Rochester in the time of the Britons, was called Dubrys, or Dwrbrif. By giving it a Latin termination, the Romans called it Durobrivis, and the Saxons denominated it Hrofcaster. The word Ceaster is evidently derived from castrum, a castle; and, when thus used, it generally implies the Romans having had upon the spot a military station. Hrof is thought to be the name of a Saxon, who was a person of consequence in that quarter. Leland spells the name of this town Rocestre. There is sufficient ground to conclude that the Romans pursued this course in their journey from the seacoast to London. As there is no evidence of there having been a bridge at Rochester for many centuries after the Romans retired from Britain, it is most probable that a ferry was their mode of conveyance. Dr. Thorpe, an eminent physician and antiquary, who resided many years in this town, was inclined to believe that the first bridge between Rochester and Stroud was erected in the reign of Edgar the Peaceable; but the reasons on which he founded his opinion are not known. It is certain, however, that there was a bridge before the Conquest; and that divers tracts of land were subjected to its support.

It appears from ancient MSS that this early bridge was of wood, and placed in the line of the principal streets of Rochester and Stroud. From the depth of the water, its constant rapidity, the occasional roughness of the tides, and the shocks of large bodies of ice, the bridge wanted such frequent and heavy repairs, that the supporting of it became a great burden to the owners of the contributory lands. In the early part of the 14th century, this structure was represented as being "dangerous for passengers, and nearly destroyed." Under these circumstances, with a laudable spirit of compassion and generosity, the great warriors, Sir Robert Knolles, and Sir John de Cobham, more known by the title of Lord Cobham, built, at their joint expense, the present bridge of stone. In the 22nd year of King Richard II. a patent was obtained, and afterwards Confirmed by parliament, in the ninth of Henry V. for constituting the proprietors a body corporate, under the title of "wardens and commonalty;" and a licence was granted, enabling them to receive and hold, in mortmain, lands, and tenements, to the value of 200l. a year. The first and greatest benefactor was Sir John Cobham, and his gift was followed with such considerable donations, that the estates usually termed "proper" have been long adequate to the repairs of the bridge, without levying an assessment upon the contributory lands. The governing members of the corporation are two wardens and twelve assistants; and, in pursuance of the directions in several acts of parliament, the practice is, on Friday in the week after Easter, to elect in the bridge-chamber wardens and assistants, for the year ensuing, to commence from the Monday in Whitsun-week. Four of the assistants are appointed auditors of the accounts of the wardens of the preceding year, and Thursday in Whitsun-week is the day fixed for their being settled.

The length of the bridge is 560 feet. It has a stone parapet on each side, strongly coped, and surmounted with a railing of iron, and has now eleven arches, supported by strong and substantial piers, which are well secured on each side with sterlings. The river has a considerable fall through these arches.

Under the good management of the wardens, for several years past, the estates proper have been duly attended to, and the increased revenue well applied. The transit of carriages, before and after passing the bridge, is still inconvenient, though the entrances on both sides were much improved some years since, and particularly the street at Rochester was widened by the removal of some houses. The inhabitants have it in contemplation to erect a new bridge over the Medway, at a short distance from the present fabric.

The Bridge-Chamber, or Record-Roomy which stands opposite to the east end of the bridge, is a neat building of Portland stone, with a portico beneath, occupying the site of the western porch of a chapel, or chantry, that was founded by the potent Baron, John de Cobham, at the time of the building of the bridge. He designed it principally for the use of travellers, and appointed three chaplains to officiate in it, who were to have a salary of six pounds each yearly, payable from the revenues of the bridge estates, and were to pray for the souls of the founder and his lady; of Sir Robert Knolles and his lady; the other benefactors to the bridge; and of all "faithful people deceased." The venerable ruins of the Castle present an object that must attract the notice of every traveller. The situation of this structure was extremely favourable for defence: standing at the southwest angle of the city, on an eminence rising abruptly from the Medway, that river preserved it from any attack on the west; whilst its south, east, and north sides were environed by a broad and deep ditch. The outward walls, which formed a parallelogram of above 300 feet in length, were strengthened by several square and round towers; but these, with the walls themselves, are now verging to a state of ruin. At the southeast angle of the area stands the keep, or master tower, of which there are considerable remains.

After the Romans became conquerors of our island, it is evident they had a station at Rochester; and the height of the ground upon which the castle stands, and its situation with respect to the Medway, and to the ancient road leading over the river, denote this hill to have been the most likely spot for their fortress. The great variety of Roman coins dug up within the district, corroborates the idea. There being few passages in early history in which this castle is expressly mentioned, it is in vain to search for vestiges of their buildings, or to attempt to ascertain what kind of military works there might be here in the time of the Saxons. When the Danes besieged Rochester, in the year 885, there must have been a citadel of importance, the inhabitants being enabled to resist their attacks, till they were relieved by Alfred. William the Conqueror is supposed by some to have erected a new castle; by others it is thought that he only enlarged what belonged to the Saxons. It could not have been a very strong hold, because when in possession of Odo, bishop of Bayeux, and his associates, who had revolted in the beginning of the reign of William Rufus, it was soon reduced; and it is very probable that the king, not finding it to be so defensive a post as his father had imagined it to be, resolved upon constructing an entirely new edifice. Gundulph, bishop of Rochester, who had been employed by William to superintend the building of the White Tower at London, agreed, after some hesitation, to become the architect. That the keep, or great tower, was erected by this celebrated prelate, is little doubted, and hitherto it has always been called after his name.

The skill and ingenuity exercised in the construction of this fabric, are particularly observable in the various contrivances that secured the entrance. There was a passage through a smaller tower into the keep, after ascending a flight of steps that were carried partly round two of the fronts of the castle, and defended on the first landing place by a strong arch, under which hung a massy gate and a drawbridge. The entrance into the vestibule of the small tower had also a strong gate and portcullis; and, at the portal of the great tower, there were another gate and portcullis. The great tower is seventy feet square at the base, and the walls in general are about twelve feet thick. The apartments of the keep are separated by a wall from the bottom to the top. In this partition wall there are arches, by which a communication was opened from one room to the other. There is a well in the centre of the wall, by which every floor was supplied with water; its diameter is two feet and nine inches. On the north side of the keep is a descent by steps into a vault under the entrance tower, which was used for a prison. In the northeast angle there is a winding staircase, which ascends from the bottom to the top of the tower; the ascent is not difficult, though the steps are much destroyed. In the southeast angle is another staircase, winding to the top of the tower, having also communication with every room. There were no windows on the ground floor, and very few loop holes, and those exceedingly small. Their structure and situation were such, that a firebrand cast in could do little mischief, because when it dropped it must fall directly under the arch, through which each loop hole was approached from within; nor could an arrow strike any one, except a person who might accidentally be at the loophole. The apartments of state were on the second floor; these rooms were 28 feet high, and separated by cylindrical columns, which support four round arches, richly ornamented with zigzag mouldings. Ascending to the next floor, about midway, there is a narrow arched passage, or gallery, in the main wall, quite round the tower; and here are the remains of an arch, which appears to indicate the former existence of a chapel. The whole structure rises to the height of 104 feet, having at the top a battlement five feet high, with embrasures. After the introduction of artillery, this was no longer a defensible fortress, and the apartments being dark and dreary, it was equally unfit for a dignified modern residence. It was, however, preserved in a habitable condition until the reign of James I., since which time it has been sinking in unregarded decay.

In the year 1610 King James I. granted this castle, with all the services and emoluments appertaining to it, to Sir Anthony Weldon, of Swanscombe; and Walker Weldon, a descendant, sold the timber-work belonging to the castle to a per son who afterwards used a part of it in building a brewhouse on the common. The rest of the materials were offered to a paviour, who finding, upon trial, that the hardness of the cement would render the expense of cleaning and separating them to be more than their value, thought fit to decline the purchase. This attempt was made on the eastern side, near the postern leading to Bully-hill, where a large chasm shews the effects of it. The area of the castle-district is said to be about three hundred feet square; but, whatever buildings it may have enclosed, with the exception of the keep, they have been long since destroyed.

