Cardiganshire, called by the Welsh, Caredigion, and now more generally Swydd Aber Teivi, is bounded on the north by the counties of Merioneth and Montgomery, on the east by Radnor and Brecknock, on the south by Carmarthen and Pembroke, and on the west by the Irish Sea; being about 40 miles in length, 20 in breadth, and 100 in circumference; containing five hundreds, six market towns, and 64 parishes, in the diocese of St. David, with 50,260 inhabitants.

The sea has made great encroachments on this county, even within the memory of man, and tradition speaks of a well inhabited country, stretching far into the Irish channel, which has been overwhelmed by the sea. Of an extensive tract, formerly Cantrev Gwaelod, or Lowland Hundred, nothing now remains but two or three miserable villages, and a good deal of ground, in high estimation for barley.

On the shore, between Aberystwyth and the river Dee, after stormy weather, the trunks of large groves of trees are frequently discovered. In many places the roots appear so thick and uniformly planted in circles, and parallel lines, chat the shore resembles much an extensive forest cut down, though black, and hard as ebony. This has been at least a well-wooded and fertile country.

Seaweed is the manure made use of, and the quality of the grain is such, that it is sent to the adjacent counties for seed-corn. This county may be properly divided into two districts, the Lower and the Upland. Of the lower district, the higher grounds are in general a light sandy loam, varying in depth, from a foot to four or five inches; the substratum, a slaty kind of rock, however, produces when judiciously treated, good crops of turnips, potatoes, barley, and clover; the ground in the valleys is very deep, and, with some few exceptions, very dry; yielding good crops of hay for many years, without surface manure, which is scarcely ever thought of until it is exhausted and becomes mossy, and then it is turned up. The climate is much more mild than the midland counties of England; snow seldom lies long. The soil of the upper district is various, owing to the unequal surface; in the valleys it is chiefly a stiff clay, with a mixture of a light loam. Barley and oats are the principal grain of the county. Wheat is commonly sown; but in a less proportion than the other two. The exports of Cardiganshire are black cattle, taken to Kent and Essex, pigs and salt butter, besides barley and oats, to Bristol and Liverpool. Of its rivers, the principal are, the Rheidiol, Ystwyth, Clywedog, and Teifi. It also abounds in river and sea fish, of several kinds, and the Teifi is famous for a great plenty of excellent salmon.

These streams, with many others in the mountainous tracts of Wales, are in dry weather mere shallow brooks, yet by rains are often swelled to furious torrents, bearing down every thing before them, and tearing up even the soil of the valleys, which they till with gravel and stones. Several of them rise in the sides of Pumlumon.

Coals, and other fuel, are extremely scarce; but in the northern parts, and near Aberystwyth, are several rich lead mines, and some silver ore.

---

Parliamentary Representation of Cardiganshire

MEMBERS ELECTED 1895.

Cardiganshire also still returns one member, and under the provisions of the “Redistribution of Seats Act, 1885,” the Cardigan district of boroughs was merged into that of the county.

Cardiganshire County Police

Head quarters, Aberystwyth.

The force consists of chief constable, 1 superintendent, 1 inspector, 5 sergeants & 30 constables.

County Councils of South Wales

Local Government Act, 1888, 51 & 52 Vic. c. 41.

Under the above Act, after the 1st April, 1889, for the purposes of the Act, each of the counties above mentioned, except certain boroughs for which see below (a), became a separate and distinct administrative county (sec. 461-b) governed by a County Council, consisting of chairman, aldermen and councillors (the number of councillors determined by the Local Government Board), and elected in manner prescribed by the Act (sec. 2).

The chairman of each council, by virtue of his office, is justice of the peace for the county, without qualification (sec. 46).

The police for each county is under the control of a standing joint committee of the Quarter Sessions and the County Council, appointed as therein mentioned (sec. 9).

The coroners for each county are elected by the County Council, and the clerk of the peace appointed by such joint committee, and may be removed by them (sec. 83—2).

The clerk of the peace for each county is clerk of the County Council (sec. 83—1 ).

The administrative business of each county (which would, if this Act had not been passed, have been transacted by the justices) is transacted by the County Council.

(a) The following large boroughs shall for the purposes of this Act be administrative counties, to be called County Boroughs (sec. 30), of which the municipal authority has the power of a County Council (sec. 31)-Cardiff and Swansea.

---

CARDIGANSHIRE is a maritime county, situated on the western coast of Great Britain, and washed by the waves of St. George’s Channel. Its line of coast has in shape the resemblance of a quarter of a circle, and forms one side of the bay of its own name. It is bounded on the north by the county of Merioneth, on the north-east by Montgomeryshire, on the east by Radnorshire, on the south-east by Brecknockshire, on the south by Caermarthenshire, and on the south-west by Pembrokeshire. The western side is bounded by the ocean. Its length from north-west to south-east is about forty-eight miles; and its breadth from south-east to north-west twenty-two; though from the town of Cardigan to Llyvnant, on the borders of Montgomeryshire, along the direct road, it is fifty-two miles, one furlong, and thirty-six poles. It is about one hundred miles in circumference. The air, particularly in the southern and western parts, is mild and temperate. This county has plenty of tame and wild fowl, particularly partridges, woodcocks, snipes, &c., and in some parts foxes. Hares and rabbits are also very numerous, and its lakes abound in trout. It is well supplied with fish from the sea, particularly cod, herrings, &c., and its rivers afford the finest salmon and salmon trout. The country is in general mountainous, though there are very extensive plains, which, however, are boggy. In these are the turbaries, which supply the lower class of people with fuel. Coal and turf, however, are used near the sea coast, and wood, heath furze, and peat in the inland parts. The coal is chiefly brought from Flintshire or Glamorganshire. The hills in general are covered with short grass, but the valleys are extremely fertile. The lands consist of wood, chiefly fir (though about Havod, and some other parts, there is a good quantity of oak), and pasture and meadow. The commons of heath and small furze. The freehold lands are, in general, very firm grounds, but the commons and mountains in some parts are boggy. There is neither sand (except a little, about two miles from Cardigan in the high road) nor chalk in the soil; but several veins of fine clay, blue and white; and not much gravel. This clay is much used in the mines. The soil is generally loamy, about half a foot thick; then a thin stratum of yellow barren clayish earth, afterwards some gravel, then a testaceous rock; and, lastly, a solid bluish rock, inclining to the colour of lead ore, of which this county possesses great abundance, especially in the inland part. There is no lime stone, though the farmers make use of great quantities. This is, however, brought from other parts of South Wales. There is neither marble nor moor stone, but excellent slates. They will bear all weathers for many years. They are found chiefly upon the commons, though most of the rocks near the sea are composed of primitive schistus, intersected by large veins of quartz, and of a coarse texture, sometimes forming slate. In the inland parts the slates lie in alternate strata of shale and slate, each stratum about four inches thick; the slate is in compact masses resembling flagstone, of a coarse texture, but dividing easily, when quarried out, into large plates. The shale is the same substance, and of the same appearance as the slate, but is broken into small pieces two or three inches in length, with clay interposed between the laminae. The inclination of the strata with regard to the plane of the horizon follows the general irregularity of shale, varying even in the same quarry from perpendicular to parallel; whereas the rocks on the coast being of a coarse kind of slate, and not mixed with shale, preserve a perpendicular position of strata, though with some exceptions. There are also vast veins of glassy spar, white and very hard, which the inhabitants of the county call a hungry spar rider. The lead mines have been already noticed. Indeed the whole of this county is one immense reservoir of metallic treasure, awaiting only the spirit of enterprize, and the hand of industry, to bring it into use; but the attention of the inhabitants seems more turned towards agricultural than commercial improvement. The rivers in this county are very numerous, every vale almost possessing one. The principal one is the Teivy, which rises in Llyn Teivy, or Teivy pool, which is in the mountain about two miles to the north-east of Strata Florida. On the top of this mountain are five lakes, of which Teivy is the principal. Its circumference may probably be about a mile and a half. It is said not to have been fathomed, and is encompassed by a high and perpendicular ridge, which at once feeds and confines its everlasting waters. It has been thought by some to have been a crater, but the stones, with which the margins of all these lakes abound, and none so much as Llyn Teivy, bear at present no volcanic appearance. The other lakes being higher, there is no prospect here, except in the direction of Ystrad Flur, or Strata Florida; and that, though extensive, has little beauty. The rocks and stones with which the ground is encumbered, without any relief or vegetation, render the appearance of the mountain itself uncouth and disgusting. The distant hills on this side have no very striking character, and the flat which intervenes is so low as to be indistinct. Leland says, “Of al the Pooles none stondith in so rokky and stony Soile as Tyve doth, that hath withyn hym many Stonis. The ground al about Tyve, and a great Mile of toward Stratfler is horrible with the sighte of bare Stones, as Cregeryri Mountains be. Llin Tyve is in Cumpare a iii quarters of a mile being ii Miles be East from Strateflere. It is fedde fro hyer Places with a little Broket, and issueth out again by a smaulle Gut. Ther is in it veri good Trouttes and Elys, and noe other Fisch. Tyve (river) reunith from the Hedde stil almost playne west ontille he touchith within a vi Miles of Cuirmardin, and then tumeth toward the Northe.” The river Teivy issues from the lake by so small an outlet, as seems impossible to form so bold a river as it appears near Cardigan. Its course down the mountains is much retarded by rocks; it rumbles through the stony tract without any decided channel, and is not invested with the usual appendage of banks till it reaches Ystrad Flur. It receives a small stream about a mile and a quarter from its source, which comes from the north, and is formed itself by the junction of two still smaller brooks. It then continues its course about a mile further, to a place called Pant hywd, where it receives the Egnant. This river is also formed by the junction of two streams; the southern one taking its rise at a place called Blaen Moyva; the northern one coming from Llyn Egnant, which is rather more than a mile in circumference. Leland calls it Lignant and Heligna, and says, “It has no other Fisch but Trouttes and Elys. One side of the Poole, that is the South side, hath Trouttes as redde as Salmon. The west side hath white, likewise as hath Llyn Tyve. This Poole is seene to be fedde with no brooke, and hath a Brooke issuing out of hym of his oune Name, and cummth into Tyve in the West Side of Tyve half a mile above Stradfler.” Leland, however, is wrong in saying that it is fed by no brook, for it has two streams continually supplying it with water. The most northern one from Llyn hir, or Long Lake, and the other from Llyn gron.

