Herefordshire is an inland shire on the border of Wales and partly peopled by Welsh. It is bounded on the north by Shropshire and Worcestershire, on the east by Worcestershire and Gloucestershire, on the south by Monmouthshire and Gloucestershire, and on the west by Radnorshire, Brecknockshire and Monmouthshire. It is about 40 miles long, by 36 miles broad, and its area is 537,363 acres. The population in 1801 was 88,436; in 1811, 53,526; 1821, 102,692; 1831, 110,617; 1841, 113,272; 1851, 115,489; 1861, 123,712; 1871, 125,370; in 1881, 121,062, and in 1891, 115,949. The number of males in 1891 was 56,090; females, 59,859; the number of houses in 1891 inhabited, 25,299; uninhabited, 2,253; building, 51. It lies between 51° 49' and 52° 24' north latitude, and between 20 20' and 3° 7' west longitude.

The earliest historical occupation of Wales recorded is hat of the Silures, a tribe of Iberian or Euskardian origin, who had displaced the Britons, or Welsh, in many parts of South and West Britain, but who, in the century before the coming of Julius Caesar, had themselves been driven back by newer comers—the Belgians. The Silurians held out against he Belgians, but had to give way to the Romans, under whose sway Herefordshire fell for four hundred years. Of he abode of the Silurians in the land, all that is left are the names of the rivers, as the Wye (Via of Spain), Lug (Liger of Gaul), Teme (Tamara of Spain), Leddon, and Monnow, Minius of Spain); but it is likely that some of the camps and barrows commonly thought to be Welsh are Iberian.

About the year 73 Julius Frontinus overcame the Silurians and took Herefordshire; and by the Romans it was very thickly peopled. The Silurians seem to have lost their nationality under the Romans and to have become Romanded. The land was covered with Roman ways, towns and villages. Watling Street passed by Brandon and Wigmore to Kenchester, and by way of Madley, Kingstone and Dore to Abergavenny.

Many Roman sites have been identified by coins and remains, but others are only known by their names. Among the recognizable Roman roads and ways besides Watling street, are the Ridgway, Greenway, Stanway, Garway, treekway, Barkway, Crossway, Trollway, Portway, Heargway, Whiteway, Holloway, Hurstway, Ridway, Godway, tradway, Blackway, Joraway, Storridge, Ockeridge, Coldge, Mintridge and Awkeridge.

The Roman towns and villages include Hereford, oughton, Burcott, Coldborough, Burton, Cowborough, Welchester, Overton, Stratford, Mordiford, Sandford, Walrd, Stanford, Ryford, Paunsford, Boresford, Walford, wyford, Ford, Longford, Stapleton, Overtown, Overbury, .retton Sugwas, Wareham, Eastnor, Bradnor, Dadnor, dnor, Chadnor, Hennor, and Kenchester (according to imden, the Roman Ariconium).

The Roman camps and military stations have given names as Bower (at Bridstow, Holme-Lacey and Kilpeck), Arbour Hill (Ross), Harbour (Goodrich), Shady Bower, and Lady rbour.

On the withdrawal of the Roman soldiers, the Welsh became masters of Britain, but were only a short time independent in East Herefordshire, which was taken by the English, settled by them and brought within the bounds XXX the great commonwealth or kingdom of Mercia, or the id Angles, founded by Cridda in 584. As early as 680 a nod was held at Hereford. It shortly took the name of Herefordshire, from its head town.

Offa the Great, king of Mercia (755-94), in 779 threw up XXX great wall called Offa’s Dyke, extending from Chester to the Wye, and beyond which, if any Welshman were found, the right hand was cut off.

In 819 the Danes became masters of Mercia, and made Ceolwulf king, but after the battle of Ellandune (823) in which the Mercians, under Beornwulf, were defeated by Egbert, king of Wessex, half of Mercia to the west and south of Watling Street fell under the sway of the West Saxon kings, the other half being left in the hands of the Norse Vikings. Being on the borders or Marches of Wales, it was, whether under English, Danish, or Norman lords, always at war with the neighbouring Welsh.

In 1461, 2 Feb. the battle of Mortimer’s Cross was fought at a site between Leominster and Wigmore, in the parish of Aymestry, between Edward, duke of York, afterwards Edwd. IV. and the Lancastrians under the earls of Pembroke and Wiltshire, when the latter were completely defeated, and Owen Tudor, being taken prisoner, was beheaded at Hereford on the same day. In 1645 and 1646 the city of Hereford was taken by the Royalists, but in the latter year it was won back for the Parliament by Sir William Waller.

There is only one Cold Harbour in this shire—namely, at Ivington. The only Coneygree, or Coneygore, is at Eastnor. There is an Old Gore at Yatton. There are many places which have the prefix Cold, commonly applied to Roman sites. There is a Hunger Hill at St. Weonard’s and at Sugwas, and a Hungerstone.

There are many places under the terms Broomhill, Bromley, Brampton &c. supposed by some to refer to Roman occupations.

Of ancient sites of uncertain origin there are many. There is a Bury at Orcop, Richard’s Castle, Pembridge, Eye, Monkland, Dinder, Weston-under-Penyard, Wigmore, Much Marcle and Hope-under-Dinmore. Other Buries are Bilbury, Kilbury, Kinbury, Thombury, Croft Ambury, Crumplebury, Aconbury, Whittlebury, Bredenbury, Avebury, Ledbury, Risbury, Newbury, Bosbury and Woodbury. All of these places are older than the English invasion, and many of them Roman. There is a barrow at Cradley. There are barrows or lows under the names of Radlow, Gillow, Marlow, Warlow, Winslow, Wolferlow, Callow, Bradlow, Hidelow, Shylow, Catlow, Docklow and Little Lowe. Tump is a peculiar term for barrow hills in the western shires. In Herefordshire it is found in Warmelow Tump, Minsclose Tump, Ant Tump, Castle Tump, Chapel Tump, Gallows Tump, Cockyard Tump, and in the Tumps at Bolston, Holme Lacy and Hope Mansel.

In the parish of Dorstone is a cromlech, called Arthur’s seat, a monument perhaps older than the Iberians and Celts.

There are many camps and entrenchments.

Of the Welsh sway there are few traces elsewhere than in West Herefordshire, where many of the names of places and many of the people are Welsh.

Among the English clans which are recognized as having taken part in the settlement are the Willing, Billing, Hunting, Holling, Bulling, Balling, Donning, Burring, Colling, Brocking, Tibbing, Nupping, Sparring, Monning, Nunning, Codding and Wassing.

The topographical nomenclature of Herefordshire derived from the first English settlers has the usual terms, and some that are peculiar. These are—ton, ham, hampton, hope, wood, dingle, croft, field, moor, cob or cop, knoll, knap, grove, coombe, elt and nett, den, don, holm, hyde, lea, leasow, hay, lye, heath, end, land, brook, well, hall and house.

Among other words are rough, for a common; yard, in Penyard, Bromyard &c.; rise, for a hill, hill side, or knoll; ward, in Broadward; rich, in Goodrich; rey, in Cobrey; wardine, in Lugwardine; meend, nash, latch and bage (not bach), as in Mowbage; tree, or trey; pole, as in Yarpole.

Scarce words are scar, thorne, home, worth, some, stow, by, stoke, how, stay, lynch, sitch, chart, holt, hurst, marsh, pitch, head, water, dine, acre, eye.

There is The Folly at Orleto and Eardisland, and in some other places; but the name is not so common as in some other shires.

There is a Cockshoot or Cockshut at Dewchurch, Down, Abbey Dore and Putley; at Orcop, is Cockshed Wood.

Much is used for great in many names, as, Much Birch, Much Dewchurch, Much Marcle &c.

By is found only in three or four names. Stow, stoke and worth are rarer here than in the south-west. There is no wich, and about ten wicks. There are many Hamptons.

Burnthouse is not very common.

Many places end in son, as in Wyson, Catson, Lewson &c.

There is a Furlong at Richard’s Castle and Little Hereford and Hound’s Furlong at Middleton.

Peculiar names are Mileshiggins, Pennyplock, Strickstenning, Scatterbrain, Bargeains, Chilsons Orts, The Stitches, Hodghatch, Goodshop, Queestmoor, Quell, The Queach, The Quob, The Yeld, Yare, The Wytch, The Plock, The Slade, Sough, Slatch, Tumingways, Twizling, Coldmanhill.

