CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS

Yorkshire is divided into twenty-eight wapentakes, besides the Ainsty of the city of York. The whole county contains one city and fifty-nine market-towns, of which thirteen are boroughs, and it sends thirty members to parliament.

POPULATION

This, according to the statement made in 1811, was as follows: 188,381 inhabited houses; males, 477,728; females, 495,380; total, 973,123 persons.

SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT OF THE COUNTY AT LARGE

Yorkshire is by much the largest county in England, and one of the most interesting, whether we consider its mercantile opulence, or its historical importance. It is in form a long square, containing more than three millions of acres, and divided into three distinct ridings, and is bounded on the north by Durham and Westmoreland; on the east by the German Ocean; on the west by Westmoreland and Lancashire; and on the south by Cheshire, Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, and Lincolnshire; extending itself in length 130 miles east to west, and 90 miles in breadth north to south; its circumference is 460 miles, and contains 6013 square miles.

NAME, AND ANCIENT HISTORY

The name of the county is derived from its city, which, according to Camden, was named by the Brisons, Cœr-Effroc, by the Saxons Evor-wic by Nennius, Carr Ebrauc, derived from the first founder King Ebraucus. Camden, however, more correctly suggests that the word Eboracum comes from the river Ure, (now the Ouse), implying its situation on that river. Thus the Eburovices, in France, were seated upon the river Ure, near Eureaux in Normandy; the Eburones, in the Netherlands, near the river Ourt, in the diocese of Liege, &c. Hence Eborac or Euorwic, became Yore or York.

Yorkshire was included by the Romans in their division of the island, called MAXIMA CÆESARIENSIS, and was inhabited by the Brigantes, who obtained this appellation from their being inhabitants of the upper region, Brig signifying, in the British, a summit, or upper situation.

After the departure of the Romans, Yorkshire formed part of the Saxon kingdom of the Northumbers, and continued so until the end of the Heptarchy, when all the states were united under Egbert.

All this part of the island suffered much from the Danes; and after the Conquest it was divided among some of the great Norman barons, who were sworn to prevent the incursions of the Scots; but the English not relishing the Norman government, fled in great numbers to Scotland, and assisted King Malcolm Canmore to invade the northern borders. News of this invasion being brought to the Conqueror, he swore that he would extirpate them; but found it impossible, and was obliged to conclude a peace with the Scots.

Yorkshire continued to make a considerable figure during the civil wars between the houses of York and Lancaster; and in the reign of Edward IV. a formidable rebellion broke out in this county, which was not suppressed but with the loss of many lives.

The last insurrection we shall mention, in which this county in general was concerned, was that which happened in the reign of Henry VIII. in consequence of the dissolution of the monasteries, the loss of which was sensibly felt by the poorer sort of people.

These convents had lands left for their support, which were let out in small farms, and the rent taken in corn, and such other necessaries as the land produced. By this method industry was encouraged, agriculture flourished, all sorts of provisions were in great plenty, and the people, by finding employment in the country, were not driven by distress to the capital, as in the present age.

But when these convents were dissolved, their lands were given to court favourites, who being under the necessity of supporting their extravagancies, let eight, ten, and sometimes twenty of these farms to one person, by which many families were involved in ruin.

Driven by oppression to a state of madness, above 40,000 of them took up arms, and marched to Doncaster, committing great devastations in their way, and insisting that the convents should be restored. They called themselves the Holy and Blessed Pilgrims; on one side of their banner was the figure of Christ crucified, and on the other side were the figures of a chalice and a host.

This formidable mob was met by the Earl of Shrewsbury and the Duke of Norfolk; but the river Don having overflowed its banks, they were prevented from coming to a general engagement. In the mean time a pardon was published for all such as would disperse, which having in general been accepted, the greatest part of them returned home: but those who refused were taken and executed.

In 1639 Charles I. made his first visit to Hull, and met with a loyal reception: the following year his governor was received, but resigned soon after. In 1642, the acquisition of Hull engaged the attention of the king and parliament. It was esteemed of great consequence, and it was the opinion of many, that if Charles had secured it (as he had the Tower of London and garrison of Portsmouth), being then in possession of the keys of the kingdom, and the principal magazines, he would never have been subdued; but Hotham being soon after received as governor from the parliawent, the king abandoned all hopes of it; and on St. George’s day, the same year, the gates were closed against him.

After a variety of letters, memorials, and messages, between the king and parliament, it was blockaded by the former; at the same time the sluices were pulled up, and the country flooded, to annoy the royal army, by which immense damage was done to the inhabitants and the suburbs: various attempts to gain the place by negotiation were made by the royalists without success. On Saturday, Sept. 2,1643, the royal army, under the command of William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle, (then marquis), set down before Huli, and invested it, and the siege was carried on with various success, till the 12th of October following (five weeks and four days), when it was raised, after being defended with great bravery by Lord Fairfax. In 1645, the Book of Common Prayer was burnt in the market-place; soon after which the plague again appeared. A perpetual garrison was now forced upon the town, in spite of their necessities and grievances, their petitions being disregarded. Andrew Marvell, the patriotic representative of this town, lived during the reign of Charles II. A vain attempt was made at the Revolution to secure the town for King James II.

SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT

This is bounded on the east by the Ainsty, and the river Ouse; on the north by the North Riding; on the west by Lancashire, and on the south by Cheshire, Derbyshire, and Nottinghamshire. The face of the country is very irregular, but may be divided into three large districts, gradually varying from a level and marshy to a rocky and mountainous region.

The flat and marshy part of the riding lies on the eastern side, along the banks of the Ouse, and extends to the westward generally within three or four miles of an imaginary line, drawn from Doncaster to Sherborne.

The middle part, as far to the westward as Sheffield, Bradford, and Otley, rises gradually into hills, and is beautifully variegated. Further to the west, the surface becomes rugged and mountainous. Beyond Sheffield scarcely any thing is seen but black moors, which running north-west, unite with the lofty hills of Blackstone Edge, on the borders of Lancashire. The western part of Craven presents a confused heap of rocks and mountains, as Pennygant, Wharnside, Ingleborough, &c. Amidst the hilly and mountainous tracts of this riding, are many romantic valleys, presenting the most beautiful scenery; as Netherdale, watered by the Nid; Wharfdale, and the rale of the Aire. Many valleys of less extent vie with these in picturesque beauty, and the greater part being enclosed, well wooded, and thickly spread with almost continuous villages, when viewed from the neighbouring eminences, present the resemblance of happiness and improvement combined.

CLIMATE AND SOIL

The climate of the West Riding is generally moderate; but the eastern part being subject to fogs and damps, is not esteemed so healthy. The harvest generally commences in the middle of August, and, excepting in backward seasons, is got in by the end of September. In the western parts, that are upland and hilly, the harvest is nearly a fortnight later than about Pontefract and Doncaster; and here is more rain than in the eastern parts of the riding.

In the West Riding there are pasture-lands, where grass is the chief object, and where cultivation by the plough is considered only in a secondary light. Upon the higher grounds there are immense tracts of waste, generally common among the contiguous possessors, and pastured by them with cattle and sheep, some stinted, and some open. Adjoining manufacturing towns, the manufacturer has his enclosures where he keeps cows, and horses for carrying his goods to market. From Ripley southward by Leeds, Wakefield, and Barnsley to Rotherham, to the banks of the Ouse, the soil is principally employed in raising corn. The common fields are most numerous to the eastward of the great north road from Doncaster to Boroughbridge. The moors, with some exceptions, lie in the south-west parts of the riding, above Peniston and Sheffield. Sheep are principally bred on them, and a great part is common.

