Ilfracomb is the most northerly town in Devonshire, in the hundred of Braunton, deriving its chief consequence from the peculiar situation and safety of its harbour; which is perhaps more indebted to nature than art for its particular advantages, the inner bason being almost wholly formed by the rocks which surround and defend it. Upon one of these rocks next the sea, rising nearly to a point, is erected a lighthouse, which has very much the appearance of a small church. "Along the side of the same rock, to the opening of the harbour, runs an artificial pier judiciously constructed, to prevent the accumulation of sand; so that, by the joint assistance of the natural barrier and this piece of masonry, ships of 230 tons burthen may ride completely land-locked, and of course perfectly safe from all violence of weather. Over the gate of the pier, a stone tablet, with the following inscription, informs us to whom the town is indebted for this valuable addition to its conveniences and advantages:

" This extensive Pier, built some years since by the munificence of the Bouchiers, Barons Fitz-Warine, Earls of Bath, and Vice-Admirals of the place, was, in the year 1760, partly rebuilt, lengthened, and enlarged, by Sir Bouchier Wray, Bart., the present lord and inheritor of this pier and manor."

A number of good houses, chiefly for the accommodation of strangers in the summer season, range along the side of the harbour, and the remainder of the town stretches for a mile in length to the westward of it. A pebbly shore in the same direction, affords a convenient walk for pedestrians.

Ilfracomb consists of one street, running from the sea-side to the church. It is one mile in length, and the houses are tolerably well built.

The church is a large edifice, and contains a handsome monument, erected at the national expence to the memory of Captain Bowen, who was killed in the attempt upon Teneriffe, under Lord Nelson. Ilfracomb is so conveniently situated, that vessels can run in here when they cannot make Bideford or Barnstaple; so that much of the port business is done here. This is a very convenient place for sea-bathing; and there are several coves and machines outside the pier for that purpose., On a summit near the bay, is a neat summer-house, from which there is a very beautiful prospect.

Ilfracomb, as a watering-place, has risen to an uncommon degree of celebrity within a few years past;

and as there are several genteel families in and about the town, it is a fashionable retreat during the summer months. To a good market, good inns, and convenient lodgings, may be added, a coach that goes two or three times a week to Barnstaple: and, besides the packets that go to Bristol, Swansea, and Milford, fast sailing skiffs maybe hired, for excursions to sea, at a short notice. The cabin-passengers in the packet from Ilfracomb to South Wales pay 10s. 6d.; the rest in proportion. The rides and walks about Ilfracomb are extremely picturesque, especially the Valley of Stones.

Ilfracomb is noted for maintaining constant lights for the direction of sailors. Packet-boats sail twice a week, every Monday and Thursday, across the Bristol Channel, from Ilfracomb to Swansea in Glamorganshire, and from Swansea to Ilfracomb every Wednesday and Saturday.

The coast, which extends from Ilfracomb to Linton, is peculiarly fatal to shipping. Such is the height and the precipitous form of the rocks, that few escape with life who have the misfortune to suffer shipwreck on them.

The Valley of Mort. or Morthal, five miles from Ilfracomb, is beautifully romantic. It affords a delightful ride of nearly two miles over the level beach of Wollacombe Sands, and presents an extensive view of a highly-cultivated country. Tradition affirms, that Sir William de Tracey, one of the murderers of Thomas a Becket, resided at Mort several years prior to his death. A large tomb in the church denotes that his remains lie there, though time has rendered the inscription illegible. This part of the coast of Devonshire has been less frequented than any other, and consequently has, till lately, been less known than other parts of the sea-shore; but it is not, on that account, less interesting. It is supposed to have derived its name from the French word Mort, or death, it having been too frequently fatal to mariners, and probably particularly so to French predatory invaders in former times.

