Sidmouth, of late years become a fashionable watering-place, is about 159 miles from London, situated between two romantic Alpine hills at the mouth of the little river Sid, in a bay between Exmouth and Lyme Regis. It has a bold open shore, and many of its newest houses are ranged upon the beach, which is defended from the attacks of the ocean by a natural rampart of pebbles rising in four or five successive stages from the surface of the sea at low water. With every tide, the exterior parts of this shifting wall assume a different situation; are sunk either higher or lower, are driven to the east or the west, according to the strength or direction of the wind. At low water considerable spaces of fine hard sand are visible; these afford a pleasant walk, but are frequently interrupted by collections of stones, and streams that find their way through the pebbles to their parent ocean: in dry weather, however, these streams are very inconsiderable. At the head of this shingly rampart, a broad and commodious walk, called the Beach, furnishes a delightful promenade. It is nearly a third of a mile in length, is kept well rolled, and furnished at the extremities and some other parts with convenient double seats, from which either the land or the sea may be contemplated with every advantage. Close to the walk, and about the middle of it, is a tolerably spacious covered retreat, called The Shed, in which, as it is benched all round, and open only to the sea, a most striking view of that sublime object may at all times be obtained. Large parties are frequently chatting in this recess; and the weak invalid here finds a spot in which, defended from every wind but the salubrious south, he can inhale those breezes, which so frequently suspend the ravage of disease, pour fresh oil into the lamp of life, and send him back a renovated being.

"As a watering-place," says the author of Sidmouth Scenery, (a descriptive sketch of the place, published, with numerous engravings, by J. Wallis at the Marine Library), "Sidmouth, in its natural advantages, yields to none, and exceeds many of those retreats of Hygeia, which utility and fashion have found out, on almost all the coasts of our island; an air mild and salubrious; a soil uncommonly fertile; the purest water continually flowing; and a situation defended from every wind but the south, give it a pre-eminence over most of those places on our coasts, which are now so generally resorted to, both for health and amusement. "The number of houses in Sidmouth is about 480; and, according to the census taken by order of Parliament in 1821, the number of inhabitants were 2747. Sidmonth is the winter residence of many invalids; Dr. Matthews is the resident physician, with several experienced and able surgeons and apothecaries.

There are three capital inns here—The London, the New Inn, and the York Hotel. The assembly and card-rooms are at the London Inn, and are large, and well fitted up. The rooms are opened for cards every night, and during the season, there is a ball every Wednesday.

The New Inn is upon a smaller scale than the other two. At the London Inn and the York Hotel, postchaises are to be had. Wines, porter, and liquors of all sorts are to be had, not only at the inns, but at several vaults, and shops in the town. Provisions are plentiful and good, and the supply, except in the article of fish, very regular. Saturdays and Tuesdays are the market-days, but butchers reside in the town; and poultry, eggs, &c. are brought by the country people to the doors of the inhabitants. Vegetables and fruit are furnished by the gardeners of the place. Lodgings are numerous, scattered in every part of the town and its vicinity; but various in price and accommodations.

The York Hotel, the two public libraries, Wallis’s and Marsh’s, the billiard-room, and two sets of excellent warm and cold baths, are all upon the beach, at the western end of which are the bathing-machines, and an excellent spot for those bathers who do not choose to make use of them.

Two or three gentlemen in the commission of the peace, are residents, and, on the first Monday in every month, a justice’s meeting is held at the London Inn. There is, also, an association for the protection of property against poachers, and other depredators.

There are two fairs in the year, one on Easter Monday, and the other, which is the principal, on the third Monday in September: neither of them are fairs of business. A very excellent course for horse-racing has been recently formed upon Salcombe-hill, the eastern boundary of Sidmouth, and races are held upon it, in the month of August.

The post-office is in Fore-street. The letters are delivered every morning about nine o’clock. Letters must be put into the office by half after six in the evening; by paying a penny, however, with each letter, they are received till seven o’clock, when the bag is closed. A coach runs daily to and from Honiton; it leaves Sidmouth in time to meet, at Honiton, the Bath and London coaches; it leaves Honiton every evening at half past six, and arrives at Sidmouth between eight and nine. A coach runs to and from Exeter, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; it leaves Sidmouth at seven

in the morning, and returns before nine in the evening. On the same days there are two carriers, to and from Exeter.

