Aberystwyth is situated on that part of the Welsh coast, nearly opposite the centre of Cardigan bay, at the confluence of the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidiol, which here discharge themselves into the Irish sea, or Saint George's channel, and from the first of which rivers the town derives its name; though the greater number of buildings on the side of the Rheidiol might authorize historians to name it from the river last mentioned.

It is said, the present town of Aberystwyth was anciently called Llanbadarn Gaerog; or, The Fortified Llanbadarn, and that the small village of Aberystwyth stood to the westward of the castle. This seems countenanced by the charter, in which it is several times called Llanbadarn, and not once Aberystwyth; when the name was changed, does not appear: but in the grant of the office of weights and measures, in the reign of Elizabeth, to M. Phillips, Esq. Aberystwyth, by the mayor and burgesses, it is every where termed Aberystwyth. Part of the walls are still standing, and may be seen between the house of the late Lady Caroline Price and the Custom-House, and again near the House of Correction. There were many gates; one of which stood in the street leading to Llanbadarn, called Great Dark-Gate; another in the street leading to the Baptist-chapel, called Little Dark-Gate; and another opposite the bridge. The walls formerly went from this last to the limekiln, near the castle, where it joined it on the other side of the gate by the mill stream to Great Dark-Gate, thence to Little Dark-Gate, and from thence to the site of the Customhouse and Lady Price's, and thence to the castle.

The buildings are constructed with great durability, and many among them extremely neat and commodious, though mostly devoid of such ornaments of architecture as embellish other more favoured spots in England and Wales; and which are better visited from being better known.

The streets are tolerably well laid out, and paved with the stones supplied in abundance from the shore;—and the turnpike roads leading to the town much better than the Welsh roads are generally described to be.

The surrounding country is more romantic, and exhibits far greater natural beauties than any other watering place in England or Wales, however well attended, could yet boast of.

The very extensive quarries surrounding the town in its present enlarged state, and from which builders are so amply supplied with slate and stone, furnish the means of erecting additional accommodations with greater facility:—and the industry of the inhabitants appears commensurate with the advantages and encouragement they receive from their yearly visitors, in return for the accommodations afforded them.

The progressive improvement of the place for the last twenty-five years, notwithstanding the pressure of warfare, the scarcity of specie, and the dearth of provisions, has been equalled by few towns, maritime or inland, in the united kingdom — surpassed by none.

The great concourse of summer visitors, which it is now capable of accommodating, and the increasing number of lodging-houses appropriate for the reception of such votaries of health, pleasure, or fashion, as have already selected this improving spot for their residence, or those who may hereafter be led to experience the salubrious effects of this delightful summer retreat, cannot fail to render it, in course of time, the resort of public estimation, while the acknowledged satisfaction of former visitants must more strongly recommend it to others.

The suburbs adjoining are, by nature, fertile, and exhibit all the variegated charms of hill and dale, wood, and water; whether viewed from the lofty mount or flowery slope, characterizing the delightful prospect, with views alternate ascending, pre-eminently beautiful, while its extensive mineral productions and health-inspiring springs, afford abundant means of observation and study for the meditation and employment of the mineralogist, the chemist, the physician, or philosopher.

The castle, of which there now remains little more than a confused heap of ruins, is still perhaps one of the most striking objects of attention, to a stranger of contemplative mind. It is stated to have been originally founded by Gilbert de Strongbow, son of Richard de Clare, in the reign of Henry I. A.D. 1107; and to have been also the residence of Cadwalader.

In the reign of Charles I., it was permitted by the then parliament, to be used for the purposes of a mint, by Mr. Bushel: and some of the pieces of money said to be coined therein, are said to have been in the possession of the late Col. Johnes, M.P. of Havod Ychdryd.

During the period here alluded to, Aberystwyth Castle was considered a place of much more estimation and resort than any other in Wales. During all the Welsh wars, it was deemed a fortress of the very first consequence: and even so late as the civil wars, by which this country was distracted, Aberystwyth Castle was regarded as a place of considerable strength.

The last and most destructive blow it experienced, and from the effect of which it has never recovered, was during the protectorship, when Oliver Cromwell, from a battery erected on Pendinas-hill, a very high mount immediately opposite the site of the castle, the vestiges of which battery are still perceptible, effectually bombarded this ancient pile, and in a few days succeeded in demolishing the works of many years: ever since which bombardment, it has continued in a state of decay and deterioration.

Mr Meyrick states this castle to have been situated on a rock, jutting out into the sea, and having a most romantic appearance. Its situation was well chosen before the invention of gunpowder made elevated places of more consequence to protect the town from invasion by sea.

The motives by which Oliver was urged to this act of destruction, are said to have been, to extirpate a banditti, who took up their residence within the castle, from a supposition, possibly, that their abode was more secure, their habitation being rendered by art and nature almost impregnable. These marauders, by continual depredations, having infested the town of Aberystwyth, then in its infancy, excited the vengeance of Oliver, who took this method of evincing his resentment, and displaying his authority, by levelling with the ground the more considerable part of this venerable fortress.

Since that time, it has remained in a state of decay, a picturesque heap of ruins; the gateway, and several towers in the walls, alone marking its former extent.

On the northwest is part of a tower about forty feet high, and an arched doorway is still preserved. A round tower is also existing. Another tower has been repaired, and converted into a kind of observatory.

Round the hill on which it stands, a variety of walks have been cut out and gravelled; near which, Mr. Uvedale Price, of Foxley Hall, Herefordshire, has erected a singularly handsome building, for his summer residence: it is in the Gothic style, and castellated form, consisting of three octagon towers, with a balcony towards the sea.