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ILFRACOMBE is a watering-place, seaport, market town and parish, and has a terminal station on a branch from Barnstaple of the London and South Western railway, 226 miles from London and 221 by the Great Western railway, 11 north-west from Barnstaple, 53 ½ north-north-west from Exeter, 89 ½ from Plymouth and 103 from Bristol, in the North Western division of the county, Braunton hundred and petty sessional division, Barnstaple union and county court district, rural deanery and archdeaconry of Barnstaple, and diocese of Exeter. Ilfracombe possesses communication by Tail with all parts of the kingdom; the extension of the South Western line from Barnstaple to Ilfracombe was completed in July, 1874; and the Great Western Railway Co. obtained running powers over the South Western line from Barnstaple to Ilfracombe in 1887. Steam packets also ply during the season to Lynmouth for Lynton, Bristol, Padstow, Hayle and Swansea. This town, as a watering place, is of rising importance, the warmth, salubrity and equable character of its atmosphere rendering it a favourable resort for invalids and other visitors; the average winter temperature is 44° 75' or about one degree higher than that of Torquay, and its mean range 7° 8' as compared with 17° at Nice. The rate of mortality is very low, the average, including visitors, being 15 in 1,000, or 1 5—10th per cent.; it is sheltered by the eminence known as Capstone hill, 156 feet in height on the north shore, and Lantern hill, overlooking the harbour between the town and the Bristol channel. The town stands on a stratum of slate rock, intersected by veins of quartz at an angle of nearly 45°; hence the drainage is perfect, and in a few hours after heavy rains the town and walks become dry. It formerly consisted only of one irregular street, nearly a mile in length, but has in course of time been much altered and extended, and now contains many thoroughfares; terraces and detached villas have been built, chiefly for the convenience of visitors in the summer season, and around the Capstone walks have been constructed, thus from most points fine views of the coast, the Bristol Channel and the shores of Carmarthenshire can be obtained. The town was anciently a borough, with a mayor and bailiffs, but its municipal character has long been lost.

Under the provisions of the “Local Government Act, 1894” (56 and 57 Vict. c. 73), it is now governed by an Urban District Council of 15 members, in place of the Local Board constituted in 1851. Extensive works for water supply and drainage have been carried out, and the approaches to the town much improved, under the supervision of Mr. E. Appleton C.B. of Torquay; and in 1889 a reservoir, holding 50 millions of gallons, was constructed at a cost of £11,000, so as to afford a constant and ample supply.

The harbour is formed by a natural basin, surrounded and nearly enclosed by rocks; and at the entrance is a pier originally erected by the Bourchiers, Earls of Bath, Barons Fitz-Warine and vice-admirals of the place; it was lengthened, partly rebuilt and enlarged in 1760, by Sir Bourchier Wrey bart. M.P. then lord of the manor; in the year 1823 it sustained considerable damage, but was further enlarged and repaired by Sir Bourchier Wrey bart. D.C.L, his son, in 1824, and completed in 1829, by Sir Bourchier Palk Wrey bart. late lord of the manor: the harbour is tidal, and dues are payable from vessels entering; the anchorage is very secure. The late Sir Henry Bourchier Wrey bart. M.A., J.P. in 1870 obtained power for the improvements of the harbour; and further improvements were carried out in 1893; the quay widened from Britannia hotel to the Pier hotel, and a jetty completed from the back of the quay to Warp House point; a low-water jetty was constructed in 1873.

The ancient chapel of St. Nicholas (the patron saint of sailors), situated on the Lantern Rock, at the entrance to the harbour, at an elevation of about 100 feet above high-water mark, has been converted into a lighthouse.

The church of the Holy Trinity, standing on an eminence at the western extremity of the town, and protected by hills of considerable height from the north and south-west winds, is an ancient edifice of stone in the Norman, Transition and Decorated styles, with Perpendicular additions, and consists of chancel with aisles, nave, aisles, north and south porches and an embattled tower on the north side, with pinnacles and containing a clock and 8 bells: the chancel retains a Decorated piscina, and in the nave are some good corbels: there are several fine stained windows, and a tablet to Capt. Richard Bowen R.N. who fell at the attack on Teneriffe, under Nelson, 15 Feb. 1797; another, to Charles and Grace Cutcliffe. 1637, has a quaint inscription, forming a double acrostic: there are some remains of the rood loft stairs in the south wall: the church has been thoroughly restored and reseated, and has 1,200 sittings. The register dates from the year 1567. The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £700, including 3 acres of glebe, with residence, in the gift of the Bishop of Exeter, and held since 1887 by the Rev. Richard Martin M.A. of Corpus Christi college, Oxford, prebendary of Exeter, rural dean of Barnstaple and surrogate. The old Vicarage house, which comprised some portions of the Manor House of Camden’s time, one room having a roof of ribbed oak, was taken down and a new house erected in 1888 by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners.

