SUSSEX is a southern maritime shire, lying on the English Channel, with Surrey to the north. Kent to the east and north-east and Hampshire to the west it is of oblong form in the direction of the see-shore from east to west, between 0° 49' E. and 0° 58' W. long and 50° 43' and 51° 9' N. lat. being 72 miles long from Lady Holt Park to Kent Ditch, and 27 miles broad from Tunbridge Wells to Beachy Head.

The area of the county comprises 933,269 acres, which has been reduced by the transfer of 536 acres, part of Tunbridge Wells (Frant), and part of Lamberhurst (1,937 acres), to the county of Kent; 1,453 acres being added to Sussex, viz, being part of Broomhill; total erea now being 932,249; the population in 1801 was 159,471; 1811 190,343; 1821, 233 328; 1831, 272,644; 1841, 300,075; 1851, 336,844; 1861, 353,735; 1871, 417,456; 1881, 490,505; and in 1891, 550,446-males, 253,438; females 297,008. The inhabited houses numbered 100,625, uninhabited 6,470 and buildings 760.

In the time of the Romans Sussex was inhabited by Belgae, who had supplanted the British Celts, the successors of the Iberians. In the year 47 this district was conquered by Vespasian, but the government was left to a Belgic chief, Cogidubnus, who resided at Regnum (Chichester). The Romans founded also the towns Mutuantonis and Andterida (Pevensey); Mide, (Midhurst) and Portus Adurni (Bramber) were other Roman Stations; and at Bignor considerable Roman remains have been found. The Romans having retired in 477, Ella, a descendant of Woden, accompanied by his sons, Cymen, Winching and Cissa, at the head of a body of Saxons, Friese, Warings and other English, came over to the aid of Hengist, conquered the country, and founded the county of Sussex, or the South Saxons. In 485 they fought a desperate battle with Aurelius Ambrosius, at the head of the mixed Romans, Belgae and Britons, but received a severe check; in 491, however, having been reinforced, the English took Anderida and finally secured their possessions here, and the county of Surrey seems occasionally to have been under the supremacy of Sussex, which then constituted a second-rate English power; Regnum, afterwards called Chichester, from Cissa, king of the South Saxons, becoming the seat of government. In 688 Sussex succumbed to the power of the West Saxons, and was reduced to a state of vassalage. In the reign of Ethelred the coast was much ravaged by the Danes, who were defeated by him and Alfred, in 871, at Dane Hill, in Horsted Keynes. Alfred resided in Sussex frequently, and built many castles and towns. In the reign of Harold, on the 14th October, 1066, was fought the famous battle of Hastings, or Senlac, between himself and William the Norman, the other claimant of the English Crown. On the 14th of May, 1264, was fought the battle of Lewes, between the barons, under the illustrious patriot, Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and Henry III. with his son Edward; the Londoners were defeated by Prince Edward, but Montfort was eventually the victor, and the King with his brother Richard were made prisoners. The result of the ascendancy of the barons was the re-establishment (20 Jan. 1265) of the representative system in the foundation of the House of Commons. During the Parliamentary Wars the shire was the scene of frequent conflict. The population of Sussex is of very pure descent, a large majority being natives of the county, and remarkable for their blue eyes, light hair and English features. The Sussex dialect formerly Varied considerably, and still contains 200 words little used elsewhere.

Sussex belongs to the chalk formation and has some high ranges of downr and hills. The north is occupied by the Wealden formation, covering 420,000 acres, and the south by the chalk formations. On the east are marshes and alluvial lands tad on the west the coast is much indented, but at other points it Tuns out in bold cliffs. The Downs extend between 50 and 60 miles in length, with an average breadth of 7 miles: the mean altitude is about 500 feet above the level of the sea, but some of the heights attain an elevation of between 800 and 900 feet; on the northern side the descent is steep and abrupt, on the southern it is gradual; in their general outline the Downs, like all mountain ranges of the chalk formation, are rounded in their form and covered with a fine close turf, which affords good pasturage to a race of sheep no less remarkable for the fineness of their wool than for the excellent mutton into which they are converted, and which is thought to owe much of its flavour to the herbs and fine grass which cover the surface of the hills; although destitute of trees, except on their horthern side, the Downs possess beauties peculiarly their own in the long serpentine lines into which they fell, the variety and harmony of their colours, passing from blue through grey to the warmer tints of pale yellow, green, orange and russet, and in the bold fend ever-changing masses of shadow which traverse their steep sides as the clouds are driven by the wind: a fresh invigorating breeze always prevails on the towns, even during the hottest season of the year. The chief hills are Ditchelling Beacon, 820 feet high; Firla Beacon, 820 feet; Chanctonbury Ring, 814 feet, and near it the lofty eminence known as the devil’s Dyke 5 and Crowborough Beacon, 804 feet; Beachy Head is a bold cliff about 312 feet high.

