Edinburgh - The metropolitan city of Scotland, and county town of Mid-Lothian, is situated about a mile south from the Frith of Forth; in three degrees west longitude, and fifty-six degrees north latitude; and contained, according to the late population act, 9385 houses, and 82, 560 inhabitants, viz. 35, 361 males, and 47, 199 females, of which number, 13, 920 were returned as being employed in various trades and manufactures, and 1540 in agriculture.

The city originally occupied the ridge of a hill from west to east, which is about a mile in length, and whose sides are pretty steep, though built upon. The castle terminates the upper extremity, which is a bold abrupt rock; and the palace of Holyrood-house the lower extremity. Of late the city has extended itself on both sides. To the north, the new town covers an elevated plain, the ground having a gentle declivity on both sides, and makes a very fine appearance. To the south the buildings are more irregular, and in general much inferior in elegance. The ground upon which the new town stands being nearly all built upon, a second new town, as it may be called, is begun to the north, uniting the fields to Heriot’s Hospital and the grounds of Belvue in one plan.

Few places indeed have experienced the rapid paces of modern improvement more than Edinburgh. In little more than half a century ago it was a small city, almost entirely within the walls, and one side of the castle hill. Since that time a new town has been built, and such a number of streets and squares erected, that the circumference is not less than seven miles. It contains ten parishes, besides the out-parishes of Canongate and St. Cuthbert, and North and south Leith. The whole now stands on three hills: the middle hill, which is narrow and steep, is occupied by the old town, the houses of which are generally of great height, in some instance of seven, eleven, and even to fourteen stories.

From the castle which stands on the western point of the hill, extends a broad street, a mile long. On each side of this hill, the buildings divide each way, in narrow lanes towards the north and south. The hill on which the old town stood had once a lake on each side, towards the north and south, now both built over. The old town is continued to the southern hill, with bridges of communication between. The new town, or modern part of Edinburgh is built entirely of stone, with considerable taste, on the northern hill, and consists of a number of streets, built in straight lines, and intersected with handsome squares. The city was first fortified and walled in the year 1450, in the reign of James II. and some of the walls are yet remaining.Stolen from Fore bears

The origin of the name Edinburgh, like that of most other cities, is very uncertain. Some imagine it to be derived from Eth, a king of the Picts; others from Edwin, a Saxon prince of Northumberland, who overran the whole or greatest part of the territories of the Picts about the year 617; while others derive it from the Gaelic words, Dun Edin, signifying the face of a hill. The name Edinburgh, however seems to have been unknown in the time of the Romans. The most ancient, title by which we find this city distinguished, is that of Castelh Mynyd Agned; which in the British language signifies "The fortress of the Hill of St. Agnes." Afterwards it was named Castrum Pudlarum, because the Pictish princesses were educated in the castle, (a necessary protection in those barbarous ages) till they were married. The ages in which these names were given cannot now be exactly ascertained, but we cannot agree with the inference drawn by Mr. Whitaker, against the antiquity of this city, from the battle said to have been fought on the spot by king Arthur in the fifth century. That battle might have been fought on the north or south sides of the town, or on the low ground where the Canongate now stands, and yet the city itself have been built and inhabited many centuries before; which, in all probability, it was, on account of the protection afforded by the castle, the antiquity of which is undoubted.

The public buildings in Edinburgh are numerous, and many of them are exceedingly magnificent; in describing them we shall commence with the castle, which stands on a high rock, accessible only on the east side; on all others it is very steep, and in some places perpendicular. It is about three hundred feet high from its base; so that previous to the invention of artillery it might have well been deemed impregnable, though the event shewed that it was not. The entrance to this fortress is defended by an outer barrier of palisades; within this is a dry ditch, draw-bridge, and gate, defended by two batteries which flank it; and the whole is commanded by an half moon mounted with cannon, carrying balls of twelve pounds. Beyond these are two gateways, the first of which is very strong, and has two portcullises. Immediately beyond the second gateway, on the right hand, is a battery mounted with cannon, carrying balls of twelve and eighteen pounds weight. —On the north side are a mortar and some gun batteries.

The upper part of the castle contains a half-moon battery, a chapel, a parade for exercise, and a number of houses in the form of a square, which are laid out in barracks for the officers there are also other barracks sufficient to contain one thousand men; a powder magazine, bomb-proof; a grand arsenal, capable of containing eight thousand stand of arms; and other apartments which can contain full twenty-two thousand more; so that thirty-thousand stand of arms may be conveniently lodged in this castle: and within these few years additional barracks have been built at the back of the governor’s house.

On the east side of the square were formerly royal apartments, in one of which king James VI. was born, and which is still shewn to those who visit the castle: in another the regalia of Scotland were deposited on the 26th of March, 1707, and were long supposed to be still kept there; but were never shewn. Hence a suspicion arose that they had been privately carried to London, which was confirmed by the keeper of the jewel office in the Tower of London showing a crown, which he calls the crown of Scotland: within these few years, however, the Crown Room was opened by Lord Adam Gordon, in the presence of some noblemen, who found only a leaden chest, containing a few old charters.

The governor of the castle is generally a nobleman, whose place is worth about 1,000l. a year; and that of deputy governor, 500l. This last resides in the house appointed for the governor, as the latter never inhabits it. There is also a fort-major, a store-keeper, master-gunner, and chaplain; but as this last does not reside in the castle, worship is seldom performed in the chapel.

The parliament-house was formerly included in the great square on the top, and the royal gardens were in the marsh afterwards called the North Loch; the king’s stables being on the south side, where the houses still retain the name, and the place where the barns were still retains the name of Castle-barns.

The castle is defended by a company of invalids, and about five hundred men belonging to some marching regiment, though it can accomodate one thousand, and this number has been sometimes kept in it.

Its natural strength of situation was not sufficient to render it impregnable, even before the invention of artillery, much less would it be capable of securing it against the attacks of a modern army, well provided with cannon. It could not, in all probability, long withstand a well-directed bombardment; for no part but the powder magazine is capable of resisting these destructive machines. Besides, the water of the well, which is very bad, and drawn up from a depth of one hundred feet, is apt to subside on the continued discharge of artillery, which produces a concussion in the rock; though this deficiency has been supplied within these few years by a pipe from the city reservoir.