There is no situation south of Caernarvonshire, from which the Welsh Alps may be seen so advantageously as from this castle, and the surrounding cliffs. The lofty hills rising above the Cardigan rocks, are surmounted by Cader Idris, and its subject cliffs; these are over-topped by the giant mountains of Caernarvonshire; amongst which, in clear weather, the sharp peak of Snowdon itself, may be discerned pre-eminent above the surrounding crags. On the south of Aberystwyth, the coast of Pembroke being less curved, and not so lofty at the north limit of the bay, appears more uniform.

The remains of Aberystwyth Castle, and the ground on which they stand, are said to belong to the late much lamented Colonel Johnes, of Havod, whose death will be long and sincerely regretted, and his loss severely experienced by hundreds of his countrymen. In his lifetime, a lease of the castle-ground was granted to a Mr. Probert, of Shrewsbury, who has since permitted it to be converted into a public promenade. The town of Aberystwyth has therefore most unquestionably been improved by Mr. Price's summer-residence, in addition to many other buildings lately erected: and the inhabitants are not a little indebted to Mr. Probert, for a most delightful walk, pleasant at almost all times of the year, and particularly healthful to many constitutions, from the invigorating sea-breeze continually floating in the atmosphere around.

The beach north of the castle, and near which the several bathing-machines are in use, is composed of loose stone and pebble of various sizes and colours. Hence the water, from being less impregnated with sand, or disturbed by the influx of the tide, more particularly in rainy or tempestuous weather, is of course freed from impurities, and in mild weather, at the distance of several feet from the surface, the bottom is clearly discernible to the eyes of the bather, who can thus select any depth for immersion: while the sloping declivity, down which the bathing-machines may be safely conveyed at the desire of those who make use of them, is free from the tedious descent at other seaports of many hundred feet on a sandy shore, before the temporary inhabitants, who hire them for the purpose of receiving benefit from sea bathing, can possibly arrive at a sufficient depth of water. At the beach of Aberystwyth, during those periods when the tide is in, the longest distance requisite to roll the machine, exceeds not three yards, and even at low water the bathers may here always be accommodated, at the short distance of five or six yards from the edge of the shore.

The church of Aberystwyth in the year 1787, dedicated to St. Michael, was erected within the precincts of the castle by subscription, at the head of which appears the name of the Rev. Richard Lloyd, to the amount of 100l. as a legacy from the late Mrs. Jones. The church is a plain unadorned structure, containing in length from east to west, sixty feet; and in breadth, twenty-six. It is capable of accommodating from seven to eight hundred persons, when the pews are occupied by the owners or by strangers. The church is separated from the walks and ground about the castle by a stone wall, erected and heightened by the inhabitants. The morning service is delivered in the English language, in the afternoon the service is performed in Welsh; and during the summer months, when the town is more full of company, prayers are again read, and service performed in the English language by the vicar of Llanbadarn Vawr, or some other gentleman of the established church.

The gallery erected at the west end of the church, was built at the sole expense of Mrs. Margaret Pryse, in the year 1790, and cost 104l. 14s. It bears an inscription commemorative of Mrs. Pryse's donation.

The other places of worship in Aberystwyth are Meetinghouses, or Chapels for congregations of Baptists, Independents, Wesleyan, or Arminian Methodists, and Whitfieldian or Calvinistic Methodists; sometimes sarcastically denominated Jumpers. The latter are said to be more numerous than any sect in Wales, and frequently excite the curiosity of strangers to witness their performances. They justify the custom of jumping from the example of David, who danced before the ark; and of the lame man restored by our Saviour at the gate of the temple, who leaped for joy. But the practice is by no means so prevalent, or so generally adopted as heretofore: it seems daily losing ground; is wholly discontinued among the rational members of the society, as an unnecessary form, and only perceptible in the conduct of the most ignorant and illiterate enthusiasts, who form part of such congregations.

The bathing machines at Aberystwyth are constructed on the same plan as those of Tenby and Swansea, and are by no means inferior to similar vehicles used on the coasts of Kent or Sussex. Nor is the town void of warm sea water baths; besides which bountiful Nature has supplied it with a chalybeate spring, in its virtues resembling the waters of Tunbridge.

The mines in the neighbourhood of Aberystwyth were once considered inexhaustible, and calculated to produce 100 ounces of silver from a ton of lead, and to have created a profit of £2000 sterling per month.

Of late years, Mr. Lewis Morris worked many of the Cardiganshire mines, and was of opinion, that if he could have raised sufficient money for carrying on the works, it was in his power to have drawn from them an annual profit of 12,000l. In a letter written to his brother about the year 1757, he speaks of Cardiganshire as the richest county he ever knew, with the fewest people in it of ingenuity and talent.

The mines more immediately in the vicinity of Aberystwyth, are Cluernog, Cwmsymlog, and Cwmystwyth.

Great quantities of herrings have been taken here several years since, and cod and mackerel have been sent hence as far as Shrewsbury.

Aberystwyth imports for the use of the country, cast iron goods from Coalbrook Dale, shipped at Bristol, and groceries and grain from Ireland; coals from the southern ports of Wales, and much porter from Bristol. There is here no manufacture entitled to notice, but a considerable coasting trade is carried on with Liverpool, Bristol, and other parts of England. The exports are principally lead, calamine, &c. from the mines; with corn, butter, and oak bark.

The manners of the resident inhabitants of Aberystwyth may be said to have improved, certainly not to have degenerated, from their more frequent intercourse with strangers; a connection which other towns in Cardiganshire, situated more inland, have nut the opportunity of experiencing.

