Tottenham of Tottenham High Cross - This parish is divided into four wards, viz. 1. Nether ward, where stands the parsonage and vicarage. 2. Middle ward, comprehending Marsh Street, and Church End. 3. High Cross ward, containing the hall, the mill, Page Green, and the High Cross. 4 Wood Green ward, comprehending all the rest of the parish, and more extensive than all the three other wards. At the Cross, which was once much higher, and gave name to the place, Queen Eleanor's corpse was rested, when it was brought from Lincolnshire, where she died, to London. It was formerly a column of wood, raised upon a little hillock, whence the village took the name of High Cross. It was taken down about 200 years ago, and the present structure erected in its stead, by Dean Wood.

The Church is situated on an eminence, almost surrounded by the Mosel, a rivulet which rises on Muswell Hill. Over the porch is an apartment, in which the parish business was formerly transacted. It was a few years since inhabited by Elizabeth Flemming, an alms-woman, who lived in it sixty years, and, according to her own account, passed her hundredth year on the 17th of March, 1790. The vestry was erected in 1697, by Lord Coleraine, who made a vault in it for himself and his family; It has indeed the appearance of a mausoleum, having a dome leaded, and surmounted with an obelisk.

Near the church is Bruce Castle. Among the ancient possessors of the manor of Tottenham was Robert Bruce, King of Scotland, from whom the manor-house obtained the name of Bruce Castle, which it still retains. The structure is partly ancient and partly modern. In the house, to the south-west, is a deep well, over which is an ancient brick tower, the upper part of which serves as a dairy.

In a brick-field, on the west side of the road, is St. Loy’s Well, which is said to be always full, and never to run over; and in a field, opposite the vicarage-house, rises a spring, called the Bishop’s Well, of which the common people report many remarkable cures.

In Tottenham parish there are three Almshouses. Of one of them, tor eight poor people, it is remarkable that it was erected by Balthazer Zanchez, a Spaniard, who was confectioner to Philip II. of Spain, with whom he came over to England, and was the first that exercised that art in this country. He became a Protestant, and died in 1602. It is said that he lived in the house now the George and Vulture Inn; at the entrance of which are fixed the arms of England in a garter, supported by a lion and a griffin, and with the initials E. R. over another door is 1587. Here also is a Free School, of which, at the end of the last century, the celebrated antiquary Mr. William Baxter was master.

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TOTTENHAM is a parish, 5 miles from London, in the Tottenham division of the county, hundred, petty sessional division, union and county court district of Edmonton, in the rural deanery of Enfield, archdeaconry of Middlesex and diocese of London, and within the jurisdiction of the Metropolitan police. The river Lee bounds the eastern side of the parish and separates it from the county of Essex. The Moselle rivulet rises at Muswell Hill on the west, and after a circuitous course through the parish falls into the river Lee a little south-east of Page Green common. The Stonebridge brook, rising in Hornsey, enters the parish near the south-west boundary, and joins the Lee near the Moselle. The Great Eastern railway (Cambridge line) traverses the eastern part of the parish, having stations at Tottenham Hale and at the Park; the company has also a line to Enfield on the west of the high road with stations at Bruce Grove and White Hart Lane, and a branch line in connection with the foregoing from Seven Sisters’, with a station at West Green. There are also stations at South Tottenham and St. Ann’s, on the Tottenham and Hampstead (Midland) line. Trams run along the High road, Seven Sisters’ road and Green Lanes in Tottenham. The High road is a handsome and spacious thoroughfare, extending from Stamford Hill to Edmonton, a distance of 2 ½ miles, the centre of the town being occupied by a large triangular inclosure called “The Green,” on which the may-pole was formerly reared, but now the site of the High Cross, and is the assumed scene of the “Tournament of Tottenham,” a mock encounter celebrated in a curious metrical satire of the Tudor period. The “Public Health Act, 1848” (11 and 12 Vict. c. 63), was applied to the whole parish Feb. 12, 1850, and it continued to be under the control of Tottenham Local Board of Health from that date until 1888, when the parish was divided by the “Tottenham Local Board (Division of District) Act,” and the district of Wood Green constituted under the control of a separate Local Board of 12 members. Under the provisions of the “Local Government Act, 1894’’ (56 and 57 Vict. c. 73), an Urban District Council of 15 members has been formed for the old Local Board area. The urban district is divided into five wards. The parish is lighted with gas by the Tottenham and Edmonton Company, from works in Willoughby lane, near Park station, and is chiefly supplied with water by the Urban District Council from their own wells and pumping works at the Hale and Longwater, with reservoirs with a capacity of 1,000,000 gallons, and tower tank at Downhills of 60,000 gallons, and partly by the East London Water Works Company and the New River Company. Wood Green district is supplied by the New River Company. Some portions of the parish are of considerable elevation, the water tower being very conspicuous.