The first historical fact concerning this castle is found in Fordun; who relates, that, in the year 1095, it was besieged by Donald Bane, brother to king Malcolm, assisted by the king of Norway. In the year 1174, king William I. of Scotland, surnamed the Lion, being taken prisoner by the English, in the neighbourhood of Alnwick, his subjects purchased his freedom by surrendering the independency of his kingdom: many hostages, and some of the chief garrisons, among the latter this castle, were delivered to king Henry II. as pledges for the performance of this treaty; but on the marriage of William with Ermengarda, cousin to the king of England, Edinburgh Castle was given back as a dower to that queen. Scotland was afterwards restored to its independency by King Richard I. in consideration of the payment of ten thousand marks sterling. In the year 1, 239 Alexander III. was betrothed to the daughter of king Henry III. of England, and the young queen had this castle assigned for her residence; but it appears that she was by no means satisfied with her lot, but complained that she was confined to the Castle of Edinburgh, a sad and solitary place, without verdure, and that she was excluded from all conjugal intercourse with her husband, who had by this time completed his fourteenth year. — During the contest for the crown between Bruce and Baliol this castle was, in the year 1296, besieged and taken by the English, and remained in their hands near twenty years; but was, in the year 1313, recovered by Sir Thomas Randolph, earl of Murray; when King Robert caused it, and the other fortresses recovered from the English, to be demolished, that they might not again be occupied by them, in case of future incursions. It was in ruins in the year 1336, when it served for the retreat of part of the Count of Namur’s forces, defeated by the earl of Murray, who held it but one day. King Edward III. on his return from Perth, in his way to England, visited Edinburgh, and gave orders for the rebuilding this castle, in which he placed a strong garrison. It was, nevertheless, in the year 1341, surprised by William Douglas, who, for that purpose made use of the following stratagem: Douglas, with three other gentlemen, waited on the governor; one of them, pretending to be an English merchant, informed him he had for sale, on board a vessel just then arrived in the Forth, a cargo of wine, strong beer, and biscuit, exquisitely spiced, at the same time produced as a sample, a bottle of wine, and another of beer The governor, tasting and approving of them, agreed for the purchase of the whole, which the feigned captain requested he might deliver very early the next morning, in order to avoid the interruption from the Scots. He came accordingly at the time appointed, attended by a dozen armed followers, disguised in the habits of sailors, and the gates being opened for their reception, they contrived, just in the entrance, to overturn a carriage, in which the provisions were supposed to be loaded, thereby preventing them from being suddenly shut; they then killed the porter and sentries, and blowing a horn as a signal, Douglas, who with a band of armed men had lain concealed near the castle, rushed in, and joined their companions. A sharp conflict ensued, in which most of the garrison being slain, the castle was recovered for the Scots, who about the same time had driven the English entirely out of Scotland.

During the reign of John earl of Carrick, who assumed the name and title of King Robert III. from a superstitious notion that the name of John was unfortunate for monarchs, the burgesses of Edinburgh had the singular privilege, conferred on them by that king, of building houses for themselves within the castle, and of free access to the same, without paying any fee to the constable, and subject to no other limitation than that they should be persons of good fame; for what service or consideration this indulgence was granted does not appear.

The Castle of Edinburgh has, at different times, served both for the residence of the kings and queens of Scotland, as well as for their prison; several of the great barons having possessed themselves of the persons of their sovereigns, in order to give a sanction to their ambitious intrigues. Thus James II. in the year 1438, was held here in a sort of honourable durance by Sir William Crichton, the chancellor, till, by a stratagem, contrived by his mother, he was conveyed hence early in the morning in a trunk: but he did not long enjoy his enlargement; for he was taken by a band of armed men, whilst hunting in the woods near Stirling, and re-conveyed to this castle. James III. was also confined here by his subjects nine months, till released, in the year 1482, by the Duke of Albany, assisted by the citizens of Edinburgh, who surprised the castle. During the troubles under the reign of Queen Mary, this fortress was held for her by Kirkaldy, who defended it with great gallantry against the regent, assisted by an English army, commanded by Sir William Drury; but a great part of the fortifications being demolished by five batteries, consisting of thirty-one guns, erected against it, the spur or blockhouse on the east being taken by assault, the well choaked up with rubbish, and every other supply of water cut off, it surrendered on the 29th of May, 1573, after a siege of thirty-three days. The English general in the name of his royal mistress, promised favourable treatment to the governor; he was nevertheless delivered up to the regent, who basely caused him to be hanged. The castle having, as is said, suffered considerable damage by the siege, the regent caused it to be thoroughly repaired.

In the year 1577, after Morton had resigned the government into the hands of the young king his brother, then governor of this castle, he refused to deliver it up, and endeavoured to victual it for a siege; but being opposed by the citizens, he, on obtaining a pardon, surrendered it. In the year 1650 it sustained a siege of above two months, against the parliamentary army, commanded by Cromwell, and at last surrendered on honourable terms.

At the revolution this castle was long held for king James, by the Duke of Gordon, with a weak and ill-provided garrison.

In the rebellion of 1715 the rebels made ah unsuccessful attempt to surprise this castle; and in that of 1745, notwithstanding the rebels were masters of the town of Edinburgh, they did not venture to attack the castle; nor could they even cut off the communication.

At the top of this street, on the left hand, stands the great reservoir for the city. The water is conveyed, partly by iron and partly by leaden pipes, from the rising grounds about four miles south of the cistern. Besides this, there is another cistern of a circular form erected in Heriot’s Gardens; each contains upwards of 291 tons of water.

At the termination of the Castle Hill, as we go down, stands the Weigh House, a very clumsy awkward pile: and a little farther down, another clumsy and offensive fabric obstructs the view, namely, the Prison and Luckenbooths; these, however, it is in contemplation to remove. The High Street here expands to its proper width, from eighty to ninety feet, is quite straight, and from which a view opens to the Frith of Forth.

The palace of Holyrood-House, though much neglected, is the only royal habitation in Scotland that is not in ruins. It is a handsome square, of two hundred and thirty feet in the inside, surrounded with piazza. The front facing the west consists of two double towers, joined by a beautiful low building, adorned with a double balustrade above. The gateway in the middle is decorated with double stone columns, supporting a cupola in the middle, representing an imperial crown, with a clock underneath. On the right hand is the great staircase, which leads to the council-chamber, and the royal apartments: these are large and spacious, but unfurnished; in one of them, however, the Scots peers meet, to elect sixteen of their number to represent them in the British parliament. The gallery, which is on the left hand, measures one hundred and fifty feet, by twenty-seven and a half; and is adorned with the supposed portraits of all the kings of Scotland, from Fergus I. to James VII.

In the apariments of the Duke of Hamilton, which he possesses as hereditary keeper of the palace, Queen Mary’s bed of crimson damask, bordered with green fringes and tassels, is still to be seen, but it is almost reduced to rags. Here also strangers are shewn a piece of wainscot, hung upon hinges, which opens in a trap-stair communicating with the apartments below: through this passage Lord Darnley and the other conspirators rushed in to murder the unhappy Rizzio; towards the outward door of these apartments are large dusky spots on the floor, said to have been occasioned by Rizzio’s blood, which could never be washed out: but a very slight degree of skill in chemistry is sufficient to perpetuate a miracle of this kind.