ROADS

To remedy the bad roads in the West Riding, paved foot-paths have been made upon the sides of most of them in the manufacturing parts of the country; but these foot-paths have been too frequently made “bridle-roads,” a practice only to be excused by the peculiar badness of the main road.

RIVERS

The West Riding is eminent for the number of its great and navigable rivers. The Ouse, which takes this name at York, being formerly called the Ure, rises near the borders of Westmoreland, and collecting many tributary streams during its course through the beautiful dale of Wensley, flows for many miles with a very rapid current within the North Riding; but about three miles below, it becomes the boundary of this Riding, dividing it from the West Riding till it arrives at Ripon. From Ripon it takes a circuit of a few miles into the west, but again becomes the division between the two, and so continues as long as it retains its name; this it loses about six miles below Boroughbridge, at the influx of an insignificant stream that gives to the great river Ure its own name of Ouse, which, at last, in its turn, is lost in that of the Humber. The Ouse continues to be the boundary of the North Riding, dividing it from the West Riding, and the Ainsty of the city of York, till its arrival at York, where it entirely quits the North Riding. The Ouse is navigable for vessels of 120 tons as far as York, where the spring tides rise about 20 inches, but are spent about six miles above. The Ure is navigable for vessels of 30 tons as far as Ripon; where, on account of the rapidity of the stream, all prospect of navigation ceases.

The Don, or Dune, supposed to be a variation of the British word Dun, a deep channel, rises near Barnsley on the borders of Cheshire, passes by Sheffield, Rotherham, Doncaster, Thorne, and falls into the Aire at Snaith. It is navigable nearly to Sheffield.

The Calder rises in Lancashire, and running east-wardly, passes by Wakefield, and five miles below falls into the Aire.

The Aire, or Air, a large river, issuing from the mountain Pennygant, passes by Leeds, Pontefract, and Snaith. By the aid of canals this river is navigable to Leeds, Bradford, and Skipton. It pursues a long course quite across the Riding, and at length falls into the Don, near Snaith.

The Wharfe rises at the foot of the Craven-Hills, and after a course of more than fifty miles across the riding, keeping a great way at an equal distance of ten miles from the Aire, discharges itself into the Ouse.

The Nidd, or Nydd, rises in Maderdale Forest, near the source of the Aire, and passing Ripley, and Knaresborough, joins the Ouse, a few miles above York.

The Ribble rises among the mountains near Skipton, and running south by Settle and Gisburn, passes into Lancashire.

Besides these principal ones there are several rivers of less importance.

CANALS

Leeds and Liverpool Canal.

This canal begins out of the river Mersey, at lour water, just at the lower extremity of the town of Liverpool, by Bank-hall, and goes over the river Alt to Mill-house, it then takes a large half-circle round the town of Ormskirk, and crosses Toadbrook, near Newborough, whence it proceeds by the Douglas Navigation to Wigan; from thence, in a circular course, through Red Moss, by Black-rod, north for some way parallel with the Lancaster Canal, near Chorley, and by Heapy to Blackburn; from whence, with a bend round Church, it passes Burnley and Coln to Foulbridge, where a bridge is cut to supply the Canal, of which it is the head. The canal here begins to fall to Leeds, and goes from Foulbridge, by Salterford, East Morton, and cross the river Aire, near Gargrave, by Thorlby, Sturton, and the town of Skipton, by Bradley, Kildwick, Silsden, near the town of Keighley, and by Bindley; a little below which it crosses the river Aire again, passes Shipley, and takes a semi-circular course round the Idle, near Apperton-bridge, Horsforth, Kirkstall Abbey, by Burley and Holbeck, to the town of Leeds, making in the whole, a course of 130 miles, with 838 feet fall, viz. from the summit near Colne to Leeds, forty-five miles, fall 409 feet. From the summit there to Wigan, 50 miles, with 399 feet fall. From thence to Liverpool, 35 miles, fall 30 feet. There is also a collateral cut from near Shipley to Bradford.

The Barnsley Canal joins the river Calder, below the town of Wakefield, and passes Crofton, Felkirk, Royston, and arrives at Barnsley, whence it make, a bend to Barnby-bridge, near the town of Cawthorn, the length about 14 miles. There are several railways to the canal from Barnsley, and others from Barnby-bridge. The fall from the junction with the Dearne and Dove Canal, is 120 feet to the river Calder.

The Dearne and Dove Canal, commences From the cut which has been made for the accommodation of the river Dun navigation, between Swinton and Mexbrough, and proceeds by Wath, Wombwell, and Ardsley, to near Barnsley, there to form a junction with the Barnsley Canal, which joins the river Calder. There are two small branches, one parallel with Knolbeck-brook, to the iron work at Cob-car-Ing, the other along the head stream of the river Dove, to Worsbrough-bridge; with a proposed extension of this branch near one mile and a half farther, to Rockliffe-bridge, adjoining the grounds of Earl Stratford, at Wentwort h-castle.

The whole length of this canal, from the junction of the river Dun to Barnsley, is nine miles and a quarter, with 125 feet rise, from the river Dun to Barnsley. The branch to Cob-car-Ing is one mile and three quarters, and is level, by means of some deep cutting at the extremity. The branch to Worsbrough-bridge is one mile five furlongs in length.

The Stainforth and Keadby Canal commences at the river Dun, about a mile to the west of Fishlake, and runs parallel with the river opposite to Thorn; whence, in a line nearly due east, it passes Crowle and Keadby, where it joins the river Trent. There is a branch about a mile across Thorn’s Common to a place called Hangman-hill, which joins the river Dun. The total length of this canal is between fourteen and fifteen miles, and running through a part of the fenny country, has little elevation, and no lockage, except out of the rivers at the extremities.

The Huddersfield Canal joins Sir John Ramsden’s Canal on the south side of Huddersfield, and taking a westerly coarse, runs parallel with the river Colne, which it crosses twice, passing Longwood, Slaithwaite, and Marsden: from Marsden, under Pule-raoss and Brunn Top, there is a tunnel of near three miles and a half long, which brings the canal to Rasp-mill, on the Digglewater, and within about two miles of Dubcross; passing which, it takes the route of the river Tame, the windings of which it frequently intersects, and passes within one mile of Lydgate, by Mossley, Stayley-bridge, and joins the Ashton and Oldham Canal on the south side of Ashton, being a course of nineteen miles and five furlongs, with 770 feet lockage.

POPULATION

This has been stated, according to the returns of 1811, thus: 155,264 inhabited houses; males, 321,837; females, 331,473; total 653,315 persons, being an increase of 89,000 since the year 1801.

FARM-HOUSES AND COTTAGES

The former are in most cases very inconveniently situated, by being crowded into villages or townships, and not placed on the lands the farmer has to cultivate; besides, the farm-house and offices should be placed as nearly as possible in the centre of the farm. The farm offices erected by Lord Hawke have been referred to as an elegant pattern. The farm-houses lately erected are in general good, and conveniently situated.

COTTAGES

There having been a great want of dwelling-houses for husbandmen and labourers, many have boarded in the farm-houses, particularly the unmarried men, whilst the day-labourers have resided in the villages; although it is generally admitted that building cottages contiguous to the farm-offices, would be a great convenience to the farmer, and of greater advantage to the community.

