Morpeth, a pleasant well-built town, seated on the northern banks of the river Wansbeck, in a warm and sheltered vale, surrounded with a rich cultivated country, and, though without any considerable degree of trade, wears the appearance of opulence.

The market-place is conveniently situated near the centre of the town, though rather confined, considering the great resort to it. The market-cross is commodious, and was rebuilt in the year 1783, at the expence of the corporation; and, as the church is distant about a quarter of a mile from the town, a tower is built near the market-place, containing a good ring of bells.

in the year 1714 an elegant town-house was built here by the Carlisle family, in which their manorial court is held, and also the quarter sessions for the county; the structure is of hewn stone, with a piazza ornamented with rustic work, and the superstructure is decorated with turrets, in a very good taste.

Between the town-hall and the bridge is the County Gaol which is a modern and descent structure; and at the north end of the bridge is a small but neat chapel of modern erection, of white freestone and hewn work. At the west end of it is a grammar-school; an ancient building, which was founded by King Edward the Sixth, and endowed with the lands of two disolved chanteries in Morpeth, and one at Nether Witton.

The parochial church stands on the south side of the bridge, on a hill called Kirk Hill, in the West Park, and on the west side of the post road. One of the chanteries in it above-mentioned was founded in honour of the Blessed Virgin. It has three good aisles, a gallery at the west end, and another between the pillars of the north aisle, a vestry, and one bell. Opposite to the church is the rectory- house, which is a handsome new building.

The baronial castle, which is situated near the church, is in ruins, little remaining, except an old gateway tower, and part of the outward wall, which inclosed the area and interior buildings. It is placed on a lofty eminence, unassisted by art, the northern side being very steep, and washed by the river Wansbeck, and the southern secured by a deep valley. The tower has formerly had angular turrets at the north-east and south-east corners, with a communication by an open galley, which was supported by projecting corbules. It commands a fine prospect, overlooking the town of Morpeth, and the banks of the Wansbeck, where large tracts of woodland are beautifully disposed. Near this tower, towards the north-east, and on the other side of the valley, is a round mound of earth, on a natural mount, whose height is greatly increased by art, which appears to have been raised by assailants rather than as an outwork to the castle, it being perhaps cast up for an opposing fort and malvoisin, on some blockade. The tower was the work of William Lord Greystock, who lived in the time of Edward III. as appears by the escheats of that reign.

Morpeth is thought to have derived its name from More-path, or the road through the moor. It made no considerable figure under the Saxons and Danes; but under the first Normans it rose in dignity superior to a villa; being then erected into an honour, and styled the barony of Morpeth, or the barony of Merlay, from its possessors the lords Merlay; one of whom founded the abbey of Newminster, on the north side of the chapel of which he was interred, with his lady, and their son Osbert. The three last lords Merlay were all of them of the name of Roger; the first of whom, by paying to King John in the year 1199, a fine of twenty marks and two good palfreys, acquired for his borough of Morpeth a weekly market and an annual fair. He was interred at Newminster. The second Roger Lord Merlay, contributed greatly to the prosperity of his borough at Morpeth; he confirmed all its privileges: under his patronage and influence an hospital was founded at Catchburn. He was interred at the entrance of the priory church at Newminster. By the charter of the third Roger Lord Merlay, the burgesses of Morpeth, and their successors, were freed from all taxes, subsidies, or contributions, except on the king’s account in military expeditions, or for the public defence, or the marriage of the lord’s eldest son or daughter, or for his own redemption out of prison. By the same charter the prizes raised by his officers or servants, or those of his successors, on bread, beer, or other things, were assigned to the creditors within the borough to be paid within forty days, and in the mean time the lord was at liberty to make other prizes at his pleasure. Their accustomed common right of pasturage, and other conveniences, were confirmed to them and their successors, and way-leave granted to and from the town, corn-fields and meadows only excepted. He founded a chauntry in the parish church of Stannington, and was interred in the Newminster near the remains of his father.

The borough of Morpeth never sent members to parliament before the first year of Queen Mary’s reign, in the year 1553. It is a prescriptive borough, governed by two bailiffs and seven aldermen, annually elected out of the free burgesses, being inhabitants, and paying scot and lot; they are above 200 in number, and by these also the members of parliament are elected. The borough is however under the absolute control of the Earl of Carlisle.