Several towers were built in the angles and sides of the castle walls. There appears, in particular, to have been a large one at the north angle, that was a great security to the bridge; near this tower is a long opening in the wall from the bottom to the top, and it is supposed to have been used for the secret conveyance of necessaries from the river into the castle. In the southeast angle of the walls there was another tower, and, from the number of loopholes, it seems to have been designed to annoy an enemy who had succeeded in an attack upon the south gate of the city. At a little distance from this tower are steps of descent to Bully, or Boley-hill; and while the castle was in force, there possibly might be here a postern gate to this part of the outworks.

From the many urns and lachrymatories found on Boley-hill, there is no doubt but it was a burying place of the Romans, when stationed at Rochester. It is supposed, and with great probability, by several historians, that the mound on the south side might be cast up by the Danes, when they besieged the city in 885.

In the year 1461, King Edward IV. granted to the mayor and citizens a view of frank-pledge in the city, and also the privilege of holding a court in a place called the Boley, within the suburbs of the city. This is a court-leet, still kept separate from that holden in the Guildhall. The inhabitants of this district are to appear before the recorder of the city as steward to the court, which is held on the Monday after St. Michael, and an officer is then appointed, called the baron of the Bully. The form of admission is by the delivery of a staff, no oath of office being required. The court is kept under an elm tree at the east end of the hill, and the householders of the several tenements within its limits are generally appointed in succession to this office., The south gate of the city was at the east corner of the Bailey; the arch of it was taken down in the year 1770. Through this gate was the high road to Maidstone, up a street called St. Margaret's, in which, on the left hand, is an ancient stone wall, which bounded the grange-yard of the priory to the west; part of it is the wall of the archdeacon's garden, at the end of which is a lane leading into the Maidstone road, The south wail of this garden terminates at a dilapidated wall, that enclosed the vineyard of the monastery, and the field retains the name of the Vines. The poorhouse of this parish was erected in the year 1724, towards the building of which Sir Thomas Colby and Sir J. Jennings gave two hundred pounds. St. Margaret's church is situated at the end of the street; it consists of a nave and two chancels, the latter being of a more modern construction than the body of the church.

The precincts of the priory are entered through the gateway, which was anciently styled the Prior's Gate.

Adjoining the gate is the Royal Grammar-school, founded by Henry VIII. for the education of 20 boys, called king's scholars. It is endowed with four exhibitions to the Universities, to be paid by the church to four scholars; which exhibitions of 5l. per year each they enjoy till they have taken the degrees of A.M., if they continue members of the universities, and have no fellowship. An upper and under master are appointed for the instruction of youth in this school. Six houses in the row opposite are inhabited by the minor canons of this cathedral; the seventh at the cast end belougs to the organist. At a little distance to the left is the site of the ancient palace belonging to the bishop of this see. Bishop Fisher appears to be the last who resided here. The present buildings were erected about the middle of the 17th century, and are by the bishop leased out to tenants. The bishop's court for the trial of civil causes," and a prison, were in the west quarter of the palace precincts. No debtors have been confined here for upwards of fifty years, the practice of the court not being sufficient to defray the expenses of supporting the jurisdiction. Bishop Pearce, in the year 1760, erected a register's office, in what used to be the gaoler's garden. At a very short distance from Minor Canon Row, on the right side is a small embattled tower, through which was the entrance into the cloister of the priory. Contiguous to the cloister were the refectory and dormitory, and other offices, which were taken down at the dissolution of this religious house. A part of the wall of the cloister is still standing, and, together with the remains of the Chapter-house, exhibits a beautiful series of Norman arches and ornaments, though now greatly mutilated.

The foundation of the see of Rochester is ascribed to Ethelbert, King of Kent; who was persuaded to perform this pious and judicious action by Augustine, the Apostle of Britain, and the first Archbishop of Canterbury. The same king built here a Cathedral church, and conferred the episcopal dignity on Justus, a prelate of eminent talents and moral worth. The edifice erected by this munificent monarch was, however, not of long duration; for a church entirely new was erected by Gundulph, promoted to this diocese in 1077, and who continued in it till his death, which happened in March 1107. It is doubtful whether ho had completed the buildings at the time of his decease, but there are several parts of the present fabric that were unquestionably of his construction; the beautiful west door has been attributed to him, and the style of its sculpture shews it could not be the work of a much later period. It has a semicircular arch, agreeable to the early Norman architecture, with several members, unfortunately much mutilated, containing a great variety of ornaments. Beneath the crown is the figure of our Saviour, sitting on a throne, with a book open in his left hand, which rests upon his knee, the right hand being raised in the attitude of blessing; but the hand is broken off, as is likewise the head, though the nimbus or glory is discernible. On each side is an angel, together with the symbols of the Evangelists. On the north side of the door is the statue of King Henry I. and on the south that of Matilda his queen. Henry was present at the dedication of this cathedral by Archbishop Corboyl, on May 11, 1130, and was afterwards a benefactor to the neighbouring priory; Bishop Gundulph had been confessor to the queen. In a niche of the west front of the northwest tower of the nave, is a very ancient episcopal figure, standing upon a shrine, designed as it is supposed, for Gundulph. In 1763, the old tower was taken down; the statue was an ornament of that tower, but placed in the north side of it, facing the gate of entrance from the city into the precincts. Tho cathedral is entered by a descent of several steps, and its dimensions are as follow: from the west door to the steps leading up to the choir one hundred and fifty feet, and from thence to the east wall of the chancel one hundred and fifty six feet; total three hundred and six feet. The east transept is in length, from north to south, ninety feet.

In the original plan of Gundulph's church, there was a tower over the steps leading up to the choir. On this was afterwards raised a low octagonal spire, which, being in danger of falling, was rebuilt under the direction of Mr. Sloane, architect to the Dean and Chapter, in the year 1749. There are six bells in the tower, and its height is one hundred and fifty-six feet.

The choir was made with the offerings at the tomb of William, a charitable Scotch baker, who was by the device of some crafty monk converted into a martyr and a saint; because whilst ravelling towards the Holy Land, he was unfortunately robbed and murdered by his servant near Rochester. From the entrance of the choir to the eastern extremity, the style of the building has a uniform character, and presents a curious specimen of the early English, or Pointed mode of architecture. In the years 1742 and 1743, very considerable alterations and improvements were made in the choir, under the direction of Mr. Sloane; new pews were then erected, the partition walls wainscotted, and the pavement laid with Bremen and Portland stone, beautifully disposed. The choir was also new furnished, and the episcopal throne erected. The altarpiece, which is made of Norway oak, is plain and neat. Fifty pounds were given towards ornamenting this part of the church by Dr. Herring, archbishop of Canterbury, who was many years dean of this cathedral. There was then only a panel of wainscot in the middle, in which was fixed a large piece of rich velvet in a frame elegantly carved and gilt. This was removed some years ago, and the altarpiece is now decorated with a picture of the Angels appearing to the Shepherds, by Mr. West. There are three elegant stone seats adjoining to the south wall of the chancel. Stalls like these are still subsisting in the chancels of many parochial, as well as cathedral and collegiate churches; and they were doubtless for the convenience of ecclesiastics of high rank, and would be used by the officiating clergy in the intervals during the celebration of mass. In the front of the stalls under review are three shields of arms: on the first, or eastern, stall are the arms of the see of Rochester; the centre shield bears the arms of Christ church, Canterbury; and it is supposed that the third shield is emblazoned with the arms of the prior and convent of St. Andrew, who was the tutelar saint of Rochester cathedral.