Pleasure-boats, sedan, and Bath-chairs, horses, gigs, and donkies, are all to be had upon reasonable terms.

At both the libraries, the oldest of which is Wallis’s, several London and provincial newspapers, as well as reviews and magazines, are taken in, and an extensive assortment of books, trinkets, and fancy articles, are constantly on sale. At Marsh’s library there is also a new handsome assembly-room.

Except the billiard, card, and assembly-rooms, Sidmouth has no place of public amusement. A theatre has been twice attempted, but has in both cases failed. The last effort was made in the autumn of 1813.

The church, supposed to be about 400 years old, is a neat edifice, with a handsome tower, a clock, and five bells: it is well pewed, has a newly erected convenient gallery, an organ, and several mural monuments.

There are also two Dissenting meetings; the old one belonging to the Unitarians, and one erected for the Calvinists; at the latter place a Sunday-school is supported. A school, which has a commodious school- house, was instituted in 1812 for educating poor children, according to Dr. Bell’s plan.

In 1814 a Bible Society was formed at Sidmouth; these have now become common almost in every town and village in the county.

In 1815 The Humane, or Poors’ Friend Society, was instituted.

Among the number of single houses that embellish the vicinity of Sidmouth, are those of Emmanuel Baruh Lousada, and George Cornish, Esqrs.: the former is a neat object on the western declivity, and the latter is equally interesting on the eastern slope.

From the grounds of Peck-house the spectator has a fine view of the ocean, the white cliffs of Charmouth and Bridport, and the bold promontory of Portland; and from Salcombe-hill an excellent nearer view of the town, the little bay in which it is secluded, the deep-ribbed side of the high peak, the western wing of the ever memorable Torbay, and the Start-point, which appears plunging into the distant waves, and beginning the line of demarcation betwixt the sky and the land. The most extensive land view is to be had from the eastern or Salcombe-hill, the eye taking in a distance of forty miles, and resting its farthest ken upon the most elevated points of Dartmoor. To this eastern hill, which rises abruptly from the river, there is a walk which, to overcome the steepness of the ascent, takes a zigzag form with very acute angles. At its foot a bridge is thrown across the river, which brings the passenger very near the beach. This path has altogether a Swiss-like, Alpine appearance. On the highest part of the Peak, which is the name of the western hill, is the signal-house erected during the late war, and which appears to the spectator below like an eagle’s nest perched upon a rock. This, since the peace, has of course been shut up. The Fort-field is so called from a little fort with a flag-staff, and mounted with four pieces of cannon, which command the beach and the bay.

In the rocks and lanes about Sidmouth the naturalist may find materials for study and amusement; the botanist may cull his plants, and the collector of fossils, find many of the curious internal productions of the earth. Beautiful photens are here to be met with, and the stones of the cliffs often abound with echiuae marina, petrified coral, and other similar productions. The cornu ammonis is to be found here of all sizes; and a person in the town has one in the common rounded form of an embellished metallic appearance about eighteen inches in diameter, which he found in the cliffs near Portland. In the little basins worn by the waves in the rocks, elegant corallines abound; and not unfrequently that singular production of nature, the animal flower, commonly called the sea-anemone.

Salcombe, or the salt vale, now called Salcombe Regis, is a small parish, the lofty hill of which forms the eastern boundary of Sidmouth. Several newly erected houses lie in and near Sid or Seed-lane, through which the road passes from Sidmouth to Lyme Knowl, the property and residence of the Woolcots, and Stade-house, belonging to W. Leigh, Esq. are among the older mansions of this parish. The church is an ancient and small structure.

Branscombe lies on the east of Salcombe. The lofty hills which defend this parish from the sea, are in many parts paralleled at a small distance by inland hills, abounding with orchards, hanging woods, and enclosures covered with grass and grain. About the middle of this peaceful Tempe, stands Branscombe- church, the tinkling bell of which, when it floats through the vale, suggests the idea of some lonely convent, that at stated periods calls the scattered inhabitants of an Alpine village to their unostentatious devotions. Three vallies, forming an irregular triangle, meet near the church. Through each of these vallies rapid streams descend, which, uniting in the bottom, flow on together to the ocean. Weston-house, belonging to J. Bartlet Stuckey, Esq. was built by the late John Stuckey, Esq., and stands near Weston-mouth, but has no view of the sea. Branscombe-church, which is larger than St. Peter's at Salcombe, is dedicated to St. Winifred, who is supposed to have been a native of Devonshire.