The rivers are principally small streams. The Arum, the chief river, rises in St. Leonards Forest, receives the Western Bother and Western Arum, and passes Hardham and Arundel to the sea at Littlehampton; it is navigable for ships as far as Arundel, and for barges a long distance, being united by canal with the Thames, also by the Arundel and Portsmouth. Canal with Chichester Harbour and Havant and by the, West Rother Canal with Petworth and Midhurst; the Arum has fine trout and mullet. The Rother, the ancient Limene, rises in the east of the shire, and forming part of the north-east border, becomes navigable at Newenden and falls into the sea near Rye, after receiving the Brede from Winchelsea. The Arton Brook falls into the sea at Bulverhithe. The Ashbourn River falls into the wea at Pevensey. The Cuckmere River rises near Heathfield, and is a mill stream, with a navigable mouth at Cuckmere Haven. The Ouse River rises near Balcombe and passes Uckfield and Lewes, receiving the Glynd, and falling into the sea at Newhaven; it is navigable as far as Lindfield, in the heart of the county; the mouth of this river was anciently at Seaford, until it formed ior itself a new mouth at Newhaven. The Adur rises near Itchingfield and passes Shermanbury and Bramber to the sea at Shoreham harbour; it is navigable to Shermanbury and has good mullet, pike and eels. The Lavant, an intermittent stream, rises in Charlton Forest and falls into Chichester Harbour. The Medway risen in the north part of the shire at Turner's Hill near East Grinstead and flows across Kent to the mouth of the Thames. The Arum and the Wey Canal, constructed to connect those rivers, has to a great extent fallen into disuse; about midway in its Course, between Loxwood and Billingshurst, the towing path and locks remain, but the canal itself is in some places dry. The Royal Military Canal traverses the marsh and lowland of the east.

The Harbours of Sussex are far from good, except in West Sussex at Chichester and Havant. The ports are Rye, Pevensey, Cuckmere, Seaford, Newhaven ( with harbour and breakwater) Shoreham (with a harbour and pier), Littlehampton (at the mouth of the Arum) and Chichester. Seaford Bay afrords safe shelter during easterly gales by reason of its lofty cliffs and the sea there being of great depth. The chief business is in fishing and in steamboat traffic from Newhaven to Dieppe, and Havre, this being one of the London and Paris routes, also from Littlehampton to Honfleur and the west and south-west of France and to Jersey and occasionally from Rye to Abbeville. Some trade is carried on with France and considerable coasting traffic between Chichester, Rye, Shoreham, Littlehampton and Newhaven.

Time of high water on the Full and Change of the Moon at the following places on the Coast of Sussex.

* By the rise of the tide is meant its vertical rise above the mean low water level of spring tides.

A main dependence of the county is on its bathing towns, which include Brighton with Hove; Hastings with St. Leonards; Eastbourne, Worthing, Bognor, Littlehampton, and Seaford; besides which many of the villages of the coast are frequented for bathing. The climate is mild and beneficial to invalids.

The London, Brighton and South Coast Railway has five lines running from the north of the county to the coast, the first, on the east, entering the county near Groombridge and running via Eridge and Hailsham, and joining at Polegate the line from Lewes to Hastings, a branch from Polegate going direct to Eastbourne; the next line enters by East Grinstead find runs via Horsted Keynes to Lewes, whence a branch goes to Seaford; the centre, which is the main line, comes by Croydon and Redhill, and enters the county at Three Bridges, and runs by Haywards Heath and Wivelsfield direct to Brighton and Hove, connecting with line from Lewes, which has a branch to Kemp Town; the coast line is continued westward from Brighton to Chichester and Portsmouth with branches to Littlehampton and Bognor; the fourth line enters a little north of Horsham, and runs south-west by Pulborough and Arundel to Ford, the junction for Littlehampton; the last of five lines is one that starts from Guildford, and entering the country near Slinfold, crosses the last-named line and runs south-east via West Grinstead and Steyning, joining the coast line at Shoreham. A line leaves Chichester and runs north to Midhurst, thence turning east and joining the Arundel line at Pulborough, and a connecting line leaves the Arundel line at Horsham, runs through Three Bridges (on the main line), East Grinstead (on the Lewes line), and Groombridge (on the Polegate, or Eastbourne, line), through to Tunbridge Wells. From Eridge, on the Eastbourne line, a line crosses via Uckfield to Barcombe, on the Lewes line, and from Lewes station a line runs to Wivelsfield, on the main line, and there is another loop from Haywards Heath to Horsted Keynes. The South Eastern railway has a line to Hastings from Tunbridge Wells and also communicates with Rye, Winchelsea and Hastings from Ashford. The London and South Western Railway has only one short branch within this county, viz. from Petersfield, Hants, to Midhurst, where it connects with the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway system.

The culture of Sussex is applied to its rich marsh lands in fattening cattle, and to its downs for feeding sheep. The shire is famous for its breed of Sussex oxen and Southdown sheep. The productions of the county are chalk, lime, building stone, firestone, flint, Sussex marble, salt and sulphuret of iron. Near Battle gypsum has been discovered, from which plaster of paris and cement are made. At Rottingdean pebbles of agate and chalcedony are found, which are cut and polished and called Rottingdean pebbles. Much of the soil, particularly in the Weald, is cold and poor, but a good deal of wheat is raised. Hops are grown in the eastern districts, 43,092 cwts. being returned in 1897, or equal to one tenth of the entire crop in England, and in the uplands coppice wood. At West Tarring, near Worthing, is an orchard for figs, a fruit which is peculiar to this county. At Worthing there are several nurseries and market gardens, where early fruits &c. are extensively grown in glass houses and sent direct to the London markets. Much fine timber is planted and produced. The woods amount to 123,000 acres: formerly they were of great importance for the iron manufacture, the chief seat of which was in Sussex until 1720, but the last furnace was extinguished at Ashburnham in 1828.

The manufactures are few: chiefly consisting of brushes and brooms, beer, potash, bricks and tiles, pottery and pipes, salt, cement and plaster of paris; coach making, currying and tanning, oil grinding, millwrights’ work, shipbuilding, block making, soap-boiling and distilling; candle making is also carried on.

The number of vessels registered in 1897 in the ports of Littlehampton, Newhaven, Rye and Shoreham was 181, with a tonnage of 13,659 tons, and of fishing boats 285, with a tonnage of 2,543 tons.

Many roads communicate with the Metropolis; the old mail roads were those to Hastings, Brighton and Portsmouth, with one from Dover to Portsmouth, following the lire of the sea coast.