The church of All Hallows, about a quarter of a mile west of the High road, is an edifice of brick and stone in the Gothic style, partly rebuilt and considerably enlarged in 1876—7, and now consists of chancel, clerestoried nave, aisles, transepts, north porch, a fine embattled south porch of the 15th century with parvise, vestries, and an embattled western tower covered with ivy, 60 feet in height and containing 8 bells, two of which were added by the parishioners in 1881 to the former peal of 6, recast by Philip Wightman, in 1696, from the original peal of 5, a sixth being then added; the vestry, or saints’ bell, dated 1663, was given to the parish by Humphrey Jackson esq. F.R.S. April 6, 1801; it was formerly the alarm bell of the garrison of Quebec, and was taken at the siege of that place in 1759, by General Townsend: the eastern part of the chancel is arcaded in stone, and has a vaulted ceiling of wood and plaster, delicately painted in colours: the east window and several others are memorials; the west window of the north aisle is now filled with glass formerly in the east window, with some additions: the font and pulpit are both individual gifts, and the metal lectern was the gift of a parishioner; a room over the south porch was occupied for forty years by Elizabeth Fleming, who died March 17, 1790, at the age of 100: the oldest tombstone in the church incloses a brass to Thomas Hymyngham, ob. 6 April, 1499; there are a number of mural monuments of considerable merit, including a fine monument of white marble to Mary (Wilcocks), wife of Sir Robert Barkham kt. ob. 7 Dec. 1644, with busts of both, and effigies of twelve children; there is also a memorial to Sir Ferdinando Heyborne or Richardson, gentleman of the Privy Chamber to Queen Elizabeth and James I. ob. 4 June, 1618, and to his wife, a daughter of Richard Candeler, ob. 24 June, 1619; in the south aisle is a monument, with kneeling effigies, to Richard Candeler, ob. 24 Oct. 1602, and to Eliza his wife, ob. 2 Jan. 1622: Margaret Lydia, wife of James Samuel C.E. and daughter of James Hogg, “The Ettrick Shepherd,” is buried in the churchyard, which was enlarged in 1792, but closed for interments, except in special cases, December 21, 1857: from ancient records it is ascertained that the church was given by David Bruce, King of Scotland, to the canons of the Holy Trinity, London, between the years 1135 and 1153; but Henry VIII. in the thirty-sixth year of his reign, gave the rectory and parish of Tottenham to the cathedral of St. Paul: there are 900 sittings, of which 450 are free. The register dates from the year 1558. The living is a vicarage, yearly value £900, with 90 acres of glebe, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul’s, and held since 1870 by the Rev. Alexander Wilson M.A. of King’s College, Aberdeen, and Prebendary of St. Paul’s. The first vicar mentioned in the history of Tottenham is Robert de Burton, 1327.

Christ Church, West Green, is an ecclesiastical parish, formed in 1889 out of the parishes of Holy Trinity, St. Michael’s and St. Anne’s, Stamford Hill. The church, in Stanmore road, is an edifice of brick with stone facings, in the Early English style, consisting of chancel, nave, aisles and a turret containing one bell: there are 700 sittings, 400 being free. The register dates from the year. The living is a vicarage, with £300 yearly endowment, in the gift of the vicar of Holy Trinity, and held since 1889 by the Rev. Henry Wase Whitfield, who resides at South Tottenham.

Holy Trinity is an ecclesiastical parish, formed December 10, 1844, out of All Hallows parish: the church, on Tottenham Green, consecrated May 26, 1830, was erected from designs by Mr. Savage, architect, at a cost of about £5,000, and is an edifice of brick in the Gothic style, consisting of chancel, nave, aisles and west porch, and has some stained windows: there are 800 sittings, 350 being free. The register dates from 1860. The living is a vicarage, yearly value £420, in the gift of the vicar of Tottenham, and held since 1865 by the Rev. William Charles Howell M.A. of Brasenose College, Oxford, who resides at South Tottenham.