The late Mr. Curran, the celebrated Irish orator and advocate, and universally acknowledged as one of the brightest ornaments of the Irish Bar, in speaking of his own countrymen, characterizes them in terms that are not altogether inapplicable to the people of Wales (The hospitality of an Irishman is not the running account of posted and ledgered courtesies; it springs like all his other qualities, his faults, his virtues, directly from the heart. The heart of an Irishman is by nature bold, and he confides; it is tender, and he loves; it is generous, and he gives; it is social, and he is hospitable). But the town of Aberystwyth, from its locality and diversity of occupants, differs as widely in manners and behaviour, and in some respects in their language, from the people in other parts of Wales, as the inhabitants in the east and west of England, or the east and west ends of the metropolis of England differ from each other in these respects.

The harbour, with respect to vessels, even of middling size, whether outward or homeward bound, is neither sufficiently capacious, nor has it as yet been rendered so commodious, as from the nature of the place it might be.

The marine prospect from the shore is equally fine, with all other sea ports, where the view is bounded only by sea and sky. The rocks on each side, nature's strong bulwarks to the mountains right and left, are in some places very high, of a blackish hue, and excavated towards the bottom from the continued strength of the sea; dashing, with undiminished force and foam, against those flinty barriers of Merionethshire, Cardiganshire, and Pembrokeshire. The view of those mountains from the sea is alike grand, and exhibits a line of natural fortifications to the Welsh land, drawn with that exquisite sublimity of design, that mark it at once the work of nature's great architect. But the bar at the entrance of the harbour has barely sufficient water at spring tides to permit the passage of vessels of any considerable tonnage, from which many seafaring men and skilful mariners seek freight and employment, on other coasts, though allied by birth, kindred, friends, and family, to the town of Aberystwyth.

Shipbuilding has been carried on with all the spirit of emulation and industry that could be expected from such resources as are here afforded. Still the want of a sufficient harbour depresses the exertions of individuals, which would otherwise operate as a source of wealth and improvement to their own shore.

The Custom-House was erected about the year 1773, near the beach; and the business thereof removed from the port of Aberdyvi.

The Market, which formerly used to be held at Llanbadarn, has been removed to the lower part of the Town-Hall, at Aberystwyth; it is sufficiently supplied on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, with all kinds of butcher's meat, poultry, bacon, eggs, cheese, butter, &c. on reasonable terms. The mutton, though small, is particularly fine and sweet flavoured; poultry very plentiful, and of course much cheaper than in the country towns of England. Fish is by no means so plentiful as might be expected from the situation of Aberystwyth. Though the bay is so well known to abound with a variety of the finny tribe, and the adjoining rivers afford sufficient sport to those who are fond of the amusement of angling with fly or worm, yet the little encouragement given to fishermen of the place induces them to prefer the coasting service to any speculation.

As food for the mind, in the summer season, the town is enlivened by dramatic representations and assemblies.

A new theatre has been proposed to be built; and a race course talked of: both of which must convey additional attractions, and by many, be regarded as additional improvements to the town.

Here is also a good grammar-school, with other schools for the education of boys, and female schools, where the children of parents, in whatever sphere they may move, may receive the first rudiments of learning, and imbibe the first, lessons of scholastic lore, thereby laying the foundation for the display of future genius in a wider field, assisted by more scientific instruction.

Here, though there is no regular establishment of a poorhouse, mendicity is seldom seen.

When paupers become old or infirm, they are relieved either at their own dwellings, or sent to board with some person of their own age and sex, the expence of which is defrayed by a rate on the inhabitants, collected and distributed by the overseers of the poor for the time being. The number so relieved are but small; the hospitality of some, and benevolence of others, added to the innate pride of such applicants for parochial relief, who have seen better days, prevent the necessity of any very large establishment for the relief of the poor.

The manner of attending funerals, and paying that last respect to the memory of the deceased, is much more commendable in Wales, than in other countries, where parade and affectation are often times the substitutes for affection, where the semblance of woe too often mocks the reality. A Welsh funeral is much more decent than the hasty interment of the dead in many parts of England, attended by two, three, or half a dozen followers.

Among the poorer orders, it is customary for the friends of the deceased to assemble together on the day of interment, or the night preceding, and to give the relatives a piece of money, according to their circumstances; thus consoling and assisting, when assistance is most wanted.

By the contributions of friends and guests at their weddings, or biddings, (as they are termed), a young couple, not overburdened with Fortune's store, however rich in that which Fortune cannot always bestow, are enabled, from the gifts and loans of acquaintance and neighbours, to begin the world, in fervent hopes of better days, and ready at a future period in returning such loans, to encourage others entering into the matrimonial state.

These customs, however ludicrous to the eye of fashion, tend to unite the lower orders of society in bonds of amity and love; and whether adopted from the manners of the Flemings, the Normans, or the Saxons, by which Wales has from time to time been governed, they are not less worthy of imitation, encouragement, or reward, and if not immediately conducive to the amelioration of the condition of the people, cannot be supposed as tending in the smallest degree to vitiate their morals or corrupt their hearts.

The costume of both sexes preserve a great degree of similarity in all weathers, and very little variation is made in their dress, either in summer or winter. The women continue to wear mobcaps and silk handkerchiefs, with black beaver hats, whether in hail, rain, or sunshine, and not unfrequently an extra handkerchief, serves as an additional ornament to their headdress. The men in general evince by their dress, the same independence of seasons.