LEASES AND TENURES

A considerable part of the West Riding is possessed by small proprietors, a respectable class of men, who generally farm their own lands. There are likewise a great number of large proprietors, such as the Duke of Norfolk, Earl Fitzwilliam, &c. Few of the latter reside upon their estates for a considerable part of the year. The greatest part of the riding is freehold property; the number of copyholders, or those who hold by a copy of court-roll, is also considerable. Much likewise belongs to the archbishop, colleges, deans, prebends, &c.; and the inferior clergy, in consequence of enclosure bills, are constantly accumulating landed property.

The greatest part of the land is let without lease, or what is the same thing, the occupiers are removeable at six months’ warning. The real leases arc of different durations: from three to twenty-one years; but three-fourths of the riding having been possessed from year to year, has been thought destructive of all good farming.

RENT, AND SIZE OF FARMS

The majority of farms are comparatively small, there being few in the West Riding that would be considered as large ones in any other part of the kingdom. As to the rent of land, it is difficult to fix its average, as in many places the sums payable by the farmer to the church, the public, and the poor, are nearly as great as the nominal rent paid to the landlord.

A considerable part of the landed property of the West Riding is in the hands of small freeholders; but there is likewise a great number of large proprietors. A great majority of farms are comparatively small, varying in size so much, however, that it would be difficult to fix an average. Upon the arable lands few exceed 300 acres. In the grass division they are smaller still, and the occupier of 100 acres has been called a great farmer.

ENCLOSURES

Almost all this riding is enclosed, except the common fields and moors; and too much praise cannot be given on account of the perfect state in which the fences are kept.

WASTES

The quantity of waste land in this riding has been some years gradually diminishing, yet much still remains to be done. All waste lands ought to be divided as soon as possible, so that every proprietor might have an opportunity of improving his share in one way or other: great part of which, according to a very judicious writer, “call loudly for improvement by the plough and the spade; may the call be obeyed, lest we fight and weave and hammer till we have not bread to eat.” From Ripley to Paitley, there is still a great deal of waste land. There is a fine valley called Nidderdale, watered by the Nid, but the higher ground has been left in a state of waste; and on this side of Grassington, a great part of the land is common, or waste.

CATTLE

There are not many horses bred, except in the eastern part of the riding. The size of those in the western part is generally small; but hardy and capable of great fatigue. In other parts of the riding they are large, and those used in waggons are strong and well made.

The stock of cattle may be classed under four different heads. There is the short-horned kind, which principally prevail on the east side of the riding, and are distinguished by the names of the Durham, Holderness, or Dutch breeds. There is thelong-homed, or Craven breed, which are both bred and fed in the western parts, and also brought from the neighbouring county of Lancashire; these are a hardy sort of cattle, and constitutionally disposed to undergo the vicissitudes of a wet and precarious climate. There is another breed, which appears to be a cross from the two already mentioned, and esteemed the best of all. A great number of milk cows of this sort are kept in Nidderdale and the adjacent country, which are both useful and handsome. They are perhaps not altogether such good milkers as the Holderness cows, but they are much hardier, and easier maintained. They are at the same time sooner made ready for the butcher, and are generally in good order andcondition, even when milked. Besides these, there are immense numbers of Scotch cattle brought into the country, which after being fed for one year, and sometimes two, are sold to the butcher. Beef of this kind always sells higher in the market, than that of the native breed; and from the extent of population there is a constant demand for all that can be fed.

SHEEP

There are so many kinds of sheep, both bred and fed, and they have been so often crossed, that it is not easy to describe them. The sheep bred upon the moors in the western part of the riding, and which we presume are the native breed, are horned, light in the fore-quarter, and well made for exploring a hilly country, where there is little to feed them but heath and ling; these are generally called the Peniston breed, from the name of the market-town where they are sold. When fat they will weigh 14lb. or 15lb. per quarter. They are a hardy kind of sheep, and good thrivers. When brought down, at a proper age, to the pastures in the low parts of the country, they feed as well, and are as rich mutton as need be.

There are great quantities of Scotch sheep from Teviotdale, &c. fed in the country; numbers of ewes are also brought annually from Northumberland, which, after taking their lambs, are fed for that season, for the butcher. Many two years old of this kind are also fed upon turnips: and in the southern parts there are a good many of the flat-ribbed Lincolnshire sheep, which are ugly beyond description.

Upon the waste commons scattered up and down the riding, the kind of sheep bred are the most miserable that can be imagined. As they generally belong to poor people, and are mostly in small lots, they never can be improved. This will apply to the whole of the sheep kept upon the commons, that are not stinted; the number that are put on, beggar and starve the whole stock. In many parts of the riding particular attention has lately been paid to this useful animal, by selecting rams of the best properties and breeds.

Hogs of various breeds are kept in this riding, and they have of late years received much improvement.

There are not many rabbit-warrens in this district, nor indeed much soil proper for that animal. It is only upon soft waste lands that they ought to be suffered to remain, as upon cultivated land they are a perfect nuisance.

WASTE LANDS

Nearly one-sixth part of the West Riding is waste land and moor; the quantity, however, is lessening every day. There are many parts of these wastes capable of great improvement, if divided and enclosed; but the far greater part would not repay the expence of enclosing.

IMPLEMENTS

Some time past the farmers in the West Riding were very deficient in the construction and management of their ploughs and wheel-carriages; and the same plough, with a few trifling alterations, was used all over the whole district; but it seems the improvements proposed since that period have not been wholly disregarded, notwithstanding the force of custom.

CARRIAGES

The carts, in general, are badly proportioned, being too long in the body, and strait. They are drawn by two, three, or four horses, and are very unhandy about a farm. The waggons are upon both broad and narrow wheels, and have been deemed extremely destructive to the roads. Very few oxen are wrought in the West Riding, and those only upon the farms of landed proprietors.

LOCAL PRODUCE

Pontefract has long been famous for the cultivation of liquorice, to the extent of 100 acres, in the vicinity of the town. It is a very precarious plant, often rotting by wetness, and hurt by sharp frosts in the spnng, or by dry weather afterwards. Rhubarb of good quality has been cultivated to advantage in the same neighbourhood, and promoted by the Society for the Encouragement of Arts and Manufactures.

MINERALS

Coals are found in great abundance in most parts of this riding; and excellent stone for building, and various other purposes, is every where at hand, in the hilly parts, and in the neighbourhood of Bradford particularly.

In the parish of Leeds there is fine pipe clay, and several quarries of an argillaceous schist, which supply the neighbourhood, and the country down the river, with slates and flag-stones for paving. On the north-east border of the parish begins a bed of imperfect granite, or moor-stone of the same kind as that on the East Moor in Derbyshire, which runs to the Chevin, near Otley, and constitutes the whole ridge of Romald’s Moor as far as Skipton, where limestone commences. On each side towards the level of the rivers Aire and Wharfe, the argillaceous schist occurs, which is evidently a stratum covering the granite. The stone on the south of the Aire is entirely argillaceous schist, as is generally the case where coal is found.

In the neighbourhood of Nidderdale there are some considerable lead mines.

Copper, &c. ore of— Copper pyrites, copper, combined with iron and sulphur.

Martial pyrites. Sulphur combined with iron, with baroselenite foliated and crystallized, found in a mine, at Beggarmans, to the north-west of Buckden.

Lead, ores of— Galena, lead combined with sulphur, the common blue lead oar. Lead mineralized by oxygen, and carbonic acid, the white lead ore, crystallized and compact.

There are many mines in this part of Yorkshire which produce the above varieties of lead ore, in considerable quantities, the liberties of Buckden, Star-bottom, Kettlewell, Coniston, Grassington, Hebden, &c. &c.; but the white lead ore has been raised in greatest quantities in the liberties of Buckden and Grassington.