In the lodgings assigned to Lord Dunmore is a picture by Van Dyke, esteemed a masterly performance, of King Charles I. and his queen going a hunting. — There are likewise the portraits of their present majesties at full length, by Ramsey. The lodgings above the royal apartments are occupied by the Duke of Argyle, as heritable master of the household.

The front of this palace is two stories high, the roof flat; but at each end the front projects, and is ornamented with circular towers at the angles: here the building is much higher, and the rest of the palace is three stories in height.

The north-west towers of this palace were built by by James V. for his own residence; and his name is still to he seen below a niche in one of them. During the minority of Queen Mary, this palace was burnt by the English; but soon after repaired, and enlarged beyond its present size. At that time it consisted of five courts, the most westerly of which was the largest; it was bounded on the east by the front of the palace, which occupied the same space that it does at present; but the building itself extended farther to the south. At the north-west corner was a strong gate, with Gothic pillars, arches, and towers, part of which was pulled down a few years ago. Great part of the palace was burnt by Cromwell’s soldiers; but it was repaired and altered into its present form after the Restoration. The fabric was planned by Sir William Bruce, a celebrated architect, and executed by Robert Mylne, mason.

The environs of the palace afford an asylum for insolvent debtors; and adjoining to it is a field called St. Anne’s yards; beyond which there is an extensive park, called the King's Park, which, with the Duke’s Walk, and the hills of Arthur’s Seat, Salisbury Craigs, and St. Leonard’s Hill, are all within the privilege of the sanctuary.

Considerable reparations and improvements have been made upon the palace within these few years; partly at the expence of government, and partly of Lord Adam Gordon, who resides in a part of it. The open area or square before the principal gate has been new-paved and laid out to the best advantage; and the bowling green behind it on the east has been surrounded with a new dike and iron rails.

The palace has been of late years the residence of the cidevant French princes, the count d’Artois and the duke of Angoulesme.

Adjoining the palace formerly stood the ancient Abbey of Holyrood-House, so called from its being dedicated to the Holy Cross. It was built in the year 1128 by David I. king of Scotland, for canons regular of the order of St. Augustine. Great part of this abbey was pulled down at the reformation, but the gatehouse remained for several years afterwards, and was superior to any structure of the same nature now in England. The conventual church was one of the finest in Scotland, and in it were buried several of the Scottish kings and their children; but king James having set up the popish mass in it, the people were so exasperated, that as soon as they heard that the prince of Orange had landed in England, they rose in great numbers and demolished all the pews and galleries.

In the steeple of this stately structure were some good bells, and in the church were many ancient monuments; but not having been used since the revolution, except as a burying place, in the year 1769 the whole fell to the ground.

In the middle of the High Street stands the Tol- booth, a ruinous pile, which it has long been in contemplation to remove; near this stands St. Giles’s church, or the cathedral, which was made collegiate by James III. the four quarters of whose cross were converted into four distinct parish churches; of which the choir or New Church makes the principal church in the city; the centre is called the Old Church; the south-west quarter the Tolbooth Church; and the north-west Haddo’s Hole Church, from Sir John Gordon of Haddo having being confined in it till his execution, in the year 1642, for holding out his castle of Haddo for Charles I. In other parts of this church the general assembly and the convention of royal burghs meet; several clerks have their offices; and one room is used as the city cartulary.

This is the most ancient church in Edinburgh. From a passage in an old author called Simeon Dunelmensis, some conjecture it to have been built before the year 854; but we do not find express mention made of it before 1359. The tutelar saint, St. Giles, was a native of Greece. It was at first simply a parish church, of which the bishop of Lindisfarn or Holy Island in the county of Northumberland was patron: he was succeeded in the patronage by the abbots and canons of Dunfermline, and they by the magistrates of Edinburgh; who, at the time of the Reformation, when the church for the greater convenience was divided into several parts, seized the religious utensils, viz. St. Giles’s arm, enshrined in silver, weighing 5lb. 3 1/2oz. a silver chalice, or communion cup, weighing 23 oz. the great Eucharist or communion cup, with golden weike and stones; two cruets of 25 oz.; a golden bell with a heart, of 41/2 oz. a golden unicorn; a golden pix, to keep the host; a small golden heart, with two pearls; a diamond ring; a silver chalice, patine, and spoon of 321/2 oz.; a communion table-cloth of gold brocade; St. Giles’s coat, with a little piece of red velvet which hung at his feet; a round silver Eucharist; two silver censers of 3lb. 15 oz.; a silver ship for incense; a large silver cross, with its base, weighing 16lb. 131/2 oz.; a triangular silver lamp; two silver candlesticks of 7lb. 3 oz. other two of 8lb. 13 oz.; a silver chalice gilt of 201/2 oz.; a silver chalice and cross of 75 oz. besides the priest's robes, and other vestments, of gold brocade, crimson velvet embroidered with gold, and green damask. These were sold, and part of the money applied to the repairs of the church; and the rest was added to the funds of the corporation.

This church is a fine Gothic structure, having a lofty square tower, from which arise several slender neat arches, terminating in a point, and supporting a very handsome spire; the whole ornamented with small turrets, intended to exhibit the resemblance of an imperial crown: the steeple is 161 feet high, and has a fine set of musical bells.

This noble pile forms one side of the Parliament Close; opposite to it stands the Old Parliament-house, which was built in the year 1640, and cost 11, 600l. sterling. It consists of a very large and grand hall, 122 feet long, and 49 broad, called the outer house, where the lords ordinary sit: it is ornamented with several portraits, besides a fine marble statue of President Forbes, by Roubiliac, erected by the Faculty of Advocates: the roof of this room is much admired. The other apartment, where the court of justiciary, as well as the lords of session sit, is called the Inner- house. The floor above was formerly occupied by the court of exchequer, but of late the Inner Parliament House has been greatly improved and enlarged, and how occupies the whole space. Below the level of the pavement, the apartments are employed by the Faculty of Advocates as a library, which is the best collection of books and manuscripts in this part of the kingdom. In the middle of the Parliament Close there is a beautiful equestrian statue of Charles II. in bronze, in which the proportions are admirably observed.

The Royal Exchange is situated on the north side of the High Street, and was founded in the year 1753, by that patriot George Drummond, Esq. It is a very elegant building, in the form of a square, and cost, including the price of the area, 31, 457 pounds sterling. Part of it has of late years been fitted up for the court of Exchequer.

When the foundation stone of this edifice was laid, there was a grand procession, and the greatest concourse of people ever known in Edinburgh. A triumphal arch was erected for the purpose, through which the procession passed, and medal were scattered among the people.

The next public building that attracts notice in going down the High-street is the Trone Church, whose original and proper same is Christ’s Church, though it is now hardly known by that name; it is an elegant structure, erected in the year 1641, with a spire. As part of this church projected several feet eastward upon the road between the bridges, the walls were taken down and rebuilt, and the projection cut off.

