Richmond is the principal town of the district, denominated Richmondshire, and derives its name from the rick and fruitful mount whereon it was built by Alan Earl of Bretagne, the nephew, and one of William the Conqueror’s generals, who, for his valour at the battle of Hastings, was rewarded with this earldom, and all the north-west part of Yorkshire towards Lancashire. The charter runs thus: "I William, surnamed the Bastard, king of England, do give and grant unto thee my nephew, Alan Earl of Bretagne, and to thy heirs for ever, all the villages and lands which of late belonged to Earl Edwin in Yorkshire, with the knights fees, and other liberties and customs, as freely and honourably as the said Edwin held them. Dated from our siege or camp before York." It appears that here were 140 knights fees, each fee containing 12 plough lands or 640 acres. The town was anciently surrounded with walls.

Adjoining to the town, on the north side of the Swale, stands the castle built by the before-mentioned Alan Earl of Bretagne. This structure forms the principal feature at Richmond, few places being more picturesque. The great square tower is ninety-nine feet high, and was built by Conan in the twelfth century. It is three stories high, with a massy column in the centre, which supported the floors.

The town of Richmond is small, and contains two churches: its population scarcely amounts to three thousand. Many of the houses are built of free-stone, and the streets are well paved.

The situation is delightful, standing on a lofty eminence boldly rising from the Swale, which winds round the town and castle in a semi-circular direction, and the whole place has a very agreeable appearance. Between the river and the site of the castle, is a walk of eight or nine feet in breadth, and about sixty perpendicular above the bed of the river, and presenting to the eye a tremendous precipice. The ground on which the castle stands, is elevated forty or fifty feet above this walk, and is faced on that side with massy stones, resembling a natural rock. The eastern side of the castle-yard is also skirted by the Swale, but here the descent, instead of being precipitous as on the south, slopes down for the space of forty or fifty yards to the river. The west side of this once almost impregnable fortress is faced with a deep valley, the ascent from which is exceedingly steep. On the north the site is elevated very little higher than the town. The castle yet appears majestic in its ruins. The keep, of which the shell is most entire, is about 100 feet high, and the walls are eleven feet thick, the lower story is supported by a vast column of stone in the middle, from which circular arches spring, closing the top: the stair-case goes only to the first chamber, the rest being dilapidated. In the south-eastern corner of the area is a ruinous tower, with a dungeon thirteen or fourteen feet deep. The site of this castle contains nearly six acres.

Richmond was annexed to the duchy of Lancaster in the reign of Richard II. Charles II. conferred the dukedom of Richmond on his natural son Charles Lenox, in whose family it still continues.

This borough having been incorporated 19th Eliz. was in the next parliament, anno 27, called upon to send representatives. The right of election is in such persons as are owners of ancient burgages in the said borough, having a right of pasture in a common field called Whitcliff pasture. The number of voters is about 270, and the mayor is the returning officer.

The corporation consists of a mayor, recorder, twelve aldermen, and twenty-four common-council- men. The town has thirteen free companies of tradesmen, who annually chuse the mayor on the day of St. Hilary.

The weekly market is held on Saturday, and is plentifully supplied with cattle and all sorts of provisions. The inhabitants are principally employed in the manufacture of knitted yarn stockings for servants and husbandmen. This trade extends itself into Westmoreland, or rather from Westmoreland hither, for at Kendal, Kirby Stephen, and such other places in that county as border upon Yorkshire, the chief manufacture of yarn stockings is carried on.

Richmond is one of the greatest corn markets in the county: being seated on the utmost verge of the district in which grain is produced, the corn-factors and millers repair hither from Swale-dale, Wensley-dale, and other parts. The market-place is spacious and handsome, and is surrounded by good shops and houses. The lead-mines in Swale-dale, and the other dales communicating with it must be considered as an important feature in this district: these mines have employed about 2000 persons at once.

