Woodcock, captain.

Engineer Volunteers. 1st Devonshire & Somersetshire Royal Engineers, Lieut.-Col. & Hon. Col. T. J. Scoones V.D. commanding.

INFANTRY

Plymouth Brigade.

Comprising: —

1st (Exeter & South Devon) Volunteer Battalion, Devonshire Regiment, Exeter.

2nd (Prince of Wales’s) Volunteer Battalion, Devonshire Regiment, Plymouth.

3rd Volunteer Battalion, Devonshire Regiment, Exeter.

4th Volunteer Battalion, Devonshire Regiment, Barnstaple.

5th (The Hay Tor) Volunteer Battalion, Devonshire Regiment, Newton Abbot.

1st Volunteer Battalion, Duke of Cornwall's Light Infantry, Falmouth.

2nd Volunteer Battalion, Duke of Cornwall's Light Infantry, Bodmin.

Supply Detachment.

Bearer Company.

Head quarters of Brigade, Ivybridge.

Commanding Brigade, Col. Lord Clifford of Chudleigh A.D.C., V.D.

Aide-de-Camp, Capt. E. C. Nicholetts, 3rd Devonsh. Regt.

Brigade-Major, Major F. M. Eden.

Supply & Transport Officer, Hon. Lieut.-Col. L. E. Bearne V.D. 5th Volunteer Battalion, Devonshire Regt.

Senior Medical Officer, Brigade-Surgeon-Lieut.-Col. J. R. Thomas M.D., V.D. 4th Volunteer Battalion, Devonshire Regiment.

1st (Exeter & South Devon) Volunteer Battalion Devonshire Regiment. Staff-Lt.-Col.& Hon. Col. Sir Dudley.

Cadet Corps, Exeter school.

Captain, R. Montgomery.

2nd (Prince of Wales’s) Volunteer Battalion, Devonshire Regiment. Staff-Lieut.-Col. P. S. Snell, command.

Cadet Corps, Kelly College, Tavistock, A. O. V. Penny, hon. captain.

3rd Volunteer Battalion Devonshire Regiment. Staff-Lieut.-Col. & Hon. Col. the Right Hon. Sir J. H. Kennaway bart. V.D. comanding.

Cadet Corps.

All Hallows School, Honiton.

Blundell’s School, Tiverton.

Captain, E. F. C. Clarke.

4th Volunteer Battalion, Devonshire Regiment. Staff.-Col. E. S. Walcott C.B. commanding.

Cadet Corps.

United Services College, Westward Ho.

Second Lietuts. F. F. Mee & R. H. Martin.

5th Volunteer Battalion (The Hay Tor), Devonshire Regiment. Staff-Lieut.-Col. J. B. Coham-Fleming V.D. commanding.

FAIRS AND MARKETS

Appledore, market days, Wednesday & Saturday.

Ashburton, first Thursday in March & June, August 10, & November 11, if on Tuesday or Thursday, if not then on the first Tuesday or Thursday after: store cattle market, third Saturday in every month; market day, Saturday.

Axminster, Tuesday after April 25, Tuesday after June 24 & the Wednesday after October 10; market day, Thursday; cattle market, every alternate Thursday, & meat market every Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday.

Bampton, the last Thursday in October, for cattle, sheep & horses, the latter is celebrated for its large sale of Exmoor ponies; cattle sales are held on the last Wednesday in February, March, April, May, July, August & Nov.

Barnstaple, first Wednesday preceding September 20, for three days; market day, Friday.

Berry Narbor, an annual revel first Sunday after St. Peter’s day.

High Bickington, first Monday, May 14.

Bideford, market days, Tuesday & Saturday.

Bishopsnympton, Whit Monday, for cattle, & the Wednesday before October 25.

Bratton Clovelly, second Tuesday in May & first Tuesday after October 19.

Bratton Fleming, August 19, for cattle.

South Brent, last Tuesday in April & September, for cattle & horses & a cattle market on the last Tuesday in February, August & November; the September fair is noted for the large number of Dartmoor ponies which are brought from the moors.

Brixham, market daily.

Buckfastleigh, third Thursday in June & second Thursday in September.

Burlescombe, cattle market last Monday in the month.

Burrington, Trinity Monday, for cattle & sheep.

Chagford, first Thursday in May, September & October & last Thursday in March, for cattle & sheep.

Chawleigh, May 6; monthly market for cattle, sheep, horses, produce & implements on every second Wednesday except in September & December, when it is on the first Wednesday.

Cheriton Bishop, Wednesday in Whitsun week, for pleasure.

Chulmleigh, Easter Wednesday & the last Wednesday in July for cattle, & Thursday & Friday for pleasure.

Churston Ferrers, cattle market, fourth Monday in each month.

Colyton, third Tuesday in April & second Tue. in October.

Crediton, for pleasure, on August 22 & five following days, if that date should fall on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday, but if not, then on the Tuesday succeeding; market day, Saturday; monthly cattle market, third Thursday in every month except April & August; on the Saturday before the last Wednesday the great market is held, which is the largest cattle fair in the West of England.

Cullompton, first Wednesday in May & November; market day, Saturday; cattle market first Wednesday in every month except May & November.Stolen from Fore-bears

Culmstock, Monday preceding May 21, for cattle.

Dartmouth, market day, Friday; market every second Tuesday for sheep & cattle.

Dawlish, Easter Monday, for pleasure.

Devonport, market days, Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday.

Dodbrooke, cattle market, third Wed. in every month.

Dolton, markets in December, February & April.

Dunsford, Monday after September 8, for cattle.

Eggesford, market second Wednesday in every month except December, when it is held on the first.

Ermington, June 24.

Exeter, third Wednesday in, February & May, last Wednesday in July, first Thursday in October & second Wednesday in December; market day, Friday.

Exminster, May 27, for pleasure.

Exmouth, April 26 & October 28; market day, Saturday; cattle market, second & last Tuesday in every month.

Hartland, Easter Wednesday & September 25, for cattle & the first Wednesday in August & third Thursday in October; annual market for sheep & cattle second Saturday in March.

Hatherleigh, May 21, June 22, September 4 & November 8; should any of those dates happen to fall on a Saturday, Sunday or Monday, then the fair is held on the Tuesday following; they are all for cattle; market day, Tuesday.

Hemyock, market for live stock every third Monday in the month.

Holsworthy, July 10, 11 & 12; market day, Wednesday, for corn & cattle, & for cattle, horses, sheep &c. third Wed. in every month except July, in which month St. Peter’s fair is held.

Honiton, Wednesday & Thursday after July 19, for cattle & horses; market day, Saturday; two large markets for cattle on second Saturday in April & Saturday before October 18.

Ilfracombe, market day, Saturday & Wednesday in the season; annual market, first Sat. after August 22.

Ivybridge, markets held on the third Monday in every month for horses, cattle, sheep &c.

