PAIGNTON is a watering-place, town and parish, and the head of a petty sessional division with a station on the Dartmouth and Torbay branch of the South Devon section of the Great Western railway, constructed in 1859, and is delightfully situated along the shore of Torbay, midway between Torquay and Brixham, 2 ¾ miles south-south-west from Torquay, 5 ¼ north-west from Brixham, 6 east from Totnes and 228 from London, in the Torquay division of the county, hundred of Haytor, union and county court district of Totnes, rural deanery of Ipplepen, archdeaconry of Totnes and diocese of Exeter. The town has risen into notice as a place of resort for invalids on account of the salubrity of its air and its adaptability as a watering-place, the beach affording a fine expanse of firm sand, 1 mile in extent, with an ample supply of bathing machines. There is a promenade pier, 780 feet in length, and at the head an oblong space 146 by 53 feet, on which are constructed a pavilion, refreshment, yacht club and other rooms; the pierhead is also provided with a landing stage: during the summer season concerts and other entertainments are given in the pavilion daily.

The “Local Government Act, 1858’’ (21 and 22 Vict, c. 98), was adopted July 28, 1863, but under the provisions of the Act of 1894 (56 and 57 Vict. c. 73) the parish is now governed by an Urban District Council of 12 members. The district abounds in extensive orchards, and is celebrated for its cider, of which great quantities are sent to the London, Bristol and other markets. Paignton is supplied with water of excellent quality by the Urban District Council by means of gravitation from the Blagdon valleys; the reservoirs have a capacity of eleven million gallons, but new water works are now (1901) in course of construction to supplement the present supply from Dartmoor, at an estimated cost of £70,000. The Paignton gas works are the property of a company formed in 1861; there are two gasometers, each capable of containing 50,000 feet of gas. The parish church of St. John the Baptist is a fine and ancient cruciform building of stone, chiefly Perpendicular, with remains of Norman, and Early English work, including a fine Norman west door, and consists of chancel, nave, aisles, two chapels with a piscina in each, transepts (formerly used as chapels), south porch, and an embattled western tower with pinnacles, containing a clock and 6 bells; the 1st dates from 1737; the 2nd and 5th 1805; the 3rd and 4th were cast in 1748, and the 6th in 1641: the chancel has sedilia reconstructed from portions discovered during the restoration, and there is an ancient stone pulpit, elaborately adorned with carved foliage, the figure of our Lord on the Cross, other figures, and curious coloured devices: the font, an ancient work, is of Purbeck marble, and there is an organ, erected at a cost of £2,000 by Paris Singer esq.: the south transept, or Kirkham chapel, retains a very fine but mutilated stone screen of Perpendicular work, erected by the Kirkhams of Blagdon about 1530; it is richly adorned with tabernacle work and figures in canopied niches, and has a central doorway and two side arches with pendents, and on large canopies above them are angels holding shields; within the two compartments of the screen are four recumbent effigies, c. 1450—1550, supposed to represent members of the Kirkham family; one of these, a knight in armour, has round the neck a double chain with pendent cross; two others are ladies in flowing dresses and mantles; near this chapel were interred the heart and viscera of John Snellin, “rear admiral of Holland and West Friesland,” ob. August 23, 1691, and on the wall is an inscription recording the fact, and a shield of arms: in the north aisle of the church is a monument with a cadaver, apparently of the 14th century, but without inscription: the doors and stair to the rood loft remain, but the screens have disappeared: there are memorial windows to the late Rev. R. Gee, formerly vicar, d. 1861; to Elizabeth and Robert Farwell; Rev. T. G. Hall, and members of his family; Diana Dudman; Bessie, the wife of D. J. Jenkins esq. late M.P. for Falmouth; Eleanor Holdsworth; Captain Dick R.N. d. 1871; to James Lyde, d. 1844, and Anne, his wife, d. 1860, and James, their son, d. 1877; and to Mary, wife of the Rev. F. W. Poland, late vicar: the chancel was restored by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners in 1864, since which date the whole structure has been restored under the direction of the late Mr. Ewan Christian, architect, of London: the roofs of the chancel and tower have been decorated: there are 900 sittings. The churchyard contains the steps and shaft of the ancient churchyard cross, the arms and head of which were restored in 1895 by the contributions of the children attending the church. The registers date from the year 1559, and a list of all the vicars from 1260 is preserved in the church. The living is a vicarage, with the chapelry of Marldon annexed, joint net yearly value (nominally) £400, with residence, in the gift of the Earl of Iddesleigh and J. G. E. Templer esq. the former having one turn and the latter two turns, and held since 1892 by the Rev. John Trelawny Ross D.D. of Trinity College, Dublin, rural dean of Ipplepen, and surrogate. St. Andrew’s church in the Sands road, erected in 1893—7, at an estimated cost of about £8,000, is a building of local red rock, with Box ground stone dressings externally, and Hamhill stone dressings internally, in the French Gothic style of the 14th century, from designs by Messrs. Fulford, Tait and Harvey, architects, of Exeter, and consists of chancel, with side chapel and vestries, nave and tower: the flooring of the chancel is laid in marble mosaic, and that of the sanctuary in Devonshire marble: the pulpit of marble, richly carved, was executed by Hems, of Exeter: the roofs of the chancel and chapel are of oak, and that of the tower has groined stone vaulting.