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RICHMOND is a municipal borough, market and union town, head of a county court district, township and parish, and the capital of the extensive baronial liberty of Richomodshire, locally in the western division of the wapentake of Gilling, rural deanery of West Richomod, Archdeaconry of Richomod and diocese of Ripon; it is the terminus of the Richmond branch of the North Eastern railway from Dalton junction, and is 240 miles from London by the Great Northern and 268 by the London and North-Western railway, 15 ¼ south-west from Darlington, 16 south-east from Barnard Castle, 12 north-west from Bedale and 16 north-west from Northallerton by road and 19 by railway.

The town is delightfully situated amidst the most enchanting scenery. Viewed from the surrounding hills the town and castle of Richomod, notwithstanding their elevation above the ground in their immediate neighbourhood, seem to lie at the bottom of a valley. The country round is a rich agricultural district, and the neighbourhood for several miles is studded with the parks and mansions of landed proprietors. The beauty of the scenery and the healthy situation of the place attract an increasing number of visitors year by year.

Richomod returned two members to Parliament from 1584, but under the provisions of the “Representation of the People Act, 1867,” the number was reduced to one, and by the “Redistribution of seats Act, 1885,” its representation was merged into the Richmond division of the Riding. The town was incorporated 19 Eliz. (1576—7) and received a new charter from Charles II. in 1668; the corporation consists of a mayor, four aldermen and twelve councillors. The borough has a commission of the peace and a separate court of quarter sessions.

The gas works, in Riverside road, were established in 1821; the water works, at Gallowgate and Westfield respectively were erected in 1837; both are the property of the Corporation, and are held under lease granted by the and Earl of Zetland K.G.; the water is supplied from springs at Coalsgarth, and is noted for its purity.

In 1889 the town was made the seat of a bishop suffragan; the Right Rev. John James Pnlleine D.D. of Trinity College, Cambridge, and rector of stanhope, Durham, has been bishop since that date.

The parish church of St. Mary is an ancient building of stone, principally in the Norman Gothic style, and has been several times enlarged: it consists of chancel, clerestoried nave, aisles, north and south porches, and an embattled western tower containing 6 bells: in the church is a curious monument, with effigies, to Sir Timothy Hutton, knighted at Whitehall 16 Feb. 1605—6, being then sheriff of Yorks, and to Elizabeth (Bowes) his wife; he died in 1629; the monument is of stone, the architectural work being adorned with gilding; the painted effigies of Sir Timothy and his lady are placed in a recess in the wall, kneeling, facing the east, with hands conjoined and elevated in the attitude of prayer: over them are the blazoned arms of Hutton and Bowes, and below are small figures, of their twelve children: round the whole are female figures, emblematical of Faith, Hope and Charity, with Fame at the top between two angels and blowing a trumpet: there are many stained windows. The church was restored by the late Sir Gilbert Scott R.A. and reopened in April, 1860, and in 1892 various other improvements were made under the direction of Mr. C. Hodgson Fowler, architect, of Durham, when the chancel floor was raised and re-laid in mosaic with marble steps at the cost of the Misses Ryder and Mr. Edward Elliott: the oak communion table has been re-constructed as a memorial to the late Canon Ottley and the late Dr. Hamilton, bishop of Salisbury, by the Rev. Canon E. B. Ottley M.A. of Rochester, and Mrs. Ottley: the Teredos, originally designed by the late Sir G. Scott, and intended to commemorate the late rector and the restoration of the church, has also been renewed in Caen stone and marble, some of the former work being re-incorporated, and it now includes figures in alabaster of Our Lord, the Virgin Mary and other saints, the gift of Mr. and Mrs. Roper: the stalls with misereres and canopies were originally in St. Agatha’s Abbey, Easby: a new vestry was added in 1903 in memory of C. G. Tate esq.: there are 1,000 sittings. The register dates from the year 1556. The living is a rectory, net yearly value £300, with an acre of glebe and residence, in the gift of the Bishop of Ripon, and held since 1907 by the Rev. Neville Egerton Leigh M.A. of Brasenose College, Oxford, hon. canon of Ripon, rural dean of Richmond, chaplain of Richmond union and acting chaplain to H.M. forces.