Green lead ore, phosphorated lead ores, have been discovered in very small quantity on Grassington Moors.

Zinc, ores of— Calamine, Lapis Calaminaris, zinc mineralized by oxygen, with or without carbonic acid, compact and stalactitical, raised in considerable quantities in the liberties of Arncliffe, Kettlewell, and several others in that neighbourhood; and at Malham, Lord Ribblesdale’s liberty. There is also found at or near Malham, an oxyd of zinc, in form of a white powder, some of it is rich; this has not been met with in any other part of England.

Coal—A thin bed of coal is found on Grassington Moor, and the places in that neighbourhood.

The above-mentioned ores are accompanied in the vein with baroselenite, (cank of some) calcareous spar, or carbonate of lime and quartz, &c.

Wickerslev, a village upon the turnpike road between Sheffield and Bawtry, is noted for supplying the manufactory of Sheffield with grind-stones for all the finer articles of cutlery.

There are several mineral waters in this riding, of which the most famous is the sulphurous water of Harrowgate. There is also a chalybeate spring at the same place, and another at Thorpe-Arch. These we shall notice more fully in the topographical part of our work.

At Knaresborough is a remarkable petrifying spring, called the Dropping Well; and near Settle is a very curious ebbing and flowing well, both of which we shall more particularly describe in the course of our journies.

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISION

This riding is mostly divided into wapentakes, and some detached districts. Among the former are, Aybrigg, Barkston Ash, Claro, Ewecross, Morley, Osgoldness, Shyrac, Staincliff, Staincross, Strattforth, and Tickhill, Liberty of Cawood, Wistow and Otley, Ripon, Doncaster Soke, and Leeds Borough. —Within these limits are twenty-nine market-towns, and five parliamentary boroughs, viz. Aldborough, Borough-bridge, Knaresborough, Pontefract and Ripon. Ecclesiastically, this riding is within the province and diocese of York, and forms the Archdeaconry called Archdeaconry of York, or West Riding, divided into the following Deaneries: Craven, city of York and Ainsty, Pontefract. Ripon, within the Archdeaconry of Cleveland, is a peculiar jurisdiction.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH RIDING

SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT

The North Riding is bounded by the county of Durham on the north; the German Ocean on the north-cast; the East Riding on the south-east; the Ainsty of York and the West Riding on the south; and the county of Westmoreland on the west. The extent of the riding from east to west is eighty-three miles, and the breadth from north to south, forty-seven, containing 1,311,187 acres.

CLIMATE AND SOIL

The climate of the coast, from its situation, is cold and bleak; but in the vales sheltered from the westerly winds and the sea air, the grain ripens well. Cleveland is subject to a chilly and severe climate, but the dry soil here generally hastens the harvest. The Vale of York, or Mowbray, near the moors, is cold; but in other parts mild and temperate. The climate of the Howardian hills, especially at the western end, is cold, and the corn late in ripening, but that of the eastern end is milder. Rydale, and the east and west marshes, have a mild climate. The great altitude of the eastern moorlands renders the air cold and bleak; hence crops are often in the field when it is covered with snow. The western moorlands are much more liable to rain, and not being exposed to the sea air, the snow lies much longer on them; but the general character of the climate of the North Riding, resembling all the counties bordering on the German Ocean, is that of dryness throughout the year, and of peculiar coldness during the first half of it. Frosts sometimes occur in this riding, even in June, and vegetation generally lingers in its progress till that month has advanced. The soils of the coast are various.

The level land near the Tees, consists of a rich gravelly loam upon the high ground; on the west side of the road from Catterick to Piersebridge, it is for the most part strong, and generally fertile; but in some places cold and spongy; some fine hazel loam is also to be met with. Other soils are gravelly and of clayey loam. The dales that intersect the western moorlands are very rich and fertile, as is likewise Rydale, but Wensley-dale may be ranked among the first both in extent and fertility. The same may be said of the productiveness of the smaller dales, which are very numerous.

The district described by the term coast, comprehends the cultivated lands lying between the eastern moors and the ocean. It is hilly and bold, and from its situation cold and bleak; but in some of the vales, which are sheltered both from the westerly winds and the sea air, com ripens well. The cliff of the coast is generally from 50 to 150 feet high; the foot of which is in some parts always washed by the sea, and in all parts at high tides; from this cliff the country rises very rapidly, in the space of from half a mile to a mile, to the height of 300 or 400 feet.

RIVERS AND CANALS

The North Riding, considering its magnitude, has no great extent of navigable waters, though the rivers and streams (provincially called becks) are very numerous. The principal of the first is the Ure, rising near the borders of Westmoreland, and running through Wensley-dale, collects many tributary streams in its way, and runs with a rapid current many miles. About three miles below Masham it becomes a boundary between this and the West Riding, till it arrives at Ripon. It loses its name about six miles below Boroughbridge, and is now called the Ouse: the latter runs to York, where it entirely quits the North Riding. The Ouse is navigable for vessels of 120 tons as far as York, where the spring tides would rise about twenty inches, if not obstructed by the locks about four miles below, and would be spent about six miles above. The Ure, with the aid of a short canal, is navigable for vessels of about 30 tons as far as Ripon. The Tees divides this riding from the county of Durham during its whole extent, and is navigable for vessels of SO tons from the ocean to Yarm, where the spring tide rises seven feet.

The Derwent rises in the eastern moorlands, and takes a southerly direction, parallel to the coast, till it comes to the foot of the Wolds, when it alters its direction more than once to Malton, to which it is navigable from the Humber, for vessels of twenty-five tons. It is the boundary between the North and East Riding, till it arrives near Stamford-bridge. The Foss, a small stream rising near the western end of the Howardian hills, unites with the Ouse at York. The navigable cut from York to Stillington will be the only one of the kind that penetrates the North Riding.-The Swale, the Esk, and the Rye, rise and flow for their whole course within the North Riding; but, like all other streams having their sources in mountainous countries, they are shallow, rapid, and liable to sudden and frequent floods, the Wiske alone excepted. The Cover, the Greta, the Leven, the Rical, the Dove, the Seven, the Costa, and several other streams in this riding, only serve the purpose of turning a few mills. The Rye, the Rical, the Hodge-beck, the Dove, the Seven, and the Pickering-beck, are all ingulphed during their passage through the narrow range of limestone hills that skirt the southern side of the eastern moorlands, and again emerge at their foot on the northern margin of Rydale, after having been lost for the space of nearly a mile and a half.

Nature, in fine, has afforded the North Riding navigable water on half of its circumference at least: the Derwent and Ouse, from Malton, by York, to Ripon, on the south; the Tees to Yarm, on the north; and on the sea to the east. Navigation has in one instance been assisted by art, in the canal made from York to Stillington, a distance of about 14 miles. Another canal has been proposed to pass down the Vale of York, and join the Tees and Ouse, as a work of great utility.

ROADS

Much has lately been done to the roads, particularly on that from York to Malton, by lowering the hills, straightening, and widening, and building bridges. The pains taken in scraping the roads, causing them to dry more quickly, not only renders them more pleasant to travellers, but also lessens the draught of the carriages. The roads in this riding are almost wholly repaired by statute duty.

BRIDGES

Perhaps in no district in the kingdom, of equal extent, are the bridges, commonly called county bridges, more numerous, or better attended to. They were upwards of twenty years under the care of John Carr, esq. the celebrated architect of York. The number of these bridges is about 130, many of them of large extent, and erected in dangerous situations, and they are generally marked with the initials of the riding, (Y. N. R.)