Still descending, no building attracts notice, till we arrive at the Cannongate Church, situated about the middle of the street which goes by that name; it has an open area around it, which serves as a burying ground. It was built in the year 1688, and cost about 2, 400l. being the accumulated principal and interest of 20, 000 marks left for that purpose by a Mr. Thomas Moodie. It was within these few years repaired in a most elegant manner.

In the year 1756 the High-Street was cleared by the removal of the cross; though many regretted this, as it was a very ancient and elegant building. In the middle it had an unicorn, placed on the top of a pillar, 20 feet high; but this fine ornament was broken to pieces by the tackle giving way, by which it was attempted to remove it. It is now erected at Drum, a seat belonging to Lord Somerville, about four miles from Edinburgh.

We shall now take a view of the other public buildings of this city, commencing with Heriot’s Hospital, which stands first in point of elegance. This magnificent edifice was founded by George Heriot, goldsmith to King James I. of England. His history is in substance thus related by Arnot, in his History of Edinburgh. George Heriot was the son of a goldsmith of Edinburgh, of the same name; his father brought him up to his own trade, which be followed in that town. On his marriage with the daughter of a merchant, in the year 1586, his paternal fortune, added to the portion of his wife, amounted to 214l. 11s. 8d. sterling. With this slender beginning, and another portion of 333l. sterling with a second wife, in 1608, he, by his industry and economy, accumulated 50, 000l. sterling, at that time a prodigious sum. In the year 1597, he was appointed goldsmith to Anne of Denmark, wife of Jams VI. of Scotland, and soon after to that king; on whose accession to the crown of England, Heriot followed the court to London, and becoming a widower, he returned to Edinburgh, where he took a second wife whom he survived; and dying without any legitimate children, on the 12th of February, 1624, after leaving considerable legacies to two natural daughters, he bequeathed the residue of his fortune to the town-council, ordinary, and the ministers of Edinburgh, in trust, for building and endowing an hospital, for the maintenance and education of indigent boys, the sons of burgesses of that city. This residue amounted to the sum of 23, 625l. 10s. 31/2 d. sterling, as appears in divers records, and other authentic memorials. The plan of this building was, it is said, drawn by Inigo Jones, and approved of by Walter Balcarqual, doctor of divinity, one of the executors appointed by Heriot.

Cromwell having taken possession of Edinburgh, after the battle of Dunbar, converted this edifice to a military hospital; and it continued to be appropriated to that use, till the year 1658, when General Monk, who then commanded the English forces, removing them on the governor’s providing them another hospital. On April 11, 1659, this house was opened for the purpose prescribed by the founder, when thirty boys were admitted.

The building (says Kincaird) consists of a square, whose sides measure 162 feet on the outside, leaving an open court, ninety-four feet each way, in the middle; the north and east sides of which are decorated with piazzas, and a wall six feet and one quarter in breadth. The court is paved with square stones, and has a well in the middle. On the north side of the square, and second story, is an effigy of the founder, George Heviot, cut in stone and painted; which the boys, on the first Monday in June, ornament with flowers, and keep the day as a festival in honour of their benefactor. Over the gateway is a spire and a clock, and the upper corners of the building are ornamented with turrets. The windows, in number 200, are also ornamented with curious devices; and notwithstanding there are so many, not one is to be found, similar to another. The sculpture, of which there is a great profusion, is remarkably well performed; indeed the execution exceeds the design; the subjects consist of texts of Scripture, and ornaments of foliage, figures, and representations of the instruments used in the trade of the founder, under whose statue is a Latin inscription, signifying that his person was represented by that image, as his mind was by the surrounding foundation. The funds of this charity are very great, the annual revenue being between 3000l. and 4000l. and a number of boys are well boarded and educated in it, amounting at present to more than a hundred. In this hospital the boys are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, and the Latin tongue. With such as choose to follow any kind of trade, an apprentice- fee of 30l. is given when they leave the hospital, and those who choose an academical education, have an annuity of 10l. a year, for four years. The whole is managed by a governor, house-keeper, and schoolmasters, who are under the superintendance of the treasurer.

Watson’s Hospital stands a little to the south of Heriot’s. It is named from its founder, George Watson, who dying a batchelor in the year 1723, left 12,000l. for the maintenance and education of the children and grand-children of the decayed -members of the merchant-company of Edinburgh. The scheme, however, was not put in execution till the year 1738, when the sum originally left had accumulated to 20,000l. The present building was then erected, in which sixty boys are maintained and educated. It is much less magnificent than Heriot’s hospital, but, the building is far from being despicable. It was erected at the expence of 5, 000l. and its present revenue is about 20, 000l. It is under the management of the master, assistants, and treasurer of the merchants’ company, four old bailies, the old dean of guild, and the two ministers of the old church. The boys are genteely clothed and liberally educated. Such as choose an university education are allowed ten pounds per annum for five years; those who go to trades have twenty- five pounds allowed for their apprentice-fee: and at the age of twenty-five years, if they have behaved properly, and not contracted marriage without consent of the governors, they receive a bounty of 50l. The boys are under the immediate inspection of the treasurer, schoolmaster, and housekeeper.

The Royal Infirmary, incorporated by charter, in the year 1756, is a very neat edifice, and has proved a most beneficial institution: above two thousand patients are annually admitted into it, of whom only one in twenty-four, upon an average dies. Analagous to this is the Public Dispensary, founded in the year 1776, for the poor, whose diseases are such as to render admission into the infirmary either improper or unnecessary. It is a neat building, and is situated in Richmond Street.

There are several other charitable institutions; a Trades Hospital, and a Merchants’ Hospital for girls; three charity work-houses, an alms-house, called the Trinity Hospital; Gillespie’s Hospital, and the Orphan Hospital; but none except the two last, deserves notice as buildings.

The Orphan Hospital was planned in the year 1732, by Andrew Gairdner, merchant, and other inhabitants. It was promoted by the Society for propagating Christian knowledge, by other societies, by voluntary subscriptions, and a collection at the church doors. In 17 33 the managers hired a house, took in thirty orphans, maintained them, gave them instructions in reading and writing, and taught them the weaving business. In the year 1735 they were erected into a body corporate, by the town of Edinburgh; and in 1742, they obtained a charter of erection from George II. appointing most of the great officers of state in Scotland, and the heads of the different societies in Edinburgh, members of this corporation; with powers to hold real property to the amount of 1000l. a year. The revenue is inconsiderable; but the institution is supported by the contributions of charitable persons. Orphans are received into this hospital from all parts of the kingdom. None are admitted, under seven years of age, nor continue in it after fourteen. About one hundred and sixty orphans are maintained in it.

This hospital is situated below the north-east side of the North Bridge; and is a handsome building, consisting of a body and two wings, with a neat spire, furnished with a clock and two bells.