Of the former Leland says, “Llinnher, i.e., Longus lacus, for it is iii Quarters of a Mile in lenght, having no great Bredthe nor Issue of Brok owt of hit, but plentiful Trouttes and Elys,” and of the latter, “Llingronn hath an Issue, and semid to me hard yoinid to Llin Gorlan.” Llyn Gorlan is about one hundred and fifty yards from these lakes, but it does not communicate with either of them, nor indeed has it any outlet. From Pant hywd the Teivy takes a westerly course, and at about a mile and a half from this, it receives the river Glasffrwd, which comes from south-east, having been formed by the union of two smaller streams which rise in the mountains between one and two miles off¹ The Teivy then inclines a little more towards the north-west, rather more than two miles, in the latter part of which it has made several curves; and here it is joined by the river Meyrig. This river comes from the northward, and about a mile and a quarter from its junction with the Teivy, a small rivulet from the north-west falls into it, and half a mile further it is joined by the river Marchnant, which has its rise about three miles and a half off. The Meyrig rises about two miles to the north-west of this junction. The Teivy now runs exactly south-west, and continues to do so for a mile and a half, when it is joined by a rivulet that rises about four miles off towards the north-east. Then meanders to the south for a mile, and is again replenished by the river Flur, which takes its rise about five miles off towards the south-east. Teivy now makes another curve about three-quarters of a mile, and then receives a small brook also from the south-east, not quite two miles in length. It then continues its curvilinear course a little towards the south-west for three miles further, and is there joined by the river Camddwr. This river, about a quarter of a mile from the junction, receives a brook from the westward about two miles and a half long. About a mile further it receives another also from the westward not quite so long, and about three miles further it is joined by another brook nearly in the same direction, and about two miles in length. The Camddwr from its rise to its embouchure is nearly seven miles in length. The Teivy now keeps to the southward for a mile, and then takes a curve towards the east for near half a mile, and is joined by another brook from the westward, which has traced a course of three miles. It now meanders two miles towards the south-east, and at Pont trecefel receives the river Berwyn from the east. This river flows through Tregarron, and at the distance of rather more than a mile from its mouth it is replenished by a rivulet from the southward. This is about two miles in length, and is increased by the junction of a brook from the east. The Berwyn receives the Croes river about a quarter of a mile from the last, which is about four or five miles in length. This is replenished by four brooks that alternately fall into it from the northward. The Berwyn is from its source upwards of five miles.² The Teivy, about two miles more to the southward receives a brook, about a mile and a half in length, that comes from the westward. Near two miles further it is again supplied by another rivulet about three miles long, from the northward; and at half a mile beyond it is joined by the river Brevi. This river is between four and five miles long; and rather more than a mile from its source it receives from the north-east a brook of rather better than a mile in length. The Teivy now meanders rather more than three miles further to the south-west before it receives any addition to its waters. It is then supplied by the contents of three rivulets which flow in one channel into it for a little more than a mile. Above this the three rivulets are between two and three miles long each. They all come from the eastward, and bear the same name. The northernmost is Clywedog issa, or lower Clywedog; the next is Clywedog ganol, or middle Clywedog; and the third Gywedog ucha, or upper Clywedog. The Teivy now continues its course nearly two miles further, when it is again replenished by the river Ffrwd, a river about three miles in extent, and which flows in a south-eastern direction. It then continues for a mile and a half, when it receives another river, between which and the Croyddyn, Lampeter is situated. This river is upwards of six miles in extent, and is fed by two smaller streams, one of which is a single stream, and the other composed of four small brooks. One of these brooks runs close to the church of Silian. The Teivy continues curving rather more than a mile further, when it is met by the Croyddyn. This river is between five and six miles in extent, has a northwest course, and is enlarged by no other streams. The Teivy flows on about a mile and three-quarters, and then receives a small brook from the north, about a mile and a hall in length, and which forms one of the boundaries of an isolated part of Troedyraur hundred, lying in the hundred of Moyddin. Rather more than a mile further it receives the Crannell. This river takes a northern course and forms the western boundary of the before-mentioned part of Troedyraur hundred. It is between six and seven miles in length, and receives four smaller streams, two on its western, and two on its eastern side. The Teivy then flows on without any addition for near three miles, when a small brook, a mile in length, joins it from the north. In then meanders for three miles more, when it receives a river near Ryddlan. This is four miles in extent, and receives three other streams. The Teivy flows about five miles further, and then is met by the river Clettwr, coming from the north-west. This river is near ten miles in extent, and takes its rise at a place called Blaen Clettwr. About three-quarters of a mile from its embouchure it receives a small stream from the north-west; and about the same distance higher up the river Einon meets it. This is rather more than three miles long. About a mile higher up the Clettwr, and a hundred yards from its banks was a fish pond, which served as a reservoir for a brook that comes from the north-east. The Clettwr receives a small stream and then is joined by the Clettwr vach, or little Clettwr. This Clettwr vach is about four miles in extent, and is fed by four streams during its course. After this the Clettwr receives seven small streams. The Teivy continues two miles to the north-west, and then is joined by a small stream from the north, about a mile and a half in length. Half a mile further the river Cerdyn falls into it. This river receives another stream about three-quarters of a mile from this junction, which is two miles long, and which rises at Blaen Cwm. It afterwards receives five more streams. It is about eight miles in extent, and rises near Rwstrws. About a mile farther the Teivy is graced by the church of Llandyssul, which stands prettily on its banks. Some way below this it forms an island about two hundred yards in length, and is afterwards met by a rivulet from the north. It then shapes its course to the southward, and about three-quarters of a mile further it meets with another rivulet nearly two miles in extent, and which rises at Blaen dyfrin. About three-quarters of a mile further is another island, and at the distance of half a mile beyond it Bangor church, though a poor building, is seen majestically standing on a rock, overhanging its banks. Here another rivulet flows into it; and a little more than half a mile further another, two miles in extent. About two hundred yards further a little brook runs into it. A mile and a half further on it receives a river about six miles in extent, which is fed by two other rivulets. Between the river and the rivulet above-mentioned, the banks of the Teivy are graced by Llysnewydd on the Caermarthenshire side, and Henllan church on the Cardiganshire side. Four more rivulets fall into the Teivy before it reaches New Castle Emlyn. Here its course becomes impeded by rocks, through which it furrows a deep, tortuous, and noisy course, and rolls with much impetuosity under the venerable bridge. The castle is almost surrounded by it; and it serves the purpose of a moat, which is double where the river first comes in. The verdure of the valley, thus intersected, adds a high degree of beauty to the singularity of the circumstance. This horseshoe bend is far more curious and striking than that on the Wye. At a little more than a mile beyond Newcastle Emlyn the river Cerry falls into the Teivy. This river is about nine miles in extent, and receives eleven tributary streams during its course. The Teivy here takes a curve, and flowing to the southward, at a quarter of a mile further receives another river, on the banks of which is Brongwyn, a neat church. This river is the continuance of two smaller streams. About a mile and a half further on, another rivulet flows into the Teivy; and three-quarters of a mile further Cenarth church, on the Caermarthenshire side, is seen on its bank. A little beyond this another small stream flows into it, and about a mile further a river five miles in extent. This comes from the north, and receives two smaller streams during its course. About a mile and a half further the Teivy forms another island of a triangular shape, and here it receives a river from Caermarthenshire, which divides that county from Pembroke. It may be noted here that no rivers have been mentioned as flowing into Teivy from the south, since it left Lampeter. The case is this, from Lampeter to this island the Teivy separates Caermarthenshire from Cardiganshire; and as all such rivers properly belong to the former county, they have been unnoticed here. The Teivy now turns towards the north, and at about a mile and a half further it receives a small brook which comes from Llandygwydd. About three-quarters of a mile further a smaller brook runs into it, and at the same distance further on it receives a river from the north, at the confluence of which stands Llechryd church. This river is between five and six miles in extent, and has the church of Tremawr on its western bank, about a mile from its source. After two or three curves to the south-west, a grand object presents itself on the Pembrokeshire side of the Teivy. Cilgerran Castle crowns a tremendous precipice, and consists principally of two circular towers, with part of a gateway finely mantled with ivy. Rather lower down, on the opposite side, is a house standing in a wood, called Coedmawr. Here also was anciently a castle. The river continues a north-western course between two and three miles further, when Cardigan, the county town, presents itself to the view. This, from its situation, is called Aber-teivy. Here a river four miles in extent from the north flows into it. Having now materially enlarged its stream, the Teivy takes a curve round an old fort, and flows with surprising grandeur into St. George’s Channel. The bar at its entrance is dangerous for shipping, and the present landmarks are of very little service in foggy or dark weather, as they can hardly then be perceived. The Teivy salmon are well known in England for their superiority, and no river in Wales produces better. Drayton expatiates largely on the beauties and natural curiosities of the Teivy; besides giving his usual catalogue of its attendant streams, as well as of other rivers in the county.

“Sith I must stem thy stream, clear Tivy, yet before

The muse vouchsafe to seize the Cardiganian shore,

She of thy source will sing in all the Cambrian coast;

Which of thy castors once, but now canst only boast

The salmons, of all floods most plentiful in thee.

Dear brook, within thy banks if any powers there be ;

Then Naiads, or ye nymphs of their like watry kind

(Unto whose only care great Neptune hath assign’d

The guidance of those brooks wherein he takes delight)

Assist her; and whilst she your dwelling shall recite

Be present in her work: let her your graces view,

That to succeeding times them lively she may shew ;

As when great Albion’s sons, which him a sea nymph brought

Amongst the grisly rocks, where, with your beauties caught,

(Whose only love surpris'd those of the Phlegrian size,

The Titanois, that once against high heaven durst rise)

When as the hoary woods, the climbing hills did hide,

And cover’d every vale through which you gently glide;

Even for those inly heats which through your loves they felt,

That oft in kindly tears did in your bosoms melt

To view your secret bowers, such favour let her win.

Then Tivy cometh down from her capacious Ivlin,

Twixt Meir’k and Brenny led, two handmaids that do stay

Their mistress, as in state she goes upon her way :

Which when Llanbeder sees, her wondrously she likes :

Whose untam’d bosom so the beauteous Tivy strikes,

As that the forest fain would have her there abide.

But she (so pure a stream) transported with her pride,

The offer idly scorns; though with her flattering shade

The Sylvan her entice with all that may persuade

A water-nymph: yea, though great Thetis self she were.

Mild Mathern then, the next, doth Trvy overtake :

Which instantly again by Dittor is supply’d.

Then, Ceach and Cerry help: ’twixt which on either side,

To Cardigan she comes the sovereign of the shire.

Now Tivy, let us tell thy sundry glories here.

More famous long agone, than for the salmon’s leap,

For beavers Tivy was, in her strong banks that bred,

Which else no other brook of Britain nourished :

Where nature, in the shape of this now-perish’d beast

His property did seem t’have wondrously exprest;

Being body’d like a boat with such a mighty tail

As serv’d him for a bridge, a helm, or for a sail,

When hind did him command the architect to play,

That his strong castle built of branched twigs and clay :

Which, set upon the deep, but yet not fixed there,

He easily could remove as it he pleas’d to steer

To this side or to that; the workmanship so rare,

His stuff wherewith to build first being to prepare,

A foraging he goes, to groves or bushes nigh,

And with his teeth cuts down his timber: which hardby,

He turns him on his back, his belly laid abroad,

When with what he hath got, the others doth him load,

Till lastly by the weight, his burden he hath found.

Then with his mighty tail his carriage having bound

As carters do with ropes, in his sharp teeth he grip’d

Some stronger stick; from which the lesser branches stript,

He takes it in the midst; at both the ends, the rest

Hard holding with their fangs, unto the labour prest,

Going backward, tow’rds home their loaded carriage led,

From whom, those first here born, were taught the useful sled.

Then builded he his fort for strong, and several flights ;

His passages contriv’d with such unsual sleights,

That from the hunter oft he issu’d undiscern’d,

As if men from this beast to fortify had learn’d;

Whose kind, in her decayed, is to this isle unknown.

Thus Tivy boasts this beast peculiarly her own.

But here while spend I time these trifles to areed?

Now, with my former task, my muse, again proceed,

To shew the other flood from the Ceretic shore

To the Vergivian sea contributing their store :

With Bidder first begin, that bendeth all her force

The Aeron to assist, Arth holding on her course

The way the other went, with Werrau which doth win

Fair Ystwydd to her aid; who kindly coming in,

Meets Rheiddol at her mouth, that fair, and princely maid,

Plynillimon’s dear child deliciously array’d,

As fits a nymph so near to Severn and her queen.

Then come the sister Salks, as they before had seen

Those delicater dames so trippingly to tread :

Then Cerry, Cletwr next, and Cynver makis head

With Einion, that her like clear Levant bring by her.

Plynillimon’s high praise no longer, muse, defer ;

What once the Druids told, how great those floods should be

That here (most mighty hill) derive themselves from thee.

From these lines, it is clear, that Drayton must have read the Itinerary of Giraldus Cambrensis; and his account of the beavers is precisely the same. As this has been thought by some a subject of curiosity, and by others made a bone of controversy, it may not be amiss to give the account of Giraldus and his commentators on that head. Giraldus says, “The noble river Teivi flows here, and abounds, more than any other river of Wales, with the finest salmon: it has a productive fishery near Cilgarran, which is situated on the summit of a rock, at a place called Canorch Mawr, the ancient residence of St. Ludoc; where the river, falling from a great height, forms a cataract, which the salmon ascend, by leaping from the bottom to the top of a rock, which is about the height of the longest spear; and would appear wonderful, were it not the nature of that species of fish to leap: hence they have received the name of salmon from salio. Their particular manner of leaping (as I have specified in my Topography of Ireland) is thus: fish of this kind, naturally swimming against the course of the river (for as birds fly against the wind, so do fish swim against the stream), on meeting with any sudden obstacle, bend their tail towards their mouth, and sometimes, in order to give greater power to their leap, they press it with their mouths, and suddenly freeing themselves from this circular form, they spring with great force (like a bow let loose) from the bottom to the top of the leap, to the great astonishment of the beholders. The church dedicated to St. Ludoc, the mill, bridge, salmon leap, and orchard, with a delightful garden, all stand together on a small plot of ground.

The Teivi has another singular particularity, being the only river in Wales, or even in England, which has beavers; in Scotland they are said to be found in one river, but are very scarce. I think it not a useless labour to insert a few remarks respecting the nature of these animals; the manner in which they bring their materials from the woods to the water, and with what skill they connect them in the construction of their dwellings in the midst of the rivers; their means of defence on the eastern and western sides against hunters; and also concerning their fish-like tails.

“The beavers, in order to construct their castles in the middle of rivers, make use of the animals of their own species instead of carts, who by a wonderful mode of carriage, convey the trees from the woods to the rivers. Some of them, obeying the dictates of Nature, receive on their bellies the logs of wood cut off by their associates, which they hold tight with their feet, and thus with transverse pieces placed in their mouths, are drawn along backwards, with their cargo, by other beavers, who fasten themselves with their teeth to the raft. The moles use a similar artifice in clearing out the dirt from the cavities they form by scraping.

In some deep and still corner of the river, the beavers use such skill in the construction of their habitations, that not a drop of water can penetrate, or the force of storms shake them; nor do they fear any violence but that of mankind, nor even that, unless well armed: they entwine the branches of willows with other wood, and different kinds of leaves, to the usual height of the water, and having made within-side a communication from floor to floor, they elevate a kind of stage or scaffold, from which they may observe and watch the rising of the waters. In the course of time, their habitations bear the appearance of a grove of willow trees, rude and natural without, but artfully constructed within. This animal can remain in, or under water at its pleasure, like the frog or seal, who shew, by the smoothness or roughness of their skins, the flux and reflux of the sea; these three animals therefore live indifferently under the water, or in the air, and have short legs, broad bodies, stubbed tails, and resemble the mole in their corporal shape. It is worthy of remark, that the beaver has but four teeth, two above and two below, which being broad and sharp, cut like a carpenter’s axe, and as such he uses them. They make excavations, and dry hiding places in the banks near their dwellings, and when they hear the stroke of the hunter, who with sharp poles endeavours to penetrate them, they fly as soon as possible to the defence of their castle, having first blown out the water from the entrance of the hole, and rendered it foul and muddy by scraping the earth, in order thus artfully to elude the stratagems of the well armed hunter, who is watching them from the opposite banks of the river. When the beaver finds he cannot save himself from the pursuit of the dogs who follow him; that he may ransom his body by the sacrifice of a part, he throws away that which by natural instinct he knows to be the object sought for, and in the sight of the hunter castrates himself; from which circumstance he has gained the name of Castor: and if by chance the dogs should chase an animal which had been previously castrated, he has the sagacity to run to an elevated spot, and there lifting up his leg, shews the hunter that the object of his pursuit is gone. Cicero, speaking of them, says, ‘ They ransom themselves by that part of the body for which they are chiefly sought after.’ And Juvenal says :

' Qui se

Eunuchum ipse facit evadere damno

Testiculi.”