FARM-HOUSES AND COTTAGES

As the greater proportion of this riding is possessed either by noblemen or gentlemen of upwards of 500l. per annum, there is of course a considerable number of elegant mansions belonging to both classes. The houses of those in Cleveland, on the borders of Leeming lane, and thence to the Swale, are better than in many parts of the riding; as in other parts, a farm-house from 100l. to 200l. a-year, consists only of a parlour, which has a bed in it, a room called a house, (which is the living room), and a back kitchen on the ground floor, and some very ordinary chambers open to the roof, that is generally thatched with rye or wheat straw. The farm-houses, those in the dales of the moorlands excepted, are too often situated in villages; hut in these dales they are generally constructed of stone, and situated upon the farms. The western dales are remarkable for their hay barns, placed in the centre of every third or fourth field; those barns have always a cow-house at one end, and often at both, where their cattle are wintered; by this means the hay and manure are not carried any great distance; a matter of importance in these hilly countries. The barn too is of particular use during hay harvest, in a country where the weather is attended with sudden, frequent, and violent showers. —The farm-houses of a recent date are great improvements of the old ones, though the tenant usually stands to all common repairs. cottages.

The cottages of the labourers are generally small and low, consisting for the most part of only one room or two, both level with the ground. In this riding the farmer is by no means well accommodated; but the labourer is much worse. Several dwellings have of late been built in different parts of the riding, with every proper convenience, which having small gardens and the enclosures provincially called gaths, have contributed much to the comfort and health of the families occupying them.

RENT

An instance of the rents being paid in any other manner than money only, occurs on some large estates, where boon days are performed by the tenants, which are usually for the purpose of carrying coals and other articles to the mansion of their landlord: these are generally proportioned to the size of the farms, and do not amount to more than the use of a team for one or two days in a year. The average rent of farms of pretty good soil, is from 15 to 21 shillings per acre. Near large towns small parcels of land have been let at 3l. or 4l. per acre.

TENURES

The tenure of the country is freehold, with some few instances of copyhold property, and some of leasehold for 1000, or other long term of years; and some instances of leases for three lives, renewable at the fall of every life: the latter, chiefly held under the church or other corporate bodies, are seldom occupied by the lessee, who generally leases the whole estate at the place, but are farmed out again by him to others.

TITHES

The greatest part of this riding is subject to tithes in kind, both rectorial and vicarial, but in many parishes they are compounded for, especially the latter; this mode of provision, fortunately for the clergy and public, is annually declining by means of the enclosure acts; while tithes in lay hands are becoming gradually extinct, by purchases made of the lay impropriator by the owner of the soil. To the credit of the tithe owners of this riding in general, a rigid mode of exacting them has not been the subject of complaint.

FENCES

In the best parts of the North Riding few open or common fields now-remain, the moors and mountainous parts excepted. White-thorn, provincially called quick-wood, constitutes the most common fence, and is planted when about three years old; in low wet situations crab makes the best fence; but the modes of hedging and ditching are various. The gates in most general use, are those of five bars. In the low grounds adjoining the river Derwent, where drains are wanted, two ditches, each eight feet wide and sixteen feet asunder, are made, and the soil thrown on the intermediate space, which is planted with bitter willow on each side, and alder and birch in the middle. In the dales of both the moorlands, stone walls without mortar are the prevailing fence. In the neighbourhood of York hollies have been observed planted in a reclining position along the line of the hedge, with their tops just above the ground.

IMPLEMENTS

The plough commonly called the Rotherham, or Dutch plough (their constructions being nearly the same), is generally used, and is allowed to be the best plough in use for all land; for though it is of the most simple construction, yet it effectually performs its work. Proud’s trenching or double plough is used by some, and answers well. The first share pares up the sod, and the other turns over the mould upon it. This plough is likely to be very serviceable if used with judgment. The depth and quality of the soil forms the criterion of using it. This plough may be set to different depths. It is requisite to plough up fresh earth, but the skill of the ploughman depends on his not ploughing too deep. The drill is very little used, nor does that use increase. Proud's drill is the most in use for sowing turnips; it delivers the seed regularly, and may be fixed to any plough. Almost every sort of harrow or roller is to be found here, the lighter ones generally on the Wolds.

The waggons in the greatest part of the district are drawn by two or four horses. They are generally heavy, with low fore wheels that lock under the body.

The breast-spade, used in draining, is found very useful; it is driven forward by a man in the same manner as the paring spade, and is not much unlike a common hay spade, turned up on both sides; it takes out an entire sod, and is very useful in cleaning out furrows, and cutting small grips or top-drains in flat lands.

A considerable number of oxen are used, mostly in yokes, and for carriages, in the farms; very few for the plough, as they are deemed too slow for that purpose, and in warm weather cannot stand, with sufficient ease to themselves, that continued labour for so long a time which the plough requires.

Threshing-mills and winnowing-machines have long been introduced. The Dutch plough is generally used, as are also the turn-wrist plough, with a few gripping ploughs for gripping the furrows of grass land; but the breast gripping-spade is much preferable to the last instrument. Drills are not general, though several are used in the northern part of the Vale of York; and here a drag on an excellent principle, called the “quicking drag,” has been adopted; as is also a stubble-rake drawn by a horse. In several parts a hay-sweep is used for readily collecting the hay together when raked into rows and intended to be stacked in the field. This is used with two horses, and the hay is thus got together in much less time than with a carriage.

CATTLE

The breed of cattle throughout the North Riding is the short-horned, except towards its western extremity, where some small long-horned cattle are to be met with, and also a mixed breed between the two.

The short-horned cattle of the northern part of the Vale of York, and of Cleveland, where also considerable numbers are bred, are known by the name of the Tees-water breed; and in the south of England by that of the Holderuess cattle, from the district of that name in the East Riding where this breed was either originally established, or first so improved as to bring it into notice, and where, within the district now under survey, the best of the breed are still to be met with. This district is supposed to produce the largest cattle in the kingdom; and several proprietors of stocks have of late years, at considerable expence, attentively improved them, encouraged thereto by the great prices given for cattle of this breed.

The cattle of the improved breed are very large and handsome; their colour light red, or black blotches, distinctly marked on a white ground; their backs level; throats clean; necks fine; carcass full and round; quarters long; hips and rumps even and wide; they stand rather high on their legs; handle very kindly; are light in the bone in proportion to their size, and have a very fine coat and thin hide.

Very few oxen in the northern pare of the vale, and Cleveland, are used for the purposes of the draught.

In the southern part of the Vale of York, breeding of cattle is not so much attended to as it is in the northern part, the object of cattle there being for the dairy.Stolen from Fore-bears

The cattle of the western moorlands are small; in the lower parts of the dales they are generally of the short-horned kind; but in the higher situations near the moors, and on the borders of the West Hiding and Westmoreland, the long-horned breed prevails.

In the eastern moorlands, and the coast, a great number of very good cattle are bred. They are not quite so large as those near Tees, but are clean and fine in the bone, and very free feeders. Great numbers of the oxen are worked until six or seven years old, and then they are sold chiefly to the graziers of the south of Yorkshire and of Lincolnshire, by whom they are preferred to every other breed.

In Rydale, with the Marishes, and the Howardian hills, many cattle are bred, and a considerable attention is paid to their improvement by several spirited individuals; and here, next after the banks of the Tees, the best of the short-horned cattle bred in the riding are to be met with; the breed formerly was crossed with bulls from Holderness, but since the Tees-water bulls have taken the lead, they have been chiefly resorted to for improvement.

The breed of Rydale is generally very large, with great bone, as it does not feed quite so quick as the Tees-water, to remedy which the Sussex breed has been used for a cross by two farmers of the dale.