The church of the Holy Trinity, in the Market place, was built in the 12th century, and repaired in 1360, but in 1710 became ruinous and was desecrated; in 1744 the nave was reclaimed and fitted up for public worship, and in 1864 the north aisle, which had been used as a Consistory Court, was restored to the church: the tower, which stands detached, belongs to the Corporation; it contains a clock and one bell, which has been used from time immemorial as a “Curfew bell,” and is tolled every day at 6 a.m. and 8 p.m. and on all public and solemn occasions: there are 280 sittings. The living is a perpetual curacy, net yearly value £90, including 35 acres of glebe, in the gift of the Bishop of Ripon, and held since 1907 by the rector of St. Mary’s.

The Catholic church, in Newbiggin, dedicated to St. Joseph and St. Francis Xavier, and opened in July, 1868, is in the Early Decorated style, from designs by Mr. George Goldie, architect, and consists of apsidal chancel, nave, aisles and a lofty western bell-turret: in the chancel are three stained windows, one of which is a memorial to the Rev. Robert Johnson, for fifty years priest of this church; the high altar is elaborately carved in Caen stone, with marble columns and statues; the lofty reredos, pyramidal in form, is crowned by a large crucifix; below are statues of the Blessed Virgin and St. John, and further down those of adoring angels; in the centre is a canopy overhanging the tabernacle: in the aisles are side altars, the Lady altar being of exquisitely carved oak, executed in Belgium.

The Convent of the Assumption was erected in 1850, on a site presented by Fanny 9th Duchess of Leeds: on 14 Feb. 1868, the foundation stone of the new chapel and east wing was laid, and the west wing was begun 3rd August, 1879.

The Congregational chapel in Dundas street, built in 1883, is capable of seating 400 persons.

The Wesleyan, chapel in the Market place, erected in 1841, is a building of stone, and will hold 600 persons.

There is also a Primitive Methodist chapel in Bargate, erected in 1861, which has 260 sittings.

There is a cemetery of 5 acres, in Mill lane, formed in 1886, with chapel.

The Town Hall, which is in the Market place, contains a spacious assembly room, holding 400 persons, and a court in which the quarter sessions are held.

The Corporation possess a silver-gilt mace, 2 feet 2 ½ inches in length, made at York in 1650, but converted into a royal mace in 1660, the arms of the Commonwealth on the top being covered by those of Charles II.

The savings Bank, in Frenchgate, established in 1817, occupies a large and handsome building of stone, erected in 1851—3, and comprising the office and actuary’s house, with three extensive public rooms over.

The Library of the late Richmond scientific society, kept in one of the large rooms over the Savings Bank, comprises about 10,000 volumes; here also is the library of the Mechanics’ Institute, of about 2,000 volumes; both are open daily from 11 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Richmondshire Club also occupy premises here.

The Masonic Hall, in Newbiggin, is a building of stone, erected at the sole cost of the 2nd Earl of Zetland K.G., K.T. (d. 1873).

The Working Mens Hall, also in Newbiggin, and opened in 1875, was erected at the sole cost of the present Marquess of Zetland, and contains a small library and billiard tables. The upper room of this hall is used by the Friendly Benefit societies of the town.

The Conservative Club, in Newbiggin, opened in 1896, contains a billiard room, reading room, with a small library on the ground floor, recreation rooms above, and apartments for the steward. There is also a bowling green.

The market is held on Saturday for butter, eggs, poultry, vegetables and fruit. The market for butter, eggs and poultry is held in the Market house, a fine stone building, 99 feet long by 45 feet wide, erected by the Corporation in 1854, at a cost of about £900. A fortnightly cattle market was established in 1852. The annual fairs for cattle, pigs, sheep and horses are held on the racecourse on the 2nd and 3rd of November: there are two other fairs for pedlary held in the course of the year.

The principal hotels are the Kings Head and the Fleece.

Races were formerly held on a piece of ground about a mile from the town, where there is still a grand stand; there are training stables near the race ground; the latter is used as links by the Richomod Golf club; on the high moor is another piece of ground, about a quarter of a mile south-west of the racecourse, adaptable for training purposes.

