Shepton-Mallet is a populous market-town, situated five miles east of the city of Wells, twelve south-east from Frome, and sixteen from Bath, in a low valley, in the hundred of Whitstone. This place has long been famous for its manufacture of woollen cloth and nit stockings. The Church stands on the east side of the market-place, and is a very large and handsome edifice, in form of a cross, having a tower at the west end, surmounted by a spire. There are also several places of worship for dissenters.

The Market-Cross is a curious structure, consisting of five arches, supported by pentagonal columns, erected in the year 1500, and lands of considerable value have been bequeathed for its support.

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SHEPTON MALLET is a manufacturing and market and union town and head of a petty sessional division, to the south-east of the Mendip Hills, with stations on the Wells and East Somerset branch of the Great Western railway and on the Somerset and Dorset joint railway, and is 5 miles east-south-east from Wells, 17 south-southwest from Bath, 20 south from Bristol and 116 by road and 129 by rail from London, in the Eastern division of the county, hundred of Whitestone, county court district of Wells, rural deanery of Shepton Mallet, archdeaconry of Wells and diocese of Bath and Wells.

The Wells and East Somerset line, which leaves the Wilts and Somerset line at Witham Friary and is leased in perpetuity by the Great Western railway, was opened for traffic in 1858, and the continuation to Wells, 5 miles in length, in 1862. The Somerset and Dorset joint line of the Midland and London and South Western railways was opened on the 1st August, 1874, forming a junction at Evercreech and giving direct communication between Bournemouth and the West of England.

The town, formerly governed by a Local Board under the Act 39 and 40 (1876) Vict. c. 161, is now, under the provisions of the “Local Government Act, 1894” (56 and 57 Vict. c. 73), controlled by an Urban District Council of 15 members; it consists of about ten streets, but the parish includes also the suburbs of Bowlish, Cannard's Grave, Charlton, Darshill, Draycot, Kilver Street and West Shepton and most of the large village of Oakhill; it lies on the side of a valley, crossed by the principal street from north to south: it is lighted with gas, supplied by a company since 1856.

The water works, belonging to the Shepton Mallet Water Works Co. and constructed in 1890, yield a copious supply of pure water obtained from the deep-seated springs of the old red sandstone of the Mendips, which is conveyed in iron pipes from Winsor Hill Mill and Yelling Mill to a large reservoir at Lower Downside, and thence distributed over the town; the height of the reservoir being sufficient to force the water to the top of the highest buildings in the town. An extension of the system, intended to provide an additional supply from springs under the Beacon Hill, was carried out in 1897. The church of SS. Peter and Paul, originally cruciform, is a large and ancient building of stone, in the Transition Norman and Perpendicular styles, consisting of chancel, clerestoried nave of six bays, aisles, north and south porches, sacristy of two stories, with stair turret and a western tower with open traceried parapet and pinnacles, containing a clock and 8 bells: in the chancel is a beautiful double piscina of the 13th century: the roof is of oak constructed in 350 exquisitely varied panels, and enriched with figures of angels holding shields, some of which are charged with emblems of The Passion; the pulpit, of stone beautifully sculptured, dates from the 15th century: the east and west windows are stained, the latter being a memorial to the Rev. William Provis Trelawny Wickham M.A. rector from 1834: in the church are brasses with effigies to William Strode esq. of Barrington, ob. 1649, the figure being in armour, and to Joan (Barnard) his wife and 9 children, and two recumbent stone figures of Knight Templars; there are also monuments to the Strode and Barnard families and others; over the western doorway are 3 niches containing figures of our Lord, St. Peter and St. Paul: the lower stage of the tower is fan vaulted: the aisles were rebuilt and widened in 1837, at a cost of £3,075: in 1851 the chancel was rebuilt and a vestry erected at the east end of the south aisle and parts of the church were restored; in 1881—2 the clerestory windows were taken out and new ones inserted at a cost of £136 and the organ restored at an expense of £136; in 1888 the church was reseated with open benches of Canadian oak and refloored; the chancel has been raised, the old reredos removed and replaced by tapestry hangings; the work was carried out under the direction of J. D. Sedding esq. diocesan architect, at a cost of £1,215: there are 1,180 sittings, 500 being free. The register dates from the year 1635. The living is a rectory, net yearly value £504, including 6 acres of glebe, with residence; there is also a small rectorial manor belonging to the living, which is in the alternate gift of H.R.H, the Duke of Cornwall and York K.G. and R. L. Jones esq. and held since 1887 by the Rev. Robert Landemann Jones B.A. of Queen’s College, Oxford, and chaplain to the Shepton Mallet union and H.M. Prison.

