Bideford, anciently Renton-by-the-Ford, from whence the present name. It is a small sea-port town, situated on the Torridge, about two miles from Barnstaple Bay. The greatest part of the town is on the western side of the river, a small part on the east side: between both there is a communication, by means of a bridge of twenty-four arches, built by voluntary subscriptions raised in Devonshire and Cornwall, and since supported by the proceeds of lands vested by the Court of Chancery in trustees, who are the principal inhabitants of the place.

Neither the age of the church, or the name of its tutelar saint, are exactly known, though it is supposed to have been built about the same time with the bridge, in the fourteenth century. The original form of the former edifice was that of a proper cross; but repeated alterations and additions since the Reformation have considerably changed its figure. A plain square tower rises to the height of about 70 feet at its west end, containing six bells, which being so near the river, have a very harmonious sound. The treble has for its motto, "Peace and good neighbourhood and the tenor,

"I to the church the living call,

And to the grave I summon all."

The church has two aisles and three galleries, with two additional wings; there is also what is peculiar to churches in Devonshire and Cornwall, viz. a north aisle, appropriated to the purpose of a chapel or chantry; but which at the Reformation was divided into pews, generally for the family of the lord of the manor, or for the benefit of the minister. Since the year 1785, when the church received an additional wing, it has been large enough to accommodate 2000 persons.

The tower of Bideford-church, like many others in Devonshire, is a mark for vessels, especially those bound over the bar.

Among other improvements which have taken place, the erection of a new vestry-room has been mentioned as one of the best. The original vestry was the record-room of the town; upon its site five new seats or pews have been erected, and the new vestry-room was built upon a spot of ground taken out of a convenient part of the church-yard. On some of the walls and pew-doors of this church there are armorial bearings; many of these are quartered with other coats, but the greatest number have the Granville arms alone. The only monument which that family have in this church, is on the south side of the chancel, near the altar. It is a freestone table, upon which lies extended the statue of man in armour, with a dog, not as customary at the feet, but by his side.

There are but few sepulchral monuments here worthy of notice, excepting that in commemoration of John Strange, Esq., who died in 1646. This was placed so high after the alterations of 1785, that its inscription is indiscernible below. A little to the left of its former site, upon a small black marble tablet, is inscribed:

Neare the foot of this piller doth lye A mother deare, and her foure children bye.

In the church-yard there is but one grave-stone

commemorative of any remarkable person or circumstance, viz.

In memory of Henry, John, and Christopher Ravening, of this towne, Surgioue, 1646.

To whom God lends Fair winges to fley,

Our trust needs then in God must he.

Our age was young, our age but tender.

We were three Ravens That here be under.

Exett Morbis Dei.

Note George Forgitt, 1646,

In the diseuse died here.

It is remarkable, that not one of those persons is entered in the parish register of burials for that year; it is therefore probable, that many others were omitted in the same manner: of course, the real number that died of the plague, was much greater than the registered account.

There was formerly appended to the church of Bideford, what was called the Church-house, standing within the boundaries of the church-yard walls. In many places these church-houses were called, and still retain the name of bead-houses; and no doubt they were erected for the benefit of poor religious persons, who were to lead a devout life, to attend regularly the service of the church, particularly that of the chantry, and to offer up frequent prayers for the souls of the founders. These were called Beadsmen.

Mr. Watkins, author of An Essay towards a History of Bideford, observes, that "At the Reformation, these pious edifices, not being considered in the number of religious houses, generally speaking, were either appropriated to the service of the ministers of their respective parishes, or retained as alms-houses.

The house in question was used as an alms-house, and continued so till a very few years before 1792, when the lord of the manor (by what right was not generally understood) caused the principal materials to be removed for the repair of a mill belonging to him, and then leased out the premises to a house-carpenter. Mr. Watkins adds, "How the parish suffered this house to be taken away in this manner, without any inquiry, I cannot account for; but I am in hopes that an inquiry will even yet be instituted. "

It further appears, that the parish of Bideford was freed from several ecclesiastical exactions; for instance, tithing apples and pears had been paid by the conscience, or as they thought good, and not otherwise. For beans and peas eaten green, no tithing was paid; and the borough of Bideford, upon the death of any of the inhabitants, never paid any mortuaries or bequest to the pastor of the parish.