SS. Philip and James is an ecclesiastical parish formed May 17, 1859: the church, which is at the lower part of the town close to the Capstone hill, was erected in 1856 from the designs of Mr. J. Hayward, of Exeter, and is a building of stone, in the Decorated style, consisting of chancel, nave, aisles, north porch, vestry and a massive tower on the north side, with spire and containing 6 bells, hung in 1876, at a cost of £1,000, when the church was also enlarged: in 1890, the Rev. W. Brigstock left £400 for the internal improvement of the church, and from this fund there was erected in 1890 a new pulpit of Devonshire marble and alabaster; brass communion rails and gas standards bossed with onyx have also been added. Thera are several stained windows; the west window being a memorial to W. H. Stone esq. by whom this church was partly built, and the church affords 673 sittings. The register dates from the year 1857. The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £92, with residence, in the gift of the Church Trust Fund, and held since 1883 by the Rev. Hanbury Barnes.

Christ Church, in Portland street, belonging to the Free Church of England, was erected in 1844, restored and reseated in 1878; it consists of chancel, nave and south aisle, with a gallery at the west end: the font is supposed to have been a Roman quern: this church will seat 500 persons.

The Catholic chapel in Runnacleave road, erected in 1893, and dedicated to Our Lady Star of the Sea, affords about 200 sittings.

The Wesleyan Methodist chapel, Wilder road, erected in 1899—1900, is a building of stone, and will seat 500 persons.

The Wesleyan chapel, Lee, erected in 1889, is a small edifice of brick with stone dressings, and will seat 80 persons.

The Congregational chapel, High street, erected, with schoolroom, in 1818, was enlarged in 1884, at a cost of over £3,000, and will seat 735 persons.

There is also a small Congregational chapel at Hele, with 70 sittings.

The Baptist chapel, High street, built in 1891 at a cost of about £3,500, is an edifice of stone, and has sittings for 550 persons.

The Brethren’s meeting room, in High street, affords 200 sittings.

The Bible Christians’ chapel, in Oxford grove, erected in 1873 as a public hall, at a cost of £2,000, and converted to its present purpose in 1891, is an edifice of brick, holding about 900 persons.

In the Braunton road there is a small cemetery of 3 acres, formed in 1854, at a cost of £400, and containing a mortuary chapel, built by the late Mr. Richard Bligh.

The Market Hall, in Market street and Avenue road, was erected in 1900—1 at a cost of £4,900, and is a large building of stone, let for dramatic entertainments &c. and seating 1,000 persons; attached are dressing rooms, lavatories &c.

The Town Hall and old Market House were built in 1862. The former, facing the High street, has a facade of Bath stone in the Classical style, and contains a public hall holding 300 persons, and on the first and ground floors the offices of the Urban District Council.

Petty sessions are for convenience held at the Town Hall.

The Ilfracombe Hotel, centrally situated close to the sea, within 50 yards of Capstone Hill parade and commanding beautiful land and sea views, was erected by a limited company in 1867 and enlarged in 1871; it is a building in the French Gothic style, elegantly furnished, and containing a lounge hall, added in 1892, library and reading, smoking and billiard rooms and a lift; the surrounding grounds, of five acres in extent, are laid out in a tasteful manner; every modern improvement has been adopted in the construction of the hotel, and it is, as far as practicable, fire-proof. Baths (fresh and salt), situated within the grounds and available to the public, were opened in 1880. The covered swimming bath is 160 feet long and 50 feet wide, and holds 178,000 gallons of sea water, which is entirely changed every 24 hours, and a constant flow of water is maintained by means of a powerful steam pump.

There are several other good hotels in the town, the chief of which are the Royal Clarence family and commercial, and the Runnacleave private hotel.

