Barnstaple is situated on the east side of the river Taw, in a broad and fertile vale. It is a very ancient place, constituted a borough by King Athelstan, who built a castle here, near the confluence of the North Sea with the Taw, of which nothing remains, except a high artificial mount; and at the time of the Conquest, as appears from the Doomsday Survey, "there were forty burgesses within the borough, and nine without." There was, at the time of the dissolution of monasteries, a small priory here, the revenues of which were valued at 123l. 6s. 7d. per annum.

The corporation at present consists of a mayor, two bailiffs, two aldermen, twenty-two common council men, and other officers. Barnstaple sends two representatives to Parliament, elected by the members of the corporation and the common burgesses; the number of voters being about 260.

The privileges of the town were confirmed by a charter granted by James I.

"The woollen trade, when formerly carried on here with considerable spirit, threw a large sum of money into the town, and enabled its inhabitants to beautify it with many respectable houses. This trade has of late failed; but baize, silk stockings, and waistcoat manufactories, still give life to the place." Besides this source of wealth and population, the pleasing character of the country around, and the comparative cheapness of this part of England, have added to its inhabitants, by inducing many independent families to settle here entirely; a circumstance that renders Barnstaple by far the most genteel town in North Devon; it boasts indeed of some marks of a metropolis—balls every fortnight, and a regular theatre. A noble quay stretches along the river-side to a great length, terminated at one end by a handsome piazza; over the centre of which stands the statue of Queen Anne, with the following inscription:

anna.

INTEMERATAE FIDEI TESTIMONIVM ROBERTI ROLLE DE STEVENSTONE, AGRO DEVONIENSI, ARMIG.

1708.

The river Taw is of considerable breadth here, but very shallow, owing to the great and continual increase of sand, which, it is greatly to be feared, will in time entirely choak the port. Over the river is a handsome stone bridge of sixteen arches, very similar to that at Bideford, and probably built about the same time.

The grammar-school at Barnstaple has acquired much celebrity, for having been the place of the earlier education of several distinguished characters: it has been established upwards of three centuries.

Over the north gate there is a charity-school, for the education of the infant poor girls and boys.

There is a pleasant walk, on this side of the town next the river, called the Northern-Hay, between a double row of trees. The population of Barnstaple, according to the return under the late act, appears to amount to 5079 inhabitants.

From Barnstaple it is well worth the traveller’s pains to make an excursion to the forest of Exmoor; as it has been observed, the red deer, which probably were formerly dispersed over the whole island, have for many years past been confined to the north of Devon, and that part of Somersetshire that joins it, and are at present, with the exception of some stragglers, to be found only in the vicinity of Exmoor.

The forest of Exmoor, and the commons annexed to it, contain about 60, 000 acres of wild upland pasture, intersected by a few ravines and some boggy ground. Surrounding this tract lie the beautiful and extensive woods of Badgery, Culbourne, Horner, Dulverton, Hawkridge, North Molton, Bray, and Bretton, which are the resort of the deer. It is about sixty years ago since the first stag-hounds were kept in this county by Sir Thomas Ackland, grandfather of the present baronet: they were surrendered to him by the late Colonel Bassett, who kept them till the death of their former proprietor, when he gave them up to his son, who succeeded to his title and estates. The late Sir Thomas Ackland dying in the life-time of Colonel Bassett, he again resumed them, and kept them till his death, which happened in 1802; they were then kept a few years by John Worth, Esq. by subscription, who gave them up to the present Earl Fortescue, by whom they were delivered over, about three years ago, to Stucley Lucas, Esq. and they are again a subscription pack. These hounds stand about twenty-seven inches high, are fuller of bone and rather heavier than the generality of fox-hounds, and have much deeper tongues. They have been, however, occasionally crossed with foxhounds, particularly with those of Earl Fitzwilliam, when it was thought they were becoming slow and slack; and again with his late Majesty’s hounds, when, from the cross with the fox-hounds, they appeared to have too much dash; for it is essential to the stag-hounds that they should not carry a head in cover, lest they disturb fresh deer, and that when they come to water, they should not dash across the river for the scent on the other side, as fox-hounds do; but that they should try up and down the stream, which is the usual beat of a hunted deer.