At the east end of the cathedral are numerous ancient monuments, amongst which the following require notice. In a recess of the north wall is a stone chest, with a figure in pontifical robes, assigned to Bishop Laurence de St. Martin, who died in 1274. A contiguous shrine-like monument is supposed to be that of Gilbert de Glanville, who died in 1214. The tomb nearest the stalls is appropriated to Bishop Thomas de Inglethorp, who died May 12, 1291 : though it is a matter of doubt whether he might not be deposited in a more eastern tomb. At the foot of the steps leading to the communion table, there are two large slabs, each of which had formerly brasses representing the figure of a bishop under a rich canopy : there is a similar gravestone near the great west door, and two more in the south transept of the nave. There is a chapel called after St. Edmund, behind the south wall of the choir, though the altar erected in honour of him was fixed in the undercroft.

There was a common passage through the chapel, for the monks, from the north cloister into the church, and the arch of the door of communication is still discernible, both in the chapel and: an adjoining garden. In the partition wall of the choir there is a stone chest, which has upon it a figure of Purbeck marble, pontifically habited, lying under a canopy, curiously ornamented, and which terminates pyramidically. The head is entirely gone, and in its place is a flat stone. In the left hand is part of a crosier; only the fore finger of the right hand is remaining, which is extended to the left, holding to all appearance a book. It is supposed to be the tomb of Bishop Bradfield, who died April 23rd, 1283. It is thought that originally there was a south aisle of the same width with that on the north side of the choir, and that the wall of it might be continued to the east transept. Traces of such a wall appear by the steps into the undercroft, and in what is now the minor canons' vestry.

Against the south wall in this transept there, is a stone chest, raised about a foot above the pavement; another of the same size was removed some years ago. They had antique crosses upon them, and appeared to have been forced open it has been said that the persons who, about the year 1645, defaced and pillaged the tombs in this church, found in one of these coffins a crucifix and a ring.

In the south transept there is a richly ornamented door-case; it is the entrance into the present chapter-house, which is used for a library, but it was formerly the grand door of communication between the church and the chapter-house of the priory, in all solemn processions. The moulding of the arch of entrance into the north cloister is still to be seen. It is supposed to have been executed about the fourteenth century. This elegant piece of sculpture has been much defaced, and it has been injudiciously covered with whitewash, which quite disguises its beauties. The royal figures on each side, supported by bustos, like those on the sides of the great west door, are said to be Henry I, and Matilda his queen; the scroll in the king's right hand having a reference to his new grants, and to his acts of confirmation of former rights and privileges; and the church in his left, to his being present at the dedication of the cathedral. The queen is holding a book or scroll in her hand. Above, on each side, are two figures seated in episcopal habits, supposed to represent Gundulph, Ernulph, Laurence de St. Martin, and Hamo de Hethe.

The northeast transept was formerly separated from the choir by a screen of wood, with Gothic arches. The northern part of this transept used to be visited by devotees without number, before the Reformation, because St. William, from whom it derived its appellation, was enshrined in it. The tomb ascribed to him, and usually called his shrine, consists of a large coffin of Petworth marble, and adjoins to the north wall, near to a door that leads up to an apartment over the east end, called the Treasury. The middle window, at the shrine of St. William, was given by Hubert de Burg, justiciary of England in the reign of Henry III. The window thus described, is said not to be either of the central windows now extant, but a window that was under them. The stone frame of it may be seen in the wall without the church. To the west of the shrine there is a monument to the memory of Waiter de Merton, founder of the college at Oxford which bears his name. He died October 27, 1277, being drowned in passing a river, of the depth of which he was unfortunately not aware. He is the earliest prelate of the see of Rochester whose place of burial can be accurately ascertained by his tomb. The original monument was made at Limoges, in France, where the art of enamelling chiefly flourished, and that was anciently a common mode of ornamenting sumptuous tombs. The expense of constructing it, and the carriage from Limoges to Rochester, was 67l. 14s. 6d. This tomb was almost entirely destroyed at the Reformation, and a new and elegant monument erected in 1598, at the expense of the Master and fellows of Merton College. It was repaired in 1662, and cleaned and beautified in 1772, by the same learned body. From this prelate the chapel has acquired the appellation of Merton Chapel. Opposite to it is a monument in memory of Bishop Lowe, who died September 30, 1467. It is still in good preservation, and is the oldest monument in the church with a legible inscription. At the west end, within a shield held up by an angel, are the family arms of the bishop impaled with the arms of the see of Rochester, which are, however, placed on the sinister side. At the east end of this chapel, on the north side, is a beautiful tomb of white and black marble, in memory of Bishop Warner, who died in 1666, in the 86th year of his age, and was the last prelate of the see interred in this cathedral. His munificent endowment of Bromley College, for the support of twenty widow's of clergymen, is the most honourable memorial entailed on the name of this prelate.

From this chapel is a descent into the north aisle by several steps, which are much worn; a proof of the great resort there formerly was to the shrine of St. William. Against the wall of the choir is an altar tomb, placed under a low canopied arch; above the tomb is a mutilated angel, which holds a scroll.. It has been assigned to Bishop Haymo de Hethe, who died in 1352. When the north transept of the nave was building, it was termed the new work towards St. William's gate. This gate was placed opposite the north door; through it was an entrance into the High-street, where there was a cross erected in honour of the saint. The gate near the north door of the church, over which is a room belonging to the third prebendary, was formerly called the sacristy gate. It was so denominated from its leading to the apartments and garden of the sacrist.

The objects which we have noticed above, are those to which the attention of the cursory visitor is usually directed; but we cannot quit our notice of this cathedral without observing that the west front and the nave are entitled to deliberate examination. In those parts of the structure we view august specimens of the Anglo-Norman style of architecture, as practised by one of the most able builders of the 11th century. The semicircular and stately arches, the ponderous columns, and the general simplicity of design, act as a fine school of information for the student of architectural antiquities. The sculptured effigies which adorn the pillars of the great west door, are instances quite unparalleled of the application of the Norman chisel to the representation of statues, not emblematical of scriptural character, and yet free from grotesque or indelicate allusion.

In the cemetery, called anciently le Greenchurch Haw, on the north side of the cathedral, is the church belonging to the parish of St. Nicholas. For several centuries after the Conquest the inhabitants of this district used to offer their devotions at a parochial altar within the cathedral. The original situation is not known; but about the beginning of the fourteenth century, as it is believed, the monks removed the altar to the upper part of the nave, near the steps of the ascent to the choir, as being a more convenient place. The prior and the chapter afterwards promised to accommodate the parishioners with a piece of ground, whereon they might build a separate place of worship; but notwithstanding the inconvenience and trouble that must so frequently have arisen from the people's resorting to their parochial altar, so solicitous were the monks to retain the parishioners in a state of dependence on the mother-church, that a hundred years passed before they would fulfil their engagement. The spirited conduct of Bishop Young, and the interposition of Archbishop Chicheley, to whose arbitration all parties agreed to submit, at length prevailed over the pride and obstinacy of the members of the priory; and the parishioners were, by a composition, dated March 7, 1421, suffered to finish their church, the walls of which had been raised some years before. It appears from the register of Bishop Langdon, that, on account of his being absent, the church was consecrated by John, Bishop of Dromore in Ireland, on Sunday, December the 18th, 1423. By the first article of the agreement, the parishioners were on no account, without leave of the convent, to enlarge the original fabric, except by the addition of a belfry at the northwest end; and the hour's were specified at which they were permitted to ring the bells. According to an inscription over the west door, this church was rebuilt in the early part of the 17th century, being rededicated in 1624. But the building is evidently more ancient, and was merely repaired at that period. The church extends in length from east to west one hundred feet, and from north to south sixty feet. The building is very substantial; the stone walls being of considerable thickness, and supported on ail sides by buttresses. It consists of a nave and two side aisles, which are separated from the nave by two ranges of lofty columns, from which spring the arches that support the roof.

