On approaching Durham from the south, the traveller is struck with the elegance of its situation, and the venerable appearance of its principal buildings ; the cathedral and castle stand upon an eminence, girt by the streets called the North and South Baileys, enclosed with remains of the old city walls, and skirted with hanging gardens, descending to the river Wear, which surrounds this part of the city in the shape of an horse-shoe. On the opposite side of the river the banks are high, rocky, and scattered over with trees ; along the brink of which the street of New Elvet is extended, and terminates by the church of St. Oswald. Across the bridge are the streets of Claypeth and St. Giles, which climb the mere distant eminence to the east; the church terminating the line of buildings. The slopes of the hills are beautified with hanging gardens and rich meadows. Newton Hall, with its adjacent plantations, fills the nearer back ground; behind which a fine cultivated country is discovered, lengthening the prospect to the distance of 10 miles, on which Pensher or Painshaw Hill, with its peaked brow, is a beautiful object. To form the left wing, the banks opposite to the cathedral and castle are clothed with wood and fruit trees, South Street stretching along the summit. The long canal which the river exhibits to the eye in this part is crossed by Framwellgate bridge, which has two elliptic arches. On the banks of the river is Crook Hall, the seat of Robert Hopper Williamson, Esq. with the woodlands of Newton Hall on the more distant ground; to the left of which is Aycliffe Heads, the neat villa of Francis Johnson, Esq. From the north the appearance of this city is still more romantic ; in short, whoever has a taste for beautiful prospects will find themselves highly gratified by the variety which present themselves from the different hills with which Durham is surrounded, us well as from the different avenues leading to it.

The name of this city is said by most authors to be derived from its situation; the term being a corruption from the Saxon words Dur, a hill; and Holme, a river island. By the Latins, observes Camden, it is called Dvnelmvs ; and by the common people, Durham, or Duresme, the latter appellation being derived, according to Bishop Gibson, from the Norman Duresme.

The origin of the city of Durham is generally allowed by most historians to have been in the tenth or beginning of the eleventh century, when the monks of the islands of Lindisfarne, being harassed by the invasions of the Danes, determined not only to quit the place, the peculiar sanctity of which among Christians, only excited proportionable cruelty in the Danish Pagans, but likewise to remove the remains of their beloved Saint Cuthbert, that his relics might not be exposed to the rude insults of the invaders. In pursuance of this resolve, these monks gathered the holy relics, sacred vessels, ornaments and jewels of the altars and shrines, together with St. Ethelwold’s stone crucifix, and fled from Lindisfarne, where the episcopal see had continued 241 years. With their holy charge, Eardulf, the bishop and his company passed into the mountainous parts of the country, still changing their abode, as intelligence of the enemy’s progress seemed to threaten their safety. Their pious ardour, indeed, must have been equal to any toil, and superior to every dapper, encumbered as they were with the remains of St. Cuthbert, the head of St. Oswald, the bones of Saints Adrian, Eadbert, Eanfred, and Ethelwold, inclosed in one ark or shrine; and a ponderous cross of St. Ethelwold borne before then.

The inhabitants of Lindisfarne, on the removal of the relics, lett their lands and goods, and followed the bishop and his train, who wearied with travelling, first retired to Cuneagaster (now Chester-le-Street), where they rested during the Danish wars, being a period of 43 years; at the end of which, upon the Danes again infesting the northern coasts, the relics were removed, by Aidune, the last bishop of Chester-le-Street, to Ripon, where they remained four months ; and were at length deposited at Dunholme, a place strong by nature, but not easily rendered habitable, as it was overgrown by a thick forest, in the midst of which was a small plain.— Here the pious labourers constructed a wicker tabernacle as a reliquary for their sacred deposit; and in the year 995, another temple was built, which was denominated White Church. It does not appear, however, that any habitations for these wanderers were erected, for a considerable time after their coming to Dunholme; ‘ for we are told,’ says Mr. Hutchinson, ‘that in the course of three years from the date of the first tabernacle, a church of stone work was begun, and dedicated by Bishop Aldun, wherein the saint’s remains were deposited. According to the course of events exhibited by the ancient writers, it was not till after the foundation of Aldun’s church was laid, that the forest by which it was surrounded was cut down, and the skirts of the hill rendered fit for habitation. Much labour was expended, and all the inhabitants between the rivers Coquet and Tees, to the extent of 50 miles, are said to have been employed at the command of Uthred, Earl of Northumberland. From the above circumstances we are led to date the rise of the town of Durham in the opening of the eleventh century.’

This town, indeed, appears to have had some fortifications in the year. 1040, at which time Duncan, king of Scotland, attacked it, when the townsmen sustained the assaults of the invaders for some time, and at length made a salley, in which they were victorious, the enemy being totally routed; and the heads of the Scotch leaders, who fell or were taken prisoners, were fixed on poles round the market-place.

On the accession of the Conqueror to the throne of England, many of the. English, who were uneasy under the Norman yoke, assembled here, and fortified themselves, or, as it is said, built a castle with a rampart, and gave frequent sallies, waiting the arrival of Sevenoe, the Danish king. But, on King William marching against them, and not receiving their expected assistance, they betook themselves to flight, when he entered the city, and granted the inhabitants many privileges.

In the year 1069 William I. sent Robert Cumin, whom he had created Earl of Northumberland, to Durham, with a guard of 700 veteran Normans, to enforce his authority ; and, though repeatedly cautioned by the bishop, the earl still permitted his soldiers, who were quartered in the city, to practise every species of cruelty and oppression against the inhabitants, who formed associations against the Normans, upon which Cumin proscribed and murdered several of the landholders ; this acted as a summons to the peasants, who immediately armed themselves and surrounded the city. At this time, says Hutchinson, the earl’s guards had taken forcible possession of the houses, as their wantonness in cited, and being dispersed through the town, in contempt of danger, gave themselves up to ease and enjoyment. Just at the dawn of day the assailants broke open all the gates of the town, and flying in parties through every street, made a dreadful slaughter of the Normans ; insomuch that, Symeon says, the streets were filled with blood and carcases. Many were shut up in the house where the earl lodged, and defending it bravely, the enraged populace could not force an entrance; therefore, throwing in fire-brands, they set the edifice in flames. When those within saw the eminent peril to which they were reduced, they forced open the doors, and attempted to escape the fury of the fire, but were slain as they came out. At length the building was reduced to ashes, with every thing within its walls. The fire was so vehement, that the flames were seen to take hold of the western tower of the church. This afflicting circumstance alarmed the multitude ; the religious inhabitants of the city, and even those in arms, ceasing from the slaughter, fell upon their knees, with eyes filled with tears, and elevated hands, petitioning heaven, that by the assistance of the Holy Saint, and through his interposition, the sacred edifice might be spared from destruction.— Quickly the wind shifted, and bore the flames from the church. Thus the earl, on the calends of February, A.D. 1069, with his seven hundred guards one man excepted who escaped with his wounds)were put to death ! William, upon hearing of this, detached a party of his troops to scour the country ; but before they had proceeded far, a thick fog so enveloped them, that they could scarcely see each other ; this, operating upon superstitious minds, aided by the report of St. Cuthbert’s miracles, so alarmed them, that they returned with precipitation ; fearful of incurring that saint’s displeasure. William, however, was not to be so intimidated, but marching forward, desolated the country in such a manner, that for 60 miles, between York and Durham, he did not leave a house standing; reducing the whole district, by fire and sword, to a horrible desert, smoking with blood, and in ashes. Neither monasteries or churches were spared; and it is impossible to describe the miseries of the inhabitants; as a dreadful famine and mortality ensued, unequalled in the annals of Britain, the people being reduced to eat the flesh of horses, dogs, and cats, and at last, even human carcases ; for nine years the land lay un-tilled, being infested with robbers and beasts of prey ; and the remnant of the inhabitants, who had escaped the sword, died in the fields, overwhelmed with want and misery. Hovedon relates, "that on the tyrant’s approach to Durham, he found the town evacuated, the ecclesiastics fled, and the church left without a minister to perform any sacred office. The king’s army being dispersed in destructive parties over the country between the Tyne and the Weare, beheld the villages deserted, the whole country a dismal waste ; and the inhabitants, with their flocks and other property, fled into the most secret recesses of the forests and mountains. But not moved to compassion by a scene so truly wretched, the barbarians set fire to the monastery of Jarrow, and made rejoicings over its ashes."

These calamities again caused the disturbance of the bones of St. Cuthbert, which had now reposed for 75 years ; the bishop removing them to Lindisfarne, when another miracle is reported to have occurred. On the fourth day, in the evening, the bishop with a vast concourse of people having arrived on the shore opposite to the holy island of Lindisfarne, found the sea at high water. The severity of the winter rendered the night-air intolerable to the aged as well as the tender, which caused great lamentation ; when, by a particular interposition, the sea retired, and left a dry passage for the poor wanderers, who, with loud thanksgiving and holy joy, passed over in the island. But what completed the miracle, was, as Symeon asserts, "Those who carried the saint’s remains, gave evidence, that as soon as the multitude had passed, the sea returned, and closed up the vacancy, which a few moments before had divided the water." Another miracle is likewise related by our author, who says, "That the king, whilst he abode in Durham, entertaining a doubt of the incorruptible state of St. Cuthbert’s body, inquired diligently concerning it; and notwithstanding the asseverations of several of the most pious and venerable men there, he still pretended to disbelieve it, and insisted on having an inspection of the sepulchre himself. Several bishops and abbots assented to his will, and thought it proper the king’s pleasure should be complied with. Whether provoked by the delay, or his suspicion of fraud was increased by the reluctance of the ecclesiastics to comply with his desire, is not pointed out; but the king solemnly vow ed, if he was deceived in the relations he had heard, if the incorruptibility of the saint’s remains was merely a tale to work upon the superstition of the vulgar, and the body was not found in the state represented to him, he would put to death all those of superior rank throughout the city who had presumed to impose on him. A terror fell on such as heard his menaces, and they devoutly implored the mercy of God, through the merits of the blessed St. Cuthbert, whilst the bishop whom the king had appointed, performed the service of high mass. The king, determined to satisfy his curiosity, immediately after the ceremony, commanded the officers of the church to open the sepulchre, and whilst he stood by, he found himself smitten on a sudden with a burning fever, which distracted him in an intolerable manner. Seized with such anguish and disease, he rushed out of the church, leaving untasted a sumptuous banquet which the ecclesiastics had prepared for him ; and instantly mounting his horse, he fled from the city with the utmost haste, never abating the speed of his courser, till he arrived on the banks of the Tees. An indication of preternatural interference at such a time overawed the people, and greatly contributed to the veneration paid to the saint’s shrine." Tradition mentions, that the king in his haste, took his way down the narrow street called King’s Gate, leading to the Bailey, and now called Dun Cow Lane.

On tranquility being restored, the bishop and his companions quitted the isle of Lindisfarne, returned to their desolated country, and at length replaced the sacred remains of their beloved saint in his shrine at Durham.

Under several successive prelates, the benefactions and riches had continued to flow so rapidly to this shrine that William de Carilepho, the sixth in succession from Aldwin, thinking the church not magnificent enough for the remains of so great a saint, and having brought over from Normandy the plan of a new church, pulled down the old one 76 years after its first erection ; and in its stead began the present structure, the foundation stones of which were laid by Malcolm, king of Scotland, bishop Carilepho, and Turgot, the prior, on the 11th of August, 1093 ; and so great was the progress made in this work, that his successor, Ralph Flambard, who died in 1128, lived to see the building carried nearly up to the roof. This prelate translated the remains of St. Cuthbert into the new church, and built a stately shrine, called the Feretory, near the choir ; this shrine was composed of costly marble, lined and gilt, and by the additional donations of the numerous pilgrims, it became, in a short time, one of the richest altars in England.

Among other benefactors to this fabric were bishop Hugh Pudsey, who began a new chapel at the east end, with an intention of dedicating it to the honour of the Virgin Mary, to which females might have free access for devotional exercises; but, before the work had proceeded far, vast clefts were discovered in the building, which was considered as a manifestation of the saint’s displeasure, and which induced the bishop to relinquish his purpose ; he, however, appropriated a part at the west end of the church for the virgin’s chapel, which he named the Galilee, where females were allowed to enter; but they were on no account to be admitted within any other part of the cathedral; the reason of this exclusion is thus accounted for, by an ancient writer: "Blessed St. Cuthbert, for a long time, led a most solitary life in the borders of the Picts, at which place great concourse of people daily used to visit him, and from whom, by the providence and grace of God, never any returned without great comfort. This caused both young and old to resort unto him, taking great pleasure both to see him, and to hear him speak. In which time it happened that the daughter of the king of the province, having illicit commerce with one of her father’s domestics, its effects were perceived by the king, and he examined her concerning the author of her disgrace. She, instigated by an evil mind, instantly answered, ‘ The solitary young man who dwelleth hard by, is he who hath overcome me, and by whose beauty I am thus deceived.’ Whereupon the king, furiously enraged, presently repaired to the hermit’s place, with his daughter, attended by several knights, where he instantly accosted the servant of God in the following manner:—‘ What art thou he, who, under the colour of religion profanest the temple and sanctuary of God? Art thou he, who, under the cloak and profession of an hermit, exercisest thyself in all filthiness? Behold my daughter whom thou by thy wiles hath corrupted ; therefore now, at last, confess this thy fault; and plainly declare here before this company, in what sort thou hast seduced her.’ The king’s daughter, marking the fine speech of her father, impudently stepped forward, and boldly affirmed, ‘ That it was he who had done the wicked fact.' At which the young man, greatly amazed, and perceiving that this calumny proceeded from the instigation of the devil (wherewith he was brought into great perplexity), applied his whole heart unto Almighty God, saying as followeth :—‘ My Lord, my God, who only knoweth, and art the discoverer of all secrets, make manifest also this work of iniquity, and by some token disprove the same, which though it cannot be done by human policy, make it known by some divine token.’ When the young man, with great lamentation, and tears unutterable, had spoken these words, even suddenly, and in the same place where she stood, the earth making a hissing noise, presently opened, and swallowed her up, in the presence of all the spectators. As soon as the king perceived this miracle to happen in the presence of all his company, he began to be greatly tormented in his mind, fearing lest, for his furious threats, he should incur the same punishment. Whereupon he, with his company, humbly craving pardon of Almighty God, with a further petition to that good man St. Cuthbert, that by his prayers he would crave of God to have his daughter again ; which petition the holy monster granted, upon condition that from thence no woman should come near him. Whence it came to pass the king did not suffer any woman to enter into any church dedicated to that saint, which to this day is duly observed in all the churches of the Picts which were dedicated to that holy man."

The great prejudice by which females were prohibited admission, may be estimated from the following anecdote :—"In the year 1333, Edward III. arrived at Durham, and lodged in the Priory ; a few days after Queen Philippa came from Knaresborough to meet him, and being unacquainted with the custom of this church went through the abbey gates to the priory, anti after supping with the king retired to rest. This alarmed the monks, one of whom went to the king, and informed him, that St. Cuthbert had a mortal aversion to the presence of a woman. Unwilling to give any offence to the church, Edward immediately ordered the queen to arise, who, in her under garments only, returned by the gate through which she had entered, and went to the castle; after most devoutly praying that St. Cuthbert would not avenge a fault, which she had through ignorance committed."

The great central tower of the cathedral, which was formerly called the lantern, was built as high as the gallery, by prior Melsonby, who was elected in the year 1233 ; and finished by Prior Hugh of Darlington, who was elected in the year 1258, and erected the upper tower, in which the bells are now hung. The eastern transept, generally called the nine altars, is supposed to have been finished by prior Horton, who acceded to the priory in the year 1289, and who also placed the roof on the choir. The body of the church was vaulted with stone about the year 1242, by bishop Farnham and prior Melsonby. Adjoining the south aisle of the choir is the vestry, built by Henry de Queeby, about the year 1300.

The whole length of this venerable pile, which is a more regular edifice than is generally to be found in structures of the like age, exclusive of the Galilee, is 411 feet, and the height of the middle tower is 214 feet. The Galilee at the west end is from east to west 50 feet, and from north to south 80 feet wide.

The situation of this cathedral is extremely grand, the building stretching along the crown of an eminence, above 80 feet perpendicular from the surface of the river which washes its base; on the west this church rises on the points of rocks, which shew themselves on the summit of the mount, and almost overhang the stream. From the square called the Palace Green, the whole north front of the cathedral may be seen at once; the west front, which consists of two highly ornamented square towers, with the Galilee between, appears to great advantage from the opposite side of the river. "The basement line of the elevation," says Mr. Carter, "presents the projecting chapel of the Galilee, flanked by huge buttresses and arches, springing out of the rock, to contribute due support to its wails, which form one vast combination of security to the main edifice itself." The great west window, enriched with various compartments, rises, above the Galilee, up to the roof. The ornaments of the towers are modern; though an unsuccessful attempt has been made to render them similar to the original forms ; their summits being bounded by pinnacles and open worked battlements. The centre tower, which rises from the intersection of the nave and transept, is singularly rich and elegant; being surrounded by a profusion of fine tracery, pointed arches, and other ornaments ; and its buttresses graced with niches, within which various statues are placed, representing the original founders and patrons of the see.

In the interior of this magnificent building the connexion between Saxon and Norman architecture may be distinctly traced; and the latter in its highest stage of perfection: a similar comparison may also be made with the English or pointed stales ; the chapel of the nine altars, partaking in its general enrichments and proportions of the architectural character of Salisbury Cathedral; and thus, from its singular light appearance, forming a striking contrast with the massive Norman work which is prevalent in other parts of the building.

