The parish of Pancras is of considerable extent, it is bounded on the north by Islington, Hornsey, and Finchley: the boundary towards Hornsey is the hamlet of Highgate, one third of which is in Pancras parish; on the west it is bounded by Hampstead and Mary-le-bone; on the south by St. Giles in the fields St. George the Martyr, St. George Bloomsbury, and St. Andrew’s Holborn; on the west it is bounded by St. James, Clerkenwell; the line of division being between the New River Head and Bagnigge Wells. The following hamlets are in this parish, viz Kentish Town, part of Highgate, Battle-bridge, Camden Town, and Somers Town.

At a place called the Brill in this parish were to be seen some years ago the vestiges of a Roman camp; a part of Somers Town now occupies the site. Dr. Stukely affirms the entrenchment to have been the camp of Julius Caesar. He supposes it to have extended 500 paces by 400, including a small moated site to the south of the church, and another to the north.

Canewood, or Kenwood, in this parish, the seat of the Earl of Mansfield, is most beautifully situated. It was purchased by his lordship’s father in 1755, of the Earl of Bute. Among the many elegant apartments the library is perhaps the most remarkable for its beauty. It was designed by Adams, and is 60 feet in length by 21 in breadth. In this room is a whole-length portrait of the late Lord Mansfield, by Martin, and a bust of him, by Nollekins. The pleasure grounds and the wood which gives name to the place include about 40 acres. In the plantations are some very fine cedars of Libanus, grown to a considerable height, with their leaders entire. One of them was planted by the late Lord Mansfield with his own hands.

The reservoirs belonging to Hampstead waterworks are a great ornament to Kenwood.

"Pancras Church," says Norden, "standeth all alone, as utterly forsaken, old, and weather-beaten, which for the antiquity thereof is thought not to yield to Paule’s in London. About this church have been many buildings, now decayed, leaving poor Pancras without companie or comfort, yet it is now and then visited with Kentish Town and Highgate, which are members there of; but they seldom come there for they have chapels of ease within themselves; but when there is a corpse to be interred they are forced to leave the same within this forsaken church or church-yard. where no doubt it resteth as secure against the day of resurrection as if it laie in stately Paules."

The church is a Gothic structure, built of stone and flints, which are now covered with plaister. It is very small, consisting only of a nave, and chancel, and at the west end a low tower, with a kind of dome. A visitation of this church, anno 1251,mentions a very small tower, a good stone font, and a small marble stone, ornamented with copper, to carry the pax.

There is a very ancient monument in the north wall of the chancel of Purbeck marble, with an elliptical arch, ornamented with quatrefoils; no inscription or arms remain.

The church and church-yard of Pancras have been long noted as the burial place of such Roman catholics as die in London, or its vicinity, almost every tomb here exhibits a cross and the initials R. I. P (requiescat in pace) which initials, or others of the like import, are always used by the catholics upon their sepulchral monuments. The reason of this preference is said to be, that before the Revolution in that country masses were said in a church in the south of France, dedicated to the same saint, for the souls of the deceased interred at St. Pancras in England.

The monuments and memorials in Pancras church and church-yard are too numerous to be particularized here, among them are the following:

On the south wall of the chancel is the monument of Philadelphia, wife of Thomas Wollaston, Esq. of London, the date of which is concealed. It is of the seventeenth century; upon a small monument of veined marble, the effigies of the deceased is represented reclining on a bed, with an infant in her arms.

Upon the tomb of Abraham Langford, Esq. a celebrated auctioneer, who died in 1774, are the following lines.

"His spring of life was such as should have been

Adroit and gay, unvex’d by care or spleen;

His summer’s manhood open, fresh, and fair,

His virtues strict, his manners debonnaire;

His autumn rich with wisdom’s goodly fruit,

Which every varied appetite might suit.

In polish’d circles dignified with case,

And less desirous to be pleas’d than please.

Grave with the serious, with the comic gay,

Warm to advise, yet willing to obey.