A stone drinking fountain was erected in 1904 on Market Hill as a memorial to Her late Majesty Queen Victoria.

The Victoria Cottage Hospital, in Queen’s road, wag erected in 1899, and will hold 9 patients.

The Infectious Hospital, at the top of Gallowgate, was erected in 1870, at the sole cost of Mrs. Brown Simpsons, but was subsequently taken over by the Corporation, and in 1913 was enlarged, and will hold 15 patients.

There are three hospitals or almshouses: Pinkney’s Hospital, in Tower street, founded in 1699, was rebuilt by the Corporation on its present site in 1825, and is for three widows, each of whom receives 40s. yearly, for one shoe maker or tailor, and for one widow who has to wait upon the others in case of sickness. Bowes Hospital, Anchorage hill, is for three poor widows, the sum of £10, less 13s. 4d. for repairs, being divided amongst them half yearly. Sanderson and Thompson’s Charity, near the Castle walk, is in the hands of trustees, who have also a small sum of money for distribution to four widows of tailors. A sum of £17 0s. 4d. called “Audit Money,” is annually given away in doles at Christmas by the Mayor, and consists partly of a portion of ancient fee farm rent, payable to the Crown under a charter of Henry VI. but which by a grant of Queen Elizabeth is returned to the Mayor, and partly of several small bequests. Dr. John Bathurst, M.P. for this borough 1655 to 1658, bequeathed £3 a year towards the maintenance of two poor scholars at the University of Cambridge, and £4 for apprenticing one poor boy, but under a scheme dated 9 May, 1892, this bequest became part of the endowment of the Richomod school. Christopher Clarke left in 1728 the annual sum of £1, to be disposed of in books, papers &c. and other necessaries for one poor boy at the Richomod school.

Alan Rufus, son of Hoel, Count of Bretagne (a kinsman of William the Norman, who accompanied him in his expedition to England), is generally stated to have been the founder of both the castle and town of Richomod. By some authorities the town is said to have been in existence a few years prior to the Norman, accession. William conferred on Alan the title of Earl of Richomod, and the estates of the Saxon Earl, Edwin, embracing nearly 200 manors and townships, and a jurisdiction over all Richomodshire, about a third of the North Riding; after Alan’s death the earldom of Richomod descended to his grandson by marriage, Alan Niger, who, in right of his wife, became Earl of Richomod, and his successors enjoyed the title and possessions till they became merged in the Crown by forfeiture, in the reign of Bichard II. In 1452 the Earldom of Richomod was conferred by Henry VI. on his half-brother, Edmund Tudor, whose son, Henry, Earl of Richomod, became King of England as Henry VII.; the title was raised to a dukedom by Henry VIII. in favour of his natural son, Henry Fitzroy, by Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Blount kt. of Kinlet: this youth in 1532 went to Paris and there married Lady Mary Howard, but died in 1535, at the age of 17. Charles II. in 1675 bestowed the title on his natural son, Charles Lennox, by Louise Renee de Perrencourt, in whose descendants the dignity continues. The castle for many centuries has been in ruins, yet it does not appear to have suffered from any siege or other violence. The site of the castle, which is between the river and the town, occupies a space of about 6 acres; the fortress, from the natural advantages of its position, must have been quite inaccessible, except on the north side (or that next the town); the ground on which it is built is elevated to the height of fully 100 feet above the river, the precipice being broken into two parts about midway down by a walk of eight or nine feet broad, which runs under the castle wall; the portion of the hill above the walk is faced with large stones, so as to give it almost the appearance of a rock. On the west side of the castle is a deep valley, supposed by some to be artificial; and the river Swale winds round the east side, where the descent is much more gradual; on the north there was formerly a moat, which, however, has long been filled up: the whole was originally surrounded by a high wall, strengthened at intervals with towers, and measuring nearly half a mile in circumference; for a long time after its erection this castle was probably unrivalled in England either for extent or strength: it was a military stronghold, constructed in every part with a view to defence. The principal portion of the edifice that now remains is an immense square tower on the north side, said to have been built about the middle of the 12th century; it measures 54 feet in one direction by 18 in another; and the walls are 107 feet 7 inches high, and 11 feet 6 inches in thickness: this tower consisted originally of three stories, the arched roof of the lowest of which is supported by a massive stone pillar, placed under the centre: the roofs of the upper stories have fallen in, At the south-east corner of the castle there is the ruin of a smaller tower, in the bottom of which is a dungeon about 14 feet deep. There is also another tower, known as Robin Hood’s tower, at the south-west corner, round and narrow, and of considerable height, at the foot of which is a chapel. In the courtyard sixteen houses were erected in 1857, in the Gothic style, for the reception of the married portion of the permanent staff. At the request of the Archaeological societies of Yorkshire and Westmorland the Board of Works has undertaken the repair of the castle.