SHEEP

The sheep of the old stock of the northern part of the Vale of York, and of Cleveland, are very large, coarse boned, slow feeders, and the wool dry and harsh; they feed to from 30 to 40 pounds per quarter, at three years old; and a few have been fed above that weight, and produce 10 or 11 pounds of wool each; but of late years the stocks of very many of the breeders have undergone a great change, and been much improved by the use of rams of the Dishley breed.

This improvement in the breed of sheep, extends betwixt the Swale and western moorlands, as far south as the West Riding; but it is not yet so general in the southern part of the vale as the northern.

The sheep of Rydale, the Marishes, and the Howardian hills, possess much of the Lincolnshire blood; the original breed of the dale having been improved by that cross. These sheep have been much improved by the introduction of the Dishley blood.

The improved breed is about the same size, but produces rather more wool than that of the Vale of York.

The sheep which are bred upon the moors of the western moorlands are horned, have grey faces and legs, and many of them a black spot on the back of the neck, and wool rather coarse and open.

HORSES

Yorkshire has long been famous for its breed of horses, and particularly this riding, in almost every part of which considerable numbers are still bred; the prevailing species are those adapted to the coach and saddle.

In the northern part of the Vale of York the breed has got too light in bone for the use of formers, by the introduction of too much of the racing blood; but the most valuable horses for the saddle, and some coach horses, are there bred.

In Cleveland, the horses are fuller of bone than those last described; they are clean, well made, very strong and active, and are extremely well adapted to the coach and the plough.

In the southern part of the Vale of York, the Howardian hills, Rydale, and the Marshes, a greater mixture prevails, both of the black and the racing blood, than in Cleveland; nevertheless, those districts produce a very considerable number of both coach and saddle horses; but want of attention or judgment, or both, in the owners of mares, in not suiting them with proper stallions, evidently injures the breed.

The dales of the eastern moorlands, and the coast, rear many horses, which are rather of a smaller breed than those before described; but are a hardy useful race, though generally too low for the coach.

Horses constitute a great part of the stock of the high parts of the western moorlands; the farmers there generally keep a few Scotch Galloways, which they put to stallions of the country, and produce an hardy and very strong race, in proportion to their size.

Exclusive of the above, the North Riding produces a considerable quantity of timber in the hedge-rows, particularly in the Vale of York, the Howardian hills, and Rydale; though in them, as well as the woodlands, not so much as formerly. The spontaneous production of the woodlands is principally oak, ash, or the broad-leaved or witch elm; the produce of the mountains, birch and alder; and of the hedge-rows and cultivated places various other trees, the consequence of improvement and art.

MINERALS

The coast and Cleveland, abound in all their hills with inexhaustible beds of alum strata. The eastern moorlands also produce alum, and some seams of coal are worked in different parts of these moors, but they are of an ordinary quality. Several of the dales contain great quantities of the iron stone; but Ay ton is the only place where any iron is now forged. The coal in the Vale of York is found very useful in making of lime. Veins of copper are supposed to be scattered about in several parts of the western moorlands and their vicinity; here are also several lead-mines. Freestone or gritstone is found in several parts of the riding near Richmond; at Renton, and in the neighbourhood of Whitby; nor is limestone less abundant. Various kinds of slate are also found, with divers kinds of marble, with blocks of light red granite. Marl also is met with in several parts, and gypsum on each side of the river Swale, about Thornton bridge.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

In the North Riding there is a considerable variety, which also vary from those in adjoining districts; in the northern part of the North Riding, the customary bushel exceeds that of Winchester by two quarts; that of some individuals is still larger, about ten per cent, more than the statute requires. A stone of wool in York market is sixteen pounds, and four ounces in each stone are allowed for the draught of each fleece. At Ripon market, a stone of wool is sixteen pounds twelve ounces. A stone of wool in the western moorlands is seventeen pounds and a half; at Darlington, it is eighteen pounds. In the eastern moorlands, the weights used by individuals vary up to nineteen pounds in the stone, and the pound of butter in the riding varies from sixteen to twenty-four ounces. A stone of any other commodity in the riding is fourteen pounds.

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS

The North Riding is divided into twelve wapentakes, comprising nineteen market-towns, of which five are boroughs, each of them sending two members to parliament, viz. Allertonshire, Birdforth, Bulmer, Gilling East, Gilling West, Halekeld, Hang East, Hang West, Lanbarugh, Pickering, Lythe, Rydale, Whitby Strand. The East Riding is divided into four wapentakes. All the ridings are in the province and diocese of York, except a small part which belongs to the bishopric of Chester.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST RIDING

SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT

The East Riding is the least of the three grand divisions of Yorkshire. It is bounded on the north and west by the rivers Harford and Derwent, that separate it from the North Riding as far as the vicinity of Stamford-bridge. About a mile above this, an irregular line commences from the Derwent to the Ouse, and joining the latter river about a mile below York, forms the rest of the boundary between the two ridings. From that place the East Riding is bounded on the west and south-west by the Ouse, which divides it from the West Riding. On the south it is bounded by the Humber; and on the east by the German Ocean. It contains 819,200 acres.

CLIMATE AND SOIL

The climate of the Wolds is severe and variable; the winds, as they sweep over this plain and unbroken surface, being extremely violent and penetrating. The north and east winds in spring generally continue with little intermission throughout the whole of March. April, and May, and occasionally longer, retarding all vegetation, and dwarfing the trees and hedges. Still the Wolds are extremely healthy, and the most grain is produced in the driest summers: but where the crops are exposed to the sea-fogs they are usually small, and the grain thick-skinned and coarse. Holderness has a fertile soil, and Howdenshire, with Ouse and Derwent, enjoy an earlier vegetation in proportion to the soil, than the clay lands; whilst the Vale of Derwent, from its variety of soil, is proportionately various in its climate.

The soil of the Wolds is, with little variation, a light friable calcareous loam, in some parts mixed with flints and pebbles; that of Holdnerness varies from a fertile clayey loam to a stiff cold retentive clay. The peculiarity of the circumstances and situation of Sunk Island, give it a claim to particular notice. Its name is probably obtained from seamen, when it first began to show itself a short time prior to the year 1667. That part which was first embanked, was originally about two miles from the shore, and many persons are living, who. recollect vessels passing between it and the main land, to which it is now united by a bridge across a narrow channel, serving as a drain to the adjacent country. It contains at present within the banks, about 4,700 acres, and twenty-four families, and is continually increasing in size, an extensive tract having been recently embanked, with a probability of its being still further enlarged. Several villages and hamlets, Mr. Strickland further observes, have at different periods been washed away by the sea, viz. Auburn, Hartburn, Hornsea, Burton Beck, and Ravenser, or Ravenspur; the latter celebrated as having been the landing-place of two of our kings. —Buttevant in Mare, is only known by tradition, but probably others lost at more distant periods are totally forgotten.

POPULATION OF THE EAST RIDING

Inhabited houses, 30,341; males, 81,205; females, 86,148; in all, 167,353 persons; having increased since the year 1801, 27,920.