Hall and house are common enough names for dwellings, and among the latter names are barton, manor, court, grange.

Of the Normans there are remains in Hereford cathedral, the splendid chancel arches of Shobdon, Kilpeck, Leominster and Abbey Dore churches.

Herefordshire being a frontier county and within the inarches of Wales, there are considerable interesting remains of castles and fortified houses, as Brampton Bryan, Bransil, Goodrich, Longtown, Pembridge, Snodhill, Wigmore, Clifford and Wilton Castles. Among fortified houses may be mentioned Stepleton, Urishay, Eardisley, Kinnersley, and many others.

The shire is mostly hilly, watered by small hill streams subject to floods, and having for its chief watercourse the Wye, which is partly navigable for barges.

Herefordshire belongs mostly to the old red sandstone formation, and the soil is principally a deep, heavy, red loam, changing to clay or gravel.

The minerals include limestone, sandstone and other building stones, which are not much wrought.

This shire is well known for its breed of oxen, and many horses are also bred. Timber is much grown, and the oak is good; the mistletoe abounds on orchard and other trees. The orchards yield good cider and perry. Among the crops are wheat, barley, clover, vetches and turnips; hops are very largely grown in this county.

The manufacturing operations of Herefordshire are small. Brewing and malting are carried on. The mechanics are mostly engaged in the timber trade, carpenters, masons, smiths, tanners, skinners &c.

Except by means of the Wye to Chepstow and the Bristol Channel, Herefordshire is wanting in water communication.

The Wye, rising in the mountains of Wales, enters the county near Clifford, on its western boundary, and flows by Whitney, Bredwardine, Brobury, Preston-on-Wye, Byford, Bridge Solers, Hereford, Mordiford (where it receives the united waters of the Lugg and Frome rivers), Holme Lacy, Fownhope, Sellack, Fawley Chapel, Ross, Goodrich and Whitchurch, where it soon after leaves the county, passing by Monmouth and Chepstow to the Severn.

The Lugg flows by Aymestrey, Leominster, Ford, Bodenham, Marden, Moreton-upon-Lugg, Lugwardine, Hampton-Bishop and Mordiford, where, after receiving the waters of the Frome, it joins the Wye; the Arrow flows by Kington and Pembridge to the Lugg below Leominster.

The Pinsley brook rises near Shobdon, flows through Kingsland, and joins the Lugg at Leominster.

The Frome arises from the confluence of several brooks near Bromyard, whence it flows by Avenbury and Bishop’s Frome, Canon Frome, Yarkhill and Weston Beggard, to Hampton, where it joins the Lugg.

The one Leadon rises in Little Cowame, and runs by Much Cowarne to the,Frome at Yarkhill; the other Leadon flows by Bosbury, through Ledbury, to Gloucestershire.

The Garron rises in Orcop, and thence flows through Llangarron and Marston into the Wye.

The Monnow divides this county from Monmouth on the south-west.

The Dore flows through a district called the Golden Valley by Dorston, Peterchurch, Turnaston, Abbey Dore, to Kenderchurch and Pontrilas, where it joins the Monnow.

The Tame forms the north-east boundary of the county, dividing it from Worcestershire. The Escley Brook runs by Michaelchurch Eskley, Longtown and Clodock, to the Monnow.

The railways are chiefly branches of the Great Western system, but include also the Midland, Neath and Brecon, The Golden Valley, and a joint line of the London and North Western and Great Western railways, this latter starting from Hereford runs north to Leominster and on to Shrewsbury, from this line runs a branch of the Great Western from Woolferton in the north of the county, eastward to Tenbury and Bewdley; and a little south of this line, another branch goes eastward from Leominster to Steensbridge, and westward to Titley, whence it continues to Kington, and new Radnor sending branches north to Presteigne, and south to Bardisley, and here it connects with the Midland, Neath and Brecon railway (a line from Hereford to Hay, Brecon, &c). The Golden Valley railway leaves Hay for Pontrilas, where it meets the Great Western branch from Hereford to Abergavenny, and from Hereford there are two other branches of the Great Western, one south-west to Ross, and thence to Gloucester and Monmouth; the other east to Ledbury and to Worcester, while from Worcester a branch runs to Bromyard, and this will ultimately be continued to meet the Leominster branch at Steensbridge.

Herefordshire is in the Oxford circuit. The assizes and quarter sessions are held at Hereford. County courts are held at Hereford, Leominster, Ross, Kington, Bromyard and Ledbury; the county contains 257 civil parishes and parts of 3 others; has one court of quarter sessions, and is divided into 11 petty sessional divisions.

For ecclesiastical purposes the shire is within the province of Canterbury and diocese of Hereford, and is divided into the archdeaconries of Hereford and Ludlow. Hereford archdeaconry is subdivided into the rural deaneries of Ardenfield, Frome, north and south divisions, Hereford, Leominster (two divisions), Ross, Weobley (one and two divisions), and Weston. Ludlow archdeaconry is subdivided into the rural deaneries of Clun, Ludlow, Pontesbury, and parts of Stottesden, Bridgnorth and Wenlock (two divisions).

The number of townships for poor law purposes under the name of townships and parishes is 275 or rather more than two square miles in a township. The number of townships for highway and manorial purposes is about 380.

The population within the parliamentary bounds of the city of Hereford is 20,267, including seven parishes in the city and three in the out-liberties. The municipal borough of Leominster has a population of 5,675. The other towns are—Ledbury, with 4,303 people; Ross, with 4,897; Weobley, 804; Bromyard, 1,460; Kington, 2,086; and Pembridge, 1,129.

The Hereford General Infirmary for the City and County of Hereford, a plain building of red brick, is pleasantly seated near the river, a short distance south-east from the Castle walks, Hereford, and was first opened for the reception of patients 26 March, 1776. The original promoter of this institution was the late Rev. Dr. Talbot, rector of Ullingswick, who died in 1787, and the site on which it stands was given in 1776 by the Right Hon. the Earl of Oxford, and that on which the lodge has been erected was purchased by subscription in 1865: there are 11 wards and 2 isolation wards, and the institution is now capable of receiving 109 patients, viz.47 males, 42 females and 20 children. The number of in-patients attended to during 1893 was 684 and of out-patients, 2,706; total number of patients in the year 1893, 3,390; the average number of in-patients is 60; the infirmary is supported by subscriptions. A. R. Smith M.D. & Paul M. Chapman M.D. physicians; Henry Vevers, Thomas Turner, Richard Thomason & Edgar Freeman Morris, surgeons; George C. McAdam L.D.S.Eng. dental surgeon; H. Gilbert Nicholson, house surgeon; Rev. Henry Askwith M.A. chaplain; Charles B. Beddoe, sec.; A. Berry, dispenser; Miss A. Sharp, matron.

The Victoria Eye and Ear Hospital, Hereford, was first established in Commercial road in 1883, under the name of the “Herefordshire and South Wales Eye and Ear Institution,” but in 1888-9 buildings were erected in Eign street, of red brick with stone dressings, from the designs of Mr. E. H. Lingen Barker, architect, of Hereford, at a cost of £3,000; the hospital is entirely supported by annual subscriptions and donations, and will hold 14 in-patients; the annual average being 1,000 out and in-patients combined; during 1893, 1,051 cases were treated, 780 being for diseases of the eye and its appendages and 271 for diseases of the ear; 105 persons were admitted as in-patients and 96 important operations were performed. Francis Woodley Lindsay L.R.C.P.Edin. surgeon; Alfred Henry Matthews, hon. sec.

Her Majesty’s Prison for Hereford and district, in Commercial road, Hereford, erected during 1792-8, under the direction of Mr. Nash, architect, at a cost of £18,646, is enclosed within a high brick wall, with a rusticated gateway: the prison has been much improved and considerably enlarged, and will now hold 125 prisoners from the city and county of Hereford, and from Radnorshire: it was transferred to the Government on the 1st of April, 1878. Joseph Flockton, chief warder in charge and acting governor; Rev. G. L. Spencer, chaplain; Henry Vevers, medical officer; Richard Moore, clerk to visiting justices.