The Welsh ladies, however, though they may not be quite so tractable as females of other countries, it must be acknowledged, are not deficient in constancy, affection, or fidelity, or at all inferior in their conjugal and maternal duties to others who may be, or may fancy themselves to be, more polished.

The old-fashioned prejudice and prepossessions, noticed in former days by Cambrian travellers, as springing from the pride of birth or title, or emanating from any other capricious source of Fortune, seems fast approaching to a decline in Wales.

Exclusive of a Circulating Library of many hundred volumes, which are let out to read on the usual terms, monthly, quarterly, or yearly, there is a Subscription Reading-room, regularly supplied with London and provincial newspapers; and pianofortes may also be hired for any specified time at the library.

Rides and Regulations for the Observation and Government of the Members of the Reading-room, at Cox's Library, Aberystwyth.1. That every yearly subscriber pay the sum of one guinea at the time of entrance, (the year to be computed from the 5th day of July), and the like sum per annum, during such time as he shall continue a member.2. That two London daily newspapers, and at least three provincial weekly papers, viz. the Hereford Journal, Carmarthen Journal, and Shrewsbury Chronicle, be taken for the use of the subscribers to the reading-room exclusively, and not to be taken out of the room on any pretence whatever.3. That every subscriber shall have the privilege of introducing a friend (being no subscriber) to the rooms, twice, if a stranger to the town; and once, if a resident, but not oftener.4. That persons visiting Aberystwyth, who may wish to subscribe for a short period, be eligible to become subscribers for three months, on payment of 10s. 6d. or for one month, on payment of 5s.5. That all the papers taken be filed (separately), and deemed the property of the subscribers, until six months after the end of every year.6. That a monthly Navy and Army List, and an annual Court Calendar, be regularly purchased, and kept for the use of the subscribers.7. That any person taking a paper or book out of the reading-room, do forfeit 5s. for each time offending.8. That the hours of attending the room, be from eight o'clock in the morning until eight o'clock in the evening.9. That a quarterly meeting of the annual subscribers be held, for the better regulation of the rules of this society, whenever found necessary, viz. on the first Tuesday in the months of September, December, March, and June, in each year, between the hours of twelve and two o'clock; and that no alteration whatever be made in any of the rules, without the consent of a majority of the subscribers present at some or one of such quarterly meetings.

A coach to and from Aberystwyth, goes from the Gogerddan Arms, every Monday and Friday mornings at four o'clock, and returns on the same evening at nine, during the summer season; and in the other times of the year, it leaves Aberystwyth every Friday morning only, by way of Machynllaith, Mallwyd, Can-Office, Llanvair, Welshpool, and Shrewsbury.— Another goes from the Old Black Lion every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at four in the morning; returns the same evening about nine, by way of the Devil's Bridge, Llanidloes, Newtown, Welshpool, and Shrewsbury. Those two coaches go from Aberystwyth to Shrewsbury, where they meet the London and other coaches.—A third goes from the Talbot and Royal Hotel every Wednesday and Sunday mornings at seven; returns the same evening about six, by way of Devil's Bridge, Rhaiader, Pen-y-bont, Kington, Leominster, and Worcester; meets the London, Bristol, and Bath coaches.

Waggons go every week alternate to Shrewsbury, where they meet the waggons to London and elsewhere. One goes to Carmarthen every week.

Letters from London arrive every day except Tuesday, about twelve o'clock in the forenoon. Letters to London are dispatched every day except Friday, at half past three in the afternoon.

There is a south post departs every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday, at four in the morning, which returns the same days, at seven in the evening. The north post goes out every morning at twelve, and returns at seven in the evening.

The Post-office is in Great Dark-gate street.

The following descriptive analysis of the chalybeate spring, was written by Mr. Richard Williams, of Aberystwyth, Honorary Member of the Physical Society, London, and of the "London Vaccine Institution." Exclusive of the convenience and goodness of the bathing at Aberystwyth, it possesses, like Scarborough and Brighton, an advantage over many other places on the coast, that of having in its immediate vicinity a fine chalybeate spring, the use of which is applicable to, and will much assist in the cure of many diseases for which the sea is visited. This well was discovered by accident about the year 1779, and is situated a few hundred yards east of the town, upon a common close to the river, and not far distant from a stone quarry.

Some years ago, when the water was directed from the river, for the purpose of clearing away the weeds which had collected there, the well became dry, and a small stream proceeding from the north was observed rising from the bed of the river. Upon covering this over, the flow returned at the usual place.

The neighbouring country abounds in springs of a ferruginous nature, and traces of sulphur have been lately discovered at Penglaise, the beautiful villa of Roderick Richardes, Esq. This spa yields about one gallon in a minute. After rain it runs much faster, and its specific gravity at the temperature of 56 is equal to that of distilled water. During the months of March and April, the temperature varied from 46° to 50°, and did not rise higher when that of the atmosphere was above 60° (In July it reached 53).

Before sunrise, when the degree of heat was 42, that of the well continued 47, Fahrenheit.

Its sensible properties, when first taken up from the well, are—it is quite clear, colourless, and bright; it exhales a chalybeate smell, does not sparkle in the glass, but slowly separates a few bubbles, some of which ascend to the top, and make their escape, while others adhere to the sides of the vessel in larger quantities than in common water.

To the taste, it is neither acidulous or saline (except after high tides, when it has been mixed with sea water), but simply chalybeate, and is by no means unpalatable.

When the water has rested for some time exposed to the air, it becomes turbid throughout; an iridescent pellicle encrusts the surface, and in a few hours a brown precipitate falls to the bottom, the water having lost its mineral properties. The same effects take place more rapidly when assisted by heat.