Kentisbeare, Whit Wednesday, for pleasure Kenton, Shrove Tuesday.

Kingsbridge, Thursday after July 20, for cattle & pleasure & extends to the end of the week; market day, sat.

Lew Down, last Tuesday before the last Wednesday in. November & third Wednesday in April.

Lifton, February 13.

Milton Abbot, first Tuesday in July.

Modbury, May 4, for stock; cattle market, second Monday in every month.

North Molton, first Wednesday after May 12 & last Wednesday in October, for cattle.

South Molton, third Wednesday in June & the Wednesday, after August 25; market days, Thursday & Saturday; cattle markets, first Thursday in every month.

Moreton Hampstead, market day, Tuesday & cattle market the fourth Tuesday in every month.

Newton Abbot, first Wednesday after June 24, for horses, cattle & general merchandise, first Wednesday after September 11, for horses, cattle, cheese, onions & general merchandise, & St. Leonard’s fair on the first Wednesday after November 6; market day, Wednesday; cattle market, last Wednesday in February.

Newton Poppleford, third Wednesday in April & Wednesday on or after October 17.

Northam, a revel on Whit Monday.

Okehampton, second Tuesday after March 11, for cattle, & horse fair in October; market day, Saturday; cattle market, first Saturday in every month.

Otterton, Easter Wednesday & the Wednesday after Oct. 10.

Ottery St. Mary, Tuesday before Palm Sunday, the second Tuesday after Whit Sunday & August 15; market day, Thursday; cattle market, third Tuesday in every month.

Plymouth, market days, Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday.

Plympton St. Maurice, cattle market, first Monday in each month.

Sampford Peverell, Monday before last Wednesday in April, for cattle.

Sandford, Monday after July 26, for cattle.

Sidbury, Wednesday before Sept. 20 for cattle & cheese.

Sidmouth, Easter Monday & the third Monday in September for cattle; market days, Thursday & Saturday.

Starcross, Whitsun Wednesday, for pleasure.

Stockland, first Wednesday after June 11, for stock.

Tavistock, second Wednesday in every month, for cattle & the goose fair on the second Wednesday in October, for cattle, horses & pleasure; market day, Friday.

North Tawton, for cattle & horses on the third Tuesday in April & second Tuesday in October, & a fat stock show on the first Tuesday in Dec.; market day, thurs.

South Tawton, first Thursday after July 9, for cattle.

Teignmouth, market day, daily.

Thorverton, last Monday in February & the Monday after July 18, for lambs & cattle.

Tiverton, first Thursday in June & October, for cattle, horses & sheep; market day, Tuesday.

Topsham, Thursday preceding July 19, for pedlery; market day, Saturday.

Torquay, market days, Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday.

Torrington, first Thursday in May & third Saturday in March, second Thursday & two following days in Oct.; market day, Saturday.

Totnes, May 12 & October 28, when those days fall on a Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday or Friday & when they do not, on the following Tuesday; market day, Saturday; cattle markets, first Tuesday in every month & third Tuesday, except in May & October.

Uffculme, markets, bi-monthly, second Monday in Feb. April, June, August & October & first Mon. in December.

Up-Ottery, Tuesday before Lady day, for cattle.

Whimple, Monday before Michaelmas day; it has fallen into disuse.

Widdecombe-in-the-Moor, second Tuesday in September, for cattle & Dartmoor sheep & ponies are largely bought.

Winkleigh, first Wednesday in April, first Monday after July 8 & first Wednesday in October, for cattle.

Witheridge, third Thursday in April.

Yealmpton, cattle market, the fourth Wed. in each month.

The following Table shows the acreage under each kind of crop, and the number of horses, cattle, sheep and pigs in Devonshire, as taken from the Agricultural Returns, 1900: —

DEVON COUNTY COUNCIL

Local Government Act, 1888, 51 & 52 Vict. c. 41.

Under this Act the county of Devon, except certain boroughs, for which see below (a), after the 1st April, 1889, for the purposes of the above Act, became an administrative county (sec. 46), governed by a County Council, consisting of chairman, aldermen and councillors elected in manner prescribed by the Act (sec. 2).

The chairman, by virtue of his office, is justice of the peace for the county, without qualification (sec. 46).

The police for the county are under the control of a standing joint committee of the Quarter Sessions, and the County Council appointed as therein mentioned (sec. 9).

The coroners for the county are elected by the County Council, and the clerk of the peace appointed by such joint committee, and may be removed by them (sec. 83—2).

The clerk of the peace for the county is also clerk of the County Council.

The administrative business of the county (which would, if this Act had not been passed, have been transacted by the justices) is transacted by the County Council.

(a) Each of the following large boroughs is, for the purposes of this Act, an administrative county in itself, called a County Borough (sec. 30), of which the municipal corporation has the power of a County Council (sec. 31)-Devonport, Exeter and Plymouth.

COUNTY POLICE

HEAD QUARTERS, EXETER.

Chief Constable, F. R. Cyril Coleridge esq.

Deputy Chief Constable, Supt. George Jesse.

Chief Clerk, Superintendent William Payne.

The force consists of a chief constable, deputy chief constable, chief clerk, 12 superintendents, 1 inspector, 1 sergeant major, 47 sergeants & 356 constables.

A Division.-Superintendent, James Hobbs, Barnstaple.

B Division.-Supt. Walter J. Pelly, South Molton.

C Division.-Supt. Richard G. Collins, Cullompton.

D Division.-Supt. H. F. de Schmid, Capt. Honiton.

Exe Division.-Superintendent, George Jesse (deputy chief constable), Exeter.

E Division-Supt. J. J. Wood, Chudleigh.

F Division.-Superintendent, H. J. Roberts, Torquay.

G Division.-Superintendent, John Ryall, Totnes.

H Division-Supt. E. H. Hacon, Stonehouse.

K Division-Superintendent, Richard Nicholls, Tavistock.

L Division-Supt. G. Bond, Holsworthy.

M Division.-Supt. Charles G.Buchanan, Great Torrington.

N Division-Superintendent, M. Egan, Crediton.

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BOUNDARIES, SITUATION, AND EXTENT

The maritime county of Devon is bounded bv the Bristol Channel on the west and north-west; on the west by the river Tamar, and a small rivulet called Marsland-water; on the south and south-east by the British Channel; and by the counties of Dorset and Somerset on the east and south-east. Devon is in its greatest length 69 miles, and its greatest breadth is 64 miles, containing about 1,600,000 acres, 33 hundreds, 349 parishes, 37 market-towns, 71,486 houses, and 439,040 inhabitants. The whole of Devonshire is in the diocese of Exeter and Western Circuit; it sends 26 representatives to Parliament, viz. two for the county, and two for each of the following places': Exeter, Totness, Plymouth, Oakhampton, Barnstaple, Plympton, Honiton, Tavistock, Ashburton, Dartmouth, Bere-Alston, and Tiverton.