The time when this city was first encompassed by a wall is not exactly known. It is thought by some to have been originally built by the Romans; a conjecture which is rendered far from improbable, by the number of Roman bricks which are seen in the remaining ramparts. The walls were built nearly according to the four cardinal points. They are about half a mile distant from cast to west, but from north to south not a quarter of a mile. In some places they are entire; the northeast angle, in particular, still retains its ancient form, height, and embrasures. The city has at present no gates; but the sites of three are known. In our description of the outer bailey of the castle, the south gate was mentioned. There was another, called Cheldegate, which must have been in that part of the wall that crossed the bottom of the lane opposite the college gate, for Cheldegate was the ancient appellation of that lane. The third was East-gate; it stood at the east end of the High-street, and was the only gate in use in Leland's time, who mentions it to have been in most part remaining, and "marvellous strong." King Henry II. in the 12th year of his reign, granted to the citizens and their heirs the city in fee, or perpetual farm; and allowed them a guild-mercantile and other valuable privileges. The corporate seal is a curious piece of sculpture, which is judged to be of equal antiquity with the first charter. The privileges granted by Henry were confirmed and extended by his successors. King Charles I. gave the last charter, August 11th, 1630; and, by virtue of it, the corporation consists of a mayor, eleven aldermen, and twelve common-council men, a recorder and town-clerk. The mayor is elected on Monday next before the feast of St. Matthew yearly, and sworn into his office on Monday next after the feast of St. Michael. The mayor, recorder, senior aldermen, and late mayor, are justices of the peace within the limits of the corporation. This city sends two members to parliament, who are elected by the freemen at large.

At the entrance into the High Street, next the bridge, at a small distance from the left, are the remains of St. Clement's church. At the entrance of the lane, which formerly bore the name of the saint to whom the church was dedicated, some of the walls are still visible. The ruins are converted into three dwelling houses, in one of which are some pillars and an arch entire. By the statute of second or third of Edward VI. the parish of St. Clement's was united to that of St. Nicholas.

The Town-hall is on the north side of the High-street, and was erected in 1687. It is a handsome brick-building, supported by duplicated columns of stone, of the Doric order; the area under it was paved with Purbeck stone, at the expense of Sir Stafford Fairborne, in 1706. The entrance into the hall is by a spacious staircase, the ceiling of which is curiously ornamented; as is the ceiling of the hall, with trophies of war, fruits, and flowers. The upper end of the hall is adorned with full-length portraits of King William III. and Queen Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. At the lower end are portraits of Sir Cloudesly Shovel; Sir John Jennings; Sir Thomas Colby; Sir Joseph Williamson; and Mr. Watts. Here also are portraits of Sir John Lake; Sir Thomas Palmer, and Sir Stafford Fairborne; all by the best masters of that age. The public business respecting the government of the city, is transacted in this hall; and here also the judges have frequently held the assizes for the county. The clock-house was erected at the expense of Sir Cloudesly Shovel, in the year 1706.

At a small distance eastward, and directly opposite to the College-gate, is the ancient Cheldegatelane, so named from a gate there placed. Near the spot on which the pump stands in the main street, was anciently the corn cross. At a little distance on the left, is the customhouse; attached to which is the house appointed for the reception of six poor travellers. The following inscription placed over the door, shews the design of this charity. "Richard Watts, Esq. by his will, dated 22nd of August, 1579, founded this charity for six poor travellers; who, not being rogues or proctors, may receive gratis, for one night, lodging, entertainment, and fourpence each. In testimony of his munificence, in honour of his memory, and inducement to his example, Nathaniel Hood, Esq. the present mayor, has caused this stone gratefully to be renewed and inscribed, A. D. 1771." For the support of this charity, Mr. Watts left an estate, valued at that time at no more than 36l. per year, which estate now produces an income of more than 1000l. per annum. By his will, lie ordered that what surplus remained, after defraying the expenses of this house for travellers, should be given to the poor of Rochester; in consequence of which it is paid to the overseers and churchwardens, in such proportions as the court of chancery has decreed.

At a small distance, on the same side of the street, is the Free-school, founded by Sir Joseph Williamson, secretary of state in the reign of Charles the second, and a representative of this city in three parliaments during the reign of William III.

At this end of the High street, stood the East-gate. By the charter of Edward IV. a licence was given to the mayor and citizens to build upon it, for the use and profit of the city, new houses, as well of stone as wood. A part of it was remaining when the houses were erected opposite the Free-school. The spacious street without the gate acquired from it its name. A legacy being left about the year 1529, towards the repair of a bridge of wood in east-gate, it seems that the tide must have occasionally flowed across this street. A new road that leads to Canterbury opens to view at the bottom of the street. From this road are beautiful prospects of the Medway, the ordnance-office, the dockyard, the guard ships, and the ships lying in ordinary.

St. Catherine's Hospital was founded by Simon Potyn, master of the Crown Inn, in 1316, for the support of leprous and other diseased persons. It is now the habitation of twelve poor persons who have separate rooms to live in, are found in coals and caudles, and receive an annual stipend in money.

The city of Rochester is strongly fortified on the south side, agreeably to the modern system of defence. Fort Pitt, partly in the parish of St. Margaret, Rochester, and partly in that of Chatham, was erected in 1803, being originally intended for a military hospital. In 1812, Fort Clarence was built, a little to the west of St. Margaret's church; and a broad deep ditch, extending from the river to the Maidstone road, and defended by a rampart, with Casemates for troops and magazines for powder, was completed at the same time. These, in conjunction with Chatham Lines, are considered as a regular series of fortified positions, commanding the river, and extending from Gillingham Fortto the right bank of the Medway, above Rochester bridge.

According to the returns made under the Population Act in 1811, the number of houses in this city was 1541, and the number of inhabitants 9070.

---

ROCHESTER is a city and parliamentary and municipal borough, the head of a Bishop’s see, and of a petty sessional division, the seat of a customs port of entry and the head quarters of an inland revenue district, and is 29 miles from London, 8 north from Maidstone, 7 south-east from Gravesend, 27 north-west from Canterbury and 42 in the same direction from Dover, on the high road to Dover, and on the south bank of the navigable river Medway, in the Mid division of the county, lathe of Aylesford and Medway union, Strood and Frindsbury forming part of the Strood union, and in the rural deanery and archdeaconry of Rochester. The North Kent section of the South Eastern and Chatham railway has a station at Strood, the line crossing the Medway by an iron lattice bridge, constructed in 1890; the line is continued with a station at Rochester, and a terminal station near the boundary of Rochester and Chatham, called the Chatham central station. The Chatham section of this railway has a station at Rochester bridge, in Strood, where the line crosses the river by a girder bridge, and there is another station in the Rochester High street. The city, which is built on a somewhat irregular plan, and extends for a considerable distance along the bank of the Medway, is connected with Strood by a handsome and substantial iron bridge of three arches, erected in 1857 and 1858, from designs by Sir William Cubitt, at a cost of £200,000, defrayed partly by accumulated funds arising from the bridge estates, the remainder having been borrowed on mortgage; the bridge has a centre arch of 178 feet, and two side arches of 140 feet each: the river Medway is under the jurisdiction of a Conservancy Board, to whom in March, 1882, the Corporation surrendered all their ancient privileges and superintendence over the river Medway for a sum of £65,000.

The first charter of incorporation was granted by Henry II. in 1165, and confirmed by succeeding monarchs up to the time of Charles I. by whom a new charter was granted; the municipal body now comprises a mayor, recorder, 6 aldermen and 18 councillors; under the provisions of the “Municipal Corporations Act, 1835,” the borough was divided in three wards. By an Order in Council, dated 13th May, 1901, it was re-divided into six wards, viz.: Frindsbury, St. Margaret, St. Nicholas, St. Peter, Strood and Troy Town; quarter sessions are held here, and there is also a commission of the peace for the city, which is well lighted with gas and supplied with water from works at Luton, belonging to the Brompton, Chatham, Gillingham and Rochester Waterworks Company. The electric light is also now used by many business houses, and is produced from works situated in Chatham.

The parliamentary borough returned two members from Edward I. until the passing of the “Redistribution of Seats Act, 1885,” which reduced the number to one. The limits are co-extensive with the municipal borough and comprise Rochester, Frindsbury Intra and Strood Intra.

