WILTSHIRE is a south-western inland shire to the south of the Thames, bounded on the north and north-west by Gloucestershire, on the north-east by Berkshire, on the south-east by Hampshire, on the south by Hampshire and Dorsetshire, and on the west by Somersetshire: its shape is that of an oblong, with irregular curves outwards on the east and west; it lies between 50° 55' and 51° 43' north latitude, and 1° 30' and 2° 22' west longitude; the area of the county is now reduced from 880,248 acres to 866,962, caused by the transfer (under the Local Government Board Confirmation Acts, 1895—6) of the parishes of Kemble, Poole Heynes and Somerford Heynes, with a total of 6,144 acres, to Gloucestershire, and those of Plaitford, West Wellow, Whitsburg, Damerham, Martin, Toyd Farm, Melchett Park and part of Bramshaw, with a total of 16,133 acres, to Hampshire, while the parishes of Grasper, Kilmington and Yarnfield, with combined area of 5,266 acres, were assigned to this county from Somersetshire, and the parts of the parish of Shalbourne (consisting of the tithings of Oxenwood and Bagshot), formerly in Berkshire, was also transferred to this county. The greatest length from north to south is 54 miles, and the greatest breadth from east to west is 37 miles. The population at various periods has been as follows:-1801, 183,820; 1811, 191,853; 1821, 219,574; 1831, 237,244; 1841, 256,280; 1851, 254,221; 1861, 249,311; 1871, 257,177; 1881, 258,965; and in 1891, 264,997 viz: males, 130,662, and females, 134,335. Number of houses: inhabited 57,464, uninhabited 4,047 and building 270.

Wiltshire seems to takes its name from Wilton, the town on the Wiley: it was first held by the Britons. The Romans, under Vespasian, took the country and built many towns, and laid out roads. Sorbiodunum (Old Sarum) seems to have been of some note. The West Saxons fought with the Britons many battles and in 501 Cerdic beat their king Nathanleod; it was not, however, till about 577 that they drove the Britons from South Wilts. In 591 there was a great slaughter of the Welsh at Wodensbury, or Wanborough, near Swindon. In 715, Ina, King of the West Saxons, and Choired, King of the Mid-English, fought at the same place. In 871 King Alfred fought with the Danes at Wilton, and was beaten; in 878 they burned Chippenham, but he afterwards beat them at Eddington. In 995 the Danes from East England overran North Wilts, and again in 1003, 1006, 1010, 1015 and 1016. In the Parliamentary war there was a battle in 1643 on Roundway Down, and the castles and towns of Salisbury, Marlborough, Devizes, Malmesbury, Ludgershall, Warminster and Wardour were besieged.

There are a great many antiquities in Wilts, whereof some are British, some Roman and some Saxon. Stonehenge is a circle of rough stones on Salisbury Plain, and there is another at Avebury, or Abury.

Wansdyke is a great earthern wall, with a ditch on the north side, stretching across Wiltshire for nearly 20 miles from Bath to Marlborough. Old Ditch, 11 miles long, runs from Knooke to Durnford. Grimsdike and Bokerley dike are south of Salisbury, together about 12 miles long.

Of the camps are Ogbury, near Stonehenge, and another near Ogford; Whitesheet hill; Winklebury, or Vespasian’s camp, near Amesbury; Liddington Castle, on Beacon hill, near Chiseldon; Purton camp; others on Eastern hill and Pewsey hill; Battlesbury; Bishopstrow; Yarnbury Castle, near Fisherton Delamere; East Castle, and Bilbury, near Wiley; Whitesheet Castle, near Mere; Barbury, near Broad Hinton; Castle Combe, Shrewton, near Orcheston; Chisbury, near Little Bedwin; Redhorn, near Wilford; Castle Rings, near Donhead St. Andrew; Chisenbury and Lidbury, near Batshill; Soldiers’ Ring, near Bokerley Ditch; Clearbury Ring, near Oldstock; Scratchbury; Cotley and Knooke, near Heytesbury; Oldbury, in Codford St. Mary; Clerbury Camp, in Downton; Cherhill, with a white horse cut on the down; Whiten Hill, near Longbridge Deverill; Groveley, near Rolston; and Whitchbury.

There are other buries, or barrows, at Casterley, Badbury, Haselbury, Silbury, Alderbury, Tisbury, Whitsbury, Ramsbury, Wilbury, Bury Hill, near Purton, Strawbury, Sidbury, Fosbury, Rowbury, Bury Court, Banbury, Clitsbury, Busbury, Bluebury, Chiselbury, Upperbury, Charlbury, Buryscroft, Long Barrow near Tilshead, Long Barrow near Tidcombe, Long Barrow near Edington, Silver Barrow, White Barrow, Kill Barrow, Handbarrow, Ellbarrow, Twinbarrow, Kingbarrow, Bowles Barrow, Heytesbury and Knook Barrow; Knighton Long Barrow, Durrington; Godsbury, near Easton.

The Roman settlements include Marlborough, Malmesbury, Heytesbury, Amesbury, Westbury, Wanborough, Goldborough, Brokenborough, Woodborough, Spittleborough, Oldborough, Rowborough, Bradford, Codford, Endford, Wilsford, Manningford, Woodford, Durnford, Bulford, Ford, Wivelsford, Endford, Stoford, Dunsford, Wishford. Stapleford, Langford, Barford, Ugford, Deptford, Axford, Dodford, Malford, Somerford, Slausrhterford, Quemerford, Clatford, Ilford, Britford, Blackford, Milford, Warneford, Maidford, Landford, Stratford, Plaitford, Allenford, Bourton, Burcombe, Overton, Overtown, Idover, Over Street, Oare and Stoneover.

There are remains of the feudal castles of Devizes, Old Sarum, Castle Coombe, Farley, Ludgershall and Malmesbury; of the abbeys of Malmesbury, Laycock and Kingswood; of the priory of Bradenstoke and the nunnery of Kington St. Michael. The finest building is Salisbury Cathedral Bowood, Longleat, Wilton, Charlton House, Stourhead, Clarendon Park, Tottenham Park, Longford Castle, Corsham House and Trafalgar House are among the seats of the nobility.