The Hereford County and City Lunatic Asylum at Burghill, about 3 miles from Hereford, was erected in 1871 at a cost of £67,000 and is a structure of brick, from designs by Mr. Griffiths, architect, of Stafford, covering about 10 acres of land and is available for 400 inmates, 187 men and 213 women: there is also a farm and a garden of 100 acres; the house committee meet on the first Tuesdays in every month and the general committee of visitors quarterly. Thomas Algernon Chapman M.D. medical superintendent; Cuthbert Stanislaus Morrison L.R.C.P.Edin. assistant medical officer; Rev. Compton Reade M.A. chaplain; Edward Browning, clerk and steward; Mrs. Elizabeth Ann Smith, housekeeper.

Parliamentary Representation of the County of Hereford

Herefordshire formerly returned three members to Parliament, but by the “Redistribution of Seats Act, 1885,” it now returns two members in two divisions.

The Northern, or Leominster, division comprises the sessional divisions of Bredwardine, Bromyard, Kington, Leominster, Weobley and Wigmore, and the municipal borough of Leominster.

The Southern, or Ross, division comprises the sessional divisions of Dore, Harewoods End, Hereford, Ledbury and Ross, and the municipal borough of Hereford.

Members of Parliament

Northern Division.—James Rankin esq. M.A., D.L., J.P. Bryngwyn, Hereford; & 35 Ennismore gardens S W & New University, Carlton & St. Stephen’s clubs, London S W.

Southern Division.—Michael Biddulph esq. D.L., J.P. Ledbury; Kemble house, Cirencester; & 19 Ennismore gardens S W & Reform & Brooks’ clubs, London S W.

The county also contained the borough of Hereford, returning two members and Leominster returning one; of these Leominster is now merged in the northern division of the county, and Hereford returns one member only.

Military

The troops in this county are under the North-Western District command. Head quarters, Chester.

Regimental District, No. 53, Shrewsbury, Hereford is the head quarters of the 4th Battalion the King’s Shropshire Light Infantry (Hereford Militia.)

Volunteers

Welsh Border Brigade.

Head quarters and place of assembly, Shrewsbury.

The Brigade is formed of the following Battalions :— 2ndVolunteerBattalionChes.Regiment,head quarters,Chester 1stVolunteerBattalion R.W. Fusiliers, head quarters, Wrexham 2nd Volunteer Battalion R. W. Fusiliers, head quarters, Rhyl 1st Volunteer Battalion Shropshire Light Infantry, head quarters, Shrewsbury.

2nd Volunteer Battalion Shropshire Light Infantry, head quarters, Newport.

1st Herefordshire R.V.C. head quarters, Hereford Bearer Company.

1st Herefordshire Rifles (Hereford & Radnor).

Fairs & Markets

Brampton Brian, June 21, for sheep & June 22, for horses & cattle.

Bromyard, Thursdays before March 25; March 25, for hiring; May 1, for hiring; May 3; Thursdays before July 25; September 29, for hiring, & Thursdays before October 29; market day, Thursday.

Eardisley, May 15, for pleasure & hiring servants.

Hereford, Wednesday after February 2, Easter Wednesday, first Wednesday after May 2, first Wednesday in July, third Wednesday in August, third Wednesday in October, for cattle & sheep, the second Wednesday in December; horse fair, first Wednesday in every month; market days, Wednesday & Saturday.

Huntington, July 18 & November 13, for live stock.

Kingsland, October 11, for cattle, sheep, horses & pigs Kington, Tuesday before February 2 (horses), Tuesday before Easter (horses), second Tuesday in March, May 11 (pleasure), first Tuesday in June, second Tuesday in July, first Tuesday in August, September 18 (sheep & pigs only) &; 19 (cattle & horses), Tuesday before October 10, second Tuesday in November & second Tuesday in December; market day, Tuesday; a cattle market is held the first Tuesday in each month.

Ledbury, second & last Tuesday in every month; market day, Tuesday.

Leintwardine, May 7, for pleasure.

Leominster, February 13, Tuesday after Mid-Lent Sunday, May 2, second Friday in June, July 10, August 4, September 4, Monday before the third Wednesday in October & November 8; market day, Friday; markets are held on the first Friday after December 11, called” the great market before Christmas,” & on the first Friday in every month.

Longtown, April 29, for sheep & cattle, & September 21, for hiring servants.

Orleton, April 23, for cattle.

Pembridge, May 13, for hiring.

Peterchurch, Monday before February 2, second Monday in March (horse), May 16 (hiring), last Monday in June, first Monday in September & first Monday in October for hiring.

Ross, second Thursday in March, May, June, October & December; market day, Thursday; & a cattle market every second Thursday.

Weobley, May 8, for pleasure.

Wigmore, May 6, for hiring & August 5, for cattle & sheep.

Hereford County Council

Local Government Act, 1888, 51 & 52 Vic. c. 41.

Under the above Act, Herefordshire, after the 1st April, 1889, for the purposes of the Act, became a separate and distinct administrative county (sec. 4616) governed by a County Council, consisting of chairman, aldermen and councillors (the number of councillors being determined by the Local Government Board), to be elected in manner prescribed by the Act (sec. 2).

The chairman of each council is, by virtue of his office, a justice of the peace for the county, without qualification (sec. 46).

The police for the county is under the control of a standing joint committee of the Quarter Sessions and the County Council, to be appointed as therein mentioned (sec. 9).

The coroners for the county are elected by the County Council, and the clerk of the peace appointed by such joint committee, and may be removed by them (sec. 83-2).

The clerk of the peace for the county is also the clerk of the County Council (sec. 83-1).

The administrative business of the county (which would, if this Act had not been passed, have been transacted by the justices) is now transacted by the County Council.

The Council meets at the Shire hall, Hereford, on 2nd Saturday in January, April, July & October, also on a day between the 8th and 18th of March.

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BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT

HEREFORDSHIRE is bounded on the north by Shropshire; on the north-east and east, by Worcestershire; on the south-east, by Gloucestershire; on the south-west by Monmouthshire; on the west by Brecknockshire; and on the north-west by Radnorshire. It is of an elliptical form, though some detached parishes are situated beyond the general outlines; of these, Farlow is sounded by Shropshire; Rochford is in the county of Worcester, and Lytton Hill is in that of Radnor; a considerable tract of land, called the Futhong, and a few acres on the Devandin Hill, is insulated by Monmouthshire. The greatest extent of this county, from Ludford on the north, to the opposite border, near Monmouth on the south, is 33 miles, and its greatest width, from Clifford on the west, to Cradley on the east, is 35 miles, its circumference being about 108 miles, and containing about 800,000 acres.

SOIL

The soil of this county is extremely fertile, yielding fine pasture, and great quantities of corn, &c. Its general character is a mixture of marie and clay, containing a large proportion of calcareous earth. The substrata is mostly lime-stone, of different qualities; in some parts, particularly near Ledbury, assuming the properties of marble, and being beautifully variegated with red and white veins. Towards the western borders the soil is cold, being retentive of moisture, but argillaceous, having a base of soft crumbling stone, which decomposes on exposure to the atmosphere. The eastern side of the county consists principally of a stiff clay, of great tenacity and strength, and in some places of a red colour; a considerable part of the hundred of Wormelow, which lies to the south, is a light sand. In the vicinity of Hereford, deep beds of gravel are occasionally met with, and the subsoil of some of the hills consists of a siliceous grit. Fuller’s earth is dug near Stoke, and in different parts of the county, red and yellow ochres, and tobacco-pipe clay, are found in small quantities. On the parts bordering on Gloucestershire, iron ore has been frequently met with, though none has been dug of late years; yet from the considerable quantities that have been discovered, imperfectly smelted, and from the remains of hand blomaries, which have been found, it is supposed that some iron-works were established here as early as the time of the Romans.