By an Order of the County Council, confirmed by Order, No. 31,627, of the Local Government Board, dated Sept. 30Th 1894, and under the provisions of the “Local Government Act, 1894” (56 & 57 Vict. c. 73), the parish of St. Margaret Rochester has been divided into two, Intra and Extra, the former comprising that part of the old parish in the municipal borough, and Extra the remainder.

The limits of the port of Rochester were declared October 31st, 1882, to extend from the north-eastern extremity of the isle of Graine in Kent, easterly across the entrance to the Medway and along the coast of the isle of Sheppy, to the Lands End in the parish of Warden (being the boundary of the port of Faversham), and to extend seawards from the coast within the said limits three miles from low water mark, including the river Medway, and also the water called the “West Swale,” as far as an imaginary line drawn from Elmley Chapel, in the isle of Sheppy, to Swale Church (limits of the port of London), on the mainland, the said line being the boundary of the port of Faversham, and including further all islands, creeks, harbours and places within the said limits.

Fishing boats and their implements are distinguished by the letters R. R.

Rochester was called by the Britons Dourbryf, signifying “a swift stream,” in allusion to the rapidity of the Medway. The Romans called it Durobrovis and Durobrovum: by the Saxons it was denominated Hroffeceaster, from the name of one Hroffe or Roffe, who erected some buildings here, and from the Roman “castrum,” implying that the Romans had a fortified port here, hence the Latinised adjective Roffensis. Ethelbert the Bretwalda and King of Kent founded a Bishop’s see here in 604, when Justus, who was sent from Rome A.D. 601, to assist St. Augustine in the conversion of the Anglo-Saxons to Christianity, was appointed the first bishop. In 676 the city was destroyed by Ethelred, King of Mercia, and again by the Danes in 839: being rebuilt, it was besieged by these marauders in 885, but relieved by King Alfred: in 986 it was attacked a second time by King Ethelred: in 998 sacked by the Danes, and in 1088, William Rufus, after a six weeks’ siege, took the castle.

Rochester was nearly destroyed by fire in 1130 and 1137, and in 1174 the city and part of the cathedral were burned. In 1215 the castle was taken by King John, after a siege of twelve months; in 1216 it surrendered to the Dauphin Louis of France and in 1217 was retaken. Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, the founder of our Parliamentary liberties, made an attempt upon the castle in 1264, and failing to capture it, held possession of the city and despoiled the church: Wat Tyler, in his insurrection of 1381, also attacked the castle, and here too Jack Cade’s rabble rout dispersed themselves. Queen Elizabeth visited this city in 1573; Charles II. slept here on his landing at the Restoration, and the Dutch in Charles II.’s time sailed up the Medway and burnt several vessels, and in 1688 King James H. on his abdication, secretly embarked ait Rochester in his flight to the Continent.

The see of Rochester was founded by St. Augustine early in the 7th century. In Saxon times the cathedral church was parochial as well as cathedral, and was served by secular priests: Gundulph, the second Norman bishop, replaced the seculars by regulars, and built a new cathedral church, the eastern parts of which were devoted to the use of the monks, while the nave served as the parish church, the vicar being appointed by the monks: when in 1423 the parishioners built a separate parish church (St. Nicholas), the cathedral church then ceased to be parochial.

The Cathedral of St. Andrew, Rochester, was begun by Bishop Gundulph, 1077—1108, but is of various ages, and consists of choir, with transepts and chapels, nave, aisles, transepts with transeptal chapels on the eastern side and a central tower; adjoining the north end of the great transept on the east are the remains of Gundulph's tower, a massive building 24 feet square, with walls six feet in thickness, probably once forming a transept tower, as at Exeter. Ernulph, the architect of great works, while Abbot of Peterborough and Prior of Canterbury, completed the church, built the dormitory, infirmary and chapter house and lengthened the nave by two bays eastward, 1115—25: the narrow Early English choir, of which William de Hoo, when sacrist, is the reputed builder, was first used May 9Th 1227, and is raised considerably above the nave, and approached by a flight of steps to an arched entrance in the wall, closed by gates, separating the choir from the nave; each side of the choir has four compartments with lancet arches, and the roof is groined, springing from clustered shafts of dark marble: the choir was restored by the late Sir Gilbert Scott R.A. in 1874—5 when much of the original woodwork of the 13th century, with other portions added in the 16th century, as well as some 14th century wall-painting above the stalls, was carefully preserved and the floor richly paved: the walls are adorned with the fleur-de-lis and lion, and the arms of successive bishops from Gundulph: on the south side are three Decorated sedilia, restored in 1825, which mark the ancient site of the high altar, before the Lady chapel was thrown into the choir in the 15th century: the choir transepts were added by William de Hoo, with the offerings made at St. Williams shrine and the north transept is a chapel dedicated to that saint (canonized in 1256); the south transept is roofed with oak, part dating from the time of Edward I.: the crypt, which extends under the whole length of the choir, is mostly Early English, and was completed by William de Hoo in 1227; it was restored about 1897 at a cost of between £600 and £700: the tower rises from the intersection of the western or great transept with the nave and choir, and as originally built in 1352, by Bishop Shepey and Hamo de Hethe, consisted of a low tower with a short and inelegant though venerable spire, added in 1479: the modern debased and incongruous structure was erected by Mr. Cottingham in 1827 and rests on arches, springing from fine clustered banded shafts, and is square, and embattled, with tall pinnacles; the north wing of the main transept, Early English, was built by the monk, Richard de Eastgate, sacrist and Thomas de Meopham: and the south wing by the monk Richard de Waldene, about the year 1200: on the western side of the south wing is St. Mary’s chapel of three bays, and on the eastern side the muniment room.

The stone screen between the nave and choir was adorned in 1890 with canopied niches to contain figures of bishops, as a memorial to the Very Rev. Robert Scott D.D. dean of Rochester, 1870—87; this screen supports the organ, which is in two parts, and serves for the divine services held both in the nave and choir.

The nave is the most ancient of any in the kingdom and is Norman (except the two easternmost arches on each side, rebuilt probably with the intention of its complete reconstruction, and the windows, which are almost all of Decorated or Perpendicular date); the arches, therefore, consist of six Norman and two Early English arches, two of the Norman piers being octagonal and others having attached shafts; above is a rich triforium of semi-circular arches, opening into the aisles, but extending along the six Norman bays only and above, this rises a lofty clerestory, with windows of late Perpendicular date; the modern oak roof is flat, supported on corbels; the Norman font, used since 1850, has been removed, and a new one placed at the west end of the nave in memory of the late Rev. Hy. William Burrows M.A. Canon of Rochester 1881—92; the north aisle was begun by Richard de Eastgate and completed by William Axenham in the 13th century; the south aisle was built in 1240. The restoration of the west front, a noble specimen of the Norman style, was begun in 1888, and completed about 1898; the total cost of this and works connected with it amounted to £7,358; the doorway, although much worn, is altogether unrivalled as an example of the Norman style; it consists of a deeply recessed semi-circular arch, enriched with beautiful mouldings of four orders, on shafts with highly elaborated capitals; on the two opposite shafts are figures, much defaced, of Henry I. and Queen Maud and the tympanum bears reliefs of Our Lord and the Apostles, with figures of cherubim and evangelistic symbols; on either side of the arch and extending across the flanking turrets is an arcading with niches, enclosing recently placed figures of Gundulph and John of Canterbury, presented by the Freemasons of the neighbourhood; the four arcaded turrets at the end of the nave and aisles, destroyed about 1760, have been completely restored, and were finished in 1894; the two smaller turrets which flank the great west window rise to the parapet in three square stages, and above this in two octagonal stages, and terminate in spirelets; the turrets at the end of the aisles are considerably larger, but differ from each other; that at the north-west has five square stages and a kind of low broach spire; the south-west turret is also square in its three lower stages and octagonal on the two upper stages, and is finished with spired capping, its height being greater than that of the corresponding turret; the whole of these turrets are enriched with narrow arcading.