The line of north downs from Inkpen Beacon running westward forms the northern boundary of Salisbury Plain: in the south another line of downs runs across through Salisbury, and the eastern boundary of the Plain is formed by some low hills in the west of Hampshire and the western by a similar ridge in Somerset and along the vale of Blackmore. The great cluster of Marlborough Downs lies in the north-east to the south of Swindon. The climate on the downs is healthy, but the air is cold and sharp: in the north-west it is milder. North-east Wilts is drained by the feeders of the Thames, North-west Wilts by those of the Severn, and South Wilts by the heads of the Salisbury Avon.

Salisbury Plain, which extends from the north of Salisbury for about 16 miles or a little south of Pewsey and from east to west for some 20 miles from Ludgershall on the east to Westbury on the west; it is bounded on all sides by ridges of hills, and consists chiefly of chalk downs about 400 feet above sea level: the river Avon intersects it from north to south, and on its banks is the town of Amesbury. and almost the only villages which can be said to be situated on the plain; the War Department, acting under powers conferred on them by the Military Lands Act, 1892, 55 & 56 Vict. c. 43, have made arrangements to acquire the proprietary rights over a tract of land on each side of the river Avon, and extending 15 miles east to west from Ludgershall to West Lavington and 6 miles from north to south from Upavon to Bulford and including the villages or hamlets of Bulford, Milston, Figheldean, Netheravon, Fittleton, Enford and West Chisenbury on the Avon and North and South Tidworth to the east, the general portion of the ground being upland downs, and it is intended to use this space for military manoeuvres: besides the river Avon flowing through the centre, the river Bourne runs across the eastern side by Tidworth, and the district lies exactly north of and about 2 miles distant from the town of Amesbury.

The total area so far acquired is 32,055 acres, the cost being £396,576, and there are about 6,150 acres still to be acquired which will bring the total value up to £475,000.

In the north rise the Thames head, Flagham brook, and Swill brook, joining the Churn, or true Thames, near Cricklade; it then flows along the north border of Wilts, taking the Key, or Ray and the Cole. The Key, which is a mill-stream about 16 miles long, rises in the hills near Wroughton, passes near Swindon and joins the Churn near Cricklade; the Cole, which is 13 miles long, rises to the east of the Key and flows towards Lechlade; the Kennett rises near Wroughton, within Marlborough Downs, flows south, then east to Marlborough and so past Hungerford to Reading and the Thames: at Marlborough it receives the Ogbourn, near Ramsbury the Aldburn, and near Hungerford a brook: the Kennett flows for 20 miles through Wiltshire.

The north, or Bristol Avon, rises in the Cotswold Hills in Gloucestershire, enters Wiltshire near Luckington, and flows east to Malmesbury, where it takes the Tetbury brook 9 miles long; it then flows south to Chippenham: near Chippenham, the Marden, 10 miles long, flows in from Caine; the Avon flows south to Melksham, where a feeder from Devizes 13 miles long, flows in; from Melksham the course of the Avon is south-westerly by Bradford towards Bath, and so to the Severn below Bristol: the Mere, from Trowbridge flows in near Bradford. The feeders of the Frome rise near Warminster, and that stream joins the Avon below Bradford.

The Salisbury Avon is formed by five arms spreading over South Wilts-the Ebele, the Nadder, the Wiley, the Avon and the Bourne; the Ebele flows along the south border from east to west, and falls into the Avon below Salisbury; the Nadder, 18 miles long, rises near Shaftesbury, under the name of the Don, and flows east to Wilton, where it joins the Wiley; the Wiley or Willy, rises under the name of the Deverill near Mere, flows north towards Warminster, and past Heytesbury, below which a small bourn, 6 miles long, flows in; the Wiley, near Wilton, joins the Nadder, and then flows to the Avon at Salisbury, being 27 miles long; the Avon rises near Devizes, in North Wilts, and keeps a southerly direction, taking near Rushall the Pewsey stream, and so going past Amesbury to Salisbury; the Bourne rises in the middle downs to the north of Ludgershall, and flows southerly for 23 miles to Salisbury; below Salisbury the Avon, after taking the Ebele, flows into Hampshire, and so towards the sea at Christchurch; its whole length in Wiltshire is 41 miles. Near Mere some of the feeders of the Dorsetshire Stour rise. None of the Wiltshire rivers are of much use for navigation, but they turn mills and feed the canals.

Wiltshire has in the north three great lines of canal The Thames and Severn Canal skirts the north border, passing by Cirencester, Cricklade and Lechlade. The Kennett and Avon Canal passes through the middle of Wilts, by Hungerford, Devizes and Bradford and near Trowbridge, to Bath and Bristol. The Wilts and Berks Canal joins the above south of Melksham, and then is itself joined to the Thames and Severn Canal by a branch between Cricklade and Swindon. North Wilts is thus well provided with canals. South Wilts is almost destitute of canal service.

The county is supplied with railways mainly by the Great Western system, whose lines cross and control the centre and northern part of the county, while the London and South Western cross the southern portion and with the Midland have a joint line running up the eastern side. The Great Western carries its main line into the county at South Marston, passing through Swindon (where they have the principal locomotive and carriage works), Wootton Bassett, Dauntsey, Chippenham and Box to Bath, while a second line which leaves the former one at Reading and joins it again at Bathampton enters the county at Hungerford and passes though Savernake, Devizes and Bradford. From Swindon a branch runs north to Highworth and another north-west to Kemble junction and thence to Stroud and Gloucester, with branches at Kemble to Cirencester and Tetbury, and others from Dauntsey to Malmesbury and from Chippenham to Calne: from Chippenham also a branch goes south-west to Melksham, Trowbridge and Westbury, where it meets the line which comes from Romsey through Salisbury, Wilton and Heytesbury, and a line is carried from Westbury to Frome: there is also a short branch from Savernake to Marlborough, and by using their running powers over this and connecting Cricklade and Swindon with Marlborough, and Andover, Weyhill and Lodgershall with Savernake, the Midland and London and South Western railways worked a joint line from Andover to Cirencester: they have now (1898) constructed a straight line of railway between Savernake and Marlborough and run through on their own joint line: the Midland have no other connection with the county, but the London and South Western railway have their main line from Andover through Salisbury, Wilton, Samby, &c. on to Exeter, and a branch from Salisbury through Downton to Bournemouth. The Great Western have two new lines in course of construction, one from Stert to Westbury, the other from Wootton Bassett, south of Malmesbury, to the Severn Tunnel, and projected light lines from Pewsey to Upaven and from Salisbury to Amesbury, but these are not yet carried out.