Marlborough College Mission Church of St. Mary the Virgin, is an edifice of brick in the Early English style, consisting of chancel, nave, aisles, and a turret containing 2 bells: there are 720 sittings. The register dates from the year 1888. The living is a consolidated chapelry, assigned Nov. 23, 1888, gross yearly value £200, in the gift of the Bishop of London, and held since 1888 by the Rev. Edward Floyer Noel Smith M.A. of Trinity College, Oxford.

St. Paul’s is an ecclesiastical parish formed June 10, 1859, out of All Hallows’ parish. The church, in Park lane, consecrated in 1859, is a building of stone in the Gothic style from designs by Mr. William Mumford, architect, erected at a cost of about £2,000, and consists of chancel, nave, aisles, north and south porches, and an embattled tower with pinnacles at the north-west angle: there are 660 sittings, of which 200 are free. The register dates from the year 1859. The living is a perpetual curacy, net yearly value £160, with residence, in the gift of the vicar of Tottenham, and held since 1898 by the Rev. of The Catholic church, near White Hart lane, dedicated to S. Francis de Sales, built in the year 1895, from the designs of Messrs. Sinott, Sinott and Powell, of Liverpool, at a cost of £7,000, is an edifice of brick with stone facings, in the Early English style, and when completed will consist of chancel, nave and aisles: it contains a set of Stations of the Cross, carved in stone by Messrs. Boulton, of Cheltenham, and also an original painting of The Madonna, by Zuccarelli: there are 560 sittings. Adjoining is a convent of the Marists order, established in 1888, and in St. Ann’s road is a convent of the Servite order, established in 1871, with a chapel and school.

The Presbyterian church of St. John is in the High road; and there are Baptist chapels in the High road and West Green road, a Congregational church at the High Cross, Primitive Methodist chapels in Northumberland park and West green, and a Wesleyan chapel in the High road, erected in 1867. The Brethren and Christian Brethren have meeting rooms, and the Society of Friends a meeting house.

The Cemetery, consecrated December 30, 1857, and opened January 1, 1858, at a cost of £5,000, occupies 5 acres, of which two-thirds are consecrated and the remainder unconsecrated: it contains two chapels of Kentish Tag, with Bath stone dressings, in the Early Gothic style, for the Church of England and Nonconformists respectively: the ground is under the control of a burial board of nine members.

The High Cross, which gives its name to the southern end of the town, is an octagonal structure of brick, erected about 1600 by Dean Wood, in place of a wooden cross, then much decayed: the second stage is panelled with arches and quatrefoils; the third stage is surrounded with gabled and crocketed niches, and is surmounted by a crocketed spire with vane: the ornamental work is of stucco and was added in 1809, and the eight sides bear each on a shield one letter of the word “Totenham.” Seven Sisters’ road, formed in 1831—3, at a cost of £40,000, takes its name from seven elm trees formerly standing there; these having disappeared, seven new trees were planted near the site February 24, 1852, by the seven daughters of J. McRae esq. of Tottenham.

Charities:-In the High road are almshouses for four poor men and as many poor women, founded in 1600 by Balthazar Sanchez, or Zanchero, confectioner to Philip, King of Spain: near the High Cross are almshouses for four poor men and four poor women, built in 1736, on a site given by Lord Coleraine, under the provisions of the will of Nicholas Reynardson esq. dated 2nd April 1685: Pheasaunt’s or “the Pound” almshouses, situated in the High road, and believed to have been originally founded by George Hymyngham, who died in 1536, afterwards regranted by Mr. Pheasaunt, and further endowed by the will of Mr. Charles Saunders of this parish, dated 30th July, 1817, are for seven poor widows: in Bruce Grove are the Sailmakers' almshouses, a fine block of brick buildings, for 45 inmates, erected in 1869 by the Drapers’ Company, who are the trustees of this charity; and there are other almshouses, founded by Alderman Staines: the inmates of the Pound and Sanchez almshouses are supported from various charitable bequests under the control of the churchwardens. The general charities of the parish amount to about £242 yearly, and there are also various sums received as dividends on compensation money for waste lands, invested by order of the vestry and the Inclosure Commissioners, and amounting in all to about £224 yearly, which sum is applied to different parochial purposes.