"In the inside of the cathedral," says Mr. Pennant, "is preserved much of the clumsy yet venerable magnificence of the early Norman style; the pillars are vast cylinders 23 feet in circumference, some adorned with zig-zag farrows; others lozenge-shaped, with narrow ribs or spiral; the arches round, carved with zig-zags ; above are two rows of galleries, each with round arches or openings; a row of small pilasters run round the sides of the church, with rounded arches intersecting each other; the windows are obtusely pointed. Near the west end, in the middle of the nave, is the font, an elegant marble basin, covered with a fine piece of tabernacle-work of red oak, of an octagonal form, richly ornamented and supported by four columns about eight feet high, the whole being about 30 feet, and terminating in a pinnacle, decorated by a dove with expanded wings ; at a small distance, towards the east, and forming part of the pavement, is a long cross of blue marble, beyond which females were prohibited from advancing to St. Cuthbert’s shrine. Near the cloister door are the mutilated tombs of John and Ralph Lords Neville, the latter of whom was the first layman who was permitted to be interred within the cathedral; these monuments, which were formerly ornamented with recumbent figures, were greatly defaced, as well as several others, by the Scots, of whom about 4000 were kept as prisoners in this church after the battle of Dunbar. The present elegant clock, which now stands at the south end of the middle transept, was erected by dean Hunt and the chapter, in the year 1632. The south aisle, which is enclosed with a skreen of wood, is used for the early morning prayers; the north aisle, which is not used at present, is likewise enclosed with a wooden skreen. The front of the choir, which was formerly decorated with the effigies of the saints and patrons of this church, is now enclosed with a skreen of oak, curiously carved with festoons of fruits and flowers; the ascent to the choir is by two marble steps, and over the door is a large and fine-toned organ, beautifully painted and decorated. The stalls for the bishop, dean, prebendaries, &c. are finished in a magnificent style, with tabernacle work ; beneath sit the lay-singers, almshouse men, and scholars on the foundation; at the end of the stalls, the pavement is raised one step ; on the light of which is the bishop’s throne, an elegant structure, erected by bishop Hatfield, about the year 1370. The throne is considerably elevated ; and in the centre is a chair of state, having a canopy of ornamental tabernacle work ; it was repaired by bishop Crewe, in the year 1700; and new painted and gilt by bishop Egerton, in the year 1772, Under the throne, on the south side, is the tomb of its founder, which has thus been described by Mr. Carter:—"This beautiful statue has fortunately been preserved in a nearly perfect state to this time ; a few of the most prominent parts having only suffered. The bishop is habited in his episcopal dress, richly adorned with sculpture, painting, and gilding, in imitation of embroidery. The outer garment is the chasuble, in its ancient ample form, and much ornamented. On his hands are the episcopal gloves, embroidered on the back; on his left arm is the maniple. Beneath the chasuble is the linen alb, or surplice ; and under that appears another garment or tunic, on which are richly embroidered three shields of arms. On the central shield are the arms of England ; on the two lateral one’s the bishop’s own coat. The honour of bearing the arms of England in this manner seems a proof of the high estimation in which this magnanimous prelate was held by his sovereign, and perhaps might have been granted to him in consequence of the distinguished part he bore in the signal battle of Neville’s Cross, The feet of the bishop are covered with rich embroidered shoes, and on his head is the mitre, of its ancient low form." The painting and gilding which adorned this statue are now, however, entirely defaced by a thick coat of light yellow.

Near this tomb is a large pew for the prebendaries’ ladies, and on the north side of the choir are the seats for the ladies of the bishop, dean, and others, near which is the pulpit, adorned with figures of the apostles, neatly inlaid in the pannels, and almost as large as life. The descent into the side aisles, by five marble steps, is by a gate, and two side lights of open tracery work in wood, and finished above with tabernacle work. On each side of the high altar are four stalls of stone, originally designed either for the resting places of sick votaries, or of the officiating priests.

The skreen, which divides the choir from the Feretory and the chapel of the nine altars, is an elegant piece of workmanship; and was given by John Lord Neville, at the expense of 400l. (a vast sum in those times), the prior and convent contributing largely, by giving towards its completion, 123l. 6s. 8d. the work of it having been previously wrought in London, and sent hither by sea. It was erected by seven expert masons, who were almost a year in completing it, to whom the convent allowed diet and wages; it was finished in the year 1380, at which time the high altar was dedicated. The design of this skreen is divided into three stories. The lowest or basement is solid ; the second and third are open, so that the statues, which filled the niches, or rather canopies, were seen, though in a back view, from the east side. The light and airy pinnacles, rising in a pyramidical form, tier above tier, in splendid confusion, cannot be too much admired ; the whole of this beautiful skreen, however, has been greatly mutilated, at various periods, since its erection.

The whole choir comprehends four pillars on each side; two of them clustered, and two round, the latter of which are cut in a spiral form. The roof was repaired, or rather new vaulted, by prior Horton, who acceded in the year 1289; it is of elegant Gothic work, the ribs of the arches terminating in points, ornamented with roses; the fillets pierced in roses and crosses; some of the centre roses are singular: the one next the organ containing a human figure, with three round balls in an apron. From the altar-rails, eastward, the whole work appears nearly of the same date; and by the architecture of this part it seems that the building originally terminated here, and was opened farther eastward to form a connexion with the east transept, or chapel of the nine altars. This chapel, which terminates the cathedral eastward, is entered from the side aisles by a descent of several steps ; its length is 130 feet, and its breadth, from the skreen to the high altar, 5! feet. This portion of the church received its name from nine altars, which were erected beneath the windows on the east side, and dedicated to various saints previous to the Reformation.

"These altars," says an ancient writer, "had their several skreens and covers of wainscot over-head ; having likewise between every altar a very fair and large partition of wainscot, all varnished over with fine branches and flowers, and other imagery work, containing the several lockyers and amberies for the safe keeping of the vestments and ornaments belonging to the altar, with three or four little amberies in the wall, for the same use and purpose." This chapel has generally been allowed to have been the work of a later age than the body of the cathedral. The windows are narrow, lofty, and sharp lyarched ; in the centre, at the top, is a large circular window, called St. Catherine’s window ; and on the outside of this part of the fabric are two projections, in which are the statues of a bishop and a prior. On the octangular tower, at the west angle of this chapel, is the memorable basso relievo, representing the events which occasioned the cathedral to be founded on this spot. According to the legend, the monks, on the removal of St. Cuthbert’s remains from Ripon, were directed by a vision to Dunholme; (a place they were then unacquainted with), but while travelling through the country, a woman in search of a strayed cow, was informed in their hearing that she would find it in Dunholme, whither they immediately accompanied their female guide. The figures of the cow, the woman, and another person, appear in a recess of the stone-work : they were re-sculptured a few years ago, by which their original forms have been somewhat altered.

The great tower, or lantern, is supported by clusters of columns, rising to the springing of the groins; the great arch springing from them is crowned by an open gallery of communication round the inside of the lantern : the space from the gallery to the window is filled with rich compartments, which, with the window itself, are well imagined : groined arches form the termination of the lantern ; and when viewed from below, the magnitude and grandeur of its several parts are extremely striking.

Immediately behind the skreen, on a level with the choir, is the chapel called the Feretory, where the gorgeous shrine of St. Cuthbert was anciently deposited. This shrine, which was once one of the richest in Britain, is now stripped of every ornament; and the only marks of its former reputation are to be found in the impressions worn in the stone flooring, by the feet of the numerous pilgrims who visited it, during the ages of superstition. The remains of St. Cuthbert are said to have been deposited here, in a "chest, well fortified with nayles and leather," but was afterwards enclosed in a marble sepulchre, which was defaced and plundered by Henry VIII. who ordered the remains of St. Cuthbert to be buried in the ground, under the place where his shrine was exalted ; in the centre of the floor, is a large blue stone, under which the saint’s remains are supposed to rest.

It is related in Hesse’s Legend that, previous to the removal of the body of the saint, by prior Turgot, he, "with some of his brethren, determined to open the tomb, with intent to shew his body to the people if they found it entire. At night, therefore, they met at his sepulchre, and reverently taking off the stone, they found a chest well fortified with nayles and leather, and in it another, wrapt in cloth thrice double, in which they found the book of the Evangelists, which had fallen into the sea ; a little silver altar, a goblet of pure gold, with an onyx stone, and an ivory comb ; lastly, opening the third chest, they found the body of the saint (which the grave in so many years had not digested), lying upon the right side, to give room to the rest of the reliques : for, in the same coffin were the bones of the venerable Bede, the head of St. Oswald, part of the bones of Aldanus, Eadfrid, and Ethelwold, bishops of Lindisfarne; ail which reliques they placed with due reverence in other parts of the church ; and laying St Cuthbert on his back, they placed St. Oswald’s head between his hands. At the day of his translation, Ranulphus, the bishop, published in his sermon to the people, the incorruption of St. Cuthbert’s body, which was flexible, and now might plead prescription with the grave to be immortal And thus in great solemnity, they enshrined him beneath the high altar, in the presence of the abbot of St. Alban’s, the abbot of St. Maries, in York, the abbot of St. Germains, and prior Turgot, with thousands of people, spectators of the miracle." In Davies’s Ancient Rights and Monuments, &c. the following tale of the incorruptibility of St. Cuthbert’s body is also preserved: "The sacred shrine of holy St. Cuthbert was defaced at the visitation which Dr. Lee, Dr. Henley, and Mr. Blithman, held at Durham, for the subverting such monuments, in the time of Henry the Eighth, at the suppression of the Abbeys. There were found many worthy and goodly jewels, but especially one previous stone, which, by the estimate of those then visitors, and their skilful lapidaries, was of value sufficient to ransom a prince. After the spoil of his ornaments and jewels, coming near unto his body, thinking to have found nothing but dust and bones, and finding the chest that he lay in very strongly bound with iron, the goldsmith, taking a great forge hammer of a smith, broke the said chest; and when they had opened it, they found him lying whole, incorrupt, with his face bare, and his heard as it were of a fortnight’s growth, and all his vestments about him as he was accustomed to say mass, and his met wand of gold lying by him. When the goldsmith perceived he had broken one of his legs, as he broke open the chest, he was troubled at it, and cried, ' Alas ! I have broken one of his legs.’ Dr. Henley hearing’ him say so, called upon him, and bid him cast down his bones ; whereto the other answered that he could not get them asunder; for the sinnews and the skin held them so that they would not come asunder. Then Dr. Lee stepped up to see whether it were so, and turning about spake in Latin to Dr. Henley that he was entire ; yet Dr. Henley seemed not to give credit to his words, but still cried to have his bones cast down. Then Dr. Lee made answer, ‘ If you will not believe me, come up yourself and see him.’ Whereupon Dr. Henley did step up, and handled him, and found that he lay whole, then he commanded them to take him down ; and so it happened, contrary to their expectation, that not only his body was whole, and uncorrupted, but also that the vestments wherein his body lay, and wherein he was accustomed to say mass, were safe, fresh, and not consumed."

The Galilee, or St. Mary’s chapel, is at the west end of the cathedral ; the entrance is by two doors from the end of the side aisles of the nave. It was built for a place of worship for the females, who, as we have already mentioned, were not allowed to enter the cathedral further than the blue cross. This chapel is divided into five aisles, by four rows of pillars. The north aisle is now walled up, and was used as a repository for wills, where the register-office was kept till 1822, when a suitable building was erected on the west side of the palace Green, on the site of the Old Courts. In the middle aisle was the Virgin Mary ’s Altar, close to which is the tomb of Cardinal Langley, who died in the year 1438 ; in the next aisle is a large marble, which covers the remains of the venerable Bede. The breadth of the Galilee from east to west is 50 feet, and its length 80 feet. The south side is now stalled and benched, and is used as the bishop’s consistory court.

In different parts of the cathedral are some beautifully ornamented door-ways, in the Norman style, two of which have been thus described in the account published by the Society of Antiquaries:— "The proportion of the door entering into the north cloister, from the west end of the south aisle, is very striking, and it has much the air of a Roman arch. On each side the opening are three columns ; the two exterior ones are united in an uncommon mode. They are covered with diagonal mouldings, which by meeting at the union of the column, form diamond panels. The single column on the left has lozenged panels, placed alternately, and each filled with a flower. That on the right has larger diamonds filled with flowers, and divided by beads : the ornaments of both the capitals are varied. The architrave is divided into three parts : the first and second have the diagonal or zig-zag ; the exterior division is of uncommon form ; it consists of a sort of semi-octagonal band. The two oblique faces are hollowed like cavettos ; the middle face is flat, and enriched with leaves. Over all are laid large pateras, ornamented with flowers and foliage." The second door, which open from the north side of the cloisters into the east end of the south aisle, in its decorations is equally rich and singular with the former. "The three columns on each side stand on a surbase: their shafts are plain, and their capitals of rather a simple form ; they are detached from the wall in the manner of the early English style; within them is a flat ground, in which is the opening of the door-way. This ground is highly enriched with an uncommon variety of the diagonal moulding, edged with beads and roses in the panels. An unaccountable irregularity of design occurs on the left hand of the arch : the architrave is divided into four parts ; the first a cavetto, with detached roses; the second is a bold convex, covered with a double fret, beaded ; the third is also convex, with a turreted band, also beaded ; the exterior is likewise convex, and resembles a bundle of twigs, with the young shoots or stalks of leaves cut off short; these twigs are also beaded. This ornament seems, by some small parts yet remaining, to have been continued on each side over other arches."

Most of the beautiful tombs and brasses, which covered the remains of many distinguished prelates and other eminent persons, which have been interred in this cathedral, have been swept away by the hands of sacrilege and fanaticism. To the west end of the nave are several beautiful marble monuments and tablets with inscriptions to the memory of some of the most distinguished members of the chapter, who have died within the last 70 years.

On the door within the porch, which forms the principal entrance to this cathedral is a curious metallic ring, or knocker, sculptured with a terrific visage in bold relief, and well executed, with which persons claiming sanctuary, were accustomed to alarm the inmates of the cathedral in the night time: for "the abbey church, the church yard, and all the circuit thereof, was," says Mr. Hutchinson, "in ancient times, before the house was suppressed, a sanctuary for all manner of men, that committed any great offence, or any prisoners who had broken out of prison, and fled to the church-door, knocking to have it opened; also certain men lay in two chambers over the north door for that purpose, that, whenever such offenders came, and knocked, they instantly let them in, at any hour of the night; and ran quickly to the Galilee bell, and tolled it, that whosoever heard it might know that some had taken sanctuary. When the prior had notice thereof, he sent orders for them to keep within the sanctuary ; that is, within the church and church-yard, and that every one should have a gown of black cloth, with a yellow cross, called St. Cuthbert’s cross, at the left shoulder ; that every one might see the privilege granted at St. Cuthbert’s shrine, for offenders to fly unto for succour, and safeguard of their lives, till they could obtain their prince’s pardon : and that they should lie within the church, on a grate made only for that purpose, adjoining to the gallery south door. They had likewise meat, drink, and bedding, and other necessaries, at the cost of the house, for 37 days, being only such as were necessary for such offenders, until the prior and convent could get them conveyed out of the diocese. This privilege was confirmed not only by king Guthred, but by king Alured likewise."

On the south side of the church is the cloisters, which were erected between the years 1389 and 1438, by Bishop Skirlaw and Cardinal Langley, at the expence of 833l. 17s. 6d.; the former contributing 600l. and the latter the remainder. These cloisters form a quadrangle of 147 feet, having 11 windows in each front, which were formerly glazed, but are now open, the tracery of which have been repaired, in the pointed style, some years since.— The ceiling, which is of Irish oak, was originally ornamented with emblazoned shields of the arms of various persons who have contributed to enrich the church by their benefactions: scarcely any of these embellishments, however, are now discernible.

Adjoining the cloisters is the Chapter House, which was originally built by Bishop Geoffry Rufus, about the year 1136, in the form of a theatre; its internal arrangements, is said, however to bear a striking resemblance to the most ancient Christian churches; and against the east end was the stone chair, in which the new bishops were formerly installed. This building has been nearly pulled down during the late repairs of the cathedral, and a larger room has been erected on its site.

On the south side was the old Frater House, or Monks Hall, which was converted into an elegant library for the dean and chapter, by Dean Sudbury, about the year 1680. Besides several records and curiosities, which are deposited here, are two copies of Magna Charter, the one dated 12th of November, 1216, the other 11th February, 1224 ; there is likewise a manuscript copy of the Bible, in four volumes, folio, 600 years old : and Bede’s five books of History, of nearly the same date.

On the west side of the cloisters is the old Dormitory, under which is the Treasury and Song School, in the former of which, according to Mr. Hutchinson, are lodged, about 90 royal charters and grants, 52 deeds by nobles and barons, and 266 by inferior gentry ; about 131 by popes, bishops, priors, &c. and 130 other original deeds and copies, altogether 670."

From the cloisters is a passage leading to a spacious oblong square, called the College, in which is the Deanery and Prebendal Houses ; the latter, being partly modern, and well-built, have a respectable appearance. The Deanery was formerly the Prior’s lodgings, and the kitchen, which was originally the kitchen of the monastery, is very curious, being of an octangular form, vaulted with a cupola light, the chimney concealed, and greatly resembling the abbot’s kitchen at Glastonbury—At the upper end of the square is a neat fountain, which was repaired and beautified in the year 1791, and supplies the neighbouring families with water, which is brought in pipes from Elvet Moor. At the lower end of the square is the gateway, above, which is St. Helen’s Chapel, not now used, and the Old Exchequer, where all the rents reserved in the chapter leases are made payable. This chapel was built by Prior Castell, about the year 1515. Behind the west side is a pleasant terrace, called the Prebend’s Walk, from whence is a delightful view of the Wear and its banks. On the north side of the church-yard is the Grammar School, a seminary of great respectability, and the Master’s House.

In the year 1778, upon a survey of this cathedral, it was found to be in great want of repair, when the dean and chapter immediately began the costly work, which has been continued with little intermission, to the present time. The whole north front, has been chiseled over, and the decayed parts restored ; the greater part of the windows have been repaired or put in anew, and new glazed : new sculptures have supplied the place of the old ones, and two new stone spires have been placed upon the towers, at the north end of the eastern transept: the western towers, on which were formerly two large wooden spires, covered with lead, and which were taken down the latter end of the last century, have undergone a thorough repair, and are now finished with elegant new decorations. The east end has likewise undergone a thorough alteration. Of late years the expence of this magnificent undertaking has amounted to a sum not Jess than from 1500 to 2000l. annually, and by means of a judicious appropriation of the means provided for this purpose, an income has been secured sufficient to defray the charges of future repair. The dean and chapter have evinced their munificence by an annual donation of three hundred pounds in aid of this great undertaking, which reflects the highest honour on that venerable and opulent body. Early prayers are read here every morning in summer at half past six o’clock, and seven in winter; the choir service begins every morning at ten, and at four in the afternoon.

This see, which is deemed the richest bishopric in England, is valued in the king's books at 2,821l. 1s. 51/4d. but it is computed to be worth annually little short of 20,000l. Henry VIII. granted a new foundation-charter in the year 1541, directing that the cathedral church, instead of being dedicated as before to the "Blessed Mary the Virgin, and St. Cuthbert the Bishop," should thenceforth bear the name of the "Cathedral of Christ and blessed Mary the Virgin and likewise directing that it should be governed by a dean and twelve prebendaries. The establishment, at present, besides the dean and prebendaries, consists of two archdeacons, (who are two of the prebendaries,) eight minor canons, eight singing men, ten singing boys, a master of the choristers, eight alms-men, two masters of the grammar school, 18 scholars, two vergers, and one porter.

Besides the cathedral here are six parish churches: St. Oswald’s Church, which is situated at the top of the street of New Elvet, is a very ancient structure, remarkable for its vaulted roof of wood, constructed, as is supposed, by William Catton, the vicar about the year 1412; it has a neat gallery. The vicarage house is pleasantly situated near the church yard, on the banks of the river.