The average yearly rainfall for the whole county of Wilts may be taken at about 30 inches yearly, which is less than that of the adjoining districts on the south and west. Theline of chalk downs intercepts the southerly and south-westerly winds, and causes some of their moisture to descend as rain; still the rainfall is not so great as in Dorset to the south, or in Devon or Cornwall further west.

The absorbent nature of the rock causes the surface of the chalk country to be almost dry, but by deep wells water of excellent quality, though of considerable hardness, may everywhere be obtained.

The north and west parts of Wilts belong to the oolite formations, and the rest to the chalk. The line separating these two divisions may be taken through Swindon, Caine and Westbury to Hindon. A small portion of oolite comes, in at the south-west, between Sembly and Tisbury.

The chalk district is divided into two by the vale of Pewsey, or that in which the heads of the Salisbury Avon rise, and which belongs to the greensand. The northern chalk district is that of Marlborough Downs, and the southern that of Salisbury Plain. The southern formation is broken by three faults where the chalk has been laid bare, the upper valleys of the Salisbury Avon, the Wiley and the Nadder. Many of the hills on the Downs are very high. Inkpen Beacon, where the borders of Berks, Hants and Wilts come together, is the highest chalk hill, being 1,011 feet high. The Salisbury downs or plains form a high bleak ground, with scanty grass, and unpeopled, except in the valleys of the rivers, where the towns and hamlets lie close together.

On one of the hills at Alton Barns is the figure of a horse of vast size cut into the chalk, which can be seen at a great distance. There is a similar figure of a horse on the side of Bratton Hill, near Westbury: these are generally supposed to be of Celtic origin. At Cherhill, between Calne and Malmesbury, is a similar figure, but executed in modern, times.

The Greensand forms a broad strip skirting the chalk, by the south of Swindon; near Calne, Devizes, Market Lavington, Westbury, Warminster and Mere: it likewise crops out in the valley of the Nadder, between Hindon and Swallowcliffe. South and south-east of Salisbury we find beds of the Hampshire plastic clay, Kimmeridge clay, oolitic freestone, coral rag, calcareous grit, Oxford clay, cornbrash and forest marble, belonging to the upper, middle and lower oolite, crop out in strips beyond the greensand, forming the west and north-west of the county: these have many quarries of building stone. There are mineral springs in the Oxford clay. The hills in general do not rise above 400 feet high; but the highest, Alfreds Hill, near Stourhead, is about 800 feet high.

In South Wilts and North-East Wilts there is tillage only in the dales. The great downs are grazed by sheep, though in some places they have been broken up for tillage. North-West Wilts has a sub-soil of broken stone, with clay or reddish chalky loam lying upon it: here are richer soils, with much corn land, meadow and dairy ground; the grazing is for cows and oxen, and much cheese is made. The curing of bacon is carried on largely, principally at Calne, and many thousand pigs are slaughtered yearly. There is little market gardening.

Wilts yields limestone and freestone, chalk, marl, brick-earth, corn, oxen, cheese, sheep and wool.

Iron ore was raised in 1896 to the extent of 77,396 tons, valued at £23,219, and there are works with 2 furnaces for smelting at Westbury; the quarrying of limestone is a considerable industry, 143,681 tons being procured, valued at £49,542, besides 13,389 tons of sandstone, value £2,339, and 21,970 tons of clays, value £5,678.

Wilts was formerly a great seat of the clothing trade, but this has much fallen off, and in and around Bradford there are now only a few mills and looms. Trowbridge is the head of the broadcloth weaving, which is carried on there, at Bradford and Westbury; also wool dyeing. At Salisbury some boots and shoes are manufactured. At Melksham there are looms for hair-cloth weaving and sacking and cocoa-nut fibre works. At Chippenham broadcloth is woven. Silkthrowing is carried on at Warminster. At Malmesbury silk ribbon is made. Ropes and sacking are made at Marlborough. At Wilton are carpet works and a pianoforte felt factory. At Devizes portable engines are extensively made, and tobacco and snuff manufactured. There are malting and brewing in all the large towns.

Wiltshire is in the Western circuit, assizes being held at Devizes in winter and at Salisbury in summer, the autumn assize being at these places alternately, has one court of quarter sessions and is divided into 16 petty sessional divisions, in the province of Canterbury and mostly in the diocese of Salisbury, except the deaneries of Chippenham, Cricklade and Malmesbury, which are in that of Bristol, in the archdeaconry of Bristol. The other part forms two archdeaconries; Sarum, with the sub-deanery of Sarum and rural deanery of Wilton, deaneries of Amesbury, divided into Amesbury and Alderbury portions; Chalk, Chalk and Tisbury portions; Wyly, Wyly and Heytesbury portions; and Wilts, with the deaneries of Avebury, Avebury and Cannings portions; Marlborough, Marlborough and Pewsey portions; and Potterne, Potterne, Enford and Bradford portions. The civil parishes are 337 and parts of four others.

The municipal boroughs are: Calne, population in 1891, 3,495; Chippenham, 4,618; Devizes, 6,426; Malmesbury, 2,964; Marlborough, 3,012; Salisbury, 15,533 and Wilton, 2,120. Other towns are Bradford-on-Avon, 4,943; Cricklade, 2,027; Downton, 3,378; Melksham, 2,073; New Swindon, 27,295; Trowbridge, 11,717; Warminster, 5,563; Westbury, 6,014, and Wootton Bassett, 2,237. Many of these are very well built, and with good churches and town buildings. Salisbury is well known for its cathedral There is a large college or grammar school at Marlborough, and grammar schools in the large towns. There are no watering-places or towns of resort other than for the purposes of business. Swindon has large works of the Great Western railway.