NAME

“The hithermost part of the county of the Danmonii is now commonly called Devonshire; by the Cornish Britons, Deunon; by the Welsh, Deufney, the deep vallies, because the lower parts of it are chiefly inhabited; by the Saxons, Deuonschire, whence comes the Latin name, Devona, and the common contraction, Denshire, and not from the Danes, as the learned Rowe has remarked.”—Camden.

CLIMATE

That of Devonshire is remarkably mild, particularly the southern part, where vegetation suffers very little interruption during the winter season. It is only on the northern coast and in the north-east corner of the county, where any thing like the severity of winter is occasionally felt. On the highest parts of Dartmoor, the air, though bleak and piercing, is invigorating and salubrious. Even in this elevated region, the snow seldom lays any length of time. In fact, such is the mildness of the climate of the south of Devon and Cornwall, that medical men recommend it to their consumptive patients; and many constitutions broken by a long residence in either of the Indies, are often preserved, and restored here. Another proof of the mildness of this part of the country, is that the Dutch broad-leaved flowering myrtle, as well as the more delicate and narrow-leaved sorts, constantly flourish in the open air, and frequently form a part of the garden hedges.

SOIL

The heights of this in many parts, especially about Dartmoor, swell into mountains, the altitude of its eminences being from 1500 to 1800 feet. “On approaching this tract from the south and south-east, the eye is bewildered by an extensive waste, exhibiting gigantic tors, large surfaces covered with masses of scattered granite and immense rocks, which seem to have been precipitately thrown into the vallies, as if tom piecemeal by the raging elements. The soils, strictly speaking, are divided into four sorts, but which are most judiciously described by Mr. Charles Vancouver, in his General View of the Agriculture of the County of Devon: the first, according to Risdon, standeth most in white chalk, on the east side of the county; the second, is the red land, surrounding Exeter, and extending east and west of it; the third, is the peat soil, principally about Dartmoor; the fourth, which pervades the greatest part of the county, though varied in its appearance by casual mixtures, is what has lately obtained the name of dun land rivers. But the soil most prevalent, is remarkable in two circumstances; “its rapid spontaneous production of grass, when under good management, and its total want of calcareous principle.” The general character of the mineralogy of this county, is that of an elevated tract of granite, running from north to south, and passing into or under a super-stratum of primitive schistus, on its western side, and of alluvial sand-stone and chalk on the eastern limits. The mineral productions are Tin; some lodes of Copper, Iron, Zinc, Antimony, Manganese, Wolfram, Arsenic, and Cobalt.

RIVERS

The principal rivers in this county are the Exe, the Torridge, the Taw, the Oke, the Dart, the Plym, the Otter, and the Axe. The Tamar is also considered as belonging to Devonshire.

The Isk of the Britons, the Isca of the Romans, and the Ex, or Exe, of the Saxons and of the moderns, rises in Exmoor, in Somersetshire, within three miles of the Severn Sea, and, after being joined by several streams, it pursues its course into Devonshire, passing Tiverton, where there is a stone bridge over the river. In its progress towards Exeter, it receives the waters of the Loman, the Creedy from Crediton, commonly called Kirton, and the Culm, or Columbe, from Collumpton and Bradninch. From Exeter the river flows through a fine range of meadows to Topsham; here it meets the tide, and increasing considerably in capacity, becomes navigable for vessels of several hundred tons burthen. It at length falls into the British Channel at Exmouth, after a course from its source of nearly sixty miles.

About 16 miles above Saltash the Tamar receives the water of the Lyd, a small river rising a few miles above Lidford in Devonshire. This little river is particularly remarkable for its course through the midst of rocks and over prodigious precipices. At Lidford-bridge, which is nearly level with the road, the surface of the water is almost eighty feet perpendicular below it, so that it can hardly be seen or heard from above.

About a mile below Lidford-bridge there is a cataract, or fall of water, of more than 100 feet in height. The water passes a mill at some distance, and, after a course upon a descent of near 100 feet from the level of the mill, it arrives at the brink of the precipice, from whence it falls in a beautiful manner on a projecting part of the cliff, by which it is divided, and falls from thence in a wider cataract to the bot“tom; when striking the bottom with great violence, acquired by so prodigious a fall, it forms a deep bason covered with foam, in the ground; thence it runs in an easy current to the river Lyd. The Torridye and Tamar have their source from the parish of Wellcomb.

The source of the Torridge is so near that of the Tamar, in the northern part of Cornwall, on the summit of a high moor, that its springs are supposed to be the same, and the difference of their course to rise from some trifling variation in the height of the ground near the place where they issue.

This river becomes navigable at Wear-Gifford, about three miles from Bideford, and in its progress from thence unites with the Taw, and enters the Bristol Channel at Barnstaple Bay.Stolen from Fore bears

The Taw rises in Dartmoor, and running northward towards Chumleigh, from thence it winds in a westerly direction towards Barnstaple, receiving in its course the waters of the Moule and several other small streams. About five miles below, it falls into the Torridge, as we have before mentioned.

The river Dart has also its source in the mountainous region of Dartmoor, and, according to some writers, derives its name from the velocity of its current, and it certainly appears extremely appropriate.

“Rapidity is its first characteristic, and this quality it retains long after it leaves those mountains which enclose its source, as it descends into the rich plains of the southern part of Devonshire. A little to the west of Ashburton it forms a charming valley, and flows in placid beauty beneath the high hill which is distinguished by the castle and church of Totness.

Soon after, the Dart receiving the tide, roils in a majestic stream between bold hills, covered with cultivation, woods, and villages, disclosing new beauties at every curve, and presenting a grand object to the adjacent country, varied perpetually both in its form and attendant features. The eminences which enclose the channel of the Dart, become at last almost mountainous, forming on the west a barrier to the southern peninsula of Devonshire, and on the east to the road of Torbay; while the river, winding between these rocky bases, passes the very striking position occupied by the hamlet of Kingswear on its eastern bank, and the singularly irregular town of Dartmouth on its western, the whitened fronts of whose houses, built in stages over each other, and beautifully interspersed with rock and wood, form a curious assemblage of interesting objects. The ivyed walls of Dartmouth-castle, with a rustic spire starting out from beneath a bold rocky hill, close the prospect with great majesty, and strongly mark the proud exit of the Dart towards the British Channel.”—Shrink's History of Rivers.

The Plym also rises in Dartmoor, in the parish of Lidford, the whole forest being in that parish, and, after a course of about seven miles, is joined by a small stream near Plympton, where it becomes navigable for small vessels, and two miles below, falls into Plymouth Sound, a little below Plymouth.