The county contains 316 civil parishes, and is in the diocese of Chichester and in the archdeaconries of Chichester and Lewes. Chichester archdeaconry is subdivided into the rural deaneries of Arundel, which has two divisions, Boxgrove three divisions, Chichester, Midhurst three divisions, and Storrington four divisions; Lewes archdeaconry is subdivided into the rural deaneries of Dallington, Hastings two divisions, Lewes five divisions, and Pevensey four divisions. It is in the South-Eastern circuit, Lewes being the assize town. The shire is for certain purposes divided into East Sussex and West Sussex; these being again subdivided into six rapes, running across the shire from north to south. East Sussex and West Sussex have each a separate police force. The county is divided into 18 petty sessional divisions, viz. 11 in the eastern and 7 in the western division. East Sussex includes the rapes of Hastings, Lewes and Pevensey. The quarter sessions are held at Lewes. Petty sessions are held at Battle, Brighton, East Grinstead, Frant, Hailsham, Hastings, Haywards Heath, Hurst Green, Lewes, Rye and Uckfield. West Sussex includes the rapes of Arundel, Bramber and Chichester. The quarter sessions are held at Petworth at Easter, Horsham at Trinity, and Chichester at Michaelmas. Petty sessions are held at Arundel, Chichester, Horsham, Midhurst, Petworth, Steyning and Worthing.

The city of Chichester has a separate jurisdiction, and is regarded as the capital of the shire. The cinque ports of Hastings, Rye, Seaford and Winchelsea, have also separate jurisdictions, as has also Brighton and the port of Hastings.

The general law relating to the militia does not apply to the cinque ports, which are regulated in this respect by the statute of 55 or 57 George HI. c. 72.

The municipal boroughs are Arundel, population in 1891, 2,644; Brighton, 115,873; Chichester, 7,830; Eastbourne, 34,969; Hastings, 52,223; Lewes, 10,997; Rye, 3,871; and Worthing, 16,606.

The other principal towns are Battle, 3,153; Bognor, 4,104; East Grinstead, 5,180; Hailsham, 3,369; Haywards Heath, 2,452; Horsham, 8,087; Littlehampton, 4,452; Midhurst, 1,615; New Shoreham, 3,393; and Uckfield, 2,497.

The Registration Districts are: —

*Two unions; Lewes, population 22,887; Newhaven 9,537.

Compton, East Dean, East Marden, Mid Lavant, North Marden, Racton, Singleton, Stoughton, Upper Marden, Westboume and West Dean.

The County Hospital at Brighton, founded 26th March, 1826, and opened in June, 1828, is a plain but noble building, standing on an elevated site near Kemp town, presented by T. R. Kemp esq. who, at various times, gave £5,000 towards its erection, since which two wings have been added, and the hospital will now hold 190 patients, without restriction as to nationality. In 1887 additional buildings were erected, containing eight beds for sepecial cases and six for fever cases. During the year 1897 there were 1,624 in-patients and 7,787 outpatients. There is a Convalescent Home at Ditchling in connection with the Hospital, and there is also in connection with the Hospital ah Institute for trained nurses, at 4 and 5 Clevedon place, Eastern road, Brighton. Joseph Rutter M. D. consulting physician; Edmund Joseph Furner F. R. C. S. Eng. and Frederick Abell Humphrey F. R. C. S. Eng. consulting surgeons; William Ainsley Hollis M. D. H. S. Branfoot M. B. & E. Mackey M. D. physicians; J. F. Gordon Dill M. D. E. Hobhouse M. D. & E. F. Maynard M. D. assistant physicians; Nathaniel Paine Blaker M. R. C. S. Eng. Willoughby Furner F. R. C. S. Eng. and Thomas Jenner Verrall surgeons; R. Black M. D. R. F. Jowers F. R. C. S. Eng. and F. J. Paley assistant surgeons; C. H. Bryant, house surgeon; T. Tulker Hart, assistant house surgeon; W. G. Savage, house physician; Rev. William H. Orton M.A. chaplain and secretary; Edwin Fenner, dispenser; Miss K. Scott, matron.

The Sea-side Convalescent Hospital, at Seaford, was established in the year 1860, for the purposes of affording sea air and bathing to poor convalescent persons: the present hospital was erected in 1874 and an additional wing added in 1889, and the buildings are now available for 107 inmates. W. Lomas M. D. hon. physician; Matthew Marriott, resident medical officer; Miss L. R. Reid, matron.

All Saints Convalescent Hospital, Meads, Eastbourne, a branch house of the all Saints Sisters of the Poor, 82 Margaret street, London, is a noble edifice of red brick, with stone facings, in the Domestic Gothic style, erected at a cost of £30,000, for the reception of patients requiring sea air and good nursing, and opened in 1869: the chapel was built in 1874, at a cost of £15,000: a subscription of £1 is yearly entitles to a subscriber’s letter, admitting a patient for three weeks: non-subscribers are admitted on payment of 10s. a week. A new building was opened in 1891, for 109 children, as a memorial to Harriett Brownkm Byron, foundress in 1851 of the all Saints community: the building, which cost about £12,000, is of red brick, with blue Staffordshire bands and carved stone work: the two chief rooms are the refectories, each 35 feet by 24, one for each sex: the ground floor comprises the babies' dormitories: in either wing are three day-rooms, one on each side being set apart for eripples, and affording views of the ocean and the Downs: there is also attached a small chapel, intended for use by the sisters only: the whole building contains about 130 beds. E. J. Wethered M. D. and Andrew Clark F. R. A. S. Eng. physicians and surgeons; John Hehry Ewart L. B. C. P. Lond. surgeon; T C. Foran L. D. S. Irel, hon. dental surgeon; George Thurlow, hon. sec. 52 Mortimer street, London W.