The Registration Districts are: —

The Wilts County Lunatic Asylum, at Devizes, opened 19th September, 1851, is a structure of Bath stone, in the Italian style from designs by Mr. Thomas Henry Wyatt, architect; the site, which is within a mile of the Town hall, is considerably elevated above the level of the adjacent valley of the Avon, rather less so than the town of Devizes itself, and is well sheltered on the north-east and east by the hill of Etchilhampton; the asylum has been repeatedly enlarged since its first erection and will now hold about 855 patients. The land belonging to the Asylum consists of nearly 125 acres: John Ireland Bowes M. R. C. S. Eng, medical superintendent; Herbert Barraclough M. B. C. M. assistant medical officer; Rev. John Hart Burges D. D. chaplain; Edward Baverstock Merriman, treasurer; Joseph T. Jackson, clerk to the visitors; James Turner, clerk to the asylum.

Her Majesty’s Prison is at Devizes; it is of polygonal shape and was built in 1810: James Lindley Smith, governor; Rev. Arthur Charles Devas M.A. chaplain; Edward Nicolls Carless M. B. C. M. medical officer.

The Wilts Reformatory for boys is at Warminster and was certified December 23rd, 1856; the Rev. William Moore B.A. Kingston Deverell, corresponding manager; William Veritz, superintendent.

Parliamentary Representation of Wiltshire

Wiltshire formerly returned 4 members to Parliament in two divisions, but under the provisions of the “Redistribution of Seats Act, 1885,” it now returns 5 members in 5 divisions:

(1) The Northern or Cricklade division comprises the sessional divisions of Cricklade and Swindon.

(2) The North-Western or Chippenham division comprises the sessional divisions of Calne, Chippenham and Malmesbury.

(3) The Western or Westbury division comprises the sessional divisions of Bradford, Melksham, Trowbridge and Westbury, Warminster (except the parishes of Fisherton-de-la-Mere and Wily), and Whorwellsdown.

(4) The Eastern or Devizes division comprises the sessional divisions of Devizes, Marlborough, Everley and Pewsey (except the parishes of Figheldean and Milston), and the municipal boroughs of Devizes and Marlborough.

(5) The Southern or Wilton division comprises the sessional divisions of Hindon, Salisbury and Amesbury, the municipal borough of Salisbury, the parishes of Figheldean and Milston, in the sessional division of Everley and Pewsey, and the parishes of Fisherton-de-la-Mere and Wily, in the sessional division of Warminster.

Under the provisions of the above Act, the representation of the boroughs of Cricklade, Calne, Chippenham, Devizes, Malmesbury, Marlborough, Westbury and Wilton were merged into that of the county. Salisbury now returns only one member, and its boundary was enlarged.

Military

The troops in this county are in the Southern District command: headquarters, Portsmouth; Lt.-Genl. Sir J. Davis K.C.B commanding Devizes is the depot of Regimental District No. 62, the Duke of Edinburgh’s (Wiltshire Regiment), which is comprised of the 1st Battalion (62nd Foot), 2nd Battalion (99th Foot), & the 3rd Battalion, the Royal Wiltshire Militia, the latter having their head quarters at Devizes.

The Volunteer Battalions are the 1st (1st Wiltshire) at Warminster & the 2nd at Chippenham.

Volunteer Infantry

Western Counties Brigade.

Comprising 1st Volunteer Battalion Somerset Light Infantry, 1st-Volunteer Battalion Gloucestershire Regiment, 2nd Volunteer Battalion Worcester Regiment, 1st Wiltshire Rifle Volunteer Corps & the 2nd Volunteer Battalion Wiltshire Regiment, Supply Detachment & Bearer Company Head quarters, Lower Bristol road, Bath Place of assembly, Bath.

Fairs And Markets

Great Bedwyn, July 26 & 27, for pleasure.

Bradford-on-Avon, Trinity Mon. for cattle, horses & pedlery. Market day, sat. for provisions.

Bradford Leigh, first Mon. after August 24, except when Mon. falls on the 24th, then on that day.

Britford, August 12, for sheep & cattle.

Castle Combe, May 4.

Chippenham, market, second Fri. in every month for cheese & cattle; fourth Fri. for cattle; last Fri. in June for wool & a corn market every fri.

Corsham, March 7 for cattle.

Cricklade, market for fat cattle the third Tues. in every month.

Devizes, February 14, April 20 & 21 & October 20 & 21, for sheep, cattle, toys & pedlery. Market day Thur. & a monthly cheese market.

Downton, April 23 & October 2, for horses, sheep & cattle.

Highworth, August 13 & October 11, for cattle & hiring.

Hinden, May 27 & October 29 Ludgershall, July 25.

Malmesbury, market third Wed. in every month for cattle.

Marlborough, August 22 & November 23 & sats. before & after Old Michaelmas day for hiring servants. Market day sat. for corn, cheese & cattle.

Melksham, July 27, for cattle, sheep & horses. Market, alternate Tues. for cattle, sheep & pigs.

Pewsey, a feast is held on the Monday & Tuesday after the Sunday nearest to Holy Cross.

Purton, Tues. before May 6 & Fri. after September 19.

Ramsbury, May 14 & October 16 for cattle.

Salisbury, Mon. before April 5 & first Tues. after October 10; a large sheep fair July 15. Corn market Tues.; cattle market every alternate Tues. & a cheese market the second Thur. in each month.

Swindon, second Mon. after May 11 & second Mon. in December; Statute fairs for hiring servants, first Mon. after April 5 & second Mon. after September 11. Market every Mon. for pitched corn & every second & last Mon. for fat cattle.

Trowbridge, August 5, 6 & 7 for pleasure. Market days, Tues. & sat. & cattle market on alternate tues.

Warminster, April 22, August 11 & October 26th; corn market every sat.

Westbury, for sheep first Tues. in September.

Wilton, May 4 for horses & September 12 for cattle & sheep, the latter being one of the largest sheep fairs in the West.

Wootton Bassett, Tues. before April 6 & Tues. before October.

11 for hiring. Market first Wed. in every month for cattle.

The following table shows the acreage under each kind of crop, and the number of horses, cattle, sheep and pigs in.