“And Saint Bernard,

“Prodit enim Castor proprio de corpore velox

Reddere, quas sequitur hostis avarus opes.”

“Thus therefore in order to preserve his skin, which is sought after in the west, and the medicinal part of his body, which is coveted in the east, although he cannot save himself entirely, yet by a wonderful instinct and sagacity he endeavours to avoid the stratagems of his pursuers. The beavers have broad short tails, thick like the palm of a hand, which they use as a rudder in swimming; and although the rest of their body is hairy, this part, like that of seals, is without hair and smooth; upon which account, in Germany and the arctic regions where beavers abound, great and religious persons in times of fasting, eat the tails of this fish-like animal, as having both the taste and colour of fish.” Sir Richard Hoare, the last commentator on Giraldus, says, “I am much inclined to think that Avanc, or Afangc (i.e., beaver) is nothing more than an obsolete, or perhaps local name for the common otter, ah animal exceedingly well known in all our lakes and rivers: and the recognition of it at so late a period as that mentioned by Mr. Owen, considerably strengthens my supposition. Avancwm is evidently the plural of Avangi, composed of the words Avan, a corrupt pronunciation of Avon, a river, and Ci, a dog; synonymous, as I conceive it, with Dyvrgi, the water dog, which is the common appellation of the otter among the Welsh. The term Llostlydan, or broadtail, from Llost, a tail, and Llydan, broad, appears to be more immediately applicable to the character of the beaver, as described to us by naturalists, and is equally authorised by the Welsh dictionaries, though not so often used as Avangc.”

But two distinct animals are mentioned in the Welsh laws, the Llostydan, or broad-tailed beaver, and the Dyvrgi, or otter; and although the word Avangc is not at all mentioned, yet surely one animal would hardly have been mentioned by two names. But further, the Croen Llostlydan is estimated in those laws, at the exorbitant price of one hundred and twenty pence, whereas the Coen Dyvrgi, is only valued at eightpence. Again, Sir Richard says, ‘ ‘ the otter is an animal exceedingly well known in all our lakes and rivers.” Why surely this argument is directly opposite to his conclusion, for Giraldus would not have been so minute in his description of an animal had it been well known; and indeed he himself assigns this very reason as his inducement. The word Avangc cannot have been a local term, as a lake in Caermarthenshire is called Llyn yr avangc, and another in Montgomeryshire bears also the same name; and it by no means follows, that because the animal is said by Giraldus to be local, that the name should be so; and, indeed, as the name is clearly not local, this animal might have been, and in all probability at one time was more common. With respect to the term being obsolete, it is used by Tudor Aled about the year 1490. Naturalists give us this account of the beaver, that it is about three feet in length, and its remarkable tail nearly a foot. The head is thick and pyramidal, ending in a blunt nose. There are two strong cutting teeth in each jaw, and four grinders on each side in both jaws. The ears are short, and nearly hid in the fur. The tail, which is flat, thin horizontally, and about three inches broad, has a fourth part of its length nearest the body, hairy; the rest, which is entirely naked of hair, is covered with actual scales like those of a fish. The neck is thick and short; and the body strongly made, and highly arched in the back. The feet have five toes each; and the fore feet, which are small, have the toes divided; while the hind feet are not only large, but connected by a web or membrane. The body is covered with two coats of fur: one of which is very soft, downy, and of an ash colour; the other, long, coarse, and of a chestnut brown, which is the common colour of the animal. The colour, however, greatly varies in different parts of the world; being darker, in general, as we go farther north; so as, sometimes, to be found entirely black, which is considered as the most valuable fur. Not unfrequently the colour is uniformly white; and sometimes it is white, spotted with ash colour, or interspersed with reddish hairs. Cartwright, in his journal on the coast of Labradore, gives us a curious account of the houses of these animals made with sticks, though not so marvellous as that of Giraldus. Mr. Pennant gives the following description of the otter: “It has a black nose; and the upper jaw is larger and broader than the lower. It has long white whiskers; the irides are hazel; and the ears are small, erect, and conic. In the upper jaw are six cutting teeth, in the lower, four. The grinders are broad, adapted for breaking and comminuting crustaceous animals, and shell fish. The skin is thick; the hair, which is thick and long, is excessively black, and glossy; and beneath it there is a soft down. The colour sometimes varies to silvery. The legs are thick and short; the toes are covered with hair, and joined by a web. The hind feet are exactly like those of a seal, and have a membrane skirting the outside of the exterior, like that of a goose. The length, from nose to tail, is usually about three feet: but there have been instances of some being a foot longer. The tail, which is thirteen inches and a half long, is flat, fullest of hair in the middle, and sharp pointed.”

In short, the description of any of the three species of otter will by no means apply to the Avangc, or Llostydan.

But to return from this long digression to our former subject, the rivers.

The next grand one is the Aeron. This takes its rise in a lake called Llyn aeddwen, in the parish of Iylanrhystydd.³ It however flows due south for the distance of a mile and a half, and then receives the contents of a small brook coming from the west. It now takes an easterly course for a mile and a half, and then curves again to the south, and again receives a rivulet which rises in a lake called Llyn vanod, about two miles to the westward. At little more than half a mile further the Aeron is reinforced by another stream coming in the same direction as the last; and about a quarter of a mile further it receives another coming from the east. Here is a bridge over it called Pont goy, from which the appearance of the vale of Aeron gives some idea of the striking fertility and grandeur it is afterwards to exhibit. It continues meandering between its wooded mountains till it reaches Iylangeitho, where it divides the picturesque church from the village. Here it receives another river coming from the north, between two and three miles in length, and which is itself fed by three smaller streams. Just beyond Llangeitho it receives another river, about two miles in extent, which flows from the east. Rather more than a mile further it receives another rivulet from the south-east, which flowing through a wood, afterwards passes by Capel bettws Leicy. This has been increased by two small brooks itself. Not quite half a mile beyond, another river which rises at Pencraig, and runs almost due south, meets the Aeron. It takes a course above three miles in length, and is itself replenished by three streams, all meeting it from the west and running parallel to each other, at nearly equal distances. Aeron now continues its course for almost two miles, when a rivulet from Nantcwnlle meets it. About a mile and a half further it receives the Meiric brook, which is more than three miles in extent, and meets the Aeron from the south-east. Nearly half up this stream stands Capel Gartheli, and its embouchure is graced by the seat of Mr. Edwards, called in consequence Abermeirig. The Aeron now shapes its course towards Talsarn, but about half a mile before it reaches it, another rivulet from the north-east meets it. This rises close to a house called Brynele, and its course is nearly four miles in extent. Just beyond Talsarn a small stream empties itself into the Aeron, and about a mile and a half further another does the same, both coming from the north. About a hundred and fifty yards beyond this another comes from the south-west, about three miles in extent, having itself three tributary streams. The first it receives in its way to the Aeron, meets it close by a house called Argoed Llwydsiac, and has come from the west. The second is between three and four miles in length, and flowing from the westward passes by Llanllur, formerly a Cistersian nunnery of white nuns. The third stream passes by Ystrad church. The Aeron has now no increase till it gets to Tyglyn, the seat of A. T. J. Gwyn, Esq., where a petty stream falls into it, and almost in the same line, a larger one on the other side from Cilie Aeron. The next and last supply it has, the river Mydyr contributes. This river is between six and seven miles in extent, and flows through a pretty valley from the southward. It receives six tributary streams, one on the western and the others on the eastern side. The Aeron having during the whole of its course, with some small deviation, formed the arc of a circle, now disembogues itself into the briny ocean. The force of its waters forms a bar at its entrance, which, at low water, is always dry. Between the Teivy and the Aeron are eighteen brooks and rivulets which fall into the sea, but are too insignificant to be noticed.

The next river of any magnitude worth our attention, though inferior to the Aeron, is the Arth. This rises in the hundred of Penarth, to which it gives name, and is produced from a lake called Llyn Vach, about three-quarters of a mile from Llyn vanod, before-mentioned. It then fails into another lake about the same size as Llyn vach, and meets with no increase for three miles, when a trifling stream falls into it from the east. About two miles beyond this another river of between two and three miles in extent falls into it, coming from the south-east, and which itself is increased by a brook from the east. For three miles further the Arth receives no increase; but here a rivulet winding round the hill, on which stands Mynachty, the seat of A. T. Gwyn, Esq., and coming through a grove of fine trees from the south-east, falls into it. After this it continues its course without interruption to the sea. Between the Aeron and the Arth one small brook only falls into the sea. Two miles to the north of the Arth, another small brook runs into the sea; and a mile further the river Llon also empties itself into the ocean. This river rises about four miles off towards the east, on the confines of Penarth hundred, and receives no addition whatever.

The next river is the Cledon, which has a south-easterly course, and is about six miles in extent, and falls into the sea at Llansaintfraid, about three-quarters of a mile from Aberlon.

The next river is the Wirrai. This rises in the mountains above Cwrn-r-olchva, and passes in a northerly direction by the village of Llanvihangel Lledrod. At a short distance beyond this it receives a trifling stream from the east, and then makes a sudden bend towards the west. About two miles further it receives another small stream from the north-east; and a mile further, at the village of Liangwryvon, another which has come from Llwyn bedw. It then flows uninterruptedly till it laves the banks of Ystrad Teila, where it is met by the Wirraivach, or little Wirrai. This is about three miles or upwards in length, and comes in a curvilinear direction from the east; it is itself increased by two other streams. Just below the mouth of this river, the Wirrai receives another rivulet coming from Spite, and passing by Llandeiniol, about three miles in extent. One more stream from the south falls into the Wirrai at Llanrhystydd, after which it empties its waters into the sea. No streams intervene between this and the Ystwyth, the next river for our consideration.

The Ystwyth rises in the mountains, as Leland says, “owt of a mares grounde caullid Blaine Ustwith iii miles from Llangibike on Wy.” The first river it receives is the Duliw, which rises in a mountain about a mile from Llyn iwan ucha, one of the heads of the Merrin river. It separates part of Montgomeryshire from Cardiganshire, and continues to do so for about seven miles, and then turns inwards to Cardiganshire. Here receiving a tributary stream, about a mile and three-quarters further on it falls into the Ystwyth. At the confluence a very elegant stone bridge has been erected at the expense of Mr. Johnes. The Ystwyth continues to flow between tremendous mountains till it reaches Pentre briwnant, where it receives the Briw brook on one side, and another stream on the other. It now approaches Havod, and is, of course, about to receive all the embellishments art can give to nature. Two streams forming the eastern boundary of Havod fall into it, one on the north and the other on the south side. In its passage through this delightful paradise it meets with two more streams from the south, the westernmost forming the western boundary of Havod on this side of the Ystwyth. Over this part of the Ystwyth Mr. Johnes has erected another bridge.

This is in the Moorish style. Half a mile below the last-mentioned stream another from the north flows into the Ystwyth, about half a mile, the other part of the western boundary of Havod. Having now quitted the confines of Havod, it continues its course, overhung by well-wooded mountains, for half a mile further, where a neat stone bridge has been thrown across it, called Pont rhyd y gros, about two hundred yards, to the west of which another rivulet falls into the Ystwyth. This comes in a curvilinear course from the north, and has its rise near a village called Blaen pentre. A little more than a quarter of a mile before it meets the Ystwyth, another rivulet falls into it, taking its rise not for distant from the other, and curving in an opposite direction, so as to form almost an elipse. This has two tributary streams. The Ystwyth now takes a southernly direction, and then turns again, at nearly right angles, towards the west. Here it receives a brook called Nant-y-quarrel, or Quarry-brook, which divides its southern bank, and which flows in extent about three miles. The next object of notice on the Ystwyth is the romantic bridge of Llanavan, which, like the others on this river, consists of a single arch, and is built of stone. About a mile and three-quarters from this it receives two brooks, whose mouths are exactly opposite to each other. The smallest comes from the north, the other from the south. This last is called Crognant, and runs down the mountains between Llanwnnws and Lledrod. The Ystwyth having made an angle just at the stream it met with after flowing under Llanavan bridge, runs towards the north-west; and the next stream that falls into it after Crognant, comes from the westward. Just below this is a ford called Rhyd y Ceir, used by people coming or going from Llanilar to Llanavan. The northern bank of the Ystwyth is here adorned by the noble park and luxuriant farms of the Hon. Colonel Vaughan’s estate called Crosswood. A mile beyond the last stream comes another rivulet from the north-east, which rising a little above Rhosrhyd ycha, comes down a valley called Cwm Magwyr, and about a mile from its embouchure receives a brook about three miles in extent. About two miles further the Ystwyth receives another rivulet from the north-east, which rises a little to the north of the high road from the Devil’s bridge to Aberystwyth, between the eighth and ninth mile stone. This receives five tributary streams, and flows through the village of Llanvihangl y Croyddin. The next stream the Ystwyth receives comes from the south, passing by the plantations of Castle Hill, the estate of the late J. Williams, Esq., and in a deft it has made in the mountain by its impetuosity falls into the Ystwyth, just by the village of Llanilar. About two miles beyond it is reinforced by a trifling stream from the north; and a little further by a larger one called the Maide, from the south, which has been made by the union of two smaller. Here stands Abermayde; and here the Ystwyth assumes a most picturesque appearance. Two miles further it receives another brook, called Llolwyn, from the south, over which as well as the Mayde, is a stone bridge of a single arch. About half a mile further on the Ystwyth, where its curves, uniting with the well-wooded rocks on its banks, contribute to give it a most romantic appearance, stands Llan-ychaiarn bridge. Two trifling streams afterwards empty themselves into the Ystwyth from the south-west, when, winding round the base of Pendinas Mountain, it falls into the river Rheidol, just before that river meets the ocean, and gives name to the town of Aberystwyth. Leland says,” There is but a great Hill betwyxt Ostwith River and Stratflure. So that ther is but Distance of 2 Miles bytwixt the Streames of Tyve and Ostwith. From Strateflere I rode by rank hylli and valley pastures, a ii Walsche Miles, and so passing over Maknant a wild Brooke renning on Rokkes, and a nother whos name I remembre not, cam to the thirde caullid Nantlluys, and thereby on the right Hond I saw an Hille caullid Crag John, and so over Melewen river that thereby in sight went ynto Ustwith River. Or I cam to Melewen I had riden be the space of a iii Miles in Comeustwith. From Melewen I enterid to the Valley of Ustwith, so narrowly with Rokky Montaines endosid, that in Wynter the streame occupieth al the Botom of the Valley. First entering this Botom I saw on the right Hond an Hill caullid Menitheny.”

