The parish of Lambeth is about 16 miles in circumference, and contains 2, 612 acres of land. It is divided into six divisions, viz. the Bishop’s liberty, the Prince’s liberty, Vauxhall marsh and wall liberty, Lambeth, Dean, and Stockwell.

A grant of a weekly market at Lambeth was obtained from King John by Archbishop Hubert Walter; also a fair for fifteen days, upon condition that it should not prejudice the interests of the city of London. In the archbishop’s manuscript library, is a charter from the city, signifying their consent, stipulating only, that the fair should begin on the morrow after the anniversary of St. Peter ad vincula. Both have long been discontinued.

The earliest historical fact relating to Lambeth is the death of Hardicanute, which happened here in 1041, whilst he was celebrating the marriage feast of a noble Dane. He died suddenly, during the entertainment, some say of poison, others of intemperance.

Henry III. held a solemn Christmas here in the year 1231, under the superintendence of Hubert de Burgh, his chief justice. A parliament was held the following year at Lambeth, on the 14th September, wherein the fortieth part of all moveables was voted to the king for the payment of a debt, which he owed the duke of Bretagne.

On Sunday, the 19th February, 1642-3, a violent outrage was committed in the church of Lambeth. The story is variously told by the journalists of the different parties. On the one hand it is asserted, that the tumult began in consequence of some of the parish officers rebuking a soldier who sat with his hat on during divine service. That the soldiers were assaulted by the watermen, and driven out of the church, whence they were obliged to retire to their court of guard, where the watermen continued to assault them by throwing stones, until at length they were under the necessity of firing in their own defence, when one person was killed and another wounded. On the other side it is said that the soldiers who had guard of Lambeth House, then a prison, at the instigation of Dr. Leighton, broke into the church with muskets and other weapons, that they tore the common-prayer book to pieces, pulled the surplice off the minister’s back, and committed other outrages, to the, great terror of the people, till the watermen came to their rescue. It seems pretty clear that the soldiers were in fault, as the House of Commons, upon the petition of Dr. Featly, and other inhabitants of Lambeth, ordered that they should be removed, and another company placed in their room.

The palace of the archbishop of Canterbury, which is also the Manor House, is situated near the river. It is an extensive pile of building, and exhibits various styles of architecture. It appears that Lambeth Palace was in a great measure, if not wholly, rebuilt by Archbishop Boniface, about the year 1262. The chapel is supposed to be a part of this structure; it has indeed the appearance of still greater antiquity. The windows resemble those of the Temple Church, which was built in the twelfth century; under the chapel is a crypt, the arches of which are built of stone, as is the chapel. The roof of the latter is flat.

When Lambeth palace was purchased by Scott and Hardy, in the seventeenth century, the former having possession of this part of the palace, removed the tomb of Archbishop Parker, whose remains were deposited here, and turned the chapel into a dancing room. The leaden coffin was sold to a plumber, and the Archbishop’s corpse was thrown into a hole in one of the out-houses. After the Restoration it was discovered, and reinterred in the chapel. The spot is marked by a marble slab, thus inscribed, "Corpus Matthaei Archiepiscopi tandem hie quiescit."

In the vestry there are some portraits, among which are those of Cardinal Pole; Dr. Williams, Bishop of Chichester in 1696; Dr. Evans, Bishop of Bangor in 1707; Dr. Gardiner, Bishop of Lincoln in 1694; Dr. Whichcote, the learned professor of King’s College, writer upon ecclesiastical history.

The great hall was rebuilt by Archbishop Juxon, after the Civil Wars, upon the old model, and atthe expence of 10,500l. It is 93 feet in length, and 38 in breadth; it has a gothic roof of wood.

The guard room appears to have been built before the year 1424; its roof is like the hall, and is 56 feet long, and 27 1/2 feet wide. In this room is a whole length picture of Henry Prince of Wales.