With different reagents, the following appearances are manifested: Tincture of galls affords a fine purple approaching to black, but not after it has stood long, or been boiled.

Solution of silver in nitric acid, gives first a pale white, which becomes blue on exposure to the light.

Lime water renders it immediately turbid; and tincture of litmus becomes changed to a light red colour.

Syrup of violets, after standing for some time, becomes very slightly green.

Concentrated sulphuric acid produces no sensible disengagement of bubbles.

Oxalic acid evinces no change.

A solution of soap is curdled both before and after it has been boiled, therefore it may be called a hard water.

Nitrate of barytes does not indicate the presence of sulphuric acid.

Solution of blue vitriol causes a green colour.

Volatile caustic ammonia, and caustic potash, occasion yellowish sediments.

By a careful evaporation, a wine gallon of this water will afford eight grains of solid matter, and occasionally a larger proportion.—The residue has a salt taste; and, by the addition of sulphuric acid, evolves muriatic acid gas.

A small portion being mixed with cold spring water, suffered to rest for two or three hours, then filtered through paper, and a little of the nitrate of silver dropped into the solution, a white cloudiness takes place. This is followed by a blue precipitate, which is not redissolved by the nitric or acetic acids.

This water has been supposed to contain a small portion of sulphur, but as yet, I have not been able to ascertain its existence. The acetate of lead, when employed in solution, assumes a faint blue, with a tinge of brown, which is probably owing to the presence of muriatic acid.

From the above experiments, it is evident that this water contains calx of iron, which is suspended by the medium of carbonic acid gas and marine salt; in other respects, I do not find that it differs materially from pure spring water; therefore, it may be termed a simple carbonated chalybeate, and much resembles the Tunbridge waters.

The track over which it flows, is marked by an ochery deposition, and no frogs or small fish are seen within the influence of the fixed air; it being destructive to animal life when respired, and in some instances capable of producing effects similar to those of intoxication.

The medicinal virtues of this spa depend on the carbonic acid, and oxide of iron, the salts being too inconsiderable to deserve any particular attention.

By proper regulation, it will be found very salutary in all relaxations of the stomach, and intestinal canal, as well as general debility, stimulating the action of the heart and arteries, and increasing the florid colour of the blood;—by perseverance in its use the appetite becomes excited, and the spirits improved. And in a variety of disorders, where steel may be required, it will prove of considerable service.

On commencing a course of this water, the bowels should be attended to, and an aperient medicine administered, or a small quantity of sulphate of magnesia occasionally combined with it —The constitution of the patient should likewise be considered; and if there is any tendency fo inflammatory complaints, determination of blood to the head, or pulmonary affection, its use must be either laid aside, or continued with caution.

To persons of a delicate habit, the fresh drawn water may, from its low temperature, occasion an unpleasant sensation in the stomach, which may be prevented by adding a little tincture of cardamoms, or any other cordial, which I think preferable to wanning it (This is done by filling a bottle, corking it well, and immersing it in hot water for ten minutes) for the carbonic acid is in the latter method too often suffered to escape.

A quarter of a pint should be taken two or three times a day, and it would be most advantageous, for obvious reasons, to drink it at the well about eight o'clock in the morning, and again between breakfast and dinner, gradually increasing the dose according to the age and habits of the invalid.

Chalybeate waters, when first employed, frequently evacuate the bowels, especially if there is any accumulation of bile in them; but their operation ceases so soon as the intestines are restored to their natural state, and the opposite effect is apt to occur.

The requisite duration of a course of steel water extends from three to eight or nine weeks; when it agrees, the whole frame becomes strengthened: the urinary and cuticular excretions augmented, the faeces become of a dark colour, a circumstance generally accompanying a course of chalybeate waters, and which it may be proper, the patient should be aware of. When assisted by the warm bath, its power over chlorosis, and other obstructions, will be much more perceptible; but if in this time it fails to regenerate health, a further trial would not be desirable, as little or no advantage could be expected from it.

As a topical application, it has been resorted to, with success for various species of ulcers, and sometimes given relief in chronic ophthalmia.

The roads from Aberystwyth to Machynlleth, through Talybont, and from Aberystwyth to Cardigan, by the way of Aberayron, are kept in as good order, for equestrian or pedestrian travellers, as the generality of roads throughout England, and exhibit as great a diversity of rural and marine prospect, as can possibly be discovered in such extent in any other part of the principality, or in any part of the united kingdom.