Leland must have been much mistaken in his calculation of the proximity of the Teivy and Ystwyth; for in their nearest approach there is between three and four miles. Maknant, or as its proper name is, Marchnant, has already been described as falling into the Meyric river.

Leland, in another place, speaking of the Ystwyth, says, “It is in Comeustwith, and so rennith good vi Miles thorough Comeustwith, and a vi or vii mo Miles to Abreustwith. About the middle of this Wstwith Botom that I ridde yn, being as I gesse a iii miles yn lenght I saw on the right hond on a Hille side Clothmoyne, wher hath bene greate digging for Leade, the melting whereof hath destroid the Woddes that sumtime grew plentifulli thereabout. I hard a mervelus tale of a crow fedd by a digger there, that tooke away his Feeder’s pursse, and wille the Digger folowid the Crow for his Purs, the residew of his felows were oppressid in the Pitte with a Ruin. So leving Ustwith Botom, and taking up a hy Hille I cam a mile of to a place wher I saw a great grene Place in a Botom, owt of the wich morich plot Ustwith doth rise, and withyn a flit Shot of that I saw an other like Plot, out of the wich spring a little riveret cumming to Wy that ranne a good Mile beneth in a Botom.”

The next river is the Rheidol. This rises in a lake called Llyn Rheidol, in the Pumlumon Mountains. These are three in number, though only one has been frequently erroneously so called. Leland made this mistake, as well as most modem tourists. He says, “I vuyd Penlimnmon the Hed of Wye. It semid to me a veri hy montaine.” Although only three mountains have been said to form the Pumlumon chain, yet each of these may be more properly considered as a vast bed of mountains, piled one upon another. The ruggedness and inhospitality of its environs are, in general, so unrelieved, that it affords little food for the picturesque enthusiasm of those who venture on the labours and perils of the ascent. It is the most dangerous mountain to ascend in Wales, on account of the frequent bogs, which hold out no warning, concealed as they are underneath. But the leading circumstance in the character of this mountain is, its furnishing a head to the three rivers (all of them celebrated by poets and topographers) of Severn, Wye, and Rheidol. To find the sources of two rivers so long, so copious, and yet so distant from each other in their courses, as the Severn and the Wye, with that of a third, in a still different direction, of scarcely inferior beauty, though less volume, all close together, supplied from the springs of these few mountains, is one of those unexpected occurrences, with which nature delights to surprise the admirers of her boundless skill and power. So remarkable a feature has not been overlooked in the topographical inquiries of Drayton, who has taken occasion from it to relate the story of Severn. He says of the Rheidol:

” But Rheidol, young'st, and least, and for the others pride

Not finding sitting roomth upon the rising side,

Alone unto the west directly takes her way.

So all the neighbouring hills Plynllimon obey.”

John Philips celebrates these mountains, though he mentions them as only one, in the first book of his poem on Cider. He adduces them as an example, that every soil and climate may be rendered productive and salutary, for all the purposes of cultivation, if a philosophical system of improvement, adapted to the local indications of nature, without aiming at the impossible products of more favoured regions, be pursued with a persevering indifference to immediate consequences. When Havod astonishes the admiring stranger, as the result of uncommon perseverance, when we see what has been done by one man in this neighbourhood, in the short space of twenty years, it can scarcely be unreasonable to say, that such an example, if extensively pursued, might in the course of a few generations produce such a change, as to render even these mighty mountains tributary to the wants, and obedient to the will of man. Philips says,

“What should I more? Ev’n on the cliffy height

Of Penmaenmawr, and that cloud-piercing hill,

Plinlimmon, from afar the traveller kens

Astonish’d, how the goats their shrubby browze

Gnaw pendant; nor untrembling canst thou see

How from a scraggy rock, whose prominence

Half overshades the ocean, hardy men,

Fearless of rending winds, and dashing waves,

Cut samphire, to excite the squeamish gust

Of pamper’d luxury. Then let thy ground

Not lie unlabour’d; if the richest stem

Refuse to thrive, yet who would doubt to plant

Somewhat, that may to human use redound.

And penury, the worst of ills remove?

There are who, fondly studious of increase,

Rich foreign mould on this ill-natur’d land

Induce laborious, and with fattening muck

Besmear the roots; in vain! the nursing grove

Seems fair awhile, cherish’d with foster earth:

But when the alien compost is exhaust,

Its native poverty again prevails.”

The same poet, in his Cerealia, has again selected this mountain for the subject of a simile, in reference to athletic sports, and rural diversions: if, indeed, the name of Philips, inserted in the handwriting of Archbishop Tenison, in the folio copy of 1706, belonging to the Lambeth library; together with the circumstance of its being published by Bennet the bookseller, for whom “Blenheim” was printed, be considered as sufficiently strong presumptive proof of its authentic ascription :

Now from the ensanguin’d Ister’s reeking flood,

Tardy with many a corse of Boian knight,

And Gallic deep ingulft, with barbed steeds

Promiscuous, Fame to high Olympus flew,

Shearing th’ expanse of heaven with active plume;

Nor swifter from Plinlimmon’s steepy top

The staunch gerfaulcon through the buxom air

Stoops on the steerage of his wings, to truss

The quarry, hern, or mallard, newly sprung

From creek, whence bright Sabrina bubbling forth,

Runs a fast Nais through the flowery meads,

To spread round Uriconium’s towers her streams.”

These mountains are usually termed Plinlimmon, but their proper name is Plymhumon, or Pumlumon. As two of these mountains form the boundary of this part of Cardiganshire, and as they are, in every respect, so remarkable, I trust this digression to describe them will not be condemned. I now therefore hasten back to the Rheidol. About a mile and a half from its source it receives a rivulet from the east, continuing the boundary of Cardiganshire from the Pumlumon mountains, being to the north of them, and receiving in its passage a tributary stream running out of them. A mile further the Rheidol is increased by another stream flowing from the westernmost of the Plymhumon mountains, and about a mile and a half in extent. About a hundred yards further another rivulet falls into the Rheidol, this also separates Cardiganshire from Montgomeryshire. It rises about four miles and a half to the northward, and receives a stream coming from the Escair vraith copper mines. It is called Maesnant. A mile further the Rheidol receives a small stream from the south; and not quite a mile beyond the river Camdwr falls into it from the north, so called from its meandering form. Its course is not quite five miles, during which it receives two other small streams on its eastern side. Just beyond the Camddwr another small stream falls into the Rheidol, which receives no other increase for two miles further; when another brook from the east meets it into which flows another called Peithnant. A mile further another brook called Hir nant, or “long brook,” falls into the Rheidol, also from the east. A mile and a half beyond a rivulet from the north-west meets the Rheidol. This is above four miles in extent, and receives five tributary streams, one of which, from the foaming cataract it possesses, gives the name of Wenfrwd uchaf and Wenfrwd issaf to two cottages situated on his sides. About two hundred and fifty yards further Rheidol receives a trifling supply from the west; but a mile and a half beyond, the Castell River falls into it from the east; this also has its bulk increased by five other streams, and flows nearly five miles in extent. A cross road leads over the Castell, and over the Rheidol, by means of two bridges.⁴

The Rheidol now curves in the form of an S, and receives a rivulet from the west, about three miles long, having two streams flowing into it. Half a mile further the Rhediol receives a trifling supply from the west, and is again increased by a stream from the east, which runs by the church of Spythy C’en vaen. We now approach the grand and tremendous fall of the Rheidol, the sublime features of which cataract should be viewed, as they cannot well be described. The basin into which it falls is agitated like a sea, by the violence of the shock: the rocks that have planted themselves across the channel are enormous; the hue of the waters is dark; the hills stand upright into the sky; nothing glitters through the gloom but the foam of the torrent; nothing invades the deep silence but its sound. The flashing of the rill from above into broad cascade adds inexpressible beauty to this grandeur. Opposite to this stupendous object, on a precipice of forests, at the height of more than a hundred and fifty yards, stands the inn called the Havod Arms. The Rheidol soon meets with the Mynach, and their junction may be here traced in this bottom. The cascades on the two rivers are not within sight of each other. The Mynach, or Monks river, rises on the east side of the mountains to the east of Spythy Ce’n vaen, and about half a mile afterwards is replenished by the river Merrin, which is formed by the junction of two streams, each issuing from a lake, one called Llyn ifan issaf, and the other Llyn ifan uchaf; that is, lower John’s lake, and upper John's lake. The next increase of the Mynach is from a river called Rhuddnant, taking its rise in Llyn rhyddnant, into which three small streams empty themselves. The Mynach then receives two small streams from the south, and prepares itself for that astonishing cataract, equalled only by the Fall of Narni in Italy. This truly Acherontic stream forces itself through masses and fragments of opposing rocks, hollowing out deep cavities, filled with the awful blackness of unfathomed waters, and thickening the misty gloom of a recess, impervious to sunshine. The first fall takes place about forty yards south-west of the bridge, where the river is confined to narrow limits by the rocks. It is carried about six feet over the ridge, and projected into a bason at the depth of eighteen feet. Its next leap is sixty feet, where it rages engulphed beneath protruding crags and pendant foliage. The third fall is diminished to twenty, through which it struggles to the edge of the lagest cataract, and pours in one unbroken torrent down a precipice of one hundred and ten feet. Here, in one volume of foam, bursting into light, which had been before obscured by the hanging branches of the wide spreading beech-tree, it seems to threaten, as it breaks against the opposing rocks, to tear the mountains from their strong foundations. The river therefore falls two hundred and eight perpendicular feet, without allowing for the declivity of the three pools. To this must be added one hundred and fourteen, which makes the perpendicular height three hundred and twenty-two feet; but as the river falls in an inclined direction in many parts, and as there are many interruptions during its passage, its fall may be computed at near five hundred feet. This grand cataract receives no inconsiderable augmentation of terrific appearance from the black stratified rocks, forming the glen down which it thunders. At the jut of the lowest fall in the rock is a cave, said once to have been inhabited by the children of one Mat, called in Welsh Plaut Vat. They consisted of two brothers and a sister, who infested the neighbourhood as plunderers, but their depredations were mostly among the cattle, which they used to steal and sell. Over this cataract is a bridge called Pont ar Vynach, or Mynach bridge; though the English, probably from its awful situation, have termed it the Devil’s bridge. In a tour through North Wales, written in the year 1803, at Birmingham, a traveller has coined a tradition of an old woman and her cow, and attributed it to the Welsh peasantry. Be it said, for the honour of the Welsh peasantry, that they are ignorant of such a ridiculous story, and that it can only be traced to an author, the whole of whose composition proves his ignorance of the manners, or language, of a people he attempts to deride. This bridge is a single arch, between twenty and thirty feet in the chord, thrown over another arch of less than twenty feet below, which spans the tremendous chasm. The lower arch was thrown over by the monks of Strata Florida Abbey, as it is said, about the year 1087; but as the Abbey of Ystrad flur was not founded till 1164, either it was not the work of those monks, or must be placed a century later. The river, however, must have been named from those monks, and as they had an hospitium at Spytty C’en vaen, in all probability they erected it for the accommodation of their brethren. In the year 1753 the present bridge was built directly over the original, which was left standing. Yet it is not so much the art of conquering the obstacles of this chasm that excites our wonder, but the chasm itself, the corresponding sides of which prove how firmly it must have been united. In the rocks about this river are several nests of the Formica Herculanea, the largest species of ants that are natives of Britain. These nests are composed of small ends of twigs, forming a heap, a yard or more across, and from one or two feet high. The insects themselves exceed in size three of the common black kind, and are possessed of uncommon strength; and their favourite situation is a wood in a light and rocky soil. The Rheidol being now reinforced by waters of the Mynach, continues its course along the valley for a quarter of a mile, when it receives a small stream falling down from the south-west, and shortly after another in the same direction, though a little larger. It continues its course down the vale of Rheidol, till it receives the impetuous Ffrwd from the south; and about one hundred and fifty yards beyond, another from the opposite side. It afterwards meanders for two miles further, and then receives another stream from the north, and two miles beyond another comes into it, which rises near Penbryn, and is about three miles in extent. About a mile further on it receives another in the same direction as the last. About two miles further, just where it forms a right angle, a stream runs from one part of it and falls into it again, forming the hypothenuse of this right angle. A house, situated on this brook, is called Nantciro. By such a disposition of its waters the Rheidol forms a triangular island. It now flows on, sometimes in a right line, and sometimes curving, till it approaches an old palace of the Welsh Princes called Plas crug, from the heathy mound on which it stands. It has been also called the Palace of Rheidol. Here the river separates, forming an island not quite two miles in circumference, called Y Morva, or the Marsh, which, during the winter, is entirely overflowed. It afterwards flows under Aberystwyth bridge, a handsome stone structure of five arches. Llanbadarn bridge, a wooden structure, should have been mentioned, which is over the Rheidol just before it forms the last-mentioned island. It now forms the harbour of Aberystwyth, and then falls into the sea. This harbour is, however, a very bad one, and a great part of the year is on that account lost to trade. Besides this, the bar at its entrance is so often choaked up, that the smallest vessels are frequently obliged to lie till a land flood sets them at liberty. A good harbour would be of the greatest advantage to the trade of the town, and of general utility and service in this deep bay, particularly to ships that are driven in by stress of weather, and prevent, what but too frequently has happened, their being stranded or lost. Improvements were about eight or ten years ago made on the north side of the river, but they have been entirely demolished; but it is thought if a pier was carried to sea on the west side, it would probably keep it within its bounds. At the Wug, on the north side of the town, a capital harbour might be made, by running a pier out on a ridge of rocks, which may be effected at the expense of about twenty thousand pounds, and would then render this the best situation on the coast of Wales, for the station of packets between England and Ireland. Something of this kind indeed has been attempted, but, I fear, on too limited a scale to answer the wished-for purpose. A back water might easily be had, by cutting through the low land at the back of the Wug, and opening a passage for the Rheidol to pour its waters into such a harbour. The next river is the Clarach, which rises in Cwmsymlog, and after flowing a little more than two miles, is increased by another stream about the same length running down Cwm Ervin, on which is a mill called Melinhen. The Clarach from its rise flows in a direct line from the east to the west, and it continues to do so, after it has received the last-mentioned stream, down a valley called Dyffryn y Pen rhyn coch, making only one curve during its course till it approaches Gogerthan, the seat of Pryse Pryse, Esq., within a quarter of a mile of which it receives a stream which has itself been augmented by two smaller ones, and which flows through a dingle called Cwm Casdewi, for the space of nearly five miles. About a mile beyond where the Clarach receives this river, the Pythyll falls into it on the south side, a river of about five miles in extent. About three-quarters of a mile further the Clarach is again enriched by a river from the north-east, about six miles in length, coming down a dingle called Cwm bringwyn, and which is itself increased during its course by three small streams. The Clarach now glides along a vale to which it gives name, and then empties itself into the main ocean.