The philanthropic Mr. Howard reckoned this institution one of the most useful charities in Europe, and a pattern for all others of the kind. The funds have been considerably increased of late years, and the management of the hospital, as well as the budding itself, greatly improved.

Gillespie’s Hospital was lately erected, at the head of Bruntsfield Links; it is intended for the support of aged persons.

Besides the above-mentioned charities, there is an Asylum for the Blind, a Magdalen Asylum, and a Lying-in-Hospital; all which are under good management, and prove highly useful.

There are several episcopal chapels in Edinburgh; the principal one is badly situated at the bottom of the Cow-gate. It was founded in the year 1771, and is a plain building, with a neat spire: the inside is very commodious and handsome. The organ is reckoned a fine one; and, the altar-piece, by Runciman, is esteemed as a good painting.

A little to the west of the Orphan’s Hospital is the district called the New Town; of which we may with justice observe, that in general no city in the world can exhibit more regularity; beauty, and magnificence. The streets astonish and delight every beholder, and the rapidity with which they have arisen is no less remarkable.

The New Town was projected in the year 1752: but as the magistrates could not then procure an extension of the royalty, the execution of the design was suspended for some time. In 1767, an act was obtained, by which the royalty was extended over the fields to the north of the city; upon which advertisements were published by the magistrates, desiring proper plans to be given in. Plans were given in accordingly, and that designed by Mr. James Craig, architect, was adopted. Immediately afterwards people were invited to purchase lots from the town-council, and such as purchased became bound to conform to the rules of the plan. In the mean time, however, the town council had secretly reserved to themselves, a privilege of departing from their own plan; which they afterwards made use of in such a manner as produced a law suit. According to the plan held forth to the purchasers, a canal was to be made through that place where the North loch had been, and the bank on the north side of it laid out in terraces; but instead of this, by an act of council, liberty was reserved to the town, to build upon this spot; and therefore, when many gentlemen had built genteel houses in the new town on faith of the plan, they were surprised to find the spot, appointed for terraces and a canal, beginning to be covered with mear irregular buildings, and workhouses for tradesmen. This deviation was immediately complained of; but as the magistrates shewed no inclination to grant any redress, a prosecution was commenced against them before the Lords of Session. In that court, the cause was given against the pursuers, who thereupon appealed to the House of Lords. Here the sentence of the Court of Session was reversed, and the cause remitted to the consideration of their lordships. At length, after an expensive contest, matters were accommodated. The principal term of accommodation was, that some part of the ground was to be laid out in terraces and a canal; but the time of disposing it in that manner was referred to the Lord President of the Court of Session, and the Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer.

The fall of part of the bridge, in 1769, proved a very considerable disadvantage to the New Town, as it induced a suspicion, that the passage by the bridge, could never be rendered safe. Mr. Brown’s buildings in George’s Square, &c. on the south side of the town, being free from the duties, payable by those within the Royalty, tended also to retard the completion of the plan of the New Town. Notwithstanding these discouragements, the New Town is almost finished; and from the advantages of its situation, the elegance of its buildings, and their being laid out according to a regular plan, it has undoubtedly a superiority over every city in Britain. By its situation, however, it is remarkably exposed to storms of wind, which at Edinburgh sometimes rage with uncommon violence.

It has three principal streets, almost a mile in length, running from east to west, intersected with cross streets at proper distances. The most northerly, called Queen’s Street, is one hundred feet broad, and commands an extensive prospect of the Forth, the county of Fife, and the shipping in the river. George Street is in the middle, and is no less than one hundred and fifteen feet wide. It is terminated at each end, by two very elegant and extensive squares; that on the east is called St. Andrew’s Square, the other Charlotte’s Square. Princes Street is the most southerly, and extends from the northern extremity of the bridge, to the west end of the town.

The North Bridge, which unites the Old and New Town, was projected in the year 1763; but the contract for building it, was not signed till the 21st of August, 1765. The architect was Mr. William Milne, who agreed with the town-council of Edinburgh to finish the work for 10, 140l. and to uphold it for ten years. It was also to be finished before Martinmas, 1769; but on the 8th of August that year, when the work was nearly completed, the vaults and side walls on the south fell down, and nine people were buried in the ruins, and many more hurt. This misfortune was occasioned by the foundation having been laid, not upon the solid earth, but upon the rubbish of the houses which had long before been built on the north side of the High Street; and which had been thrown out into the hollow to the northward. Of this rubbish there were no less than eight feet between the foundation of the bridge and the solid earth. Besides this deficiency in the foundation, an immense load of earth, which had been laid over the vaults and arches, in order to raise the bridge to a proper level, had no doubt contributed to produce the catastrophe above-mentioned. The bridge was repaired by pulling down some parts of the side walls, and afterwards rebuilding them; strengthening them in others with chain bars; removing the quantity of earth laid upon the vaults, and supplying its place with hollow arches, &c. The whole was supported at the south end by very strong buttresses and counterforts on each side; but on the north it has only a single support. The whole length of the bridge, from the High Street in the Old Town to Princes street in the New Town, is 1125 feet; the total length of the piers and arches, is 310 feet. The width of the three great arches is 72 feet each; of the piers, 131/2 feet; and of the small arches, each 20 feet. The height of the great arches, from the top of the parapet to the base, is 68 feet; the breadth of the bridge within the wall over the arches is 40 feet; and the breadth at each end 50 feet.

The communication betwixt the two towns by this bridge, though very complete and convenient, for such as lived in certain parts of either, was yet found insufficient for those who inhabited the western districts. Another bridge being therefore necessary, it was proposed to raise an earthen mound, by filling up the valley, with the rubbish dug out in making the foundations of houses in the New Town; and so great was the quantity, that this was accomplished so as to be fit for the passage of carriages in three years.

"This mound (says Mr. Creech in his letters to Sir J. Sinclair, annexed to the Stat. Acc. of Edinburgh) is above 800 feet in length, across a deep morass. — Whilst the mound was forming, it sunk at different periods above 80 feet on the West side, and was again filled up; 1800 cart-loads of earth, were upon an average, laid upon this mound every day. This is a work unrivalled by any but Alexander the Great's at Tyre. "In a note be adds, "The height of this mound, from the surface of the ground, which was formerly a lake, is at the south end 92 feet, and at the north end 58. The quantity of earth, that appears at present above the surface, measures 290, 167 cubical yards; and it is moderate to say, that half as much is below the surface. This makes the mound, as it stands at present, 435, 250 cubical yards of carried earth; then allowing three cart loads to each cubical yard of earth, there must be 305,750 cart loads in this mound! It began by the magistrates accommodating the builders in the New Town, with a place to lay their rubbish; and this noble and useful communication cost the city only the expence of spreading the earth. Had the city paid for digging and driving the earth, it would have cost 32, 643l. 15s. Sterling, supposing the digging, carting, and driving, as low as 6d. per cart-load. It is not yet nearly completed to its full breadth."