Bruce Castle, near Bruce Grove station, is an Elizabethan mansion, probably rebuilt in 1514 by Sir William Compton, and again in the latter part of the 17th century. The original structure is said to have been erected by Earl Waltheof, who married Judith, niece of the Conqueror, and it subsequently descended, through the female line, to Robert Bruce, who, on his contention with Baliol for the right of succession to the Scottish throne being decided in favour of the latter, retired here, and after repairing the building named it “Le Bruses.” There, in 1516, Henry VIII. visited Sir William Compton, and met his sister Margaret, Queen of Scots; and Queen Elizabeth also appears to have come here on a visit to Henry, Lord Compton: the Comptons held the estate till 1630, and it was next held by the Hares, lords Coleraine, but in 1755 reverted to the Crown, and was granted to the Townsend family, and in 1827 was purchased by the father of Mr. afterwards Sir Rowland Hill kt. who, in conjunction with his sons, established a school here, which afterwards acquired considerable note, but was finally closed in 1891. The existing mansion, which stands in grounds of 20 acres, is of brick with stone dressings, and consists of a central block with semi-octagonal embayed wings, and a large square clock tower rising in the centre, with external balustraded galleries, and surmounted by an octagonal turret with cupola; the only remaining portion of the house erected by the Comptons is a detached tower of red brick covering a deep but disused well. The whole is now the property of the Urban District Council, and was opened in August, 1892, as a public recreation ground.

The Alexandra Palace is partly in this parish: particulars are given under Muswell Hill.

The Park ranges on the banks of the Lee near the Park railway station, are used by the volunteers of Middlesex, who shoot here up to 600 yards, and several prizes are contested for, among which is the Middlesex Battalion Challenge Cup, between selected teams of eight, and also the bronze medals of the National Rifle Association.

In the time of the Confessor the manor belonged to Waltheof, Earl of Huntingdon; Henry I. granted it to David, son of Malcolm III. King of Scotland, and it afterwards came into the hands of King Robert Bruce, who made Tottenham his residence: eventually it was granted by Henry VIII. with the church to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul’s, and is now held by Sir William Michael Curtis bart. of Caynham Court, Ludlow, Salop.

The parish now contains 3,010 acres of land, Wood Green civil parish having been formed from it in 1895.

Area of urban district and parish, 3,010 acres; rateable value, £271,770; the population in 1891 was 71,343. The population of the ecclesiastical parish in 1891 was:-All Hallows’ (parish church), 10,738; Christ Church, West Green, 6,110; Holy Trinity, 17,100; St. Mary the Virgin, 6,796, and St. Paid, 6,979.

Evangelical Protestant Deaconesses’ Institute & Training Hospital, The Green, established in 1867, has been considerably enlarged & a new wing for private patients added in 1886;it contains 100 beds;in 1893 the number of in-patients was 3,410, & 943 casualties; & of out-patients, 3,979; W. Overend M.A., M.D., B.Sc.

Places of Worship, with times of services

All Hallows Parish Church, Church lane, Rev. Prebendary Alexander Wilson M.A. vicar: Rev. William Starey M.A. Rev. J. Henry Watts M.A. Rev. John De Vitre B.A. curates; Rev. Odell Newton Tribe, assistant curate; 8 & 11 a.m. & 3.30 & 7 p.m.; daily 10.30 a.m. & 8 p.m.

Christ Church, Stanmore road, Rev. H. Wase Whitfeild, vicar; Rev. J. T. Hughes & Rev. R. F. Moore, curates; 11 a.m. & 7 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m. Ferns Chapel (by 641 High road) served by the clergy of All Hallows 11 a.m. & 7 p.m.

Holy Trinity Church, Tottenham green, Rev. William Charles Howell M.A. vicar; 11 a.m. & 3 & 6.30 p.m.; daily 10.30 a.m.; holy days 10.30 a.m. & 7.30 p.m.

St. Paul’s Church, Park lane, Rev. T. G. Baillie, curate in charge; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Marlboro' College Mission Church of St. Mary the Virgin, Lansdowne rd. Rev. Edwd. Floyer Noel Smith M.A. vicar; Rev. Arthur Robert Anderson M.A. & Rev. Roland d’Arcy Preston M.A. curates; 11 a.m. & 7 p.m.; daily 11 a.m. (except Wed.); Mon. & Thur. 4 p.m.; Tues. & Fri. 7.45 p.m.; Wed. & Sat. 8.30 p.m.