True to the fond affections of the heart,

He play’d the friend, the husband, parent’s part.

What needs there more to eternize his fame,

What monument more lasting than his name? "

The tomb of Mrs. Anne Cooper, who died in 1779, has the following epitaph, composed by her daughter.

" Ah! shade rever’d, this frail memorial take,

’Tis all, alas! thy sorrowing child can make,

On this faint stone to mark thy parent worth.

And claim the spot that holds thy sainted earth.

This clay-cold shrine, the corpse enshrouded here,

This holy hillock, bath’d with many a tear,

These kindred flowers that o'er thy bosom grow,

Fed by the precious dust that lies below,

E’en these rude branches that embrace thy head,

And the green sod that forms thy sacred bed,

Are richer, dearer, to this filial heart,

Than all the monuments of proudest art.

Yet, yet a little, and thy child shall come,

To join a mother in this decent tomb.

This only spot of all the world is mine;

And soon my dust, sweet shade! shall mix with thine."

Upon the tomb of William Woollett, the celebrated engraver, who died in 1785, is the following inscription: —"William Woollett, engraver to his Majesty, was born at Maidstone in Kent, upon the 15th of August, 1735. He died the 23rd, and was interred in this place on the 28th day of May, 1785." A monument has also been erected to his memory in the cloisters of Westminster Abbey.

The tomb of Count Haslang, who was buried here in 1783, is thus inscribed:

"Hie conditum illustrissimus et nobilissimus Dominus Josephus Fransiscus Xaverius de Haslang Comes. Sancti Romani Imperii, &c. Ejus memoria omnibus Catholicus percara esse debet. Obiit 29 maii 1783, anno aetatis 83, legationis 42. R. I. P. "

Here lie deposited the remains of his late excellency I. F. X. dc Hashing, Lord of the manors of Hochern, Kamer, Grebling, Hasreush, Langreuth, &c. hereditary grand master of Upper and Lower Bavaria, chamberlain and privy councillor, also envoy extraordinary to the court of London, from his serene highness Charles Theodore, Elector Palatine Duke of Bavaria, and Grand Commander of the illustrious order of St. George. Having lived in the practice of every social virtue, after a Christian preparation, he resigned his soul into the hands of bis Creator, regretted by an amiable sovereign, and lamented by all that knew him. May he rest in peace."

The following chapels are in Pancras parish: Kentish Town Chapel was built in 1783 and 1784, Percy Chapel, in Charlotte Street, Rathbone Place, about the year 1769; Fitzroy Chapel, about the year 1778; Bethel Chapel, at Somers Town, about the year 1787; and St. James Chapel, on the east side of the road from Tottenham Court to Hampstead.

In Tottenham Court Road, within this parish, is a large chapel belonging to the methodists of Mr. Whitefield’s persuasion. It was built by subscription, under the auspices of that celebrated man, who was founder of the community. The first stone was laic! on the 10th of May, 1756, and it was opened on the seventh of November following.

Mrs. Whitefield was buried in the chapel. Upon the monument to her memory, and that of her husband, who died in New England, is the following inscription:

"in memory of Mrs. Elizabeth Whitefield, aged 62; who, after upwards of 30 years strong and frequent manifestations of a Saviour’s love, and as strong and frequent strugglings with the buffettings of Satan, bodily sicknesses, and the remains of indwelling sin, finished her course with joy, August 9, anno Dom. 1768; also to the memory of the Rev. Mr. George Whitefield, A. M. late chaplain to the Right Hon. the Countess of Huntington, whose soul, made meet for glory, was taken to Immanuel's bosom, the 30th of September, 1770, and whose body now lies in the silent grave at Newbury Port, Near Boston, in New England, there deposited in sure and certain hope of a joyful resurrection to eternal life and glory. He was a man eminent in piety, of an humane, benevolent, and charitable disposition. His zeal in the cause of God was singular, his labours indefatigable, and his success in preaching the gospel remarkable and astonishing. He departed his life in the fifty-sixth year of his age.