St. Nicholas’s Church is situated at the lower end of the market-place ; it is a very ancient plain structure. In the year 1768 the front and steeple were chiseled over, and a large new window was put in at the east end. This is the city church, to which the corporation go every Sunday, where they have seats ; there is a gallery, for the children of the United Blue-coat and Sunday Schools, erected at the expence of the late Sir John Eden, Bart. The interior of this church has lately undergone a thorough repair. In the old register book of this parish is the following remarkably entry : "Simson, Arington, Fetherstone, Feawicke, and Lancaster, were hanged for being Egyptians."

The Church of St. Mary-le-Bow, is situated on the east side of the Bailey ; it is built of hewn stone in a very neat and uniform style, and without aisles. It was opened for divine service in the year 1685. In this church the bishops and archdeacon’s visitations are usually held. In September, 1792, an excellent fine-toned organ was put up in this church by the Rev. Edward Parker, the rector. According to tradition, this church stands on the same spot where St. Cuthbert’s remains were lodged, in a tabernacle boughs, when they were first brought by the monks to Durham.

St. Giles’s Church is of remote origin, being narrow, long, and lofty, and without aisles. In the chancel of this church is a recumbent figure, cut in wood, with its hands elevated, and the head resting upon an helmet. It is traditionally said to represent one of the Heath family, who was buried here in the year 1591. The beautiful prospect from this church-yard has been thus described by Mr. Hutchinson:—"The traveller who is conducted to this church should be admitted at the north door, and depart from the south door, where a noble prospect opens to the view, too extensive for a picture, and too rich for a description. The inadequate ideas which language can convey, are to be lamented by the reader who has a taste for rural beauties, and the elegance of landscape. The church of St. Giles stands upon very elevated ground, open to the south, where the view is unobstructed. In front, the meadow grounds form a steep descent to the river; on one wing closed by the wood called Pelaw Wood, on the other by the buildings of the street. At the foot of the hill the river Wear forms a beautiful canal, almost a mile in length, terminated by Elvet Bridge to the right, and by the wooded enclosures of Old Durham on the left. On the opposite shore is the race-ground, consisting of an extended tract of level meads, from whence by a gradual ascent rise the two Elvets ; the street of Old Elvet running parallel, the other obliquely, bordered with gardens, and terminated by Elvet Church; a handsome structure. The channel of the river lying between New Elvet and the Bailies, affords an agreeable break or change in the objects ; the sloping gardens being seen over the buildings of Elvet, softened to the eye with that pleasing tint which the distance produces. On the brink of the ascent stands the Bailies, object rising gradually above object, guarded with the remains of the town-wall, and crowned with the Cathedral Church, which in this view presents the north and east fronts, like the mitre which binds the temples of its prelate, giving the noblest supreme ornament to the capital of the principality. To the right Elvet Bridge, with seven arches, receives the stream, and intercepts a further view of the progress of the river: over it, tier above tier, rise the buildings of Sadler Street, the gloomy and solemn towers of the gaol, and the battlements and octagonal tower of the Castle; the trophies of civil jurisdiction wearing the aspect of old secular authority, and the frowns of feudal power. Between the chief objects, the Cathedral and Castle, on the nearer background, South Street with its hanging gardens, makes a fine curvature; behind which Brandon Mount, with a spot of high land, extending towards Auckland, form the horizon. Further to the right, from the banks of the river, rise the buildings of the Market-place, crowding the tower of the Church, from whence the streets of Claypath and Gilligate extend. Thus far description has proceeded without much faltering: but in the other divisions of the scene it is faint and totally inadequate: whoever would know the rest, must come and view it. Over the meadows, in the centre, a precipice rises, nearly 100 perpendicular feet in height, called Maiden Castle Scar, or Cliff; the steep sides of the hill to the right and left are covered with a forest of old oaks, and the foot of the cliff is washed by the river, whose stream appears again at this point. The lofty ridge of hills clothed with oaks, stretching away, forms a ziz-zag figure ; at the most distant point of which the great southern road, up the new enclosed grounds of Elvet Moor, is seen climbing the hill for near a mile, beyond which very distant eminences form a blue-tinged horizon. To the left of Maiden Castle Cliff you look upon a rich valley, highly cultivated, extending nearly five miles in length, and two in width, bending to the south-west, through which the river winds its silver stream in the figure of an S. Hanging-woods shut in each side of the nearer vale, where are, finely disposed, the pleasant village of Shincliffe, its bridge of three arches, the villa of the late William Rudd, Esq. and Houghall-house. The extreme part of the valley is closed by the woods of Shincliffe, Butterby, and Croxdale, forming an elegant amphitheater ; over these rise distant hills, lined out with enclosures, giving the yellow and brown tint to the landscape over the richer coloured woods. The whole finished with an elevated horizon, on the wings of which are scattered the villages of Ferryhill and Merrington ; the tower of Merrington Church forming a beautiful and lofty obelisk. One of the greatest excellencies of this landscape is, that the ground rises gradually before you, and just such a distance is maintained as preserves all the objects distinct; not like the landscapes painted by the Flemish and Dutch masters. To the, left you look down upon Old Durham House, its terraces and hanging gar dens, with a fine bend of cultivated country stretching away through another opening of the hills towards the east, bounded by the high woods of Quarrington ; and the cliffs of Coxhoe lime-kilns, more rustic than the other views, and being in simple nature, affords a pleasing variety to the eye of the man of taste, who stands (if we may be allowed the extravagant expression) on this enchanted ground," The other churches are St. Margaret’s in Crossgate, and Little St. Mary in the South Bailey ; but they contain nothing particularly worthy of notice. Besides the churches, there are two Roman-catholic chapels in Old Elvet; one Independent meeting-house, and one Quakers’ meeting in Claypath; and one Methodist-meeting in Old Elvet.

Before the Cathedral is a large open area, now called the Palace Green, formerly crowded with houses, which were all removed before the year 1109, from whence the spectator is at once presented with the view of the Cathedral and Castle the latter being on the north side, and is the residence of the bishop when he visits Durham. It is generally allowed that the first building of this castle is to be attributed to William the Conqueror, who, in the year 1072, ordered a fortress to be erected here, at once to secure the governor of this province from tumults and insurrections, and also to protect the bishop and his church.

A part of this castle was formerly destroyed by fire, but was soon after repaired by Bishop Pudsey, who was elected in the year 1153 Bishop Hatfield, about the year 1348, made great additions to it by erecting the great hall, and also the constable’s hall; but this room, which is described, as having "two princely seats, one at each end," was altered by Bishop Fox about the year 1494, who took away that at the lower end and converted that part into a kitchen and steward’s apartments; he had likewise begun several other alterations, when he was translated. Bishop Tunstall, elected in the year 1530, built the gallery and chapel adjoining to it; he also erected the present gateway and tower, and flanked it with a strong wall on either side; the bason or water conduit, which supplies the castle with water, was likewise built by him. Bishop Neil, about the year 1619, enlarged the windows, and expended 3,000l. in the reparation of this fabric. In the great rebellion, this castle was sold, on the second of May, 1649, to Thomas Andrews, lord-mayor of London, who so miserably defaced a great part of it, that it was some time before it could be made habitable for Bishop Cosin, who almost renovated it, by making many considerable alterations and additions.—Bishop Crew greatly adorned it by putting in several new windows, enlarging the chapel, and rebuilding part of the tower, which had fallen down. Bishop Butler, in the year 1752, began to rebuild a great part of the north wall, and put in several new Gothic windows, which were finished by his successor, Bishop Trevor, who made considerable additions. Under the direction of the present bishop several improvements have been made, and a most beautiful archway in the gallery, supposed to have been stopped up several centuries, again opened. In several of the apartments and on the staircase are some paintings ; but the principal ornaments of this description are removed to the palace at Bishop Auckland.

The great tower of this castle stands upon a mount 44 feet from the level of the Palace Green, and is an ill-formed octagon of irregular sides ; the diameter in the widest part is 63 feet, four inches ; the narrowest 61 feet. It contained four tiers of apartments, exclusive of the vaults. Nothing now remains but the mount, vaults, and a part of the shell; the upper part, having become very ruinous, was ordered to be taken down by Bishop Thurlow, in the year 1789. Round the mount are three terraces, which command a beautiful view of the city and its environs, and also a considerable extent of the adjacent country. On the east, and contiguous to the keep, stood till 1820, the great north gateway, which was erected by Bishop Langley, and was till that time used as the County Jail. The building has been removed, and on the site, at the west side of the old gateway, is erected an elegant building for a Subscription Library and News Room. On the opposite side of the old gateway shops have been built, over which is a spacious room used as the hall of the provincial grand-master of freemasons for the county of Durham.

On the west side of the Palace Green is a square fabric, called the Exchequer, in which the courts of chancery, exchequer, auditor, &c. are now held; it was erected by Bishop Nevill, about the year 1450. Adjoining is the bishop’s library, erected by Bishop Cosin, and a little farther distant is the Registry Office, built by public subscription, upwards of one-half of the expence of which was contributed by the present bishop (Barrington). On the opposite side are the Almshouses, founded likewise by Bishop Cosin in the year 1666, for four poor men and four poor women. At each end of the hospital is a school house of the foundation of Bishop Langley.

The Market-place is a large and spacious square, well-built; in the centre is a fountain of excellent water; the reservoir is of an octagonal form, on which is a fine statue of Neptune, which was placed there in the year 1729. Near this fountain was an old cross, erected by Thomas Emmerson, Esq. of London, whose arms were placed on the west side with the date, 1617 ; it had a large pillar in the middle, ornamented with a dial, but becoming ruinous, the corporation ordered it to be taken down, and with the materials was erected a large and handsome piazza at the foot of the square, where the markets for corn, provisions, &c. are now held. The market day is on Saturday.

Near this piazza, on the north side, is the guildhall or tolbooth, which was first erected by Bishop Tunstall, about the year 1555, with apartments behind for public festivals. In the year 1752, George Bowes, Esq. repaired and beautified the back room, in which are two large and elegant paintings of King Charles the Second, and Bishop Crew. The large room in front, where all public meetings are held, was taken down and rebuilt in the year 1754. On the top of this building is a large cupola.

Close by the guildhall is a large square building, called the New Place, supposed to have belonged formerly to the Neville family; it was purchased by the citizens in the year 1612, for the purpose of setting up a cloth manufactory, but that has since been removed into the Back Lane ; a portion of it is now used as a workhouse, and in some of the upper parts the charity schools, which were first founded about the year 1718, were kept till the new buildings in Claypath were completed a few years ago, where the school was removed.

Among the public buildings lately erected in the city and suburbs, is the New Gaol, House of Correction, County Court Houses, and Governor’s House, at the head of Old Elvet. This extensive building has cost the county upwards of 120,000l. The prison is conducted on the system recommended by the Society for Encouraging Prison Discipline. A tread-mill has lately been fitted up in this prison, which is used for grinding corn. The fraternity of freemasons of Durham nave built a handsome little brick building near to the Methodists Chapel, in Old Elvet, where they hold their meetings. The Blue Coat and Sunday Schools are spacious buildings, situate in an airy situation on the south side of Claypath. The schools are conducted upon Dr. Bell’s plan, and the number of scholars, boys and girls amount to upwards of 250, who are all taught gratis. The schools are supported chiefly by voluntary subscriptions.

The old gateway, called Claypath-gate, which was situated at the end of St. Nicholas’s church, being adjudged to be a nuisance, was removed in the year 1791.

At the southern entrance to the city is Elvet Bridge, consisting of nine or ten arches, on which were formerly two chapels ; it was erected by Bishop Pudsey, about the year 1170. Framwellgate Bridge, which is situated at the northern extremity of the city, was erected by Bishop Flambard, about the year 1120. This bridge has one pier and two elliptic arches of 90 feet span, so flat as to be constructed on the quarter section of a circle, calculated to suit the low shores on each side. A large gateway tower, which formerly stood at the city end of this bridge, was taken down in the year 1760, for the convenience of carriages. About 360 yards further up the river is the New Bridge, which was erected by the dean and chapter, in the room of a narrow ope which stood a little further up the river, and was carried away by the great flood in the year 1771. This elegant structure is built upon a beautiful modern plan, the arches semicircular, with a balustraded battlement. It was planned and executed by Mr. George Nicholson, architect; it was begun in the year 1772, and finished in the year 1777. Between this bridge and St. Oswald’s Church are the public walks called the Banks, which were made and are still kept in repair by the dean and chapter, whose attention in this and many other instances, to the convenience of the public, is deserving, of, the, most grateful acknowledgments, "These celebrated walks," says Mr. Warner in his Northern Tour, "accompany the bending of the stream, and command several interesting peeps at the city, and its august ornaments, the Castle and Cathedral. The banks, rocky and abrupt on one hand, and sloping to the river on the other, darkened by a solemn depth of shade, sequestered and retired, in the immediate neighbourhood of a busy scene of society, afford a retreat of the most agreeable nature. The variety of the scenes which they open also is remarkable : deep glades; and solemn dells ; scarred rock, and verdant lawn ; sylvan glades, and proud castellated edifices. From the elegant new bridge, the last-mentioned feature is seen to great effect; the Castle and Cathedral blend their battlements and turrets together, and rise with inconceivable majesty from the sacred groves which clothe their rocky foundations. The combination here of trees and buildings, water and rock, home sylvan scenery and fine distance, is at once beautiful and grand." There are several public charities belonging to this city; the principal is that of Mr. Smith, who by his will, dated July 20, 1598, bequeathed all his coal-mines, then worth 100l. per annum, besides a very considerable personal estate, to the corporation of this city, "that some good trade may be devised for setting of the youth and other idle persons to work, as shall be thought most convenient, whereby some profit may arise to the benefit of the said city." This charity was soon after employed in establishing a cloth manufactory ; but from the knavery of some of the cloth-workers who were entrusted with the money, the governors, in the year 1619, devised a different mode of disposing of the property, by laying it out in land. Other attempts, at different times, also were made to establish a manufactory, but they proved in general unsuccessful, till the direction of the business fell to the care of Mr. J. Starforth, in the year 1759, by whose prudent management the manufactory gradually arrived at a very great degree of perfection. It is now carried on briskly by Mr. Gilbert Henderson, and affords employment to a great number of men and boys. To carry on this extensive business a number of new buildings have been erected in Back Lane, for the accommodation of the wool-combers, dyers, &c. They have also begun to make carpets, which are now brought to the highest degree of perfection.

An infirmary has also been established in this city, where the sick are admitted without expence, a spacious and convenient building having been erected for that purpose in Allergate ;" a Subscription Library has likewise been founded, which possesses a very extensive collection of the best standard works. The subscribers to it are very numerous. A new Theater was built in Sadler Street, in the year 1791. The recreation of the inhabitants is likewise farther provided for by a Race Course, where there are races in July, which continue for four days.

Among other associations for benevolent purposes in this city, are, the Society for Encouragement of Parochial Schools. A Bible Association. A Religious Tract Society. A Ladies’ Society for assisting poor married women, &c. And the Durham Diocesan Society for promoting Christian Knowledge.

In the vicinity of this city are several very good coal-works, from whence the inhabitants are plentifully supplied with excellent coals at very reasonable rates.

The first charter now extant was granted to this city, by Bishop Pudsey, about the year 1179, in which he grants to the burgesses, as they are there Styled, an exemption from all tolls, and also the same privileges as were enjoyed by the burgesses of Newcastle. In several subsequent deeds, granted by the succeeding prelates, they are still called by the same title of burgesses. During all this time the government of the city continued under bailiffs, appointed by the bishop. There is, however, an instance of Bishop Neville’s appointing a marshall or clerk of the market, in the year 1448. About this time also several of the crafts, "who had exercised their trades within the city, were under special restrictions and bye-laws framed by themselves, and confirmed by the prelates in whose times they were respectively instituted, thus obtaining the face of a charter."Stolen from Fore-bears

The first charter of incorporation was granted, January the 30th, 1565, by bishop Pilkington, by which the city was incorporated by the name of an alderman and burgesses within the city of Durham and Framwellgate, besides several other privileges. Under this charter the city was then governed, till Bishop Matthews granted a new charter in the year 1602, whereby the burgesses and inhabitants were constituted a body politic and corporate, consisting of a mayor, 12 aldermen, and commonalty, with divers privileges, and a power to purchase lands, not exceeding 100 marks a year. This charter was confirmed by King James I. in the year 1606, and continued in force till the year 1684, when it was surrendered to Bishop Crew, who granted immediately a new charter of incorporation; but some informality having been discovered in the form of surrendering up the old charter, it was deemed illegal, and the corporation still subsisted under Matthews’ charter till the year 1766, when information having been filed in the Court of King’s Bench against several of the aldermen, as being non-residents, or not legally qualified at the time of their election, they were ousted from their offices. Some irregularities having also been committed, both on the election of the common-council, in the year 1765, which affected the title of mayor to his office, to which he was elected the day following, and from which he was ejected by the judgment of the Court of King’s Bench soon after; from the above causes, as well as the natural deaths of some of the old aldermen, the number of aldermen was so reduced, as not to be able to constitute a court. In consequence the charter became vacated, and the city continued under the government of a bailiff, till the year 1780, when a new charter, dated October the second, was granted by Bishop Egerton, in which the defects of the old charters were remedied, and the powers and privileges of the corporation and citizens confirmed. Under this charter the city is now governed. The members of this corporation are, a mayor, recorder, 12 aldermen, town-clerk, 24 common-council-men, an indefinite number of freemen, and two sergeants-at-mace. The common-council are chosen from the twelve incorporated companies, viz. two each from the company of mercers and grocers, drapers and taylors, skinners and glovers, tanners, weavers, dyers and fullers, cordwainers, sadlers, smiths, butchers, carpenters and joiners, and free and rough masons. There are also three other companies, viz. the goldsmiths and plumbers, curriers and chandlers, and barbers and ropers, which have no common-council.

There are three great fairs held here every year, for horned cattle, sheep, and horses, on the 31st of March, Whit-Tuesday, and September 15. On these occasions the court of pye-powder is always held by the corporation. The fair in March is much resorted to by the principal horse-dealers from the south, on account of the great number of excellent horses which are bred in the adjacent country, and which are usually brought in for sale at this time. In 1819, when so much distress was felt by the Agricultural Interest in the country, owing to the depressed state of prices of produce, an Association was formed here of the leading Agriculturalists of the county, for the purpose of protecting the English farmer against the ruinous introduction into this, kingdom of foreign grain, except under such restrictions as would enable him to compete with the foreign grower. They hold their meeting's quarterly, at the Hat and Feather Inn, in the Marketplace. Mr. John Wood, of Kimblesworth, Secretary and Treasurer.