Wiltshire, as taken from the Agricultural Returns, 1897: —

Wilts County Council

Local Government Act, 1888, 51 & 52 Vic. c. 41.

Under the above Act Wiltshire, after the 1st of April, 1889, tor the purposes of the Act, became an administrative county (sec. 46), governed by a County Council, consisting of chairman, Aldermen and councillors elected in manner prescribed by the Act (sec. 2).

The chairman, by virtue of his office, is a justice of the peace for the county, without qualification (sec. 46).

The police for the county is under the control of a standing joint committee of the Quarter Sessions and the County Council, appointed as therein mentioned (sec. 9).

The coroners for the county are elected by the County Council, and the clerk of peace appointed by such joint committee, and may be removed by them (sec. 83—2).

The clerk of the peace for the County is also the clerk of the County Council (sec. 83—1).

The administrative business of the County (which would, if this Act had not been passed, have been transacted by the justices) is transacted by the County Council.

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SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT

THIS county is situated in the province of Canterbury, in the diocese of Salisbury, and contains 29 hundreds 1 city, and 25 market towns. It is bounded on the north-west by Gloucestershire; on the north-east by Berkshire; on the west by Somersetshire; on the south by Dorsetshire, and on the south-west by Hampshire. According to M. T. Davis, Wiltshire extends in its extreme length, 54 miles, and in breadth 34 miles, and contains about 878,000 acres.

CLIMATE AND SOIL

The air of Wiltshire, like that of other counties, is various, according to the different parts of it, but on the whole it is salubrious and agreeable. On the downs, and higher parts of the county, it is sharp and clear; in the vallies, mild, even in winter. The face of the country is much diversified in appearance: the northern part, called North Wiltshire, consisting of a rich tract of low land, accompanied by gentle risings, and ornamented by many fine natural streams of water, and handsome canals. The middle part is that known by the name of Salisbury Plain, consisting chiefly of downs, which afford a most excellent pasture for sheep. The south-east portion of the county is in a great part overspread by a broken range of chalk hills, covered, however, with a very fertile soil, and in the highest state of cultivation.

The soil of the north-west district, though not so uniform as that of South Wilts, may, nevertheless, be reduced to a few leading features, and those, in general, may be better defined by a description of the substrata, or under-soils, than by any peculiar characteristics of the upper stratum, or top mould.

The cold sharp air of the Wiltshire downs, is so well known, as to be almost proverbial. The height of the hills, and their exposure to the south-west wind, from the Bristol and British channels, the want of enclosures in the vallies, and the draught of air that necessarily follows the rivers, undoubtedly contribute to make the south-east district healthy both for man and beast; but the length of the winter consequent to such a situation, is certainly unfavourable to many of the purposes of agriculture. The climate of the northwest district is various and though in general milder than the high lands in the South-east District, is nevertheless cold and unfavourable to the purposes of early spring vegetation, probably owing to the cold retentive nature of the under soil here.

NAME AND ANCIENT HISTORY

This county in the time of the Romans was part of the territories of the Belgæ. It is supposed that the northern part was inhabited by that tribe of the Belgæ which was distinguished by the name of Cangi; and in the time of the Saxon Heptarchy it constituted part of the kingdom of the West Saxons. It derives its present name from the town of Wilton, which was formerly the most considerable place in the county.

Population. —The Census of the year 1811, gives 37,244 inhabited houses; 91,560 males; 102,268 females; making a total of 193,828 persons.

RIVERS

The principal rivers are the Thames, the Upper Avon, the Lower Avon, the Nadder, the Willey, the Bourne, and the Kennet.

The river Thames enters the north part of the county between Cirencester in Gloucestershire and Tetbury, and runs eastward by Crieklade into Berkshire.

That part of the Avon called the Lower Avon, enters Wiltshire, near Malmsbury, takes a southern course by Chippenham, where it becomes enlarged by the Calne and other rivulets into a wide stream, and winding westward by Melsham and Bradford, it leaves the county, and pursues its course through Somersetshire and Gloucestershire towards Bath.

The Upper Avon rises among the hills in the middle part of the county, near Devizes, runs southward by the city of Salisbury, where it receives the united streams of the Willey and the Nadder; from hence it flows into Hampshire, and at Christchurch makes its exit into the British Channel.

The Nadder, which derives its name from the Saxon word Nœdre, an adder, alluding to its serpentine course, rises near Shaftesbury, in Dorsetshire, upon the western borders of this county, and flowing north-east falls into the Willey at Wilton.

The Willey rises near Warminster, and running south-east, after receiving the Nadder falls iuto the Upper Avon on the east-side of Salisbury.

The Kennet rises near the source of the Upper Avon, and runs eastward by Marlborough, into Berkshire.

The lesser rivers of the county are the Calne, the Were, and the Deverill. This last is remarkable for the circumstance of its diving under ground (like the Guadiana in Spain, and the Mole in Surry, which take their name from a similar peculiarity) and rising a mile off pursues its course towards Warminster.

CANALS

These are first the Thames and Severn canal, passing through a small part of the extreme south boundary of the county; 2. The Kennet and Avon canal, from the river Kennet at Newbury, in Berks, to the river Avon at Bath, passing through the heart of the county by Devizes and Bradford. 3. The Wilts and Berks canal, which enters the county from Berkshire, near South Marston; this passes by Swinden and Wooton Basset, and by branches to Chippenham and Calne, extends southward to Melksham, and near this place unites with the Kennet and Avon. Previous to the forming of these canals, the certainty of obtaining coals for money was doubtful.

FISHERIES

This being an inland county, it has no particular fishery; its rivers, however, abound in various kinds of fresh-water fish.

MINES AND MINERALS

There are no mines in this county, nor any mineral production requiring particular notice. The substratum of a great part of the county is chalk; that of the residue is free-stone and lime-stone.

At Chilmark near Hindon, there have been stones of immense size dug out of the quarries, lying in beds 60 feet long, and 12 feet thick, without a flaw.

In the parish of Box, about seven miles from Chippenham, upon the road to Bath, there are quarries of that beautiful stone, called the Bath stone, great quantities of which are dug up and sent to various parts of the country.