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SIDMOUTH is a fashionable watering place on the south coast of Devonshire, and parish and market town at the mouth of the small river Sid, 170 males by road and 167 ¾ by rail from London, 15 east-south-east from Exeter, 6 south-by-east from Ottery St. Mary, 9 south-south-west from Honiton, 11 north-east from Exmouth, 16 west-by-south from Lyme Regis and 15 south-west from Axminster, in the Eastern division of the county, hundred of East Budleigh, petty sessional division of Ottery, union and county court district of Honiton, rural deanery of Ottery, and archdeaconry and diocese of Exeter. The railway station is the terminus of a branch, constructed in 1873, from Sidmouth Junction of the London and South Western railway.

Sidmouth is pleasantly situated at the lower end of a beautiful vale, and is sheltered on the east, west and north by ranges of hills, which are cultivated to their summits. On the south it commands an extensive view of the sea, and lies at the bottom of a deep and almost semicircular hollow on the coast, sometimes called the “Western Bay.” From the top of Peake or Salcombe Hills, 500 feet in height, the view extends to 28 or 30 miles; Hope’s Nose, on this side of Torbay, is 18 miles from Sidmouth; Berry Head is 22. The nearest point of the French coast, Cape La Hogue, near Cherbourg, is go miles distant. The climate is mild and equable, but by no means relaxing. According to tables published by Dr. Mackenzie F.M.S. the temperature is some four degrees warmer in the winter months than London, and proportionately cooler in summer: it is the driest of the Devonshire watering places, and has, according to Mr. Pengelly F.R.S. 26 per cent, less rainfall, and less rain on each rainy day, than any other place in Devonshire. The sunshine records, kept and published annually by Dr. Oliver, prove Sidmouth to be one of the sunniest places in the British Isles. The highly picturesque scenery of the neighbourhood and the facilities afforded for sea-bathing have Tendered this a fashionable and much frequented watering place.

Sidmouth was formerly a place of more importance than at present, and in the 13th century was a borough and market town, governed by a portreeve; long subsequent to that period it had an important fishery and a good harbour, but the latter does not now exist. The erection of a strong sea-wall, which affords an agreeable promenade of nearly half a mile in length, was commenced in 1835 and completed in 1838, under the superintendence of G. H. Julian esq. architect, of Exeter, at a cost of about £2,500, of which a sum of £1,200 was given by the late lord of the manor.

The town is governed by an Urban District Council of 9 members, formed under the provisions of the “Local Government Act, 1894” (56 and 57 Vict. c. 73), which takes the place of the Local Board, established May 12, 1863, under the Act of 1858. It is lighted with gas, and supplied with pure soft water from the works of the Sidmouth Water Company, established under a special Act of Parliament, promoted by the owner of the manor. The works were built from plans by Mr. Edward Wood C.E. of Westminster. A thorough and complete system of drainage was carried out in 1897 from plans prepared by Mr. James Mansergh, of London, at a cost of about £10,000.

Sidmouth gives the title of viscount (1805) to the Addington family.

The parish church of St. Nicholas, an edifice of stone, originally in the Perpendicular style, was rebuilt, with the exception of the tower, in 1860, under the direction of Mr. William White, architect, and now consists of chancel, with aisles, clerestoried nave of four bays, aisles, transepts, north and south porches and a western embattled tower with four pinnacles, containing a clock and 8 bells: in the church are memorials to James Currie M.D. (1756—1805) author of a life of Robert Burns: the stained west window was presented by Her late Majesty Queen Victoria in 1866, as a memorial to her father, the late Duke of Kent, who died here 23rd January, 1820, and chiefly illustrates Christian charity as exemplified by Our Lord; the east window was given by the Earl of Buckinghamshire in 1860; there are 16 other stained windows and a fine reredos, erected in 1866: there are about 1,000 sittings. The register dates from the year 1589. The living is a vicarage, net yearly income £290, including 24 acres of glebe, with residence, in the gift of trustees, and held since 1865 by the Rev. Henry George John Clements M.A. of Christ Church, Oxford, and surrogate.