The South Bridge is directly opposite to the North, so as to make but one street, crossing the High Street almost at right angles. It consists of twenty-two arches of different sizes; but only one of them is visible, viz. the large one over the Cowgate; and even, this is small in comparison with those of the North Bridge, being no more than thirty feet wide, and thirty-one feet high. On the south it terminates at the University on one hand, and the Royal Infirmary on the other. This bridge was erected with a design to give an easy access to the great number of streets and squares on the south side, as well as to the country on that quarter from whence the city is supplied with coals. South Bridge-street is supposed to be as regular as any in Europe: every house being of the same dimensions, excepting that between every two of the ordinary construction, there is one with a pediment on the top, in order to prevent that sameness of appearance, which would otherwise take place.

So great was the rage for purchasing ground on each side of this bridge, for building, that the areas sold by public auction at 50l. per foot in front. Mr. Creech says, "these areas sold higher than perhaps ever was known in any city, (even in Rome, during the most flourishing times of the republic, or the empire, ) viz. at the rate of no less than 96, 000l. per statute acre; and some areas, at the rate of 109, 000l. per acre; and in 1790, the area at the east end of Milne’s Square sold for above 151,000l. per acre.

At the extremity of the North Bridge, stands the Register Office, a most superb and elegant structure, after a plan by the late Mr. Robert Adam. It was built to preserve the records of the law departments, as well as the titles of individuals to their property, from the accident of fire, or any other destructive cause; indeed in former times the public records suffered from a variety of accidents. Edward I. carried off or destroyed most of the ancient records, on purpose to prevent any marks of the former independency of the nation from remaining to posterity. Afterwards Cromwell spoiled this nation of its records, most of which were sent to the tower of London. At the time of the Restoration, many of them were sent down again by sea; but one of the vessels was shipwrecked, and the records brought by the other were left in the greatest confusion. The Earl of Morton taking this into consideration, obtained from his majesty a grant of 12, 000l. out of the forfeited estates, for building a Register Office. The foundation was laid on the 27th of June, 1774. The front of the building directly faces the bridge, and extends from east to west two hundred feet, and is forty feet in depth, from the line of Prince’s street. In the middle of the front, is a small projection of three windows in breadth. Here is a pediment, having in its centre the arms of Great Britain, and the whole is supported by four Corinthian pilasters. At each end is a tower projecting beyond the rest of the building, Venetian window in front, and a cupola on the top. The front is ornamented from end to end, with a beautiful Corinthian entablature. In the centre of the building is a dome of wooden work, covered with lead. In the centre of the dome, an elegant statue of his Majesty, George III. executed by the ingenious Mrs. Damer, was erected some years ago.

The inside forms a saloon, fifty feet diameter, and eighty feet high, light at the top by a copper window, fifteen feet in diameter. Round the whole is a hanging gallery of stone, with an iron balustrade, which affords conveniency for presses in the walls for keeping the records. The whole number of apartments is ninety-seven; all of which are vaulted beneath, and warmed with fire-places. This building, which is the most beautiful of Mr. Adam’s designs, has been executed in a substantial manner, in about sixteen years, at the expence of near 40, 000l. and is one of the principal ornaments of the city.

A serjeant’s guard is placed here from the castle, for the farther protection of the records. The lord registar has the direction of the whole, and the principal clerks of session are his deputies: these have a great number of clerks under them, for carrying on the business of the Court of Session. The lord register is a minister of state; and formerly collected the votes of the parliament of Scotland, and still collects those of the peers, at the election of sixteen to represent then in parliament.

St. Andrew’s Church, in George-street, is a very handsome building, of an oval form; and has a very neat spire of one hundred and eighty-six feet in height, with a chime of eight bells, the first and only one of the kind in Scotland; it has also a handsome portico in front.

Opposite to this church is the Physicians’ Hall, founded in November, 1775, after a design of the late Mr. James Craig, who planned the New Town.

Though Edinburgh cannot boast of many public places of entertainment, yet such as it has are neat and commodious. The Theatre, the Assembly Rooms, and the Concert Rooms, are all worthy of the metropolis of Scotland, though none of them possess much exterior beauty.

The Theatre, previous to the year 1768, was private property; at that period, it was pulled down during a riot: upon which a royal licence was applied for, and the present house was built by subscription. It has an awkward appearance as a building, the front has however not long since been improved by a portico, and ornamented at the top, with a statue of Shakespeare, supported by the tragic and the comic muse. It cost about 5, 000l. including wardrobe and scenery. The shares are 100l. each; and the theatre when filled draws 140l.

Not far from this building, an amphitheatre, called the Circus, was opened in the year 1790, on the road to Leith, for equestrian exhibitions, pantomime entertainments, dancing, and tumbling. It is sixty feet in diameter; the house will hold about 1, 500 people. This place has since been fitted up, in a very elegant stile, for a concert room.

The Concert Hall, also called St. Cecilia’s Hall, stands in Niddery-street; and was built in the year 1762, after the model of the great opera theatre, in Parma. The plan was drawn by Mr. Robert Mylne. This building is now converted into a place of worship.

The New Assembly Rooms, built by subscription according to a design of the late Mr, Henderson of this City, are very commodious and elegant. The large room is ninety-two feet long, forty-two wide, and thirty six feet in height. They were founded in the year 1776, and have cost upwards of ten thousand pounds.

At the south end of the south bridge is the University, founded in the year 1581, in the reign of James VI. This institution consists of a principal, three professors of theology, four professors of law, eight of medicine, seven of arts, and one of agriculture and rural affairs, lately established. The number of students in the different classes is upwards of one thousand. The professors are distinguished by long black gowns, but the students have no particular dress. The old building being unfit for the accommodation of its various students, and having also become ruinous, the foundation of a very magnificent pile, designed by Mr. R. Adam, was laid in November, 1789. The east and west fronts of this pile are to extend 225 feet, and the south and north 358. There are to be houses for the principal and six or seven of the professors. The library is to be a room of 160 feet in length; the museum for natural curiosities is to be of the same extent; and the dimensions of the hall for degrees and public exercises are about 90 feet by 30. There are likewise an elegant and most convenient anatomical theatre; a chemical laboratory; and large rooms for instruments and experiments for the professors of mathematics, natural philosophy, and agriculture. The whole when finished, if not the most splendid structure of the sort in Europe, will be the completest and most commodious; and it will do the utmost honour to the genius of the architect and to the magnificence of the public. "So popular (says Mr. Creech) was this measure, that in five months the subscriptions amounted to 16, 869l." since which they increased to 32, 000l. which sum having been expended in finishing the north and part of the east form, the plan was relinquished for want of sufficient means. The estimate for completing the whole was about 63, 000l. The six columns in front are not to be equalled in Britain: the shaft of each is twenty-three feet in height, and three feet in diameter, of one entire stone.