RIVERS AND CANALS

The Derwent is navigable for vessels of 70 tons and under, from its junction with the Ouse, up to Malton, and its extension as far as Yedingham-bridge, nine miles further (by land), will be of very great service. The Ouse, from York to its junction with the Trent, where it takes the name of Humber, is a smooth flowing river, and conveys vessels of 150 tons, as high as York. The natural flow of the tide ceases about ten miles above that city. The Humber, from its width and depth of water, is capable of admitting vessels of any burthen, up to Hull. The river Hull, which flows near Beverley, and by means of a canal, communicates with that town, passes through the centre of the clay-land district, is navigable up to Frodingham-bridge, whence a canal carries forward the navigation to Driffield, twenty-five miles from Kingston upon Hull. Another canal extends eastward from the river Hull to Leven, about three miles distant. Market-Weighton and Hedon, have likewise each the advantage of a canal from the Humber, so that no part of the East Hiding (as measured on the map), is ten miles distant from water-carriage. Exclusive of these navigable waters, many smaller streams and numberless rivulets, add to the comfort and ornament of the country. The Harford, a small river rising near the sea, at Filey, waters the northern part of the Vale of Derwent. The Foulness flows through the centre of the sand lands, and the Wolds are on all sides well watered with springs.

The only stream which runs for any extent through the Wolds, is called the “The Gipsies,” rising at Wharham-le-street, and falling into the sea at Bridlington-Quay. In the lordship of Bempton, a stream of considerable magnitude discharges itself at all times into the sea at the foot of the cliffs. This stream is very little known, as it can only be approached along the beach at a certain time of the tide, in very calm weather; nor is the approach from the sea much more easy in consequence of the heavy surf almost contantly breaking against the foot of these lofty cliffs. The numerous brooks at the eastern foot of the Wolds is well known to anglers, under the general name of the Driffield Waters, which, with the river Hull, abound with trout of peculiar excellence and large size. The Cars too, in the low tract of country on each side the Hull, though greatly reduced in size and number, produce variety of pike, perch, eels, tench, turbot, roach, rudd and bream. The great decoys for water-fowl at Meux Aram, and Watton, are now laid dry, and the fish are in a great measure destroyed by the lately made drainages.

Formerly there were extensive meres and cars in Wallingfen, and Spalding Moor; but these being drained within the last sixty years, the country is now cultivated as far as it will admit. Hornsea Mere, in Holderness, is the largest in this part of England, being about two miles long, and about three quarters broad in the widest part, and contains about 600 acres. Not being above a third of a mile distant from the coast, and so much on a level with the high tide, in heavy gales of wind, the salt water driven up the outlet has sometimes entered the lake, and proved destructive to the fish in the lower part of it. This lake is interspersed with several wooded islands, and animated with water-fowl. It produces only pike, eels, perch and roach; but the pike have for a long time proved the most numerous.

ROADS

Nearly the whole of the roads in this riding are entirely maintained by the townships through which they pass, there not being more than 140 miles of turnpike road in the whole riding. In the Wolds of this part they are excessively bad; but in all cases the materials bear the blame. In Holderness the roads are repaired with gravel alone, spread upon the clay, so that in summer few countries can boast of finer highways, but in wet weather, the clay retaining water, the gravel is cut through and broken up; but though Howdenshire labours under the same inconvenience in materials, the roads are kept in a better condition. In other parts of the riding the roads are variously good or bad, according to the materials with which they are repaired. The general turnpike and highway acts of the late reign require to be revised and amended.

FENCES

Very few old fences are to be met with in the greater part of this riding, the enclosures having been made within the space of the last fifty years. The rails in these are three inches square, and are put into the post with an angle upward; and in this manner they last more than double the time of a flat rail. “Deuces and trays.” are so called from their being two long thin rails and an upright strengthening post in the middle, which, with the two posts at the end, form the tray; this is generally called guard-fencing. The gates in common are very various in their form; but hanging them properly is too little understood.

FARM-HOUSES AND COTTAGES

The houses of the country are generally good, except upon the Wolds, where materials are so indifferent. The old buildings here are composed of chalk-stone, with mud, instead of lime-mortar, and are covered with thatch; but those of later date here, and in all other parts of the riding, are substantially built of brick, and covered with pan tiles. Sashed windows are now not unfrequent in farm-houses; but these are not so well adapted for economy and duration as the casement. Some of the new farm-houses are too large, but of Gothecised farm-houses, or castellated cottages, there are but few.

The cottages here are more comfortable than in many other parts of England, as they generally consist of two lower rooms with two bed-rooms over them. On the Wolds they are almost universally built of chalk, and thatched; but in the low countries surrounding them, they are generally built of bricks or mud, and tiled. Many of the cottages in this riding have land allotted them for keeping cows; but from the quantity of ground required by the common mode of management, it is to be regretted that too many persons in most of the villages are deprived of this indulgence, so essential to health and comfort.

RENT, AND SIZE OF FARMS

On the Wolds many are to be found from 20l. to 50l. per annum: a farm of about 200l. per annum is, however, of a respectable size, and such are the generality. Of rents, some instances occur of 1000l. and one or two 1200l. per annum; in Holderness and the other surrounding districts there arc few very small farms, and still fewer of the great amount just stated; perhaps the average rent of the whole may be 800l; a year.

The better sort of land upon the Wolds, may be worth 20s. per acre or upwards; and in the low countries it is worth from 12s. to 30s. per acre. Near York and Hull, considerable tracts have been let in small parcels at 6l. or 7l. per acre, for gardens, &c.

LEASES

The occupation of farms upon lease for a term of years, in the East Riding, is of very rare occurrence, so much so, that scarcely a considerable estate, or a farm of much magnitude, could be recollected as held under that condition, unless attended by some suspicious circumstances, where something incorrect was aimed at, or some advantage intended to be given or taken. So many inconveniences, however, had been found resulting from letting farms merely by verbal agreement, that it has since become usual on most estates to draw up a Legal Agreement, by which both parties bind themselves to the fulfilment of certain clauses.

TENURES

These, with very few exceptions, are freehold; those belonging to the church, or other corporate bodies, are usually let out upon lease for three lives, renewable on the fall of each, at the rate of a year and a half, or a year and three quarters improved rent; and the lessees commonly let them to the occupiers by the year, according to the usual tenure of the country. Copyhold tenures, heretofore very frequent, have been for some years gradually diminishing.

TITHES

The right of taking tithes in kind has of late been greatly abridged in this riding, in consequence of the sale of them by the lay impropriators, and by acts of enclosure; and the practice of taking them does not usually occur; though in some places a corn-rent has been given in lieu of tithe; and this, notwithstanding some objections to it, has generally been thought the best mode. Some parishes still continue to pay only the thirtieth sheaf to the Vicar; a provision, it seems, that cannot be altered for the better.

IMPLEMENTS

In the southern and western part of this district, the Rotherham, or swing-plough, is in general use, and which, when well made, does its work more perfectly, and with greater ease both to the man and horses, than any other. On the Wolds the old fashioned foot-plough has continued too much in use, being a clumsy, heavy, ill-formed implement. In the Vale of Derwent, the gripping, or surface-draining plough, is much used, and some machines for cutting Swedish turnips. The pease-hook and the bean-book are peculiar to this riding, and are made of old scythe blades. The hoe, and the moulding-sledge, particularly the latter, as used here, are excellent in their kind. Another tool for the use of the lime-burner, answers the double purpose of the rake and shovel. The threshing machine used here, is constructed upon the same principle as those in Scotland.

CATTLE

The Holderness, or short-horned cattle, remarkable for their large size and abundant supply of milk, prevail universally through this district. This breed is distinctly marked, being variously blotched with large patches of deep red, or clear black; or, with a dun, or mouse colour, on a clear white ground: they are never brindled, or mixed, and rarely of one uniform colour.

The South-Down breed of sheep, introduced upon the Wolds some years since, has gradually extended itself, being a species admirably calculated for bleak and bare situations, where they have to travel far for a supply of food, and where the bite is short.