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ABERYSTWYTH, or Aberystwith, is a town, seaport and municipal borough and bathing resort, the head of a union and county court district, in the county of Cardigan, and has a terminal station of the Cambrian and Manchester and Milford railways; it is 208 miles from London by road, 289 by Great Western railway via Carmarthen and 238 by London and North Western railway vis Shrewsbury, 38 by road and 98 by rail from Cardigan, 56 north from Carmarthen, 148 from Manchester, 144 from Birmingham, and 172 from Bristol, in the hundred of Geneu’r-Glyn, petty sessional division of Lower Geneu’r-Glyn, rural deanery of Llanbadarn Fawr, archdeaconry of Cardigan, and diocese of St. David’s. The name Aberystwyth is derived in part from the Cymric “aber,” “a confluence,” this being the spot where the streams of the Rheidol and the Ystwyth unite, in the same estuary, and the ancient village was situated to the west on the bank of the Ystwyth, and on land now covered by the sea. From its beautiful position on the shores of Cardigan Bay, together with its mountain scenery, which includes the celebrated Plinlimmon (2,469 feet), the romantic beauty of the Rheidol and the Mynach at Devil's bridge; the warmth and salubrity of its climate and the attractiveness of its buildings, it is deservedly popular as a watering place, and since the opening of the Cambrian railway in 1864 and the Manchester and Milford railway, via Carmarthen, in 1867, it has been annually resorted to by thousands of visitors, and has weekly communication by steamer with Bristol and Liverpool. There are no sands, but at Borth, about six miles distant, they are very fine. The beach here is of shingle, with an admixture of dark coloured sand, and amongst the stones, pebbles of crystal, cornelian, jasper, onyx, trap stone, mochas and agate are met with, and are much sought after by visitors and polished by the lapidaries, of whom there are many in this town; the rocks also afford the naturalist opportunities of gathering several varieties of fucus and other algae and corallines, which abound in their creeks. The easy slope of the beach enables bathing to be carried on at all times, with the exception of about an hour at low water; the ladies’ bathing machines are stationed opposite the Marine terrace; and the gentlemen’s, on the other side of the rocks, extending from Bryn-diodde. Fishing boats belonging to the port are distinguished by the letters A.B. The harbour was transferred to the Corporation and regulations made by 37 and 38 Vict. c. 120 (1873), and its limits were defined in 1847, by the “Customs Act. 1846 " (9 and 10 Vict. c. 102), to commence at New Quay head, and to continue to the North bank of the river Dyssyin. The town consists of four streets running parallel with the sea front, and a number of others crossing these, mostly at right angles; some of the streets are of good width and planted with trees, and there are good shops of every sort.

The Marine parade, which immediately faces the sea, is a splendid crescent-shaped promenade about a mile in length and very wide, lined from end to end with houses and hotels, mostly large and of good style, and is also well furnished with seats, and at intervals along the sea wall are steps to the beach; since 1866 the corporation have spent upwards of £10,000 in its maintenance and improvement, so that it is now one of the principal features of the town.

The Promenade Pier at the south end of the Marine terrace is a light and elegant structure about 700 feet long, the pier head being 45 feet wide, built in 1865, at a cost of about £12,000; it is constructed upon the rocks, which are covered at high water, and has comfortable seats on each side for its whole length; the views afforded of the castle, town and bay are highly attractive. Promenade concerts are also held on the pier during the season.

The town is said to have been a borough by prescription, and was formerly governed, under a charter of Henry IV. by a mayor (chosen, annually at the Court Leet), recorder, chamberlain, burgesses and) other officers, but on the passing of the “Municipal Corporations’ Act, 1835” (5 and 6 Wm. IV. c. 76), it was reconstituted, under the style of “The Mayor and Burgesses of the Town, Borough and Liberty of Aberystwyth,” and now consists of a mayor, four aldermen and twelve councillors. In conjunction with Cardigan, Lampeter and Newcastle-Emlyn the borough sent one representative to Parliament, but under the provisions of the “Redistribution of Seats Act, 1855,” (48 and 49 Vict. c. 23), the representation of the borough was merged in that of the county. The borough has a commission of the peace. The town council acts as the Urban Sanitary Authority, under the “Public Health Act, 1875” (38 and 39 Vict, c. 55) and strenuous endeavours have been made to cleanse the rivers Rheidol and Ystwyth. once famous for their fine trout and salmon, from the pollutions arising from mines and other causes. Drainage works have been carried out by the Corporation at a cost of £13,200.

The town has also been supplied, at a cost of £20,000, with a supply of pure water from Llyn Llygad Rheidol, a lake eleven acres in extent, on the northern side of the Plynlimmon mountain; the water is conveyed from an altitude of nearly 2,000 feet to the sea-level at Aberystwyth, a distance of is miles, in iron mains.

The Gas Works, in Smithfield road, were erected in 1838, and are the property of a private company; the present paid up capital is £8,000; there are over 650 consumers.

The Ecclesiastical parish of St. Michael was formed in 1861 out of the civil parish of Llanbadarnfawr.

The late church of St. Michael, which stood near the castle and the sea, was a modern cruciform structure, in a poor style of Gothic, erected in 1833, but was wholly removed in 1894.

The present church of St. Michael and All Angels, which occupies a site a short distance east of the old building, was erected in 1890, at a cost of over £9,550, including the site, and consecrated 30 Sept. 1890; it is of Yorkshire stone in the Geometric Decorated style, from designs by Messrs. Nicholson and Son, architects, of Hereford, and consists, at present, of chancel, with north chapel, nave of four bays, aisles, organ chamber, vestry, north and south porches and a bell-cote at the east gable of the nave containing one bell: the western walls are temporary only, it being intended to add two more bays to the nave and to erect a north-west tower: the east window is stained, and beneath is an elaborate reredos of fine Ancaster stone, with a carved reproduction in the centre of “The Lord’s Supper,” after Leonardo da Vinci; both the, window and reredos were given in memory of the late Thomas Jones, and his wife, of this town, by their daughters; in the chapel is a memorial window to Elizabeth Evans of Waterford, presented by her daughter; there are triple sedilia under arched canopies, and a piscina, and on the north side a credence niche and an aumbry: the church affords 830 sittings, 530 being free.

The adjoining churchyard contains a number of singulas memorials consisting of low and narrow brick walls, with gravestones let into them as tablets. The register of baptisms dates from the year 1788; marriages, 1804; and burials, 1791. The living is a vicarage, gross yearly value £300, with residence, in the gift of the Bishop of St. David’s, and held since 1886 by the Ven. James Havard Protheroe M.A. of Corpus Christi College, Cambridge, archdeacon of Cardigan and prebendary of St. David’s.