Morpeth is situated 289 miles from London, and consists, according to the late returns, of 427 houses, and 2951 inhabitants, viz. 1342 males and 1609 females, of whom 689 were returned as being employed in trade and manufacture. It has a weekly market on Wednesdays, which is reckoned the largest in England for live cattle, except Smithfield. The town has likewise the privilege of two annual fairs, viz. on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday se’nnight before Whitsunday, and the Wednesday before July 22.

---

MORPERTH, anciently “Morepath” (the town by the track across the Moor), is a parliamentary and municipal borough, market and union town, and is the head of a petty sessional division and county court district, in the Wansbeck division of the county, west division of Morpeth ward, rural deanery of Morpeth, archdeaconry of Lindisfarne and diocese of Newcastle, and has stations at Stobhill on the North Eastern and Blyth and Tyne and North British lines of railway: its distance from London by the Great Northern railway is 291 ¼ miles, by Midland 320 ½, and 289 by road; 21 ¼ south from Alnwick, 50 ½ from Berwick-upon-Tweed, 16 ¾ north from Newcastle-upon-Tyne by railway and 15 by road, 135 ½ from Doncaster, 108 from Edinburgh, 142 ¾ from Huddersfield, 154 from Hull, 117 ½ from Leeds, 173 ¼ from Lincoln, 207 ¾ from Liverpool, 178 ¼ from Manchester, 215 ½ from Peterborough, 237 ½ from Rugby, 153 ¼ from Sheffield, 20 ¾ from Shields, 21 ¾ from Tynemouth, 128 ¼ from Wakefield and 100 ¾ from York.

Morpeth is seated in a beautiful and healthy valley in the midst of a rich agricultural district, and the immediate scenery by which it is surrounded, with its alternating hills and vales and spreading woods, is highly varied and picturesque. The river Wansbeck winds round the west, south and east sides of the town, and is crossed by five bridges, one of stone of three arches, another of two arches, an iron bridge and two of wood for pedestrians: the north part of the town is watered by a rivulet called the Cottingburn, which falls into the Wansbeck to the east, which abounds with fish.

Before the Norman accession, it was probably only an inconsiderable village, but was granted by the Conqueror to one of his followers, William de Merlay, and on the erection of the castle, of which he is the reputed founder, became a place of importance. Arms were granted to the town, 20 May, 1552, by William Hervey, Norroy, viz. “barry of six arg. and gules, over all a tower triple towered or; all within a bordure az. bearing 8 martlets of the third:” the appropriate motto of the borough is:-“Inter Sylvas et Flumina habitans.”

Morpeth is a borough by prescription, and received a charter of confirmation from Charles II. which was superseded by the Municipal Corporations Act, 1835, when the government was vested in a mayor, four aldermen and twelve councillors, with the usual assistant officers, under the style of “The Mayor and Burgesses of the Borough of Morpeth.” The sanitary arrangements of the town were under the management of a Local Board of nine members until November 9, 1889, when its duties were transferred to the Town Council, and at the same date the Municipal and Urban Sanitary areas were made co-extensive. Prior to the passing of the Reform Act of 1832, this borough had returned two members to Parliament from the year 1553; it now sends only one. The Boundary Act, 1868, defines the parliamentary borough, which comprises the several townships of Morpeth, Buller’s Green, Newminster Abbey, Catchburn-with-Morpeth Castle and Stobhill, Hepscott and Tranwell-with-Highchurch, the parish of Bedlington and the townships of Cowpen and Newsham. Morpeth confers the title of viscount upon the family of Howard, Earls of Carlisle.

The town has many handsome residences, some good shops and two convenient hotels, the “Queen’s Head” and the “Newcastle House,” as well as other respectable inns, and from its picturesque situation is frequented during the summer months by parties of pleasure from Newcastle, Alnwick and neighbouring places. It is paved, and lighted with gas by a company from works in Lower Stanners, and is supplied with water obtained from Tranwell, with a reservoir on Morpeth common.

The borough is watched by the county police.