The long gallery, built about Cardinal Pole’s time, is 90 feet in length, and 16 in breadth. The wainscot remains in its original state, being all of mantled carving. In the windows are the coats of arms of the various Archbishops of Canterbury, painted on glass. Some of more ancient date were removed when the bay window was made; over the chimney-piece is a portrait of Martin Luther, and a fine picture of Archbishop Warham by Holbein. There are also several other curious portraits in this gallery. The view from the bay window of the gallery is remarkably beautiful. St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, and the Bridge, are seen to great advantage between the clumps of trees in the pleasure grounds, which exclude the rest of the city.

In the great dining room, which is 38 feet long, by 19 feet wide, are portraits of all the archbishops from Laud to the present time.

The library occupies the four galleries over the cloisters, which form a small quadrangle. It is said, by Aubrey, to have been built by Archbishop Sheldon. During the Civil Wars the books were all seized by the parliament; after the Restoration they were demanded and restored to his successors, who prosecuted the claim. The library was founded by Archbishop Bancroft, and since augmented by Archbishops Sheldon, Tennison, and Seeker, particularly the latter. The present number of books is supposed to be about 25, 000.

In the windows of the library is some painted glass. Among the pictures are an original one of Archbishop Bancroft, and portraits of Fox, Bishop of Winchester; Dr. Peter de Moulin, and Dr. Wilkins, two learned divines, the one a librarian, the other a domestic chaplain at Lambeth.

The Library of manuscripts is situated over the western part of that which contains the printed books. It contains many valuable manuscripts, amongst those of singular curiosity are the following: —A translation of the wise sayings of philosophers, by Woodville, Earl Rivers, with a beautiful illuminated drawing of the earl presenting his book to Edward IV.; —a vellum book, containing 35 very rich illuminations representing the "Dance of Machabree," commonly called Death’s dance; —a curious Saxon MS. of a book, written by Adhelm, Bishop of Shireborn in the eighth century, with a drawing of the bishop in his pontifical chair, and a lady abbess presenting to him eight of her nuns; —Archbishop Cranmer’s household book; —and a curious and complete copy of Archbishop Parker’s antiquities, printed in 1572, and interleaved with original MSS. of records, letters, &c.

The great tower at the west end of the chapel, usually called the Lollard’s tower, was built by Archbishop Chichele, in the years 1434, 1435. On the west side of this structure is a gothic niche, in which was placed the image of St. Thomas. At the top of the tower is a small room, called the prison, wainscoted with oak, above an inch thick, on which are several names and broken sentences in old characters, cut with a knife. In the walls of the room are fixed large iron rings, intended, as is supposed, to confine the Lollards, and other unfortunate persons, who are said to have been imprisoned here.

The gateway and the adjoining tower, which are brick, were built by Archbishop Morton about 1490.

The gardens and park, which contain near thirteen acres, are laid out with great taste. In the garden, against the wall of the palace, are two fig trees of a very extraordinary size, covering a surface of 50 feet in height, and 40 in breadth. The trunk of the larger is 28 inches in circumference. They are of the white sort, and bear very fine fruit. It is said they were planted by Cardinal Pole.

In Wat Tyler’s rebellion, in the year 1381, the commons of Essex came to the palace here, burnt or spoiled all the furniture and books, drank up all the liquors, and destroyed all the registers and public papers. Archbishop Sudbury at the same time fell a sacrifice to their resentment.