Stag-hunting in this quarter commences about the 20th of August, and continues till the 20th of September, when the necks of the stags beginning to swell, the hounds are suffered to run hinds only, till the middle of the month of November, when the rivers being out and the water cold, they would be liable to be chilled, and are, therefore, then laid up till the middle of April, when hinds are again run for a month, and again about the 10th of August, to give the pack blood and wind, preparatory to stag-hunting. If the chase of the stag is not so exhilarating as that of the fox, nothing can be imagined more grand and noble. The hounds, considering the remote part of England in which they hunt, are tolerably well attended; they arrive at the cover-side usually about nine; intelligence having been obtained of a warrantable deer, that is of a deer of a proper age, to be killed, a couple or two of old hounds, according to the size of the cover, called tufters, are laid upon his slot, the pack being herled up, that is in couples, with a rope running through the ring of each pair, and tied by this to a gate, or put into some neighbouring barn or stable, till the deer is found; they are then uncoupled, led by the huntsman to the scent, and then laid on. If the deer is a light or a bold one, he frequently faces the moor, and crosses it to some of the covers on the other side, affording a gallop of from twelve to twenty miles, without a single obstacle to the pack. In this extended chase after so large an animal, and over so fine a scenting country, where no hound requires the assistance of another to enable him to carry scent, it must necessarily happen, as it is almost impossible that any two hounds should be so exactly matched in speed and bottom as to run together, that they should string and run mute. The ordinary rate of a stag-hound over this flat and open country being a mile in three minutes, no horses can keep pace with them, particularly when it is considered that they are frequently impeded by such ravines and deep grounds as present themselves upon Exmoor. The sportsmen then, having kept the hounds in view a considerable time, to ascertain the point to which the deer is making, and being guided by slow and cast-hounds, arrive at the water shortly after the pack, (to which the deer usually makes): he is generally killed there, after heating up and down frequently for an hour. It happens, however, that when an old or cowardly deer is found, instead of facing the moor, he often strings the long range of woods in its vicinity, where the stag-hounds, not being so capable of climbing hills and breaking thick fences as the fox-hounds, carry ahead like a pack of harriers, and are equally free of their fine, deep, mellow tongues.

This unique and princely diversion, however, is now on the wane. Exmoor has lately been disafforested by Act of Parliament. Ten thousand acres in the centre of this tract of land are enclosed by a high wall, which, although it is topped by the deer and hounds, presents an insurmountable barrier to the horsemen, who are often obliged to ride two or three miles to a gate, while the chase perhaps leads to a contrary direction; and what is still worse, as the country is better cultivated, the farmers are more sensible of the damage done by the deer, and kill them without mercy, so that in a very few years the race of these red deer will probably be extinct.

The men of the moors in Devonshire, and the adjacent county, being famous for wrestling, we may add to what has been said upon the subject, from the observations of old Carew, who in his quaint style remarked, "You shall hardly find an assembly of boys in Devon and Cornwall, where the most untowardly among them will not as readily give you a specimen of this exercise as you are to require it." Still, from the following description given by this old writer, it will appear that some change has taken place in the science itself in the present age; but the practice has not declined. "The two champions," says he, "step forth stripped, in their doublet and hosen, and untrussed, so that they may the better command the use of their limbs, and first shaking hands, in token of friendship, they fall presently to the effect of anger; each shewing how to take hold of the other to the best advantage, and to bear down the adverse party; whereon whosoever over-thrower his mate, in such sort that either his back, or the one shoulder and contrary heel doth touch the ground, is accounted to give the fall. If he be only endangered, and make a narrow escape, it is called a foyle. This pastime also hath its laws; for instance, of taking hold above the girdle; wearing a girdle to take hold by; playing three pulls for trial of the mastery; the fall-giver to be exempted from playing again with the taker, but bound to answer his successor. Silver prizes for this and other feats’ of activity used to be carried about the country, and set up at bride-ales; but time, or their abuse, hath worn them out of practice."

In the description of some late matches, it is observed, "the ring was formed in a field called the Marshes, to which kind of soil the showers that had previously fallen lent rather a cruel aid." When the narrator approached the ring, though the rain de-

scended rapidly, the people stood round unmoved. There was a large circle of wooden railing erected, forming the back to a single bench, and within this ring people were admitted, on paying threepence. The crowd being constrained to stand as near the rails as possible, an open space was thus kept for the competitors. After the rules had been read, a hat was hurled into the air, and immediately followed by another from the acceptor of the challenge: the wrestlers began immediately to prepare for the struggle. The first that stood in the midst of the ring, having stripped to the shirt, then put on a linen jacket, with a green cock worked on the back, which, it appears, was the customary garment; he was a young man of an appearance extremely prepossessing, his limbs being well grown and strongly set, yet rather slight; his body was easy and slim, yet peculiarly expressive of prowess. The fronts of his legs, from the knees to the ancle, were armed with thick carpeting, to protect him from the kicks of his antagonist. "Having," says the relator, "turned to a countryman near me, and inquired who the youth was?" "Who is that? "said the countryman, with a tone of surprise, accompanied by a look of profound pity—"why, one of the Canns, to be sure." Young Cann stood awhile in a calm and indifferent attitude, whilst his opponent ploughed his heavy way towards him.