The parish church of St. Mary, on Kirk hill, about a mile south of the town, is a plain edifice of stone, in the Decorated style of the 14th century, the lower portion of the tower showing traces of Norman work: the church consists of chancel, nave of five bays, aisles, south porch and a western tower containing 2 bells: the chancel, which has been well restored, has five stained windows, including a fine Jesse window, with fragments of ancient glass, and on the south side are triple canopied sedilia and a mutilated piscina: in the north wall is an aumbry, and on the north side of the chancel arch is a hagioscope: the east window of the south aisle contains figures of St. Blaize, Bishop of Sebaste, and St. Denis, bishop of Paris: the chancel seats and the pulpit are of carved oak: in 1890 a handsome carved oak chancel screen was erected as a memorial to the late Dr. Brumell, of Morpeth: there are sittings for 600 persons. Outside the church on the south are two stone effigies. The churchyard, entered by a lichgate, built in 1862, retains an ancient cross, now restored, and another, erected as a memorial to the Rev. J. Bolland, a former curate. The register dates from the year 1585. The living is a rectory, tithe rent-charge £147, gross yearly value £1,040, with residence, in the gift of the Earl of Carlisle, and held since 1890 by the Rev. Henry John Bulkeley M.A. of Lincoln College, Oxford.

The church of St. James the Great, a chapel of ease to St. Mary’s, in Newgate street, was erected in 1846, from designs by Mr. Benjamin Ferrey, architect, at a cost of £7,000, and is a cruciform building of stone in the Lombardic style, consisting of apsidal chancel, nave of five bays, aisles, transepts, north and south porches and a massive central tower containing one bell: the arcades of the nave are carried on clustered columns, and the piers supporting the tower have two fine Norman arches: the chancel window and several others are stained and the apse has been painted in fresco: in the south transept is a memorial window to George Nelson, of Loansdale, in this parish; Mary (Wray), his wife, and six of their children: below is a brass, with inscription recording its erection in 1850 by George Henry Wray, Harriet (Wray), wife of Alexander Russell and William Row, the great-nephews and niece of the first-named George Nelson. At the entrance to the church in Newgate street is a stone screen of five arches, with double columns of granite; the upper portion is handsomely carved, and is surmounted by a cross; on the iron gates below is a plate recording its erection by public subscription to the memory of the Rev. the Hon. Francis Richard Grey M.A. rector here, 1842-90; there is also in the church a tablet to himself and his wife: the church is served by the clergy of St. Mary’s.

The Catholic church, dedicated to St. Robert, in Oldgata street, was erected in 1849, at a cost of £2,400, and is an edifice of stone, in the Early English style, consisting of chancel, nave and a tower at the south-west angle, with an octagonal spire, 109 feet high: the base of the tower forms a porch, St. George’s Presbyterian church, at the foot of the bridge facing Bridge street, was erected in 1860, from designs by Mr. M. Thompson, architect, of Newcastle, at a cost of £3,500, and is a cruciform edifice of stone in the Early English style, consisting of nave, aisles, transepts and a lofty tower with spire, containing an illuminated clock, presented by Mrs. Hollon, of York, a native of this town: there is a gallery for school children behind the pulpit: the interior is fitted with open seats for 650 persons: the old chapel in the Cottingwood road is now used as a boys’ school: there is an endowment, amounting to about £6 yearly, for the repair of the manse: the late minister, Dr. Anderson, and the late Mrs. Kent each left £100, the interest of which is annually distributed among the poor of the congregation.

The Primitive Methodist chapel, in Manchester street, erected in 1872, is a building of brick with stone dressings, and has 200 sittings, The Congregational chapel, in King street, was erected in 1829, and is a building of stone, seating 300 persons.

The Wesleyan chapel, in Manchester street, erected in 1883-4, from designs by Messrs. J. Oswald and Son, architects, of Newcastle, at a cost of £1,600, occupies the site of the former chapel and is a building of stone in the Gothic style of the 15th century: in the basement is a school room, with class room and a large vestry: there are sittings for 360 persons.