The University of Edinburgh has, for a considerable number of years, been in very high repute all over the world; as a medical school, it has stood unrivalled; and in theology, the belles letters, and other branches of useful and polite literature, its fame is widely extended.

The Botanical Garden belonging to the University, is situated at the distance of about a mile, on the road between Edinburgh and Leith. It consists of about five acres of ground; and is furnished with a great variety of plants, many of them brought from the most distant quarters of the globe: the professor is botanist to the king, and receives a salary of 120l. annually, for the support of the garden. A monument to the memory of the celebrated botanist Linnaeus, was erected here by the late Dr. Hope, who first planned, and perfected the garden.

The Grammar School is a neat and commodious edifice. It was built by voluntary subscription, in the year 1777, and cost 4, 000l. It consists of a great hall, five teaching rooms, and a library. It is perhaps the most numerous school of the kind in the island; about five hundred boys generally attending.

The Observatory on the Calton Hill, though intended originally to form part of the College astronomical apparatus, yet some circumstances have hitherto prevented that design from being accomplished. It contains the famous reflecting telescope of the late Mr. James Short, perhaps one of the finest instruments of the kind in the world.

On the same hill, a Bridewell has of late years been erected in the Gothic style, after an excellent plan of the late Mr. Adam.

A little below the observatory, there is a pleasant gravel walk round the Calton Hill, which affords one of the finest prospects imaginable, varying remarkably almost at every step: on this hill is also a burying- ground, which contains a circular monument, in the Greek taste, erected to the memory of David Hume, the historian.

The Bank of Scotland was erected by act of Parliament, in 1695. The capital was originally 200, 000l. but it is now one million and a half. It had been customary to issue out notes for trifling sums; five- shilling notes were very common, but this had the effect to banish silver entirely; so that in the year 1765, it was deemed necessary to pass an act, prohibiting all promissory notes, payable to the bearer, under one pound sterling.

The Royal Bank of Scotland was incorporated by royal charter, in the year 1727. The original capital was 111,000l. sterling; it is now one million.

The trade and manufactures of Edinburgh are by no means considerable. Its population is much owing to the supreme courts being held here. The branches of manufacture, such as linen, carpeting, leather, &c. are comparatively on so small a scale as not to demand particular notice.

The British Linen Company was erected into a body corporate, in the year 1746, with power to raise a capital of 100, 000l. to encourage the manufacture of linen in Scotland; and it had the desired effect. It is now a banking company, totally unconcerned with the Linen Hall.

Edinburgh is governed by a town council, who have the direction of all public affairs within the jurisdiction of the city; it consists of thirty-three members, including the counsellors, ordinary, and extraordinary; from these are chosen the lord provost, a dean of the guild, four baillies, and treasurer. The lord provost is high sheriff, coroner, and admiral within the city and liberties, and within the town and harbour of Leith, and has the jurisdiction of matters respecting life and death: he is preses of the convention of royal boroughs, colonel of the train bands, &c. The bailies have jurisdiction under the lord provost; and the dean of guild has the charge of all public buildings, and no house can be erected without his warrant. The streets are guarded every evening by a patrole of the town-guard, as well as by regular watchmen.

For the better regulation of trade, there are fourteen persons, called deacons, one chosen from each of the incorporated companies; but no one can be elected, unless he has been a master two years at a time. The fourteen incorporated companies are, surgeons, goldsmiths, skinners, farriers, hammer-men, wrights or carpenters, masons, taylors, bakers, butchers, cordwainers, weavers, fullers, and bonnet or capmakers.

These companies are not suffered to have any particular conventions, or to make any bye-laws among themselves, without the consent of the magistrates, or town-council, except it be to chuse their own deacons at the time appointed, to make persons free of their trade, or to try their work.

The revenue of this city, arising partly from duties of different kinds, and partly from landed property, is estimated at about 10, 000l. per annum.

In the vicinity of Edinburgh are the ruins of several religious houses. In St. Cuthbert’s, or West Church Street, is an excellent stone quarry, which supplies the city; and near Stockbridge, in the same part, many years ago, a mineral water was discovered to issue from the rock, upon the south side of the water of Leith. It is called St. Bernard’s well, and was inclosed with a stone building; but which had been demolished by the speats of the river; Lord Garden- stone, thinking highly of the quality of the water, and finding relief from drinking it, caused a very elegant temple to be built over it, wherein is erected a statue of Hygeia, but which is much too large for the situation. This water is impregnated with iron and sulphur; is light upon the stomach, and highly diuretic.

The chapel dedicated to St. Rogue stands at the west end of the Borough Muir, and had a cemetery round it, where those persons of the city of Edinburgh who died of the plague were buried: when or by whom it was founded is uncertain. In the year 1532, the town and council granted four acres of land in the said muir to Sir John Young, then chaplain, on condition that he should keep the roof and windows of the chapel in repair. After the reformation, the performance of divine service here was left off, and the building and cemetery granted to private uses. The inconvenience arising from the loss of this cemetery, was, it is said by Arnot, severely felt by the citizens, whose burial-grounds are by no means adequate to the population. A few years since there was little, more than the two gable ends, and part of the side walls standing, and these owed their existence to the superstition of the populace; for the proprietor employed some labourers to pull down the walls, but some of them being killed by the scaffolding giving way, the accident was considered as a judgment on them, for sacrilegiously demolishing the house of God; and so universally was this believed, that neither entreaties nor extraordinary wages could procure workmen to accomplish the demolition.

About a mile to the east of Edinburgh, on the left, is a beautiful sheet of water, called Lochend, which supplies the town of Leith with that necessary article. A little farther down, in a hollow plain, are the remains of an ancient church, founded and made collegiate by James III. At the reformation, this church was ordered by the general assembly to be demolished, as a monument of idolatry; notwithstanding which, the east window and part of the walls are still remaining, from which it appears to have been a very plain building. In the church-yard is a vaulted mausoleum, of a polygonal figure, formerly the burial-place of the family of Logan of Restalrig: it afterwards became the property of the lords of Balmerino, and at present belongs to the earl of Murray. In this vault are the remains of many persons of distinction.

The cemetery round this church is chiefly used as a burying-place for the English, and likewise for the Scots of the episcopal communion.

Near Edinburgh are the remains of a house, called Marchiston tower, once the seat of the celebrated John lord Napier, baron Marchiston, who invented logarithms. This tower was attacked in the year 1573 by the associates, which occasioned the raising of the seige of Nidderie Seaton. In the year 1573 it was used as a prison by Drury, the English general, who was sent to the assistance of the regent Morton.