By the charity of numbers of pious and well-disposed people, it seems the poor of Bideford had been well provided for in the various bequests made from time to time, some of them for ever. But to use the words of the faithful historian before quoted, "the eternity of this donation, like many others, has long since ceased, "notwithstanding the executors and overseers were "prayed in God’s name, as they would answer it at the general judgment, not to neglect the performance of their duty. "Of two other charities Mr. Watkins observes, "It is much to be lamented, and raises an honest indignation in the philanthropic mind, to consider that both these pious and useful and pious donations have long since been totally lost. "Ex uno disce omnes.

Bideford has an ancient free grammar-school, a free-school, Sunday-schools, &c. A bank was opened here in November 1791.

The principal government is vested, by charter granted in 1610, in a mayor, seven aldermen, a recorder, and two burgesses. The mayor and recorder for the time being, and one of the aldermen, chosen by the rest of the corporation, are justices of the peace within the borough.

At present the coasting trade, and the import and export of coals and limestone, with some ship-building, constitute the chief business of the place. There are indeed great quantities of earthen-ware manufactured here, which is sent, both by sea and land, to all parts of the kingdom. Among the exports must also be mentioned oak-bark, of which great quantities are annually sent to Ireland and Scotland.

The market, which is held on Tuesday, is well supplied with corn and all sorts of provisions, at very moderate prices.

With respect to local advantages, few towns in England, and not one in the north of Devon, can challenge a superiority over this. Nothing, perhaps, can be more picturesque than the view above the bridge. Near the fording-place, a large wood rises from the side of the river to the summit of a high hill of a square pyramidal form; and at the bottom of that side fronting the town, is a beautiful small meadow, which is a perfectly natural amphitheatre, and verdant all the year round. This, with a large ancient house close by, gardens and fields in a high state of cultivation, forms a landscape worthy the attention of the eye of taste.

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BIDEFORD, i.e. By-the-Ford, is a municipal borough, market town and parish, on the river Torridge, and is the head of a petty sessional division, union and county court district, with a station in East-the-Water, on the Torrington branch of the London and South Western railway, 3 miles from Bideford bay, 9 south-west from Barnstaple, 6 north-west from Torrington, and 215 from London, in the North Western division of the county, hundred of Shebbear, rural deanery of Hartland, archdeaconry of Barnstaple and diocese of Exeter. Bideford was formerly a separate port, but was included January 20, 1882, under the Customs Consolidation Act of 1876, in that of Barnstaple.

The town is picturesquely seated at the foot of a hill, and is divided into two unequal proportions by the river Torridge, the larger portion being on the western bank of the river, over which is a noble bridge of 24 arches, 677 feet in length, erected by the Grenville family, the former owners of the manor: in 1865 it was widened 10 feet by adding foot-paths on each side, at an expense of £5,000. Vessels are able to sail up to the bridge, and facilities are provided for the discharge of their cargoes close by. The Bridge trust produces about £1,000 annually, and under a scheme of the Court of Chancery, the surplus, after provision has been made for the maintenance and repairs of the bridge, is to be applied to educational purposes.

A light railway from the quay at Bideford to Abbotsham Cliffs and Westward Ho. was opened in May, 1901, and is being worked by The British Electric Traction Co. Limited.

There is a steam packet communication between this place and Bristol twice a week. The town is lighted with gas, from works in East-the-Water, the property of a company. Water works, the property of the Corporation, were first erected in 1872, at a cost of £10,000, and additional works were constructed in 1893, at a cost of £7,500. The supply is obtained from rainfall of 300 acres collecting area. There are two reservoirs on Gammaton Moor, about 2 miles from the town, of a united capacity of 27 million gallons.

Bideford is a borough by prescription, at any rate from the time of the Conquest, and received a charter in 1573 from Queen Elizabeth, and later from James I. whose charter continued in force until the passing of the Municipal Corporations Act, 1835 (5 & 6 William IV. c. 76). The Corporation now consists of a mayor, twelve town councillors and four aldermen.

The borough has a commission of the peace and separate court of quarter sessions, and a police force. The “Local Government Act of 1858” was adopted here February 25, 1859.