The Town Hall, erected in 1869-70, at the cost of the Earl of Carlisle, lord of the manor, from the plans of Mr. R. Johnson, architect, Newcastle, replaces a former one designed by Sir John Vanbrugh, but its facade is an exact reproduction of that of the old building; on the ground floor is a butter, egg and poultry market, and on the upper floor, the Town Hall proper, which has been finished in an elegant and substantial style, the fittings being of oak, and the window-jambs and mantelpiece of Caen stone, richly carved; the hall will hold upwards of 300 persons: on the ground floor, behind the western half of the butter market, is a large and commodious Corn Exchange, and over it are apartments used as a reading-room and library by the members of the Mechanics’ Institution; adjoining these is a chamber, in which the town council, local board of health and other public bodies hold their meetings: the second floor is reached by a spacious staircase, on which is placed a marble bust of George W. F. Howard, 7th earl of Carlisle and Viscount Morpeth K.G. executed by Mr. J. H. Foley, and subscribed for by the inhabitants of Morpeth; on the wall adjoining is a brass, bearing a dedicatory inscription. The municipal insignia include a silver mace, presented in 1604 by Lord William Howard (“Belted Will”) and the Lady Elizabeth (Dacre), his wife; it is 2 feet 2 ½ inches long, and has a shaft encircled by three knops; the head has no crown, but is surrounded by a cresting of 30 fleurs-de-lis, under which runs a fillet with an inscription recording the gift, and the motto “Voleo non Valeo;” round the side of the head are arranged the heraldic shields of Howard, Brotherton, Mowbray, Warren, Dacre, Greystoke, Merlay and Grimthorpe, and on the flat top are the royal arms of the Stuarts. The Corporation also possess a splendid fluted silver monteith or punch bowl, made at Newcastle in 1712; it is nearly 12 inches wide and 8 high, and has ring handles. The town hutch or muniment chest of oak dates from the reign of Hen. VIII.; it is strongly banded with iron, and originally had seven padlocks, of which four exist; the earliest deeds possessed by the Corporation bear date 1266; the ancient branks or bridle of iron, for the punishment of evil speakers, are also preserved.

Her Majesty’s prison, a castellated structure, on the south side of the river Wansbeck, built in 1821-8, at a cost of £80,000, has now, with the exception of the line gate tower been pulled down; the tower continues to be used for petty sessional purposes and the chief constable’s offices; a new police station has also been erected on the site.

The Mechanics’ Institution, instituted in 1825, has a library of about 4,000 volumes, and is supplied with daily and weekly newspapers and periodicals. In 1871 the Barony of Morpeth, in memory of the 7th earl of Carlisle, who was for many years its patron, presented it with 75 volumes of valuable and costly works in science and art, and a large telescope and microscope; among the books were a unique collection of the original editions of works written by authors who were natives of Morpeth, including Turner’s Herbal (black letter), published in the year 1551; and an earlier work by the same author (also in black letter), published in 1540.

The C troop of the Northumberland Hussars Yeomanry Cavalry and the B Co. of the 1st Volunteer Battalion Northumberland Fusiliers are stationed here.

The chantry of All Saints, situated near the bridge, was built before the year 1300, a licence having been granted at that date by John de Greystock to Richard de Morepath to found a chantry in the chapel, built in honour of All Saints. The chaplaincy was in the patronage of the burgesses and commonalty of Morpeth, who on 17th May, 1310, granted it to Adam, called the “Rose of Morpeth,” for the term of his life, on condition of his performing service in it for the good of the souls of their predecessors and of the benefactors of the bridge and chapel. The chantry was endowed with the tolls from the bridge and other property; the building is now partly divided into shops, and otherwise used as a mineral water factory.

Messrs. Woods and Co. Lambton and Co. Hodgkin Burnett and Co. and the North Eastern Banking Co. Limited have banking establishments here, and there is a savings bank.

Brewing and brick and tile making are carried on, and there are iron and brass foundries, agricultural implement manufactories, saw mills, corn mills, and in the vicinity are collieries and stone quarries and a woollen factory.

The weekly market is held on Wednesday, and is well supplied with corn, butchers’ meat, vegetables, butter, eggs and poultry, and fairs are held on the first Wednesday in May and November. Cattle and horse fairs are held on the 25th of March and on the 25th of October.

Races are held in April annually, on a course at Morpeth common, on the south side of the town.