This was a little bull-necked, thickset man, of prodigiously broad and weighty carriage, whose carpeted limbs resembled the bolsters of a sofa, and his throat was scarcely less inferior in size. Cann pledged him in beer or cider, and then giving the mug; to one of the umpires, he seized his opponent by the collar of his jacket, and received in return the tiger clutch of this formidable antagonist. Cann stood up nobly and watchfully, met every movement with a harder gripe of the jacket, receiving the kicks intended for him with an indifference quite astonishing to all possessors of knees and shin-bones. The short man stood low and far from Cann, sometimes leaning forward, as if he were on all-fours, and slipped and sprawled about like a cat in walnut-shells, and with the same extraordinary pertinacity for keeping his feet. This ungainly attitude was strongly contrasted by Cann’s upright muscular form towering above it, and following lion-like the crouching and shifting manoeuvres of the creature opposed to him. This display of skill and strength lasted five minutes; and such being the time limited for the single play, as it is termed, the parties were instantly separated by the two umpires. When a man has stood out two men and thrown one, he is set down as a double player, and is entitled to strive among the select on the second day for the prizes. Of course, all the Cann’s, the best men from the moors, and young Brockenden and Thorn from Dawlish, made themselves double players. The second morning was any thing but "rosy-fingered," and there was some slow and tedious contests for double players till very late in the afternoon, so that the grand contest did not commence till the moon arose, when the first shout from the master of the revels was, "The younger Cann, and Widdicomb of the moors." This was received with a low murmur and a deep interest, which almost smothered sound. The younger Cann was the stoutest of the brotherhood, finely formed and fair-haired. He stripped and accoutred himself immediately, his two brothers assisting in buckling his leg armour and fastening his jacket. The Cann’s were farmers, consisting of five brothers, all excellent wrestlers, though only three of them were present on this occasion. The popular feeling, it might be perceived, was painfully on Cann’s side. Widdicomb, the moor-man, was soon prepared for the conflict; he was a giant in size, and alter the cup had been pledged, the opponents seized each other with an iron grasp. Cain stood boldly but cautiously up, as conscious that he had much to do, and the moor-man opposed him resolutely. The struggle was immediate, and Cann, with one terrific wrench, threw his antagonist to the earth; but he fell so doubtfully on his shoulder, that it seemed uncertain whether he would have fallen on his back, or recover himself by rolling on his face, which by a sudden wrench he effected. In consequence of the slippery state of the grass, Cann now fell upon his knees, and the moor-man instantly hurled him on his back. All was uproar and confusion, but Cann was declared to have received a fall; though, as he did not seem to be convinced of the justice of his judges, it was with real pain of spirit that he pulled off his jacket. Young Brockenden followed next with another man from the moors, and he received a doubtful fall, which was much cavilled at; but which the judges, nevertheless, gave against him. It now grew late, and the clouds thickening round, the wrestling could scarcely be perceived: the relator left the spot, but he afterwards heard that the Cann’s retrieved the fame of the family. In the morning the awning and the scaffolding had vanished; the young fellows had separated, the Cann’s to their farms, and the others to the moors.

On the left of the road from Barnstaple to Ilfracomb there are several villas, beautifully situated upon the eastern bank of the Taw, within one, two, and three miles of Barnstaple. The road then passes over a very extensive common particularly bleak, and unsheltered by any sort of tree or hedge.

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BARNSTAPLE is a sub-port in North Devon of the Bristol district, and a municipal borough, head of a union, county court district and parish, in the North Western division of the county, Braunton hundred and petty sessional division, rural deanery and archdeaconry of Barnstaple and diocese of Exeter, 214 miles from London by London and South Western railway via Exeter, and 203 ¼ miles by Great Western railway via Taunton, 39 miles from Exeter, 75 by rail from Plymouth, 11 by road and 14 by rail from Ilfracombe, 9 from Bideford and 14 from Torrington, 44 ½ from Taunton, and 10 ¼ from South Molton by Great Western railway. Thera is a terminal station here of the Devon and Somerset branch of the Great Western system from Taunton, and a station on the branch of the South Western line from Yeoford Junction to Ilfracombe and Torrington: the railway stations are just without the town, the Great Western on the east and the London and South Western on the south: there is also a station for the latter on the quay called the “Town” station. A narrow gauge railway, 19 ½ miles in length, was opened for May 11th, 1898, between Barnstaple and Lynton. The town is pleasantly situated in a valley on the north bank of the river Taw, and is well built, with wide and cleanly street, lighted with gas by a private company from works in the Barbican, and is supplied with water from a stream rising above Chelfam bridge, in Shirwell parish; there are two reservoirs, one at Raleigh Park, in the parish of Pilton, the other at Pickards Down, Barnstaple.