The church of St. Mary is a fine building of local stone, in the Perpendicular style, consisting of chancel, nave, aisles, transept, north and south porches and a tower containing a clock and 8 bells, six of which date from 1772 and the fourth from 1810: there are several stained windows, including one to Lady Elizabeth (O’Bryen), wife of Sir George Stucley bart. d. 9 May, 1870: on the south side of the chancel is a monument to Sir Thomas Graynfyld (Grenville) knt. patron of this church, ob. 18 March, 1513, with effigy in armour, and on the tomb are shields of arms of Grenville, and Grenville impaling Gilbert, this knight having married Isabel, daughter of Otho Gilbert, of Compton Marldon: the chancel also retains a stone screen, and there is a fine Norman font, with cable moulding: the organ cost 500 guineas: the church, with the exception of the tower, was rebuilt in 1865: there are 1,280 sittings: the churchyard has been inclosed with iron railings and planted with shrubs, at a cost of £1,100, defrayed by public subscription. In the churchyard is a stone with an amusing epitaph in rhyme to Mary Sexton. The register dates from the year 1561. The living is a rectory, net yearly value £264, including 52 acres of glebe, with residence, in the gift of Lieut.-Col. Sir W. L. S. Stucley bart, and held since 1896 by the Rev. Thomas Newton Leeke M.A. Trinity College, Cambridge, and chaplain to Bideford union.

St. Peter’s church or chapel of ease at East-the-Water, erected in 1889, at a cost of £2,150, is a building of local stone in the Gothic style, consisting of chancel, nave and porch. A handsome iron screen with brass gates separates the chancel from the nave and all the fittings of the church are of a costly character: it will seat 300 persons.

The Catholic church of the Sacred Heart, in the North road, opened December 15, 1892, is a cruciform building of local stone, in the Gothic style, and will seat 100 persons.

The Bible Christian chapel, in Silver street, will seat 600 persons. The Wesleyan chapel, in Bridge street, will seat 1,200 people; the old Wesleyan chapel in Allhalland street, is now converted into class-rooms and a hall for religious instruction; the Baptist chapel, in Lower Gunstone, has 550 sittings: the Congregational chapel, in Bridgeland street, a fine building of local stone with Bath stone dressings, will seat 650. The Brethren have a meeting house in North road, and the Bethel Meeting Room is in Torrington street, East-the-Water.

There are two Cemeteries in the Old Town, one half the church ground and the remainder, with mortuary chapel, being known as “the old public cemetery”; no new graves can now be opened in either of these cemeteries.

A new general cemetery, on the Hartland road, and containing a caretaker’s house and shelter, was opened in 1890, at a; cost of £1,500, and is under the control of the Town Council, acting as burial board. The Church of England Cemetery, near the new Barnstaple road, East-the-Water, was opened in 1890; it is about 2 ½ acres in extent, and includes a handsome chapel.

The Town Hall is a structure in the Elizabethan style. The court of quarter sessions, the petty sessions for the borough and the county, and the sittings of the county court are held here.

The Corporation insignia include two pairs of silver maces; the earliest pair, dating from about 1573, are 12 ½ inches in length, the lower end of the stem and the grip being of iron; the heads are enriched with open work and a cresting of fleurs-de-lis; the other pair, made in the reign of Charles I. are 2 feet 3 inches long, and appear to have been originally of earlier date, the crowns being an addition of the Stuart period; the handles have two sets of scroll brackets: there are no hall marks on either pair, but the lesser maces date almost certainly from 1573, the date of the incorporation by Queen Elizabeth; there is also a silver oar, formerly belonging to the lord of the manor, and now to the corporation, as the present lords; it is 6 ½ inches long and quite plain; the mayor's chain consists of 24 links of gold, alternating with tablets for the names of successive mayors, and attached at either end to a medallion portrait of her late Majesty Queen Victoria in gold and enamel, placed between two maces; from this depends the badge, which displays the borough seal, within a wreath of laurel. There are also two seals, one of which is dated 1577, and another, quite modern; the ancient seal of the early 15th century is lost; the mayor wears a robe of crimson cloth, trimmed with sable.

The Bridge Hall, at the Bridge end, erected in 1882, from designs by W. R. Bryden esq. architect, at a cost of £4,300, defrayed from the funds of the Bridge estate, is a fine building of stone in the French Renaissance style, containing a free library of about 4,250 volumes, reading room, the Bridge Hall chambers and sundry other offices.

The Public Rooms, erected in 1871, in Bridgeland street, comprise a music hall, with orchestra, and will bold 700 persons.

The County Police Station in New Road was built in 1897, and contains quarters for a sergeant, one married and four single constables, and cells for three prisoners.

The Masonic Hall, in Bridgeland street, is used for the meetings of the Lodge of Benevolence, No. 489; and the premises of the Conservative Club are also in Bridgeland street.