The Sussex Comity Lunatic Asylum, occupies an elevated position about one mile south-east from the Haywards Heath railway station, in grounds of about 245 acres; the building is in the Lombardo-Venetian style, and was opened for the reception of patients 35 July, 1859; in 1873 additions were made and continued till 1885, bringing the cost up to about £174,000: there is a chapel for the use of the officials and inmates; the number of patients in 1898 was 903. Charles Edward Saunders M. D. C. M. resident medical superintendent; Edwd. Brooking Cornish Walkes M. D., C. M. senior assistant medical officer; Charles Planck M.A. Camb. M. R. C. S. Eng. L. R. C. P. Lond, junior assistant medical officer; Rev. Edwd. Richd. Dale Little M.A. chaplain; Reginald Blaker, Lewes, clerk to the committee of visitors; Saml. Allen Mortlock, clerk to the Asylum.

Her Majesty's Prison at Lewes, begun in 1850, and opened in August, 1853, at afcost of £56,000, is built principally of the flints dug in the locality, with brick and stone dressings: in 1868, 182 additional sells were constructed at a cost of £12,600; it now contains 274 cells for males and 66 for females; the governor’s and chaplain’s residences, with entrance gates and lodges, form the front facade. Lieut.-Col. Henry Bevan Isaacson R. M. governor; Rev. Thomas Canon Kinchant, chaplain; William A. Dow M.D. surgeon; John Miles, clerk to the committee of visitors; Ernest T. Hall, storekeeper; William Grallop, chief warder.

Parliamentary Representation of Sussex

Sussex formerly returned four members in two divisions; but under the provisions of the “Redistribution of Scats Act, 1885,” it now returns six members in six divisions.

No, 1. The North Western or Horsham division comprises the sessional divisions of Horsham, Midhurst and Petworth and the parish of Crawley in Cuckfield sessional division.

No. 2.-The South Western or Chichester division comprises the sessional divisions of Arundel and Chichester and the parishes of Ashingdon, Findon, Storrington, Sullington, Thakeham, Warminghurst, Washington and Wiston in Steyning sessional division and the municipal borough of Chichester.

No. 3.-The Northern or East Grinstead division comprises the sessional divisions of Cuckfield (except so much as is comprised in division No. 1), East Grinstead and Uckfield (except so much as is comprised in division No. 5).

No. 4.-The Mid or Lewes division comprises the sessional divisions of Hove, Lewes (except so much as is comprised in division No. 5), Steyning (except so much as is described in division No. 2) and Worthing and the municipal borough, of Brighton.

No. 5.-The Southern or Eastbourne division comprises the sessional division of Hailsham, parishes of Alciston, Beddingham, Berwick, Bishopstone, Chalvington, Denton, East Blatchington, Glynde, Newhaven, Ringmer, Ripe, Seaford, Selmeston, South Haighton, Tarring Neville and West Firle in Lewes sessional division and the parishes of East Hoathly and Waldron in Uckfield sessional division.

No. 6.-The Eastern or Rye division comprises the sessional divisions of Battle, Burwash, Frant, Hastings and Rye, the municipal boroughs of Hastings and Rye, the ancient town of Winchelsea and the liberty of the Sluice and Petit Iham (non-corporate members of Hastings).

Military

The troops in this county are under the South-Eastern district; headquarters, Dover; Major-Gen. Sir H. M. L. Rundle K.C.B.

Chichester is the depot of the Regimental District No. 35, the Royal Sussex Regiment, 1st Battalion (35th Foot) & 2nd Battalion (107th Foot) & the 3rd Battalion (Royal Sussex Militia) which latter has its headquarters in the city. At Eastbourne is stationed the Sussex Artillery Militia Eastern Division Garrison Artillery.

Fairs & Markets

Arundel, May 14 & September 25, cattle & corn markets every alternate Thursday.

Battle, Nov. 22, for cattle & pedlery & Sept. 6 for sheep.

Bodiham, June 6.

Brighton, market days, Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday.

Burgess Hill, July 5, for sheep & lambs.

Chichester, “Sloe” fair, October 20; market day, Wed. for corn & alternate Wed. for cattle, sheep & pigs.

Chilldingly, for sheep, lambs & horses, July 23.

Crawley, May 8 & September 9 for horses & cattle.

Cross-in-Hand, November 19 for cattle.

Eastbourne, Old Town, October 11 for cattle.

East Grinstead, April 11 & December 11 for cattle & a fat stock show in December; corn market every alternate Thursday at the Crown Hotel & cattle market every alternate Thursday.

Findon, July 12 for lambs & September 14 for sheep.

Hailsham, cattle & sheep market on alternate Wednesdays.

Hastings, corn market Saturday.

Heathfield, market for corn, seed, hops & hop-poles at the Crown Inn, every alternate Thursday.

Hooe, May 1 for cattle.

Horsham, April 5, July 18 & November 17 & 27; cattle market for fat stock is held on Wednesday; corn market every Wednesday & poultry market every Monday.

Hurstpierpoint, corn market on Tuesday.

Lewes, May 6 for horses & cattle, July 20 for wool & September 21 & 28 for Southdown sheep; corn market every Tues. & stock market every alternate Tues.

Lindfield, April 1 for sheep & Aug 8 for lambs & cattle.

Littlehampton, May 26 for pleasure.

Mayfield, May 30 & November 13 for cattle & sheep.

Midhurst, April 6 & October 29 for cattle.

Petworth, May 1, September 4 & November 20.

