Bungay is a pleasant town, seated 106 miles from London, on the south of the river Waveney, which separates this county from Norfolk, and is navigable for barges from Yarmouth thither. A great fire broke out here on the 1st of March, 1688, in a small uninhabited house, which raged so furiously, that it consumed the town, except one small street; and the whole loss was computed at 29, 396l. and upwards. But this terrible accident occasioned the town to be rebuilt in a more regular and beautiful manner. St. Mary’s church is a sumptuous structure, and with its fine steeple is a great ornament to the town; besides this, there is a church dedicated to the Holy Trinity, which was impropriated to the priory of Barlynch in Somersetshire. The impropriation now belongs to the Bishop of Ely, who leases it to the vicar. Exclusive of these two churches there was formerly a third church, dedicated to St. Thomas, which was impropriated to the nunnery; it was standing and in use since the year 1500, but hath been so long down that no person can now tell where it stood. Between the two churches appear the ruins of a Benedictine nunnery, founded by Robert de Glauvile and the countess Gundreda, his lady, to the honour of the Blessed Virgin and the Holy Cross. It was endowed by a great number of benefactors, whose gifts were confirmed by King Henry the Second. In the reign of King Edward the First, here were a prioress and 15 sisters, but at the dissolution not above 11 sisters, whose revenue was then valued at 62l. 2s. 1d. per annum.

Here are also the ruins of a very strong castle, supposed to have been built by the Bigods, earls of Norfolk. In the barons’ wars it was fortified, and made so strong by Hugh Bigod, that he was wont to boast of it as impregnable; saying, in the wars of King Stephen, as is reported:

Were I in my castle of Bungay,

Upon the river Waveney,

I would ne care for the King of Cockney.

But, notwithstanding the confidence he placed in his castle, he was obliged to compound with King Henry the Second, by giving a large sum of money, and sufficient hostages, to save it from being demolished. But afterwards, the Earl siding with Richard, King Henry the Second’s son, against his father, the king took from him his castles of Framlingham and Bungay. This castle was demolished in the reign of Henry the Third; and Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, obtained a licence, in the 10th of Edward the First, to embattle his house in the place where this castle stood; afterwards it reverted to the crown. In consequence of the fire beforementioned, the records belonging to the castle and convent were destroyed. The remains of this castle are now become the habitation of the lowest sort of people, a great number of hovels being raised against its walls, and let out to the poor.

The free grammar-school at this place enjoys the right of sending two scholars to Emanuel college, Cambridge. The theatre and assembly-rooms are neat structures, and the county bridge over the Waveney has been handsomely rebuilt. The marketplace being on a rising ground, has been considered as one of the handsomest in the country; and here were two crosses, in one of which, fowls, butter, &c. were sold; and in the other corn and grain. The top of the former was adorned with a figure of Astrea in lead, weighing eighteen hundred weight. The principal streets, which are broad, well paved, and lighted, branch out from the market-place towards the great roads leading to Norwich, Yarmouth, Bury, Ipswich, Beccles, and Lowestoft; and each of these being terminated by a handsome edifice, produces at first sight a very favourable impression. The large common, contiguous to the town, being enclosed and rated, is of considerable benefit to the inhabitants. At the termination of a pleasant walk to the lower end of it, there is a cold-bath house upon the site of a vineyard, and a physic-garden. The town itself, standing on a sandy soil, has several mineral springs, and one at the King’s Head, is said to possess medicinal properties of peculiar efficacy. As the Waveney nearly surrounds the town, in the form of a horse-shoe, a considerable trade is carried on in corn, malt, flour, coal, lime, &c.; and several capital flour-mills, malting-offices, and lime-kilns, are very productive to their proprietors. Here is also a manufactory of Suffolk hempen cloth.

Bungay is now a good trading town, and the women are employed in knitting stockings. In the marketplace are two handsome crosses; the one for exposing fowls, butter, &c. to sale; and the other corn and grain. The market-day is on Thursday, and the town, according to the late population act, consisted of 492 houses, and 2349 inhabitants, viz. 1053 males, and 1296 females.