Barnstaple bridge, generally supposed to have been erected about the 12th or 13th century, is a fine structure of 16 arches, and was widened in 1834: the maintenance and repair are provided for by many bequests made in trust for that purpose: the Bridge estates are managed by a body of trustees, and produce an annual income of £700.

Barnstaple is a Customs port, the limits being defined under 9 and 10 Vict. c. 102; the eastern boundary is a small stream running into the Bristol Channel at a place called “Glenthorne,” which divides the counties of Devon and Somerset, and is near the headland called the “Foreland” (being the western limits of the port of Bridgwater), and the limits of the port extend thence in a westerly direction along the coast of the county to the point of land called” Morte Point,” and thence in a direct line across Barnstaple and Bideford Bay to “Hartland Point,” and in a southerly and south-westerly direction along the coasts of Devon and Cornwall to Dazard Point, in the parish of St. Genny’s, in Cornwall (being the northern limit of the port of Padstow); seaward from low-water mark the aforesaid limits extend from a line drawn from Morte Point to Hartland Point and include both sides of the river Taw, and all other rivers, bays, harbours, creeks and pills within the aforesaid limits; Lundy island, in the Bristol Channel, and the sea surrounding to a distance of three miles from low-water mark form part of the said port of Barnstaple. The trade of the port is very small, the only import being timber from Norway, Sweden, Canada and U.S. America. The total imports for the year 1900 was £20,000. There is also a coasting trade in coal from South Wales and a little general merchandise from Ireland: the number of vessels cleared at Barnstaple in 1900 was 959, and the tonnage 54,932.

According to the official returns of the Navigation and Shipping of the United Kingdom for 1900, the number of sailing and steam vessels in the general coasting trade that entered the port of Barnstaple, including their repeated voyages, was 2,804 176,815 tons, the number cleared being 2,904 of 185,168 tonnage. In the trade between Great Britain and Ireland, 57 vessels only entered of 3,441 tonnage.

In the trade with British possessions and foreign countries, 12 vessels entered of 4,172 tons. The number of vessels registered under Part I. of the Merchant Shipping Act, 1894, as belonging to the port, 31 December, 1900, was 43 of 1,910 tonnage. Under Part IV. of the same Act, 21 fishing boats of 269 tons were registered as belonging to the port at the same date. These employed 49 men and boys.

As a borough it is of very early date, being so styled in Domesday, when there were 40 burgesses within the borough and 9 without; it appears to have received its first charter from King Athelstan, and others from Henry I., John, Henry VI., Mary and James I. by whose charter it continued to be governed until the passing of the Municipal Corporations Act, 1835 (5 and 6 William IV. c. 76): the body corporate is now styled the “Mayor, Aldermen and Burgesses of the Borough and Parish of Barnstaple,” and consists of a mayor, six aldermen and eighteen councillors: the town is divided for municipal purposes into two wards, North and South. The municipal borough includes Newport (formerly part of the parish of Bishop’s Tawton), a part of the parish of Pilton and Rolle’s Quay, which was added by the Boundaries Act (31 & 32 Vic. cap. 46). The borough has a commission of the peace and separate court of quarter sessions. Barnstaple returned two members to Parliament from the 23rd year of King Edward I. (1294—5) until the passing of the “Redistribution of Seats Act, 1885,” when the representation of the borough was merged into that of the county.

The parish church of SS. Peter and Paul, standing nearly in the centre of the town, is an ancient edifice of stone, in the Gothic style, consisting of chancel with aisles, nave, aisles, and a tower on the south side containing a clock and 8 bells, 3 of which are outside the tower: the stained east window was erected in 1854 and the west window was presented by the parishioners in remembrance of the recovery of the Prince of Wales from fever in December, 1871; there are also others to Mr. Lee R.A. and to R. Bremridge esq. formerly member of Parliament for the borough: amongst the numerous monuments is one erected in memory of his son by the Rev. W. Blake, the ejected incumbent during the Commonwealth; the reredos and other carved work is by Hems, of Exeter: there is a large and fine-toned organ, the gift of Sir George Amyand: attached to the church, was a parochial library, founded by John Doddridge esq. and now merged in that of the North Devon Athenaeum. The church was restored during the period 1866—82, at a cost of £4,000, under the direction of the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott R.A. and his son, and has sittings for about 900 people. The churchyard was levelled by Order in Council, July 13, 1869. The registers date from the year 1538, and are perfect, excepting during five years of the civil war. The living is a vicarage, yearly value £350, including £20 annually from Stanbury’s bequest, in the gift of the Earl of Wharncliffe, and held since 1889 by the Rev. Thomas Newton M.A., LL.D, of Trinity College, Dublin, and chaplain of Barnstaple Union.