The Catholic church, at West Shepton, on the south side of the town, dedicated to St. Michael, and erected in 1804, is a building of stone in the Gothic style, consisting of chancel and nave, and has 300 sittings; there is a residence attached for the priest.

The Congregational chapel, in Commercial road, built in 1801, and enlarged in 1814, at a cost of about £900; in 1877 it was reseated, the interior restored and a new gallery erected at a cost of £1,300: it will seat 500 persons.

The Baptist chapel, in Garston street, is a small building erected in 1875, and will seat 200 persons.

The Baptist chapel, in Commercial road, built in 1881, is a plain structure and has 400 sittings.

The Wesleyan Mission chapel, Downside, erected in 1892, will seat about 60 persons.

The Wesleyan chapel, in Paul street, erected in 1819, has sittings for 700 persons.

The Unitarian chapel, in Cowl street, built in 1692 and enlarged in 1785, has since undergone considerable repairs: it contains a finely carved oak pulpit, with canopy, and some ancient memorial tablets, including one to the Rev. Simon Browne, ob. 1732, a distinguished Nonconformist divine, and another to the Rev. Anthony Atkey, ob. 1734, both of whom officiated here; there is a brass to William Hislop, ob. 1728: in 1886 the chapel was reseated with open benches, the floor relaid with deal, an organ placed in the gallery and a school added in the rear, for 150 children, at a cost of £370: there are 250 sittings: attached to the chapel is a burial ground: the chapel is endowed with the rents of estates at Baltonsborough and interest of money in the funds.

The Cemetery, in the Waterloo road, was formed in 1856, and now occupies about 7 acres of ground, a portion being reserved for Catholics; there are two mortuary chapels, in the Gothic style of the 14th century: the Burial Board consists of nine members.

The Urban Council Offices and Technical Buildings, in the Market place, were erected in 1894, at a cost of £3,100, the County Council for Somerset granting a sum of £500 in aid of the Technical part; in 1900 a large ante-room to the hall, a museum and an art room were added; the basement is designed for use as a carpenters workshop, a laundry and for other purposes; the ground floor comprises a council hall, ante-room and caretaker’s residence; on the first floor is a council chamber for the Urban and Rural District Councils, clerks’ office, committee room, surveyor’s office and the second floor comprises a laboratory, science class room, two art rooms and a cookery room, and is under the control of the Technical Education Committee.

The Hall, in Paul street, erected in 1861, and rebuilt and enlarged in 1892, will hold 600 persons: it is let for concerts and public meetings, is licensed for theatricals and contains an organ, provided in 1888.

The Divisional Court House, in Commercial road, is a building in the Elizabethan style, erected in 1857, and consists of a magistrate’s court and retiring room, a waiting-room for witnesses, added in 1889, police station with residences for the sergeant and constables and three cells.

H.M. Prison, in Cornhill, for felons, misdemeanants and debtors for the whole eastern half of the county, is a large and compact building, capable of containing about 200 prisoners: the system of separate confinement and industrial occupation is carried out, the prisoners being employed in weaving cotton sheeting (for other prisons), mail bag making for the Postal authorities, hammock making for the Admiralty, bolsters for the War Office, wood chopping, picking oakum and stone-breaking: the chapel, erected in 1849, contains an excellent organ; the building is heated throughout with hot water and new quarters have been erected for the warders outside the prison; the Rev. R. L. Jones B.A. is chaplain.

Shepton Mallet and District Constitutional Club, in High street, was rebuilt in 1892, at the sole cost of the late John Maitland Spencer esq. and comprises reading, writing, committee and billiard rooms, a library of 5,000 volumes, and a skittle alley, and there is also a residence for a caretaker.

The Shepton Mallet and District Liberal Club, in Town street, erected in 1892, at the sole cost of Frederick Spencer esq. is an edifice of brick, with Bath stone dressings, containing a large public room, billiard room, reading room, well supplied with papers and periodicals, and a library of 1,000 volumes.

The chief hotels are “The Hare and Hounds,” “The George” and “The Bell.”