The Post-Office is in Sadler Street; Postmaster, Mr. Thomas Robinson. The mail arrives from the south at four o’clock every morning, from the north, at four o’clock every afternoon, only remaining at Durham a sufficient time to change horses. The mail from Sunderland arrives at half-past three o’clock every day, and leaves Durham at five o’clock the next morning. There are two newspapers published in Durham, the only papers in the county. The "Durham County Advertiser," was established in 1814, and is published on Fridays, with an edition on Saturdays. The "Durham Chronicle," was established in 1820, and is published every week on Fridays.

The town is paved, flagged, lighted, and watched, under the direction of commissioners, appointed for that purpose by an act of Parliament, passed in the 30th of Geo. III. and considerably amended in the 3rd year of Geo. IV. To defray the expence, toll-bars are erected at the different avenues leading to the city, where toll is collected, which, in addition to a trifling assessment, made upon the householders, is sufficient for all the purposes of regulating the town. A society has lately been established in Durham, called a debating club, for the purpose of discussing questions more particularly connected with Laws, of which profession all the young men composing the society are members. They meet, at rooms taken for the purpose, in a house in New Elvet.

This city was not represented in parliament till the 25th of Charles II. when, by a special act of parliament, they were enabled to send two citizens, to be elected by the mayor, aldermen, and freemen. The number of electors is about 1000. The famous Durham act was occasioned by some illegal proceedings in the admission of freemen, during a contested election in the year 1762; by this act, all persons were restricted from voting who had not been possessed of their franchise twelve calendar months previous to the day of election, except those entitled to their freedom by the custom of the borough.

The city of Durham is situated near the centre of the county, being 15 miles south from Gateshead, miles from Darlington, and 260 from London. It contains 1169 houses, and 9822 inhabitants, being 4476 males, and. 5346 females, of whom 1362 were returned as being employed in trade and manufacture.

About three quarters of a mile to the east of Durham is Old Durham, which Mr. Hutchinson supposes to have been formerly occupied by the Saxons. Here are excellent public gardens, which attract swarms of company. Opposite to Old Durham, on the south side of the Wear, is the site of an ancient fortification, called Maiden Castle, which occupied the summit of Maiden Castle Scar, and was thus described by our author:—" The castle is inaccessible from the river by reason of the steepness of the cliff, which is almost perpendicular, and about 100 feet in height. On the right and left the steep sides of the mount are covered with a thick forest of oaks: the crown of the mount consists of a level area or plain, 40 paces wide on the Scar, on the front or north-east side; 160 paces long, on the left-hand side ; and 170 paces on the right. The approach from the south-west is fortified with a ditch and breast-work : the entrance, or passage over the ditch, is not in the middle, but made to correspond, with the natural rise of the outward ground ; the ditch is 12 paces wide, and runs with a little curvature to each edge of the slope, now covered with wood, as before noted, on one hand 50 paces in length, on the other 80 paces. After passing the ditch, there is a level parade or platform, paces wide, and then a high earth fence, now nine feet in perpendicular, which it is apprehended was laced with mason-work : a breast-work has run from the earth-fence on each side along the brink of the hill, to the edge of the cliff or scar. The earth-fence closes the whole neck of laud, and is in length 100 paces, forming the south-west side of the area."

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DURHAM, an ancient city and municipal and parliamentary borough, the capital of the county palatine, see of a bishop, and seat of a university, head of a union, petty sessional division and county court district, in the Mid division of the county, and beautifully and centrally situated in one of the most picturesque parts of the county, 256 miles from London, 132 from Edinburgh, 67 north-north-west from York, 67 east from Carlisle, and 15 south from Newcastle by road, with a station on the main line of the North Eastern railway from York to Newcastle, 70 miles north from the former and 15 ½ south from the latter: there are branches to Bishop Auckland and Sunderland: in 1872 the main line was brought through Durham by a loop line leaving the old main line at Ferryhill, 5 miles south, and joining it again at Newtonhall Junction, about 2 miles north from the city: the station, opened in 1856 and enlarged in 1872, is situated on a high point northeast of the city in the north road, contiguous to which is a grand viaduct of eleven noble arches.

The city, which occupies a peninsula of considerable height, is bounded on three sides by the river Wear, which flows round it in the form of a horse-shoe. The ancient houses in the higher portions, with their sloping gardens interspersed with trees, contribute much to the effect, while, towering majestically above the embattled walls which surround the rocky and thickly wooded steep, rises the splendid pile of the ancient castle and the stately towers of the cathedral church. The city is approached on either side by three bridges, Framwellgate bridge and the Prebends’ bridge on the west, and by another on the north-east: Framwellgate bridge, first erected by Bishop Flambard in 1120, was rebuilt in the 15th century, and is a structure of two rib-groined arches, each of 90 feet span: the Prebends’ bridge was built by the dean and chapter in 1772; near the middle of the city is the market place, from which point the three leading streets diverge-Claypath, extending northwards nearly a mile, and including St. Giles’ gate, being on the high road to Sherburn and Pittington: the eastern division of the city comprises Old and New Elvet-two large streets, which are approached by Elvet bridge; the former contains many large, well-built houses, and at its termination is the handsome court-house and county gaol: the western division comprises Framwellgate and Milburngate, which run northwards some distance from the river, the New North road, Crossgate and Allergate being between them.

Durham first became a borough in 1189, when it received from Hugh Pudsey, then bishop, a charter conveying definite municipal privileges, and vesting its government in a bailiff, and this charter was confirmed by Pope Alexander III: additional privileges were conceded by succeeding bishops, and in 1586 a corporation was formed by joining with the bailiff an alderman and twelve assistant burgesses: in 1602, the municipal body was extended and remodelled by Bishop Mathews, the new corporation consisting of a mayor, 12 aldermen and 24 councillors, selected annually by the aldermen from the various trade guilds: the charter of this bishop, confirmed by James I. continued in force until 1684, when it was surrendered, and a fresh one granted, but the surrender being deemed informal, the old charter was revived till 1761, when owing to dissensions it lapsed, and the ancient government by a bailiff only was renewed and maintained up to 1780, in which year Bishop Egerton, by a new charter, re-established the administration of the borough under a mayor, aldermen and councillors, and this remained the governing charter until the passing of the Municipal Corporations Act of 1835 (5 & 6 William IV. c. 76), The municipal borough is divided into three wards, named respectively South, North and St. Nicholas, and the corporation consists of a mayor, 6 aldermen, 18 councillors and the usual officers.

The city formerly returned two members to Parliament, but under the provisions of the “Redistribution of Seats Act, 1885,” the number was reduced to one.

The city was first lighted with gas in the year 1823, and is now lighted from works situated on the banks of the river near Framwellgate, the property of the City of Durham Gas Co. A water company established in May, 1849, to supply the inhabitants of Durham, was in January, 1880, amalgamated with the Weardale and Shildon District Water Works Co. who now supply the city by gravitation from their works at Waskerley.

The see of Durham originated from that of Lindisfarne, founded by St. Aidan of Iona in 635, and there maintained until the episcopate of Bishop Eardulph (854-900), who on account of the Danish incursions in Northumbria, removed the bishopstool to Chester-le-Street, which continued to be the head of the see until in 995 Bishop Aldwin or Aldhun, translated it to Durham: of the bishops of Lindisfarne, the most famous, next to St. Aidan, was St. Cuthbert, a man probably of English origin and humble parentage, and in his youth a shepherd boy in the neighbourhood of Melrose abbey, of which at a later period he became an inmate, and thenceforward devoted himself to the religious life: in 664 he left Melrose to become prior of Lindisfarne, and in 676 adopted the life of a hermit, till, in 685, he was unanimously chosen Bishop of Lindisfarne in succession to Eata: two years afterwards, being sensible of his approaching end, he returned to his solitary cell at Farne, and there died, as vividly related by Bede, in 687: eleven years after his death his remains were disinterred by the monks of Lindisfarne, and placed in a wooden coffin or shrine, fragments of which still exist; in 875, the relics, together with the head of St. Oswald, king of Northumbria, and remains of other bishops, were removed for safety by Bishop Eardulph and his monks, who for eight years travelled with their treasures through a great part of the north of England, and having, in 883, remained for a while at Crayke in Yorkshire, settled at Chester-le-Street, and here the relics were piously guarded till the final removal of the see to Durham in 995.

The cathedral of St. Cuthbert, which occupies a site almost unique among English cathedrals, is built upon a plateau of 110 great extent, rising high above the precipitous and wooded right bank of the river Wear; closely connected with it on the north is the ancient palace castle of the palatine bishops; to the south extend the lofty embattled and buttressed walls inclosing the precinct, and the effect of these splendid piles, viewed either from the Prebendaries’ bridge or on the north from Elvet banks, is grand and striking in the extreme, and has perhaps 110 parallel in the world. The first church built on this spot was that reared by Bishop Aldhun, and completed in 999, on which the body of St. Cuthbert, which had been temporarily placed in a small wooden building, was reverently transferred and deposited in the new church on the 4th September in that year. Aldhun’s church continued to exist until the close of the 11th century, when William de St. Carilef began the erection of the present magnificent structure, the foundation stone of which was laid 11th August, 1093: the erection of the monastery had, however, been proceeded with since 1088, and of this work the earliest portion now existing is the crypt beneath the refectory: Bishop Carilef, before his death in 1096, completed the choir, with its vaulted aisles, the arcade and triforium on the east side of the transepts, and one bay of the nave, including a great part of the exterior wall; in the interval between his decease and the appointment of his successor (1096-9) the transepts were finished, and the northern limb vaulted: Flambard, the next bishop, built the nave and aisles, vaulting the latter, and carried the erection of the western towers up to the full height of the nave walls; and in the interval before the accession of Bishop Geoffrey Rufus (1128-33) the monks vaulted the nave and the south transept: Bishop Rufus is said to have completed the now mutilated chapter house, and to him also may be attributed the existing north and south doorways of the nave: Bishop Hugh Pudsey, or de Puiset (1153-95), began a chapel at the east end of the choir, but becoming, on account of some failures, superstitiously dissatisfied with his work, he transferred the whole to the west end and there erected the exquisite structure now called the “Galilee,” and he probably built the exterior portion of the south-east doorway of the cloister; the crypt under the dormitory (c. 1208) may be attributed to Bishop de Pictavia. and the upper part of the western towers to Bishop de Maris, co (1217-26): Thomas de Melsanby, one of the most distinguished of the priors of Durham, began in 1242 the erection of the eastern transept, called the “Nine Altars,” which compelled the destruction of the semicircular apse, believed to have terminated the choir as left by Carilef: the vaulting of this transept and that of the choir was actively proceeding towards the close of the 13th century, and was still unfinished in 1278: between 1368 and 1370 the kitchen of the monastery was built, and in 1390 the present cloisters were begun by Bishop Skirlaw, but not completed till 1418; the dormitory as now existing was erected by the same prelate between 1398 and 1404: Cardinal Langley (1406-37) extensively repaired the Galilee, at a cost of about £500, and began the rebuilding of the central tower, which had been damaged by fire in 1429, and this important work was completed in 1490 by Bishop Sherwood: during the period 1775-95 the renovation of the fabric was entrusted to the notorious James Wyatt, under whose direction the exterior walls of the western towers, the north side and the east end were re-faced by cutting away the masonry to a depth of about four inches: not less than 1,000 tons of stone were thus removed, and the total cost amounted to £30,000; he also made considerable alterations in the “Nine Altars,” and added parapets and pinnacled turrets to the western towers: in 1796-7, at the suggestion of the chapter architect, the fine Norman chapter house was almost wholly destroyed: the south front of the cathedral was restored in 1849, under the superintendence of Mr. Pickering, architect; the dorter (dormitory) in 1849-53, the cloisters in 1856-7, and in 1859 the central tower, which had been covered with yellow cement in 1812 by Mr. Atkinson, was carefully restored under the direction of the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott R. A. who also, between the years 1869-76, effected a thorough restoration of the rest of the building, which was reopened 18th and 19th October, 1876.

The cathedral, as now existing, consists of a choir of five bays, with aisles and eastern transept or chapel of the “Nine Altars,” transepts with eastern aisles, nave of four main and as many sub-bays, western Galilee arranged in five aisles, north porch and central and two western towers: the total length, measured internally, is 469 feet 6 inches, the length of the choir being about 132 feet and that of the nave 201, and the general width, including the aisles, about 60 feet: the eastern transept is 131 by 38 feet 6 inches and the main transept 132 by 58 feet, including its aisles: the interior height varies from 72 to 77 feet: the central tower, about 40 feet square, attains a height of 218 feet and the western towers of 144 feet 6 inches: the central tower contains a clock and a fine peal of 8 bells. The cathedral is approached by way of narrow streets through the Castle green, a Tailing marking the division between the ancient domain of the bishops and the precincts of the convent: the church is entered by the north doorway, a good example of late Norman work, which originally had two small rooms over it: these 110 longer exist, and the arch is encumbered with a pediment and incongruous flanking turrets, erected by Wyatt: on the doorway is the historic knocker by which fugitives applied for sanctuary, a grotesque metal head with a ring in its mouth. The general aspect of the interior, viewed from the west end of the nave, is full of grandeur and impressiveness, arising both from the massive and uniform character of the architecture and its freedom from the intrusion of monuments or incongruous modern sculpture, and it has gained much interest and beauty by the erection, in 1876, of a noble screen between the nave and choir, but there is still a want of good stained glass: the arcades of the nave consist of four main piers, formed by huge masses of masonry on a cruciform plan with attached shafts, and four intermediate cylindrical piers, deeply incised with chevron and lattice-work ornament; these have cushion caps and support round arches, mostly enriched with zigzag moulding: the triforium consists in each bay of similar arches on plain clustered shafts, inclosing two smaller arches, with a blind tympanum above: in front of the main piers vaulting shafts are carried up almost to the clerestory, which has in each division a large circular arch with a smaller and lower one on each side, and a wall passage runs between the window and these arches; the vaulting, which dates from the early part of the 12th century, is quadripartite, the ribs being enriched with zigzag work: the nave aisles date from the same period as the nave itself and are similar in style: a portion of the east end of the south aisle was anciently inclosed by screens and formed the Nevill chantry; here were ultimately buried, in 1416, Ralph, and Baron Nevill, of Raby ob. 1367, and Alice (de Audley), his wife, ob. 1374, who had been primarily interred in the nave; here also were buried his eldest son, Sir John de Nevill K.G. 3rd baron, ob. 17th October, 1388, and Maud (Percy), his wife; and also Robert de Nevill, 6th son of Ralph, 1st Earl of Westmoreland, and bishop of Durham (1437-1457), whose tombstone, without its brass, remains: the mutilated altar-tombs of the two former, once in the chantry, are now placed under the arcades; they bear shattered recumbent effigies, and that of John de Nevill exhibits on the sides, under projecting embattled canopies, small headless figures of children, alternating with the shields of Nevill and Percy, in upright foliated panels: in the south aisle is a monument, with bust, to Sir George Wheeler kt. D.D. canon of Durham and an eminent traveller, d. 18th February, 1723-4: on the north side of the nave is a monument with semi-recumbent figure to Dr. James Britton, for 30 years master of Durham School, d. 1836; and under the north-west tower are memorials to Thomas Zouch D.D. rector of Wycliffe and prebendary of this cathedral, biographer and theologian, d. 17 Dec. 1815, and to the Sharpe family, by Chantrey: the great west window, inserted by Prior Fossor (1342-74), was filled with stained glass in 1867, representing the “Root of Jesse,” at the cost of the late Dean Waddington, and the stained windows at the west end of the aisles were presented by Bishop Maltby in 1848: there is also a memorial window in the north aisle to the Rev. Henry Joseph Maltby, canon of Durham, d. 24th Nov. 1863, and to his two sons; and others in both aisles, illustrating the early ecclesiastical history of Northumbria. The existing floor dates only from the last century, but retains, between the second piers from the west end, a large cross of blue stone, beyond which, it is said, women were not permitted to advance. The marble pulpit, which stands on the south side of the nave, next the choir screen, is octagonal, and stands on open trefoiled arches, springing from shafts of verde antique with carved caps; these in turn rest on crouching lions, and the whole has a base of dark marble, with a larger shaft in the centre: the upper portion is panelled with coloured marbles, and at the angles are single shafts, enriched by spiral bands studded with precious stones; on the opposite side of the nave stands the lectern, a highly wrought work in brass, the desk for which is formed by the representation of a pelican in her piety, and on either side is a branching candelabrum; the figure of the pelican is silvered and bears a bible bound in velvet and richly ornamented with silver filigree work and jewels. The font, introduced in 1846, is a modern work of Caen stone, in imitation of the Norman style, with carvings in low relief on the sides, representing scenes in the life of St. Cuthbert, but has a lofty octagonal canopy of oak, put up in Bishop Cosin’s time: the font of white marble previously in use, and given by the Dean and Chapter in 1620, is now in Pittington church. The western doorways of the nave all now open into the Galilee, the floor of which has a slightly lower level and is laid on the solid rock: it is 76 feet wide from north to south, by 46 in length, and consists of five parallel aisles, divided by elegant arcades of four bays each, in the Transition-Norman style: the piers, originally of two slender shafts, were converted into four by Bishop Langley, and support semicircular arches, with alternate plain and zigzag mouldings, which have been slightly enriched with colour: the present windows are of the 13th and 15th centuries: under the second aisle on the south side is the altar tomb of the Venerable Bede, whose enshrined relics were placed on this spot in 1370; at the Reformation the shrine was broken up, the remains interred and the existing tomb erected over them; in 1831, May 27, being the anniversary of Bede’s death, the tomb was examined and the relics replaced in an oaken chest; and there was then incised on a slab the traditional epitaph :-“hac svnt in fossa bedae venerabilis ossa :” in the east wall, over the great doorway, reopened in 1846, is a Latin inscription having reference to the Consistory Court, which was once held here; here Bishop Langley, on building up the doorway, erected an altar to the Virgin, inclosing it with screens, and before it a tomb for himself: on the north, in a recessed arch, was an altar to “Our Lady of Pity,” and the recess still displays some beautiful and well preserved frescoes of contemporary date; including figures of St. Oswald the King and St. Cuthbert: on the south side are traces of the altar of Bede: in the west wall are two recesses of Perpendicular date, formed by exterior projections carried on arches and lighted by small square windows: the north doorway, closed by Bishop Langley, has been reopened and very carefully restored; on the north side is a plain altar tomb, inscribed to Capt. R. M. Hunter, who fell at the battle of Ferozeshah, Dec. 21, 1845, during the Sikh war: the whole Galilee, it appears, would have been removed by Wyatt in 1796 but for the remonstrances of the Society of Antiquaries of London, to whose efforts, stimulated by Mr. John Carter F.S.A. the well-known architectural draughtsman, its preservation is chiefly due.