Between this river and the Lery is a small brook, which rising in the mountain above the church of Llanvihangel Genau’r glyn, flows in a direct line to the sea, till within a quarter of a mile, when turning to the south, it runs parallel to the ocean for above half a mile, and being then increased by another small stream, it empties itself into the sea at Gwall Og.

The next river is the Lery, which rises in the mountains not far from the Camddwr before-mentioned, close to a house called Waun hescog. About half a mile from its rise it receives a small stream from the north. It then flows to the southward, to a place called Yr allt ddu, where another little stream increases it from the east. It then changes its direction to the west, and during a course of three miles it is replenished by the contents of four tributary waters, two from the north, and two from the south; the last of which is five miles in extent, and receives itself during its course two smaller streams. The Lery then continues flowing on about two miles and a half further, to a place called Tal y bont, where it receives the Ceulan from the north, though this river’s course has been nearly parallel to the Lery, and is five miles in extent. The Ceulan soon after its rise is increased by a small stream, and about a mile and a half by another, which rises in a lake called Llyn y voel, and near the confluence of this with the Ceulan, is a ford called Rhyd onnen, or the ashan-ford. The Lery, after quitting Tal y bont, runs through a valley into Gors vochno, and within two miles of the sea receives a stream from the south, after which it discharges itself into the arms of Neptune, having run a course from Tal y bont to the sea of near seven miles.

The next river, though not properly a Cardiganshire one, yet as it separates that county from Merionethshire, and receives some accumulation to its waters from Cardiganshire, must not be unnoticed. It is called the Dyvi, and rises in Merionethshire, after flowing through which it approaches Cardiganshire, just where it is met by a river called Llyfnant. This takes its rise in a lake called Llyn Penrhaidr, on the confines of this county and Montgomeryshire, and continues as the boundary of Cardiganshire, till it falls into the Dyvi. It is about seven miles in extent, and receives another stream into it from the south, which is itself increased by two others. About a mile beyond, the Dyvi is replenished by the river Einon. This rises in the mountains called Blaen Einon, and receives four other streams into it, in its passage down Cwm Einon. As the road from Aberystwyth to Machynlleth passes over it, a stone bridge of one arch has been thrown across it, under which it rushes in a small cataract, serving to turn the wheels in Dovey Furnace. It now passes Eglwys Vach, or the little church, called also Llanvihangel Capel Edwin; and just, before it falls into the Dyvi, another river called the Merau, which has itself received two supplies, and flowed for more than three miles from the east, joins it. About three miles further, another rivulet from the southeast, about three miles in extent, falls into the Dyvi, and about three quarters of a mile further on, the Clyttwr also joins it. This takes its rise among the mountains called Blaen Clyttwr, and receives no increase during its passage to the Dyvi, having run a course of upwards of seven miles. Four more trifling streams fall into the Dyvi, and then it empties itself into the ocean. A ferry is established here for conveying persons and their horses going to Aberdovy from Cardiganshire. Another small river rising to the south of the Pumlumon mountains, flows for the space of five miles in Cardiganshire, and then goes into Montgomeryshire.

The next river is the Elan, which rises in the mountains to the south of Cwn Ystwyth, and after running down rather more than a mile and a half, increases so as to form a pool. It then flows about three miles further, when a small stream from Montgomeryshire meets it. About a mile beyond this it goes into that county, and afterwards falls into the Wye. Just after it has entered Montgomeryshire, it receives the river Gwngy into it, which rises in Cardiganshire in a lake called Dlyn Gwngy, into which two little streams run down from the mountains. In the passage of the Gwngy it receives a brook called Nant-garw, and afterwards another, and then leaving Cardiganshire falls into the Elan. Leland has given us the following description of the Elan. “Aten river riseth in the blain or upper part of Comeustwith in Cardiganshire, and renning iiii Walsch miles cummith into Owy, caullid in Englisch Wy, a litle beneth Rather gowy a Market Toun yn Comemytother. The river Alan in the next Part of hit is viii Miles from Stratefiere, and ther parteth Cairdiganshire from the Dordship of Rather or Comemytother. Al the montaine ground bytwixt Alen and Strateflure longgeth to Stratefleere.”

The next river is the Gaerwen. This rises in a lake called Dlyn ruddon fach, and flows into another called Llyn ruddon fawr. Of these lakes Leland says erroneously, “Llin Veryddon Vawr havying Trouttes and Elis but no Broke cumming into hit, or going owt. Llin Veryddon Vehan having Trouttes and Elys, but no Brok cumming into hit or going owt.” After leaving Llyn ruddon fawr, which is about two miles in circumference, the Claerwen falls into Llyn Figgin, a small pool a mile beyond, on the confines of the county. Leland says of this, “Llinynigin Velin that is a Mile from the Stone by the south-west. Ynigin is to say a quaking More. Velen is yelow of the Color of the Mosse and corrupt Grasse about hit.” The Clearwen then continues to mark out the boundary of the county for more than three miles, when it receives the Claerwen fach, into which flows the Claer ddu, running down the mountain nearly three miles from it. Of these two rivers, Leland says, “Clarwen riseth in a Valley not far from Llinygin Velen, that is a good mile from Cargnaullim. After that Clarwen hath receivid Clardug he rennith a iii Miles or he cum into Alen river, far bigger river than other of the Gars. The first river be side Tyve that I passid over was Clardue, that is to say Black Clare, no great streame but camming thorough Cragges. In the farther side of hit I saw ii veri poore Cotages for Somer Dayres for Catel; and hard by were ii Hillettes, thorough the which Clarduy passeth, where they fable that a Gigant striding was want to wasch his Hondes, and that Arture killed hym. The Dwellers say also that the Gigant was buried thereby, and shew the place. Clarduy risith about half a mile from that place in a mares, and rennyng ii Walsch Milys in al goith into Clarwen.” Claerwen, after it has received the Claerwen fach, flows two miles further, and is then met by a river from the west, rising in a lake called Llyn Gynon, not quite two miles in circumference. Leland says of this lake, “Llinngynon upon a hy Montaine iiii Miles from Stratflure by South west, having Trouttes and Elys, and a litle Issue out of hit, and goith into the Broket that cummith out of Llin Helignant.” In this however he is mistaken, as it falls into the Claerwen, about three miles from its source. The Claerwen then becomes a Breconshire river.

The next and last river for our notice is the Towy. This has its rise near a lake called Llyn ddu, and Leland gives the following account of it: “Towe risith a iiii Miles by South from Llintyne in a Morisch ground, and hath no Llin at his Hedd, and by Estimation rennith a xxii miles or he cum to Lianamdenery. He first rennith sumwhat by south, and then a greate way by west, and at the last turneth againe toward south.” About two miles from its source the Towy receives another river which rises in Llyn ddu, of which lake Leland erroneously says, “It is iii miles by South from Strateflur toward Buelth Lordshippe.” It is situated “even under the Botom of the Hilie Side, very deape, and full of Trouttes and Elys.” This river, after leaving Llyn ddu, runs towards the north, and then turning towards the south-east, about two miles from its source receives two small brooks, one from the south, and the other rising in Llyn Gorast, to the north. Leland calls this lake “Llinygorres,” and says, it is “not ii miles from Llinduy-Gorsse in Walsche, a myre in Englisch. It hath Trouttes and Elys.” About a mile beyond, this river falls into the Towy. Not far from Llyn ddu is Llyn Creg nant, from which there is certainly no apparent issue, though probably from the same spring the river Croes may take its rise, which was described in a former page. The pool is about a mile in circumference, and is thus described by Leland: “Lliny cregnant a bigge poole veri ful of Trouttes and Elys. It is from Strateflur a iii. by west toward Llanan devery.”

Rather more than a mile beyond its last increase, the Towy receives a small rivulet from the north, a little more than two miles in extent; and a mile beyond, another from the west. The Towy, with little variation, has now commenced its course due south. Not quite a mile further, another brook from the west, which receives another into itself, falls into the Towy. Another brook from the northwest, about three miles in extent, and receiving also itself a small supply, falls into the Towy not quite two miles beyond the last. This is called Nant y Stalwyn. About a mile and a half further on the Towy receives a little stream in the same direction as the last. About two miles beyond, another answering precisely the same description falls into it, and not quite three miles further it receives the Camddwr. This, however, must not be confounded with a river of the same name in the northern part of the county, and which falls into the Rheidol; as it is a distinct river from that, taking its rise about a mile to the south-east of Llyn Creg nant. It receives eleven small brooks into it, and flows in a direction towards the south-east, over an extent of upwards of nine miles. About three-quarters of a mile beyond, another small brook, in the direction of Camddwr river, falls into the Towy; and just beyond that, is one coming from the opposite direction called Trawsnant, or Crossbrook. Three-quarters of a mile further, another from the north-west falls into it; and nearly two miles beyond this it receives the Dothie river, when, bidding adieu to the confines of Cardiganshire, which for several miles it has marked out, it shapes its course to become the pride of the County of Caermarthen.

The Dothie rises in a lake called Llyn Berwyn, not far from the source of the river of that name, mentioned before. Curving round a mountain below, not quite two miles from its source, it receives a brook from the north-west, about a mile in extent. It is replenished by seven more streams, and then receives the river Pyscottwr, about two miles before it pours its waters into the Towy. Its extent is rather more than ten miles, and on its eastern bank is an old fort called Dinas. Where the Pyscottwr mingles its waters with those of this river, the mountains are tremendous, rising almost perpendicularly from the banks on each side.

The Pyscottwr rises in a vale to the west of the mountains that confine the Dothie. About a mile afterwards it is increased from the west, and a quarter of a mile still further it receives a supply from the north. A mile and a quarter beyond this it receives another increase from the same direction called Nant y cornel. Its last reinforcement is from the west, and called Pyscottwr fach. These rivers, no doubt, obtained their names from the number of fish with which they abound. All the rivers of this county have now been described, but there are two more small brooks to the westward of the Pyscottwr, one called Nant-y-radon, which receives another; and the other Nant-mawr, taking a course almost due south. These enter Caermarthenshire soon after their rise.

The Towy, Dothie, and Pyscottwr, are thus noticed by Drayton:

When Guendra with such grace deliberately doth glide,

As Towy doth entice; who setteth out prepar’d

At all points like a prince, attended with a guard;

Of which, as by her name, the near’st to her of kin

Is Toothie, tripping down from Berwyn’s rushy Lyn,

Through Rescob running out, with Pescoter to meetStolen from Fore-bears

Those rills that forest loves; and doth so kindly greet.

As to intreat their stay she gladly would prevail.

DIVISIONS OF THE COUNTY.