So early as the 14th century, Shepton Mallet was a place of considerable commercial importance. In 1790 more than 4,000 hands were employed in the cloth trade and the place was noted for the manufacture of West of England cloth. The introduction of the manufacture of knitted stockings, in which above 400 hands were once employed, added considerably to the industry of the place; the trade of the town, which has since undergone great vicissitudes, has of late years been steadily recovering. The manufacture of silk, velvet and crape is carried on to some extent, but the chief trade of the town is at present centred in its breweries. The Anglo-Bavarian Brewery, in Commercial road, near the centre of the town, was built in 1862, and purchased by the limited company (who removed from Southampton) in 1872; it has been considerably enlarged and now covers about 8 acres of ground, and has an extensive home and bottling trade. The water used at this brewery is obtained from a spring of exceptional purity, discovered by the aid of a divining rod, and the water is pumped by electric power into tanks on the premises. During the excavations for the foundation of the brewery, a Roman Pottery was discovered which for a long time was carefully preserved, but alterations have necessitated its removal. At Charlton is the ancient and extensive brewery of Messrs. Berryman, Burnell and Co. Limited. Rope making and stone quarrying and the manufacture of lime and plaster are carried on in the town.

The Mendip Granite and Asphalte Works are carried on both at Winsor Hill in this parish and at West Cranmore; the stone called the “Black Rock stone” is celebrated for its durability and is largely used for road mAking throughout the kingdom: the rubble made from the stone binds well, and is largely used for carriage drives, side walks &c. The asphalte is made by special machine process and is very cheap. Lime is burnt from the carboniferous strata. The Downside Granite Quarries are also at Winsor Hill, and to these a new siding has been made from the Great Western railway station.

Stuckey’s Bank, erected in 1861, at the corner of High street and Paul street, is a good building of stone. The branch of the Wilts and Dorset Bank in High street and facing the Market place, was erected in 1877, and is a fine building of stone in the Italian style.

There are two or three excellent benefit societies, including a Permanent Benefit Building Society, established in 1853. The Shepton Mallet and East Mendip Friendly Society was established in 1842; the meetings are held at the National Schoolrooms, Waterloo road. The Freemasons’ lodge, “Love and Honour,” No. 285, holds its meetings monthly at the George hotel; a Druids’ lodge meets at the Bell inn. The Ancient Order of Foresters holds its meetings monthly at the York House inn, Waterloo road. The Ancient Order of Shepherds holds meetings at the Hall, in Paul street and the Independent Order of Odd Fellows (M. U.) at the Bunch of Grapes inn.

The “Shepton Mallet Journal, City of Wells Reporter, and County Advertiser” is issued every Thursday evening for Friday mornings from the press of Messrs. Byrt and Son, and has an extensive and increasing circulation throughout the county.

The premises in which the extensive printing, stationery and bookbinding works of Messrs. Byrt and Son are now carried on occupy two houses in the High street and buildings in Commercial road, which together cover a large area.

In 1886 the Anglo-Bavarian Brewery Limited established a fire brigade with manual engine, which in 1889 was reorganized by J. W. Garton esq. and a powerulf steam fire engine with appliances and 4,000 feet of hose purchased. The brigade, which has carried off most of the leading prizes at competitions in the south and west of England, consists of a captain, one lieutenant, secretary and 15 firemen; the fire station is at the brewery.

The earliest account of a market here is on the Close Rolls, 19 Hen. III. (1234—5), when the right to hold one was granted to Hugh de Vivon, then lord of this manor; other grants were issued in the same reign, and in 11 Edward II. a charter for a market was granted to Reginald FitzReginald. The Market place is very spacious and constitutes an important feature of the town. Its area was practically increased in 1889 by the gift to the town, by Robert Norton esq. of Shepton Mallet, of 3 cottages, the sites of which have been cleared and thrown open to the market place. The market is held on Friday for the sale of meat, butter, eggs, poultry, vegetables and general produce. The Market Cross, a fine structure, originally erected in 1500, and restored and modified in 1841, consists of an hexagonal structure with open arches and crocketed pinnacles, rising above a traceried parapet enriched by smaller pinnacles; in the centre, supported on a basement of three steps, rises a lofty spirelet, arranged in three stages and reaching a height of 51 feet: each division has canopied niches and crocketed pinnacles at the angles, and the whole terminates in a cross: on the building is a brass plate bearing the following inscription: —

Of yor charitye pray for

the soules of Walter Buklond and Hbnys bys wyff

wh whoys goods this crosse was made

in the yere of our Lord God M.D.

whoys obytt sbal be kepte for ever

in the parisshe churche of Sbepton Mallett

ye rrviiii. day of November

on whoys soules +bu pardon.

A cattle show is held here yearly, in the early part of September; a repository cattle sale is held every alternate Friday by Messrs. Wainwright and Laver, auctioneers, of this town, who also hold extensive calf sales during the season.

A fair formerly held annually at Kilver Street, on the 8th of August, is now obsolete.

The 15th Somerset Rifle Volunteer Corps was raised here April 11, 1860, and is now the E Company 3rd Volunteer Battalion, Prince Albert’s Somersetshire Light Infantry; the head quarters are in Commercial road.