The great transept continues the triforium and clerestory of the nave, and has stair turrets at its north-west and southwest angles by which these were reached; on the east side of each limb were formerly three chapels with their respective altars: the large window at the end of the northern limb, erected by Prior Fossor and restored by Prior Castell, is of late Decorated character, and in 1875 was filled with stained glass by public subscription as a memorial to the Right Hon. John Robert Davison M.P. for Durham and Judge Advocate General, d. 15 April, 1871: here also is a monument by Rickman to the Rev. John Carr, 22 years master of Durham school, d. 1833: the glass in the great window of the southern limb, inserted in February, 1869, at a cost of £650, forms a memorial to the Ven. Charles Thorp D.D. archdeacon of Durham and warden of the university, and illustrates the Te Deum: in this transept is a monument with kneeling effigy by Chantrey to Bishop Shute Barrington D.C.L. who held the see 57 years, and died 25 March, 1826, and another to the officers of the 68th regiment (1st battalion Durham Light Infantry) who fell during the Crimean war (1854-6).

Previous to the Reformation the nave was separated from the eastern portion of the church by a stone screen erected between the western piers of the central tower and by wooden screens across the aisles, but all these had either been removed or were ruinous on the appointment, in 1660, of Bishop Cosin, who erected in their place, between the eastern piers of the tower, a magnificent screen of elaborately and richly carved oak, on which the organ was placed, the whole structure, however, was removed in 1847, and in part converted into panelling for the castle, and the choir, previously deprived of some of its side screens in 1844, lost much of its effect until the erection of the present choir screen about 1876; this is a work of bold but elegant design consisting of three trefoil-headed arches, springing from clustered and banded shafts, and surmounted by an enriched horizontal cornice with an elaborate open-worked cresting; the central arch has a lofty triangular head inclosing a eusped vesica, the sides are adorned with scrolled crocketing and from the apex rises a circular-headed cross; the whole is composed of marble and alabaster, and is inlaid with coloured marbles and gems: the architecture of the choir is of mixed character, chiefly Norman, but its eastern portion, including the aisles, is Early Decorated; some of the massive Norman piers here, as well as in the transept, are ornamented with spiral grooving, a feature not seen in the nave, and the triforium and clerestory also present constructive differences: the vaulting, which dates from the close of the 13th century, is enriched with dog-tooth and billet mouldings and bosses of foliage: the great eastern arch, opening from the choir to the Nine Altars, is almost entirely filled by the altar screen, a lofty and beautiful work of Dorsetshire clunch, brought from London to Newcastle by sea, and erected in 1380 at a cost of 700 marks (£416 13s. 4d.), chiefly defrayed by Sir John de Nevill K.G. 3rd baron Nevill of Raby; it consists of light and elegant open canopies in two tiers, the uppermost rising into richly crocketed spirelets, and was restored in 1846 at a cost of £637; it was once coloured and gilt, and its niches contained 107 figures, all now lost: on each side are four sedilia, and cusped doorways, adorned with the Nevill arms, and leading to the platform of St. Cuthbert’s shrine: west of the sedilia, on each side of choir, is a small aumbry: the present reredos takes the place of a large sculptured copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper,” placed in 1849 at a cost of £100: the holy table consists of a slab of red marble on six shafts of the same material, and was probably erected by Dean Hunt (1620-38): beneath the central arch of the arcade on the south side is the episcopal throne, erected by Bishop de Hatfield (1345-81), it is built over the altar tomb of the bishop, which also was erected by him during his lifetime, and stands within an arched canopied recess, the groining of which is ornamented with bosses of boldly sculptured foliage, the sides of the tomb are arcaded and on the upper slab lies a full-length recumbent effigy of alabaster mitred and vested: the throne, placed on the platform above, is approached by steps at the east end, the front of which is relieved by an arcading richly foliated and adorned with brackets and shields of arms: at the back of the throne a mass of open tracery and crocketed canopies rises to the crown of the arch, the stalls, erected by Bishop Cosin in place of those destroyed by Scottish prisoners confined here after the battle of Dunbar, (3 September, 1650), are remarkable for their curious reproduction of features characteristic of the Perpendicular style; the ancient return stalls, however, were not renewed: the organ, now divided into two parts, and placed, in 1846, on either side of the choir, was originally built by Bernhard Schmidt about 1684, but was much altered and enlarged in 1823 and in 1844-7, and has been rebuilt by Willis; the cases were designed by Mr. C. Hodgson Fowler F.R.I.B.A., F.S.A.: on the floor immediately in front of the sacrarium is a large slab containing the matrix of a brass of great size, discovered beneath the pavement in 1848, and believed to cover the grave of Bishop de Beaumont, ob. 1333: in the choir were also interred Bishop Pilkington, ob. 1575, Bishop James, ob. 1617, and Dean Sudbury, ob. 1684: the choir aisles, architecturally, follow the choir; in the north aisle is a stone bench, erected by Bishop Skirlaw (ob. 1405), who is buried close by: in the south aisle is the tomb of Emeric de Lumley, prior of Lytham (Lancs.), circ. 1333, and of Finchale, 1342: a Decorated doorway in this aisle opened to the re-vestry, a fine building of the 13th century, over 100 feet in length, and rich in stained glass, but entirely destroyed in 1802.

The Eastern transept, or chapel of the “Nine Altars,” entered from the choir aisles by a descent of two steps, exhibits the Early English style in its greatest perfection, and affords a very striking contrast to the massive Norman work of the nave and choir: it consists of three main bays, those on the north and south being sub-divided into three by clustered vaulting shafts and vaulting, the ribs of the latter are much enriched, and meet in wreathed bosses of carved foliage: the central bay has in its upper stage a great rose window, restored by Wyatt in 1795, and about 90 feet in circumference; it contains ancient glass collected from various parts of the church and placed here together with modern additions in 1839, the lower-stage has three large lancets, deeply splayed, and in each of the side bays is a single lancet, set in like manner; most of these windows, as well as the fine Geometrical window at the north end of the transept, were filled with stained glass in 1877 at a cost of £3,000, raised by public subscription, but one, inserted by the Rev. John Vane in 1865, is a memorial to Michael Angelo Taylor esq. some time M.P. for the city, and there are others to the late John Fawcett esq. and J. Burrell esq.: the lower portion of the wall all round the transept, except where interrupted by the clustered vaulting shafts, is covered by a singularly beautiful arcade of trefoiled arches, with quatrefoils above; it was restored in 1862 at a cost of £600, but is unfortunately deprived of much of its effect by the insertion of memorial tablets: the western side, which was the last finished, inclines strongly to the Decorated style, and on this side, at the back of the altar screen, filling the space between the piers of the eastern arch and projecting into the transept, is the platform (37 by 23 feet), on which the shrine of St. Cuthbert anciently stood, and beneath which his bones still rest: the east side is adorned with arcading and on the south side remains one of the two staircases which led up to the shrine from either end: the actual shrine of gold and enamel, hung about with jewels and rich gifts, was despoiled and destroyed by the Commissioners of Henry VIII. in 1540, and the iron-bound chest containing the relics of the saint was removed into the re-vestry until by permission of the king in 1542 it was inclosed in a new chest and buried under a slab of marble at a spot where the feretory had previously stood: on 17 May, 1827, in the presence of several members of the chapter, the spot was examined and found to be a walled grave containing three coffins or chests, the innermost of which, rudely incised with figures of apostles, saints, other figures and inscriptions, was 110 doubt that in which the relics were placed at Lindisfarne in 698, and contained a skeleton enwrapped in rich robes, a separate skull, concluded to be that of St. Oswald, a stole and maniple, and other objects, the bones of the two saints, inclosed in a new chest, were re-interred, but portions of the ancient coffin and all the other relics were removed, and are now in the library: at the north end of the transept is the plain blue slab covering the grave of Bishop Anthony Bek, ob. 1311, and near it a fine seated figure of Bishop Van Mildert (d. 21 February 1836), executed at Rome, by Gibson: here also is the grave of George Stephen Kemble, the actor, d. 5 June, 1822: at the south end was buried Bishop de Bury, ob. 1345, and on the south wall is a monument to the Hon. and Rev. Gerald Valerian Wellesley D.D. prebendary of Durham, d. 24 October, 1848: the building was once rich in stained glass; the large rose window at the east end having been filled by Richard Pickeringe, rector of Hemingbrough (1409-13), at a cost of £14, and the rest of the eastern transept received Perpendicular tracery and glazing between 1406 and 1437; after 1660 much glass still remained, including 117 coats of arms, and this was the case up to 1725; but in 1775 the great east window was blown in and the glass destroyed, and by 1787 and during Wyatt’s operations quantities were pur loined or thrown away, and the destruction of glass did not entirely cease till about 1842.

The exterior of the cathedral, though most striking when viewed from the bridges, may be seen to advantage both from the Castle grounds on the north and from St. Oswald’s churchyard to the south-east; but the paring to which the walls were subjected at the end of the last century has greatly reduced the fine effects of light and shade which the mouldings and other projecting surface ornament originally produced: the eastern transept has a rather flat appearance, which is hardly relieved by the lofty pinnacled turrets added by Wyatt; one of these on the north side contains in a niche the famous sculpture of the “Dun Cow,” about which there is a traditional story; both transepts are flanked by turrets, those on the west octagonal and on the east square; they are pierced by several tiers of windows, and have small pinnacles: the great central tower, above the roof, is Perpendicular, and of two unequal stories, each lighted on every side by coupled windows with crocketed ogee heads: the lower and loftier stage is strengthened by double pinnacled buttresses, and separated from that above by a battlemented fillet; both the windows and buttresses are enriched with figures, 40 in all, replaced in 1859, and the whole is crowned by an open embattled parapet: the western towers are of two main stages, the upper portion being subdivided by four tiers of Early English arcading, and surmounted by an open embattled parapet and large crocketed pinnacles, both added in 1778; up to 1667 they had lofty spires of wood, covered with lead: good distant views may also be obtained from the left bank of the Wear, the “Prior’s Path,” St. Giles’s churchyard and from Old Elvet.

Of the monastic buildings there are yet considerable remains. The cloisters, on the south side of the nave, vary in length on every side, the average dimension being 147 feet 4 ½ inches; they are entered from the church by the prior’s doorway, a very rich example of the Transition period, and were erected between 1368 and 1418, but are now of plain character and limited interest, owing partly to the removal, in the last century, of the old tracery and the destruction of the stained glass in the windows of the east walk, illustrating the history of St. Cuthbert: the north walk, where the windows were also glazed, had little wooden chambers or “carrells” next the windows, as studies for the monks: in the centre of the garth are the remains of the lavatory, originally an octagonal structure of marble, with seven windows, and within it a laver fed through spouts of brass; on the lead-covered top was a dovecote. The principal building remaining on the east side of the cloisters is the chapter house, separated from the south transept by a “slype” or open passage, lined with Norman arcading, and once used as a sacristy: the entrance to the chapter house is through a rich late Norman doorway of three orders, on each side of which are unglazed windows of two arched openings inclosed within a recessed arch ornamented with zigzag mouldings: the existing room, however, represents less than half the original chamber, and in a much despoiled and altered condition: as first built by Bishop Geoffrey Rufus it was the finest Norman chapter house in England, being 77 feet long internally and 35 wide, with a circular east end: the roof was vaulted, and there were seven windows, two of Norman date on the north and south and five in the apse, which had been filled with Decorated tracery; below these and surrounding the whole interior, except the west end, ran an arcade of interesting arches, and raised on two steps from the floor was a continuous stone bench, and in the apse a platform with a stone chair, in which, up to 1791, all the bishops had been installed: the pavement was covered with the brasses and inscribed slabs of prelates, at least 16 of whom were here interred: in 1796 the eastern portion was removed altogether, a new east wall built, a plaster ceiling substituted, the walls similarly treated and the floor raised and boarded, but in 1830 the plastering of the walls was removed and the concealed arcading restored; the present floor is three feet higher than the actual pavement, in which the memorials referred to still probably remain, and adjoining on the south side is a chamber, at present inaccessible, but known to he filled with broken fragments of stone; in 1874, the graves of Bishops Flambard, Rufus and de St. Barbara were discovered just outside the east wall of the existing chapter house, and three episcopal rings of gold, set with sapphires, and found in them, are now in the library, as well as three of the four caryatidal figures which supported the vaulting ribs of the apse. South of the chapter house are several small rooms, and next a passage leading to the prior’s house, on the other side of which is an apartment divided by a plain arcade of four arches: the prior’s house, now the deanery, stands east of this and retains its chapel, built over a vaulted crypt, internally 46 feet 8 inches by 16 feet. On the south side of the cloisters is the frater (refectory), now called the old library, of which the windows and parapet were restored by Salvin in 1858; below it is a vaulted undercroft, 49 by 30 ½ feet, with two rows of low square piers of Early Norman date: near to it, on the south-west, is the monastic kitchen, an octagonal structure, with a groined roof, erected between 1368 and 1370. The west side of the cloister is occupied by the dorter (dormitory), 1398-1404, built over a vaulted crypt of the early 13th century, which also retains traces of Norman work: the dorter itself is 194 feet long by 41 wide, and has a massive oak roof of plain Perpendicular date; it was thoroughly restored in 1849-53, and now forms the new library, to which purpose it was first assigned by Dean Sudbury (1661-84), who furnished it with the handsome oak presses now in use. The collection of MSS. handed down from the monastery to the chapter begin from the 7th century and are of the greatest interest and importance. Here also are preserved various Roman antiquities, baluster shafts from Monkwearmouth and Jarrow, a fine collection of impressions of seals, five ancient copes, the relics taken from the grave of St. Cuthbert in 1827 and other objects, besides several portraits: at the south-west angle of the precincts, and separated by a passage from the prebendal houses, are some remains of the vaulted Early English crypt of the guest hall. The great gatehouse, some distance south-east of the cathedral, is a Perpendicular structure, built by Prior Castell; over the groined entrance is the restored chapel of St. Helen and a priest’s chamber.

The cathedral body consists of the bishop, dean, two archdeacons, who are canons, four other canons, twenty honorary canons, five minor canons, organist, chapter clerk, treasurer, receiver, ten lay clerks and two vergers. The late bishop, the Right Rev. Joseph Barber Lightfoot D.D., D.C.L., LL.D. formerly canon of St. Paul’s cathedral, London (1871-9) and Margaret Prof. of Divinity at Cambridge, was appointed in 1879, and died Dec. 22nd, 1889.

The city is within the diocese and archdeaconry of Durham.

The churches comprehended within the city are six in number-viz.: St. Giles, St. Nicholas, St. Mary-le-Bow, St. Mary-the-Less, St. Oswald’s and St. Margaret’s, all in the rural deanery of Durham.

St. Giles’s, situated on an elevated point east of the city, commanding a most extensive view of the city and suburbs, is an ancient Norman church, and is one of the most interesting buildings in the city: a brass plate on the wall bears a long inscription relative to its foundation by Ralph Flambard, Bishop of Durham, and its dedication by him on the 11th of June, 1112: it consists of chancel, nave of five bays, south aisle, north porch, organ chamber and a low embattled western tower containing 3 bells: the smallest is inscribed in Lombardic characters, “Campana Sancti Egidii the second, “Sancta Maria ora pro nobis,” in black letters; the tenor bell bears the date 1646: in the chancel is a monument with recumbent wooden effigy in armour, to John Heath, of Kepier, ob. 1590: in 1874-6 it was restored and enlarged at a cost of upwards of £7,000, when the chancel was fitted with stalls, a south aisle and vestry added in the Early Decorated style and the nave reseated, and in 1882 a new organ was built at a cost of £300: there are 500 sittings. The register dates from the year 1584. The living is a vicarage, tithe rent-charge £35, net yearly value £210, inlcuding glebe, with residence, in the gift of the Marquess of Londonderry K.G., P.C. and held since 1884 by the Rev. Robert John Pearce D.C.L. late fellow of Caius College, Cambridge.

The yearly parochial charities include £6 for sermons, £152 for church purposes, derived from the Gilligate church estate of 17A. 1R. 18p. and from money in the funds, and £21 for distribution in money, chiefly from Finney’s charity.

St. Nicholas’, situated at the end of Claypath, facing the Market place, was rebuilt in 1858, on the site of a previous edifice: the late Marchioness of Londonderry and the Rev. George T. Fox M.A. contributing £1,000 each towards its erection, and the residue being raised by public subscription: it is a building of stone in the Late Decorated style, consisting of chancel with aisles, nave and aisles, both with clerestory, and a tower on the south side, with pinnacles and a spire 160 feet high, and containing a clock and 6 bells: the chancel is fitted with stalls, and is separated from its aisles by screens, erected in memory of Ralph Dixon esq. in 1858: the organ was presented in 1869, as a testimonial to the Rev. George Townshend Fox M.A. vicar 1856-82: there are 650 sittings: Mr. J. P. Pritchett, of Darlington, was the architect. The register dates from the year 1576, and there are churchwardens’ accounts from 1665 to 1703. The living is a vicarage, gross yearly value £205, including 117 acres of glebe, in the gift of the Marquess of Londonderry K.G., P.C. and held since 1882 by the Rev. Henry Elliott Fox M.A. of Trinity College, Cambridge.

The parochial charities include annually £5 for sermons, about £45 for church purposes, derived from houses and land, and £7 for distribution in bread and money.

St. Mary-le-Bow, situated in the North Bailey, and erected in 1685, is an edifice of stone, consisting of chancel and nave and a low embattled western tower, added in 1702, the base of which forms a porch: the east window is stained, and also a small one on the south side; the latter is a memorial to Dr. J. R. Fenwick, of this city: the church has recently been restored and reseated with oak benches, and a new organ and font added: an open screen, erected in 1707, divides the nave and chancel: according to tradition this church stands on the spot where St. Cuthbert’s remains were lodged in a tabernacle of boughs, when they were first brought by the monks to Durham: there are 284 sittings. The register dates from the year 1571. The living is a rectory, yearly value £300, including 70 acres of glebe, in the gift of the Archdeacon of Northumberland, and held since 1867 by the Rev. William Hampson Walter M.A. of University College, Durham, hon. canon of Durham and surrogate. There is an endowment of £5 yearly for the rector.

St. Mary-the-Less, South Bailey, erected on the site of an earlier structure of the 13th century, is a building of stone in the Norman style, consisting of chancel and nave, south porch and a low western gabled turret, containing 2 bells: there are memorial windows to Dr. James Raine, the eminent topographer, d. 6 Dec. 1858, and Col. Shipperdson; a mural tablet to the well known dwarf, Count Borowlaski, d. Sept. 1837, and some good Elizabethan oak carving in the chancel: the church affords 100 sittings. The register dates from the year 1568. The living is a rectory, net yearly value £134, including glebe, with residence, in the gift of the Lord Chancellor, and held since 1865 by the Rev. William Greenwell M.A., D.C.L. and late fellow of Durham University, minor canon of Durham and surrogate.