The Teign rises among the moors on the eastern side of the forest of Dartmoor, near Gidleigh, commencing with two small springs. Mr. Polwhele, in his history of this county, describes this river as “often pent up in deep and narrow vallies, whence the sound of its waters may be heard at a considerable distance: it is increased at every turn, by brooks descending from those coombs which terminate the heights of Haldon, and the downs of Bradford and Hennock. The country through which it passes is full of rocks till it approaches Bovey Tracy, when it glides over a flat marshy ground, and, rolling under Teign-bridge, spreads itself into a broader shallow channel, and thus runs on without interruption to the sea. When swelled with rains, its colour is almost black; at other times brown.”

The Tavy rises in Dartmoor, and after passing the little villages of Peter Tavy and Mary Tavy, winds through a deep valley to Tavistock. The ruins of the abbey upon the banks of this river, with the contiguous scenery, form a very romantic view. At some distance from Tamerton Fcliot, the Tavy falls into the river Tamar.

The Yealm, the Arme, and the Avek, also take their rise in Dartmoor. The Otter and the Sid enter the county from the borders of Somersetshire; the Axe runs out of Dorsetshire; and all of them flow into the British Channel.

The Lyn, which rises in the forest of Exmoor, is a small but very rapid river, pursuing its impetuous course over rocks of immense size, and at length rushes into the Bristol Channel.

CANALS

The canal from the quay at Exeter, to Cooley-bridge, proceeds from the latter point, east of the church, through the parish of Newton St. Cyres, and terminates at the Four Mills in Crediton parish.

The canal from Tavistock to the Tamar, at the distance of two miles and a half from the former place, strikes the north side of Moorwall Down. Its course is then south and a little westwardly; it is cut eight feet deep, and six wide, having a depth of three feet three inches in water, to answer the purpose of navigating boats 24 feet in length, but not to exceed the burthen of two tons each.

The canal at Teigngrace not only facilitates the exportation of pipe-clay, but supplies water for irrigating the adjoining grounds, and which has raised their value from 500l. to 1500l. per annum.

The Crediton, the Exeter, and the Tavistock canals are now completed. The Tamar canal, which only skirts the western edge of the county, was begun nearly nineteen years since.

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS

This county is divided into thirty-three hundreds, containing one city, Exeter; thirty-seven market-towns, 1733 villages, and a population, according to the returns under the late act, of 383,308. Devonshire is in the province of Canterbury and diocese of Exeter, and has 394 parishes.

FISH AND FISHERIES

The rivers of Devonshire abound with fish so much, that besides supplying home consumption, great quantities are taken for the London markets. The rivers Tavy and Tamar produce considerable revenues to their proprietors from their salmon. The Otter is famous for its trout and salmon peel or pail. The oyster-beds at Starcross, Topshain, and Lympstone, are extremely productive. The salmon fishery of the Tavy is attached to the lands of Buckland-place, and the weir is a work of considerable magnitude and expence; but the principal part of the produce of this fishery is taken by nets.

The river Tavy, for near a mile below the weir, is broken into rapids and pools, some of them very deep; seven or eight of these are adapted to the sean or draw-net, drawn once or twice a day by four men, with horses to carry the net, and with dogs to convey the end of the rope across the water, where it is too deep or inconvenient to be forded.

In the Tavy, the fishing season commences in the middle or latter end of February; but on the Tamar, not till several weeks afterwards, and closes in October or November, when the weir is thrown open, and the fish are suffered to go up to spawn.

The herring-fishery, formerly carried on to a considerable extent, is in a great measure lost, as the herrings have unaccountably forsaken the shores of Devon; a circumstance much to be lamented, being such a one as is entirely out of the reach of human wisdom to supply. A few, however, still frequent the coast in the fall of the year, but are very small, both in size and quantity. Pilchards also still frequent the southern coasts of Devon, Dorset, and Cornwall.

The weir-house, or trap, for catching the salmon, is constructed on the principle of the vermin-trap, whose entrance is outwardly large, but contracted inwardly, so as to elude or prevent the escape of the animal which has been taken in it. It is remarkable, however, with respect to salmon, that although the entrance is by no means so narrow as to prevent even the largest from returning, it is believed that there is no instance of those which have once entered quitting their confinement, though they may have remained in it several days. A circumstance, perhaps, which can only be accounted for in the natural propensity, or instinct, which directs them against the stream, and will not suffer them to give up any advantage which they may have gained; the ascent into the trap being an effort of difficulty, in this case perhaps too great.

On the higher side of the trap, (which is twelve or fifteen feet square on the inside), opposite to the entrance, is an opening or sluice in the stone-work, or rather the rock, as a passage for the water. This opening has two lifting flood-gates, the one close, to shut out occasionally the whole of the water, the other a grate, to suffer the water to pass, and at the same time to prevent fish of any considerable size from escaping. When the trap is set, the close gate is drawn up with an iron crow, thus suffering the water to pass through the house. On the contrary, to take the fish which have entered, the close gate is let down, and the trap is presently left in a manner dry.

It is observable, that the narrowed entrance of the trap is judiciously placed somewhat above the floor, so that before the salmon are seriously alarmed by the fall of the water, it has sunk below the mouth of the trap, and their retreat the more effectually cut off; for by following the water near the floor, they are led away beneath the tunnel, which like the open flood-gate, &c. is made of strong wooden bars, open enough to permit the passage of the water, hut not the fish. The top or covering of the trap is a floor of planks, nearly level with the top of the wear; on the lower side of which, the trap is of course situated.

AGRICULTURE

That of Devonshire, with its mines and other productions, this county being next in size to Yorkshire, renders it one of the most valuable in England. So much at least may be inferred from Vancouver and other agriculturists. The external aspect of this county is however extremely varied and irregular; and the heights in many parts, but particularly in Dartmoor and its vicinity, swell into mountains, the altitudes of the principal eminences being from 1500 to 1800 feet. Cultivation is promoted and encouraged by the Devonshire Agricultural Society, first established in 1791; and from its perfection, the district called the South Hams is frequently termed the garden of Devonshire. The area of this district, including the rich valley of the Dart, which extends towards Ashburton, contains nearly 250 square miles. This tract is strikingly diversified by bold swells, winding coombs, and fine vales; and in many parts, particularly towards the north, the scenery is picturesque and highly romantic. The upper grounds of the South Hams are appropriated alternately to pasture and to tillage; the lower grounds are principally cultivated as meadows. All the lands are in a state of permanent enclosure; the fences are chiefly high mounds, surmounted by coppice-wood, which affords a sufficient supply of fuel, and a surplus of poles, cord, wood, faggots, and oak-bark for sale.

An annual meeting of the South Devonshire Agricultural Society has long been held alternately at Totness and Kingsbridge; and that for the North of Devon, at Barnstaple.