CLIMATE

The air of this county is in general pure, and consequently healthy, particularly between the Wye and the Severn, which has given occasion to a proverb very common among the inhabitants of this county, “Blessed is the eye between Severn and Wye.“

NAME AND ANCIENT HISTORY

This county takes its name from the city of Hereford, which is said to be pure Saxon, and to signify, the Ford of the army; or from the Welsh word Hênfford (the old road, or way.) Either supposition, certainly, is significant of the situation of the place, which stands on the Wye, and was formerly the barrier between England and Wales. As the two nations were almost always at war one with another, this town was generally the head quarters of such Saxon or English forces as were stationed in the county; and at this place both armies probably forded the river, when they passed out of Walesin to England, or out of England into Wales. This account of the derivation of the name is, however, somewhat doubtful, as the ancient British name of the county was Ereinuc; and it is therefore conjectured that Here, the first part of the Saxon name, was implicitly borrowed from Erei, the first part of the British; so that except Erei in British, and Here in Saxon, have the same signification, Hereford was not intended to expresss the ford of the army. What Erienuc signifies is not known, but the Saxons probably only changed the termination, and called the place the ford of Erie, considering Erie not as a significant word, but the proper name of the place. Some, however, have supposed that both the British and Saxon names were derived from Ariconium, the name of an ancient town near this place, mentioned by Antoninus, which is said to have been destroyed by an earthquake, and Hereford to have been built in its stead, Another derivation is assigned to Hereford by the author of the Leominster Guide. After the town had been destroyed by the Welsh, Harold is recorded to have built the walis of the city, and to have strengthened the castle, and after him the place, which is now often termed Hartford by the peasantry, was called Haroldford, signifying Harold's Fort, or Castle, Herefordshire, together with Radnorshire, Brecknockshire, Monmouthshire, and Glamorganshire in Wales, constitute that district which at the period of the Roman invasion was inhabited by the Silures, a brave and hardy people, who, in conjunction with the Ordovices, or inhabitants of North Wales, for a considerable time retarded the progress of the Roman arms; for it appears that the grand object of all the operations of Ostorius Scapula, who commanded under the Emperor Claudius, was the conquest of these nations, which had chosen the brave Caractacus as their chieftain.

Aulus Plautius, the predecessor of Ostorius, had constructed in the vicinity of the Severn and the Avon, a chain of forts, which, on the arrival of Ostorius, appears to have been occupied by the Roman army, previous to which the country of the Silures and Ordovices had suffered no diminution from the Roman arms; “the frontier of the one, now the county of Hereford, (says Mr. Duncomb) met the frontier of the other, Shropshire, on the border of the present county of Worcester; and there presented the nearest, if not the only point of attack, from which Ostorius could make an impression on both nations, or take advantage of circumstances to act against either. This geographical statement has led to a conjecture, that a line of entrenchments, extending on the banks of the river Teme, from the vicinity of Worcester, to the scene of the subsequent battle, was occupied by Caractacus and Ostorius, the former retreating as the latter advanced; and thus drawing on the Romans to a place advantageously formed for defence, and as much as possible detached from any assistance which might be afforded to them in case of their defeat, or any other emergency.

“This line is supposed to have begun on Malvern Hills, where British and Roman entrenchments are still to be seen. The two next, the one Roman the other British, occurred at Whitburn; they were situated on the opposite sides of a valley, as if opposed to each other; but the traces of both are now almost obliterated. The fourth is at Thornbury, a British post of great strength, between Bromyard and Leominster. The fifth at Croft, another very strong British camp, between Leominster and Wigmore. The sixth is a large Roman entrenchment, called Brandon; and the seventh, which is British, is on Coxwall-Knoll, near Brampton-Bryan. Near Downton, also, on the oast of Leintwardine, is a small entrenchment, which was apparently thrown up to guard the passage of the Teme, at that place; and was probably connected with the operations supposed to have taken place on the line above mentioned.

“Recurring to the proceedings of the Britons, we learn from Tacitus, that, in addition to their natural valour, they were now animated by confidence in a leader, whom neither prosperity could unguard, nor adversity deject; and whose tame had far surpassed that of all bis cotemporaries. Inferior in numbers, but trusting to his own military skill and knowledge of the country, Caractacus determined that the territories of the Ordovices should be the scene of his defence; and the spot which he finally chose for the struggle, is described by the historian as in all respects discouraging to his enemies, and favourable to himself. Where nature had not rendered the eminence inaccessible, he piled large stones on each other in the form of a rampart; a stream of a regular depth flowed in his front, and a strong body of troops were stationed on the outside of his works in battle array. The leaders of the various tribes prepared them for the contest, by exciting their hopes, by inflaming their resentments, and by urging every motive, that could animate their valour. Caractacus himself, darting through the ranks, exclaimed, 'Remember, Britons, this day is to decide, whether we shall be slaves or free! Recollect and imitate the achievements of our ancestors, whose valour expelled Julius Cæsar from our coasts, rescued their country from paying tribute to foreigners, and saved their wives and their daughters from infamy and violation! ' Inflamed by this address, everyone shouted applause, and bound themselves, by their peculiar oaths, to conquer or perish.

“Ostorius was staggered by the resolute appearance and formidable position of his adversaries: but his troops eagerly demanded battle, and exclaimed that Roman valour could surmount every obstacle. Observing, therefore, what points were most proper for the attack, he led on his army, and forded the river without difficulty: but, before they could reach the rampart of stone, the Romans suffered severely from the darts of the Britons, and success long appeared doubtful. At length, forming the testudo, or shell, by locking their shields together over their heads, they leached the wall, and making several breaches in it, brought on a close engagement, Unprovided with helmets or breastplates, the Britons could not withstand the attack, but fell back towards the summit of the hill; a few desperate efforts from this point could not avail them, and victory declared for the Romans. The wife and daughter of Caractacus were taken on the field of battle; and his brothers surrendered themselves prisoners; he himself escaped into the country of the Brigantes, and claimed the protection of their queen, Cartismandua; but dreading the resent, ment of the Romans, which had been recently directed against her territories, she was induced to deliver him bound to Ostorius.”

Antiquaries and historians have greatly differed respecting the spot on which this important battle was fought; according to Camden, it took place on the high eminence called Caer-Caradock, in Shropshire, about three milts north from the Teme, near the junction of the Jay and the Coln with that river. General Roy, however, in his military antiquities, originally suggested the real scene of this action to have been at Coxwall Knoll, which idea is likewise adopted by Mr. Duncomb, who observes, that the situation, and other circumstances of this eminence, strikingly correspond with the account given by the Roman historians.

“Coxwall Knoll (he continues) is situated in a beautiful valley, near Brampton Bryan; it is luxuriantly covered wide wood; one part of it, that towards the south, is within the limits of Herefordshire, whilst that towards the north is within those of Shropshire. On the top is a very strong entrenchment, of British construction, and of much greater extent than that at Caer-Caradoek. The access is difficult on all sides; on the south an artificial terrace is cut along the brow of the hill in front of the entrenchments; and the river Teme continually varies in its depth and impetuosity, according to the proportion of rain received into its channel from the adjacent hills. Immediately opposite, and at the distance of one mile, with the river between them, is the Roman post of Brandon, a single square work, with four posts, more strong towards Coxwall than in any other part.

“In the supposed line of march by Caractacus, and Ostorius, the latter would occupy Brandon, when the former had retreated to Coxwall. Thus situated, the formidable situation of the Britons, and the obstacles to be encountered in attacking them, were all within view of the Romans: they demanded and were led to the combat: fording the river, they reached the rampart, which probably stood on the artificial terrace described by General Roy, and finally defeated the Britons in the entrenchments above. To these conjectures, which are offered with the utmost deference, it may be opposed, that the Teme near Coxwall is but an inconsiderable river, having a smooth and gravelly bottom, and so little water, except when flooded from the hills, that troops may march across it in line for two or three miles together. To this it is replied, that all rivers suffer some decrease, in proportion as the country through which they pass becomes more cultivated; that the words of Tacitus, ‘praefluebat amnis vado incerto,' evidently apply to a river subject to frequent variations; that no difficulties were experienced when the fording Took place, 'amnenque haud difficulter avadit;' and that probably the Romans exaggerated the obstacles to increase their own reputation.”

A temporary suspension of the war was produced by the defeat and captivity of Caractacus; but the determined spirits of the Silures, were, however, not yet subdued; for, after a short interval of preparation, they again took the field, and by their sudden attacks, whenever circumstances afforded a prospect of success, they kept the Romans in perpetual alarm; they were likewise rendered desperate by a declaration of Ostorius, that the very name of the Silures should be extirpated, as that of the Sigambri had been in Gaul; so far, however, was the purpose of this general from being accomplished, that he himself fell a victim to the fatigue and anxiety occasioned by the increased success of the Silurian arms.