Richomod is the depot of the Regimental District No. 19, Alexandra, Princess of Wales’s Own (Yorkshire Regiment) (1st and 2nd battalions 1sth Foot), and the head quarters of the 3rd special Reserve Battalion of the regiment. The barracks, at the top of Gallowgate, form a fine stone building, opened on the 16th April, 1878, and will hold about 400 men.

Richomod is also the head quarters of the Northumbrian Territorial Division, which is situated in the Castle, and E Co. of the 4th Battalion, Alexandra, Princess of Wales’s Own (Yorkshire Regiment).

At the back of Frenchgate stood a monastery of Grey Friars, founded in 1258, by Ralph Fitz-Randal, Lord of Middleham; only the octagonal central tower, a majestic and elegant specimen of the Perpendicular style, now remains.

The ruins of the Benedictine monastery of St. Martin, founded by Wymar, chief steward to Alan, Earl of Richomod, in 1100, as a cell of York, stand on the Southern bank of the Swale, near the railway station.

The extensive remains of the Premonstratensian Abbey of St. Agatha are about one mile below the town, on the north-east side of the river, in the parish of Easby, which see.

The Corporation, who are lords of the manor, and the Marquess of Zetland K.T., P.C. are the principal landowners.

The parish and municipal borough of Richmond contains 2,481 acres of land and 39 of water; rateable value, £17,181; in 1911 the population was 3,934, including 6 officers and 59 inmates in the workhouse and 176 military and 58 other inmates in the barracks. The population of the ecclesiastical parish in 1911 was 3,934.

Petty sessions are held every alternate Saturday at the Town hall at 12 noon. The following places are included in the petty sessional division:-Aldbrough, Arkengarthdale, Aske, Barforth, Caldwell, Cliffe, Dalton, Easby, Eppleby, Forcett, Gayles, Gilling, Hipswell, Hudswell, Kirkby-Bavensworth, Layton East & West, Marrick, Marske, Melbecks, Melsonby, Maker, Newforest, Ravensworth, Reeth, Scotton, St. Martin’s, Stanwick St. John, Skeeby & Whashton.

RICHMOND UNION

Board day, every alternate Saturday.

The Union embraces the following townships:-Aldbrough, Appleton, Aske, Bolton-on-Swale, Brompton-on-Swale, Brough, Caldwell, Carkin & Forcett, Catterick, Colburn, Cowton (North), Dalton, Downholme, Easby, Ellerton-on-Swale, Eppleby, Gayles (or Gailes), Gilling, Hipswell, Hudswell, Kirby Hill, Layton (East), Layton (West), Marske, Melsonby, Middleton Tyas, Moulton, New Forest, Newsham, Ravensworth, Richmond, St. Martin, Scorton, Scotton, Skeeby, Stainton, Stanwick St. John, Tunstall, Uckerby, Walburn, Whashton. The area is 81,122 acres; rateable value, Michaelmas, 1912, £96,265; the population in 1911 was 12,016.

Workhouse, Victoria road, a plain building of stone, erected to hold 120 inmates.

MILITARY

Regimental District, No. 19.

Alexandra, Princess of Wales’s Own (Yorkshire regt.).

Depot of 1st & 2nd Battalions (1sth Foot).

Barracks, Gallowgate.

Commanding Depot, Major E. H. Chapman.

Recruiting Officer, Major E. H. Chapman.