The west ends of the aisles have enriched Norman windows, but the rest of the exterior of the nave is plain; the large Perpendicular west window of eight lights is of the date of Henry VII.; this and the Norman windows were filled with stained glass in 1885 as memorials to the Royal Engineers who fell in Afghanistan and South Africa, as recorded on each side of the doorway; the stained east window was replaced in its original form in 1874; at the south end of the great transept memorial windows were unveiled Aug. 9, 1888, to Maj. Gen. Charles George Gordon R.E., C.B. killed at Khartoum, 26 Jan. 1885, and to the officers and men of the Royal Engineers who were killed, or died from their wounds or disease, in the Egyptian and Soudan Campaigns of 1881 to 1885, and to those officers who served and were tilled in the Peninsula and at Waterloo; at the north end of this transept are other stained windows.

The principal monuments in the cathedral are as follows: North-east transept-Bishop Walter de Merton, drowned in 1278, a fine tomb dating from the transitional period between Early English and Decorated, with pyramidal canopies, restored by Hussey in 1849; Bishop John Lowe ob. 1467, an altar-tomb; here also was the shrine of St. William of Rochester, a baker of Perth murdered outside the walls of Rochester, when on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, in 1201, by a servant of Prior Silvester and canonized in 1256; north side of choir-Bishop John de Shepey, ob. 1361, an effigy with original colouring, discovered in 1825, and modern canopy; Presbytery, north side-Bishop Gundulph, ob, 1107, a simple stone cist; and Bishop Thomas Inglethorpe, ob. 1291, with a canopied effigy of Petworth marble; south side-Bishop Laurence de St. Martin, ob. 1274, with a perfect effigy, beneath an Early Decorated canopy; and Bishop Gilbert de Glanvill, ob. 1214, a coped tomb of Petworth marble, much mutilated; south choir aisle-Bishop John de Bradfield, ob. 1283, a mutilated tomb, with canopy and effigy; north-east transept aisle-Bishop Hamo de Hethe, ob. 1352, with a rich canopy of Decorated work; nave-tomb of John, 1st Baron Henniker, d. April 18Th 1803; and an incised slab to Bishop John Fishex, ob. 1535; there is also a monument to Richard Watts, ob. 1579, the founder of the charity bearing his name; a brass tarblet to the celebrated novelist, Charles Dickens, whose boyhood was passed in Rochester and who died at Gad’s Hill place, near the city, June 9, 1870, and a marble portrait medallion of Joseph Maas, the singer, d. 1886, formerly a chorister here.

The total length of the cathedral is 310 ft. the nave being 159 ft. long by 65 ft. 4 in broad and 55 ft. high, and the choir 110 ft. 6 in long, or, with the lady chapel, about 164 ft.; the main transept extends for 122 ft. 3 in the choir transept for 92 ft. and the west front has an extreme breadth of 94 ft.; the central tower is 156 ft. high and Gundulph's tower 95 ft.; at the south-east corner are, some Norman remains of the ancient chapter house and cloisters; the former, partly erected by Bishop Hamo de Hethe and now rebuilt, has a very beautiful west front, elaborately carved with the zodiacal signs; the doorway, attributed to Bishop Shepey, 1352, is a rich work, set between two highly-sculptured arches and represents the Church as a prelate and the Jewish Synagogue as a woman blindfold, with other figures, apparently of ecclesiastics, accompanied by symbolical designs; the, cloister occupies a unique position on the south-east side of the choir, an arrangement which occurs in no other cathedral; to its southern wall was attached the refectory, built by Silvester, the prior, after 1177 and there still exist remains of a passage through the wall to the pulpit, as at Chester Cathedral and Beaulieu Abbey, Hants. A sum of £14,000 was spent between 1827 and 1834 in restorations; in 1840 the whole interior of the cathedral was renovated and during the period 1871—79 a further scheme of restoration was carried out at a cost of £23,300, and since then several stained windows have been erected by the Royal Engineers, at a probable cost of £2.000. The library of upwards of 1,100 volumes, contains some ancient MSS. and among others the celebrated register of the diocese, the “Textus Roffesis,” A.D. 1120 and the “Custumale Roffense,” composed about 1320.

The establishment of the cathedral consists of a dean, four canons, two minor canons, six lay clerks, eight choristers and four probationers, with a Grammar school attached, having on the Foundation a master and twenty scholars. The gross income of the Dean and Chapter has been returned at £7,178 yearly and the net income at £5,106. The Bishop’s see comprises the archdeaconry of Rochester in this county and the archdeaconries of Kingston and Southwark, in Surrey; the Bishop, who resides in London, has a suffragan, the Bishop of Southwark, to assist him in the oversight of a diocese which is now in point of population the second in the kingdom. Three gates of the Priory remain:-the Prior’s, an embattled tower on the south-east; the Deanery or Sacristy, adjoining the north transept; and the College Yard or Cemetery Gate, which led from the Market cross to the west door, stands near the High street. Of the three precinct gates, the north or St. William’s, is destroyed, but the embattled arch of the south cloister still exists: the almonry, on the south-west, has been converted into a prebendal house. Minor Canon row was built in 1736. The ancient Bishop’s palace is divided into dwelling houses.

Rochester had formerly four parish churches, but the site of St. Mary’s is unknown.

The church of St. Margaret is of stone, now chiefly in the Italian style, having been wholly rebuilt, with the exception of the tower, at the beginning of the present century, but retains a plain embattled western tower, of Perpendicular date, containing 6 bells; in the church is a palimpsest of brass: in 1872 the church was restored and renewed and a stained east window inserted; there are 900 sittings, 450 being free. The register dates from the year 1569. The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £230, with residence, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter, and held since 1902 by the Rev. Joseph Kershaw Wilson M.A. of Corpus Christi College, Cambridge.

The church of St. Nicholas is chiefly of flint in the Decorated and Perpendicular styles; it was erected in 1421, but greatly enlarged in 1624, and restored in 1892, and has a tower, of Perpendicular date, containing 2 bells; there are several brasses and tablets to the Foord and Gordon families, and a curious octagonal stone font with the word “Cristian” round it in ancient capitals. The church possesses some very valuable communion plate, the gift of former citizens; there are sittings for 954, about 320 being free. The register dates from the year 1624. The living is a vicarage, with the rectory of St. Clement annexed, net income £191, with residence, in the gift of the Bishop of Rochester, and held since 1899 by the Rev. Augustine Briggs. M.A. of Jesus College, Cambridge.

St. Clement’s church has been demolished and the parish is united to that of St. Nicholas.

St. Peter’s is an ecclesiastical parish, formed 28 August, 1860, out of St. Margaret’s; the church, erected in 1859, at a cost of £6,000, is of stone and brick, in the Decorated style, and has a tower, containing a clock and one bell; the east and west windows are memorials, to members of the Nicholson family; there are 800 sittings, 561 being free. The register dates from the year 1860. The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £195, with residence, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Rochester, and held since 1899 by the Rev. Henry Arthur Hickin, of Corpus Christi College, Cambridge.

The Meeting House for the Society of Friends, in Northgate, erected in 1814, has 150 sittings.

The Jews’ Synagogue, in High street, erected by Simon Magnus, a merchant of Chatham, to the memory of his son, will seat 150.

The Wesleyan chapel, in High street, erected in 1813 has sittings for 750. The Congregational chapel, The Vines, erected in 1850, will seat 500 persons. Bartholomew Free church, in Cross street, erected in 1878, has 450 sittings. The Free Methodist chapel, on Star hill, erected in 1856, will seat 500.

The Baptist chapel, in Maidstone road, was erected in 1888, at a cost (including alterations of “Moat house” for Sunday schools) of £850; there are 350 sittings.

St. Margaret’s Cemetery, on the Maidstone road, is twelve acres in extent; it has two mortuary chapels, and is under the control of a burial board of 9 members.

St. Nicholas’ Cemetery, on the Maidstone road, has an area of four acres, with mortuary chapels and is also under the control of a burial board of 9 members.