WASTE LANDS

The principal of these lie in and about the forest of Dartmoor, and have occupied the greatest portion of the western district of the county, extending from the Vale of Exeter, nearly to the banks of the Tamar, including between two and three hundred acres of open and uncultivated lands. Of these, Dartmoor alone, before the late enclosure, comprised many thousand acres. These extensive tracts afford little more than a scanty pasturage for a few thousand sheep and cattle. The right of depasture belongs to different interests; the forest itself being the property of the Prince af Wales, as a parcel of the Duchy of Cornwall; but the outskirts and parts of the hills are appurtenances to the surrounding manors, many of which have likewise a prescriptive right of common on the forest, on account of an inconsiderable sum paid annually to the Duchy. In the higher parts of the moor, to the north and west, are vast tracts of wet swampy ground, exceeding dangerous to the pasturing cattle, though they supply the neighbouring inhabitants with peat for fuel. Many of the peatbogs are of great depth, and in dry summers arc covered with a strong succulent grass.

MANURES

The principal manures employed in this county are lime, sea-sand, and dung. In the southern part of the Hams, being at a considerable distance from lime, they have long been in the habit of making use of sea-sand, as a substitute for it, in the proportion of one or two hundred seams per acre, (each seam contains two bushels). This they mixed with earth, the scrapings of the lanes, mud from ponds, and bottoms of the ditches, but especially with rotten dung, when it could be procured. Most of this, on account of the country being hilly, was carried on horses’ backs, till carts and other vehicles equally convenient were brought into more general use.

MANSIONS, FARM-HOUSES, &C

The ruinated state of the former in this county is much lamented, as it is not unfrequent to see two or three apartments in some of these, propped up as the residence of the hind, or bailiff of the estate; and at the same time the elegance, the plan, and comforts of the modern buildings, are in many instances less estimable than in the ancient and hospitable manor-houses.

In some parts the farm-houses are situated just above the reach of the autumnal and winter floods, and in others they are frequently found grouped together in villages, and are sometimes constructed of cob and stone-work. This stone, which is soft and easily worked when first taken from the quarry, becomes hard and durable when exposed to the air, and is very neat in its appearance. The repairs of walls, floors, roofs, and doors, are usually done by the landlord; and all others, except the finding of stuff for gates, rails, and posts, are performed by the tenant.

FARMS AND FARMERS

With regard to the size of farms in general, the smaller occupants most commonly reside near the borders of Dartmoor, and the larger hold rich tracts of feeding and arable land in the country below.

Many of the minor order that are called farmers, derive a considerable part of their subsistence from digging, and curing peat fuel, upon Dartmoor, and the commons abutting upon that forest, and packing it to the large towns in the South Hams. Another description of farmers, or rather jobbers, are continually upon the watch, ransacking the country for every species of farming stock, whether store, or in a fed condition. The farms of these people are often covered with sheep, hogs, and cattle, collected in this manner; and when Plymouth or Exeter do not afford a satisfactory market, they proceed towards Taunton with their droves, and keep moving eastward till they find a market that will suit them. This being accomplished, they return home, and resume their former pursuits. The owners of the pastures about Exmoor, in some degree resemble this description; they are said to work equally hard with the common labourers, and live little, if at all better, than the most provident of that class.

LEASES, &c

With very few exceptions, the landed property in this county seems very much divided. A large portion of it is in the hands of a respectable yeomanry, and other estates belonging to the sees of Exeter, York, and Salisbury, the Dean and Chapter of Windsor, the universities, and the Duchy of Cornwall, forming no inconsiderable part of the whole county. Here too the proprietor is commonly advised to grant those life-hold tenures so frequently heard of in Devonshire and in Wales, and which are deemed more injurious than is generally apprehended; but fortunately this species of tenure is become much lessened within the last twenty-five years. The proprietors of the fee-simple used to lease their estates generally for three lives, nominated by the purchaser; or for ninety-nine years, if a nominee survive that term; a circumstance that has happened, reserving, however, a small annual rent. As these lives drop, new ones were generally put in, on payment of an adequate sum. The usual manner of letting farms and estates here, is by what is called a survey or auction. These are often held at a public-house, where the steward has every thing in readiness to stimulate and encourage the bidding; which closed, the landlord, through his steward, names his price, which is offered to the highest bidder downwards, to the last person who would be approved. Should no one accept it, the company disperses, and the farm is disposed of by private contract, no preference being given to the old tenant or his family, whose principal object during the latter period of the term, is usually to delapidate, pare, and burn, and by every method which can be devised, despoil the form. On many occasions a per centage is allowed to the steward, for his address in procuring a high bidding at this survey or auction. There are, however, several covenants where these leases do not prevail, which are sold by the same mode for a term of fourteen or twenty-one years; determinable every seven years, on a twelvemonth’s notice by either party. What is now called a term of fourteen years absolute, is taking place of the lifehold tenures; and the covenants of the former require, that 60 measures of lime, or 200 horse-loads of sea-sand, seaweed, Plymouth, Exeter, or other rich, rotten dung, shall be applied per acre, and not to have more than two white straw crops in succession; besides being restrained from carrying either hay or straw to market without returning with a corresponding quantity of dung. Many of the farms are very small, varying from 20l. per annum to 700l. and upwards.

TITHES

The church property, consisting of tithes and demesnes belonging chiefly to the see of Exeter, are frequently held in perpetuity by the nobility and gentry, renewable with certain or arbitrary fines. These are justly called valuable possessions, though an indulgence is sometimes given, and formerly went to a greater length, enabling the widow of the last surviving tenant to the church lands in possession, to hold over the estate so long as she remained unmarried. However, as intrigues and a loose and disreputable attachment were too frequently the result, great care is now taken by the bishop to prevent them.

The general commutation taken by the Clergy here for great and small tithes, is about two shillings and sixpence in the pound, on the reserved rent, including the parochial disbursements; or about three shillings in the pound on the reserved rent alone. When the great and small tithes are separate, the rector is generally contented with two shillings in the pound, and for the vicarial tithes not covered by a modus, a just and reasonable commutation is paid.

The general commutation for great and small tithes, is two shillings and sixpence, two shillings and nine-pence, and three shillings in the pound, including the valuation of the reserved rent and parochial disbursements. In the neighbourhood of Dartington, the commutation is regulated at two shillings and sixpence in the pound rent, when the average price of wheat is below nine shillings per bushel, and three shillings in the pound when above that average. cottages.

These, or rather the oldest of them, are generally built of stone, and considering that this article is by no means difficult to procure, it was hoped this would have caused a discontinuance of the use of mud-walls, the cob-buildings of which have been remarked as nearly as numerous as those once used by the Belgœ, who were the first to introduce this dull, heavy, and deforming material; and when these are not rough-cast, or white-washed, their appearance at a distance resembles a peat-field; from both of which smoke may be sometimes seen to issue. However, there are now very comfortable cottages, with a fire-place and oven in the principal room, about fourteen feet square; two small rooms behind the larger, one for fuel and provisions; the upper story divided into two apartments, for the parents and their children. Such cottages are now built in this county, and decently finished for less than 80l. The Rev. Mr. Luxmore, Lord Clifford, Lord Rolle, and several other distinguished proprietors, have exerted themselves very laudably in providing decent habitations for the labouring poor. From cottages attached to farms, Mr. Vancouver has observed, the most substantial benefits have resulted. For these, with a garden, the compensation is various, but is averaged short of 40s. per annum; but the rent of the cottage, with a small patch for pot-herbs only, may be taken at about 30s. per annum.