All Saints’ church, erected in 1837, at the north end of the town, and consecrated 30th April, 1840, is a building of stone in the Early English style, and consists of apsidal chancel, nave and transepts, and a belfry above the gable of the north transept containing one bell: there are 596 sittings. The living is a perpetual curacy, net yearly value £173, in the gift of three trustees, and held since 1895 by the Rev. John Leathley Nightingale M.A. of Emanuel College, Cambridge. Connected with this church is an iron mission hall, erected in 1884, with sittings for 230 persons.

Here is the Catholic Convent of the Assumption; the Rev. Norbert Jones, priest.

The Congregational chapel, in Chapel street, erected about 1853, was greatly improved in 1892, and affords sittings for 360 persons. The old chapel, in Eastern Town, built in 1813, is now used as schools. The Unitarian chapel, in High street, erected in 1710, will seat about 200. The Wesleyan Methodist chapel, in High street, erected in 1884, at a cost of £1,845, is a building of Babbacombe stone, with Bath stone facings, in the Gothic style, and will seat 300 persons.

The Cemetery, in Landpart, opened in January, 1879, at a cost of £3,000, is over 3 acres in extent, and has two mortuary chapels: it is under the control of a Burial Board.

In 1839 an Act was passed for building a market-house and granting the market dues to the lord of the manor. The lower part of the Market Hall, erected in 1843, is used for the purposes of the market, which, however, had become extinct, but in 1901 steps were taken to enforce the observance of the Act, and the market has accordingly been revived. Markets are held every Thursday and Saturday, and fairs for cattle on Easter Monday and the third Monday in September.

The early closing day is on Thursday.

“The Manor Hall, ’’ a concert hall and theatre, erected about 1893 by Capt. and Hon. Maj. J. E. H. Balfour, of the Manor, will seat 500 persons, it, has a lecture hall attached, and is licensed for stage plays.

The Masonic Hall, High street, erected in 1890, is an edifice of red and white brick, with upper and lower rooms, and a caretaker’s residence at the back. The “Perseverance” Lodge, No. 164, meets here on the first Wednesday in each month. The Sidmouth Literary and Debating Society occupy the lower room.

The Volunteer Drill Hall, at the Salcombe end of the Esplanade, erected in 1895 on a site given by the late J. George G. Radford, is a neat edifice of red brick, and has on the ground floor a drill hall, 60 by 32 feet, with a clock over the entrance, above is a smaller hall, and the building also includes an ante-room, and an armoury. The hall is licensed for stage plays.

The Sidmouth Baths, in the centre of the Esplanade, and adjoining the Sidmouth Club, are the property of a limited company formed in 1893, and consist of reclining, immersion and swimming baths; each bath has four services, hot and cold fresh water, and hot and cold sea water, which meet in mixing boxes and can be supplied in any combination and temperature.

The Sidmouth Constitutional club occupies the upper part of the Market hall. The Sidmouth Club, on the Esplanade, was built in 1894, and has all the requirements of a good-class gentleman’s club. There is a Choral and Orchestral Society, by whom concerts are given occasionally, and there is also an Amateur Operatic Society. The Sidmouth and District Poultry, Pigeon, Cagebird, Rabbit, Hog and Cat Society, and the Sidmouth, Sidbury and Salcombe Regis Horticultural Society, and the two latter hold annua] shows.

The Sidbury, Sidmouth, Salcombe Regis and Branscombe Agricultural Association holds its annual meeting in October.

There are two branch banks: the London and South Western Bank Limited, Temple house, near the Esplanade, and the Devon and Cornwall Banking Co. Limited, Bank House, High street.

There is a Young Men’s Christian Association, in Mill street, established in 1876, which had, in 1901, 70 members, and a Young Women’s Christian Association, with a reading-room, opened in 1882, in High street.

In the town are two circulating libraries.

Excellent accommodation is afforded by the following well-appointed hotels, viz.: The Knowle, a new and beautiful hotel in charming grounds, recently visited by the Empress Eugenie; the Bedford hotel, close to the baths, and situated in the middle of the Esplanade, and the London hotel, in Fore street, which has good stock rooms. There are also many very good lodging and boarding houses.