Near the market place, in Oldgate street, is a stone tower, originally built as a jail, and containing a clock and a peal of bells: an inscription on the bells records that they were given to the Corporation of Morpeth by Major-Gen. Edmond Main M.P. for Morpeth in 1705; there is a tradition that the clock was brought from Bothal Castle: in 1887 the tower was restored and the bells rehung: the basement of the tower was used as the town lock-up until 1802; the fire engine is now kept here: in this tower is preserved a rope of special make, formerly used to tether the bull to a huge ring fixed in the ground on occasions of bull-baiting in the Market place.

The Dispensary, in Union place, was established in 1816, and is supported by subscription; the number of patients in 1892 was 517.

The almshouses (formerly the workhouse) are situated in Cottingwood lane. The charities for distribution in money amount to £3 17s. 6d.

Among the distinguished natives of Morpeth were Robert Morrison D.D., F.R.S. the celebrated Chinese scholar and missionary, and author of a Chinese dictionary, born at Wingates near here, 5 January, 1782; William Turner M.D. and Dean of Wells, the earliest English writer on botany, born here about 1515 and died in 1568; Thomas Gibson, author of the first English Concordance to the New Testament, and a botanist and herbalist, M.B. Camb. in 1511, d. 1562.

The lordship of Morpeth was granted by the Conqueror to one of his followers, William de Merlay, whose descendants continued to hold it till the reign of Hen. III when by the marriage of Mary, eldest daughter and co-heir of Roger de Merlay, with William de Greystock, it passed to that family, until Elizabeth, daughter of Ralph, 7th baron Greystock, transferred it to the Dacres by her marriage in the 15th century with Thomas, 2nd Baron Dacre, of Gillesland; eventually, Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas, 4th Baron Dacre, married in the 16th century Lord William Howard, Warden of the Western Marches, and commonly known as “Belted Will,” and the manor thus descended to this branch of the Howard family, of whom Charles Howard was created (30 April, 1661) Baron Dacre of Gillesland, Viscount Howard of Morpeth and Earl of Carlisle, and was the ancestor of the present Earl of Carlisle, who is lord of the manor.

The area of the township of Morpeth is 532 acres; rateable value, £18,463; the population in 1891 was 5,841 (which includes 116 officers and inmates in the workhouse and 626 in the County Lunatic Asylum), of the parliamentary borough, 40,235, and of the municipal borough, 5,219.

Parish Clerk, George Edgell.

Petty Sessions are held at the Court-house the first & third Wednesday in every month, at 11 a.m. The following places are included in the Petty Sessional division:-Angerton High, Angerton Low, Ashington & Sheepwash, Bebside, Bedlington, Belsay, Benridge, Bigge’s Quarter, South Blyth & Newsham, Bockenfield, Bolam, Bolam Vicarage, Bothal Demesne, Bradford, Brinkburn South Side, Brockenfield, Bullers Green, Bullock Hall, Cambo, Causey Park, Chevington East, Chevington West, Coatyards, Cockle Park, Corridge, Cowpen, Cresswell, Deanham, Earsdon, Earsdon Forest, Edington, Ellington, Eschott, Ewesley, Fenrother, Freeholder’s Quarter, Gallowhill, Hadstone, Harnham, Hartburn, Hartburn Grange, Hartford East, Hartford West, Healey & Comb Hill, Hebron, Hepscott, Highlaws, Highlaws High & Low, Horton, Hurst, Linmouth, Longhurst, Longahaw, Longwitton, Meldron, Middleton North, Middleton South, Mitford, Molesdon, Morpeth, Morpeth Castle, Catchburn, Stobhill & Parkhouses, Newbiggin-by-the-Sea, Netherwitton, Newham, Newminster Abbey, Newton Park, Newton Underwood, Nunnykirk, Nunriding, Ogle, Old Moor, Pegswood, Pigdon, Riddells Quarter, Riplington, Ritton Colt Park, Ritton White House, River Green, North Seaton, Shaftoe East, Shaftoe West, Shilvington, Shothaugh, Shortflatt, Spittal Hill, Stanton, Thirston, Thornton East, Thornton West, Thropple, Todburn, Todridge, Tranwell & High Church, Trewick, Tritlington, Twizle, Ulgham, Wallington Demesne, Wbalton, Whitridge, Widrington, Wingates, Witton Shields, Woodhorn, Woodhorn Demesne.