The county of Cardigan lies in the province of Canterbury, and in the diocese of St. David’s. It is an archdeaconry, and under the archdeacon are two rural deans, one presiding over the deanery of Sub Aeron, or Is Aeron; the other, over Ultra Aeron, or Uch Aeron. For a list of the archdeacons from the year 1208, see the Appendix. The parishes, &c., contained in these deaneries are as follow :

The following is a List of the Patrons, according to the Survey of St. David’s, published in the Year 1717; and also of the Religious Houses to which the Churches were anciently appropriated, with the Saints’ Days.

The most ancient Division of the present County of Cardigan was into three Cantrefs, or Hundreds. They are called Cantref Gwarthaef, or the upper hundred; Cantref Mabwyniawn, supposed by some to signify the Fairy Hundred⁵; Cantref Caer Wedros, or the hundred of Gwedros’s fortress.

The first of these was the most northern, and contained sub-divisions named Cwmwds, and were Cwmwd Genau’r Glyn, or the Vale’s mouth cwmwd; Cwmwd Perfedd, or the central cwmwd; Cwmwd Creuddyn, or the bloody cwmwd.

The next was the central cantref, and contained Cwmwd Mefenydd, or the mountainous cwmwd; Cwmwd Anhuiawg, or the unobscured cwmwd; Cwmwd Penarth, or the cwmwd near the head of the river Arth.

The southern cantref contained Cwmwd Winionydd; Cwmwd Iscoed, or below the wood.

The next division of this county was into four cantrefs called Cantref Penwedig, or the upper hundred; Cantref Canol, or the middle hundred; Cantref Y Castell, or Castle hundred; Cantref Syrwen, or fair share hundred.⁶

The first, which was the same as the Cantref Gwarthaf, contained the same cwmwds, namely, Cwmwd Genau’r glyn; Cwmwd Perfedd; Cwmwd Creuddyn.

The next contained Cwmwd Mefenydd; Cwmwd Anhuiawg; Cwmwd Penarth.

The third or south-east, contained Cwmwd Mabwynion; Cwmwd Caerwedros.

The fourth, or south-west, contained Cwmwd Weinionydd; Cwmwd Iscoed.

The county is scattered over with ancient entrenchments, the names of which only describe their local situation, but besides these were several castles, the name of which are as follow: Castell Penwedic; Castell Gwalter; Castell Aberystwyth; Castell Aberrheidol; Castell Aberpeithyll; Castell Llanrhystid; Castell Cadwgan; Castell Ystradmeirig; Castell Fleming; Castell Dinerth; Castell Mabwynion; Castell Cilcennin; Castell Trevilan; Castell Gwythen; Castell Nadolig; Castell Moeddyn; Castell Hywel, formerly Castell Humphreys; Castell Aberteivi; Castell Llanbedr, or Stephen; Castell Abereinon; Castell Edwin; Castell Pilrhyn; Castell Moeddyn; Castell Pistog.

This county returns two members to Parliament, one a knight of the shire to represent the county, and the other a burgess for the borough of Cardigan. It is now divided into five hundreds, which contain (including Newcastle Emlyn, partly situated in the county, and partly in Caermarthenshire) five market towns. These are Cardigan, Newcastle Emlyn, Lampeter, Tregarron, and Aberystwyth. There was formerly another hundred called Cantref Gwaelod, or Low land hundred, now entirely covered with water. The authority we have for this is partly traditionary, and partly historical. The boundary of this on the north-west was, we are told, Sam Badrig, or St. Patrick’s causeway, which runs out to sea in a serpentine manner, about two and twenty miles from the coast of Merionethshire, about halfway between Harlech and Barmouth. The coast included between this causeway and Cardigan, bounded it on the north, east, and south sides, and a supposed line from Cardigan to the extremity of Sam Badrig formed its western limit. It seems to have been an extensive rich country, containing several towns, and its princpial city is supposed to have been at Caer Wyddno, or Gwyddno’s City. This Gwyddno was the last of its princes, and flourished from about the year 460 to 520. Hewas surnamed Garanhir, or longshanks; and was a poet. The Llyvr du o Gaervyrddin, or Black Book of Caermarthen, written as early at least as the beginning of the ninth century, contains three specimens of the powers of his muse, which we shall present to the reader. “A moral ode: A Poem on the Inundation of Cantref y Gwaelod;” and “A Contention between Gwyddno and Gwyn ab Nudd.”

I.

GWYDDNEU AI CANT.

Kyd karui vi Morva, hassaa vi mor pur

Doe waneg karrec kamhur

Glew diwael hygar hael hwyskur

Yscirwaen beirt bid bydic clydur

Goruc klod Heilin benffic awirdwl

Hyd braud parahawd y ertivul

Kyd karui vi Morfa casaa vi don

Digoneis don dreis oer keleis y son

Ef kwyniw yn i wiw herwyt hon

Gwaith heiniw golchiw ar winuiuron

Kyd illeinw keudaud nis beirw kalon

Ac ni Uuru cyheic kymod y ron

Y fun edivar oi negessau

Ban vryssyus pebrur pell y agheu

Glew diwal kywerthyd yd vain in deu

Menic it arwet duwir delenneu

Fechit dirisclan oth divot

Mi nith erwill fuched diot

Om parth gwerthais y march irot

Dial kyheic amoed blis

Am y kyvreu y melis

Oth korr dy sorr di ymi bu ewnis.

TRANSLATION.

THE SORROW OF GWYDDNO⁷

Though I love the beach, I will hate the sea,

Whose wave o’erwhelms the stepping-stone

Of the brave, the mighty, the generous champion!

The alighting stone of bards be it a ready help in need.

The fame of the feast-server caused a miserable fate,

Till the day of doom its effect will remain.

Though I love the beach, I will hate the wave.

The wave has woefully tyrannized to wound my breast,

I shall complain while I live on account of this:

It is a cheering work to cleanse with wine my breast;

Tho’ the stomach may be full, the heart is not warmed,

And festivity will yield no consolation for this.

He has repented him of his errands:

The chatterer has hastened far for death;

Bold and cruel the exchange that befel us two,

To tell how God has turned the leaves.

Mechyd, they will uncover from thy arrival;

I shall not receive thee with much uncovering,

On my part I have sold my steed on thy account.

The reward of festivity to gratify the taste,

For the sweet dainties,

From thy circle thy anger hath been to me a foe.⁸

II.

PAN DDAETH Y MOR TROS GANTREF Y GWAELAWD.

Seithenin saw di allan ag edrych

Uirde vararres mor maes Gwitneu rhytres

Boed emendiceit y morwin

A hellyngaut gwydi e wyn⁹

Ffynnaun Wenestyr mor diffeith

Boed emendigeit y vachdeith

Ai golligaut guydi gweith

Ffynnaun Wenestyr mor diffeith

Diaspad wererit y ar van kaer

Hyd ar Duw i dodir

Gnawd gwedi traha trane hir

Diaspad mererit y ar van kaer

Hetiu hyt ar Duw y dadoluch

Gnawd gwedi traha attregwch

Diaspad mererit am gorchwyl heno¹⁰

Ac nim haut gorluyt¹¹

Gnawd gwedi traha tramcwyt

Diaspad mererit y ar gwineu

Kadir Kedaul Duw ac goreu

Gnawd gwedi gormod eisseu

Diaspad mererit am kympell

Heno wrth vy estavell

Gnawd gwedi traha trave pell

Bet seithenin synwyr van

Rwng kaer Kenedir a glan

Mor, maurhydic a kinran.

TRANSLATION¹²

ON THE INUNDATION OF CANTREV GWAELOD.

Come forth, Seithenin !¹³ and behold

Waste is the land of heroes bold :

Lo! bursting o’er his wonted shores,

On Gwyddno’s plains wild ocean roars.

Accursed Morfin ever be,

Who, after wine, let in the sea!

Let deep Gwenestr’s raging flood

O’erwhelm the plains where Gwyddno stood.

Accurs’d Machtaith, whose fatal spleen

When hush’d the battle’s clanging din,

Loos’d deep Gwenestr’s gloomy wave

O’er Gwyddno’s fertile plains to rave.

Hark! from the brow of hoary Caer,

Mererid’s wailings fill the air !

Or soon, or late, Fate’s vengeful blow

Still lays the proud oppressor low.

From Caer’s high brow, smit by despair,

Mererid lifts his voice in prayer :

Check’d is oppression’s towering pride

That whilom heaven itself defied.

From Gwinau comes Mererid’s moan,

The chair of Cedawl¹⁴ is o’erthrown :

Where bloated excess rul’d the scene

Gaunt, griping penury is seen.

Mererid’s groans oppress my soul;

Mirth, beauty, or the sparkling bowl,

Can to me nought of joy bestow.

God lays the proud oppressor low.

Dismal this night Mererid’s cry

Compels me from my couch to fly.

Check’d is oppression’s haughty stride

Destruction overwhelms his pride.

III.

YMRYSON GWYDDNEU A GWYN AB NUDD.

Kanis koegawe sy mor eurawc

A hid yn ymyl llys Gwallawc

Minneu byddaf goludawc

Boed emendigeit ir gwydd

A dynnwys y lygad yn y wydd

Gwallawc ap Lleinawc Arglwydd

Boet emendigeit ir gwydd du

A dynnwys i lygad oed ddu

Gwallawc ap Lleinawc penn llu.

Boet emendigeit ir gwydd gwenn

A dynnwys i lygad oi benn

Gwallawc ap Lleiniawc unben

Boet emendigeit ir gwydd glas

A dynnwys y lygad yngwas

Gwallawc ap Lleinawc urddas

Tarw trin an vyddin blawdd

Arbennic llu llid anhawdd

Dinam eiroes am oes nawdd

Ygan gwr gwrdd i kynnyad

Arbennic llu llid Owydd

Ath wrdd nawdd kanys erchydd

Kanys nawdd ym a roddyt

Mor verth y thogyvethyd

Gwawr lu py du pan ddoyd

Bann ddeuaf ogat a chymynad

Mawr ag aefawr in anghad

Briwint pennavr peleidrad

Ath gyvarchaf huysawn

Gwr ai yscwid yn anghen

Nebir gwr pan yw dyechen

Kamgrwn vy march kat trabludd

Hud im gelwir i Gwin Mab Nudd

Gordderch kreurddillad merch Lludd

Kanys ti Gwin gwr kywir

Rhagot ni ry ymgelir

Minnew Gwiddnau Garanhir

Nim gad i gan gyvlafaredd

A thi wrth i frywn yd wedd

Diwris im trwm Tawy annedd

Niu Tawve i nessaf a lafaraf

Wrthyt namvin Tawve i eithaf

Erir mor terurin treiaf

Ysaithreid fy modrwy eur gywrwy

Kanu y gan vy Afarwy

Gweles aer rac Kaer Fandwy

Rhag Mandwy llu a weleis

Aessawr briwhed torrhid eis

Mygedawl kein a ddygei dreis

Gwin ap Nudd budd bytinawr

Cynt i syrthiei cadvedd rhag Carneddawr

Dy vreich no brwyn briw i lawr

Ystec fy ki as ystrwn

Ag ys ev oren or hwn

Dormachedd hwnnw a vu y Maelgwn

Dormarth drwynrhydd ba syllydd

Arnaw can yssamgyffredydd

Dy grwidir ar Wiber wynydd

My wn yn lie y lias Gwenddoleu

Mab Ceidiaw Colowyn kerdeu

Ban ryerchint brein ar kreu

Mi a wna yn y lie y lias Bran

Mab y werydd glod lydan

Ban ryerhint Brein garthan

Mi a wnn lle y llas Uacheu

Mab Arthur uthr yngherteu

Ban ryerhint brein ar kreu

Mi a wn lle i llas Meiric

Mab Karreian clod etmic

Ban ryreeint brein ar kic

Mi a wn lie llas Gwallawc

Mab Goholeth teithiawr

Addwod Lloegyr mab Lleynawc

Mi a wn lle i llas milwyr Prydein

Or dwyrein ir gogledd

My wi wiw vinten y bedd

Mi a vun lle llas milwyr Prydein

Or dwyrein ir dehen

Mi wi wiw vinten y hagheu.

TRANSLATION.

THE CONFERENCE BETWEEN GWYDDO AND GWYN AB NUDD.

Since it is a vain person that is thus adorned with gold,

Near the court of Gwalloc,

I also will appear as one possessing riches.

Be accursed the thicket

That pulled out his eye in his presence,

Gwalloc son of Llenoc the sovereign.

Be there a curse to the black wood

That pulled out his eye that was black.

Gwalloc son of Llenoc, leader of a host.

Be there a curse to the white wood

That pulled his eye out of his head.

Gwalloc son of Lienor the prince.

Be there a curse to the green wood

That pulled out the eye of my youth,

Gwalloc son of Llenoc the honourable.¹⁵

Fierce Bull of war! when host with host

Is in the battle’s tumult lost!

Supreme of those who mighty are!

Whose look of ire no mortal dare !

Yet foremost of the sons of earth

That light the hospitable hearth;

Soul of Hospitality!

Is there refuge here for me?

Persuasive tongue of him whose art

Can rule with words the human heart!

Chief of the brave! who can assuage,

And lull at will, thy bosom’s rage :

Say if, in this distracted hour,

For me is refuge in thy power?

Here a suitor I await,

Speak and let me know my fate.

This boon bestow, and for thy name

I’ll weave a song of deathless fame ;

That whereso, Chief, thou shalt appear,

The shout of praise will glad thy ear :

And I, fresh from the battle’s field,

Ere from my arm is dropp’d my shield,

Will join, with feeble voice, the song

That would thy valiant deeds prolong.

I greet thee, gallant youth! and yield.

Warrior, whose protecting shield

Guards the weak in troubled hour

From murder’s blow, from rapine’s power,

Thy name, thy origin declare.