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BUNGAY is a market town on the borders of Norfolk, in the Northern division of this county, the head of a petty sessional division, and has a station on the Waveney Valley branch of the Great Eastern railway: it is 113 miles from London by rail, 14 south-east from Norwich by road, 40 north-east from Ipswich, 40 north-east-by-east from Bury St. Edmunds, 20 south-west from Yarmouth, 16 west from Lowestoft and 6 west from Beccles, in Wangford hundred and union, Beccles and Bungay county court district, rural deanery of Wangford, archdeaconry of Suffolk and diocese of Norwich.

Bungay is pleasantly situated on the river Waveney, which is navigable up to the town, and by means of it a trade in corn, malt, flour, coal and lime is carried on. The river is here crossed by two county bridges of modern date, one at the foot of Earsham street consisting of a single brick arch, and another at the end of Bridge street, originally of wood, but replaced by an iron structure in 1880. The principal streets leading to Norwich, Yarmouth, Bury and Ipswich, are broad and well paved, and contain many good houses and shops. The town is lighted with gas from works situated near Upper OlIand street, and at present private property; and is amply supplied with excellent water from the numerous springs with which the town and its neighbourhood abound. The houses have mostly been erected since 1668, when nearly the whole town was destroyed by fire.

Bungay comprises the parishes of St. Mary and Holy Trinity. The church of St. Mary, formerly attached to the Benedictine nunnery once existing here, is an edifice of flint and stone in the Perpendicular style, consisting of nave and aisles (without chancel), north porch and an embattled western tower with four crocketed pinnacles, containing 8 bells and a clock, erected in 1884 by the town at a cost of £123, and kept in repair by the town reeve: the organ was renovated in 1883 a cost of £250: there are seven stained windows, including two memorial windows to the Mann family and one to Lois Camell, an old parishioner: the church was thoroughly restored in 1879 at a cost of £3,000, and affords 600 sittings. The register dates from the year 1538. The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £200, with residence, in the gift of the Church Patronage Society, and held since 1893 by the Rev. William Allan D.D. of Worcester College, Oxford.

The church of the Holy Trinity, supposed to have been built in the 11th century, is an edifice of rubble, faced on the south side with flints, in the Norman style, and consists of nave and aisles (without chancel), south porch and a round embattled western tower, adorned with shields bearing the arms of Thomas de Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk, and son of Edward the First, and the Montacute, Bigod, Beauchamp and other families: in the church is a brass of Margaret Dallinger, who was prioress here and a monument to the Rev. Thomas Wilson, who died in 1774: the pulpit of black oak is a very fine example of Elizabethan work: there are 420 sittings, of which 125 are free. The register dates from the year 1557. The living is a vicarage, net yearly value £210, with 10 acres of glebe, and residence, in the gift of the Bishop of Norwich, and held since 1890 by the Rev. James Amiraux Fletcher B.A. of Corpus Christi college, Cambridge, and surrogate.

The Catholic church in St. Mary’s street, dedicated to St. Edmund, was erected in 1892 at the sole cost of Frederic Smith esq. solicitor, on a site presented by the Duke of Norfolk K.G. and is chiefly in the Late Decorated style, from designs by Mr. B. Smith R.I.B.A. and contains a fine series of the “Stations of the Cross,” carved in oak: there is also some good modern stained glass and some statuary ornaments the western entrance: there are 350 sittings. In 1894 a new priory was built adjacent to the church, and is the residence of the Rev. Archembald F. Fleming O.S.B.: the schools were designed by Mr. F. E. Banham, of Beccles; the entire sum expended on the church, schools and priory was about £20,000.

St. Mary’s Parish Room and Mission Hall, erected in 1882, is used for parochial meetings; on Sundays a mission service is held and the lower floor is used as a Sunday school.

The Cemetery for Holy Trinity parish, at the south end of the town, covers an area of two acres, and has mortuary chapels.

A Cemetery for St. Mary’s parish was formed in 1887 adjoining that of Holy Trinity; it covers an area of 4 acres, with one mortuary chapel. Both are managed by the “Bungay Burial Authority,” a joint committee of 10 members appointed by the Parish Councils.