St. Margaret’s church, Crossgate, is an ancient edifice of stone, chiefly of Norman date, consisting of chancel with south aisle, clerestoried nave of five bays, aisles, north porch and a low embattled western tower, with pinnacles, containing 3 bells: the chancel is divided from the nave by a low traceried oak screen, and there is a carved reredos of the same material: the church was thoroughly restored in 1880, at a cost of £2,500, when the gallery was removed, the north wall pulled down and rebuilt further out, and the building reseated throughout with open oak benches: there are five stained windows: the east window is a memorial to the Rev. Percival S. Wilkinson, of Mount Oswald, d. July 20th, 1885, and Sophia Mary his wife, erected by their children; in the chancel aisle are two, one to the Rev. Canon Cundill D.D. rector of this parish 1842-89, erected by his parishioners, and another to John Fawcett esq. of North Bailey, d. Oct. 21, 1882, and to W. L. Wharton esq. of Dryburn: there are 500 sittings. The register dates from the year 1575, and is in perfect condition. The living is a rectory, net yearly value £300, including 20 acres of glebe, with residence, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Durham, and held since 1889 by the Rev. Henry Roberson M.A. of Clare College, Cambridge.

The church estate, consisting of 19 ½ houses and about 28 acres of land, together with money in the funds, produces £17 a year for church purposes, and there are charities of £10 yearly for distribution in bread and money.

St. Oswald’s church, situated to the south-east of the cathedral, is an ancient building in the Perpendicular style, consisting of chancel, clerestoried nave of five bays, aisles, north porch and a lofty embattled western tower, with pinnacles, containing 6 bells, re-cast in 1694: the fabric, owing to injuries received from the subsidence of the ground below, was altered in 1834, the fine carved oak roof, which had been destroyed, replaced, and the interior repewed: in 1864 the east end of the chancel was rebuilt, the window filled with stained glass and a new reredos erected by the late Right Hon. J. R. Davison M.P. in memory of his father and mother, and new benches erected; the reredos is of gold and coloured mosaic, with figures of angels holding scrolls; there are other memorial windows to the wife of the late John Fogg Elliott esq. of Elvet hill; to the late John Tiplady esq. formerly town clerk, d. 28 March, 1865; the Rev. Edward Sneyd, late vicar, d. 3 Aug. 1866; Edward Peele esq. J.P. d. 14 April, 1883; A. W. Carver esq.; George Wilkinson esq. of Oswald House, d. 18 June, 1866, and two to the Rev. Dr. Dykes, a former vicar: the tower was restored in 1863, and in 1883 the nave and aisles were reseated with oak benches, the vestry enlarged, a new carved oak pulpit erected and the western gallery removed, under the direction of Mr. C. Hodgson Fowler A.K.I.B.A., F.S.A.: the chancel is divided from the nave by an oak screen, presented by the late Archdeacon Thorp: in the north aisle is a monument with Latin inscription to Christopher Chaiter de Butrobie esq. oh. April 17, 1592; and others in the south aisle to Jarrardus Salvin, of Croxdale, ob. 1663, and George Smith, of Burn Hall, ob. Nov. 7, 1756: there are 600 sittings. The register dates from the year 1500, and there are churchwardens’ accounts of much value from 1580 to 1700. The living is a vicarage, average tithe rent-charge £160, net yearly value £255, with house, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Durham, and held since 1876 by the Rev. Arthur William Headlam M.A. of Trinity College, Cambridge, and surrogate.

The annual parochial charities include 13s. 4d. for church purposes, derived from cottages and land; Ashton’s charity of £100 for distribution in money, and Cock’s charity of £31 for the general uses of the poor.

The Catholic diocese of Hexham and Newcastle comprises the county of Durham.

The Catholic church, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and situated at the head of Old Elvet, was built from the designs of Ignatius Bonomi esq. and opened on the 31st of May, 1827: it is an edifice in the Perpendicular style, consisting of sanctuary, nave, Lady chapel, porch and a low tower rising one stage above the roof, but without a bell: the interior was added to and re-arranged in 1870: the high altar is panelled in three divisions, richly painted and gilt; behind it is an elaborately-carved canopied reredos, reaching almost to the roof, and surmounted by a noble rood, the figures on which of Our Lord, the Blessed Virgin, and St. John, are from Munich: on each side of the sanctuary are statues of the Blessed Virgin and St. Joseph, in diapered niches, and displayed upon shields are emblems of the Passion: the new Lady chapel is built out between the buttresses of the north wall of the church, and on one side of its altar is a stained window representing Our Blessed Lady, crowned and seated, with the Divine Infant standing on her knee: the font, of Caen stone, consists of a circular basin, standing on a central pillar, with four other shafts at the angles of the base: the presbytery adjoins the church on the west, and stands within a pleasant garden.

The Catholic church of St. Godric, opened by Dr. Hogarth, November 15th, 1864, stands on a commanding site, and is an edifice of stone and brick in the later Early English style, consisting of apsidal chancel, with side chapels and vestries, aisle, and a portion of the clerestoried nave, as designed by Mr. E.W. Pugin, architect, the remainder of the plan not being at present carried out: the nave is divided from the aisle by polished granite pillars, with richly carved capitals of Caen stone: at the end of the aisle is the Lady chapel, with a richly decorated altar and statue: the chapel on the south side contains a statue of the Sacred Heart: the windows of the sanctuary are stained, and in the centre window of the apse the Blessed Virgin is represented as teaching St. Godric a hymn; the top quatrefoil is filled with a view of the ruins of Finchale Priory: the south-east window contains figures of St. Cuthbert and St. Bede, and the north-east is a memorial to the first provosts of the restored diocese of Hexham and Newcastle, the late Very Rev. Dr. Fletcher and the Very Rev. Provost Platt D.D. and has figures of St. William and St. Ralph: an organ gallery was erected at the west end in 1887.

The Congregational chapel, situated in Claypath, was erected in 1886, at a cost of £5,000, inclusive of site, and is a building of stone in the Gothic style, with a tower and octagonal spire: the organ was presented by George Newnes esq. M.P. as a memorial to his sister Mrs. Hillyard: there are 580 sittings.

The Methodist New Connexion chapel (Bethel), situated in North road, is a large building of stone, erected in 1852-3, and has an organ, built at a cost of £700: there are 700 sittings.

The Presbyterian chapel, Waddington street, built in 1877-8, at a cost of £3,500, is an edifice of stone in the Gothic style, with an octagonal spired turret, and will seat 250 persons.

The Primitive Methodist chapel, situated in the North road, was erected in 1860, at a cost of £2,005, and was renovated in 1888 at a cost of £600: there are 476 sittings. The Sunday school attached was built in 1874, at a cost of £550.

The Wesleyan chapel, situated in Old Elvet, was built in 1808, and has 700 sittings. There is also a small one in Gilesgate, opened January 4th, 1869, and seating 250 persons.

St. Nicholas’ Cemetery, situated in Providence row, and comprising an area of four acres, was formed about 1862, at a cost of £1,000, and has one mortuary chapel; it is under the control of a burial board of 5 members.

St. Oswald’s cemetery, situated at Church croft, and covering an area of two acres, was formed in 1887, and is under the control of a burial board of 9 members.

The Catholic cemetery, situated on the Red hills, comprises an area of about four acres and was formed in 1866: there is a lodge keeper’s residence: the Rev. William Brown B.A. is chaplain.

The Town Hall, situated on the western side of the Market place, and ad joining the Guiidhall, originally built by Bishop Tunstall in 1555, was rebuild in 1851, from designs by Mr. Philip C. Hardwick, architect, and is built on arches, the spaces beneath and around the hall forming a convenient and well-arranged market for meat and merchandise. The hall itself, opened 29th January, 1851, is 72 feet long by 36 wide, and 56 feet in height, and is panelled all round; the panelling at the west end being adorned with the emblazoned shields of the principal county families, and on the north side with the names of the mayors of Durham since 1836; the south side is lighted by a fine oriel, and at the west end is a large window filled with scenes in stained glass from the early history of the city, and the arms of several bishops, local families, and of the architect; on the walls are hung the portraits of five mayors from 1836 to 1887, of Lord Crewe, Bishop of Durham (1674-1722), the Right Hon. Sir Robert Peel bart. M.P. Robert Burns, the poet; Dr. Hartwell, a benefactor; and King William III.; various other shields of arms are either painted or suspended upon the walls, over the handsome fire-place being placed the arms of the city, and those of the see impaling Maltby: the initials of the members of the Corporation at the time of the erection of the hall appear on the corbels supporting the roof: the mayor’s parlour, a panelled chamber, has a fine carved oak chimney-piece, presented by the late Walter Scruton esq. and originally in Hatfield hall; in the upper panels are inclosed portraits of Charles I. and Queen Henrietta Maria: a corridor leads from the Town hall to the old Guildhall, converted in October, 1876, into a police court.

The Corporation insignia comprise a mayor’s chain, with badge, four silver badges worn by the mayor’s sergeants, and two borough seals; there was formerly a silver mace, but this was stolen December 3, 1864, and has at present neither been recovered nor replaced: the Corporation also possess several handsome pieces of plate: the mayor’s gold chain and badge, manufactured in 1870 by Messrs. Hunt and Roskell, consists of a series of links entwined with a scroll leaf ornament; the pendent badge exhibits the arms of the city-az. a cross or, within an elaborately foliaged border; the silver badges bear the same arms, the letters “R. A (for Ralph Alison, mayor), and the date 1636: the common seal of silver, 2 ½ inches in diameter, was presented by Matthew Pattisonne in 1606, and has in the centre a figure of St. Cuthbert standing under a canopy, over which are a crescent and a star; on either side is a shield of England surmounted by a mitre, and at the base the arms of the city; round the margin is a legend: the smaller silver seal has the city arms only: the plate includes a silver ewer, hall marked, 1672-3, and presented to the city by Nathaniel, Lord Crewe, Bishop of Durham (1674-1722); a silver tankard of 1674-5; a silver covered cup of 1677-8, also given by Lord Crewe; a large silver monteith or punch bowl, of 1694-5: a silver ladle with Newcastle hall marks; a drinking cup, 1717-18, and six ornamented silver candlesticks, four of which were given by Lord Crewe. The mayor and aldermen wear black gowns with silver facings.

The County Court offices, situated in Old Elvet, and erected in 1871, form a good building of stone, in the Early Tudor style, from designs by Mr. T. C. Sorby, architect, of London: the court room is on the ground floor, and on the first floor is the bankruptcy office, registrar’s room and apartments for the court keeper.

The Post Office, situated on the site of the Old Golden Lion hotel, Sadler street, was erected in 1880, and is a building of stone of two stories in a plain Italian style, the structure generally covering an area of 80 by 36 feet.

The County Penitentiary, instituted in 1853, and situated on rising ground beyond Gilesgate, is a large plain gabled building, on a cruciform plan, and has an average resident number of 23 inmates. The management is entrusted to a matron and assistants, and there is a body of governors, and a ladies’ inspection committee.

Her Majesty’s Prison, situated at the head of Old Elvet, is a fine building, erected at a cost of £140,000, and comprises 34 wards, 18 day rooms and two work-rooms, with cells for 613 males and 139 females. The chapel attached has 698 sittings.

The Assize Courts, formerly part of the same building, were rebuilt in 1869 at a cost of £5,000, and consist of a central block with wings in the Italian style, from designs by Mr. W. Crozier, county architect, and include also apartments for the judges, and a residence for the governor.

The Masonic Hall, in Old Elvet, opened on the 7th of December, 1862, is a building of dressed ashlar, in the Early Geometrical style: the principal entrance is formed by four polished red granite columns, supporting a bold pointed arch, over which is a bay window, the spandrils of which are filled with masonic devices, and on each side of the window is a lion, bearing a shield with the arms of the Earl of Zetland and of John Fawcett esq. P.G.M.: the interior contains a grand staircase, banqueting hall, lodge room and robing and preparation rooms: the lodge room, which is the same size as the banqueting hall, has an open-timbered roof, carried on stone corbels carved with the badges of the various offices in Freemasonry: the chimney-piece of polished stone is adorned with the armorial bearings of the P.G.M. Two lodges meet here-viz. the Granby and Norman.

The city charities include annually Bishop Langley’s charity of £37, and Hartwell’s of £34, for educational purposes; Lord Crewe’s charity of £156, for apprenticing, derived from funded investments; £265 10s. from Bishop Cosin’s, Hartwell’s, Kirby’s and Bishop Chandler’s charities (in part unproductive), for the support of almshouses and pensioners; Frankeleyn’s charity of £2 12s. for bread; and about £466 for distribution in money, chiefly derived from Smith’s benefaction, consisting of houses and land and money invested in Consols; and including other sums for the relief of poor debtors; Cradock’s charity of £400, in personal securities, was lent in 1871, without interest, for carrying on a carpet manufactory. There are also parochial charities, which are stated under the respective parishes to which they belong.

Durham County Hospital, pleasantly situated on an elevated point on the New North road, is a spacious building of stone, supported by donations and public subscriptions, erected in 1853, in the Elizabethan style, at a cost of £7,500, raised by voluntary subscriptions, and will hold 44 patients: in 1867 male and female convalescent wards were added by subscription at a cost of £2,400, as a memorial of the late Dean Waddington, who in 1865 contributed £2,000 to the funds of the hospital, and subsequently a further sum of £2,000; and finally, bequeathed by his will £6,000 more: additional wards were added through the munificence of the late John Eden esq. of Beamish Park, who gave a sum of £2,000 towards their erection, and bequeathed a further sum of £10,000: these were opened December 2nd, 1886, by the Earl of Durham: there is now room for 70 patients: the total number of patients treated in 1888 was 1,566.

Bishop Cosin’s almshouses were originally founded on the Palace green, in 1668: new premises were built in Queen Street in 1838 for the reception of four poor men and four poor women, who live rent free, and receive about 6s. 10d. each weekly.

The Home for Friendless Girls and Free Registry, III Framwellgate, was established in 1882, and provides for 20 girls; there are at present in the home 14.

The Durham Miners’ Association Hall, situated in the North road, was erected in 1875 at a cost of £8,000, and is a building of stone with a clock tower containing an illuminated clock: the interior comprises various offices and a large hall seating over 500 persons: over the entrance is a fine marble statue to the late Alexander McDonald, formerly president of the Union, erected by subscription in 1883: the Association numbers upwards of 30,000 members.

There is a carpet manufactory, employing about 300 hands, iron foundries, two mustard manufactories, a hosiery manufactory and two small breweries in the town.

The Market place, a small but still picturesque square, has on the north side, in front of the church of St. Nicholas, an equestrian statue in bronze, by Raffaelle Monti, to Charles William, 3rd Marquess of Londonderry, inaugurated Dec. 2nd, 1861: here also is a handsome canopied drinking fountain surmounted by an octagonal arcaded pedestal bearing a figure of Neptune, and erected in 1863; at the angles of the base are ornamental lamps. The market is held on Saturday, and is well attended by the inhabitants of the surrounding villages.Stolen from Fore-bears

A cattle fair is held every alternate Monday, for horses, sheep and horned cattle, on the following days, viz. :-Last Friday in March, Friday before the 13 th May, unless that day falls on a Friday, Whit Tuesday, Friday next before 16th September, and Friday next before 23rd November, unless that day falls on a Friday. The March fair continues three days, and is much frequented by horse dealers.

Here are two banks, the National Provincial Bank of England Limited, which has well designed offices of stone in the Italian style, situated in the Market place, and opened in Feb. 1878, and that of Messrs. Backhouse and Co. also a handsome stone building, situated in the Market place.

Two weekly papers are issued here: the “Durham Chronicle” (Liberal), established 1820, and the “Durham County Advertiser ’’ (Conservative), established in 1814.

In North road is a mural drinking fountain of stone and granite, in the Early French Gothic style, erected in 1863, on a site given by the North Eastern Railway Company, the water flowing from a grotesque head, within a pointed arch carried on granite shafts; the water supply is obtained from the Flass Well spring at the foot of the Red hills.

Public baths and washhouses, situated on the banks of the river Wear, were erected about 1856 by the Corporation, at the cost of £5,000, and are of hewn stone, in the Italian style, comprising two extensive swimming baths, also warm and private baths and well fitted-up washhouses, with drying-room adjoining for the use of the public: in the yard is the Fire Engine station, containing a manual fire engine, hose reel &c.

The Public Soup Kitchen and Mendicity Office occupies the site of the old theatre.

Among the eminent natives of Durham, may be mentioned Sir George Baker kt. d. 1667; William (Eden), 1st baron Auckland P.C., M.P. ambassador to France, Spain and the Netherlands, born 1744, d. 28 May, 1814; John Heathersal, co-founder of the Grammar school at Houghton-le-Spring, born at Kepyer; Richard Grey D.D. divine and scholar, and author of “Memoria Technica,” born 1693-4, d. 28 Feb. 1771; John Hall, poet and translator, born Aug. 1627, and author of “Horae Vacivae,” d. 1 Aug. 1656; Robert Hegge, divine and author, born 1599, d. 1629; Robert Lambe, divine and philologist and author of a history of chess, born c. 1711, d. 1795.; Granville Sharp, philanthropist, born 10 Nov. 1735, d. 6 July, 1813; William Sherwood, archbishop of Rouen, d. 1249; George Smith, Saxon scholar and editor of Bede’s works, born 1603; and Robert Surtees M.A., F.S.A. antiquary and topographer, born 1 April, 1779, author of the “History and Antiquities of the County of Durham,” d. 11 Feb.1834.

On the right bank of the Wear, about a mile below the cathedral, are the remains of Kepyer Hospital, founded in 1112 by Bishop Flambard; the original buildings were burned by the followers of the Scot, Roger Comyn, who usurped the see from 1140 to 1143, but they were restored in 1160 by Bishop Pudsey, and subsequently rebuilt, 110 part of the existing fabric being earlier than 1300: the hospital, at its surrender in 1545, had revenues valued at £167, and it was then dismantled, but in 1660 a small house was built adjoining, with a wide open staircase at the back: the gabled entrance is vaulted and has good moulded arches on clustered shafts, surmounted in front by a band of quatrefoils and flanked by buttresses: it is now the property of Sir Richard G. Musgrave bart. of Edenhall.

Near the goods station, to the north of the church of St. Giles, and now surrounded by a garden, stand the ruins of the chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, erected in 1439, and attached to a small hospital: the remains consist chiefly of the east and west walls and part of the south wall with a doorway; the cuspings and dripstone of the east window are fairly preserved.