Holy Trinity is an ecclesiastical parish, formed in 1846. The original church of the Holy Trinity, at the south end of the town, begun in 1843 and completed in 1847, was originally an edifice of stone in the Perpendicular style, from the designs of Mr. Mackintosh, architect: owing to a subsidence of the foundations, the chancel arch gave way, and the whole edifice being taken down, was re-erected on a somewhat different plan, after designs by Mr. W. White, of London, in 1867: the church now consists of apsidal chancel with south aisle, clerestoried nave of four bays, with narrow aisles, vestry and organ chamber, and an embattled tower on the south side 125 feet high with pinnacles and carved work by Hems, and containing 2 bells: five of the windows are stained, and there are 450 sittings. The register dates from the year 1847. The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £48, with residence, in the gift of the Bishop of Exeter, and held since 1901 by the Rev. Charles William Herbert Kenrick M.A. of Brasenose College, Oxford.

St. Mary Magdalene is an ecclesiastical parish, formed Sept. 14, 1844; the church, which is at the upper end of Bear street, is a building of stone erected in 1846, in the Early English style, from designs by Mr. B. Ferrey, architect, and consists of chancel, a nave with aisles and a tower on the south side, with spire 115 feet high, containing one bell: the chancel windows are stained; in 1896 the church was re-decorated and the seats altered at a cost of £150: there are 800 sittings. The register dates from the year 1846. The living is a vicarage, yearly value £164, without residence, in the alternate gift of the Crown and the Bishop of Exeter, and held since 1897 by the Rev. Edward John Windsor, of St. Bees.

The church of St. John the Baptist is an edifice of stone in the Gothic style, consisting of chancel, nave, north aisle, north porch and a turret at the north-east angle, containing one bell: the church was restored and enlarged in 1883 at a cost of £2,000, under the direction of Mr. George L. Abbott, architect, when a new open timbered roof was introduced, and in 1887 it was reseated by the Abbott family: there are 400 sittings. The register of baptisms dates from the year 1828, and of marriages from 1848. The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £250, with residence, in the gift of the Bishop of Exeter, and held since 1895 by the Rev. William Richards, of St. Aidan’s.

The Catholic Church, in Church street, dedicated to the Immaculate Conception, was erected in 1855, and is a building in the Norman style, consisting of chancel and nave: it will seat 300 persons, and has a priest’s residence attached.

The Reformed Episcopal Church, in Summerland street, erected in 1880, at a cost of £1,200, under the direction of Mr. W. C. Oliver, architect, of Barnstaple, is a building of white brick with Bath stone dressings, in the Early Pointed style, and consists of chancel, nave and south porch, and will seat 400 persons.

The Wesleyan chapel, in Boutport street, founded in 1811, is a building of freestone and granite, in the Early Decorated style, rebuilt and enlarged in 1868, at a cost of about £1,800, and will seat 800 persons. A lecture hall to seat 500 persons, together with Sunday schools and class-rooms, were added in 1885, at a cost of about £2,000. There is also a Wesleyan school chapel in Newport road, with sittings for 200 persons.

The Congregational chapel, in Cross street, originally founded in 1705, was rebuilt in 1870 on an enlarged scale in a Continental Gothic style, from designs by Messrs. R. D. Gould and Son, Barnstaple, at a cost of £2,600: it will seat 600 persons, and has registers of baptisms from 1701.

There is also a Baptist chapel in Boutport street, built in 1833, seating 800 persons, with Sunday school and residence adjoining, erected about 1870.

The Brethren have a place of worship in Grosvenor street, erected in 1840 and seating 400 persons.

The Bible Christian (or Thorne memorial) chapel, in Bear street, was erected in 1876, in the Early English style, from plans by Mr. W. C. Oliver, at a cost of £2,400: a further enlargement was made in 1891, at a cost of £2,027, and there are now sittings for 850 persons.

The Cemetery, in Bear street, is five acres in extent and contains two mortuary chapels, and is under the control of a burial board of 9 members.