MANUFACTURES

The extent of these in Wiltshire, is very great: but the woollen manufactory is by far the most general.

Salisbury has long been used to manufacture great quantities of flannels and fancy woollens; and has had a considerable manufactory of cutlery and steel goods. Wilton, a large manufactory of carpets and fancy woollens; Devizes, the latter, Bradford, Trowbridge, Warminster, Westbury, and all the adjacent towns and villages from Chippenham to Heytesbury inclusive, have carried on extensive woollen manufactories, principally of superfine broad cloths, kerseymeres, and fancy cloths, linen, chiefly dowlass and bed ticks have been made at Mere; fustians and thicksets, principally at Aldbourn; gloves, &c. at Swindon, and in its neighbourhood; but the whole of these have been more or less affected by the late transition from war to a state of peace.

AGRICULTURE

In describing the agriculture of Wiltshire we shall pursue Mr. Davis’s division of the county into two districts, formed by drawing an irregular line round the foot of the chalky hills, from their entrance into the north-east part of the county from Berkshire to the south-west extremity at Maiden Bradly, thereby including the whole of the Wiltshire Downs, under the name of South Wiltshire, or perhaps more properly, South-East Wiltshire, and the remaining part of the county, North, or more properly, North-West Wiltshire. The general application of the south-east district is to corn-husbandry, and sheep-walks. The north-west district is remarkable for its rich pasture land on the banks of the Down, Avon, and the Thames, famous for the feeding of cattle and still more so for the most excellent kind of cheese this island can boast.

A great number of Wiltshire members, help to compose that truly respectable body, “The Bath and West of England Society.” The great design of the Board of Agriculture, is to point out every object of improvement throughout the kingdom, and upon the whole, the farmers of Wiltshire have not been the slowest to adopt them. The science of agriculture is nothing more than to discover, and cure nature’s defects; and the grand outlines of it, are how to make “heavy land lighter,” and “light land heavier,” “cold land hotter,” and “hot land colder.” He that knows these secrets is a farmer, and he that does not know them is no farmer.

WASTE LANDS

The idea that the Wiltshire Downs (and particularly Salisbury Plain) are all “waste lands,” is so general, that few who have travelled over them, especially from Devizes to Salisbury, will believe the contrary. The Wiltshire Downs are undoubtedly not “waste land.” and although many inconveniences attend their present mode of occupation, yet as a great proportion of them cannot be improved by tillage, it is doubtful whether they would produce more food if laid in severalty, than they now do in their present hard stocked state; the very nature of their herbage making these downs sweeter for sheep when close fed, than if trained up like richer pastures. “Common fields,” it has been observed, “may be called the worst of all wastes.” Common pastures may, in some instances, be made the most of by mutual agreement, without a division, but the common fields can never be cultivated with any improvement of the land, or serious advantage to the occupier.

COW COMMONS, OR COW DOWNS

These are frequently in the undivided parts of the north-west district, but not general. They were more general formerly than now; many of them having been, at different times, turned into sheep-commons by consent of the commoners. These cow-downs are usually the best and most level parts of the down-lands, and are sometimes worth from 5s. to near 10s. per acre.

The common herd of cows begin to feed the cow downs early in May (usually Holy-Rood-Day), and finish when the fields are clear of corn. At the beginning and end of the season, they are driven to the down in the morning, and brought back in the evening; but in the heat of summer, they are only kept on the down during the night, and in the morning they are brought back into the villages, where they feed the lanes and small marshes by the river side (if such there be), till after the evening milking. When the stubble-fields are open, the cows have a right to feed them jointly with the sheep; and if there are commom meadows (whether watered meadows or not), they have an exclusive right to feed them, till the end of the commoning season (usually St. Martin’s Day), 11th November, O. S.), when the owners take them home to the straw-yards. After the cows leave the cow-down, to go into the stubble-fields, it becomes common for the sheep-flock, during all, or a certain part of the winter, when it is again laid up for the cows.

FARM-HOUSES AND OFFICES

The situation and construction of these are less variable in South Wilts, than in many other counties. In general, they are crowded together in villages, for the convenience of water, and are therefore frequently very badly situated for the occupation of the lands. While the system of common-field husbandry existed in its original state, and every “yard-land” had its farm-house, its yard for cattle, its barns, and its stables, and the owner resided upon it—such a situation had its advantages, as well as conveniences. In the present state of that system, wherever the small farms are occupied by the owners, the buildings are usually kept in tolerable repair; but if three or four, or more of such estates, as is usually the case, are rented by one farmer, the consequence is, that all the farm-houses except the one he lives in, are left to labourers, and a great many of the outbuildings are suffered to go to decay; till lately, the villages of the district, in which the lands are not yet put into a state of severalty, have for the most part been seen in this neglected ruinous condition.

But within the last twenty-five years, the system of erecting new farm-houses, and buildings at a distance from the villages, has been practised in a most liberal manner, for the purposes of agriculture, by the Earl of Pembroke, and other great landholders. But from the natural situation of the south district, new pastures are not easily made in these distant spots, nor is water fit for domestic uses to be obtained without serious difficulties. So that a pretty general prepossession in favour of the ancient residence of man, with the advantages arising from rivers and old pastures adjacent, will prevent any great extent of this otherwise desirable alteration of the homesteads.

SIZE OF FARMS

The farms in severalty in the south-west district, or those not subject to the right of common, are in general from 150l. to 500l., and a few manor farms at 1000l. per annum, and upwards.

The tenantry yard-lands, or customary tenements, are in general from 25l. to 40l. per annum, and a few are as high as 50l. Some of these are still occupied singly by the owners as copyhold, or leasehold tenants, of the respective manors, although consolidations of them have been daily taking place for many years past, partly from the heavy expenses attending such occupation, and partly from their being allowed to fall into hand to save extraordinary buildings.