Pevensey, cattle market every alternate Thursday, from the latter end of June to beginning of November.

Pulborough, Easter Tuesday for toys & pedlery; corn market every Fri. & stock market every alternate Mon.

Robertsbridge, September 25 for hops, cattle & horses cattle market every alternate Monday.

Rotherfield, June 18 & October 20.

Rye, corn & stock market every alternate Wednesday.

Steyning, October 11 for cattle; a fat stock sale every Wed.

Storrington, May 13 for cattle & horses & November 11 for cattle & pedlery.

Ticehurst, May 4 for cattle & October 7 for pleasure.

Uckiield, May 14 & August 29 for cattle.

Wadhurst, April 29 & November 1.

Sussex County Council

Local Government Act, 1888, 51 & 52 Vic. c. 41.

Under the above Act, the Eastern and Western divisions of Sussex, after the 1st April, 1889, respectively became separate and distinct administrative counties (sec. 46, 1-b), for the purposes of the Act, except certain boroughs, for which see below (a), each governed by a County Council, consisting of chairman, aldermen and councillors, elected in the manner prescribed by the Act (sec. 2).

The chairman, by virtue of his office, is a justice of the peace for the county, without qualification (sec. 46).

The police for each division of the county is under the control of standing joint committees of the Quarter Sessions and the County Councils, appointed as therein mentioned (sec. 9).

The coroners for the county are elected by the County Councils, and the clerk of the peace appointed by such joint committee, and may be removed by them (sec. 83—2).

The clerk of the peace for the county is also clerk of the County Council (sec. 83—1).

The administrative business of the county (which would, if this Act had not been passed, have been transacted by the justices) is now transacted by a joint committee of the respective County Councils.

(a) The following large boroughs are for the purposes of this Act administrative counties, called County Boroughs (sec.30), of which the municipal authority has the power of a County Council (sec. 31)-Brighton, Hastings.

The following Table shows the acreage under each kind of crop, and the number of horses, cattle, sheep and pigs in the County of Sussex, as taken from the Agricultural Returns 1897:

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SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT

SUSSEX is a maritime county, bounded on the west by Hampshire, on the north by Surrey, on the north-north-east by Kent, on the south by the British Channel.

This county contains, according to Templeman’s Survey, 1,416 square miles, and 1,140,000 acres, and the extent is 65 miles in length, and 26 in breadth; but, according to this calculation, the length is considerably under-rated, and the breadth as much augmented, which has been found by later, and more accurate surveys. Another calculation reduces the number of acres to 903,952; both confessedly erroneous. The true length of the county from Ensworth to Kent Ditch extends 76 miles; the medium breadth does not exceed 20 miles; the superficial contents amount to 933,360 acres, and the whole county contains upon an average, 2892 acres in each parish.

CLIMATE

The climate of this county on the south side of South Down Hills, is very warm, and exceedingly favourable to vegetation. Rut upon the exposed and bleak situation of the hills open to the south west, the winds are frequently so boisterous as to strip off the thatch from corn stacks, and the coverings from all thatched buildings; farmers have suffered great losses by these winds blowing the corn out of the ear at harvest, and the wheat especially, to the loss of 4l. per acre. These winds, when they are impregnated with saline particles, occasioned by the west wind beating the spray against the beach, destroy all hedges and trees; all the leaves, and in general every thing green, being turned brown. The hedges are cut by the spray on the side open to the wind in the same manner as if it had been done artificially. All buildings whatsoever in the district of the Downs, are therefore placed in a low situation, to shelter them from the damage occasioned by these winds.

NAME AND EARLY HISTORY

The South Saxons possessed this district; hence obviously originated its present name. The Romans gave the name of the Regni to the inhabitants. In the year 803, Egbert, King of Wessex, or the West Saxons, united it to his dominions. Egbert a few years after this was crowned king of England at Winchester.

POPULATION

The population of this county, according to the official returns of the year 1811, amounted to 94,188 male inhabitants, and 95,895 females; making a total population of 190,083.

RIVERS AND CANALS

The principal in this county are the Arun, the Adur, the Ouse, and the Rother. The Arun rises in St. Leonard-s forest near Horsham, and running a few miles westward turns due south, and passing by Arundel, falls into the British Channel about three miles south of it. This river, by an act of parliament passed in 1733, had a new outlet cut for it, in order to in prove its navigation, and now it carries ships as high as Arundel of about an hundred tons burden.

The Adur, which is sometimes called the Beeding, rises also in St. Leonard’s Forest, and running almost parallel to the Arun, passes by Steyning, and Bramher, from whence it is likewise called Bramber Water; it discharges itself into the British Channel at New-Shoreham.

The Ouse is chiefly formed of two branches, one rising in the forest of St. Leonard, near the spring of the Adur, and the other in the forest of Worth, north of Cuckfield; and these two streams uniting not far from Cuckfield, run south by Lewes, and falling into the British Channel form a harbour, called Newhaven, about seven or eight miles south of Lewes. This river between Newhaven bridge and Lewes was navigable only for small barges at particular times of tide, but by widening, deepening, and some new cuts, it is now constantly navigable for boats of larger burthen, to within five miles east of Cuckfield.

Other less considerable rivers in this county are the Lavant, the Cuckmere, the Ashbourn, and the Asten; all which, as well as the rivers whose courses have been described, are confined within the limits of Sussex.

In the river Arun are caught vast quantities of mullets, which in the summer season come up from the sea as far as Arundel, in great shoals, and feed upon a particular weed here, which gives them a high and luscious taste, that renders them a great luxury. This river is also famous for trout and eel.