The Guildhall, in High street, erected in 1826, is a well-built structure, containing a hall 49 feet by 28, a spacious council chamber, jury rooms and a police station and superintendent’s office beneath: the hall contains 30 fine portraits of members of the Corporation and other worthies of the town in 1738, painted by Thomas Hudson (1701—79), the draperies being finished by Sir Joshua Reynolds, who was then Hudson’s pupil. The municipal insignia include two maces, a silver oar and a mayor’s chain and badge. The maces, which form a pair, are of silver gilt and 30 inches in length; the heads are adorned with winged female figures, foliaged, and the national devices, crowned, and placed between the letters “C.R.” and are finished with a cresting of crosses and fleurs-de-lis; the flat top of each head displays the royal arms and the foot knop of the shaft those of the borough: the silver oar, 18 inches long, was presented by John Moule esq. mayor, 1780, and also bears the town arms: the mayor’s chain consists of plain links connected by small links; the badge exhibits the borough arms, “gules a triple-towered castle, argent.” The corporate and mayoral seals are of great interest; the earliest, known to have been applied to a deed of 1272, is of silver and bears the device of a swan and the legend, “Sigillum: Commune: Burgi: Bamastapolie;” the second, also of silver, exhibits a tower with portal between two turrets and a legend; the third, now in use, has a triple-towered castle, with legend, and dates from 1836; there are also two mayor’s seals, one dating from c. 1320 and the other from 1836, and a signet, a bridge-trust seal, late 14th century, and two court seals of the Stuart period. The other Corporation plate comprise three hanaps of silver gilt, respectively dated 1589, 1606 and 1620, two tankards, given by Thomas Horwood in 1676, and a punch bowl or monteith of silver and ladle given by Thomas Benson in 1745.

The quarter sessions and petty sessions for the borough are held in the Guildhall.

Barnstaple is the district registry for the High Court of Justice, and Bankruptcy and Admiralty district for the County Court districts of Barnstaple, South Molton, Bideford, Torrington and Holsworthy.

The Albert Clock tower, standing in the irregular open space at the entrance of the town from the bridge, called the Square, was erected by public subscription in memory of H.R.H, the Prince Consort (d. Dec. 14, 1861), and contains a clock with 4 illuminated dials: at the base is a drinking fountain in coloured marbles, with an inscription in encaustic letters. The Square was inclosed by a handsome ornamental iron railing in 1879, at the expense of C. S. Willshire esq. then mayor, and has been tastefully laid oat with walks, and a fountain constructed in the centre.

The Theatre, in The Strand, has been newly decorated, and will hold about 800 persons.

The North Devon Athenaeum, established in place of the Literary Institute, founded in 1845, now occupies premises at the Bridge end, purchased and presented by W. F. Rock esq. in 1888, and to be held in trust for ever. The institution has a library of 22,000 volumes, amongst which is a copy of the Bible in 140 languages: it is managed by a board of directors of 11 members, of which Earl Fortescue is president and C. E. Roberts Chanter esq. chairman.

The Assembly Rooms, in Boutport street, are well suited for balls and concerts, and will held 300 persons.

Barnstaple is the head quarters of the Royal North Devon Imperial Yeomanry (Hussars), and of the 4th Volunteer Battalion of the Devonshire Regiment.

Of the industries here, Messrs. Shapland and Petter Limited employ about 400 persons in their cabinet factories and steam saw mills, which adjoin the bridge and are connected by a private siding with the London and South Western railway. There is a large Nottingham lace mill in which Messrs. Miller Brothers Limited employ 200 hands, and there are also extensive tanneries, flour mills and potteries.

The New Market, in High street, comprises a lofty and well-ventilated arcaded hall, about 320 feet long and 70 feet wide, for vegetables and general produce, with an open ornamented roof in one span, and attached to the main building are corn and seed markets, with a music hall above capable of containing 1,000 persons: adjoining the main market are 33 butchers’ shops, with a covered walk in front, an avenue separating them from the vegetable market. The market is held on Tuesdays and Fridays for vegetables, and on Fridays only for corn and cattle.

A Fish Market was erected on the quay about 1873.

There are four banks, viz. the National Provincial Bank of England Limited, in High street; the Devon and Cornwall Banking Co. Limited, in the Square; Fox Fowler and Co. in Cross street; Wilts and Dorset Banking Co. Limited, in High street, and a branch of the Devon and Exeter Savings Bank, in Boutport street.

The cattle market is held on Friday. There are also monthly and great markets.

The annual fair commences on the first Wednesday preceding the 20th of September, and continues during three days. The cattle fair is held in the cattle market; the horse fair on the Quay, and the pleasure fair on the North Walk.

The early closing day here is Wednesday, at 2 p.m.

Two papers are published here, viz. the “North Devon Herald” and the “North Devon Journal.”

The Custom House is on the quay.

An extensive pile of buildings has been erected at the foot of the bridge by the Bridge trustees for professional chambers, offices and other purposes, including a large Bridge hall for public meetings and for the purposes of the County Court.

The Masonic Hall, decorated and arranged internally in a most complete manner, is approached through Queen Anne’s walk.