Arthurs Seat, a high hill, near Edinburgh, has a broad base, but near the summit it rises to a conical top. The etymology of its name is disputed; some deriving it from the Erse or Gaelic, others from the British prince of that name having from thence reconnoitered a Saxon army, which he afterwards defeated. Arthur’s seat is computed to be near 700 feet from its base, and 796 above the level of the sea: it is a most majestic as well as picturesque object from what point soever it is viewed; in some it has greatly the appearance of a lion couchant. On the south-west side there is a curious echo; and on the south side a number of basaltic pentagonal and hexagonal pillars hang down the rock; they measure about three feet in diameter, and are from forty to fifty feet long.

At the bottom of the hill, on the south-east, is the beautiful sheet of water, called Duddingston Loch, about a mile and a quarter in circumference.

On the north side of Arthur’s seat, are the ruins of St. Anthony's chapel, on an elevated spot, which commands a view over the Frith of Forth; a situation undoubtedly chosen for the purpose of attracting the notice of seamen, who in cases of danger might make vows to that saint. Such hermitages were common near the sea coasts in England, and other parts of Europe.

This chapel was a beautiful Gothic building. It was forty-three feet long, eighteen broad, and eighteen high. At the west end there was a tower, nineteen feet square, and, as is supposed before it fell, about forty feet high. The door, windows, and roof, were gothic; the last consisted of three compartments: a handsome stone seat projected from the eastern end; but the whole has been greatly dilapidated. By whom or at what time this chapel was built, is not known.

At a small distance, south-east of the chapel, stands part of the cell of this hermitage. It was partly of masonry, worked upon the natural rock. At the east end there are two niches remaining; in one of which formerly stood a scull, a book, an hour glass, and a lamp, which, with a mat for a bed, made the general furniture of a hermitage. The dimensions of this building were sixteen feet in length, twelve in breadth, and eight in height.

Adjoining to Arthur’s seat is another hill, called Salisbury Craigs, as some conceive from the Gaelic; in opposition to which, however, it is said to take its name from the earl of Salisbury, who in the reign of king Edward III. accompanied that prince to Scotland, and possibly viewed the city of Edinburgh from that eminence. This hill presents to the city an awful front of broken rocks and precipices, forming a sore of amphitheatre of solid rock, whose summit is 550 feet in height. This rock is used for paving the streets of London and Edinburgh.

Between these two hills, there is a recluse valley: immediately upon descending this valley, the view of Edinburgh is totally lost; the prospect of the city and castle, which these rocks in a manner overhang, is intercepted by Salisbury Craigs. Seldom are human beings to be met in this lonely vale, or any creature to be seen, but the sheep feeding on the mountain, and the hawks and ravens winging their flight among the rocks. This valley has much the appearance of a crater long ago filled up in part; the west side, which forms Salisbury Craig, having yielded and sunk down on one side.

Calton Hill, stands on the north-east side of the city. Its height is 350 feet from the level of the sea. We have already mentioned the extensive and beautiful prospects from this hill. It is proposed to erect a monument in honour of the gallant Nelson, on the site of the present flag staff.

In a wider circle, the hills of Corstorphine, Braid, and Craigmillar, &c. surround the capital; and at about four miles distant, the range of the Pentland Hills commences.

Corstorphine Hill, about three miles west from Edinburgh, stretches from north to south somewhat more than a mile. It has a gradual ascent from the west, but it is pretty abrupt and rugged to the east.

Pentland, Braid, and Blackford Hills lie from two to four miles south of Edinburgh. From the materials that compose them, the two latter may be considered as a continuation of the Pentlands.

The east end of the Pentland range is somewhat abrupt, and on the north part of the summit the naked face of the rock appears of a pretty lively white, when seen at a distance; its height is 1450 feet above the sea. This stone has got the name of Petunse Pentlandica, from its resemblance to the materials which are employed in China for the manufacture of their porcelain. This singular stone, contains such a proportion of the two ingredients which compose china and earthenware, viz. clay and sand, as to be capable of being manufactured into these, without any addition.

The Braid Hills are next to the Pentland. —Though the petunse rock runs through them, and appears in different parts, yet there are several other compound rocks here, but none very remarkable. Specimens of copper ore, and of black lead, have been found on these hills. There are also some veins of agate discovered in the rocks, but too thin to be of use.

Blackford Hills lie nearest Edinburgh, and are separated from Braid Hills by a small stream, called Braid’s Burn. They rise to a more conical top than Braid hills; the summit is 550 feet above the level of the sea.

There is no timber upon any of these hills, which gives them a very naked appearance. Between these hills there is an opening, that has been improved to great advantage; which, from its situation, is called the Hermitage of Braid. The present proprietor, Charles Gordon, Esq. has built a most commodious house on this spot, after the Gothic style, which affords a very agreeable summer-retreat.

Craigmillar is but a small rising ground, though, owing to the gradual ascent from the sea, its height is 360 feet above that level; on its top stands the ancient castle of that name, a favourite residence of Queen Mary. It makes a most venerable appearance, and the view from the windows is highly delightful. The rock composing, this eminence is chiefly freestone; but, to the south-west of the castle there is a stratum of indurated clay, forming a sort of schistous, which contains a good deal of copper, not in veins, but intermixed in an irregular manner through the stone.

Craig-Lockhart Hill, about two miles south-west of Edinburgh, rises from the west of the Linton road. It is beautifully wooded, and forms a romantic situation for a country residence. This small range is covered with fine soil, and is divided by a hollow, near the middle: where the rock appears to the north-west it exhibits basaltic columns, similar to these of Arthur’s seat; on the south-east, another set of basaltic pillars appears still more distinct than the former, and of considerably smaller diameter; they are not in upright columns, but form a very obtuse angle.

St. Cuthbert’s, or West Church parish, comprehends a considerable part of the suburbs of Edinburgh. It is in length about three miles, and in breadth two; and is by far the most populous in Scotland, containing, according to the late population act, 29, 636 inhabitants, viz. 13, 313 males, and 16, 323 females, of which number 1, 373 were returned, as being employed in agriculture, and 5, 606 in trade and manufacture. In this parish, which consists of about 9, 000 acres, are several free-stone quarries, which supply the city, and contribute to its elegance: the six columns in front of the New College, measuring each twenty-three feet by three, the largest perhaps of one entire stone in the island, were presented by the proprietors of Craigleith quarry in this parish.

Edenburgh, once the Seat of the Kings of Scotland, and the place wherein the Seat and Courts of Justice were held. It is seated in a fruitfull Soyl, and wholesome Air, having many Noblemens Houses lying about it, and abounds with many Springs, and sweet Waters. The Buildings are of unpolished Stone, but the Galleries of Timber, built upon the fronts of the Houses, do rather obscure than adorn them. The City consists especially of one broad and fair Street, which is in length from East to West about a mile, and is the sole ornament thereof; the rest of the Streets and Allies being of very poor Building, and inhabited with very poor People. At the end towards the East is the Kings Palace, joyning to the Monastery of the Holy Cross; and at the other end towards the West is a Castle, which the Scots hold to be inexpugnable.