The Market, erected in 1883—4 by the Corporation, and opened 15th April, 1884, is a building of red brick and terra cotta, from designs by Mr. J. Chudley, architect, of Newton Abbot, and was erected at a cost of about £3,000. The main entrance is in the east front, under a semi-circular archway, surmounted by a gable. At the ends of this front are the Fish Market and the Corn Exchange, each of which have an area of 38 ft. by 24 ft. and a height of 32 ft. On the north side is the butchery, with a covered way extending through it, and 24 shops, 12 on each side. On the west side is the pannier, covered by live gabled roofs, supported on hollow iron columns, and having an area of 10,500 superficial feet; it is also available during the winter months for volunteer drills.

The Cattle Market and Public Slaughter House were erected in 1898 by the Corporation, at a cost of about £3,000.

The Royal Hotel, which adjoins the railway station and overlooks the old bridge, was originally built in 1688 by one John Davie, and portions of the old structure Shave been retained in the modern work. The drawingroom, approached by a handsome oak staircase some 205 years old, has a fine ceiling, adorned with foliage and figures of cherubs, birds and snakes in high relief, and the walls are panelled to the ceiling with oak; in this room the Rev. Gharles Kingsley wrote a part of “Westward Ho.”

Bideford is the head quarters of the D squadron, Royal North Devon Imperial Yeomanry (Hussars), and of the E and H companies, 4th Volunteer Battalion Devonshire Regiment; the latter have a drill hall in Torridge hill.

At East-the-Water, near the bridge, is a marble bust of John Richard Pine-Coffin esq. J.P., D.L., A.C.C. of Portledge, erected by public subscription in 1893 as a tribute of esteem.

The town possesses 8 cannon, long used as mooring posts for vessels, but in 1889, on, the widening of the quay, they were taken up, and in 1896 a proposal was made to mount them. Subsequently, the guns were inspected by Capt. Enthoven R.E. a Government expert, sent down by the United Service Institution, who certified them to be guns of the late 16th century, and four out of five correspond in a remarkable degree with the authenticated guns at Inverary. It is therefore more than probable that in these guns Bideford possesses ordnance captured from the Spanish Armada. They are now mounted and placed in front of the new Technical School on the river bank.

The Post Office, in High street, was erected in 1886 from designs by Mr. G. Malam Wilson M.S.A. architect, of this town, and is in the old English Domestic style; the Inland Revenue office is in High street; and the Harbour Office on the Quay.

There is now no shipbuilding here, and the trade in timber and coal has diminished, but the prosperity of the town has greatly increased since 1883 by the rapid development of the cuff and collar manufactures: there are now (1901) about 800 persons, chiefly females, so employed; the principal factories being those of Vincent and Duncan, McBryde, Orr and Haswell and Frederick Cooper and Co., of London. Here also is the iron foundry of Messrs. Stephens and Martin, and there is also a small pottery, a tannery and a number of malting establishments. There are four banks and a savings bank.

A fair was formerly held here on February 14th, but now abandoned.

The market days are Tuesday and Saturday, the former being the principal one. A corn market is also held on Tuesday.

The early closing day is on Wednesday at 2 p.m.

The Infirmary and Dispensary, in Meddon street, erected from the designs of Mr. G. Malam Wilson M.S.A. architect, of this town, was opened 31st March, 1887, in commemoration of the Queen’s Jubilee, and was extended in 1895. The Infirmary is available for 22 patients: during the year 1900 607 out-patients and 339 in-patients were under treatment.

Charities amounting to £20 yearly are distributed in bread and money.

On an eminence above the bridge near East-the-Water are the remains of Chudleigh Fort, a small castellated building commanding the river approaches to the town: there was once another fort on the west side of the river, as well as one at Appledore: these were garrisoned for the Parliament, during the Civil War, by Major-General Chudleigh, but after the action fought at Torrington in 1643, and mentioned by Lord Clarendon, were surrendered to the Royalist commander, Colonel Digby, Sept. 3 in that year, and received a garrison of the King’s party.

Moreton is the seat of the Dowager Lady Stucley. The manor belongs to the Corporation of the town.

The area is 3,393 acres of land, 5 of water, 51 of tidal water and 122 of foreshore; rateable value, £20,541; the population of the parish and municipal borough in 1891 was 7,831, and in 1901 was 8,754, including 6 officers and 98 inmates in the union.

Parish Clerk, Lewis William Carpenter, 5 Victoria ter.

IMPERIAL YEOMANRY

Royal North Devon (Hussars): D Squadron. Capt. A. Scott Browne (late 16th Hussars), in command; Capt. W. R. North-Row, second in command.

VOLUNTEERS

4th Volunteer Battalion Devonshire Regiment: E & H Companies, Drill hall, Torridge hill. E Co. Captain A. McNeil Martin; H Co. Captain J. Paton; E. Black, drill instructor.