LEASES

The granting of leases in this county depends much upon soils and situations: the usual terms in the south-east district are sometimes seven years, oftener fourteen, now and then twenty-one; but of late, a term of twelve years has been thought the most eligible, as being more devisible into a regular course of sowing the arable land, and considering the disadvantages under which a Wiltshire down farm is too often entered upon, the term of a lease should never be less than twelve years. The tenant is bound to sow his lands in the course limited by the lease; to keep up a full flock of sheep, and fold them in due course of husbandry on some part of his premises; but in the last year, as the landlord shall direct, to spend all hay straw, &c. on the premises, to spread all the dung on the same, except the dung of the last year’s crop, and (if a Lady-Day bargain) the straw of the off-growing crop, which are to be left at the disposal of the landlord.

The general custom of a Wiltshire Lady-Day entry is, that the rent commences on Lady-Day, at which time the tenant enters upon all the grass ground, brings on his sheep and cows, and brings on the meadows for mowing. The usual time fixed for the entry of the new tenant, to carry out dung, and prepare for wheat, is in some parts on the 14th of May, and in others, the 24th of June.

The landlords are usually bound to repair the buildings, and the tenants the fences. The landlord puts the gates in repair, and the tenant being allowed rough timber, usually keeps them so. In some cases, a better mode is adopted, the tenant is allowed annually as many new gates as the farm is supposed to require, which he must put up and keep in repair. In some lettings, however, the tenant does all repairs of his farm, on being allowed timber, brick, tile, lime, and stone. The tenant in general is not allowed to sell hay or straw, but is obliged to expend the whole on the premises, in the south-west district, the enteries are various, some at Michaelmas, but more generally at Lady Day.

TITHES

These in Wiltshire are for the most part due in kind. There are few parishes in which they have been extinguished by enclosures; still fewer where any modus ex sts. Land, in some instances, has been given for tithes under enclosure acts, but the oblong shape of many of the manors renders this compensation disadvantageous to the land owners.

It makes a new farm, and by reason of the small quantity of home land, there is no room for the rector’s farm; the proportion of land due for corn tithes, taking so large a slice in an arable country.

The disputes respecting tithes, and dues in lieu of them, of which common report has said so much in former days, are now but little known here. Farmers begin to see the value of them, and clergymen have had confidence in professional men, to let them for moderate terms of years to their neighbours. There are numerous instances, in some parts of Wilts, where every occupier of land rents his own tithes of the clergyman, or impropriator. A mutual regard to their own interest, has effected this desirable object, and the same principle is likely to maintain it. The tithe composition is usually fixed about once in seven years, or oftener if there be a new rector; and although it be acknowledged, that a tenant can afford to give a high price for this portion of his own produce, rather than suffer it to go off his farm; yet it must be allowed that surveyors give the clergy a very liberal compensation.

The great tithes of a considerable part of South Wilts are in lay hands; in most instances let to the occupiers of the respective farms; in some, to a proctor, who takes a whole parish in kind. It has often been noticed, and particularly by the clergy, that laymen take up tithes more than churchmen. The fact is admitted, but the obvious reason should accompany the assertion. Small tithes require much trouble in collecting, and breed much ill-will in a village, particularly where the produce of the yard is taken from a farmer’s wife. Great tithes are collected here with peculiar ease, from the open state of the corn-fields, and the firmness of the soil to bear wheels at harvest. The interest of a farmer induces him to pay a handsome price for a part of his neighbour’s crop, which is thus brought to his barn at a trifling expense, and from which he is enabled to increase his produce by an extraordinary quantity of manure; whilst the same natural motive directs the clergyman to get rid of those difficulties which attach to a part of his dues, and if possible, to preserve the peace of his parish.

IMPLEMENTS

The ploughs used in this county, are chiefly of two kinds, viz. the hill country two-wheeled plough, with the point of the beam elevated, and swinging upon a brace between the wheels, and the draft chain fixed almost at the centre of the beam. The one wheeled plough, so made as to be used with a foot instead of a wheel, in case the land is so wet that the wheel clogs and will not run round. These ploughs are about eight feet, or eight and a half long in the beam, and have a long mould board set at a very acute angle, with the sole of the plough, and bent so as to turn down the furrow, or rather that the furrow may drop from it as flat as possible. Many attempts have been made to introduce the Norfolk, and other light ploughs, with the double furrowed plough, &c. but without much success. The Wiltshire men, however, have redeemed themselves from the charge of being bad ploughmen. Upon many light lands where ploughing is very little required, unless to destroy weeds, Mr. Cook’s instrument, called a scuffler, has been used with great success, particularly, preparatory for drilling. This will clean five or six acres of land per day.

HARROWS

The same kind of harrow is used in Wilts, and in nearly the same manner as in all the western counties. Two or three horses go abreast, each drawing a harrow diagonally, all the harrows being fastened together with a lay-over, or rider.

DRAGS, DRILLS, &c

A heavy kind of drag is used for cleansing the land, the tines of which are very strong, and nearly a foot in length. This drag is made oblong, and two of them are hooked together like two doors. As Wiltshire farmers are very cautious of ploughing their land too much, they use these drags very frequently as a substitute, and frequently let in their seed wheat with them. This practice having been found to answer, these drags have been considerably improved. In soils where the use of the hoe is of much advantage, Mr. Cook’s plough, so made as to be afterwards used for horse-hoeing is chiefly used.

FENCES

Stones and lime being generally scarce in this part of the country, most of the fence walls, and sometimes the walls of the stables, and out-buildings, are constructed with “mud,” viz. the chalky loam of the country mixed with short straw. The expense of these is trifling, seldom exceeding 10s. for a perch long, and six feet high. They are usually covered with straw.

ENCLOSURES

Enclosing in many parishes in the south-west district of Wiltshire, has been carried on to an extent, unequalled in many others since 1794. Many advantages have been derived from the enclosures alreadz bade, and greater still may be derived from enclosing, or, at least, dividing and putting in severally, those lanas that are yet in a state of commonage. But though every enclosure must have improvement for its object, the effects of different ones are various; in some, the population has been increased, in others, it has been diminished.