Holy Trinity is an ecclesiastical parish, formed in 1887, the church, erected in 1886, at a cost of £5,700, raised by public subscription and endowed with an annual income of £251, by the late Miss Morice of Carnog, is a building of local stone with Bath stone dressings, in the Perpendicular style, from designs by Messrs Middleton and Son, of Westminster, and at present consists only of nave, transepts, north, porch and a central tower containing one bell: the nave roof of oak is of the hammer beam type so common in Norfolk, but simpler in detail, being enriched with mouldings and some carving: the organ was provided in 1892 at a cost of £400; the handsome carved oak pulpit was presented by Dr. Jacob Roberts, of Aberystwyth, and the brass eagle lectern in 1895 by a member of the congregation: the font is a memorial to the late Miss Jones, of Fron-y-gog: the church plate was the gift at Easter, 1892, of John Watkins esq. of North Parade: there are 600 sittings. The register dates from 1886. The living is a vicarage, gross yearly value £251, in the gift of the Bishop of St. Davids, and held since 1887 by the Rev. David Williams M.A. of Jesus. College, Oxford, prebendary of St. David’s, and surrogate.

St. Mary’s, Gray’s Inn lane, erected in 1866 as a chapel of ease to the parish church of St. Michael, is a building of native stone, with Bath stone dressings, in the Decorated style, consisting of chancel, nave of five bays, aisles, west porch and a western bell turret containing 2 bells: the organ from the old parish church has been removed here: there are sittings for about 450 persons, of which half are free; the services are in Welsh.

The Catholic church of Our Lady of the Angels and St. Winefride, in Queen’s road, is a building of stone, in the Early English style, erected in 1874 from designs by Mr. George Jones, of this town, and consists of chancel and nave only; the magnificent altar of carved stone was the gift of Mrs. Gillow, of Hampton Park, Hereford: the church has 300 sittings.

The (English) Presbyterian chapel, in Bath street, erected in 1871, is a building of stone, faced with Bath stone, and will seat 450 persons. The (English) Wesleyan chapel, in Queen’s road, erected in 1871 at a cost of nearly £3,000, is a building of stone, with Bath stone dressings, in the Early English and Decorated styles; it has tower and spire, and will seat 450 persons.

The English Congregational chapel, in Portland street, built at a cost of £2,600, and opened in July, 1866, is an edifice of native stone, with Bath stone dressings, in the Early English and Decorated styles, and has a tower and spire, 80 feet high; in 1880 a lecture room and 6 class rooms for the Sunday school, and a residence for the minister were built, at a cost of £2,300; the chapel will seat 500 persons.

St. Paul’s (Welsh) Wesleyan chapel, in Great Darkgate street, built in 1882 at a cost of £5,000, is in the Classic style, and will seat 700 persons.

The (English) Baptist chapel, Alfred place, erected in 1871 at a cost of £2,000, is an edifice in the Gothic style, from designs by Mr. Richard Owen, architect, of Liverpool, and affords 450 sittings; there are schools underneath for 350 children.

Salem (Welsh) Calvinistic Methodist chapel, situated at the bottom of Portland street, erected in 1894—5, a cost of £2,300, is a building of local stone, with Grinshill stone dressings, in the Gothic style, from plans by Mr. T. E. Morgan, architect, of this town, and will seat 450 persons.

The Public Cemetery, 6 acres in extent, is on the road to Llanbadarn, and has an entrance from the road near Llangawsa: it is well laid out, and has two chapels, in the Late Perpendicular style, from designs by Mr. W. Spaull, of Oswestry: the first interment took place on the 4th September, 1860; it is under the control of a burial board of 9 members.

The Town Hall, in the Queen’s road, is a building of stone, in a modern Classic style, and contains a large central hall and other apartments for the use of the bench and bar and for the business of the. County Court. A county court is held here monthly, as well as the Admiralty and Bankruptcy Court for the districts of Aberystwyth, Aberayon, Dolgelley and Machynlleth. Aberystwyth is a district registry of the High Court of Justice. The borough magistrates hold their sessional meetings here every Wednesday, and occasionally meetings of county magistrates are held.

The Clock Tower, erected by public subscription in 1857, in Great Darkgate street, on the site of the Old Town Hall, at a cost of £1,100, from the designs of Mr. Trevor Owen, of Liverpool, is a building of native stone with Bath stone dressings, containing a fine clock presented by the Pryse family, of Gogerddan, illuminated at night: connected with it is a drinking fountain, over which is a bronze casting representing the “Woman of Samaria.”

The Assembly Rooms, in Great Darkgate street, are well adapted for dramatic entertainments, concerts, balls and public meetings; attached is a reading room, partly supported by subscriptions, and a free library, opened in 1875, and now (1895) containing about 4,821 volumes: the hall will hold 400 people: the Corporation are the lessees.

There is a large hall in Terrace road, capable of seating 1,000 persons; David Phillips, proprietor.

The Pareezer Hall and Opera House, in Portland street, is capable of seating 800; it is fully licensed for stage plays and is completely fitted.

The Temperance Hall, North parade, is occupied by the Salvation Army.

Aberystwyth Public Baths, in Bath street, were erected in, 1880 by a company, and include a large swimming bath as well as other baths.