BIDEFORD UNION

Board day, alternate Tuesdays, at 2 p.m. at the Union Workhouse, Meddon street.

The union comprises the following parishes, viz.:-Abbotsham, Alwington, Bideford, Buckland Brewer, Bulkworthy, Clovelly, East Putford, Hartland, Landcross, Litlleham, Lundy Island, Monkleigh, Newton St. Petrock, Northam, Parkham, Welcombe, Woolfardisworthy. The population of the union in 1891 was 20,475, in 1901 was 20,615; area, 62,474 acres; rateable value in 1901, £67,120.

The Workhouse, a quadrangular building, with an open court-yard in the centre, is situated in Meddon street & is available for 200 inmates.

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of services

St. Mary's Church, Rev. Thomas Newton Leeke M.A. rector, & surrogate; Revs. Augustus Wm. Frederic de Spailier & Herbert Mark Johnson M.A. curates; 8 & 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; daily 8 a.m.. & 5.30 p.m.; Wed. & Fri. 11 a.m.

St. Peter’s Church, East-the-Water; 8 & 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. at 8.15 p.m.

Catholic Church of the Sacred Heart, Rev. Warren B. Middleton, incumbent; mass 11 a.m..; evening service, 6.30 p.m.; on holy days, mass & benediction at 10 a.m..; daily mass at 8 a.m.. in summer & 8.30 a.m.. in winter.

Congregational, Bridgeland street, Rev. George Warren, 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7 p.m.

Baptist, Gunstone street, Rev. Frank Durbin; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Mon. & Thur. 7.30 p.m.

Bible Christian, Silver street. Rev. William Hy. Alford & Rev. W. B. Reed, 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.; Mon. & Fri. 8 p.m.

Brethren Meeting Room, North road; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Mon. 7.30 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, Bridge street, Rev. Beniamin Chas. Barker & Rev. Joseph B. Nowell; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Belvoir Mission Hall, Belvoir road; 6.30 p.m.; Wed. & Sat. 7.30 p.m.

Bethel Room, Torrington st. East-the-Water; (various), 11 a.m.. 3.15 & 6.30 p.m.; Tue. & Fri. 7.30 p.m.

Salvation Army Barracks, Lower Meddon street, 11 a.m.. 3 & 6.30 p.m.; daily 7.30 p.m.

SCHOOLS

The Grammar School is supposed to be an ancient foundation, but there are no records relating to it earlier than the year 1625; it has been reorganised, & a body of governors appointed under a scheme of the Endowed Schools Commissioners. There are now six exhibitions arising from the Bridge Trust endowment. The school has classical & modern sides, & prepares for University, Univesrity Local, civil service & other public examinations. The scholars attend the Municipal Technical schools, free of charge. Scholarships awarded by the County Council for Devon are tenable in this school; Rev. John Faulkner M.A. of Trinity College, Dublin, headmaster.

The Municipal Science, Art & Technical Schools were established in 1875 in connection with the department of Science & Art, South Kensington & the Devon County Council. In 1896 premises were erected on the river hank, at a cost of about £2,265 (including furnishing), from designs by Mr. G. Malam Wilson M.S.A. architect of this town. The building is of red brick & consists of two floors, together with caretaker's apartments; on the first floor is a chemical laboratory for 16 students.

Edgehill Girls’ College is a denominational institution, with a distinctively religious basis, but in no sense sectarian. It is open to members of all religious persuasions. The Technical Education Committee of the Devon County Council appoint representatives on the governing body & maintain a certain oversight of the work.

A School Board of 7 members was formed January 16, 1871; Henry Russell Bazeley B.A. 28 Bridgeland st. clerk to the board; John S. Milsom, 1 Elmsleigh terrace, Clovelly, attendance officer.

Board, Coldharbour (boys), built in 1840, & enlarged in 1899, for 350 boys; average attendance, 290.

Board School, Old Town (girls), erected in 1846 & enlarged in 1893, for 270 children; average attendance, 230.

Board School, Old Town (infants), erected in 1846 & enlarged in 18913, for 300 children; average attendance, 300.

Board School, Torrington street, East-the-Water (infants), erected in 1874, for 256 children; average attendance, 140.

Church of England School, High street (girls), erected in 1871, for 207 children; average attendance, 145.

Church of England School, Honestone street (boys), erected in 1888, for 119 children; average attendance, 112.

Church of England School, Church path (infants), erected in 1883, for 207 children; average attendance, 180.