The Guildhall, erected in 1687, is an edifice of red brick, supported on columns forming an open basement, and a gilt ship serves as a vane; it contains portraits of William III., Queen Anne, and Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovel, who represented the city in Parliament. The Corn, Exchange, in the High street, rebuilt in 1870—1, occupies the site of the old Clock House, a structure of red brick, erected in 1706—8 by Sir Cloudesley Shovel, the pedimented front of which, together with its projecting clock, still remain; over the Exchange is a large assembly room, with a dais at the further end. The basement of the Exchange, entered from Pump lane, has been assigned to the Rochester Free Library, founded in 1887, and containing 2,500 volumes of standard works, comprising works of reference, fiction, biography, science and art and German and French classes.

Eastgate House, in High street, is a fine example of the Domestic architecture of the 16th century, and is rich in oak panel work, carved overmantels and elaborate ceilings. It was purchased as a memorial of the Diamond Jubilee of Her late Majesty Queen Victoria, and has been thoroughly restored and cleared of all modern fittings and additions, and the collections of the Museum, founded in 1892, to illustrate the history and natural history of the district, have been placed in it. These collections comprise numerous fossils from the local chalk deposits, and an extensive aeries of British, Roman, Anglo-Saxon and Mediaeval antiquities. One large room is devoted to the magnificent collection of Kentish birds and natural history books, bequeathed to the city by the late Mr. Walter Prentis, of Rainham. Another room is filled with a valuable series of local engravings; while the hall is adorned with portraits of the Royal and distinguished visitors to Rochester from the 14th to the 18th century. Eastgate House was the residence of Sir Peter Bucke knt. c. 1590. In 1604 he there entertained King James I., the Queen (Anne of Denmark), King Christian IV. of Denmark, and the Prince of Wales. During the 18th and the early part of the 19th centuries the house was used as a ladies’ school, since that time it has been let for various, purposes.

Markets are held every Tuesday for corn and cattle.

A fair is held at Rochester on the 18th May and at Strood on the 26Th 27th and 28th of August. Some trade is carried on by means of the Medway, and vessels of considerable tonnage come up the river.

In 1901 158 British sailing and steam vessels of 24,063 tonnage entered the port with cargoes and in ballast, and 29 cleared of 14,062 tons, and 153 Foreign vessels entered of 64,474 tonnage and 60 cleared of 15,683 tons.

In the general coasting trade 1,046 sailing and steam vessels entered in the port with cargoes in 1901 of 300,430 tonnage, and 904 cleared of 107,073 tons. In the same year 170 vessels entered in ballast of 20,904 tonnage and 529 cleared of 250,803 tons.

The number of vessels registered under part 1 of the “Merchant Shipping Act, 1694,” as belonging to the port, December 31, 1901, was 1,061 of 57,732 tons.

The number of fishing boats registered at the same date, as belonging to the port, under part IV of the same Act was 17 only employing 38 men and boys.

A small import trade is done, the total value of all articles in 1901 being £275,276.

There is a custom house, the revenue collected in 1901 was £8,844.

The Lock-up is used for the purposes of local jurisdiction. Convicted prisoners are taken to Maidstone prison.

The County Court Offices, in High street, erected in 1862, form a building of red brick, in a modified Tudor style.

City of Rochester Liberal Club, Castle hill, erected in 1889 at a cost of £6,200, the property of a limited liability company, is a structure of brick, with Bath stone facings; it has a hall, seating 650 persons.

The Rochester and Strood Conservative Club, on Star hill, built on the site of the Old Theatre by a Limited Liability Company, at a cost of £3,000, and opened on December 10Th 1884, contains a large hall capable of seating 400 persons.

The Rochester and County Club is at Castle Moat, and the Castle Club near Rochester bridge.

Fort Pitt, on an elevated site overlooking the Medway, was erected in the early part of last century, and is now used as a military hospital, the original building having been considerably enlarged.

The Recreation ground near Fort Pitt and Chatham railway station affords extensive views of the city and river.

The Vines, once the vineyard of the monks, is another place of recreation off the Maidstone road.

The Rochester and Chatham Joint Hospital Board (St. William’s Hospital) Infectious Diseases Hospital, Delce road, was erected in 1883, at a cost of about £6,000, for 32 inmates; it is now (1902) being extended at a cost of £9,000.

A Small Pox Hospital has recently (1902) been erected by the Board in Delce lane, about half a mile from St. William’s Hospital.

The Poor Travellers’ House was founded and endowed in 1579 by Richard Watts, for six poor travellers, “not being common rogues nor proctors”; each traveller receives a night's lodging, a supper and fourpence on leaving in the morning; the revenues, which at the time of the donor’s death were small, have so increased as to amount at the present time (1902) to upwards of £4,000 yearly; in July 1883, a scheme was sanctioned by the Court, of Chancery for building almshouses for men and women, and these have since been erected in the Maidstone road, at a cost of nearly £10,000, in the Tudor style, with two fine gateways, each costing £350, from designs by Mr. Webb, of London; the scheme like-wise empowered the trustees to give a sum of £4,000 towards the erection of St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, and a sum of £1,000 yearly towards its support. The charity of Richard Watts is now administered under a subsequent scheme of the Court of Chancery, framed in 1886; the main objects of the charity are the maintenance of 14 inmates at the above almshouses, and of a staff of nurses for the gratuitous nursing of the poor; the maintenance of the poor travellers’ house, and of swimming and hot water baths, and the apprenticing of poor children to some honest trade or calling.

The House of Industry, founded by Sir J. Hayward, of Rochester, in the year 1823, is available for one man and eight poor women, and there are apartments for the caretaker.

St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, originally founded by Gundulph, stands on the borders of Rochester and Chatham.

St. Catherine’s Hospital, Star hill, originally founded by Symond Potyn, of Rochester, in 1316, for lepers, is now appropriated as the residence of twenty-two aged females, each with a pension of £28 yearly.

Hawkins’s charity, founded by Sir John Hawkins, in 1592, and situated in Chatham Intra, is for decayed seamen; the inmates are appointed by the dock authorities; deputy-governor and receiver, A. A. Arnold, The Precincts.

Other charities, producing £150 yearly, are distributed in bread.

There are some ancient houses in the city, notably Satis house, the Restoration house (Elizabethan), facing the Vines, Eastgate house (16th century), in the High street, and the Crown and Bull inns.

Rochester Castle, near the bridge, built by Gundulph, is an ancient Norman edifice, with very thick walls of Kentish ragstone; but little remains except the magnificent keep, one of the finest castellated ruins in the kingdom, and consisting of a massive structure, 70 feet square and 104 feet high, with flat buttresses and a turret at each angle, three of these being square and the fourth circular: a quantity of pigeons have made the keep their home: the Castle, with its grounds, was purchased in 1883 by the Corporation from the Earl of Jersey, at a cost of from £6,000 to £7,000, and the grounds subsequently laid out for public recreation at a cost of £2,000, and a band stand erected. From the summit of the keep extensive views of the neighbouring country are obtained, and access is obtained on payment of a small fee. Along the bank of the river Medway there is an esplanade, and a pier has been constructed.

The area of St. Margaret’s Intra parish is 2,178 acres of land, 84 of tidal water, and 86 of foreshore; rateable value, £48,039; population in 1901, 14,408, including 223 in Fort Pitt Military Hospital, 28 in Fort Clarence Military Prison, 311 in Borstal Convict Prison and 89 in St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, and 62 in St. William’s Infectious Diseases Hospital.

The area of St. Nicholas parish is 125 acres of land, 52 of tidal water and 16 of foreshore; rateable value, £25,129; population in 1901, 2,590, including 145 on board vessels and barges.

Cathedral precincts, area 7 acres; rateable value, £929; population in 1901, 92.

The area of St. Margairet’s Extra civil parish is 323 acres; rateable value, £139; the population in 1901 was 15.

The area of the municipal borough is 2,933 acres; rateable value, £125,370.

The population of the municipal wards in 1901 was Frindsbury, 6,124; St. Margaret, 4,092; St. Nicholas, 2,735; St. Peter, 5,418; Strood, 6,868; Troy Town, 5,353.