LABOUR AND LABOURERS

The wages of the out-door labourer is generally seven shillings per week, winter and summer, and from a quart to three pints of drink daily. Even in hay-time and harvest these wages are not increased, though additional exertions at those seasons are amply compensated by board, and treatings with ale and cider. During the war, the addition to these wages was the standing supply of wheat at six shillings, and barley at three shillings per bushel. A portion of land is also assigned by the farmer to each peasant family for growing potatoes, which enables some of these to keep a pig. Among the small farmers, the men are often content to receive 3s. 6d. per week and their board. It is also no unusual practice in the northern and western part of the county for a man to work at harvesting for one day, only for his drink and hoard, upon condition that he shall be invited to the harvest frolic at the farmer’s house, which continues for some days together.

Near large trading towns the price of labour has occasionally risen with the demand. But the hours of work and stinted labour have long been customary here: the former are from seven to twelve, and from one to between five and six. Even in summer, when at day-work, the labourer may be seen on his way home with his tools at his back: this however is not the result of idleness, but of custom; as having performed his stint, the labourer is no longer detained.

ENCLOSING

Instances are very rare of enclosures being made in some districts: in others, they have been altogether as large: for instance, adjoining Black-down on the west, in the parish of Loddiswell, about 70 acres of moorland have been enclosed; and amongst others, more considerable, about 1200 acres were enclosed by the late General Simcoe, of Black-down hills.

GARDENS AND ORCHARDS

It is presumed, that kitchen gardens are in no part of England laid out on a more extensive scale than in the county of Devon; and next to considerable quantities of well-flavoured wall-fruit, the culinary vegetables can no where be surpassed for general excellence. The gardens of the farmers and peasantry, generally afford large quantities of leeks, so much in use among them; and these, with pot-herbs, other kitchen, and a few ornamental plants and flowers, wholly occupy these gardens, whilst potatoes are supplied from larger portions of ground in the fields. Cider being the common beverage of the inhabitants, the cultivation of orchards is of course a material consideration; however the number of orchards in some parts differs materially from others.

IMPLEMENTS

The common Devonshire plough made by a hedgerow carpenter, seldom exceeding 15s. cost, irons and all, is much used, and its performance is much superior to what may be expected from the rude appearance it makes, either at work or lying upon the ground.

The paring-plough is also used here, to supply the use of the breast-plough, or paring-shovel; as is also the turn-wrest, one-way furrow, or double-sole plough; and Lord Clifford has introduced the double and single Warwickshire ploughs: the Norfolk wheel-plough is also used. Harrows commonly used here, consist of a very heavy drag, usually drawn by four or six oxen; and a lighter kind of harrow, sometimes in one piece, but more commonly divided in the middle, and connected with links. Drill-machines are also attached to the ploughs by various contrivances. Thrashing-machines made by Baker of Exeter, are very prevalent, and cost about forty guineas each; and scarifiers, scufflers, shims, and broad shares, of various constructions, called by the general name of tormentors, are much in use here.

ROADS AND PACK-HORSES

These, upon the whole, arc not in the first order of excellence. The parish roads are extremely various: the fault of the whole seems to result from the black gravel, &c. out of which they are made, which from its excessive coarseness, is soon broken into so many holes, as much to endanger the knees of the horse, and the neck of the rider; but whilst the parish roads are very indifferent, the public roads round Exeter, Axminster, Honiton, and many other large towns in the county, cannot be surpassed by any in England.

Another inconvenience arises from the height of some of the hedge-banks, on each side of the roads, often covered with a rank growth of coppice-wood, which uniting and interlocking with each other overhead, suggests the idea of exploring a labyrinth, rather than that of passing through a much frequented country. But the most unpleasant sensations result from the traveller’s meeting with, or being overtaken by a gang of pack-horses. The rapidity with which these animals descend the hills, when not loaded, and the utter impossibility of passing loaded ones, enforce the utmost caution in keeping out of the way of the one, and exertion in keeping a-head of the other. A cross-way fork in the road, or gateway, is eagerly looked for, as a retiring spot to the traveller, until the pursuing squadron, or heavy-loaded brigade, may have passed by. In these roads it is impossible to form any idea of the surrounding country, as the size and depth of the abutting fields are only to be seen through a breach in the mound, over a style, or through a gateway.

HORSES, MULES, &c

Besides the pack and the larger cart-horses, a small snug breed have been getting much in use, in different parts of the county.

These are out to grass all summer, and are generally wintered upon very coarse hay. When the day’s work is over in summer, which is performed in one journey of about eight or nine hours, they are returned to the field; and in winter they are racked up as before mentioned. But in the horse establishment at Ugbrook, the pleasurable and sporting horses, as well as those devoted to the labours of the farm, are under a very different system: for large quantities of fern being annually mown in the park, and neatly stacked up for use, the horses are kept constantly littered, winter and summer, with a bed of this fern or straw. In summer, tares, clover, or grass mown in the plantations, are given them, with regular stated feeds of dry meat, consisting of the chaff of corn, mixed with the chaff of wheat or barley, or cut hay and straw; an example happily followed by Lord Clifford’s tenants in general, where precept alone would have failed. The largest breeds of horses are generally found in the less hilly parts of this county. In the south and western parts, several mules and asses are constantly employed in packing sand, from the sea-side to the distance of several miles in the interior. Both the ass and the mule are extremely hardy and active; and the latter much more so than the horse.

BRIDGES

Not belonging to public roads, are generally kept in very good repair by the different parishes; the road-surveyor or way-warden of which, always takes care that the bridges shall be sufficiently numerous and safe, to ensure a convenient and ready passage through the country. And this is indispensably necessary in a county abounding with narrow vallies, and occasionally covered with a considerable depth of water, which frequently rises and falls in the course of a few hours.

WAGGONS, CARTS, &c

In the hilliest parts of the country, horses are used for packing lime, dung, and all other purposes for which wheel-carriages would be used upon a level and unbroken surface. A number of two-horse carts, carrying from 15 to 18 cwt. each, are in very common use, and one-horse carts, or butts, are also much used; they are made to tip up like tumbrils, and will hold about five seams, or from 10 to 12 bushels each. On low wheels, they are very convenient for loading large stones, or any heavy article. Here are also three-wheel butts, with barrow handles, drawn by one horse, and holding, level full, from five to six bushels.