Neither coercion nor clemency, during the various successive proprietorships for upwards of 20 years, were able to reduce the Silures to Roman bondage; at length, however, the superior discipline of the Roman soldiers, aided by the military talents of Julius Frontinus, their general, obliged this brave people, after relinquishing to the enemy the Forest of Dean, and the present counties of Hereford and Monmouth, to retire into the fastnesses of Wales, from whence, offering no farther resistance to the Roman domination, the complete and undisturbed possession of South Britain was thus insured to the conquerors, who included Herefordshire in the district named Britannia Secunda.

Magna, now Kenchester, [In the fields now under cultivation, (belonging to Mr. Hardwick, of Ludenhill) at Kenchester, the remains of Roman pottery, coins, &c, are often ploughed up, and a tessclated pavement, in an imperfect state, was discovered a few years ago.] and Ariconium, near Ross, two of the principal stations of the Itinerary of Antoninus, together with the post of Bravinum, or Brandon, are situated within the limits of this county. The Watling street also enters it on the north from Shropshire, near Leintwardine, whence, after passing the river Teme, it proceeds to the camp of Brandon, and continuing in a southern direction passes by Wigmore, Mortimer’s Cross, Street, Stretford, and Portway, to Kenchester, from whence inclining to the south-west, after crossing the river Wye, near the Wear, and passing Kington, Dore, and Long-town, enters Monmouthshire and proceeds to Abergavenny, the Gobannium of the Romans: this road is very visible near Madley; and several entrenchments likewise occur in different parts of the line as it crosses Herefordshire. A second Roman road enters this county on the south east from Gloucestershire, which appears to have connected the stations of Glevum, or Gloucester, Ariconium Blestium, or Monmouth, and Burrium, or Usk. A third Roman road enters this county from Worcestershire, and passing Frome Hill, Stretton-Gransham, or Grandison, Lugg-bridge, Holmer, and Stretton-Sugwas, proceeds to Kencbester; and to the south of the Herefordshire Beacon, is a fourth ancient road, called the Ridgeway, which extends for several miles towards Eastnor in a kind of circular direction.

The Silures, on the decline of the Roman power, were among the first in attempting to regain that independence which they had been the last in surrendering; for uniting with the other Britons, under the successive commands of Uther Pendragon, and Arthur, they once more displayed their bravery, in defending the island from Saxon usurpation: their resistance, however, proved unavailing, in consequence of the numerous hordes of these barbarians, which were continually landing upon our shores, and the internal divisions, that subsisted among the natives; so that the Britons being driven to the mountains of Wales, Herefordshire became incorporated with the Saxon kingdom of Mercia; this however, was not effected till the Saxon power in this district had arrived at its greatest height, under the renowned Offa, who, the better to secure his kingdom, which comprehended the greatest part of this county, together with considerable portions of Radnorshire, Monmouthshire, and Shropshire, made a broad ditch, 100 miles in length, some traces of which are still visible; and for still greater security he removed his court to South-town, now Sutton, about three miles north-west from Hereford, where he erected a palace, which he defende end of the entrenchments. The Danes, about the end of the eighth century, obtained si temporary possession of Mercia, but were expelled by Benthred, the lawful prince, who, after a reign of about 20 years, was himself defeated by these invaders, and deprived of his kingdom; which was soon afterwards subdued by Alured, king of the West Saxons, who annexed it to his own, and chose as his successor Egbert, who having united the various Saxon states into one sovereignty, thus laid the foundation of the glory and pre-eminence of Britain. Herefordshire, however, during the wars which occurred, between the time of the reign of this prince, and the complete subjugation of Wales, suffered greatly from the different incursions made by the brave descendants of the ancient Britons at various periods.Stolen from Fore bears

population, &c.

The population of this county consisted, according to the late returns, of 103,243 inhabitants. Herefordshire returns eight members to parliament; viz. two for the county, two for the city of Hereford, two for Leominster, and two for Weobly.

RIVERS AND CANALS

An act of parliament was obtained in 1791, for making a navigable canal from the city of Hereford by the town of Ledbury, to the Severn, at Gloucester, with a lateral cut to the collieries at Newent. The advantages proposed, were an easy communication between the county of Hereford and the ports of Bristol, Liverpool, and Hull; and also parts of South Wales, and those ports, besides easy access to large and valuable mines of coal, and quarries of lime-stone, as well as improvement of lands and estates in the vicinity of the intended line of the canal. The money was to be raised by subscription shares, and the expense of completing the canal, was estimated, by the surveyor, at 69,000l. But this estimate was so erroneous, that after 100,000l. had been expended, the design was not half completed; the canal terminating at Ledbury, and the loss, to the subscribers, was very considerable. An act for another canal, to extend from Kington to Leominster, and thence to Stourport, was obtained soon after the former one. Lime and coal from Shropshire, were stated the principal objects of importation, and the produce of the county, those for export. The expense between Kington and Leominster was estimated at 37,000l., and between Leominster and Stourport, at 83,000l. A part of the extent between Leominster and Stourport was completed in 1796, without reaching so far as Stourport, and has been found very advantageous to the country through which the canal passes. A miscalculation of the expenses, similar to that of the other canal, prevented the completion of the design.

The principal rivers and streams of Herefordshire are, the Wye, the Lug, the Munnow, the Arrow, the Frome, the Teme, and the Leddon. Of these the Wye is the most beneficial to the immediate purposes of agriculture, in the conveyance of wheat and flour to Bristol, of coal for burning limestone, and also in the conveyance of lime from t he kiln to distant parts of the county. The Wye is called, in the British language, Gwy, and in the Latin, Vaga, from the frequent variations of its course.

“Meander, who is said so intricate to be,

“Has not so many turns and crankling nooks as she.”

“Pleas’d Vaga echoes through her winding bounds,

“And rapid Severn hoarse applause resounds.“

About the year 939. Athelstan having reduced the Britons to a temporary subjection, appointed the river Wye to be the boundary between England and Wales. And to this day, the Welsh side abounds with names of places derived from the British language, whilst they rarely occur on the other: “Inde vagos Vaga Cambrenses, bine respecit Anglos.” The Wye rises, as well as the Severn, near the summit of the mountain of Plimlimmon, in Montgomeryshire, and having divided the counties of Breck rock and Radnor, it enters that of Hereford, near the Hay, between the parishes of Whitney and Clifford.

The barges used on the Wye, which is navigable to Hereford, are from eighteen to forty tons burthen; but either a large or a small supply of water is equally fatal to the navigation. “The latter, (says Mr. Duncomb) is experienced during the greater part of every dry summer, when shoals barely covered with the stream, occur very frequently; in winter, heavy rains, or snow dissolving on the rivers banks, within the county, have the effect of gradually adding a few inches to the depth; but when these rush into its channel, from the mountains of Brecknock and Radnorshire, they occasion an almost instantaneous overflow, and give it a force which defies all the ordinary means of resistance.

Passing Hereford, Ross, Monmouth, and Chepstow, it is received into the channel of the Severn, having watered and adorned a tract of this county from forty to fifty miles in extent, not only equal in its varied beauties to any scenery of a similar kind in England, but worthy perhaps to be compared with the most admired views on the continent. These beauties have been delineated by so many able writers, such as Mr. Mason, Mr. Gilpin, Mr. Ireland, and others, that it is not attempted to detail them here. The general character of the river, between Whitney and Hereford, is mild and pleasing, consisting of delightful reaches, with the most agreeable landscapes and luxuriant scenery on their sides. From Hereford to Ross its features occasionally assume, more of boldness; but under Capellar-hill, and between Caple and Fawley, the reaches are again strikingly beautiful.

Approaching Goodrick Castle, between Ross, and Monmouth, a peninsula seven miles in extent is formed by the circuit of the river, whilst the neck of land reaches only one mile between the opposite points. —New and pleasing objects now rapidly succeed each other; and the romantic village of Whitchurch, stupendous hills, and hanging rocks, exhibital together a climax of beauties picturesque, sublime, and terrific.