The Shepton Mallet District Hospital, established in 1869, stands at the corner of Princes road and Waterloo road, on the main road leading from Shepton Mallet to Bath and Bristol, and is an edifice of stone in the Gothic style, erected in 1879, at a cost of £3,350, under the direction of Mr. G. J, Skipper, architect, of Norwich. The hospital occupies an area of one acre and a quarter, and comprises on the ground floor, a medical ward with four beds, surgical ward, with two beds (for males only), convalescent and nurses’ room; there are also a surgery and operating rooms; on the first floor are similar wards to those on the ground floor for females only. An extension of the children’s ward, and improved quarters for the staff were added in 1892. The hospital is maintained from a sum of £4,200 in Somerset County Stock, annual subscriptions, collections in churches and chapels and sundry receipts. The Jane ward is specially maintained from the rent of a piece of land given by Samuel Craddock esq. The hospital is managed by a committee selected from subscribers.

Strode’s Almshouses, on the south side of the churchyard, were founded in 1699 by Edward Strode esq. for the use of four poor old men who have not received parochial relief; this charity is endowed with £220 yearly. Four more almshouses were built in 1861 adjoining these. There are about eleven other charities, distributed at different periods of the year; the yearly income of the whole amounts to about £500, of which £200 is distributed in money and kind.

Mrs. Wickham’s Almshouses.-Mrs. Mary Anne Wickham, widow of the Rev. William Trelawny Wickham M.A. formerly rector of Shepton Mallet, gave and bequeathed by her will dated 21st August, 1862, a certain sum of money to trustees to be applied in building four almshouses on ground which she had purchased for that purpose in her lifetime. The almshouses are for four poor widows appointed from time to time by the Feoffees of Strode’s School and Almshouses Charities founded by George and William Strode. Each widow receives 3s. 6d. per week from Strode’s school charity and a further sum under Mrs. Wickham’s will.

The cricket field, near the G. W. railway station, was presented to the town by deed of gift of the late R. Norton esq. J.P. by which he settled his interest in the lease for 10 years from 1899, and also gave the sum of £250 and the pavilion and shelters upon the land, to be used at the discretion of the trustees. The swimming baths were taken over, enlarged and refitted in 1900, by the Urban Council, at a cost of £70.

In 1685, James, Duke of Monmouth and his troops paid two visits to the town, and it was here that his contemplated attack on Bristol was first made known: twelve persons who had joined his cause were executed in the market place, by order of Judge Jeffreys: Monmouth himself, it is said, passed at least one night at Longbridge House.

Previous to the Conquest, Shepton Mallet, then known as Sepeton, had been in possession of the Abbots of Glastonbury for 400 years: the manor afterwards passed from Roger de Curcelle, a Norman of noble family, to a baron of the name of Malet or Mallet, and this family is believed to have retained possession of it till the time of King John, in whose reign William Mallet, who resided in his strong castle at Curry Mallet, confederating with the rebellious barons against the king, forfeited all his estates to the Crown: he was afterwards forgiven, and his sons-in-law were permitted to retain the property on payment of a fine: the property passed by purchase to Sir Thomas Goumay, but after a succession of grants and reversions the manor reverted again to the Crown in 1536, and was granted to Edward, Duke of Cornwall, afterwards Edward VI.: the manor has since descended in regular succession, and is held at the present time by H.R.H, the Duke of Cornwall and York K.G. for whom courts are held here.

A Roman or fosse road passes through Shepton Mallet from Ilchester to Bath, and is intersected by the Great Western and Somerset and Dorset railways, during the construction of which the foundations of a house, exhibiting herring-bone work, were discovered; fragments of a great variety of earthenware vessels, a pot containing silver coins, a number of fibulae, amulets, rings, hairpins, keys and a bell, all of bronze, and a horse’s bit of iron were found near the ruins of the house, as well as a large number of bronze coins ranging from Claudius A.D. 41 to Magnentius A.D. 353: these interesting remains now belong to Mr. John Phillis, 31 High street, and together with a fine collection of fossils obtained in the neighbourhood, have been transferred to the museum, at the Council offices, which is open daily to the public.

Charlton House is the residence of Lieut.-Col. Robert Mildmay Clerk J.P., C.A.

The area of the parish of Shepton Mallet is 3,271 acres; rateable value, £25,091; the population in 1891 was 5,500, including 6 officers and 131 inmates of the Workhouse, 61 in H.M. Prison and 15 in the District Hospital, and in 901 was 5,238.