Queen Elizabeth frequently visited Lambeth Palace. The following account of her visit in 1573 is in Archbishop Parker’s antiquities. "The queen removing from Hampton Court to Greenwich, visited the Archbishop at Lambeth, where she staid all night. That day was Tuesday; the next being Wednesday, it was usual, as it was the season of Lent, that a sermon should be preached before the Queen. A pulpit therefore was placed in the quadrangle near the pump, and a sermon was delivered by Dr. Pearce. The Queen heard it from the upper gallery that looks towards the Thames, the nobility and courtiers stood in the other galleries, which formed the quadrangle. The people from below divided their attention between her majesty and the preacher. When the sermon was over they went to dinner. The other parts of the house being occupied by the Queen and her attendants, the archbishop received his guests in the great room next to the garden below stairs. Here on the Tuesday he invited a large party of the inferior courtiers. In the same room on the Wednesday he made a great dinner; at his own table sat down nine earls and seven barons; at the other table, the comptroller of the Queen’s household, her secretary, and many other knights and esquires; besides the usual table for the great officers of state, where sat the Lord Treasurer, the Lord Admiral, the Chamberlain, and others. The whole of this charge was borne by the archbishop. At four of the clock, on the Wednesday afternoon, the queen and her court removed to Greenwich."

Lambeth Palace became the first object of popular fury during the Civil Wars in the reign of Charles the First. On the 9th May, 1641, a paper was stuck up at the Old Change, to excite the apprentices to rise and attack the palace at Lambeth. Archbishop Laud, against whom this violence was directed, having had notice of their intention, fortified his house as well as he could. On the 11th, at midnight, it was beset by about 500 men, who continued there two hours, but did no other mischief than breaking a few windows. Whitlock says they set at liberty some prisoners. Some of the ringleaders were apprehended, and one of them was executed for high treason.

In 1642 Captain Brown, with a party of soldiers, entered Lambeth, to keep it for the parliament. Soon after the House of Commons voted that it should be made a prison. Amongst the prisoners confined here during the Civil Wars, were the Earls of Chesterfield and Derby.

In 1648 the palace was put up to sale, and purchased with the manor for 7073l. 8d. by Thomas Scott and Mathew Hardy. The former was the Protector’s secretary, and one of the persons who sat on the trial of Charles I. for which he was executed at Charing Cross, in 1660.

During the riots in 1780 the palace was threatened, but being protected by the military, fortunately received no damage.

The parish church of Lambeth is situated near the water side, adjoining the archbishop’s palace. The church was rebuilt between the years 1374 and 1377. The tower, which is of free-stone, still remains; the other parts of the present structure appear to be about the age of Henry VII. It consists of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel. The nave is separated from the aisles by octagonal pillars, and pointed arches, over which are several coats of arms in stone. The church, which is built of flints mixed with stone and brick, was repaired and ornamented in 1769, at which time the Howard and Leigh chapels were incorporated with it. In one of the windows over the nave is the figure of a pedlar and his dog, painted on glass. The tradition is, that it represents a person of that occupation, who bequeathed a piece of land to the parish, now called Pedlar’s Acre. It is, however, more probable that the picture was rather intended as a rebus on the name of the benefactor, than as descriptive of his trade.

On a flat stone, in the north side of the chancel, is the figure of a man in armour, engraven on a brass plate, with the arms of Clere; being the tomb of Thomas Clere, Esq. who died in 1545; over it was formerly a tablet, with an inscription, written by the celebrated Earl of Surrey.

On another slab is the figure of a woman, upon a brass plate; she is habited in a robe, ornamented with coats of arms; at her feet is a squirrel. Some parts of a Gothic canopy, and several labels are to be seen upon the stone, which covers the remains of Catherine, wife of Lord William Howard, who died April 23, 1535.

At the upper end of the chancel, on the north side, is a monument of white and black marble, to the memory of Robert Scott, Esq. In the centre is his bust, well executed; it is surrounded with military trophies in basso-relievo. On the tablet underneath is the following inscription.