St. Francis de Sales Catholic, High road, Rev. Francis Bayly & Rev. John Wren, priests; 8, 9.30 & 11 a.m. & 3.30 & 6.30 p.m.; daily 7 & 8 a.m. & Wed. 7.30 p.m.

St. John’s Presbyterian Church, High road, Rev. David Fotheringham; 11 a.m. & 7 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Friends’ Meeting House, High road; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 10.30 a.m.

Baptist, High road, Rev. William Wilson Sidey; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 7.30 p.m.

Congregational, High cross, Rev. E. Stanley; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Christian Brethren’s Children’s Mission Room, Brook street; 6.30 p.m.

London City Mission Room (Tottenham High Cross road district), Charles Saveall, city missionary; 11 a.m. & 3 & 6.30 p.m.; Tues. 8 p.m.

Earlsmead Bible Christian Church, High road, Rev. John Mallett; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.; erected in 1886.

Primitive Methodist, Northumberland park, Rev. A. Sutcliffe; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Tues. 7.30 p.m. & Thur. 7.30 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, High road, Rev. William Oldfield; 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Thur. 7.30 p.m.

Salvation Army Citadel, High road, Tottenham.

Schools

The Grammar school, originally founded at an early but unascertained date, was enlarged & endowed under the will, dated 17th May, 1686, of Sarah, Dowager Duchess of Somerset, who died 25th October, 1692. having married on the decease of the duke in 1675, Henry, Lord Coleraine. In 1840 a new school room was erected at a cost of about £700, to hold 120 boys, & in 1876—7, a new scheme having been framed by the Charity Commissioners for the administration of the school, the premises were partly rebuilt & enlarged & the foundation reconstituted as a second-grade school; there are now about 160 boys, & the Income from the endowment is about £270 yearly. The Middlesex County Council makes a grant of £200 per annum for the advancement of technical education. The school is managed by a body of 11 governors, of which the Rev. Prebendary Wilson M.A. vicar of Tottenham, is chairman; John Thomas Cohen B.A.Lond. headmaster. The learned William Baxter, nephew of the celebrated Puritan divine, Richard Baxter, was headmaster here till about 1700, when he became master of the Mercers’ Company’s school.

St. Katharine’s college, established in 1878, for training schoolmistresses, in White Hart lane, erected in 1880, is a handsome building of red brick; the Rev. Edwin Hobson M.A. principal; Miss Lucy Gee, lady supt.

A School Board of 12 members was formed Nov. 14, 1879; John Frederick Adams, Coombes Croft house, High road, clerk to the board.

Board Schools.

Coleraine Park, built in 1881, for 462 boys, 375 girls & 500 infants; average attendance, 400 boys, 360 girls & 390 infants.

Downhills, Philip Lane (infants), Miss M. P. King, mistrss.

Page Green, built in 1882, for 372 boys, 372 girls & 421 infants; average attendance, 461 boys, 367 girls & 420 infants.

Page Green (mixed), built in 1886, for 409 children; average attendance, 325.

West Green (mixed & infants), built in 1886, for 436 boys, 416 girls & 400 infants; average attendance, 455 boys, 440 girls & 446 infants.

Church Road, built in 1891, for 600 boys, 305 girls & 400 infants; average attendance, 590 boys, girls, full & 377 infants.

Drapers’ Company Orphan (girls), Elmslea, Lordship lane; Miss Goodwin, lady superintendent All Hallows National (boys), Park lane, built in 1841, for 135 children; average attendance, 139.

Holy Trinity (infants), Green, built in 1847, for 106 children; average attendance, full.

St. Paul’s National, Park lane, for 184 girls & 131 infants; average attendance, 200 girls & 130 infants.

Catholic, High road (boys), built in 1881, for 130 boys; average attendance, 85.

Catholic (girls & infants), High road, built in 1881, for 130 girls & 100 infants; average attendance, 104 girls & 95 infants; (girls), Somerset road, built about 1864, for 171 children; average attendance, 170.

Conveyance

North London Tramway Co.’s tram cars pass through Tottenham daily.

Water Conveyance

Bishop’s Stortford, Sawbridgeworth, Ware &c. barges to & from London pass within half a mile of the town.