Christ Church is an ecclesiastical parish formed in 1889 from the civil parish of Paignton; the church, erected in 1886—8, at a cost of £7,088, is a cruciform building of sandstone in the Early English style, consisting at present only of apsidal chancel, transepts, nave and narthex porch: the lectern consists of a brass eagle, with hand-wrought plumage, perched on a block of rough-hewn Dartmoor granite, on a base of polished material of the same kind: there are sittings for 750 persons. The register dates from the year 1888. The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £230, in the gift of the Peache trustees, and held since 1888 by the Rev. Theodore Cameron Wilson; Mrs. Disney Robinson, having given half the endowment, had the first right of presentation. The Betah Congregational church, erected in 1875—6, from designs by G. S. Bridgman, at a cost of £2,475, is a building of stone with a tower, and has attached Sunday schools: the chapel affords 650 sittings. The Baptist chapel, erected in 1882, is in Winner street, and will seat 250 persons; the site, valued at £200, was presented by the late Miss Tozer. The Wesleyan Methodist chapel, in Palace avenue, was erected in 1895—6, and will seat 200 persons. The Brethren have a preaching room in Gerston place, erected in 1888, and seating 200 persons. The Salvation Army Barracks are in Princes street. The Cemetery, at Collyend, was formed in 1881, at a cost of £1,000; it has now an area of about 2 acres, an addition of 2 acres being made in 1901, at a further cost of £1,300: there are two chapels, and the cemetery is under the control of the Urban District Council, acting as the Burial Board. At St. Mary’s Hill (late The Quarry) is the Novitiate of the Marist Fathers, established in 1881, for the training of missionary students for the Catholic Church missions in England, Ireland, America and New Zealand. The Catholic church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, erected in 1883—4, from designs by the Rev. Father de Rosier, is a building of red local stone with white brick dressings in the Decorated style, consisting of chancel and nave, and a porch at the north-east angle: at the east end is a statue of the Virgin. This is now used as a private church only, the church of “The Sacred Heart of Jesus,” situate at Colley End, being the public church for the catholics of Paignton.

The Town Hall, in New street, built in 1869—70, is a building of local stone, and comprises a court-room, in which petty sessions and the meetings of the Urban District Council are held; bi-monthly meetings of the County Court are now held here, instead of at Churston as formerly; here also are the Urban District Council offices. The Masonic Hall, in Courtland road, is a plain building of stone, erected in 1892. The police station, in Palace avenue, erected in 1897, at a cost of about £4,000, comprises court room for magistrates’ meetings, ceils, and apartments for the local staff. The Public Hall in Palace avenue, erected in 1890, is a building of local dressed stone with sittings for 800 persons, and is used for dramatic entertainments and concerts. The new buildings of the Young Men’s Christian Association, in Palace avenue, erected in 1893 at a cost of about £2,000, comprise reading rooms, a gymnasium and other rooms, and are also used as a seaside home for young men recovering from illness. The School of Science and Art, in New-street, formerly the Temperance Hall, was built in 1882—3 at a cost of about £400, and subsequently enlarged. The principal hotels are the Esplanade hotel, which stands in its own grounds facing the sea, the Gerston hotel, adjoining the Railway station, and the Commercial hotel, Dartmouth road. At the Crown and Anchor hotel, now pulled down, Prince William of Orange-Nassau, afterwards William III. slept on the second night of his landing in Tor Bay, November 6, 1688. The Paignton Club, established in 1881, is a building in the Classic style, relieved in front by six columns supporting a balcony, from which is obtained an excellent view of Tor Bay: it is a social and non-political institution, to which visitors are admitted by introduction as temporary members. The early closing day is on Wednesday. The Cottage Hospital in the “Crofts,” erected and endowed by Messrs. A. M. and W. M. G. Singer, contains 11 beds. New recreation grounds, including a pavilion and grand stand, were completed in 1901 by the Urban District Council, at a cost of about £10,000; they adjoin the Torbay road, and are laid out for cricket, tennis, football and bowls. Among the charitable bequests are Peter’s gift of 20s.; Kelly’s gift of 6s.8d. yearly for the poor; and Matthew Neck’s of £4, left in 1709, to be divided at Christmas between 20 poor people; 20s. left by Thomas Butland in 1725, and 20s. left by John Gardner in 1751, are for the purpose of buying Bibles for poor children; William Furneaux, in 1720, bequeathed 20s. annually for poor persons having no parish pay, Moggridge’s charity is of 27s. annually; the principal charity is Belfield’s gift, left in 1800, and consisting of the proceeds arising from £1,000 Consols, formerly applied by trustees to the endowment of a school for 20 poor children, but now granted in the form of exhibitions to deserving children, who have attended the public elementary schools in the town. With the exception of Butland’s bequest, administered by executors, and Gardner’s and Moggridge’s, administered by the vicar and churchwardens, these charities are consolidated and administered by feoffees.