The Yorkshire bay horses are naturally stout, hardy, and compact animals, and at the same time cleanlimbed; but for want of care the breed has degenerated.

A great number of cattle and horses are bred in almost every part of the riding, and in course are of great importance. The oxen, when at a proper age and fatted, weigh, when killed, from 60 to 110 stone; cows weigh from 40 to 60 stone; the average of oxen weighs 70, of cows 48 stone.

CARRIAGES

The waggons generally used here are high, narrow, and long; but the mode of yoking them peculiar to this district, is worthy of imitation. The four horses are yoked two abreast, in the same manner as they are put to a coach, two drawing by the splinter bar, and two drawing by the pole; those at the wheel drawing also by a swinging bar. The driver then being mounted on the near side wheeled horse, directs the two leaders by a rein fixed to the outside of each of their bridles, they being coupled together by a strap, passing from the inside of each of their bridles to the collar of the other horse. In this manner, when empty, they trot along the roads with safety and expedition, and when loaded, the horses being conveniently placed abreast, perform their labour with much greater ease than when placed at length.

WASTES

The waste lands of the East Riding, properly so called, are of small extent, and so incapable of improving, that no useful information can be given under this head. Some fruitless efforts have been made under acts of enclosure, to cultivate weak and barren tracts, and the land has again been abandoned. Some plantations, however, have been made with a better prospect of success; and this appears to be the only method of deriving profit from such soils.

MINERALS

Near Norton, Westow, and a few other places, is found a strong hard limestone, abounding with shells, applicable only to the coarsest purposes of building. Among the chalk of which the Wolds mostly consist, a light grey flint is found, differing in figure and in its more material properties from other flints, as containing too much calcareous matter to be useful in the potteries, which are supplied by flints collected on the south coasts of England; and after passing up the Humber, conveyed by the rivers and canals to Staffordshire and elsew here. Marl and gypsum are also found within the limits of this riding.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

The customary bushel used here is considerably larger than the Winchester, and the corn merchants invariably buy by the former and sell by the latter. In the Malton market, where much corn from the East Riding is sold, it is customary to sell oats by weight, 24 stone of 14 lbs., being considered equal to a quarter of eight customary bushels. The coal measure varies at almost every part between Newcastle and London, gradually diminishing as it proceeds southward, and the price remaining nearly the same. At Bridlington 48 unheaped Winchester bushels make the chaldron. The legal measure upon which the duty is paid, is 36 unheaped Winchester bushels per chaldron. —On the Wolds, wool is sold by the stone of 16 ¼lbs. In Holderness the todd of 28 ½ lbs. is in general use. Butchers’ meat, hides, provisions, tallow, &c. are sold by the store of 14 lbs. The pound of fresh butter varies in different markets, from 16 to 20 ounces. Hay is sold by the ton of 160 stone, and straw by the threave of 12 bundles.

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS

The East Riding is divided into six wapentakes, viz. Holderness, Dickering, Buckrose, Ouse and Derwent, Howdenshire, and Harthill. It contains ten market towns, viz. Bridlington, Driffield, Beverley, Pocklington, Market-Weighton, Howden, South Cave, Kingston upon Hull, Hedon, and Patrington; of which Beverley, Hedon, and Hull, send two members each to parliament.

TITLES CONFERRED BY THE COUNTY

The city of York is an archbishopric, and gives the title of Duke to the second son of the King. The Mayor of York has the title of Lord, the same as that of London. Craven, gives the titles of Earl and Baron to the Boyle family. Richmond, gives the title of Duke to the Lennox family. Mulgrave, gives the same title to the Phipps family. Skipton, that of Lord of the Honour of Skipton to the Tuftons. Danby, the title of Earl to the Osbornes. Yarm, the title of Baron to the Belasyse family. Aske, gives the same title to the Dundas family; and Loftus the same to the Tottenhams. Bolton Castle, gives the same title to the Orde Powlett family. All the above, except Craven, are in the North-Riding. —Beverley, gives the title of Earl to the Percy family. Sittington, gives the title of Baron to the Lenox family: the above are in the East-Riding. —Leeds gives the title of Duke to the Osbornes: —Doncaster that of Earl to the Scott family. Pomfret, gives the title of Earl to the Fermor family: Sheffield that of Baron to the Baker Holroyd family. Wentworth, gives the titles of Viscount and Baron to the Noel family; Kiveton the same to the Osborne family. Rawdon, gives the same title to the Rawdon family; and Hastings Towton the same to the Hawkes. Wortley gives the title of Baron to the Stuarts; and Markenfield the same to the Nortons. Harewood, gives the same title to the Lascelles family: Setting ham the same to that of the Gowers. Furnival, gives the same title to the Howard and Talbot families: and Gisburne Park, the same to the Lister family.

QUARTER SESSIONS

At York City. —Jan. 14, April 14, July 14, October 20. St. Peter’s Liberty, Jan. 15, July 15, October 21.

East Riding. —Beverley, Jan. 11, April 11, July 11, October 17.

West Riding. —Wetherby, Jan. 11; Wakefield, Jan. 13; Doncaster, Jan, 15; Pontefract; April 10; Skipton, July 10; Rotherham, July 10; Bradford, July 14; Knaresborough, Leeds, and Sheffield, during the first whole week after October 11.

North Riding. —Northallerton; Jan. 11, April 11, July 11, October 17.

Archbishop’s quarter sessions for the liberty of Cawood, Wistow, and Otley. —Odey, Jan. 12, April 12, July 12, Oct. 18; Cawood, May 17, and first whole week after Oct. 11.

LEARNED MEN AND LITERATURE

This article is so rich and extensive, that scarcely any thing more than the mere names of some of these celebrated characters can be given in this work. John de Wickliffe, styled the Morning Star of the Reformation, was bom in the parish of Wickliffe. Dr. John Tillotson, Archbishop of Canterbury, was born at Sowerby, in 1630, and died in 1694. Roger Ascham, a learned miscellaneous writer, was bom at Kirkby Whiske, in 1515; died 1568. Dr. Richard Bentley, an eminent critic and divine, born at Wakefield, 1662; died in 1742. Captain James Cooke, the celebrated navigator, born at Marton in Cleveland, 1728; was killed in the South Sea Islands in 1779. Thomas Lord Fairfax, general of the army under Cromwell; died in 1671, having obtained the good opinion of Charles II. John Harrison, inventor of the timekeeper to ascertain the longitude at sea, was born at Foulby, near Pontefract, in 1693; he died in the year 1776, having received a reward of 20,000l. for his discovery. William Mason, an ingenious poet and divine; died 1797. The long-lived Henry Jenkins, was bom at Bolton in this county. Dr. John Potter, a learned prelate and antiquary of considerable celebrity, was born at Wakefield in 1674; died 1747. Dr. Joseph Priestley, one of the greatest philosophers the country ever produced, was born at Field-Head, in the parish of Birstall, in 1733, and died in America 1804. Dr. Beilby Porteus, late Bishop of London, was a native of this county. He was born in 1731, and died in May 1809. Dr. Samuel Garth, a celebrated poet and physician, was born in this county, and died in 1719. To all these have been added the name of Constantine the Great, born at York about the year 274; died in 337.

The newspapers printed in the county are the York Courant; the Chronicle; the Herald; the Gazette, all at York—At Leeds, the Intelligencer; the Mercury; the Independent—At Sheffield, the Iris and the Mercury—at Wakefield, the Wakefield Journal—at Doncaster, the Doncaster Gazette—at Hull, the Hull Packet; the Hull Advertiser; and the Rockingham.