Few winnowing-machines, excepting a common whisk or fly, are used in this county; and reaping hooks, with smooth edges, are generally preferred to sickles with sawed ones.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

A custom universally prevails, of heaping the fourth peck in measuring a bushel of wheat; and as the diameter of these peck-measures are very various, a difference in the measure of almost every farmer is the natural consequence. This evil, however, is frequently corrected by the common usage of selling wheat by the bag, or what is called two bushels. And as this bag must weigh seven score, this grain is in effect sold by weight in most markets of the county. This is not so generally the case in respect to oats or barley, in which the buyers depend more upon bulk than specific weight. Butter, with few exceptions, is 18 ounces to the pound, throughout the county.

MINERALS

The mineral productions of this county are, culm, copper, iron-stone, lead, limestone, ochre, umber, grout-stone, &c. Between Appledore and Wear-Gifford on the Torridge, 25 lime-kilns have been employed; which, when at work, have yielded 100 common measures of lime every 24 hours. There are two copper mines working in the vicinity of Tavistock; a lead mine on the west of the Tavy, in the parish of Beer Ferris, and some old stream works have been renewed in the parish of Plympton St. Mary’s. The copper mine at Buckland, has also been very successful. The fossil substance, called Bovey eoal, lies in several parallel seams, at the distance of six or eight feet from each other, to the depth of 60 feet. This is found in the valley near the western branch of the Bovey Tracey: it is sometimes taken up for fuel. This coal exhibits a series of gradations, from the most perfect ligneous texture, to a substance nearly approaching the character of pit-coal; and is found diffused in very small pieces through all the beds of potters-clay in the parishes of Teigngrace and King’s Teignton.

Great quantities of granite or moor-stone are found in different parts of the county, and particularly about Dartmoor.

The inflammable substance called Bovey coal, is found in the extensive level of Bovey Heathfield; its exterior parts, lying next to the clay, have a mixture of earth, and are generally of a dark brown, or chocolate colour. Much of the finer clays are found about Wear-Gifford, &c. Great quantities of pipe and potters’-clay are annually sent from Teignmouth to the potteries of London, Staffordshire, and other parts. The potteries at Bideford use a red clay brought from Fremington, and manufactured into coarse ware.

Some beautiful quartz crystals are found in the fissures of the rocks in Dartmoor; and good freestone in Salcombe, Branscombe, and Bere. The tin and copper mines were formerly more numerous than at present, especially about Tavistock, &c.; and the lead mines at Combe Martin were very productive of native silver: gold also was obtained, according to various grants, made in the reigns of Edward the Third and Richard the Second. Much limestone is also found near Chudleigh, Drew-Steignton, Sampson-Peverell, &c. and between Appledore and Wear-Gifford. Most beautiful marbles are procured at Chudleigh and Babbicombe, not inferior to those of Italy.

MANUFACTURES

The late war inflicted a considerable blow upon the manufactures of this county, in duroys, serges, and other light cloths, and which it has by no means recovered since the peace. Coarse beavers, however, are stiil manufactured at Barnstaple, &c. as well as druggets, and dyed scarlet, for the East Indies. The Barnstaple potteries consist mostly of dairy and kitchen utensils. A considerable trade in gloves is still carried on at Tiverton, though the woollen-cloth manufactures there, and at Great Torrington, have declined. Serges are made at Totness, Moreton Hampstead, Chafford, and other places; and the long ells of Devonshire are still known in the county. The activity of the iron and cordage works for the royal dock-yards, only ceased with the late peace. Silk and porcelain have been deemed the principal manufactures of this comity; but its productions from the mines, and its fisheries, are very considerable. A considerable quantity of yarn, as well as of laces, are also manufactured; the latter at Honiton, and in its vicinity. A china manufactory was also established at Plymouth about 1810.

Fishing-nets at Barnstaple are wove in a loom. From several of the ports in this county, a good trade has been carried on to Newfoundland, Ireland, the Mediterranean, and most of the ports in the Bristol Channel.

SCENERY

The high down that overhangs the church and village of Cadbury, is capped with an old circular fortification, called Cadbury-castle from the mounds of this enclosure, there is one of the richest and most extensive views in the county. The work consists of a deep ditch and rampart, enclosing about two acres of ground in the area.

The forest of Dartmoor rises with a bold and majestic grandeur over all the surrounding heights, which compose an extremely rough and broken region. The summit of this waste is divided by certain meets and bounds, from the commons belonging to the surrounding parishes, into an extended plain, and so much of this stupendous eminence as is called the Forest of Dartmoor; the extreme summit of which, from the level of the sea, is upwards of 2000 feet.

Its whole surface, including the rocks, consists of two kinds; a wet peaty moor, or vegetable mould, affording good pasturage for sheep and bullocks, and an inveterate swamp, absolutely inaccessible to the lightest and most active quadruped, that may safely traverse the sounder parts of the forest.

The bay which the river Dart forms at its mouth, is one of the most beautiful scenes on the coast; both the entrance of the Dart into it, and its exit to the sea, appear from many stations, closed up by the folding of the banks, so that the bay has frequently the form of a lake, only furnished with shipping instead of boats. Its banks are its great beauty; they consist of lofty wooded hills, shelving down in all directions.

The Rev. Mr. Warner, in his “Walk through the Western Counties,” observes, “Immediately in the front of Teignmouth, the broad interminable ocean spreads its ever-varying expanse. To the right, a river, wide and majestic, rolling its waters between gently rising and well wooded hills, stretches for several miles, and is terminated by the black sides and rocky summits of Dartmoor; and to the left, a long range of dark arenacious cliff presents itself, full of rocks and recesses, and finishing in a rocky crag, of a most grotesque and fantastic form.“

The banks of the river Teign are most peculiarly attractive. The wildness of the wood and rock, now washed by the Teign, now starting from the sides of the hill, seems the discriminating feature. To instance one of the wildests spot's near the village of Crockernwell, where the Teign runs at the base of the “Moving Rock,” we descend into the valley amidst vast masses of granite; and looking back, we see them as it were bursting asunder, and only prevented from falling by their chains of ivy. In other places, enormous ledges overshadowed by oaken foliage, appear like the ruins of a castle. This is particularly the case in the vicinity of the Cromlech—where the berry of the mountain-ash, here remarkably luxuriant, has a beautiful appearance from chasms of rock incrusted with pale moss. The eye reposes with pleasure on the richness of the woods of Whiddon, after contemplating precipices that seemed ribbed with iron, and follows the receding hills, wave after wave, till they are lost in azure. Much more of this fascinating kind of scenery so peculiar to Devonshire, will occur in the course of our Topographical Journeys.