The Victoria Promenade, at the foot of the Capstone hill, erected in 1888 at a cost of £4,000, under the direction of Mr. W. H. Gould, then architect and surveyor to the local board, is a large building of iron and glass, 200 feet long and 35 feet wide, with three entrances, a central dome and a verandah in front; the interior, which contains an orchestra, is filled with graceful palms and climbing plants, and there are attached cloak and retiring rooms.

The Sailors’ Bethel and Coffee Room, on the quay, is well supplied with writing materials, newspapers, books &c.; the expenses are defrayed by voluntary contributions. There is also a lifeboat station and rocket apparatus at Capstone hill, from which telegraphic and telephonic communications are maintained to and from all stations round the coast.

“Our Boys’” Institute, in Ropery road, was established” in 1881, and comprises a reading room, gymnasium &c.; it is open daily during the winter months, and class instruction is given in wood carving and fret work.

Ilfracombe is the head quarters of the 10th Company of the 1st Devonshire Volunteer Artillery, Western Division Royal Garrison Artillery.

The Market House, in Market street, on the slope of a hill, is divided into two portions, for vegetables and other goods. The market is held weekly on Saturdays and Wednesdays in the season, and the annual market on the 1st Saturday after August 22nd; a fair was formerly held here on the 14th April, but this has become extinct.

The Early Closing day is on Thursday at 2 p.m.

Science and art classes in connection with Souths Kensington Museum are held in the National school, Church street, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays from October till May.

The Ilfracombe Choral Society holds its meetings at The Masonic Temple, Northfield road.

There are baths (fresh and salt) at the foot of Northfield and at the Ilfracombe hotel.

The Masonic Temple, Northfield road, was erected 1899.

The Ilfracombe and North Devon Constitutional Club, at 7 High street, comprises reading, billiard and smoking rooms, and a number of furnished apartments; there are now (1901) about 160 members; Mr. H. J. Macey, sec.

The Ilfracombe Liberal Association has premises at 4 Oxford grove, which are open to members every evening.

The Working Men’s Club occupies rooms at the Infants’ school, Church hill; daily and weekly papers, periodicals &c. are provided, and there is a library of over 300 vols.

The Tyrrell Cottage Hospital, in Home lane, founded in the year 1864 by Mrs. Tyrrell, for the poor of Ilfracombe, was rebuilt in 1868, and now contains 25 beds for inpatients. Charities producing £50 yearly are distributed to the poor.

The Ropery Meadow, adjoining the Capstone hill, an eminence from which fine views can be obtained, purchased by the Board of Health for a sum of £2,203, is now used as a recreation ground, and paths and numerous covered seats have been made and added on and around the hill.

The Cairn, a public pleasure ground, situated about a quarter of a mile south of the railway station and adjacent to the line, consists chiefly of Tough hilly land covered with furze and brake, and in area about 9 acres, the highest point being about 500 feet above the sea, or three times as high as the “Capstone”; walks have been formed, giving easy access to the summit and to many secluded nooks in the rocks which cover the side of the hill; convenient seats have also been placed at various spots, from which fine views of the neighbourhood and the Bristol Channel may be obtained. A large portion of the land on Cairn side is now planted with pinus austriaca and Scotch fir, and the walks are bordered with rhododendrons and laurels.

Commander Sir Robert Bourchier Sherard Wrey bart. is lord of the manor.

The chief landowners are C. B. M. Drake-Cutcliffe esq. of Lee Manor, Miss Down, Mrs. Basset, Miss Wren, the trustees of Barnstaple Charity school, and M. C. Copner, George Blundell Longstaffe esq. M.D. and the Charity Commisioners; there are also several small freeholders.

The parish consists of 5,623 acres of land, 4 of water, 2 of tidal water and 228 of foreshore; rateable value, £51,569; the population in 1881 was 6,253; in 1891 it was 7,692; and in 1901 was 8,557. The population of the ecclesiastical parishes in 1891 was:-Holy Trinity (parish church), 5,295; SS. Philip and James, 2,168; Lee, 282.

Petty Sessions are held at the Town hall, Ilfracombe, the third Monday in each month, at 10 a.m..; Bridge hall, Barnstaple, every alternate Wednesday at 11 o’clock; & at the Town hall, Combmartin & Town hall, Lynton the first Monday in every month at 12 alternately, except during the months of August & September, when the Sessions are held the last Monday in the preceding months.