CANALS

The Earl of Egremont has made the river Rother navigable for boats, barges, &c. from a piece of ground called the Lower Plat, near Midhurst, through the parishes of Woolavington, Easebourn, Ambersham. Selham, Lodsworth, Tillington, Burton, Duncton, Petworth, Sutton, Coates, Egdean, Fittleworth, Bury, Cold Waltham, and Stopham, to Stopham meadow, which is thence navigable to the river Arun near Stopham bridge. Another canal runs from the Rother near Stopham bridge to Haslingbourne bridge in the parish of Petworth.

The river Ouse, between Newhaven bridge and Lewes, previous to the canal act passed in 1791, was navigable only for small barges at particular times of tide; but by widening, deepening, and some new cuts, it has been made constantly navigable for boats of larger burthen. The great purpose of this canal was to drain the lands called Laughton Levels on the east of Lewes. By this canal all the neighbouring lands have been materially benefited, the embankments being continued on the east side of the river above Lewes bridge to Bushy brook; on the west side above Lewes bridge to the upper end of the New Cut; and on the north side of Glynd Sewer, from Sound to the Swall bank; and on the south side from Sound to the Cock field. The lands below Newhaven bridge are exempted from rates, and are to maintain their own walls.

The river Wey, which falls into the Thames at Weybridge, is navigable up to Guildford; in fact to Shalford, a small village two miles further. The New Cut from Stone bridge, about half a mile above Shalford, to connect the river Wey with the Arun, a distance of sixteen miles, proves a valuable and important navigation to this division of Surrey and Sussex. Another improvement in this vicinity, is the new and excellent turnpike road between Guildford and Horsham.

FISH AND FISH PONDS

The former is an object of much consequence in Sussex. The ponds in the Wealds are innumerable. The mill ponds algo raise very large quantities of fish; they are an object of sale. A Mr. Fenn, of London, long rented, and was the sole monopolizer of all the fish sold in Sussex. Carp is the chief stock; but tench, perch, eels, and pike are raised. Mr. Milward has drawn carp from his marl pits 251. a brace, and two inches of fat upon them, as he fed them with pease. The usual season for drawing the ponds, is either autumn or spring: the sale is regulated by measure, from the eye to the fork of the tail. At 12 inches, carp are worth 50s. and 3l. per hundred; at 15 inches, 6l.; and at eighteen, 8 or 9l. In Burton park is a fine reach of water, yielding carp, tench, perch, pike, &c. in great abundance.

Lord Egremont has several noble ponds for breeding, and others for fattening, one immediately under another, with streams running through them.

They are fished every third year, and the best reserved for the slews, but none sold.

AGRICULTURE

All the various soils of chalk, clay, sand, loam, and gravel are to be found in Sussex. The first is the universal soil of the South Down Hills; the second of the Weald; the third of the north part of the county; the fourth is found on the south side of the hills; and the last lies between the rich loam on the coast, and the chalk on the hills.

The soil of the South Down Hills varies according to the situation. On the summit is usually found (more particularly in the eastern part) a very fleet earth: the substratum is chalk, and over that we find a surface of chalk rubble, covered with a light stratum of vegelable calcareous mould. Sometimes on the summit of the downs there is only a light covering of flint, upon which the grass grows spontaneously. Advancing down the hills, the soil becomes of a deeper staple, and at the bottom is every where a surface of very good depth for ploughing. West of the river Arun, the soil above the chalk is very gravelly, intermixed with large flints. Between the rivers Adur and Ouse, a substratum of reddish sand is found, covered by a flinty surface. The usual depth of the soil above the chalk varies in almost every acre of land from one to twelve inches. The average between East Bourne and Shoreham, does not exceed five. West of Shoreham the staple is deeper, and between Arundel and Hampshire the soil is more so.

WASTE LAND

The wastes of this county are still very extensive. They are irregularly united by a chain which runs all through this part of Sussex from Hampshire to Kent, intersected in places by cultivated districts.

WOOD LAND

Sussex has long been celebrated for the growth of its timber, principally oak. No other country can equal it in this respect, either in quautity or quality. It overspreads the Weald in every direction, where it flourishes with a great degree of luxuriance. The soil, which is best adapted for raising this plant, is a stiff strong loam, upon a red brick earth or clay bottom. Large quantities of beech are raised upon the chalk hills, which tree also flourishes in great perfection. The great demand for oak bark, during the late war, was the cause of the large falls of oak, which has, in consequence of the high price of bark, risen so amazingly, that the fee simple of extensive and well-wooded tracks, has been paid by the fall of timber and underwood in two or three years. Upon some estates in the western part of the county, the value of oak has increased 100 per cent, in 12 years. When to this amazing increase in the value of wood, is added the more easy communication to sea-ports than formerly, from the improvements which have taken place in the roads, it is not surprising that the late falls have been so large, and that greater supplies have been brought to the dock yards than the country will be able in future permanently to supply. The quantity now standing, of a size fit for the royal navy, compared to what it has been within half a century, is inconsiderable; and as there is no regular succession in reserve, it must follow that the supply will annually grow less.

MANURES

Lime is used in considerable quantities in this county: farmers generally lay it on their fallows from 80 to 120 bushels, every fourth or fifth year, and some use it every third year.

As the chalk hills extend no farther eastward than East Bourne, in order therefore to supply the rest of the county, the chalk is shipped in sloops from the Holywell pits at Beachy Head, from whence it is carried to the Bexhill, Hastings, and Rye kilns, where it is burnt into lime.