By Local Government Order 16,336, March 24, 1884, a malt house at Charlton Brewery was transferred from Doulting to Shepton Mallet; and Order 16,335, March 24, 1884, Whitstone Farm was added to Doulting from Shepton Mallet and Bridge Farm transferred to Pylle; under the provisions of the “Divided Parishes Act, 1882,” a detached part of Pilton, including Society House, was transferred to Shepton Mallet.

CHARLTON, DARSHILL (Upper and Lower), DOWNSIDE, DRAYCOT, KLLVER STREET and WEST SHEPTON are in this parish.

At KILVER STREET are Church of England schools, erected in 1876 and licensed for divine service, which is-held once every Sunday.

Petty Sessions held at the Court House every alternate Friday & on every Tuesday & Friday a petty sessional court will be holden for the purpose of hearing indictable offences in pursuance of the Summary Jurisdiction Act, 1879, also for the purpose of the Act for the Prevention of Poaching, 1862, and for Licensing applications, each of the sessions will commence at 12 o’clock noon & parochial business will be first transacted. The division comprises the following parishes:-Ashwick, Batcombe, Binegar, Bradley (West), Cranmore (East), Cranmore (West), Croscombe, Ditcheat, Doulting, Downhead, Emborough, Evercreech, Hornblotton, Lamyatt, Milton Clevedon, Pennard East, Pilton, Pylle, Shepton Mallet, Stoke Lane & Upton Noble.

SHEPTON MALLET UNION

Board day, alternate Fridays at 11 a.m. at the Workhouse.

The Union comprises the following parishes:-Ashwick, Batcombe, Binegar, Bradley (West), East & West Cranmore, Croscombe, Ditcheat, Doulting, Downhead Emborough, Evercreech, Holcombe, Hornblotton, Lamyatt, East & West Lydford, Milton Clevedon, East Pennard, Pilton, Pylle, Shepton Mallet, Stoke Lane, Stratton-on-Fosse & Upton Noble. The population of the union in 1901 was 115,076; area, 50,109 acres; rateable value in 1901, £110,895.

The Workhouse, West Shepton, is an extensive building, erected in 1848 & will hold 446 inmates; Daniel W. Dix, master; Rev. Robert Landemann Jones B.A. chaplain; James Taylor Hyatt, medical officer; Mrs. E. S. Dix, matron; Miss Rose Hayball, industrial trainer.

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of services. Parish Church, SS. Peter & Paul, Rev. Robert Landemann Jones B.A. rector; holy communion, 8 am.; morning prayer, 11 am.; evening prayer, 6 p.m.; first Sun. in the month, holy communion at 8 am. & after morning prayer; third Sun. in the month, evening prayer & baptisms at 3 p.m.; Wed. evening prayer & sermon at 7.30 p.m.; Fri. litany & baptisms at 11 am.; morning prayer daily at 8 am.

Bowlish School Church (served from SS. Peter & Paul), 6 p.m.

Kilver Street Church School (served from SS. Peter & Paul), 11 am.

H.M. Prison Chapel, Rev. Robert Landemann Jones B.A. chaplain; 10.30 am. & 3 p.m.; daily, 8.45 am. (for prisoners only).

St. Michael, Catholic, West Shepton, Rev. George Johnson, priest; holy communion, 8 am.; mass, 10.30 am.; evening sermon, 6 p.m.

Baptist, Garston st.; 11 am. & 6 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Baptist, Commercial Road, Rev. Thomas Moss; 11 am. & 6 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Congregational, Commercial Road, Rev. G. C. Postans; 11 am. & 6 p.m.; Wed. 7 p.m.

Unitarian, Cowl street, Rev. Lindsey Thomas Badcock; 11 am. & 6 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, Paul st. 11 am. & 6 p.m.; Tues. & Thur. 7.30 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist Mission Chapel, Downside, 6 p.m.

SCHOOLS

The Grammar school, at Charlton, was founded in 1627, by George Strode esq. of London, & William Strode esq. of Barrington, & endowed by them with the rectory of Meare, in this county: it has other endowments from the funds of Hugh Sexey’s hospital at Bruton. New & extensive building of stone in the Gothic style, was opened in July, 1899; these stand in very pleasant & well-laid-out grounds, & include a headmaster’s house for boarders: the school will now hold 132 boys.

National, Waterloo road (boys, girls & infants), erected in 1862, for 220 boys, 170 girls & 144 infants; average attendance, 175 boys, 111 girls & 133 infant.

National, Bowlish (mixed), erected in 1869 & enlarged 1891, for 100 children; average attendance, 95.

National, Kilver street (mixed boys & girls), erected in 1876, for 190 children; average attendance, 113; infants’ average attendance, 77.