The following places comprise the petty sessional division of Braunton:-Arlington, Ashford, Atherington, Berrynarbor, Bittadon, Bishopstawton, Bratton Fleming, Braunton, Brendon, Challacombe, Combmartin, Countisbury, Down (east), Down (west), Fremington, Georgeham, Goodleigh, Heanton Punchardon, Highbray, Horwood, Ilfracombe, Instow, Kentisbury, Lankey, Loxhore, Lynton, Martinhoe, Marwood, Morthoe, Newton Tracey, Parracombe, Pilton, Sherwell, Stoke Rivers, Swymbridge, Tawstock, Trentishoe.

VOLUNTEERS

1st Devonshire Volunteer Artillery, Western Division Royal Garrison Artillery (No. 10 Company), Head Quarters, Armoury, Drill Hall, Cow lane; Capt. W. J. Harper; Rev. Robert Edward Gotto M.A. acting chaplain; Wm. John Hartop, sergt.-mojor R.A. instructor.

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of services

Holy Trinity Church, Church street, Rev. Prebendary Richard Martin M.A. vicar, & surrogate; Rev. H. Frank Nesbitt M.A., Rev. Arthur E. Robinson M.A., Rev. Henry E. Munby M.A., Rev. J. S. Martin B.A. curates; 8 & 11 a.m.. & 3.30 & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 8 & 11 a.m.. & 8 p.m.; other days, 8 a.m.. & 6 p.m.

SS. Philip & James Church, St. James’ place, Rev. Hanbury Barnes, vicar; Rev. T. A. Hanson, curate; holy communion, 8 a.m.. & 1st, 3rd & 5th Sundays at 12.30 p.m.; 2nd & 4th Sundays in the evening; morning prayer 11 a.m.. & evening prayer 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7 p.m.; Fri. morning prayer & litany 11 a.m.

St. Peter’s (Iron) Church, Highfield road, served from the Parish church; holy communion, 8 a.m..; matins, 11 a.m..; evensong, 6.30 p.m.

St. Matthew, Lee, Rev. William Fisher McMichael M.A. vicar; 11 a.m.. & 3 & 6.30 p.m.; saints’ days 9 a.m.

Our Lady Star of the Sea, Catholic, Runnacleave road. Rev. H. W. Bromley, priest; holy communion, 8.30 & mass, 10.30 a.m..; compline & benediction, 6.30 p.m.; daily mass, during summer months, 8 & 8.30 a.m.. winter months; Thur. rosary & benediction, 4.30 p.m.; confessions, Sat. 4 to 5 p.m.

Free Church (Christ Church), Portland street, Rev. Fredk. Geo. Walker; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Baptist, High street, Rev. Thos. Philpot; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Mon. & Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Congregational, High street, Rev. John Stephens D.D.; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; weds. 7.30 p.m.

Congregational, Hele, 6.30 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, Wilder road; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Tue. 7 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, Lee; 3 & 6.30 p.m.

Brethren, Meeting Room, Assembly Hall, High street; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Tue.& Fri. 7 p.m.

Bible Christian, Oxford grove, Rev. Charles Stediford; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 7.30 p.m.

SCHOOLS

Holy Trinity, National (boys), built in 1883, for 150 & enlarged in 1895 for 218 boys; average attendance, 159; (girls), over boys’, for 182 girls; average attendance, 146; (infants), built in 1862, for 194 children; average attendance, 176.

SS. Philip & James’ National, erected in 1860 & enlarged in 1878, for 250 children; average attendance, 80 boys, 68 girls & 80 infants; the site was purchased by subscription & the cost defrayed by the late R. Bligh esq.

St. Matthew's Church School, Lee (mixed), erected in 1860, for 48 children; average attendance, 34.

National, Hele (in the parish of SS. Philip & James) (mixed), built in 1865, for 50 children; average attendance, 36.

National, Slade (infants), built in 1887, for 50 children; average attendance, 20.

British, The Hermitage, High street (mixed), opened in 1901 for 228 boys & girls; average attendance, 150.

British, Fore street (infants), erected in 1863, for 172 children; average attendance, 50 infants.