Lover of Creirddillad fair Daughter of Lludd of hoary brow,

Gwyn, son of Nudd, am I; and thou

Hast oft beheld my round-hoof’d steed

Bear me on with frantic speed

Through the battle’s tide of blood.—

Gwyn, I know thee, brave and good;

Gwyddno Garanhir am I;

Vainly would I shun thine eye.

Though gloomy sadness shades thy brow,

In silence do not leave me now :

For cold and silent is my home,

And press’d with sorrow am I come!—

Gwyn, son of Nudd, of hosts the pride,

To thee what boon can be denied?

Eagle of the rocky shore,

For thee my lips I’ll ope once more ;

For thee, by whose resistless blow,

A thousand warriors lie low,

Strew’d like broken rushes round,

Prostrate gnaw the gore-stain’d ground.

By my carved ring with gold

Studded round, I will unfold

To thee the story of my woe,

The source whence all my sorrows flow.

I saw, where hoar Caer Mandwy shrouds

His head among the mantling clouds,

Slaughter stain with blood the snow,

And ravage all the plains below.

Gwyn,¹⁶ son of Nudd, the blessing of armies,

From the toil of thy arm quicker would hosts

Fall down than the broken rushes.

Ystec, my dog, that is well-trained,

And he is the best of dogs ;

Dormarthedd, that belong’d to Maclgwyn.

Dormarthedd with brown nose; if thou didst look

Upon it, then thou wouldest suppose

That he ranged with a serpent’s motion.

The place where brave Gwenddolau¹⁷ fell,

Son of Ceidiol, I can tell :

When loud the boding ravens scream’d,

Then his vital current stream’d :

Then of mighty bards, the pride,

Ceidio’s son Gwenddolau died.

Gweridd’s son of mighty fame,

Bran, a host against him came :

When the clamouring raven rose

The hero sunk to dread repose;

These eyes beheld the fatal place,

Where fell the pride of Gwerydd’s race.

I know the place were Llachau fell;

Who his valiant deeds can tell?

Arthur’s son, renown’d in song,

Oft’ he burst the conflict’s throng,

He heard the raven’s boding cry,

And met unaw’d his destiny.

Where Meiric died, Carcian’s son,

Of matchless fame, to me is known ;

Dark was the raven’s wing that spread,

When Meiric mingled with the dead.

Where Gwalloc fell I know the place ;

Brave issue of a noble race!

Lloegr’s ruin, Llenoc’s son,

Bloody, bloody set thy sun.

Where Britain’s warriors lie low,

From east to north, the spots I know.

Low in the silent grave they sleep,

And I am left to live and weep.

Where Britain’s warriors lie low,

From east to south, the spots I know ;

Mingling with their native earth ;

But I am left to mourn their death.

This inundation must have happened about the year 520, which was in King Arthur’s time. Elphin was the son of this Gwyddno, and the patron of the great poet Taliesin. Indeed it was to him that Taliesin owed his existence and success; and when afterwards Elphin fell in disgrace with Maelgwyn Gwynedd, under whose protection he had placed himself after the loss of his patrimonial territory, Taliesin being then the poet, prophet, and counsellor of Maelgwyn, procured Elphin’s release out of prison. Elphin had been imprisoned in the castle of Deganwy by this Maelgwyn, who was his uncle, and the son of Caswallon Llawhir, or long-hand; who built the fortress of Caer-Gybi, now Holyhead. Maelgwyn erected the collegiate church of Holyhead, and the priory of Penmon. We have the invocation for Elphin’s release still preserved in a song, entitled, “Kame Y Medd,” or an address to mead, a celebrated Welsh beverage, extracted from a distillation of honey, &c.

Taliesin wrote another also on the same subject, but addressed “I’r Gwynt,” (“to the wind.”) It is a curious circumstance that Taliesin was found exposed in a wear belonging to Gwyddno, the profit of which he had granted to his son, Prince Elphin. Being an extravagant youth, and not finding the usual success, Elphin grew melancholy; and his fishermen attributed his misfortune to his riotous irregular life. When the prodigal Elphin was thus bewailing his misfortunes, the fishermen espied a coracle with a child in it, wrapped up in a leathern bag. They brought him to the young prince, who ordered care to be taken of him, and when he grew up gave him the best education, from which he became the most celebrated bard of his time. The accomplished Taliesin was introduced by Elphin to his father Gwyddno’s court, where he delivered him a poem giving an account of himself, intituled, “Hanes Taliesin,” or “Taliesin's History,” which, roughly translated, is as follows:

TRANSLATION.—THE HISTORY OF TALIESIN.

The primary domestic bard Am I to Elphin,

And my original country

Is the region of Cherubims.¹⁸

Joannes the divine Called me Merddin,

At length every king Will call me Taliesin.

I was full nine months

In the womb of mother Cyridwen;¹⁹

I was little Gwion²⁰ heretofore,

Taliesin am I now.

I was with my Lord In the superior state

When Lucifer did fall To the infernal deep.

I have borne a banner Before Alexander :

I know the names of the stars From the north to Auster.

I have been in the circle of Gwdion

Tetragrammaton;²¹

I conducted Heon²²

To the depth of Ebron vale.

I was in Canaan

When Absalom was slain,

I was in the Court of Don²³

Before Gwdion was born,

I was an attendant On Eli and Enoc ;

I was on the cross-devoting sentence

Of the son of the merciful God.

I have been chief keeper

Of the work of Nimrod’s tower ;

I have been three revolutions

In the circle of Arianrod.²⁴

I was in the Ark

With Noah and Alpha ;

I beheld the destruction

Of Sodoma and Gomorra.

I was in Africa

Before Rome was built,

I am come here

To the remnants of Troia²⁵

I was with my Lord

In the manger of the she-ass;

I strengthened Moses

Through the Jordan water.

I have been in the firmament

With Mary Magdalen ;

I have been gifted with genius

From the cauldron of Cyridwen.

I have been bard of the harp,

To Teon²⁶ of Lochlyn;²⁷

I have endured hunger

For the Son of the Virgin.

I have been in the White Hill²⁸

In the court of Cynvelyn

In stocks and fetters,

For a year and a day.

I have had my abode

In the kingdom of the Trinity ;

It is not known what is my body,

Whether flesh or fish.²⁹

I have been an instructor

To the whole universe;

I shall remain till the day of doom

On the face of the earth.

I have been in an agitated seat

Above the circle of Sidin,³⁰

And that continues revolving

Between three elements :

Is it not a wonder to the world,

That it reflects not a splendor?

Sir John Price mentions this poem of Taliesin’s in his “Historise Britannicae defensis,” in these words: “Taliesinus quidem in odula, quam de suis erroribus composuit, sic inscripta Britannice (Hanes Taliesin) videlicet errores Taliesini, ait se tandem divertisse ad reliquias Trojae;

Mi a ddaethum yma at Weddillion Troia, neque dubitandum est hoc fuisse opus Taliesini nam prseter in numeros codices vetustissimos, qui inscriptionem hujusmodi attestentur, nullo reclamante, nullus est recentionim qui vel phrasin illius tam antiquam, carminisve majestatem assequi potuit. Et ideo summus ille vates inter Britannos censetur et nominatur.” At the same time that Taliesin delivered this poem to Gwyddno, he rehearsed another which he had composed for his patron and benefactor Elphin, to console him upon his past misfortunes, and to exhort him to put his trust in Divine Providence.

This is a moral piece, and very artfully addressed by the bard, who introduces himself in the person and character of an exposed infant, translated as follows:

I. TRANSLATION.—ELPHIN’S CONSOLATION.

Fair Elphin, cease to weep. Let no man be discontented with his fortune; to despair avails nothing. It is not that which a man sees that supports him: Cynllo’s prayers will not be ineffectual.

God will never break his promise. There never was in Gwyddno’s wear such good luck as to-night.

Fair Elphin, wipe the tears from thy face! Pensive melancholy will never profit thee; though thou thinkest thou hast no gain; certainly too much sorrow will do thee no good; doubt not of the great Creator’s wonders: though I am but little, yet I am endowed with great gifts. From the seas and mountains, and from the bottom of rivers, God sends wealth to the good, and happy man.

Elphin, with lovely qualities, thy behaviour is unmanly. Thou oughtest not to be over pensive. To trust in God is better than to forebode evil. Though I am but small, and slender, on the beach of the foaming main, I shall do thee more good in the day of distress than three hundred salmons.

Elphin, with the noble qualities, murmur not at thy misfortune. Though I am but weak on my leathern couch, there dwelleth a gift on my tongue. While I continue to be thy protection, thou needest not fear any disaster. If thou desirest the assistance of the ever blessed Trinity, nothing can do thee hurt.

There is another copy of “Dyhuddiant Elphin” in the Welsh Archaiology, in a different style of versification, of which the following is a translation :

II. —TRANSLATION: ELPHIN’S CONSOLATION.

Congenial is impulse With praise to amuse ;

And to treasure the recital Of what the world has been ;

Who knows the song In the presence of Jesu,

Before the three hosts When judgment shall be given; What minstrel shall sing When Cynan shall be called To the summoned chair Before Cadwalader?

Or when mischievous ruin Falls on Cynan son of Bran?

If you are primary bards Excelling in arts,

Relate the obscure things Of the mundane tribes.

There is an obnoxious beast From the strong hold of Satanas, That has taken possession Between the deep and the shallow. As wide are his jaws As the mountains of the Alps. Death can not it subdue,

Nor hand, nor blades ;

There are nine hundred cart loads In the hair of two paws ;

One eye is in its head Green like the glossy ice flake; Three springs are there In the nape of his neck ;

The sea sprays thereon Through it do swim ;

That give fluidity and fulness To Dyvrdonwy the water-gifted.

I will name the three springs From the centre of ocean :

One prospers the brine When it whirls on high To restore the flood Over seas disappearing;

The second, void of harm,

Upon us doth fall,

When the ram is out Through the teeming sky ;

The third doth come

Through the veins of the mountains

Of flinty aspect,

By the work of the King of Kings. You are mere poetasters,

In extreme of cares ;

You know not how to satyrize The British kingdom;

I also am Taliesin,

Chief of the bards of the west,

Who will liberate Elfin From his fettered state.

The weapon that heaps,

With unseemly mode,

Tumultuous is its quality Against flatterers,

Against retainers.

When the alder spread

Round crooked horns around Camted,

To praise the lord of Aled of open boundary,

I saw the busy attendance,

With the din of utensils.

Equally seem fame and power,

The sharp and the sweet,

On the chief of Morva,

And Evionydd And Gwyneidydd,

Of splendid profusion

A seated group, on three-legg’d stools,

According to his maxim,

Like leaves of roses.

Loud clanging shields

Hung round the armoury

Were in great number,

A wolf taking a mountain range

Was the freebooter

Is the pride of his strength.

With potent spears,

Of the glossy hue of the snake

From the adder’s nest.

As thou art the retainer of tribes

Loving the beauteous damsels ;

Thou has loved the spoil.

I should love thee to avenge,

Thou bulwark of gallantry !

Thou prominent bull!

I shall lament thy death,

As thou didst love the peaceless state.

The wave of the sea is his presence in battle,

Round the camp, when the raven stands aloof.

For whom the accordant voice of the minstrels

Of the world shall break forth.

He refused from the people of the country,

From a partiality to the infantry,

Four animals that would range the world;

He whose shield darted lightning, with his

Blade in the scalps of three around him.

I have expected, out of blue horns,

The intoxicating mead.

From the hand of Tudvolch the wave of wine

Will run over, of the much quaffed mead,

When they come, with gold covering their rims.

Gore, in tide loud and ample,

For preserving natural right,

Has been made to flow :

Cynan! the standard, will be dignified from Mona,

With the privilege of the lot;

Tudvolch, and Cyvolch, who open’d a breach

In the battlements of forts.

In Mynyddoc’s train their carousals failed them.

A year of mourning for the warriors of

Cattraeth prays upon me ;

With their blades of steel, their mead, their ale,

Their fetters, the weapon that heaps with Unseemly mode, the tumult, the unconsidered.

It seems very probable that Sarn Badrig was one of the boundaries of Cantref Gwaelod; for all that vast ridge becomes dry at low water, and is very deep on the north side, but shelving on the other. Besides this, there are still to be seen at low water four other causeways or roads in this Cantref. They are Sarn y Bwch, or the Goat's causeway, which extends about a mile and a half into the sea, just by Aberdysyni, in Merionethshire. Sarn Cynfelyn, or St. Cynfelyn’s causeway, to whom there is a church in Cardiganshire dedicated. This extends seven miles into the sea from a place called Gwallawg, or Gwallog, in Cardiganshire, which seems to imply the inundation of this territory, as it signifies “defective.” At the end of this causeway is Caer Wyddno, very rocky ground, and supposed to have been the royal residence. The next is Sarn Ddewi, or St. David’s causeway, extending about a quarter of a mile into the sea, and being exactly in the same line with the church of Llan-Dewi Aberarth, or St. David’s, at the mouth of the river Arth. The last is Sam Cadwgan, or Cadogan’s road, about half a mile or more from Sarn Ddewi, and reaching rather more than a mile and a quarter into the sea. Just where this juts out from the shore is an old fort called Castell Cadwgan. Besides these roads there is a great deal of ground that becomes dry at low water. About three miles to the west of Aberaeon, in this county, and about half a mile from the shore, is a circular piece of foul ground called Eglwys yr rhiw, or the church on the hill side.