3rd special Reserve Battalion Alexandra, Princess of Wales’s Own (Yorkshire Regiment).

Head quarters, The Barracks.

Commanding, Lieut.-Col. Sir R. B. N. Gunter.

Majors, R. L. Aspinall D.S.O. (Hon. Lieut.-Col.) & E. H. Chapman.

Adjutant, Capt. T. W. Stansfeld D.S.O.

Quartermaster, Hon. Capt. J. Sheridan.

TERRITORIAL FORCE.

Divisional Troops.

Royal Artillery.

Comprising the:—

1st Northumbrian Brigade Royal Field Artillery, Newcastle-on-Tyne.

2nd Northumbrian Brigade Royal Field Artillery, Hull.

3rd Northumbrian (County of Durham) Brigade Royal Field Artillery, Seaham Harbour.

4th Northumbrian (County of Durham) (Howitzer) Brigade Royal Field Artillery.

Northumbrian (North Riding) Royal Garrison Artillery, Middlesbrough.

Head Quarters, The Castle.

Commanding, St.-Col. A. B. Shute.

Staff-Captain, Capt. R. G. Thomson.

Northumbrian Territorial Division.

Head quarters, The Castle.

4th Territorial Force Battalion, Alexandra, Princess of Wales’s Own (Yorkshire Regiment) (E Co.); Armoury, 10 Victoria road; Capt. H. C. Matthews; Sergt. Wicks, drill instructor.

PLACES OF WORSHIP, with times of services

St. Mary’s Church, Rev. Canon Neville Egerton Leigh M.A. rector; Rev. Frederick Harcourt Barnby M.A. curate; 8 & 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 7.30 p.m.

Holy Trinity Church, Rev. Canon Neville Egerton Leigh M.A. incumbent; 5 p.m.

SS. Joseph & Francis Xavier, Catholic, Newbiggin, Rev. Henry Farmer S.J. Rev. Charles Karslake S.J. & Rev. Ernest Lund S.J. priests; 8 & 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.

Congregational, Dundas street, Rev. James Hosking; 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.

Primitive Methodist, Burgate (Bedale Circuit), Rev. G. Wilfrid Taylor; 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.

Wesleyan Methodist, Market place, Rev. Joseph Parson (supt.) & Rev. John M. Mangles (supernumerary); 10.30 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.

Mission Church, The Green; 7 p.m.; last Sunday 11 a.m.

SCHOOLS

Richmond school was founded & endowed in 1567 by the burgesses & incorporated by Queen Elizabeth; the present school buildings, which stand near the parish church, are of stone, in the Gothic style, & were erected in 1849, in memory of the late Rev. James Tate M.A. headmaster of the Grammar school for upwards of 30 years, & afterwards canon of St. Paul’s, by his pupils & friends, at a cost of about £1,300: a large additional room & class rooms were added in the year 1867, and in 1900 a new school house & headmaster’s residence were erected on the site of the old Friary buildings, & a cricket field & gymnasium provided; under a scheme dated 15th June, 1909, the school is managed by a board of 12 governors; the Marquess of Zetland K.T. chairman. There are 11 entrance scholarships awarded in July & three leaving scholarships: there are now (1913) about 50 boys, including boarders in the school house.

Public Elementary schools

Lombard wynd (boys & girls), erected in 1825 & rebuilt & enlarged in 1894 for 440 children; average attendance, 155 senior boys & girls & 70 juniors.

Dundas street (infants’), erected in 1834, for 110 children; average attendance, 83.

Catholic (mixed), Mill lane, rebuilt in 1900, for about 260 children; average attendance, 104.

Catholic (infants), Victoria road, erected in 1901, for 150 children; average attendance, 52.

The sisters of the Convent act a.mistresses to both, schools.

Wesleyan (mixed), Quaker lane, erected 1848, enlarged 1887 & 1893, for 216 children; average attendance, 172.

ALMSHOUSES

Bowe’s Hospital, Anchorage hill.

Pinkney’s Hospital, Tower street.

Sanderson & Thompson’s Charity, Castle hill.