The principal fish taken in the Wye is the salmon, which is well known to leave the sea at various periods, and penetrate, as far as is practicable, towards the sources of the greater rivers, where they deposit their spawn secure from the ebbing and flowing of the tides. Other motives appear also to attract them, as the season of coming is not coniined to that of spawning, nor does it seem to depend, in any particular degree, on a greater supply of food than usual; an occasional change of water is probably grateful, if not essential to them. They are found in the Wye at all times, but they are only in perfection from December to August. Their passage up the stream is at present so much obstructed by weirs, that unless the water is swelled far above its usual height, they cannot advance. This circumstance, and the illegal practice of taking the young salmons, provincially termed last springs, have rendered them much less plentiful than formerly, when they abounded in this river.

The price of salmon in Hereford market was formerly one penny per pound; it now varies from eight-pence to half-a-crown, according to the time and other circumstances. The degrees of perfection in which they are taken, vary not only with the season, but also in proportion to the time elapsed since they have quitted the sea. After a short continuance in fresh water, they tend rapidly to impoverishment; and as they are stationary at no other time, but when there is not a sufficient stream to admit of their proceeding, a moderate swell puts the new fish in motion, and enables the fishermen to calculate their approach with considerable accuracy. They are very rarely found to advance against a current of very cold or very hard water; when, therefore, the Wye is swelled by snow dissolving in large quantities from the sides of the mountains to wards its source, which occasionally happens as late as April, or even May, all attempts to take them are suspended for the time. Nor are they frequently intercepted by the fishermen, when returning to the sea, as it is known that the voyage which they have performed has deprived them of their principal value; and in this state they are denominated old fish. The spawn, deposited in the river, produces fish of a very minute size, which about April becomes as heavy as a gudgeon, but more taper and delicate in their form; these are in some parts termed salinon-fry, or salmon-pinks, but are here known by the name of last-springs, from the date of their annual appearance, and are readily taken by the artificial fly. And if this mode of catching them was alone resorted to, the supply of salmon would probably be far more abundant than it now is. Two kinds of last-springs are found in the Wye; the one, which is the larger and more common sort, leaves the river during the spring floods; the other is termed the gravel last-spring, and is met with particularly on shoals, during the whole of the summer. The general opinion is, that the last-gprings, having made a voyage to the sea, return botchers in the beginning of the following summer. Botchers are taken from three to twelve pounds weight; they are distinguished from the salmon by a smaller head, more silvery scales, and by retaining much of the delicate appearance of the last-spring. In the third year they become salmons, and often weigh from forty to fifty pounds each. These are generally received opinions respecting the progress of the last-spring to the botcher and salmon; but it must not be omitted, that some able naturalists of the present time contend, that the last spring and botcher are each distinct in their species from the salmon, and that the botcher resembles the suin taken in the Welsh rivers, or even that it is the same fish. A question has also been suggested, whether the gravel last-spring may not proceed from the botcher.

Other sea fish occasionally taken in the Wye are, shad, flounders, lampreys, and lamperns; but none of these are met with frequently, or in abundance. A shoal of shad is generally the forerunner of a shoal of salmon; flounders have been caught from February to May; the season for lamperns is during March and April; and that of lampreys, May and June. The lamprey, which is highly esteemed as a delicacy, removes the pebbles from particular spots in the most rapid stream, and thus forms a very insecure retreat, which is provincially termed a bed; and in these they are taken with a spear. The female is of a rounder form than the male, and contains a large quantity of spawn, which is deposited in the bed, and fecundated after passing through the body of the fish. The lamprey appears to possess an internal heat, equal perhaps to terrestrial animals.

Besides these, the Wye has the usual kinds of river-fish, including pike, grayling, trout, perch, eels, and gudgeons.

The river Lug rises in Radnorshire, and entering Herefordshire on the north-west border near Stapleton castle, in the hundred of Wigmore, is almost immediately augmented by a stream called the Wadel; when taking a direction nearly east, it receives the Pinslty (once the Oney), at Leominster. Inclining afterwards towards the south, it is aided by the more considerable stream of the Arrow, between Eaton and Stoke, in the hundred of Wolphy, and of Frome, between Lugwardine and Mordiford. The whole is after received by the Wye, immediately below the pleasant village of Mordiford, after passing a fine and fertile part of the county, about thirty miles in extent, without calculating the circumflexions in its course. The Lug is in general too narrow and too much sunk within its banks to bean object of beauty: in some other respects it resembles the Wye, being impatient of control, and liable to sudden overflow, not solely from causes common to most rivers, but also from being dammed up, or driven back by the higher current of the Wye, at the point of their junction.

A similar inconvenience, with respect to navigation, is experienced when the Lug is swelled by partial rains, which have not equally affected the Wye; a rapidity and force are then given to the Lugin its discharge into the Wye, which it will probably be ever difficult to restrain or correct. An Act of Parliament passed in 1663, and a second about thirty years after, for the purpose of rendering the Lug navigable, but unforeseen difficulties arose, and nothing was effected. A private subscription was applied in the year 1714, with more success for a time, and a few barges navigated as far as Leominster: but either from want of skill in the architect, or from the obstacles before stated, a high flood, which followed soon afterwards, so materially injured the locks and all that had been done, that no attempts to repair or renew the works have been subsequently made. The several kinds of river fish found in the Wye are also taken in the Lug; but, although the channel of each is particularly deep where they join, the sea-fish common to the Wye are rarely met with in the Lug. This is perhaps to be attributed to a greater degree of cold and hardness in the water of the latter.

The Munnow rises on the east or Herefordshire side of the Hattrel mountains, and is joined near Longtown in the hundred of Ewyas Lacy, by the Escle and Olchon, which have their sources not far from that of the Munnow. Watering a sequestered and pleasant vale in a direction nearly from north to south, it receives at Alterynnis (formerly the seat of the Cecil family), a brook anciently termed the Bothenay, according to Dugdale, but now styled the Hothney, which springs above the once-celebrated abbey of Llanthony, and still flows by its venerable remains. Leaving Alterynnis, the Munnow becomes the boundary between this county and that of Monmouth, receiving near Pontilas the united streams of the Dore and the Worme; the former of which rises at Dorston (Dore-town) in the hundred of Webtree, and intersects a rich and beautiful valley; the latter rises near Alansmoor in the same hundred. With these aids the Munnow becomes a considerable river, and continues to be the provincial boundary, until it passes Llanrothal, in Wormelow hundred, when it leaves Herefordshire, and flowing by Monmouth, is received by the Wye immediately below the town.

Trout, gudgeons, eels, and cray-fish, are taken in the Munnow.

The Arrow has its source in Radnorshire, and entering this county near Kington, joins the Lug a few miles below Leominster; the name is said to be derived from the swiftness of its current. Its fish are trout, grayling, and cray-fish.

The Frome rises near Wolfrelow, in the hundred of Broxash, and being joined near Stretton-Grandison, by the Loden from Grendon Bishop, Cowarne, &c is received by the Lug near Mordiford. It is liable to frequent and sudden floods. Trout are its principal fish.

The Teme, or Team, enters Herefordshire from the north-west near Bramoton Bryan, and passes alternately through parts of this county and Shropshire. Near Tenbury (Temebury) it makes a more considerable circuit into Worcestershire, and returning to Whitbourn, below the town of Bromyard and receiving a small brook from Sapey, it finally quits Herefordshire immediately after, and discharges itself into the Severn between Malvernchase and Woobury hill, in the county of Worcester. Pearls have occasionally been found in the muscle-shell of the Teme; and a small fish resembling a last-spring, but weighing about one-third of a pound, and consequently much larger than the last-spring, frequents this river.

The Leadon, or Leddon, rises above Bosbury, in Radiow hundred, gives name to the town of Ledbury, which it passes, and entering Gloucestershire, becomes tributary, to the Severn soon after. It is thus curiously personified and described by Drayton in the seventh song of his Polyolbion: “Ledon, which her way doth through the desart make,

Though near to Dene ally’d, determined to forsake Her course, and her clear lims among the bushes hide, Lest by Sylvans, (should she chance to be espide) She might unmaiden’d go unto the soveraign flood! So many were the rapes done on the watery brood, That Sabrine to her sire great Neptune forc’d to sue, The ryots to represse of this outrageous crue.“

A variety of inferior brooks come in aid of the rivers and streams noticed above, many of which contribute to the public benefit by turning mills for grinding corn, and some are useful in the way of irrigation. The Garran and the Gamar abound with cray-fish.