The Corn Hall, in which the Corn market is held on Thursdays, was formerly a theatre; the hall is also used for concerts, theatrical performances, lectures, political and other public meetings, and will hold 350 persons.

The Odd-Fellows’ Hall, Market place, erected in 1883, will seat 200, and is let for entertainments.

The Fire Engine Station is in Cross street; a new fire engine was purchased by subscription in 1889 at a cost of £187 15s. towards which the town reeve contributed £50.

The Bungay Church Institute, in Wharton street, is open, at a nominal subscription, to men only; discussions are held here on various subjects and arrangements are made for social evenings; there are about 75 members.

The Market place, in the centre of the town, stands on gently rising ground and formerly contained two so-called market crosses, but has now only one: this is an octagonal building with dome-shaped roof, on the top of which, standing on a pedestal, is a figure of Justice, holding the scales in the left and a gilded sword in the right hand. The market day is Thursday. In the town are the extensive Chaucer Press printing works and stereotype and electrotype foundry of Messrs. R. Clay and Sons Limited, of Bread Street hill, London, formerly belonging to Messrs. John Childs and Son, and first established in 1795; these works were enlarged in 1880, 1889, 1896 & 1900; upwards of 200 workpeople are employed: there are also flour and steam saw mills, an iron foundry and malt houses.

The Bungay Nursing Institute, in Trinity street, was founded in 1887, from the interest of £3,000 left by Samuel Scott esq. and a nurse is regularly maintained to attend upon the sick poor of both parishes at their homes: a house for a nurse’s residence was purchased at a cost of £250.

The “St. Edmund’s Homes,” erected in 1895 by Frederic Smith esq. at a cost of nearly £2,000, are residences for six single persons and two married couples.

The charities for distribution to the poor amount to about £52 yearly, £29 belonging to St. Mary’s parish and £23 to that of Holy Trinity: Lord Northampton’s charity, consisting of an annuity of £26 for each parish, is generally granted to decayed tradesmen or widows. There are six almshouses founded in 1577 by Christian Wharton, and others founded by Thomas Popson MA. in 1592, comprising six rooms for widows only: the Town almshouses contain twelve rooms, and in 1848 Mrs. Eliza Dreyer founded and endowed widows’ homes for five persons.

The town lands, situated in the parishes of Bungay and Ilketshall St. John in Suffolk and Earsham and Hempnall in Norfolk, are under the control of the town feoffees, now (1900) six in number, and appointed under feoffment deed, the Town reeve for the year being elected by his fellow feoffees on the 1st Tuesday in December: the income derived from the lands, amounting to about £270 yearly, is subject to certain fixed annual charges, including £22 1s. 2d. paid to the Grammar school; the remainder is devoted to repairs, rates and taxes, repairing of the almshouses, keeping the town clock in St. Mary’s church tower in repair, and lighting and generally improving the town.

Adjoining the Kings Head Hotel is a house and shop, now (1900) let at a rental of £40 per annum; these premises were devised many years ago by the will of one Robert Scales; it is administered by the vicar and churchwardens of St. Mary’s, and the net rental is applied annually to the payment of the salary of the organist of that church.

Northward of the town is a common of 408 acres, almost surrounded by the Waveney; and on the south side of the town is Stow Fen, containing 88 acres; these are under the management of the Common and Fen reeves respectively, both bodies being elected by the owners.

At the period of the Norman survey Bungay was divided into several manors and estates, which were retained by the Conqueror in his own hands under the stewardship of William de Noiers; they are now the property of the Duke of Norfolk E.M. K.G. to whom they have descended through a long line of ancestors from Roger Bigod, the original grantee. Reginald de Bungay was lord mayor of London 1241—42.

Part of the castle, built by the Bigods, Earls of Norfolk, is still standing; in the reign of Stephen it appears to have been considered impregnable by Hugh Bigot, to whom the following rhyme, part of an old ballad, is attributed:—

“Were I in my Castle of Bungay,

Upon the waters of Waveney,

I would ne care for the King of Cockney.”

The ruins, pleasantly situated, overlooking the Waveney valley, are interesting and of some extent.