ROADS

There are few counties in the kingdom, in which burn ake roads are so numerous, as in Wiltshire. The great thoroughfare from the east and south parts of the kingdom and particularly from London to Bath and Bristol, and many other parts of the west of England, pass through this county. Ten principal turnpike roads of this description may be enumerated, viz. three from London to Bath and Bristol; two from Oxford to Bath and Bristol; three through Salisbury into Dorset, Somerset, Devon, and Cornwall; one from Portsmouth and Southampton to Bath; and one from Salisbury, through Devizes, to Oxford. To the credit of the county, it may be added, that the system of making and keeping their numerous turnpike roads in repair, is no where better known and practised than in Wiltshire. The private roads, like those of all other parts of the kingdom, are good or bad, in proportion to the plenty, or scarcity of materials. Till lately, those in the north part of the county, were bad to a proverb; however, the introduction of turnpike roads, not only stimulated the inhabitants to make good their approaches to them, but also enabled them to fetch materials for the purpose.

FUEL

Another great cause of the distress of the poor in many parts of the county, and particularly on the Downs, is the scarcity of fuel. Coals are advanced very considerably, and let the price of carriage be ever so much reduced by good roads, or even by canals, coals must still be dear in many parts of the county. Wood is the natural, and should be the depending fuel of a great part of Wiltshire. It is a melancholy fact, that without any particular acts of oppression on the part of the farmers, or of dissoluteness on the part of the poor, the labourers of many parts of this county, and of the south-east district in particular, may be truly said to be at this time in a wretched condition. The dearness of provisions, the scarcity of fuel, and above all the failure of spinning-work for the women and children, have put it almost out of the power of the village poor to live by their industry, and have unfortunately broken that independent spirit, which in a very peculiar degree, formerly kept the Wiltshire labourers from the parish books. The farmers complain, and with reason, that the labourers do less work than formerly, when in fact, the labourers are not able to work as they did, when they lived better.

MARKETS

Wiltshire is peculiarly fortunate in corn-markets; Warminster, Devizes, and Salisbury, have each a large proportion of dealers from the adjacent counties. Of these, and indeed of all the corn markets, Warminster ranks the highest. The universal custom of selling at a pitched market in the morning, and of receiving all the money the same day (generally before three o’clock), brings farmers frequently hither from a great distance. It is calculated that the quantity of corn and grain sold at Warminster market, amounts to 2000 quarters per week.

Bath and Bristol receive large supplies, especially of malting barley, from Warminster and Devizes.

Salisbury, as a cattle market, is one of the best and greatest out of London. Southampton and Portsmouth, and almost the whole of Hampshire, are supplied from this town; which is so situated as to take, not only the beasts intended for its own market, but large droves of cattle destined for London, which in a quick time are sold at Salisbury. The market-days are at Warminster on Saturdays, Devizes on Thursdays, Salisbury on Tuesdays, and a cattle-market on every other Tuesday, called the fortnight’s market. There are other towns in this county, which have pretty good markets, viz. Swindon for cattle, Marlborough for corn, cheese, &c. &c. As to the dairy productions, these are most commonly sent off to the factors in London, Bath, and Bristol. Butter, of a superior quality, and excellent cream, are sent into Salisbury from the adjacent water meadows of Britford, &c.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

Weights. —Butter usually sold by the pound which was formerly 18 oz., now generally weighs 16 oz. in this county.

Cheese is usually sold by the cwt. 112 lb. Fat cattle, particularly pigs, are usually sold by the score of 20lb.

Measures. —A bushel of corn was till a few years since, nine gallons and nearly a quart; but has since been generally reduced to the statute measure of eight gallons.

Wheat, beans, pease, and vetches, are usually sold by the sack of four bushels. Barley and oats are generally sold by the quarter of eight bushels. horses.

The horses used for agriculture in Wiltshire have long been considered improper for the work assigned them. In some few instances, improver ments have been made by introducing Suffolk stallions, thereby producing a smaller compact animal, and with a quicker step both in the field and on the road. Unfortunately the pride of stock has existed too long among the Wiltshire farmers.

COWS

The universal rage, for many years past, has been for the long-horned, or, as they are called, the ‘ north-country’ cows. The reasons given for the general introduction of this sort are, the nearness of their situation to the north country breeders, where they can get any quantity they want, at any time, cheaper than they can rear them in a country where land is in general too good, and rented too dear for that purpose; and, especially as, in consequence of the great demand for the Bath and London markets, calves will pay better to be sold for veal, than to be kept for stock.

The reasons given by the dairy farmers, for continuing this kind of stock, are that they can make more cheese from each cow; and that these cows will yield more, when thrown off to be fatted, than any other sort.

Many attempts have been made to supplant the long-horned cows, by introducing the Devonshire kind into this district. The comparative merits of the two species are very warmly contested.

Whatever may be the real comparative merits of the two kinds of cows for the dairy, there is not a doubt but the Devonshire kind are the most proper for fatting; and as to the oxen bred from the two kinds, it would be injustice to the Devonshire oxen, even to make a comparison between them.

SWINE

Pigs are looked upon to be a necessary appendage to every dairy farm; a great number are bred with the whey and offal of the dairy, and many fatted. Barley-meal, mixed with the whey, is the general fatting food. Pease are not so much used as formerly.

The kind of pig is generally a mixture of the long-eared white with the black African, or Negro pig, which cross has been found to be a very great improvement.

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS

This county is in the Province of Canterbury and Diocese of Salisbury, is comprehended in the Western circuit, and divided into twenty-nine hundreds, viz.

QUARTER SESSIONS, FOR THE COUNTY OF WILTS

Are held the First Week after Epiphany at Devizes. The First Week after the close of Easter at Salisbury.

The First Week after the Translation of Thomas-a Becket, or July 7, at Warminster.

The First Week after Michaelmas Day at Marlborough.

TITLES CONFERRED BY THE COUNTY

This county gives title of Earl to the Paulet family. Salisbury gives title of Marquis, to the family of Cecil. Marlborough gives title of Duke to the Spencer family. Malmsbury gives the titles of Earl and Baron to the Harris family. Calne gives the title of Viscount to the Petty family. Hindon gives the title of Baron to the Villiers family. Warminster gives the same title to the Thynne family. Caleton gives the title of Viscount to the Petty family. Foxley gives the title of Baron to the Fox-Strangeways. Stourton gives the same title to the family of Rawdon-Hastings. Lydiard Tregoze gives the same title to the St. John family. Longford the same to the Bouverie family. And Wardcur Castle gives the same title to the Arundel family.