At Neville’s Cross, one mile west of the city, are the remains of the cross erected here to commemorate the decisive battle fought here 17 Oct. 1346, between the invading Scots, led by their king David II. and the northern English militia under Queen Philippa, numbering 16,000 men and led by lords Neville, Percy and Mowbray, the archbishop of York and the bishops of Durham and Lincoln, with a reserve commanded by Edward, son of John Balliol, King of Scotland; after an obstinately contested engagement, the victory was at length assured to the English by the skilful and energetic action of their reserves; the king, David, with several of his nobles were captured, and many others, with, it is said, 15,000 men, were slain outright; the victors afterwards proceeded to the cathedral, and there offered up a solemn thanksgiving; of the cross only a part of the shaft and the steps now remain, the upper portion, which included figures of the Evangelists at the base of the shaft and a rood on the summit, having been destroyed in 1589, but the structure as now existing was repaired in 1883 and inclosed with a wall and railing. In the present year (1889), a large number of silver coins were discovered here; they numbered about 300, and when found were contained in an urn, unfortunately broken in the removal: about 40 were sold by the finder at Durham and melted down; others were purchased by Mr. Fowler, of Durham: the urn is about 9in. high and of mediaeval workmanship: the coins are groats, half-groats and pennies of the Scottish kings Robert Bruce and David II. and the first three Edwards of England: the whole remaining collection, now in the possession of Mr. Fowler, includes a large number of pennies from the Royal and episcopal mints of Durham and York: the inscriptions show that the groats and half-groats of Edward III. were struck in London and at York.

Finchale Priory, near the city, is in Framwellgate township, which see.

Burn Hall, in the parish of St. Oswald, the residence of Bryan John Francis Salvin esq. and erected in 1825, is a building in the Classic style, commanding very extensive views: attached to the hall is a Catholic chapel for the use of the family.

A race-course was established here in the reign of Charles II. and races were held on Easter Monday and Tuesday, but are now abolished. The ground has been inclosed and laid out as a recreation ground and a pavilion erected by the University.

Wharton’s Park, adjoining the Railway station, is open free to the public daily; it is situated on rising ground, whence varied and beautiful views of the city and county are obtained.

The population of the parliamentary and municipal borough in 1861, 1871 and 1881 was :—

DURHAM UNIVERSITY.

The University of Durham, originally projected by the Lord Protector Cromwell, was actually founded by the munificence of William Van Mildert D.D. Bishop of Durham, the fact of the large and increasing population of the northern counties, and their distance from the universities of Cambridge and Oxford, suggesting to him and to the Dean and Chapter that a local University might be provided from the revenues of that body: accordingly, a scheme was arranged between the Bishop and the Dean and Chapter for the foundation of a University in connection with the cathedral church, the Chapter assigning property of the value of £3,000 yearly for the purpose, and the Bishop undertaking to provide for the Warden and the Professors of Divinity and Greek, by attaching prebendal stalls to their respective offices. In pursuance of this arrangement, an Act was passed 4 July, 1832, enabling the Dean and Chapter to appropriate property at South Shields for the purpose of establishing the University and under the authority of this Act the University was opened in October, 1833.

Constitution.-In July, 1835, a statute was passed by the Dean and Chapter, placing the management in the hands of a Warden, a Senate and a Convocation, with the Bishop as visitor, and the Dean and Chapter as governors. The Senate also, in accordance with the provisions of this statute, prepared regulations for conducting the studies and general business of the University and these were approved by Convocation 4 March 1836. A royal charter was granted 1 June, 1837, incorporating the persons named therein under the style of “the Warden, Masters and scholars of the University of Durham,” and authorizing the body corporate to have a perpetual succession and a common seal, and to enjoy all the rights and privileges assured to the university by Act of Parliament, or incident to it as established by royal charter; and the first degrees received under this Act were conferred 8 June, 1837. By an Order in Council 4 June, 1841, the constitution of the governing body was further defined, the Wardenship being permanently annexed to the deanery of Durham, canonries assigned to the professorships of Divinity and Greek, and provision made for a professorship of Hebrew, actually founded in 1881; besides these, there are professorships of medicine, surgery and physiology, the two latter being founded in 1888, various lecturers and tutors, an astronomical observer, registrar and treasurer; there are also two proctors, appointed annually by Convocation in October, and with these officers rests the discipline of all members of the University in statu pupillari (i.e. those who have not taken the degree of M.A., B.C.L., or M.B. ); they also, under the Warden, conduct the proceedings in Convocation, and to the senior proctor belongs the duty of examining the claims of those who petition for degrees; the curators of the library, museums and observatory consist of certain ex officio members, together with others nominated annually (or for the Museums, every two years) by the Warden and approved by Convocation. By the Medical Act of 1858 (21 and 22 Viet. c. 90) the University of Durham, like each of the other English Universities, is empowered to elect a member of the General Council of Medical Education and Registration, and its licentiates and graduates are in like manner entitled to be registered as qualified medical practitioners.

Regulations.-No one can be held to be a member of the University who has not been matriculated, i.e. whose name has not been placed on the register of the University by the authority of the Warden. The academical year consists of 26 weeks, divided into three terms, called respectively Michaelmas, Epiphany and Easter terms, the beginning and duration of which are determined annually by the Warden and Senate, but 110 person can be held to have kept any term unless he produces a certificate of having done so from the registrar, this certificate being dependent on a list furnished to the registrar by the Warden on the reports of the proctors and heads of houses.

Degrees are conferred by the University in the faculties of arts, law, divinity, medicine, science and music; members of the university, previous to obtaining a degree, are styled “undergraduates.” For the degree of Bachelor of Arts, the petitioner must be a student in Arts and have resided at least six terms, and must also have passed two public examinations, but any student in Theology who has passed his examination as a student in Arts and kept at least three terms as such, may be permitted to count the terms kept by him as a student in Theology as those of a student in Arts; students who have passed the final examination for the Licence in Theology, having previously resided at least six terms, and further resided one ordinary term, or two shorter terms of five weeks each, as students in Arts, may also be admitted to the second public examination. For the degree of Bachelor of Science, students must have obtained the academical rank of Associate in Physical Science by passing an examination in at least six out of eight specified subjects, and have completed a full year from the time of their being made Associates. For the degree of Master of Arts, candidates must be Bachelors of Arts of at least nine terms’ standing from the date of their admission to that degree, and must pass such examinations or perform such exercises as the Senate may require, but these are not necessary if the candidate has previously obtained honours in Arts, or has passed the examinations for B.C.L., L.T. or L.M. For the degree of Master in Science the candidate must be a B.SC. of at least two years’ standing, and must satisfy the examiners in some branch of one of the scientific studies professed in the College of Physical Science. For the degree of Doctor of Science, the candidate must be an M.SC. of the age of 30 years, and of at least 21 terms’ standing from his admission as M.SC. and must perform such exercises as the Warden and Senate may require. For the degree of Bachelor in Divinity, the candidate must be an M.A. of at least 30 terms’ standing from the date of his admission as BA, and of 3 terms at least from the date of his admission as M.A. he must also have passed his examination as a student in Theology, and have been admitted into Holy Orders, and must perform such exercises as may be required by the Senate, but persons of not less than 27 years of age, and in priests’ orders, are, under specified conditions, admitted to a special examination for this degree, and clergy, not being members of the University, but in priests’ orders, and of not less than 15 years’ standing from Deacons’ orders are also conditionally admitted to this examination. For the degree of Doctor in Divinity, the candidate must be a B.D. of at least 42 terms’ standing from the date of his admission as B.A. and must perform the exercises required by the Senate. For the degree of Bachelor in Civil Law the candidate must be of at least 12 terms’ standing from the date of his admission as B.A. and must pass an examination in Civil Law as appointed by the Senate. For the degree of Doctor in Civil Law the candidate must be a B.C.L. of at least 24 terms’ standing from the date of his admission as B.A. and must perform the exercises required by the Senate. In the Faculty of Medicine 110 one can be held to be a student in medicine unless he has passed the University examination for a certificate of proficiency in general education, or some other of the registration examinations recognized by the General Medical Council. For the status of Licentiate in Medicine or Surgery, the candidate must be of the age of 21 years, and must, since his registration, have spent 4 years in recognized medical and surgical schools, one of the 4 being spent at the University College of Medicine, Newcastle-on-Tyne, and he must also pass three public examinations. For the degree of Bachelor in Medicine the candidate must be of like standing, and have fulfilled similar conditions, and if not a B.A. must pass either the final examination for that degree, or an equivalent. For the degree of Bachelor in Surgery the candidate must have passed the examination for the M.B. degree, and have fulfilled such conditions as to lectures and passed such other examination as the Warden and Senate may require. For the degree of Master in Surgery, the candidate must be 24 years of age, and already a B.surg. and in other respects as in the preceding. For the degree of Doctor of Medicine the candidate must be already M.B. 24 years of age, and of at least 6 terms’ standing from the date of his admission as M.B. and must perform certain exercises fixed by the Warden and Senate; but persons of not less than 40 years of age, who have actively practised in medicine for 15 years, may, if sufficiently proficient in Arts, and of good repute, be admitted to a special examination for this degree. For the status of Licentiate in Sanitary Science, the candidate must be a registered medical practitioner, and have fulfilled other conditions. For the status of Licentiate in Theology the candidate must have kept the requisite number of terms as a student in Theology, according to the condition of his admission, and have passed a public theological examination, and he must also declare in writing that he is a bona fide member of the Church of England as by law established. Students of the University College of Physical Science at Newcastle-on-Tyne, are admitted to the rank of Associate in Physical Science, after completing a course of study extending over two years, and passing two public examinations, and the title of Mechanical, Mining or Civil Engineer of the University of Durhas may be obtained by associates who, after admission to that rank, have been for 3 years engaged in practical work approved by the Council and have also passed a further examination.

The Church Service of the University is that of the Cathedral of Durham. But 110 Student who is not a member of the Church of England is obliged to attend the services.

Persons not members of the University, on satisfying the Warden that they are of good moral character, may attend the lectures of any Professor or Lecturer, with his consent, on paying fees, to be fixed by the Senate, to such Professor or Lecturer. The Senate shall make such regulations as shall secure the good conduct and discipline of these non-matriculated Students.

Fellowships, Scholarships &c.-There are 6 University Fellowships, of the annual value of £120 and tenable for 8 years, but if the Fellow has taken Holy Orders within a specified time, the value is increased to £150 and the Fellowship is tenable for 10 years; the Pemberton Fellowship, founded in 1844, by Mrs. Pemberton of Sherburn Hall, is of the annual value of £100, but in 1876 was temporarily suspended. There are also on the same foundation two Senior Scholarships of £40 and two Junior of £15 yearly, the conditions of their award being determined by the College of Physical Science: there are 13 University Scholarships, varying in value from £30 to £70, and tenable from one to two years, and two Entrance Exhibitions of £20 each, tenable for two years: the University Classical and Mathematical Scholarships are each of £30 for one year, and there is a Scholarship of £30 for three years attached to Durham Grammar School. The Van Mildert Theological Scholarship is of £50 annual value, and the holder must read for honours in Theology: the Gisborne Scholarship was founded from funds given by the Rev. Thomas Gisborne M.A. Canon of Durham, and is of the value of £30 for one year: the Thorpe Scholarship, founded by the executors of the late Robert Thorpe, is of £15 for three years, and is confined to students of limited means: the Lindsay Scholarship of £50 for three years was founded by Mr. Ralph Lindsay, of St. Oswald’s, Durham, and is for founder’s kin, or boys born within the diocese, who have been for three years at Durham Grammar School: the Ellerton Scholarship, founded by the Rev. Edward Ellerton D.D. Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford, by deed dated 22nd Feb. 1848, for natives of the N. Riding of Yorks, is of £27 a year for three years, and confined in the first instance to boys educated at Richmond School: the Barry Divinity Scholarship, founded by the trustees of the late James Barry esq. of Durham, is of £30 yearly for one year, and open only to students in Theology; this Scholarship is partially restricted by an examination in Elocution: the Newby Memorial Scholarship of £25 yearly and tenable until the B.A. degree, was founded 31st Oct. 1848, by the pupils and friends of the late Rev. George Newby M.A.: the De Bury Scholarship, founded in 1882 by Bishop Lightfoot, is of £35 yearly for one year, for such students as intend to take Holy Orders in the diocese of Durham. There are also 9 Theological Scholarships, varying from £30 to £60 each yearly, and tenable for two years, and a number of Theological Exhibitions, tenable for one year only, and varying in value from £10 to £40; and also 4 Medical Scholarships of £25 each, tenable for four years by students in Medicine. Prizes for Foreign Languages, History and Reading, varying in value from £5 to £10 are awarded, and there is a Gabbett prize of £11, and a University Association prize.

Colleges and Halls

The original foundation of the University consisted only of one College, but under Tit. III. of the Regulations other Halls or Houses may be opened for the reception of students by licence from the Warden, approved by the Senate, and must in every case be under the immediate care of a master or other chief officer not under the degree of M.A. and, if necessary, assisted by a council. The Warden of the University is appointed to be the Visitor of such Hall or House, and there is now one in Durham and two in New-castle-on-Tyne, besides affiliated Colleges abroad.

University College, established in 1833. constituted the original foundation of the University, and several houses in the neighbourhood of the Castle were then prepared for, the reception of students; subsequently the College was transferred to the buildings of the Castle, which are held in trust by the Bishop for the benefit of the University, under an Order in Council dated 8 Aug. 1837, in pursuance of the Act 6 &, 7 Wm. IV. c. 19: the hall of the Castle is now the College hall, and the Castle chapel, built by Bishop Tunstall, is the College chapel, and a number of sets of rooms have been constructed in the Keep and Norman Gallery for the lodging of students.

Rev. Alfred Plummer M.A., D.D. master.

Walter Kercheval Hilton M.A. censor and bursar.

Rev. Henry Ellershaw M.A. chaplain.

Hatfield Hall was opened in Oct. 1846, and so named in memory of the distinguished and munificent bishop, who had also been a liberal contributor to the endowment of Durham (now Trinity) College at Oxford: in 1849 the Hall was considerably enlarged, and its rooms are let furnished, by which arrangement the expenses of students are greatly diminished; and in other respects in the management of the Hall especial regard is paid to economy: the members of the Hall are eligible for all the Fellowships and Scholarships of the University except the Pemberton Scholarships, and are generally on the same footing as members of University College.

Rev. Archibald Robertson M.A. principal.

Rev. Joseph Thos. Fowler M.A. vice-principal and chaplain.

Rev. Joseph Rushton Shortt M.A. censor and bursar.

Unattached Students.-Under a regulation passed in Mich. Term, 1870, persons are admissible as members of the University without being attached to any College, Hall or House, on condition that they reside in some house or lodging approved by the warden and proctors: unattached members of the University were first admitted in Epiphany Term, 1871.

Bishop Cosin’s Hall, opened in Oct. 1851, was closed in Mich. Term, 1864, and the students transferred to University College and Hatfield Hall.

The University College of Medicine, Newcastle-on-Tyne, was founded in 1851, and admitted into connection with the University Jan. 27, 1852, and in 1870 became a College of the University: students of this College residing at Durham are subject to the same discipline as other students of the University; but if pursuing their course at Newcastle, they are under the control of the President and Council of the College: new college buildings have been erected in Bath road, Newcastle, and completely furnished with the newest and best apparatus for medical instruction; they also include a library and museums of Anatomy, Pathology and Materia Medica: connected with the College are professorships of Medicine, Surgery and Physiology and there is a large staff of lecturers in the various departments; full students of the College are eligible for the University Medical Scholarships; and attached to the College is a Dickinson Scholarship of £15 and a gold medal, and the Charlton, Gibb, Tulloch and Goyder Memorial Scholarships, consisting of the interest on sums of money varying from £325 to £500: prizes of books and honours certificates are also awarded, and certain appointments in the College and Newcastle Infirmary are open to the students, of whom, in 1888, there were about 200: the College is represented on the senate, and is governed by a Council of 9 members, including the following:

George Yeoman Heath M.D., F.R.C.S., D.C.L. president.

William Christopher Arnison M.D., M.R.C.S. treasurer.

Frederick Page M.D., M.R.C.S. registrar.

The University College of Science, Newcastle-on-Tyne, was founded in 1871 for the teaching of Physical Science, particularly in its application to Engineering, Mining, Manufactures and Agriculture, and new buildings have been erected on a site of 6 acres, on the North road, three-quarters of a mile from the Central railway station; the buildings include a chemical laboratory, with a large room permitting 100 students to be working at a time, and a Physical laboratory; in 1888 a new department was added for instruction in various branches of Science, Ancient and Modern Languages, the Fine Arts, and certain branches of Technology: connected with the College are professorships of Pure and Applied Mathematics, Chemistry, Physics and Experimental Philosophy, Geology, Natural History and Mining, and there is a staff of lecturers and demonstrators: various Exhibitions and Scholarships are open to the students, of whom in 1889 there were 48 matriculated students, two being ladies; during 1888, in addition to the matriculated students, 310 students attended the Day Classes, and 675 the Evening Classes in connection with the College: the endowment is provided in part by the University, and in part by subscriptions raised in the North of England: the College is under the supreme control of a large body of Governors, many being ex officio and representative members, but the ordinary administration is vested in a Council of 24 members, 15 of whom are elected out of and by the Governors; each Governor retains office for 12 years; the College is represented on the Senate.

The Very Rev. William Charles Lake D.D. president and chairman of the Council.

Prof. William Garnett M.A., D.C.L. principal.

Alfred Howson, secretary.

Affiliated Colleges.-Under Tit. XL of the Regulations, two Colonial Colleges have been affiliated to the University. Students of these colleges may have their names placed on the register of the University as matriculated students of the same, provided that the Principal of their College, or other person authorised to act in his behalf, shall have certified to the Warden that they have passed an examination similar to that required for the admission of students in the several faculties in the University of Durham; and under further certified conditions they are admissible to the exercises and public examinations required for proceeding to degrees, licences and academical ranks in the several ranks, the examination papers being forwarded to the Principals of the Colleges, and the answers returned by them to the Senior Proctor; all degrees &c. granted in consequence of such examinations are conferred, on receipt of the Registrar’s certificate, by the bishops of the dioceses in which these Colleges are situate. These arrangements are terminable at any time, either by the University or by the authorities of either Affiliated College, on notice of six months at least being given beforehand. The institutions thus admitted are:— 1875. Easter Term. Codrington College, Barbados, founded by Gen. Christopher Codrington M.A. of All Souls’ College, Oxford, and having scholarships of the aggregate value of £600, chiefly for Theology, and in 1888, 20 students, 1876. Easter Term. Fourah Bay College, Sierra Leone, with, in 1888, 14 students.

In 1888 the members of the University numbered about 2,730, of whom 271 were members of Convocation: the undergraduate students (licentiates being excepted) in the same year were as follows: —

Total number of undergraduate students, 608.

University Institutions.