Upland Hall, about a mile from the town, on the Flixton road, and now (1900) unoccupied, has well laid out grounds, containing a Levant oak, about 80 years old, of unusual growth and beauty, the circumference of the overhanging branches being over 150 feet.

George Frederick Beaumont esq. F.S.A, of The Lawn, Coggeshall, Essex, is lord of the manor of Mettingham Castle with Bungay Soca.

The principal landowners are the trustees of the late William Hartcup esq. Sir Hugh Edward Adair bart. of Flixton Hall, and Lady Bateman, of Broome Hall.

The area of St. Mary is 573 acres of land and 17 of water; assessable value, £4,878; of Holy Trinity, 2,043 acres of land and 10 of water; assessable value, £4,338; the population in 1891 of St. Mary was 1,757, and of Holy Trinity 1,801; total, 3,558.

Petty Sessions are held at the Oddfellows’ hall every alternate Thursday at 11 a.m. The following places are within the Petty Sessional division:-Bungay St. Mary & Holy Trinity, Flixton, Homersfield, Mettingham, Ilketshall St. Andrew, Ilketshall St. John, Ilketshall St. Lawrence, Ilketshall St. Margaret, South Elmham All Saints-cum-St. Nicholas, South Elmham St. George or St. Cross, South Elmham St. James, South Elmham St. Margaret, South Elmham. St. Michael & South Elmham St. Peter.

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of Services

St. Mary’s Church, St. Mary’s street, Rev. Wm. Allan D.D. vicar; 10.45 a.m. & 7 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.; Fri. litany 12.30 p.m.

Holy Trinity Church, Trinity street, Rev. James Amiraux Fletcher B.A. vicar; 8 & 11 a.m. & 7 p.m.; Wed. 12 noon; saints’ days, 4 p.m.

St. Mary’s Mission Hall, Broad street, 3 p.m.

St. Edmund’s Catholic, St. Mary’s street, Rev. Archembald F. Fleming O.S.B. priest; Sundays, holy communion at 8.45 a.m. (first Sunday of month, mass at 8.30 & 10.30 a.m.); catechetical instruction, rosary & benediction at 3 p.m.; vespers, sermon & benediction at 6 p.m.; holy days, mass at 9 a.m.; rosary & benediction, 7.30 p.m.; week days mass, 8.30 a.m.; Wednesdays, rosary & benediction, 7.30 p.m.; seats 350.

Baptist, Neatgate street; 10.30 a.m. & 2.30 p.m. in summer & 2 p.m. in winter & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.; seats 395.

Baptist, Priory lane; 10.30 a.m. 2.30 & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Congregational, Upper Olland street, Rev. Wm. Tomalin A.T.S.; 10.45 a.m.& 6.30 p.m.; Tues.8 p.m.; seats 520.

Primitive Methodist, South End road, Rev. T. Archer & Rev. Albert E. Rose; 11 a.m. & 2.30 & 6.30 p.m.; Mon. 7.30 p.m.; seats 180.

Wesleyan, Trinity street, Rev. C. Walker & Rev. Alfred R. Choate; 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Mon. & Wed. 7.30 p.m.; seats 250.

Salvation Army Barracks, Bridge street; 7 & 11 a.m. & 3 & 6.30 p.m.; daily, 8 p.m. in Nethergate street.

SCHOOLS

The Grammar School (founded in 1592) is regulated by a scheme of the Endowed Schools Commission issued in 1879: in 1863 an excellent school room was built.

Rees, clerk to the governors; the present number of boys is 20.

A School Board of 7 members was formed 16 April, 1875, for the United District of Bungay Holy Trinity, Bungay St. Mary & Mettingham; Robert Hicks, Staithe road, attendance officer; the board meet at the schools the last Friday in each month at 8 p.m.

Board Schools, Wingfield street, erected in 1877 & enlarged in 1889, for boys, girls & infants, with classrooms to hold about 730 scholars; average attendance, 187 boys, 175 girls & 156 infants.

Catholic School (mixed), erected 1899 at the expense of Frederic Smith esq. for 150 children; average attendance, 50.