And, like his master, was by some despised;

Like him by many others lov’d and prized.

But their’s shall be the everlasting crown,

Not whom the world—but Jesus Christ shall own,"

In the prosecution of his ministry, Mr. Whitefield made seven voyages to America. It was during his last visit to that continent that he died. On receiving the news of his death, the chapel was hung with mourning for six weeks; the pulpit being decorated with escutcheons.

In the year 1758 Mr. Whitefield built twelve Almshouses for poor widows, near the chapel. They are allowed 2s. 6d. weekly out of the sacramental collections.

During the last 50 years the buildings in this parish have encreased in the proportion of 20 to one. The hamlet of Kentish Town has been nearly trebled within the last 30 years; Somers Town was begun in 1793; Camden Town in 1791. Both of these places are every day increasing in the number of houses.

There is a Charity School in this parish for instructing, clothing, qualifying for useful servants, and putting out to service the female children of the industrious poor of this parish; instituted by subscription in the year 1776. A benefaction of 200l. was given to this charity by Mrs. Cullen, and the subscription has been enlarged, so that between 30 and 40 children are now wholly maintained, cloathed, and educated.

The celebrated charity known by the name of the Foundling Hospital, is situated within the parish of Pancras, at the west end of Lamb’s Conduit Street. It was instituted in the year 1739, for the maintenance and education of foundlings, and other poor children, who are admitted in their infancy, and remain in the hospital till the age of fourteen, when they are apprenticed either to trade or service. None are now admitted without a recommendation.

Among the principal benefactors to this institution may be reckoned G. F. Handel, who for several years performed his oratorio of the Messiah at the chapel, to very crowded audiences; and as he engaged the principal performers to contribute their assistance gratis, the profits to the charity were very considerable, in many instances not less than 1000l.

There are several valuable pictures in the hospital, particularly the original of Hogarth’s March to Finchley; Moses presented to Pharaoh’s daughter, by the same artist; Ishmael and Hagar, by Highmore; a Sea-piece, by Brooking; a sketch of the Charter-house, by Gainsborough; and portraits of Captain Coram, Dr. Mead, the Earls of Dartmouth, and Macclesfield, &c. Over the altar in the chapel is a painting by Cazali, representing the Wise Mens Offerings.

The Small Fox Hospital, near Battle Bridge Turnpike, was established in 1746. The king is patron; the names of the president, and other persons belonging to the establishment, are published annually in the court calendar.

Near Gray’s Inn Lane, is the Welch Charity School, built about the year 1771. There are about 50 boys and 20 girls, born of Welch parents in or near London, having no parochial settlement at the place of their birth, wholly maintained, cloathed, and educated. The funds of this institution have been encreased by several benefactions, among which should be particularly noticed that of Mr. Edward Williams, who left the residue of his estate (which amounted to nearly 20001. ) as a grateful remembrance, having received his education here.

Bagnigge Wells, a noted place of entertainment, is situated in this parish, between the New River Head and the Foundling Hospital. It was first opened about the year 1767, in consequence of the discovery of two springs of mineral water, one of which is chalybeate, and the other cathartic. Near Battle Bridge there is a spring called St. Chad’s Well, the water of which is still in use. It is considerably diuretic and somewhat cathartic.

The Veterinary College, in Camden Town, was established in 1791.

Highgate, a populous hamlet, is situated in the parishes of Hornsey and Pancras. The name is said to be derived from the high gate, or the gate cm the hill; there having been from time immemorial the toll-gate of the Bishop of London on the summit of the hill. Norden says, "the ancient road to Barnet was through a lane on the east of Pancras church, whence, leaving Highgate Hill on the left, it passed through Tallingdon Lane, to Crouch End, and thence through Hornsey Park to Colney Hatch, Fream Barnet, and Whetstone. This road in the winter was so deep and miry that St was almost impassible; on which account it was agreed between the Bishop of London and the county that a new one should be laid forth, through the park, beginning at what is now called "Highgate Hill," and leading directly to Whetstone, for which convenience all persons, carriages, &c. passing that way should pay a toll to the bishop of London, and his successors; and for that purpose was the gate erected on the hill."