Oldway, a mansion of white brick with Portland stone dressings, in the Classic style, standing in a small tastefully laid out park commanding a splendid view of Tor Bay and surrounding country, was erected at enormous expense by the late I. M. Singer esq. and comprises a large and richly-decorated drawing room, 86 feet by 30, and a theatre seating 300 guests: the entrance porch is inclosed by a conservatory reaching a height of over 60 feet; the house is now occupied by Paris E. Singer esq. Redcliff Towers, built by the late Col. R. Smith C.B. and now the property of P. E. Singer esq. is a mansion of singular appearance, principally in the Oriental style, and consists of a massive round tower, with two wings; it is situated on the shore of Tor Bay and commands a good view of the bay, Torquay, Berry Head and Brixham, at present (1901) unoccupied. Paignton was held at an early period by the Bishops of Exeter, who had a palace here, the remains of which are still standing near the church and are surrounded by a crenellated wall, which is a prominent object on approaching the town from the south: the chief feature is the south-east tower, a work of the 14th century, restored and made habitable a few years ago by Col. Ridgway, of Shepleigh Court, who then held the property, and commonly known as the “Bible Tower,” from the fact that Bishop Myles Coverdale, consecrated in 1551, and whose translation of the Bible into English had been published in 1536, was the last Bishop to occupy the tower as a residence, previous to its being dismantled. Major John Harlowe-Turner J.P. is the present owner. H. Conway Belfield esq. Robert Butland esq. the Rev. J. W. Distin, the trustees of the late Arthur Hydo Dendy, George Hutchings esq. Washington G. M. Singer esq. John Trist-Bailey esq. The Rev. James Lyde Hunt, of Dartmouth, Mrs. Jackson, and Mrs. Leaman, are the principal landowners. The parish contains 5,175 acres of land and 134 of foreshore; rateable value, £46,200; the population of the civil parish and urban district in 1881 was 4,610, and in 1891, 6,783. and of the ecclesiastical parishes: viz. Paignton, 5,961; Christ Church, 983.

Petty Sessions are held on alternate Fridays at the Police Court, Paignton & Court room, Brixham at 11 a.m.

The following parishes are included in the petty sessional division: Brixham, Churston Ferrers, Kingswear, Marldon, Paignton & Stoke Gabriel.

VOLUNTEERS

Devonshire (1st) Volunteer Brigade, Western Division, Royal Garrison Artillery (9th Co.), Drill hall, Public hall; Capt. & Hon. Major R. D. Anderson; Rev. H. T. Pinchin B.A. & Rev. J. T. Ross D.D. acting chaplains; Sergt.-Major Charles Pratley, drill instructor.

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of services

St. John the Baptist (parish church), Church street, Rev. John Trelawny Ross D.D. vicar; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; week days, 8 & 10 a.m.. & 5 p.m.

St. Andrew’s Church, Sands Road, Rev. Shepley Stancliffe Smith M.A. curate in charge; 8 & 10.45 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; week days, 8 & 11 a.m.. & 8 p.m.

Christ Church, Rev. Theodore Cameron Wilson, vicar; 11 a.m.. & 3.15 & 6.30 p.m.; Friday, 8 p.m.

St. Michael’s Mission Room, Elmbank road; 6.30 p.m.

Catholic Church of Immaculate Conception (private), St. Mary’s hill, Very Rev. James H. Mulkern (superior.)

Catholic Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Colley End, Very Rev. James H. Mulkern (superior), Rev. Julian Gresle & Rev. Joseph Boyle; mass, Sundays, 8 & 10.30 a.m..; catechism & benediction, 3 p.m. & rosary, sermon & benediction, 6.30 p.m.; holidays of obligation, mass, 8 & 10.30 a.m..; rosary & benediction, 6.45 p.m.; week days, mass, 8 a.m.

Congregational (Betah), Dartmouth road, Rev. Charies Waring; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Tue. 7.45 p.m.

Baptist, Winner street, Rev. D. Deighton Bennett B.A.; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Tue. 7.30 p.m.

Bible Christian, Chapel street, Rev. D. Watkins; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Tue. & Thur. 8 p.m.

Bible Christian, Preston; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Mon. 7.30 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, Union street. (Torquay Circuit), Rev. E. Sholl Richards; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Tue. 7 p.m.; Fri. 8 p.m.

Brethren, Gerston place; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. & Fri. 7.30 p.m.

SCHOOLS

A School Board of seven members was formed January 29th, 1874; Horace Parnell, 5 Torbay road, clerk to the board; R. S. Cooksley, 4 Palace pl. attendance officr.

Board, Polsham road, for 200 children; average attendance, 100.

Grosvenor (Board), Curledga street (boys), built in 1886, for 320 children; average attendance, 310.

Board (girls), Curiedge street, erected in 1898, for 390 children; average attendance, 380.

Board, Curledge street (infants), erected in 1876, for 400 children; average attendance, 220.

Catholic, Colley end, erected in 1889, for 91 children; average attendance, 83.

School of Science & Art (in connection with South Kensington), New street; Onesimus Smart Bartlett, chairman; Arthur G. Wallis, art master; Charles W. Priestley, science master.