Morpeth Union

Board day, every alternate Wednesday, at the Workhouse, at 11 a.m.

The following places are comprised within the Union: Angerton (High), Angerton (Low), Ashington & Sheepwash, Bedlington, Benridge, Biggis Quarter, Bockenfield, Bothal Demesne, Bullocks Hall, Cambo, Causey Park, Chevington (East), Chevington (West), Cockle Park, Corridge, Cresswell, Deanham, Earsdon, Earsdon Forest, Edington, Ellington, Eshot, Fenrother, Freeholder’s Quarter, Hadstone, Hartburn, Hartburn Grange, Hebron, Hepscott, Highlaws, Highlaws (High & Low), Hirst, Linmouth, Longhirst, Longshaws, Long Witton, Meldon, Middleton (North), Middleton (South), Mitford, Molesden, Morpeth, Morpeth Castle, Netherwitton, Newbiggin, Newminster Abbey, Newton Park, Newton Underwood, North Seaton, Nunriding, Old Moor, Pegswood, Pigdon, Riddell’s Quarter, River Green, Spital Hill, Stanton, Thirston, Thornton (East), Thornton (West), Throphill, Todridge, Tranwell & High Church, Tritlington, Ulgham, Wallington Demesne, Whitridge, Widdrington, Witton Shields, Woodhorn, Woodhorn Demesne.

The population of the union in 1891 was 42,319; area, 97,515 acres; rateable value in 1893, £227,664.

Places of Worship, with times of Services

Parish Church (St. Mary), Rev. Henry John Bulkeley M.A. rector; Rev. Herbert Bott M.A. & Rev. Edward S. Stebbing B.A. curates; 10.30 a.m.

St. James the Great Church, Newgate street, clergy the same as above; 8 & 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.

St. Robert of Newminster, Catholic, Oldgate; Rev. John Stuart & Rev. Plasid O’Hear, priests; mass 8.30 & 10.30 a.m.; holidays of obligation, mass 8.30 a.m. & evening service 6 p.m.

St. George’s Presbyterian, Bridge street, Rev. A. H. Drysdale M.A.; 11 a m, & 6 p.m.

Congregational, King street, Rev. David Young B.A.; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.

Primitive Methodist, Manchester st. Rev. Francis Richardson; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, Manchester street, Rev. John W. Keyworth; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.

Schools

The Grammar school, formerly held in an old chapel in Chantry place, was founded by King Edward VI. in 1552, but at the beginning of the 18th century was made the subject of a Chancery suit, which after lasting 150 years was terminated in 1856, & the school was re-opened Feb. 2nd, 1857. In 1858 school buildings were erected from designs by Mr. Benjamin Ferrey, architect, on a healthy site overlooking the town, & in 1889 a new school room was built at a cost of £800: adjoining the school is a playground of nearly 4 acres. The governors supply a sum of £100 yearly in maintaining scholarships tenable at the school by boys residing in the Parliamentary borough of Morpeth: they also apply a sum of £90 yearly in maintaining three Exhibitions, each of the value of £30 yearly, tenable at one of the Universities of the United Kingdom, or the Newcastle-on-Tyne College of Physical Science, or any place of higher education appointed by the governors, & to be competed for by boys who are being, & have for not less than 2 years been educated at the school. Charles (Howard) 3rd Earl of Carlisle (d. 1 May, 1738) & William, 4th Baron Widdrington (d. 1743), were both educated here. The school is managed by a body of 14 governors; & there are now (1894) 103 boys; George Brumell, clerk Borough Girls’, Well way, built in 1837, for 400 children; average attendance, 160.

Borough Infants’, Well way, built in 1837, for 200 children; average attendance, 144.

St. James’s, Newgate street (mixed & infants’), built in 1844, for 330 children; average attendance, 180.

St. Robert’s Catholic, Oldgate, built in 1850, for 130 children; average attendance, 110.

Free School, Cottingwood road (mixed), used a school from 1860, for 225 children; average attendance, 170.