Marling in this county has enriched numbers of the farmers. It is laid on the land from 10 to 1200 bushels per acre, but never repeated: the first two or three years the effect is scarcely seen; when there is any soil inclining to a reddish loam, upon that it answers best, or with a mixture of sand. The practice which is found to be most beneficial, is that of laying it during the winter upon a clover lay, to give the frost an opportunity of pulverizing and mellowing it. The general rule is to lay it on the ground in summer, ploughing it directly from 3 to 6 times for wheat. Chalk is used in the same manner as marl, and to a greater extent: the effects of it are visible for 50 years.

CATTLE

The breed of Sussex cattle and sheep, must unquestionably be ranked amongst the best in the kingdom. The South Down sheep possess advantages which cannot be controverted; and it cannot fail of impressing any person with a high idea of the breed of sheep and the value of the food, to view them grazing in the summer upon the South Downs. The number of the flocks seen at the same time in a small tract of land, instantly strikes any man of reflection as something extraordinary.

HORSES

The horses employed in the husbandry of this county have nothing in them deserving particular notice.

SHEEP

The breeds of sheep in this county are various. They consist of the West Country breed, (Hampshire, Dorsetshire, Somersetshire, on the western side of the county), so called from the South Down Hills, upon which they are fed. This breed overspreads the greatest part of Sussex, and is the original breed of the county, pure and unmixed with any other. This breed is distinguished by being polled, and more compact, as their legs are shorter, than either Dorset, Hants, or Norfolk; for long legged sheep have generally thin carcases; they are fuller in their haunches, and greatly outweigh the above-mentioned sheep proportionally to their size of carcase, since they are weighty in a small compass. The colour of the leg and face is various; the true colour is a dark speckled face, inclining to black; the whiter coloured breeds being almost universally allowed to be unthrifty and degenerate. Deep brown and black faces and legs, are much hardier; for white faces and legs do not stand the severities of winter in an equal degree, and they are moreover inclined to fall off in flesh; but a medium between both is the true colour, since black legs and faces not only produce lambs generally spotted about the carcase, but wool also liable to be so spotted, more especially about the head; and all black and dark coloured wool is thrown together by the staplers, and sold at half price, as it will take no dye; for although the quality of it may be equal, at the same time, it is only fit for particular purposes, as dark cloth.

COWS

The true cow has a deep red colour, the hair fine, and the skin mellow, thin, and soft; a small head, a fine horn, thin, clean, and transparent, which should run out horizontally, and afterwards turn up at the tips; the neck very thin, and clean made; a small leg, a straight top and bottom, with round and springing ribs; thick chine; loin, hips, and rump, wide; the projection of the round bone is a defect, as the cattle subject to this are usually coarse; shoulder flat, but the projection of the point of the shoulder not liked; the legs should be rather short; carcase not large; the tail should lie level with the rump; a ridged back bone; thin and hollow chines are great defects in this breed.

GENTLEMEN'S AND FARM HOUSES

Many of the noblemen and gentlemen’s seats in this county, are raised upon a splendid no less than a rational plan; in fact few districts can boast of more elegant structures than Sussex.

For farm houses and offices, stone is the usual material, wherever the quarries are conveniently situated; and as an excellent building stone is found in many parts of the county, the inhabitants have generally availed themselves of this advantage.

In the neighbourhood of the South Downs, one of the best kind of flints than can be met with is used in the construction of houses, farm houses, barns, stables, out houses, &c. Tile is much used as a lacing for houses, especially insinuations exposed to the inclemency of the west, or south-west winds; and in open and exposed situations effectually checks the fury of the storms, and preserves the inside of the house air-tight and dry. Stalls or sheds of flint, are also frequently contrived for the cattle. Sheep yards, or standing folds are very judiciously contrived on the South Downs; some of these are so arranged as to contain sheds all around, nine or ten feet in width. The average rent of farms, though there are several large ones, is 100l. a year.

The cottages in the Weald of Sussex are generally warm and comfortable, and many of them are built of stone; and on the downs with flints, so that the lower class of people are in much more eligible circumstances than in some other parts of England.

LEASES

Where leases are granted in this county, the covenants between the landlord and tenant, are, that the landlord shall find materials for all repairs, and different buildings, as posts, rails, gates, &c. The tenant, within four or five miles, must be at the expense of conveying those materials to his farm, and pay all costs of labour, except occasioned by fire, tempest, or extraordinary high winds. Where hops are grown, the tenant must agree to sow one crop of corn between the new and old crop of hops, when they are grubbed up, in order that one third of his farm shall be under tillage, and two thirds in meadow, pasture, and hops.

The landlord must also be at the expense of materials in their rough state, but all other charges must be defrayed by the tenant. In some cases brick and mortar are allowed.

All close fences, yards, stables, barns, and out houses in general, are to be repaired by the landlord. In some parts of the county the covenants are that no grass be ploughed up under 10l. penalty per acre; that the farm shall be in four regular laires, or divisions, to prevent the ground from being too much exhausted, and at the close of leases that one laire shall be left fallow, for the succeeding tenant; no coppice cut under twelve years growth, no trees lopped, &c.

TITHES

The mode of collecting is variable. In the western parts of the county, they are generally compounded for, at the average rate of 4s. 6d. in the pound. The lay impropriators compound by the acre. Wheat, 4s. 6d.; barley, oats, and pease, 2s. 6d.; pasture and meadow, 2s. per acre. These tithes on the whole are allowed to be moderate and very fair. In other parts of Sussex, tithes are higher, and fall with greater weight upon the occupier. About Cuckfield, wheat from 5 to 6s.; barley, 2s. 6d. to 3s. In many places they are taken in kind, as at Hailsham, &c. In the level of Westham, tithe on grazing land is 2s.; upon full rents of arable 1s. 4d. Upon which it is observed, that if this was general, there would be no complaint respecting the payment of tithes.