The North Devon Infirmary, a large and imposing building, surrounded by well laid-out grounds and situated near the Taw Vale parade, overlooking the river, was founded in 1825, and has been several times enlarged and remodelled from the designs of Mr. R. D. Gould, architect; a wing was added in 1862, and another in 1883, from a gift by the late Miss Basset, of Watermouth: large new reception rooms for out-patients have also been built near the lodge gates at the cost of the late Dr. R. Budd, and a children’s ward containing 12 cots was opened in 1896 at a cost of about £200. The infirmary is available for 85 patients, the annual expenditure being about £2,300; it is maintained entirely by voluntary contributions. The number of in-patients treated in 1900 was 654, and of out-patients 2,669.

The Barnstaple and North Devon Dispensary, Boutport street, was established in 1832.

Penrose’s Almshouses, in Lichdon street, founded in 1624 by John Penrose, a merchant of this town, consist of twenty dwellings for two inmates in each with a small garden plot attached to each dwelling: in connection with these almshouses are Mackrell’s gift of £1,955 19s. 9d. Consols; Fletcher’s of £263 17s.; Beaple's of £256 14s. 9d. Consols and rent of farm and house; Thomas Shephard Law’s gift in 1896 of £500 Consols for coals; Herbert Sharland’s in 1897 of £900; besides other smaller gifts. Paige’s Almshouse, in Church lane, has four dwellings for eight aged and infirm people. Horwood’s Almshouses, in Church lane, founded in 1674, comprise eight dwellings for sixteen persons, with small garden plot to each dwelling. Salem Almshouses, in Trinity street, built in 1834 by Charles Roberts esq. consist of twelve dwellings for twenty-four poor men and women. The incomes of these almshouses are also supplemented by various gifts. The other charities are Richard Beaple’s gift, in 1642, of a rent-charge of £16 18s.; Robert Appley’s gift, in 1594, of house property, now producing £32 yearly; Ephraim Skinner’s gift, in 1719, of land yielding £44 5s. yearly; Richard Cornish’s gift, in 1709, of land realising £14 12s. yearly; Adam Lugg’s gift, in 1622, of land now worth £23 yearly; and other small sums of £7 2s. yearly, which are distributed in bread, coal, money &c.

Alice Horwood, in 1659, “of her own accord founded and endowed a free school for twenty poor girls for ever;” the income, derived from land, Consols &c. is about £63 yearly; there is now no school building, but £50 is paid annually to St. Peter’s National school for the instruction given to thirty girls.

Here was once a Cluniac priory, founded in the 11th century by Joel Fitz Alured, and dedicated to SS. Peter, Paul and Mary Magdalen; the revenues were estimated at £123; there are now no remains.

Castle House, in the North Walk, the residence of William Philip Hiern esq. M.A., F.L.S., J.P. is supposed to stand upon the site of the ancient castle, a portion of the old walls forming part of the present edifice; in the grounds is a large mound covered with, trees, commonly called “The Tower,” which is supposed to have been the site of the keep.

The Corporation are lords of the manor of Barnstaple.

The area of the parish is 1,383 acres of land, 7 of water, 15 of tidal water and 7 of foreshore; rateable value, £39,775; the population of the entire parish, which includes Newport, in 1891 was 11,441 (including 173 in the workhouse and 46 in the infirmary), and the population of Pilton was 1,617.

The population of the borough in 1901 was 14,137.

The population of the ecclesiastical parishes in 1891 was:-SS. Peter and Paul (parish church), 3,200; Holy Trinity, 2,361; St. Mary Magdalene, 4,406.

Petty Sessions are held at the Bridge Hall every alternate Wednesday at 11 a.m..; at Town hall, Combmartin & the Town hall, Lynton, on the first Monday in every month at 12 alternately; & at the Town hall, Ilfracombe, on the third Monday in every month at, 10 a.m.. The following parishes comprise the petty sessional division of Braunton:-Arlington, Ashford, Atherington, Berrynarbor, Bishop’s Tawton, Bittadon, Bratton Fleming, Braunton, Brendon, Challacombe, Combmartin, Countisbury, East Down, Fremington, Georgeham, Goodleigh, Heanton Punchardon, Highbray, Horwood, Ilfracombe, Instow, Kentisbury, Landkey, Loxhore, Lynton, Martinhoe, Marwood, Morthoe, Newton Tracey, Parracombe, Pilton, Sherwell, Stoke Rivers, Swymbridge, Tawstock, Trentishoe & West Down.

BARNSTAPLE UNION

Board day, Friday at 2 p.m. at the Workhouse.

The union comprises-the following parishes, viz.:-Arlington, Ashford, Atherington, Barnstaple, Berrynarbor, Bishop’s Tawton, Bittadon, Bratton Fleming, Braunton, Brendon, Challacombe, Combmartin, Countisbury, East Down, Fremington, Georgeham, Goodleigh, Heanton Punchardon, Highbray, Horwood, Ilfracombe, Instow, Kentisbury, Landkey, Loxhore, Lynton, Martinhoe, Marwood, Morthoe, Newton Tracey, Parracombe, Pilton East, Pilton West, Sherwill, Stoke Rivers, Swimbridga, Tawstock, Trentishoe, West Down & Westleigh. The population of the union in 1891 was 41,368 & in 1901 was 42,079; area, 144,845 acres; rateable value in 1900, £192,942.