"Upon this hill," says Norden, "is most pleasant dwelling, yet not so pleasant as healthful, for the expert inhabitants there report, that divers who have been long visited with sickness, not curable by physicke have in a short time repayred their health by that sweete salutarie aire. At this place, Cornwalleys, Esq. hath a very faire house, from which he may with great delight behold the statelie cities of London, Westminster, Greenwich, the famous river of Thamyse, and the country towards the south very faire."

In the court-roll of the bishop’s manor of Hornsey, dated 16 8, mention is made of a small piece of ground at Highgate, lying within certain fortifications called the bulwarks;

There was formerly a hermitage upon the hill, on the spot where the school now is. One of the hermits is said to have made the causeway between Highgate and Islington of gravel taken from the hill, where is now the pool.

In the year 1562, Sir Roger Cholmeley, knight, chief justice of the Queen’s Bench, "did institute and erect at his own charges a publique and Free Grammar Schoole, and procured the same to be established and confirmed by the letters-patent of Queen Elizabeth, he endowing the same with yearlye maintenance." Sir Roger Cholmeley’s endowment at present produces an income of nearly 280l. per annum, out of which the master is allowed a yearly salary of 100l. Forty boys are educated at this school.

Highgate, which adjoins the school, was erected by the bishop of London in 1565, as a chapel of ease for the inhabitants of Highgate. It consists of a small chancel, a nave, and a south aisle. Among; the many interesting memorials in the chapel is the following.

On the south wall, is the monument of Dr. Lewis Atterbury, being a fluted column of the Corinthian order, on the pedestal of which is the following inscription:

"To the memory of Lewis Atterbury, L. L. D. formerly rector of Sywell, in the county of Northampton, and one of the six preachers to her late sacred majesty Queen Anne, at St. James’s, and Whitehall. He was 36 years preacher of this chapel, 24 years rector of Sheperton in the county of Middlesex, and 11 years rector of this parish of Hornsey. He married Penelope, the daughter of John Bedingfield, Esq. by whom he had four children: two sons, who died young, Bedingfield Atterbury, M. A. who died soon after he entered into holy orders, and Penelope, who was married to George Sweetapple, of St. Andrews Holborn, brewer; by whom she had one daughter Penelope Sweetapple, now living. He died at Bath, Oct. 20th. A. D. 1703, in the 76th year of his age, and lies buried near this place. Abi, Spectator et te brevi moriturum Scito."

The master of Highgate School, who is appointed by the governors, is reader also at the chapel; and afternoon preacher. Ten pounds per annum was given by the will of William Place, Esq. in 1637, to the minister of Highgate, and 20s. for a sermon on the immortality of the soul, to be preached upon the anniversary of his burial; the preacher to be appointed by St. John’s College in Cambridge. Sir John Wollaston, who died in 1658, gave 10l. per annum to the preacher at Highgate. Edward Pauncefoot, Esq. gave the sum of 10l. per annum to the reader.

The above mentioned Sir John Wollaston, in the year 1656, founded six Almshouses at Highgate, and endowed them with a rent charge of 15l. per annum. These houses having fallen to ruin, Edward Pauncefort, Esq. in the year 1722, built twelve others on the site, at his own expence, and a school- house in the centre for the charity girls. By his last will he directed 601. per annum to be purchased, one moiety of which he appropriated to the widows in the almshouses.

Samuel Forster, Esq. who died in 1752, left 300l. to the governors of the Free School, to be laid out as their discretion for increasing the pensions of the widows in the almshouses. These pensions have been considerably encreased by various other subsequent benefactions.

The custom of imposing a burlesque nugatory oath upon all strangers upon their first visit to High- gate is well known. A pair of horns, upon which the oath is administered, is kept at every inn.