SOCIETY AND MANNERS

As they relate to rustical affairs, are particularly distinguishable during the wheat harvest, when the wheat being ready to cut down, notice is given in the neighbourhood, that a reaping is to be performed on a particular day: as a farmer may be more or less liked in the village, on the morning of the day appointed, a gang, consisting of an indefinite number of men and women, assemble in the field, and the reaping commences after breakfast, which is seldom over till between eight and nine o’clock. This company is open for additional hands to drop in at any time before the twelfth hour, to partake of the frolic of the day. The dinner, consisting of the best meat and vegetables, is carried into the field between twelve and one, and distributed with copious draughts of ale and cider. At two, cutting and binding is resumed; and at five, what is called the drinkings, are taken into the field, accompanied with buns, cakes, &c. When all is over, about the close of the evening, a small sheaf is bound up and set upon the top of one of the ridges, when the reapers retiring to a certain distance, each throws his reap-hook at the sheaf, until one of them strikes it down. This achievement is accompanied with the utmost stretch and power of the voices of the company, uttering the words, we ha in! we ha in! The company afterwards retire to the farm-house to sup, after which, they make merry with ale and cider, to a late hour. At the same house, or that of a neighbouring farmer, a similar course is probably renewed between eight and nine o’clock on the following morning. The labourers thus employed, it must be observed, receive no wages, but instead of this, receive an invitation to the farmer’s home at Christmas, when open house is kept three or four days at least; and if the rudeness of the bear-garden is sometimes exhibited, the opulent, who can command their hours and means of gratification at pleasure, should not envy those of the rustic.

“Let not ambition mock their useful toil,

Their humble joys and destiny obscure,

Nor grandeur hear with a disdainful smile,

The short and simple annals of the poor.“

Cider is now from 3l. to 3l. 10s. per hogshead.

The brewing of what is called white ale, is almost exclusively confined to Kingsbridge. It is said to be made by mashing twenty gallons of malt with the same quantity of boiling water: after standing the usual time, the wort is drawn off; when six eggs, four pounds of flour, a quarter of a pound of salt, and a quart of grouty are beat up together and mixed with the rest, which after standing twelve hours, is put into a cask, and is ready for use the following day. This beverage is described as having a very intoxicating quality: but that it is of considerable antiquity, is plain from the terrier of the advowson of Dodsbrook, which expressly demands the tithe of white ale. The present worthy incumbent commutes this claim for half a guinea annually, from each house in the parish.

LEARNED AND EMINENT MEN, NEWSPAPERS, &c

A mere list of all the eminent natives of this county, would occupy much more room than a work of this kind would admit. The worthies of Devon, down to the commencement of the 18th century, were collected in a folio volume by the Rev. John Prince. The following are among the most celebrated names: Sir John Fortescue Aland, an able judge, born at Fortescue 1670, died 1746. —Rev. John Barcham, a learned antiquary, born at Exeter 1572, died 1642. —Gervase Barrington, a learned prelate, died 1610. —Archbishop Baldwin, who accompanied Richard the First to the Holy Land, and died there in 1191, was born at Exeter. —Henry de Bathe, a celebrated judge, died 1261. —Sir John Berry, a naval commander, born at Knowston 1635, was poisoned on board his ship at Portsmouth 1691. —Sir Thomas Bodley, an eminent patron of learning, and founder of the Bodleian Library at Oxfurd, was born at Exeter 1544, died 1612. —Thomas Brancker, a celebrated mathematician, born 1636, died 1676. —William Browne, a pastoral poet, born at Tavistock, died 1659. —John Burton, a divine, born at Wemworthy, died 1771. —Sir Simon Baskerville the rich, born at Exeter 1573, died 1641. —The eccentric Bampfylde Moore Carew was born at Bickley 1693, died 1770. —Rev. Dean Carpenter, noted for his skill in mathematics, horn at Hatherleigh, died 1635. —Lady Mary Chudleigh, an ingenious poetess of her time, born at Winsland 1656, died 1710. —John Churchill, the immortal Duke of Marlborough, who had no stain on his character but avarice, was born at Ashe in 1659, and died in a state of mental derangement at Windsor in 1722. —William Courtney, Archbishop of Canterbury, who condemned the reformer Wicklifle and his followers, was born in 1341, died 1396.-Mrs. Hannah Cowley, an ingenious dramatic writer, born at Tiverton 1733, died 1809. —John Davis the navigator, who discovered the streights bearing his name, was born at Sandridge, and was killed in an engagement with the Japanese, on the coast of Malacca, in 1605. —Sir Francis Drake, one of our most distinguished naval heroes, commanders, and circumnavigators, born near Tavistock 1545, died in the West Indies 1596. —John Dunning, Lord Ashburton, an eminent lawyer and statesman, born at Ashburton 1731, died 1783: he was frequently the unbought advocate of the poor and oppressed. —The Rev. Dr. James Forster, a dissenting clergyman, of uncommon oratorial abilities, born at Exeter 1697, died 1753.-Theophilus Gale, another learned dissenting divine, was born at King’s Teignton in 1628, died 1678.-John Gay, the poet, was born at Barnstaple in 1688. —Sir John Hawkins, a gallant admiral, born at Plymouth, and died off Porto Rico 1590. —John Hooker, a learned antiquary and chronicler, born at Exeter 1524, died 1601: his nephew Richard, called “The Judicious Hooker,” was born at Heavitree in 1553.-William Jackson, a musical composer, and ingenious writer and painter, born at Exeter 1730, died 1803. —John Jewel, a prelate, whose learning and abilities, at his time of day, were celebrated over all Europe, was born at Berry Narber, and died of a complaint brought on by intense study in 1571. —George Lavington, Bishop of Exeter, well known for his “Enthusiasm of Methodists and Papists compared,” was born at Heavitree 1683, died 1762. —Sir Walter Raleigh, the illustrious navigator and historian, was born at Budley 1522, and was most unjustly beheaded in 1617. —Dr. Benjamin Kennecott, one of the most learned and industrious biblical critics this country ever produced, was born at Totness, of which place his father was parish-clerk. —Dr. Edward Lye, divine, antiquary, and lexicographer, was also a native of Totness, and born in 1704. —Tristram Risdon, the faithful historian of his county, was born at Winscot 1580, died 1640: a new and very correct edition of his Chorographical Description of Devon was published at Plymouth in 1811, with an introductory view' of the county, and numerous additions. —John Shebbeare, M. D. a political writer of great abilities, born at Bideford, 1709, died 1788. —Dr. Thomas Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, historian and poet, born at Tallaton 1636, died 1713. —Rev. Dr. Thomas Yalden, a poet, born at Exeter 1671. —Rev. William Tasker, a poet and dramatic writer, born at Iddesleigh 1740, died 1800. —Thomas Rennel, a painter and poet, born at Chudleigh 1718, died 1788. —Rev. Simon Ockley, orientalist and historian, born at Exeter 1678, died 1720. These, and several others, are the subjects of “The Worthies of Devon,” down to the commencement of the 18th century, without including a number of ingenious artists, and naval and military characters, whose eminence will entitle them to be handed down to the latest posterity.

The weekly newspapers printed in this county, are, at Exeter, the Alfred, Flying Post, the Exeter Gazette, and the Western Luminary; —at Plymouth, the Telegraph, the Plymouth Gazette, and Plymouth Journal.