The Workhouse, in Alexandra road, is a large building of stone, for 327 inmates & contains both boys’ & girls’ schools; average attendance, 34.

IMPERIAL YEOMANRY

Royal North Devon (Hussars) (comprising A, B, C & D squadrons); head quarters & stores, Trinity street.

VOLUNTEERS

4th Volunteer Battalion Devonshire Regiment, comprising A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, K & L companies; head quarters, Castle street; Col. E. S. Walcot C.B. commanding; A. F. Seldon & G. Gorton, majors.

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of services

St. Peter’s Church, High street, Rev. Thomas Newton M.A., LL.D, vicar; 8 & 11 a.m..; 3.30 & 6.30 p.m.; & daily 8 a.m.. & 6 p.m.

Holy Trinity Church, Rev. C. W. H. Kenrick M.A. vicar; 8 & 11 a.m..; 3.30 & 6.30 p.m.; & daily 8 a.m.. & 6 p.m.

St. Mary Magdalen Church, Bear street, Rev. Edward John Windsor, vicar; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.

St. John the Baptist Church, Newport, Rev. William Richards, vicar; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.

Reformed Episcopal Church, Summerland street, Rev. John Thornberry; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Immaculate Conception Catholic, Church street, Trinity street, Rev. James Stephen Burns, priest; holy communion, 8 a.m..; mass, 10 a.m..; & evening service, sermon & benediction, 6.30 p.m.; daily mass, 8 a.m..; holidays of obligation, mass, 8.30 a.m.

Baptist, Boutport street, Rev. Frederick James Kirby; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Bible Christian, Bear street, Rev. John Luke & Rev. Richard J. Pollard; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 7.30 p.m.

Brethren, Grosvenor street, Rev. Robert C. Chapman, 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Congregational, Cross street, Rev. Chas. Watt Smyrk; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 7 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, Boutport street, Rev. Jn. Williams Brewer & Rev. Thomas Henry Love; Rev. Alfred Barber & Rev. George Packer Summerhays, supernumeraries; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7 p.m.

Salvation Army Barracks, Old Theatre lane; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.

SCHOOLS

The Grammar School, in the Churchyard, dates from the first quarter of the 14th century & was formerly a chantry chapel, dedicated to St. Anne; below the building is a crypt of considerable interest; the school was re-founded in 1549 by the Corporation & has an endowment of £13 yearly. At this school were educated Dr. Thomas Harding, Jesuit, & tutor to Lady Jane Grey, 1512—72; John Jewel D.D. bishop of Salisbury 1522—71; John Gay, the poet, who was a native of Barnstaple, 1688—1732; Samuel Musgrave M.D. physician & philologist, 1730—82, & Sir John Doddridge kt. Justice of the King’s Bench, April 22, 1613. The Corporation are the patrons.

Municipal Science & Art Schools, High street.

A School Board of 7 members was formed Feb. 25, 1871; George W. F. Brown, Square, clerk to the board; John Rice, Clifton terrace, attendance officer.

National (girls’), North walk, erected in 1880, for 192 children; average attendance, 126; (infants’) Churchyard, erected in 1895 for 174 children; average attendance, 149; the schools have an endowment of £50 a year from Alice Horwood’s charity.

Holy Trinity National, Trinity street (boys’), enlarged in 1894 for 200 children; average attendance, 179; (girls’ & infants’) Churchyard, enlarged in 1895 for 220 children; average attendance, 220.

St. Mary Magdalene National, Lower Maudlin street (mixed), erected in 1857, for 180 children; average attendance, 150; (infants’) for 180 children; average attendance, 126.

Newport National (mixed), South street, for 135 children; average attendance, 135; (infants’) Cyprus terrace, for 150 children; average attendance, 120.

Bluecoat, established in 1710, & rebuilt with master's house in 1844, at a cost of £2,317, & enlarged in 1880; the income, amounting to about £180 yearly, provides education for 75 boys, & 40 are clothed; for 200 children; average attendance, 145.

Catholic, Church street, erected in 1863, for 150 children; average attendance, 80.

Wesleyan Methodist, Reform street (mixed), erected in 1852, for 260 children; average attendance, 175; (infants’) for 150 children; average attendance, 77.

Plymouth Brethren, Grosvenor street (mixed & infants), for 200 children; average attendance, 120 boys & girls & 62 infants.