Some springs on the Herefordshire side of Malvern hills, were formerly deemed medicinal, and obtained the flattering name of holy wells. Several petrifying springs are still met with in those hilly parts that contain limestone, near Moccas, Fownhope, Llanrothal, and Wormesley. A small well, near Richard’s Castle, in Wolphey hundred, discharges small bones when disturbed, resembling the back-bones of the frog.

ROADS

These were once proverbially bad, and are still, A modern writer has, notwithstanding, observed, that Herefordshire abounds with residences of principal families, in spite of its roads. Much, however, has been done within the last thirty years. Where coarse lime-stone, properly broken, is not to be had, the roads suffer from the want of it; the north side of Herefordshire has the worst public roads; the private are universally bad, excepting those situated on sandy or gravelly soils.

RAIL ROADS

A rail-road from Brecon by the way to Kington has been completed, and opened a communication highly advantageous to the county through which it passes, giving a facility for the conveyance of coal, iron, lime, and other articles, and the traffic is considerable.. A rail road has also been projected from the neighbourhood of Abergavenny to Hereford, and is completed as far as Pontrilas, for the conveyance of coals.

BRIDGES

To the impetuosity of the Wye is to be ascribed the want of a sufficient number of bridges, to render the communication safe and easy between different parts of the county. In the whole extent of the Wye, through Herefordshire, there was only one bridge, (at Hereford) till the year 1597; an act of parliament was then obtained for erecting a second at Wilton; and since that time, two more have been added, the one at Bredwardine, by an act passed in 1762; and the other at Whitney, by an act passed in 1780. That at Bredwardine, which is built of brick, after sustaining some damage by the great flood of 1795, has continued to resist the impetuosity of the river; but that of Whitney has already been twice destroyed, and was again renewed on stone piers in the year 1802.

RENT AND SIZE OF FARMS

Without large farms, improvements in agriculture and breeding would be cramped, if not suppressed, and without small ones, Mr. Duneomb has candidly confessed, no persons but those of property could embark in agricultural pursuits; and the lusty peasantry, which forms. so material a part of our national strength, would lose the stimulus and reward of industry. Of late years, the practice of consolidating several estates into one, has much reduced the number of small farms, and has left very few opportunities by which an industrious couple can devote their 50l. or 100l. to stock a number of acres proportioned to their capital, and thus bring up a family with some degree of comfort, and some idea of independence. This circumstance being known, it operates as a check upon matrimony, tends to licentiousness of manners, and discourages population. At a former period, the parish of Holmer comprised ten farms; this number was afterwards reduced to five. When there were ten farms, the several small farmers lived respectably, maintained their families decently, and inured them to habits of industry, and they reared nearly double the stock that was afterwards produced. It may be that they supplied the markets with so much less corn, as the increased demand of their family required, but they made amends in an increased supply of veal, lamb, poultry, and butter, which brought these articles into general and ready use, and kept the prices of others within proper limits.

The temptations to proprietors to consolidate farms are numerous and weighty; the saving in repairs; the facility in collecting rents, and the responsibility of tenants, are all admitted; but every rank in society ought to make some sacrifices in favour of the public. Many instances of this kind have recently taken place in the lowering of rents by several opulent individuals, whose examples, it is hoped, will not be lost upon others, especially the rich clergy, and corporate bodies.

The best arable lands have been rented at an average of twenty shillings an acre, the best meadow, at forty shillings; in the vicinity of towns, some meadows have been let at four pounds an acre. The poorer arable may be rated at ten shillings, or less, and meadows in distant situations, at eighteen or twenty. Payments are invariably made in money: but waggons are lent out for a few days in the year to the landlords, to carry coal.

The greatest estates in the county belong to the Governors of Guy’s Hospital, in Southwark, the Duke of Norfolk, the Earl of Essex, Sir George Cornwall, bart. R. P. Knight, esq. S. Davies, esq. &c. &rc.

These are divided into farms, averaging from two to four hundred acres each, and are let to tenants at rents varying with the quality of the soil, proportion of meadow, &c. Unfortunately, only a few of the large estates are occupied by their proprietors.

TITHES

These are in very few instances collected in kind. The average composition in lieu of them, varies from three shillings and sixpence, to four shillings in the pound, paid for rent. They are generally paid with reluctance, and considered by the occupiers and proprietors of land, as serious obstacles to agricultural improvement. The effects of tithes, in a religious view, are obvious: they prevent habits of intercourse between the clergyman and his parishioners, and destroy the purpose of his labours. To this system may also be owing, the superior influence of dissenters over their flocks, compared with that of the ministers of the church.

TENURES AND LEASES

In Irchenfield, which is a considerable part of the hundred of Wormelow, the tenure of gavel kind has prevailed from the remotest periods to the present time. Thus, in cases of persons dying intestate, the law of primogeniture has no effect, and lands descend, not to the eldest, youngest, or any one son only, but in equal divisions to all the sons together. But the privilege and security of disposing of property by will, are now so fully understood and experienced, that the provisions of this peculiar tenure are seldom resorted to. It is the same in the manor of Hampton Bishop, with respect to the tenure of Borough English, by which the youngest son succeeds to the burgage, tenement, &c. on the death of his father, to the exclusion of his eldest and other brothers. This tenure, like that of gavel kind, is seldom acted upon. Copyhold property is not so common in this as in many other districts. The continual expenses, the vexatious litigations to which it gives rise, and the distress occasioned by it to families, make it an object much to be wished, that a law should be made, to enable the landlord to purchase the interest of the tenant, or the tenant obtain that of the lord, by a fair and known compensation. Leasehold estates are more common, but are liable to many of the objections against copyhold property The principal lessors are the Bishop, the Dean, the Chapter, Prebendaries, and other members of the Cathedral Church, the Corporation of Hereford, and other towns, the College of Vicars Choral, &c. Nearly two-thirds of the whole county are supposed to be freehold.

Leases of old dates, were generally binding for twenty-one years; but from the extraordinary advances in the price of grain, landed proprietors have granted them more frequently in three terms of seven years each, determinable at either of those periods, by landlord or tenant. The provisions in the clauses of Herefordshire leases, have few peculiarities. Those granted by R. C. Hopton, esq. of Canon-Frome, after binding the tenant to keep the premises in repair, further stipulate that the landlord, with proper persons, shall have power, once in every year, to survey the state of the buildings, and make a report to the tenant, of what appears necessary to be done on the premises.

FARM-HOUSES AND COTTAGES

The old farm-houses of Herefordshire, as well as other counties, are inconvenient, and the offices ill adapted to the purposes for which they were designed. Water and shelter appear to have been principally consulted, in selecting a spot for building; these are confessedly objects of no trifling importance, but there are other objects also, which require and deserve attention In the new ones (of which there are many) the defects of the old ones are generally supplied, to the great advantage and comfort of the farmer. The Governors of Guy’s Hospital are, in this respect, particularly attentive to the in terest and convenience of the tenants. Under the management of James Woodhouse, esq., several of the old houses have been taken down, and others substituted on better sites, and on the most approved plans. When practicable, a gentle declivity towards the south, which implies some eminence, is generally preferred: the building is adapted to the size of the farm to be occupied with it; the walls are constructed with stone, and the covering is of slate.

Particular care is taken that every part of the fold, or yard, shall be distinctly seen from the windows of the room; whether kitchen or parlour, which is most frequently inhabited by the tenant and his family; as much also of the land as possible, is within sight from that or other windows.

The out buildings form three sides of a square, the fourth of which is occupied by the house and garden wall: the former comprise barns, stables, cow-houses, feeding-stalls, pigsties, cider-mill, and warehouse for the liquor.

Houses and buildings of all kinds are usually put into good repair by the proprietor, at the commencement of a lease, and the tenant engages to preserve them in good condition afterwards; having sometimes the advantage of unconverted timber from the estate when necessary.

COTTAGES

These are generally of very humble construction: many have been built on waste ground by their proprietors, whose means were far from adequate to the attainment of comfort and convenience. But ten cottages, upon a much improved plan, were built by the parish of Holmer, some years since, for the accommodation of as many families, and a small garden annexed to each. The introduction of strawberries into the cottagers’ gardens, are a valuable addition, combining both pleasure and profit. Part of the waste lands on Aconbury and Shucknell hills, have been particularly applied to these purposes with great success and little trouble.