The University Library, founded at the opening of the University, received from the late Bishop Van Mildert, together with other costly works, a collection of the Benedictine fathers; and the late Venerable Martin J. Routh D.D. President of Magdalen. College, Oxford, some time before his death in 1854, gave his extensive library by deed to this University, and it was accordingly transferred in the following year. The late Bishop Maltby, on his resignation of the see of Durham in 1856, presented about 2,416 volumes of books, together with an endowment of £1,000 in the 3 per Cents. The late Thomas Masterman Winterbottom M.D. of Westoe, South Shields, bequeathed to the University his library of about 5,147 volumes, and these were added to the University library in 1859. The library has also has many other benefactors, and the total number of volumes is now (1889) about 30,200; it is controlled by a body of curators. Rev. Joseph Thomas Fowler M.A. University and Maltby librarian.

The Museum was founded by the Rev. Thomas Gisborne M.A. Canon of Durham, whose natural history collection has been added to by members of the University and others, and it now contains a nearly complete collection of specimens of British birds: the museum is under the direction of a board of curators.

The Observatory, which occupies an elevated site to the south-west of the city, 50° 46' 6" 2 north latitude and 1° 34' 56" 2 west longitude, is a plain building with a cruciform gabled superstructure and central dome, erected about 1840, and contains a collection of astronomical instruments, including a telescope by Fraunhofer, of about 8 feet focal length and 6'5 in. aperture, mounted equatorially, a clock by Hardy and an excellent refracting telescope, presented in 1846 by the late Duke of Northumberland P.C., LL.D.: due north of the observatory is an obelisk erected by the late W. L. Wharton esq. The observatory is under the direction of a body of curators, and is immediately controlled by a resident observer, Henry James Carpenter esq.

Durham Castle, until 1832 the principal residence of the palatine bishops of Durham, and now occupied by the Durham University, stands some distance north of the Cathedral, at the extremity of a rocky eminence, overlooking the city and the river. The site appears to have been fortified during the Saxon period, but the first building of the castle may be dated from 1072; it was continued by Bishops Flambard and de Puiset, and chiefly completed by Bishop Hatfield, but incorporates also the work of various other prelates: the buildings, arranged round a courtyard, are entered on the south side through a Norman gateway, the work of Bishop de Puiset, circ. 1174, the upper stage of which, forming an embattled tower with angle turrets, was rebuilt by Bishop Tunstall in the 16th century and by Bishop Barrington in 1791: the entrance is closed by massive oak doors bound with iron and of early date, and in the tower is a clock with dial: on the west side is the great hall, erected by Bishop Hatfield, originally 132 feet long, but 31 feet of the south end was cut off by Bishop Fox in 1495 to form the kitchen and buttery, and it is now 101 feet long and 36 wide, and is lighted on either side by Decorated traceried windows, one of which was filled with stained glass in 1882 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the foundation of the University: in 1887 a carved oak screen was erected and the oak panelling was completed in 1888: the walls are hung with numerous portraits of bishops and prebendaries, others of Charles I. and Charles II. and some pictures of saints brought from the Peninsula by Charles (Mordaunt), third Earl of Peterborough K.G. commander of the English. and Dutch contingent in 1705-6 during the war of the Spanish succession: at the south end are banners and armour: the east front of the hall, next the courtyard, is relieved by semi-octagonal turrets, with domical cappings and finials rising above the battlements; between two of these, at the top of a pentagonal flight of steps, is the portico built by Bishop Cosin, which has a tall central arch, with two stilted Ionic columns on each side, carrying a cornice surmounted by figures on pedestals; over the segmental pediment is a demi-angel holding a shield.

The kitchen and buttery at the south end of the hall were adapted to their present use by Bishop Fox in 1499, and are partly on the buildings of the Norman keep: in front of the buttery stands a massive iron-bound chest, in which it is said the remains of St. Cuthbert were preserved on their removal to the now destroyed re-vestry at the Reformation.

On the north side of the court is the ancient Norman chapel, dating from the latter part of the 11th century: it consists only of a nave of four bays with aisles, both vaulted and separated by arcades of plain arches carried on circular shafts, with plain round bases, and caps rudely carved with volutes, figures of animals and star work: the pavement, laid in a zigzag pattern, is contemporary; and the lighting is by small round-headed windows on the north side: the chapel is 32 ¼ feet by 20 feet 7 inches internally and 15 ¼ feet in height to the vaulting: on the same side are the upper and lower halls, built by Bishop de Puiset, about 1174, and used respectively as a dining room and a drawing room or solar: a staircase near the entrance to the ancient chapel leads to the upper hall, now called the “Norman gallery,” and adorned on the south side by a singular and very rich arcading, recessed in the thickness of the wall and inclosing the windows lighting the gallery on this side; the arches, which are larger at the window openings, are much ornamented with zigzag and lozenge moulding and are carried on cushioned brackets supported by detached shafts: the north side of this gallery is occupied by rooms for students, and at the end is a door opening on the landing of the “black staircase,” a quaint but interesting work, erected by Bishop Cosin, in 1665: the room at the foot of the stairs is ornamented with portions of carved oak from the old choir screen of the cathedral: the lower hall now contains the common room and the senate room of the University; in the former are hung several portraits of bishops, and in the latter is a carved fireplace of the early 17th century, bearing the arms of Bishop James: projecting from the lower hall into the courtyard is the gallery built by Bishop Tunstall (1530-59), which is of two stories, the lower having doors opening into the court; the walls are hung with elaborately wrought tapestry: the principal entrance is at the east end, and over the doorway is a large square mullioned window of five lights; this porch leads directly to the magnificent Norman doorway of Bishop de Puiset, which originally formed the main entrance to the old hall and was approached from without by a flight of steps; it is of three orders, and the mouldings of the arch, in their variety and singularity of design, and in the rich elaboration of their workmanship, are probably unrivalled: adjoining the porch is a semi-octagonal turret, with a clock: the present chapel, also built by Bishop Tunstall on the site of a previous chapel, the work of Bishop Ruthall (1508-22) extends at a slight angle between the old hall on the north and the keep on the east, and was lengthened at the east end by Bishop Cosin: the interior, lighted by large traceried windows, is panelled, and some of the panels at the east end bearing figures of the apostles, as well as the cornice of the organ gallery, are portions of a pulpit formerly in the cathedral: part of the screen work and the bench ends belonged to Ruthall’s chapel, but the carved oak stalls were brought by Tunstall from the Castle chapel, at Bishop Auckland: in the east window are Tunstall’s arms and badge, and the piscina of his chapel is intact, though now covered by panelling: the organ incorporates part of the old cathedral organ of Bernhardt Schmidt: near the chapel are rooms set apart for the use of the Bishop of Durham and which, it is said, were twice used by Charles I.

The keep, which stands on the mound, 44 feet in height, forming part of the original fortress, is an octagonal embattled structure 63 feet in diameter, which, after being long in ruins, was rebuilt about 1860, under the direction of Mr. A. Salvin, architect, on the ancient Norman foundations, and in outline it 110 doubt represents substantially the work of Bishop Flambard; a strong wall connects it with the buildings adjoining it on the west, and a curtain also extends from it to the main entrance; it now contains apartments for resident students.

The history of the Castle dates from a period anterior to the Conquest, and the Saxon fortress here is said to have been successfully defended against the Scots during a prolonged siege in 1040: in 1069, being already the residence of the Bishops of Durham, it was destroyed by fire, presumably by the Scots and Danes, who had in that year invaded England as far as York, in support of the claims of Edgar Atheling; and the rebuilding is affirmed to have been ordered by the Conqueror on his return from dispersing the forces of the invaders. During the civil war between Stephen and Maud (1138-45), David I. king of Scotland, her uncle, who had been so signally defeated at the battle of the “Standard” (Aug. 22, 1138), claimed the earldoms of Cumberland and Northumberland, and would have advanced to support his pretensions but for the determined attitude assumed by Bishop Geoffrey Rufus, who was a steadfast adherent of Stephen and in his Castle of Durham held an impregnable position; on his death in 1140-1, a Scotsman, William Cumin, fraudulently obtained possession of the Castle, and seized the temporalities of the see, which he held until displaced in 1144; the condition and appearance of the fortress at this time have been minutely detailed in a very curious Latin poem, written during the first half of the 12th century by Laurence, a monk, and in 1149 prior of the monastery of Durham, and the existing building still retains some of the portions and many of the features thus described. According to tradition, Wallace, after his defeat at Falkirk by Edward I. and Bek, bishop of Durham (22 July, 1298), obtained access to the Castle during the presence there of the king, by assuming the garb of a minstrel. In May, 1649, the Parliament sold the castle to Thomas Andrews, lord mayor of London, for £1,267.

Among the distinguished persons who from time to time have been entertained at the castle, may be mentioned the Empress Maud, wife of the Emperor Henry V. of Germany, and subsequently of Geoffrey, Count of Anjou, her son Henry II. of England, John, Henry III. Edward I. and II. Edward III. and Philippa his queen, James I. of Scotland and his consort Jane (Beaufort), Henry VI. Margaret, daughter of Henry VII. and queen of James IV. of Scotland, James I. of England, Charles I. on two occasions, and in 1827, the first Duke of Wellington and Sir Walter Scott.

Durham University

Senate, The Very Rev. The Warden; The Professors of Divinity, Greek, Mathematics, Hebrew & Medicine; The Master of University College; The Principal of Hatfield Hall; The Proctors; Arthur Beanlands M.A.; Rev. J. T. Fowler M.A.; G. Y. Heath M.D.; F. B. Jevons M.A.; Edw. Gleadowe Marshall M.A.; Robert Roby Redmayne M.A.

Durham Union

Board day, Saturday, fortnightly at the Board room, Crossgate, at 11 a.m. The Durham union comprises the following places:-Brancepeth, Brandon & Byshottles, Broom, Cassop, Castle Precincts, Coxhoe, Crossgate, Durham College, Elvet, Framwellgate, Hett, Kimbleworth, Magdalen Place, Pittington, Quarrington, St. Giles or Gilligate, St. Mary-le-Bow or North Bailey, St. Mary-the-Less or South Bailey, St. Nicholas, Shadforth, Sherburn, Sherburn Hospital, Shincliffe, Stockley, Sunderland Bridge, Tudhoe, Whitwell House, Willington: the population in 1881 was 64,346; rateable value, £283,933; area 44,213 acres.

Placed of Worship, with times of services.

The Cathedral.-Service performed twice every day; morning service, sun. at 10.30 a.m.; week days at 10 o’clock; afternoon service at 4 o’clock St. Giles’ Church, Gilesgate, Rev. Robert John Pearce D.C.L. vicar; Rev. Thomas W. Harding B.A. curate; sun. at 8 & 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 7.30 p.m.

St. Nicholas, Market place, Rev. Henry Elliott Fox M.A. vicar; Rev. H. B. Tucker M.A. curate; Sun. 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 7.30 p.m.

St. Oswald, Church street, Rev. Arthur William Headlam M.A. vicar; Rev. Ponsonby A. M. Sullivan. M.A. curate; holy communion, Sun. at 8 a.m. 2nd & 4th Sun. at 11.30 a.m.; 1st Sun. at 7 a.m.; matins 10.45 a.m.; evensong 6.30 p.m.; daily matins at 8 a.m.; holy com. on Thur. & saints’ days; evensong, Wed. & Fri. at 7.30 p.m.; daily during Lent & Advent.

St. Margaret, Crossgate, Rev. Henry Roberson M.A. rector; Rev. Theodore H. A. Morris B.A. curate; holy com. Sun. 8 a.m. & 1st & 3rd Sun. at 10.30 a.m.; matins 10.30 a.m.; evensong 6.30 p.m.; matins, daily 8 a.m.; evensong, Wed. 7.30 p.m.

St. Mary-le-Bow, North Bailey, Rev. William Hampson Walter M.A. rector; holy com. on the 1st Sun. in the month at 11 a.m.; 3rd Sun. at 8 & 11 a.m. & 6.30p.m.

St. Mary-the-Less, South Bailey, Rev. William Greenwell M.A. rector; Sun. at 11 a.m. St. Cuthbert (Catholic), Old Elvet, Rev. William Brown B.A. priest; mass, Sun. g & 11 a.m.; children’s service 3 p.m.; vespers & benediction 6.30 p.m.; mass, daily 8.30 a.m.; holy days 7 & 10 a.m.; Thur. & holy days at 7.30 p.m.

St. Godric (Catholic), Castle chare, Rev. Gregory A. Jones, priest; mass, Sun. 9 & 11 a.m.; children’s service 3 p.m.; vespers 6.30 p.m.; holy days, mass 7 & 9 a.m.; vespers 7.30 p.m.; mass, daily 8.30 a.m.

Congregational, Claypath, Rev. T. A. Wolfendale, minister; 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 7.30p.m.

Methodist New Connexion, North road, Revs. William Gilles (supt.) & Joseph P. Treloar, ministers; 10.30 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Mon. 7 p.m.

Presbyterian, Waddington street, Rev. William Barnett Cooper M.A. minister; 10.45 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Primitive Methodist, North road, Revs. WilliamBowe (supt.) & Matthew P. Davison, ministers; 10.30 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Thur. 7 p.m.

Wesleyan, 57 Old Elvet, Revs. Abel Wood (supt.), Samuel Adcock & A. J. Silcox, ministers; 10.30 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Wed. 7 p.m.

Wesleyan, Gilesgate; 2.30 & 6 p.m.; Thur. 7 p.m.

Schools

Durham Grammar School was originally founded about A.D. 1100, as the school of the Benedictine monastery, & was re-founded, after the suppression of the monasteries, by Henry VIII. A.D.1541; the present edifice was erected on a new site in 1844, at the expense of the Dean and Chapter of Durham, & is a spacious building, in the Tudor-Gothic style: the headmaster’s house, which adjoins the school buildings, is a large mansion of two storeys, in the style of the last century; there is also a residence for the second master & a large sanatorium arranged for 25 patients: the school is in connection with the cathedral establishment, provision being made by the statutes for the maintenance of an upper & under master & eighteen Junior King’s Scholarships of the value of £25 yearly, open to boys under 14 years of age & tenable for four years, &c nine Senior scholarships of the value of £40 a year, open to boys under 16 years of age & tenable for three years. The following scholarships & exhibitions are attached to the school & tenable at the universities:-Six exhibitions of £60 a year each, two vacant every year, tenable for three years at Oxford, Cambridge or Durham, open to candidates who have been at Darham school for at least three years; three exhibitions (one usually vacant every year) of £30 a year each at St. John’s college, Cambridge; two scholarships of £25 a year each, founded by Dr. Hartwell, canon of Durham, & tenable at any college or hall at Oxford or Cambridge for four years; one scholarship at Emmanuel college, Cambridge, of £16 a year, for which a preference is given to Durham & Newcastle schools; one scholarship of £30 a year at the University of Durham; one scholarship of £12 a year at the University of Durham; & one exhibition of £50 a year, founded by Ralph Lindsay esq. (formerly a King’s scholar at Durham school) & tenable at the University of Durham by natives of the diocese who have been educated at the school for three years. The school was greatly enlarged between 1874 & 1887 by the dean & chapter, &. will hold 200 boys: the endowment amounts to £835 yearly, derived from rent-charges & fixed yearly payments. Governors, the dean & chapter; Rev. James M. Marshall M.A. headmaster; Samuel Blackwell Guest Williams M.A. second master; Matthew W. Whitfield M.A. mathematical master; R. H. J. Poole M.A. assistant classical & mathematical master; O. T. Perkins M.A. F. A. Ker M.A. C. W. Patchell B.A. & F. E. Hewitt B.A. assistant masters; A. Scott M.A. physical science master; F. A. Ker M.A. foreign language master; John Nutton, singing master; F. Thompson, drawing master; Dr. Armes & S. Wilkinson, music masters; J. Wills, violin master.

The Diocesan Training College for Schoolmasters, now known as Bede College, Durham, Sc situated in Gilesgate, was established in 1841. The buildings form an extensive pile in the Domestic Gothic style & include a large dining hall; the college is supported, apart from fees, by the Privy Council & by voluntary gifts; students are admitted at eighteen & must be members of the Church of England. The government is vested in a committee, of which the Bishop of Durham is president. There is a model school for boys near the college buildings; Rev. Thomas Randell B.D. principal; Rev. Frederick L. H. Millard B.A. vice-principal; Messrs. James Dali B.A. & Wilfrid B. Urwin, tutors; Mr. Arthur T. Bott M.A. normal master; Mr. Andrew Carr, music master; Rev. Canon Whitley, treasurer; Rev. Canon Norman D.C.L. sec.

The Diosesan Training College for Schoolmistresses was built in 1858, on elevated ground in the parish of St. Giles, by public subscription, aided by Government grant & is a building in a simple Gothic style, consisting of a central block, with advanced gabled wings, an additional wing having been added in 1874. There are 64 students in residence, who are trained for a period of two years, & are admitted on the passing of the Government entrance examination & paying a fee of £10 for residents or £12 for non-residents of the diocese. In connection with the college there are practising girls & infants’ schools.

The High School for Girls, situate at 3 South Bailey, was established in 1884, & is governed by the Church Schools Company Limited, of which there is a local committee of twelve members. A thoroughly sound & practical education is provided, & pupils are prepared for the Oxford & Cambridge local examinations. There are at present (1889) 60 pupils.

The Durham Schools of Art Sc Science are situated in Sadler street; the former was established in 1853 & the latter in 1872; there are morning & evening classes, well attended; both are in connection with the Science & Art department, South Kensington, for 180 children; average attendance,100.

Gilesgate Board (infants), erected in 1885, for 120 children; average attendance, 95.

St. Giles’ National, situated at Gilesgate Moor; average attendance, 141.

St. Oswald’s National, Church street (mixed & infants), is a Luilding of stone, erected with residence & garden for the master in 1845, at a cost of £1,500.

St. Margaret’s National, situated in Marjary lane at the top of Crossgate, is a large building of stone, erected with teacher’s residence in 1859, & enlarged in 1889, for 494 children; average attendance, 330.

Choristers’, Palace green, Henry P. Meadon, master The Blue Coat School (mixed & infants) was originated in 1708. The present buildings, situated in Claypath, were erected by public subscription in 1812, the ground being purchased & given for that purpose by Bishop Barrington: in 1851 an infants’ school was added; it will hold 500 children; average attendance, 200 boys, 215 girls & 70 infants: it has an endowment of £12 yearly.

Catholic, Framwellgate, formerly a Presbyterian chapel, was purchased & adapted to its present use in 1865, it will hold 200 children; average attendance, 180.

Catholic, Old Elvet (mixed), is attended by upwards of 200 children of both sexes.

Wesleyan Day, 79 New Elvet, built in 1847, for 130 children; average attendance, 100.