The Fire Brigade numbers 13 members, and has the use of a manual engine belonging to the Urban District Council, and stationed in Mill street.

Sidmouth is a coastguard and lifeboat station; a lifeboat was presented to the institution by Mrs. Rimmington in 1869; and a new lifeboat, named “William and Frances,” was presented by Miss F. A. Bass, in May, 1885, at a cost of £850.

The boat-house on the Esplanade was built by subscription.

There are fine cricket and tennis grounds, and golf links have recently been laid out and a pavilion erected.

There are also cycling, football and sailing clubs, an Archery Society and an Arts and Crafts Association.

A few of the women and children of this place are employed in making Honiton lace.

The Cottage Hospital, established in 1885, and rebuilt in 1892 on a site given by Capt. and Hon. Maj. J. E. H. Balfour J.P. is intended for the benefit of poor persons suffering from accident or non-infectious disease, who cannot be properly attended to in their own homes; and primarily, for those resident in the parishes of Sidmouth, Salcombe Regis, and Sidbury. Cases of accident, however, from other neighbouring parishes, may be received, with the consent of the medical officer, but the hospital is not intended for cases of mental disorder, advanced consumption or chronic disease, nor for any child under the age of five years: the hospital is available for 10 patients, 38 patients were treated in 1900.

The Dispensary, established in 1836 is partly supported by voluntary contributions: 425 patients were treated during the year ending July, 1900.

The charities, amounting to about £250 yearly, consist of accumulated bequests extending through several centuries, and are in the hands of 12 feoffees, who distribute them to the schools for educating poor children, and also amongst poor householders not receiving parish relief.

Woolbrook Glen, situated near the western extremity of the town, and formerly the property and residence of Mrs. Baynes, was in 1820 the residence of the Duke and Duchess of Kent, who came here accompanied by her late Majesty, then Princess Victoria: after an illness of short duration, his Royal Highness died here, 23rd Jan. 1820, in the 53rd year of his age. The neighbourhood of Sidmouth is studded with numerous delightful villa residences.

Capt. and Hon. Maj. John Edmond Heugh Balfour (late 11th Hussars), of the Manor House, who is lord of the manor, and the Misses Radford are the principal landowners.

The area of the parish and urban district is 1,563 acres of land and 35 of tidal water; rateable value, £18,077; the population in 1891 was 3,758, and in 1901 was 4,201.

VOLUNTEERS

3rd Volunteer Battalion Devonshire Regiment (B Co.); head quarters, Drill hall, Esplanade; Capt. & Hon. Major J. A. Orchard; James Skinner, color-sergeant; Sergt. James Small, drill instructor

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of services

St. Nicholas, (Parish) Church, Rev. Henry George John Clements M.A. vicar; Rev. Alexander Gordon Clunes Ewing, curate; 10.45 a.m.. & 3 p.m.; summer, 7 p.m.; wad. & Fri. 11.45 a.m.

All Saints’ Church, Rev. John Leathley Nightingale M.A.; 10.45 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; also at 8 a.m.. in summer; holy days, 11.30 a.m..; week days, 10 a.m.. & 5 p.m.

Convent of the Assumption, Rev. Norbert Jones; mass, Sunday, 10 a.m..; Mon. Wed. & Fri. 8 a.m..; Tue. Thur. & Sat. 7 a.m.; holidays of obligation, 8 a.m..; benediction daily at 4.30 p.m. in summer & 4 p.m. winter.

Congregational, Western town, Rev. Chailes Rhodes; 10.45 а.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 7.30 p.m.

Unitarian, High street, Rev. William Agar; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist (Devon & Dorset Mission), Rev. Danl. D. Carr, Budleigh Salterton; 10.45 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; Tue. 7 p.m.

Gospel Hall, Holmdale; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.

Salvation Army, Esplanade.

SCHOOLS

National (boys), for 100 boys; average attendance, 100; Frederick H. Drew, master; (girls & infants) enlarged in 1868, for 200 children; average attendance, 128.

All Saints’ Church (mixed), built in 1847, for 226 children; average attendance, 200.

Woolbrook (mixed), built in 1873, for 80 children; average attendance, 58.