The red Carolina, or Bath scarlet, are generally preferred, and their fruit sold readily in July, at ten pence per full quart, in the Hereford market.

CATTLE

Those of Herefordshire have long been esteemed superior to most, if not all, the breeds in the island. The nearest to them in general appearance, are those of Devonshire and Sussex. Large size, an athletic form, and unusual neatness, characterize the genuine sort; the prevailing colour is a reddish brown, with white faces. The shew of oxen at Michaelmas fair, in Hereford, cannot be exceeded by any annual collection in England.

SHEEP

The provincial breed of sheep is termed the Ryeland, from a district in the vicinity of Ross. They are small, white faced, and without horns, the ewes weighing from nine to twelve or fourteen pounds the quarter; the wethers from twelve to sixteen or eighteen pounds. In symmetry of shape, and in flavour, they are superior to most flocks in England: in quality of their wool, they are wholly unrivalled.

Leominster has usually been celebrated as famous for its wool; but possibly it might have been the place of its sale, rather than its growth. However, Philips, the poet writes,

“Can the fleece

Bœtic, or finest Tarentine compare,

With Lempster’s silken wool?“

Camden styles it “Lempster’s ore,” and Drayton asks “Where lives the man so dull, on Britain’s farthest shore,

To whom did never sound the name of Lempster ore?

That with the silk worm’s web, for smallness doth compare?”

HOGS

No one breed of hogs, or pigs, as they are provincially termed, are peculiar to Herefordshire,

ENCLOSURES

New ones here are ditched with posts and rails, on the banks; but quickset, or hawthorn plants, have been more in use since the Agricultural Society of the province has offered premiums for the “greatest quantity of hawthorn quick, properly planted for fencing an estate, or fairly sold by a nursery-man for that purpose.” Oak timber is uniyersally used in the construction of gates.

IMPLEMENTS

Those used for husbandry in this county have few peculiarities. Waggons, intended for turnpike roads, have usually wheels six inches in breadth, carry about three tons and a half in weight, and are drawn by six horses abreast. Carts are also drawn on six-inch wheels, for many purposes, and have gradually superseded the use of the narrow-wheeled carts. The plough very generally resorted to, is the light Lammas, without a wheel; it is drawn by three or four horses, according to the condition of the soil, and was preceded by a long awkward and heavy implement, now entirely out of fashion. The plough now used, is well adapted to the requisite uses in sowing wheat, &c. Cars, that sometimes have a pair of wheels, and sometimes none, are in general use for the common business of the farm.

APPLES, CIDER, &C

Herefordshire affords plantations of fruit-trees in every aspect, and on soil of every quality, and under every culture; but “the soil best adapted to most kinds of apples (says Mr. Duncomb) is a deep and rich loam, when under the culture of the plough; on this the trees grow with the greatest luxuriance, and produce the richest fruit. Some trees, however, the stire and golden pippin in particular, form exceptions to this general rule, and flourish most in a hot and shallow soil, upon a lime or sand-stone. The best sorts of pear-trees also prefer the rich loam; but inferior kinds will even flourish where the soil will scarcely produce herbage.

“The apple trees are divided into Old and New sorts; each class comprises what is called Kernel fruits; that is, the fruit growing on its own native roots, a distinction from those produced by the operation of grafting. The old sorts are the more valuable, and those which have been long introduced; as the Stire, Golden-pippen, Hagloe Crab, several varieties of the Harvey, the Brandy Apple, Redstreak, Woodcock, Moyle, Gennet moyle, Red, White, and Yellow Musks, Pauson, Fox-whelp, loan and old Pearmains, Dymock-red, Ten-commandments, &c. Some of these names are descriptive of the fruit; and others are derived from the places where they have been found in abundance. The modern varieties derive their appellations from such capricious and various causes, that a correct list cannot be composed: in some instances, the fruit bears a different name even in the same parish. In selecting fruits for cultivation, respect should be paid both to the soil and situation of the intended orchard: where both are favourable, no restraint is necessary; but in cold situations, and unkind soils, the most early fruits are obviously those which may be expected to acquire maturity.

The time for gathering the apples is generally about the middle of October; but this varies according to the season and sort of the fruit. The prevailing practice in gathering is to beat the trees with long slender poles, called polting lugs, and as the apples fall, women and children are employed to collect them into baskets; this mode of gathering, is, however, very defective, as both ripe and unripe fruits are thus intermixed, which is detrimental to the production of good cider. In some orchards, therefore, two gatherings arc made; the first when the apples begin to fall spontaneously, which is a sure criterion of the ripeness; and again when those that were left green become sufficiently mature.

The principal markets for the fruit liquors of Herefordshire,. are those of London and Bristol, from whence great quantities are sent to Ireland, to the East and West Indies, and to other foreign markets, in bottles. The price of the common cider is generally fixed by a meeting of the dealers at Hereford fair, on the 20th of October annually, and on the average of years varies from 1l. 5s. to two guineas per hogshead, but the value of the stire cider, even at the press, is from 5l. to 15l. per hogshead.

In a plentiful year the produce of the fruit is almost beyond conception, the trees being then loaded even to excess, and frequently break under the weight of the apples; at these times, indeed, the branches are generally obliged to be supported on props, or forked poles. This kind of excessive fruitage, however, seldom occurs more than once in four years; the year immediately succeeding being mostly unproductive. In some of these years of abundance, 20 hogsheads of cider have been made from the produce of a single acre of orchard ground.

The particular era when the plantations of Herefordshire acquired the peculiar eminence which they yet retain, was during the reign of Charles I. when by the spirited exertions of Lord Scudamore, and other gentlemen of the county, Herefordshire “became, in a manner, one entire orchard.“

MINERALS

Iron ore was discovered in the sandy district of Wormelow hundred, in the time of the Romans, and many of the hard blomares used by them have been met with on Peterstow Common, and also considerable quantities of ore imperfectly smelted. Camden remarks, that the town of Ross was famous for smiths in his time. Of late years, however, no iron has been manufactured in this county, and the very extensive works in the Forest of Dean, have now been stopped a considerable time. Small particles of lead ore have occasionally been found in the lime-rocks situated on the northwest parts of the county. Red and yellow ochres have also been found, with fullers’ earth and tobacco-pipe clay.

POPULATION

According to the returns of 1821, Herefordshire contains 2061 inhabited houses, occupied by 21,000 families; males 51,552; females 61,591; total 103,243. The increase of population in the city of Hereford is ascribed to vaccine inoculation, to the peace, and the convenience of a market.

The following are the peculiar ones used in this county. A pound of fresh butter, eighteen ounces; a stone, twelve pounds; a customary acre, two-thirds of a statute acre; a hop acre, that space which contains a thousand plants, or about half a statute acre; a lug, forty-nine yards square of coppice wood; a wood acre, three-eighths larger than a statute, or as 8 to 5; a day moth, about a statute acre of meadow or grass land, the quantity usually mown by one man in a day; a perch of fencing, seven yards; a perch of walling, sixteen feet and a half; a perch of land, five yards and a half, (as statute;) a bushel of grain, ten gallons; a bushel of malt, eight gallons and a half.

TITLES CONFERRED BY THE COUNTY

Hereford is a Bishop’s See, and gives the title of Viscount to the Devereux family—Leominster gives that of Baron to the Fermors—Ross the same to the Herberts: Wilton Castle, that of Earl, Viscount, and Baron, to the Egertons.

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS

Herefordshire is divided into eleven hundreds Wigmore, Woolphz, Huntingdon, Stretford, Broxash, Gremworth, Euras Lacy, Webtree, Ludlow, Wormelow, and Greytree; these are subdivided into 221 parishes, containing one city, (Hereford) two borough towns, Leominster and Weoblz, and five other market towns. It is included in the Oxford circuit, in the province of Canterbury, and diocese of Hereford.

The Bishopric of Hereford contains the greatest part of Salop, four parishes in the county of Monmouth, six churches and chapels in Montgomeryshire, eight in the county of Radnor, twenty-one in that of Worcester, and the whole county of Hereford, with the exception of eleven parishes, making in all, 379 churches and chapels, 166 of which are impropriate.

THE QUARTER SESSIONS

These are held at the New County Hall, at Hereford, where the assizes for the county courts are holden.