ENCLOSURES AND FENCES

The abundance of timber in this county has rendered it, with the singular custom of their shaws, one of the most thickly enclosed of any in the whole island. To such a degree has this been pursued, that if Sussex is viewed from the high lands, it appears an uninterrupted woodland. These shaws seem to consist of tall screens of underwood and forest, around many of the fields, many of which have been so wood-locked, that it is surprising how the corn ever ripened. As for fences, the quickset hedges at Goodwood, consisting of three rows of white thorn, which spread three or four feet at bottom, have long been spoken of for their neatness and beauty, but cannot be recommended to farmers in general.

IMPLEMENTS

The wheel plough, most common in Sussex, is the Kentish turn-wrest, and much advantage arises from its use for spring crops, on the downs sown upon a single earth. This is, however, a clumsy and unmechanical plough; but as it does well on steep hills, or for laying land to grass without a furrow, it is a great favourite in Sussex. —In the maritime part of Sussex, a one-wheeled plough is much esteemed, and is a much better constructed implement than the other. The wheel plough of Mr. Woods of Chidhamand the Rotherham plough from Yorkshire, have also been introduced. The harrows of Sussex are all well executed. The waggons here are excellent; the carts have nothing about them deserving either praise or censure, but are in general made for small loads, from sixteen to twenty-four bushels.

The broad share, an admirable tool, is used for cutting pea and bean stubbles, or fallows weedy, that do not require ploughing. The Suffolk farmer’s cart, with many other improvements, have been introduced by the Earl of Egremont, particularly the mole plough; horse hoes for beans are also used, and iron dibbles, invented by John Wynu Baker, in Ireland. Of scufflers, various sorts have been introduced at Petworth, with great success; Mr. Ducket’s skin coulter, was another improvement introduced by the Earl of Egremont, and adopted by a great number of farmers.

ROADS

The turnpike roads in Sussex are generally well kept; the materials are excellent, being whinstone, or the Kentish rag, broken into moderate sized pieces. Where this is not found the roads are not so good, though turnpikes are numerous, and tolls high. In some places in the east, they arc narrow and sandy; but from Chichester, Arundel, Steyning, Brighton, Bourne, and the roads to the metropolis, and the great cross road, near the coast, which connects them together, they are very good. The gravel or sea beach stuff keeps the cross roads, near the sea, in good order; but in the weald, the cross roads have long been among the worst that are to be found in any part of the island. Improvement, however, in Sussex, has been very great, for the present road from London to Horsham was made in 1756, before which time it was so execrably bad, that whoever went upon wheels, was forced to go round by Canterbury, which is one of the most extraordinary circumstances afforded by the history of non-communication in this kingdom. It is intended to make a new turnpike road from Lewes to Hastings; another from Horsham to Crawley and East Grinstead; and a third from Cuckfield to the Brighton road, at Bridge Farm.

MANUFACTURES

Those of Sussex chiefly consist of iron, charcoal, gunpowder, paper, &c. The iron stone pervades the greater part of the county; but the Scotch manufacture iron so much cheaper than we can, that its decay here is easily accounted for. The manufacture of charcoal, however, is still an object of some importance. Large quantities are annually sent to London by land carriage; the old method of burning, has long been laid aside, and that adopted recommended by the Bishop of Llandaffin making the charcoal, in iron cylinders so as to exclude the air, and preserve all the tar acid, extracted from the wood in the process of burning.

Gunpowder is manufactured at Battel. Every sportsman knows this; but the Dartford is stronger, and the quality superior. Sacks, blankets, and other articles are made in the work-houses, and assortments of linen and worsted yarn, cotton and stuff goods, though it deserves inquiry whether to promote manufactures in the work-houses, is founded in justice to the poor.

Paper is manufactured at Iping and other places; and at Duncton, Lord Egremont has a paper mill and a fulling mill; besides a mill for grinding oatmeal, supplying the neighbourhood with that useful article, which used to be had at a distance, and at a greater expense. Besides brick kilns, at many places, one of these was erected near Petworth, for supplying the West Indies. Potash is made at Bricksill Hill, for the soap makers of the town.

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS

These are comprehended in six rapes, a division peculiar to Sussex. These rapes are Chichester, Arundel, and Bramber, forming the western portion; and Lewes, Pevensey, and Hastings, the eastern. The rapes are subdivided into 65 hundreds, and comprehend 342 parishes.

Here are one city and eighteen market towns. It is in the diocese of Chichester, and province of Canterbury, and is included in the home circuit. Sussex sends twenty eight members to parliament, viz. Chichester, Midhurst, Arundel, Horsham, Steyning, Bramber, New Shoreham, East Grinstead, Lewes, Seaford, Hastings, Winchelsea, and Rye, two each, and two for the shire.

TITLES CONFERRED BY THE COUNTY

This county confers the title of Duke upon one of the King’s sons. Chichester is the see of a bishop, and gives the title of Earl to the Pelham family. The Howards are Earls of Arundel, and the Finches are Earls of Winchelsea. Hastings gives the title of Baron to the family of Rawdon Hastings, as Wilmington does to the Comptons, and Buckhurst to the Sackvilles, and Heathfield the same to the Elliots, and Tufton, that of Tufton to the Tuftons. The Earls and Barons of Bathurst derive their titles from Bathurst. Stanmore gives the title of Baron to the Pelhams, and Forle the same to the Gages; Selsea the same to the Peachys; Bolebrook the same to the Sackville Germain family; and Apsley the title of Apsley to the Bathursts.

QUARTER SESSIONS

FOR THE COUNTY OF SUSSEX.

The County Assizes are held at Horsham alternately with Lewes; at this place the quarter sessions are always held for the eastern division, or the Rapes of Lewes, Pevensey, and Hastings.