The population of the ecclesiastical parishes in 1901 was St. Margaret, 5,963; St. Nicholas with St. Clement, 2,735; St. Matthew, Borstal, 1,850; St. Peter, 6,615.

The number of electors on the parliamentary register in 1902 was 5,226.

Troy Town is a southern suburb in the parish of St. Margaret; Delce, half a mile south; Borstal, 1 mile south-west.

Petty Sessions are held at the Police Court, Chatham, every tuesday & friday at 11 o'clock & at the Police Court, Northfleet, every alternate monday at 11.30 a.m. The places in the Petty Sessional Division are:-Allhallows, Chalk, Chatham, Cliffe, Cobham, Cooling, Cuxton, Denton, Frindsbury (Extra), Gillingham, Graine (Isle of), Hailing, High Halstow, Higham, Hoo, Ifield, Lidsing, Luddesdown, Meopham, Northfleet, Nursted, Cathedral Precincts, St. Margaret (Extra), St. Mary’s (Hoo), Shorne, Stoke, Strood (Extra) & Wouldham.

STROOD UNION

Board days, alternate thursdays, at the Board room, the Union house, Strood, at 11 a.m..

The Strood union comprises the following places, viz.:-Chalk, Cliffe-at-Hoo, Cobham, Cuxton, Denton, Frindsbury Intra, Frindsbury Extra, Hailing, Higham, Ifield, Luddesdown, Meopham, Northfleet, Nursted, Shorne, Strood Extra & Strood Intra. The population of the union in 1901 was 40,336; area, 36,937 acres; the rateable value 1902, £234,979.

Workhouse, Strood, built in 1837, to hold 521 inmates.

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of services

Cathedral Church of Chrisit & the Blessed Virgin Mary, 'holy communion, 8 a.m. & after matins; matins & sermon, 10.30 a.m.; litany & sermon, 3 p.m.; evensong, 4 p.m.; service & sermon, 7 p.m.; week days, matins-plain, 8 a.m.; matins for King’s school, 8.45 a.m.; matins-choral, 10 a.m.; evensong 4 p.m.; thurs. & holy days-substitute matins for holy communion, 8 a.m.; fri.-add plain litany at 12 noon; service & sermon on wed. in Advent & Lent & daily in holy week, 8 p.m.

St. Margaret’s Church, Rev. Joseph Kershaw Wilson M.A. vicar; 8 & 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; saints’ days, 8 & 11.30 а.m.

St. Nicholas’ Church, Rev. Augustine Briggs M.A. vicar; Rev. John Crampton Triphook, curate; 11 a.m.. & 6.30 p.m.; wed. 7 p.m.; fri. 12 noon.

St. Peter’s Church, Rev. Henry Arthur Hickin, vicar; Rev. Ernest Edward Crawford M.A. & Rev. Philip Vincent Montgomerie B.A. curates; 8 & 11 a.m. & 3 & 6.30 p.m.; daily, 10 a.m. & 5.30 p.m.; wed.7.30 p.m.; thurs. 7.45 a.m.

St. Matthew's Church (Borstal), Rev. Arthur Cooper-Marsdin M.A., B.D. vicar; 8 & 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; saints’ days, 9 a.m.

St. Andrew’s Mission Church, Cossack street, Rev. Ernest Edward Crawford M.A. curate-in-charge; 8 & 10.30 a.m. & 7 p.m.; thurs. 7.30 p.m.

Jews’ Synagogue, High street, Rev. Moses Isaacs, rabbi; fri. 1 hour before sunset; sat. 9 a.m.; holy days at same time.

Friends’ Meeting House, Northgate; 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; wed. 8 p.m.

Baptist, Maidstone road, Rev. G. Anderson Miller; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; wed. & sat. 7.30 p.m.

Congregational, The Vines, Rev. John Kingdon; 10.45 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; thurs: 7.30 p.m.

Bartholomew Free Church, Cross street, Rev. Bert Miller; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.

United Methodist Free Church, Stiar hill, Rev. Andrew Crombie; 10.45 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.

Wesleyan, High street, Rev. W. H. Jackison (Picken); Rev. Henry J. Parker (New Brompton) & Rev. G. R.

Holt Shafto (Strood); 10.45 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; wed 7 p.m.

Gospel Hall, Hooper's road, A. G. Webb, leader; 10.30 a.m.; 2.30 & 6.30 p.m.

Mission Room, Borstal; 10.45 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.

SCHOOLS

The King’s School was founded by King Henry VIII. A.D. 1542. The foundation scholars, who receive free education, are selected, after an examination, by the Dean & Chapter of Rochester, any boy between the ages of nine & fifteen being eligible; there are also four exhibitions, of the yearly value of £60, paid by the Dean & Chapter & tenable at the Universities or any place of higher education; & two Gunsley Exhibitions at University College, Oxford, of the yearly value of £45; annual prizes are also given to those pupils who distinguish themselves most in classics, mathematics, modern languages & science; a school house has been erected in the Vines for 25 boarders, & there is a cricket ground of 4 acres levelled & enclosed close to the school; Governors: The Dean & Chapter.

The Mathematical School was founded by Sir Joseph Williamson in 1704, in the reign of Queen Anne, its original object being the teaching of mathematics, navigation & other matters appertaining to the sea, but under the provisions of the scheme issued in 1878, it is now organized as a school for general education, & is available for 300 boys, including from 25 to 30 foundation scholars, with a gross endowment of about £1,400 a year. The buildings were considerably enlarged in 1893—4 by the erection in the High street of a substantial block containing a gymnasium, assembly hall, & science & art rooms &c. The school is managed by a body of 22 governors, of whom 4 are ex-officio, 4 co-optative & 14 representative; chairman, the Mayor of Rochester; R. A. Arnold esq. clerk.

Rochester Grammar School for Girls, Maidstone road, was founded 3 April, 1888, under a scheme of the Charity Commissioners, out of an Educational grant; of £10,000, made by the Wardens & Commonalty of Rochester Bridge, £6,000 of which is for the building & general endowment of the school, the remaining £4,000 being assigned to the Mathematical school; the buildings, opened in 1889, comprise ten class rooms, a large assembly hall, dining room, lecture, music & art rooms, library, cloak room, kitchen, science lecture room, & a well-fitted laboratory, & there is also a good playground. The school now numbers about 230 pupils, some of whom are foundation scholars. Foundation scholarships, in the form of total or partial exemption from fees, are awarded in the proportion of nob more than one far every 10 girls in the school; the school is managed by a body of 22 governors, of whom 4 are ex-officio, 4 co-optative & 14 representative; boarders are received at Trevine.

School of Art, Technical Institute, Guildhall, George Ward A.R.C.A. headmaster.

Technical Institute, Guildhall; W. H. Marsh, organizing secretary.

Choristers’ School, Cathedral precincts, erected in 1889, for 18 boys.

A School Board of 9 members was formed 13 Jan. 1871, Apsley Kennette, Guildhall, clerk; George Frederick Wood, attendance officer, 46 King street, Rochester.

Board School, Troy town, erected in 1873 & enlarged in 1892, for 400 boys, 400 girls & 250 infants, with a full attendance in each department.

St. Margaret’s National & Barnard’s Charity, built for 156 boys, 119 girls & 189 infants; average attendance, 120 boys, 116 girls & 160 infants.

St. Nicholas’ National, Free School lane, established in 1857, for 150 girls & 150 infants; boys’, built in 1894, for 160; average attendance, 127 boys, 130 girls & 100 infants.

St. Peter’s National, New road, for 226 boys, 140 girls & 133 infants; average attendance, 211 boys, 137 girls & 125 infants.

St. Peter’s Infants’, Delce, built in 1901, for 160 children; average attendance, 158.

National, Borstal, erected in 1870, for 150 children & enlarged 1887, for 202 boys & girls & infants’, erected in 1894, for 140; average attendance, 190 boys & girls & 110 infants.