"Nere to this place lyeth interred the body of Robert

Scott, Esq. descended of the ancient barons of

Baweric in Scotland. He bent himself to travel

and studie much, and amongst many other thinges he invented leather ordnance, and carried to the King of Sweden 200 men; who, after two yeares service, for his worth and valour was preferred to the office of quarter-master-general of his Majesty’s army, which he possessed three yeares. From thence, with his favour, he went into Denmark (where he was advanced to be general of that king’s artillerie) there being advised to render his service to his own prince, which he doinge, his majestie willinglie accepted and preferred him to be one of the gentlemen of the most honourable privie chamber, and rewarded him with a pencyon of 600l. per annum. This deserving spirit adorned with all endowments befitting a gentleman, in the prime of his flourishing age surrendered his soule to his Redeemer, 1631.

Of his greate worthe to knowe who seeketh more, Must mount to heaven where he is gone before.

"In Fraunce he took to wife Ann Scott, for whose remembrance she lovinglie erected this memoriall."

In the church yard, amongst others, is the monument of John Tradescant, which was erected in 1662, and repaired by subscription in 1773, when the following inscription was restored.

Know, stranger, ere thou pass, beneath this stone,

Lye John Tradescant, grandsire, father, son;

The last dy’d in his spring; the other two

Liv’d till they had travelled art and nature through.

As by their choice collections may appear

Of what is rare in land, in seas, in air;

Whilst they (as Homer’s Iliad in a nut)

A world of wonders in one closet shut;

These famous antiquarians, that had been

Both gardeners to the rose and lily queen,

Transplanted now themselves sleep here; and when

Angels shall with their trumpets awaken them

And fire shall purge the world, these hence shall rise,

And change their garden for a paradise."

Among the charitable institutions of Lambeth parish, may be mentioned the following, viz. a school for twenty boys of the Marsh liberty, founded and endowed in 1661, by Major Richard Lawrence. A master and four overseers are to be chosen by the parish. This school is now incorporated with another in the Back Lane, which was instituted and supported by voluntary subscription. The number of boys now educated herein is fifty, a certain proportion of whom are annually put out apprentices. In the year 1704 a school for the education of twelve girls was founded and endowed by Archbishop Tennison. Another charity school for girls was instituted by subscription about fifteen years ago, which has been liberally supported; a house has been built for the purpose, and thirty children are now educated there.

"A trench is said to have been cut through the parish of Lambeth by King Canute, for the purpose of conveying his fleet to the west side of London-bridge, to attack the city by water. The editor of the last edition of Aubrey, says, that some traces of it were visible in his time; from the increase of new buildings no vestiges thereof are now to be seen."

The celebrated Spring-Gardens, Vauxhall, in this parish, were, in 1615, the property of Jane Vaux, widow. The mansion-house upon the estate, was then called Stockdens. It is not known exactly when these premises were first opened for public entertainment. The Spring Gardens at Vauxhall are mentioned in the Spectator, as a place of great resort. They have been opened three times a week during the greater part of the summer seasons for the reception of company, being illuminated with a great number of lamps.

The entertainment consists of a concert of music, instrumental and vocal, which in fine weather is performed in the open air. The general price for admission is three shillings and sixpence.

Of late years the season has commenced on the 4th of June, and continued till the end of August. In the summer of 1821, these Gardens were closed in July, on account of the weather. The have since been sold by auction.

The manor of Kennington, in Lambeth parish, became vested in the crown, 11 Edward III. and was afterwards made part of the duchy of Cornwall, to which it still continues annexed. There was anciently a palace at Kennington, which was the occasional residence of our kings, until the reign of Henry VIII.

The hamlet of Stockwell, about one mile from Clapham, is in the parish of Lambeth. A chapel of ease was built here in the year 1767, towards which Archbishop Secker gave 500l.

About the year 1772 a singular imposition was practised at the house of Mrs. Golding, at this place, which was reported to be haunted. Great numbers of people, of all ranks, went to see the feats of this imaginary ghost, who caused the furniture to dance about the rooms in a very surprising manner. The imposture was never completely detected; some suspected Mrs. Golding’s daughter, others a maid-servant. After the death of Mrs. Golding and her daughter, ten years after, there was an auction at the house, when the dancing furniture sold at very extravagant prices.