About three-quarters of a mile from this is a quantity of rocky ground, on each side the river, that runs by Llanina Church. That on the north eastern side is called Gweirglodd, or meadow. That on the other Carreg Ina, or Ina’s Rock.

At the end of Sam Badrig before mentioned, are sixteen large stones, one of which is four yards in diameter. There are also roots of trees in their natural situation to be seen in the sea in this Cantref, and as the ocean still gains on the coast of Merionethshire, in that beautiful valley called Dyffryn Ardudwy, it is probable all that low ground will undergo the same fate in the process of time, by the almost constant westerly winds, which blow the sea upon the coast, and cover it with sands³¹ The antiquary, Mr. Lewis Morris, mentions his having seen a stone found in the sands about an hundred yards below high water mark, on the coast of Merionethshire, which was a part of this drowned country, with an inscription in Roman letters; and there is an adage, or proverb, in everybody’s mouth in this this part of Wales to this day, when any great tribulation happens: “Ochenaid Gwyddno Garanhir, pan droes y don dros ei dir,” which is literally, “The sigh of Gwyddno Garanhir, when the wave turned over his land.”

Among the thirteen rarities of kingly regalia in the island of Britain, the third is mentioned as belonging to Gwyddno Garanhir.

Mwys (neu Bwlan) Gwyddno Garanhir; bwyd i ungwr a roid ynddi, a bwyd i gannwr a gaid ynddi pen egorid.

The budget basket (or weel) of Gwyddno, sumamed longshanks; if provision for a single person were put into it to keep, a sufficiency of victuals for a hundred persons would be found in it when opened.

This weel was probably some kind of fishing basket, which having sufficient bait for one person, might be the means of catching as many fish as would satisfy a hundred.

According to the Triads the haven of king Gwyddno, in North Wales, was one of the three principal harbours in Britain; and if it was formed of that portion of the sea included between Sam Badrig and the coast of Merionethshire, it is by no means wonderful that it should have obtained this distinguished appellation. The arms of Gwyddno, as appears by an old manuscript written about the latter part of the sixteenth century, were, gules a griffin displayed vert, and those of his son Elphin, or a griffin segrant vert, whose descendants are men of Llanegwad, Carmarthenshire.

The following Triad commemorates the inundation of Cantref Gwaelod:—

“Tri Charnfeddwon ynys Prydain: Ceraint, feddw brenin Essyllwg, a losges yn ei feddwdol yr holl yd ym mhell ac yn agos hyd glawr gwlad, ac o hynny dyfod newyn bara; Ail Gwrtheyrn Gwrthenau, a roddes ymys Daned yn ei ddiawd i Hors, am gael ymodinebu a Rhonwen ei ferch ef; a rhoddi hawl hefyd a wnaeth efe i’r mab a enid o hynny ar Goron Loegr; ac yn un a hynny Brad a Chynllwyn yn erbyn Cenedl y Cymru; Trydydd, Seithinyn feddw ab Seithyn Saide, brenin Dyfed, a ollyngwys yn ci ddiawd y mor dros Gantre’r Gwaelod, oni chollwyd o dai a daear y maint ag oedd yna, lle cyn hynny y caid un dinasdref ar bymtheg yn oreuon ar holl drefydd a dinasoedd Cymru, a gadu yn amgen Caerllion ar Wysg; a chofoeth Gwydnaw Garanhir brenhin Ceredigiawn ydoedd Cantre’r Gwaelawd; ac yn amser Emrys Wledig y bu hynny; a’r Gwyr a ddianghasant y rag y bawdd hynny a diriasant yn Ardudwy, a Gwlad Arfon, a mynyddedd yr Eryri a lleoedd eraill nad oeddent gyfannedd cyn no hynny.” (The three abandoned drunkards of the Isle of Britain were, first, drunken Geraint, king of Siluria, who in the paroxysm of a fit of intoxication set fire to the standing corn; the conflagration in consequence of which rash act spread so violently, that all the cornof the country, to an immense distance, was totally consumed, and a destructive famine ensued. The second was Vortigern, surnamed the wry-mouthed, who when intoxicated gave Horsa , the Saxon chief, the Isle of Thanet, for permission to have an illicit connexion with his daughter Rowena; and further promised, that her son, the fruit of that amour, should succeed to the crown of England; which proved productive of treachery, and a sanguinary massacre of a prodigious number of the chieftains of the Cambrian race. The third was drunken Seithinvn, the son of Seithyn Saidi, king of Dimetia; who when in a state of intoxication suffered the sea (by neglecting to attend the sluices) to overflow the lowland hundred (or Cantrei’r gwaelod) where lands and habitations the most beautiful in all Wales, excepting only Caerleon on Usk, to the number of sixteen cities and towns, were in a short period inundated and ruined. The lowland hundred was the property of Gwyddno, surnamed longshanks, king of Cseredigiawn (or Cardiganshire). This event happened in the reign of Emrys Wledig (or the illustrious). The inhabitants who escaped from that inundation landed in Ardudwy, a part of Caernarvonshire, and ascended the mountains of Snowden, which had never been inhabited before that period.

Besides so much authentic information relative to Cantref y Gwaelod, the Rev. Mr. Griffiths, of Llwyndyris in this county, has an old poem, compiled most probably from tradition, with a little colouring from the author, whose name is unknown. The following is a translation of it A short History of the Lowland Hundred inundated by the Sea.

The unrivalled Hundred, the fertile plain, the pleasant populous district, with its gay celebrated city, sunk to the fathomless caverns of the deep. Mansua, matchless for its strength, its extent, and its antiquity, was the principal city in this once populous region. The crystal river that meandered through the plain saw Mansua's magnificent structures shadowing its banks, and extending from Harlech on the one hand to Crickbeth on the other. What floating mirror ever reflected more beauteous mansions? Were not the two extensive towns on the confines of Patrick’s miraculous causeway, like spacious kingdoms, for the number of their buildings and the multitude of their inhabitants? And was the third town that seemed to rise from the main at Rugs Rocks, at the junction of the four streams inferior to them in rank, or the fascination of its streams? Mansua, thy commerce exceeded the traffic of any two of these once celebrated and frequented market towns? How is the remote antiquity of thy history lost in oblivion? Was it the weight of thy merchandise, and thy riches, that sunk thee so precipitately in the deep? The verdant vale adorned by the elegant structures of Caeriolyn enchants the traveller no more! And gloomy horror has succeeded to the once pleasing gaieties of Pen-Damon! And next Caeryolin in situation, and the next it in the dreadfulness of its fall, stood the once beauteous town of Almuda, but its beauty could not calm the rage of destruction! Its structures dissolved before the frowns of desolation, like temporary fabrics of ice at the approach of the scorching verdure-destroying season. But the names of these populous towns, and of the mayor-governed town of Merlin, are scarce recorded in history. These once celebrated marts are now no more remembered; the gloomy lasting waters of oblivion have for ever covered them; and the throngs that once crowded their fairs! In the well-cultivated plain, once aspired to heaven the lofty towers of ten celebrated churches, while seven more boasted the beauty of their sacred structures, at no remote distance; and rivalled them in their costly ornaments, and their pomp of public worship. Was it the purity of the devout worshippers’ piety that preserved eight sacred fabrics from the rage of the waves? Eight sacred, heaven-preserved, structures still standing on the utmost extremity of the land, on the perilous borders of the deep. Must the veracity of the divine songs of antiquity be disputed? Or shall the eye of fancy be still directed to the spot where once stood four times seven busy mills, or her ears be still stunned with the sound of their incessant motion, while the hand of industry spared no pains to repair them, nor the streams of abundance to supply them? Nor were the hundred flax mills of the plains less busy, where the recollective muse remembers the rural spinster, and the city housewife with emulous industry crowding for useful stores to supply the demands of art and ingenuity. For the chaste children of Health, Industry, and Ingenuity, on these peaceful plains slaked their thirst in three clear and ex-haustless fountains, and seldom tasted of the bitter waters of repentance. What will not the hand of Ingenuity be able to effectuate? From the bosom of the sloping hills, the useful ore of lead, and four different species of excellent sulphur were extracted in abundance. The world had now experienced many extraordinary vicissitudes, and its prosperous events had been succeeded by many an adverse fortune, when in that disastrous year the three thousand, five hundredth, and ninety-first from the creation, the fertile plains of the Lowland Hundred were covered with barren sands, and its fair causeways deformed by the incursions of the sea, whose swelling billows rose with irresistible strength, and baffled all human opposition. Gwrgan with the bushy beard, had found his way to the throne, and began his precarious reign over the plains, and the fickle hand of summer had strown his way with deceitful flowers; but the scowering winter that soon succeeded, dissipated them with its tempests, or covered them by its inundations. From this disastrous period, till the year three thousand seven hundred and eighteen, from the sera of the creation, the billows bursting over their bounds continued to encroach on the golden treasures of the plain; the Fates soon spun out the thread of the sinking kingdom’s destiny; and the days of Morgan were succeeded by the sable nights of desolation. Fifteen ill-omened monarchs lamented the falling powers of their line, and witnessed the fate-shaken honours of their province, falling like the yellow withered leaf of autumn, from Gwrgan to Morgan’s dismal day, which terminated in the endless night of desolation. In his luckless reign the boundless plain was converted to a shoreless sea, the intermediate space between Penryn and the rocks of Aberglaslyn, can give but a faint idea of its length; but some hasty notion may be formed of its spacious breadth, by casting the wandering eye over the main, from Clogwyn to Patrick’s sunken causeway, and its gloomy, judgment-struck habitation.—Anonymous.

1. Leland says, “Abow Strateflure cummithe owt of the mowntaines a wild watar. and goythe into Tyve. The watar, as I hard say, is called Glesserode. Glesserode sometyme so ragith that he cariethe stones from their Places. It risethe a 3 miles from Stratflure in the mountaynes in the Hyway toward Bueltle. Tyve or ever he cum to Stratflure take the but a lythe Botom, but fletithe, and ragith upon stones as Gresrode dothe.”
2. Leland says, “Tyve goithe from Stratflur to Tregarron, a Village a iiii miles of, on the hither side, and this commithe in a nother Brooke caullid Crosse that within a litle goithe into Tyve.”
3. Leland says,” Ayron risith in a Montaine by a Chapel caullid Blaine Peunial. Aber Ayron is a iii miles beneth Llanclere, and ther he goith into the Maine.”
4. The bridge over the Rheidol is called Pont Erwyd, and is one arch of stone, about thirty-six feet in diameter.
5. This interpretation is advanced by my friend Mr. William Owen, but I cannot help thinking with Sir John Price, that Mabwyniawn signified the sons of Wyneaon.
6. It is also written Hirwan. If that is most proper it would signify “Long-Stone hundred.”
7. The occasion seems to have been the inundation of Cantrev Gwaelod, which was his territory.
8. The obscurity of this poem, and the difficulty of the context render it impossible to do justice to the original in an English garb; the translation, however, is given literally, and with as much fidelity as possible.
9. Gwyddi Ewin, neu gwydi Cwin.
10. Gorvydd.
11. Gorewydd.
12. I am indebted for the English versification of this poem to my friend Anthony Todd Thomson, Esq., of Sloane Street, London.
13. Seithenin, to whom the poem is addressed, and whose fate it portends, seems to have been a prince of despicable disposition.
14. The chair of Cedawl might be Cors y Gedol, in Merionethshire. There was a saint called Cedol. This chair was probably an elevated tribunal seat where the lord of the district promulgated the law.
15. The first five verses, and the twenty-first, twenty-second, and twenty-third, are very obscure; and therefore the translation is given as literally as possible; for the versification of the remaining verses I am indebted to my friend Anthony Todd Thomson, Esq.
16. These three stanzas, owing to their obscurity, have not been versified.
17. Gwenddolau was a king of the Pictish Britons, who, in conjunction with Aeddan the traitor, carried on a civil war against Rhydderch the Generous, prince of the Ystrad-Clwydians; and which was terminated by this bloody battle at Arderydd, in the year 556. This is thus noticed in a triad. “The three faithful tribes of the Isle of Britain—The tribe of Cadwallon the son of Cadvan, who were seven years with him in Ireland; and during that space they demanded of him nothing of their due, lest they should be obliged to leave him.—The tribe of Gavran, son of Aeddan, who, when there was a total overthrow, went into the sea for their lord.—And the tribe of Gwenddolau, the son of Ceidio, at Arderydd, who sustained the war for a fortnight, and a month after the death of their lord. The number in the tribe of each of those persons was one and twenty hundred men.”
18. According to the Bardic theology, the soul is an intelligence lapsed from the region of light or knowledge, and in this world making its progress through the circle of inchoation to its original state of happiness.
19. A mythological being; that is, the smile of procreation; Venus.
20. A mythological person.
21. The Galaxy.
22. The divine spirit.
23. Llys Don, or the court of Don, is a name for the constellation of Cassiopoeia. Don was father of Gwdion. So the Saxons say the Woden came from the banks of the Don.
24. Literally, the circle of the silver wheel, the same as the constellation now called the Northern Crown.
25. Alluding to the supposed origin of the Britons, as taught them by the Romans.
26. Some copies have Lleon, others Theon (Thane)
27. Denmark.
28. A name given to the Tower of London.
29. Alluding to his being found at sea.
30. Literally the revolving circle. The name would well apply to the Zodiac; but it is not certain whether that is meant by Caer Sidin, and Caer Sidydd, or some particular constellation.
31. On the coast of Merionethshire, between Aberdyfi and Towyn, is a turbary regularly covered every tide by sand thrown over by the sea. When it is low water, the people scrape off the sand and dig turf from it.