The Aberystwyth Infirmary and Cardiganshire General Hospital was originally established in 1821, in Little Darkgate street, as a dispensary, but in 1885 a new building of local stone was erected from the designs of Mr. Bruce Vaughan, architect, of Cardiff, on the side of a hill overlooking the town from the north, at a cost of £5,000 left for that purpose by the late Joseph Downie esq. who also endowed it with £25,000; it contains 24 beds. The number of in-patients in 1894 was 162 and of out-patients 1,412; the infirmary is supported in part by voluntary contributions.

The Police Station, Great Darkgate street, is a substantial building erected by the county at an outlay of £1,500 and contains offices for the chief constable and quarters for two sergeants and two constables, with cells for prisoners; there is also a magistrates’ room, where the county and borough petty sessional courts are occasionally held.

The Corn, Butter, Cheese and Wool Market, in Market street, was erected in 1870 from the designs of Mr. George Jones, architect, of this town; it is a plain structure of local stone, very commodious, and well suited for its purpose; the large room over the market will seat 800 persons. The Meat Market is in St. James’ square.

The market days are Monday and Saturday, and the first Monday in every month is also a cattle fair or market. Fairs for horses and cattle are held on the 10th of May and in September, and the two first Mondays after the 12th November are called hiring fairs, when farmers and masters meet for hiring Servants.

The London and Provincial Bank Limited, the National Provincial Bank of England Limited and the North and South Wales Bank Limited have branches here.

The Barracks, erected from the designs of Mr. J. W. Szlumper, at a cost of £3,800, form an extensive building of local stone, with white Ruabon brick dressings, and consists of 12 tenements, occupied by the permanent staff and their families; connected with the main structure is a castellated tower 55 feet high, and at each corner of the block are small towers of the same description.

The Public Slaughter House, in Smithfield, the property of the Corporation, was designed by Mr. James W. Szlumper, and erected at a cost of about £2,000.

The engineering works of Mr. George Green, near the railway station, give employment to a number of hands: mining machinery is largely constructed, including patented machinery for dressing ore.

There are also two iron foundries, three extensive enamelled slate works, a tannery and a brewery; a considerable trade is also carried on in timber, agricultural and mining implements.

The National Lifeboat Institution has a station here, founded in 1861, with a boat called the “Elizabeth Lloyd.”

The principal hotels are-The Queen’s, Marine terrace, is an edifice of native stone, with a sea frontage of 154 feet; the Belle Vue, on the Marine parade.

The Gogerddan Arms and Lion (Royal), from its central position, affords great facilities for commercial gentlemen.

The Talbot, in Market street, a very old-established house.

The White Horse, in Terrace road, recently rebuilt, and the Waterloo Temperance hotel, on the Marine parade, lately enlarged and refitted.

The Elysium grove, on the Penglais estate, at the north end of the town, is a very picturesque walk, for admission to which a charge is made.

The ruins of the Castle occupy a commanding position to the west of the town: around the rocky hill forming the site of these remains is an extensive promenade, and the grounds immediately adjoining the ruins have been laid out in walks with seats at intervals, and afford fine and extensive ocean views: the castle was erected about 1109 by Gilbert Strongbow, son of Richard de Clare, Earl of Striguil: Gwynedd Owain, in 1142, captured and burnt it: in 1164 it is said to have been destroyed by Rhys ap Gruffydd, and again in 1207 by Maelgwyn: Llewellyn, prince of North Wales, rebuilt the castle, and it was afterwards alternately held both by the Welsh and English during a long period of continual strife: in the reign of Henry IV. it was taken and held by Owain Glyndwr until 1408, when the English regained it, and in 35 Henry VIII. the Earl of Pembroke was appointed captain of the fortress: in 1631 a mint was established in it by grant from Charles I. for whom it was garrisoned during the civil war. It was, however, ultimately captured in 1647 by the Parliamentary forces and was then, dismantled; the ruins as now standing, consist of a number of isolated fragments; but one embattled tower is still fairly perfect, and bears a flagstaff.

Pen Glais, commonly called “Constitution Hill,” which flanks the town on the north, is about 460 feet high, and commands a splendid view of the town and bay. Plinlimmon to the east, and Cader Idris and the Carnarvon shrine ranges to the north; the descent on that side leads to Clarach bay, a small inlet, receiving a mountain stream.

Pen Dinas, an eminence about a mile south, is 400 feet above the sea level, with a steep declivity on the western side: on the summit are the remains of an ancient British encampment and a column in honour of the great Duke of Wellington, who died 14 Sept. 1852, erected by the late Major Richardes, of Bryneithyn.

The Devil’s Bridge, the beautiful valley of the Rheidol, and the fine falls of the Mynach, about 12 miles distant, form the principal attractions in the neighbourhood, and are easily reached by means of the excursion breaks which leave the town daily during the season, taking the direct route above the valley of the Rheidol on the cut-ward journey, and returning by the north Road, vis Pont Erwyd; the road, which, according to the survey of the Ordnance department, is at the ninth mile-stone 971 feet above the sea level, both here and at other points affords many splendid views, with the twin summits of Plinlimmon in the background amid a noble range of hills. A descent of three miles from this point brings the visitor suddenly in view of the wonderful chasm, surmounted by the Hafod hotel, from the grounds of which only the bridge and falls can be viewed; the facilities for exploring the beauties of the Mynach and Rheidol Falls in detail have of late years been greatly increased, a light bridge of wrought iron having been thrown across the bottom of the ravine, which, without intercepting the view, affords the pedestrian an opportunity of enjoying a view of the cascade from either side, and relieves him from incurring the toil of a double journey: the chasm in the rocks is upwards of 100 feet deep, although in some places scarcely 3 feet wide. The Mynach descends a succession of falls on the northern side of the bridge, the first being is feet in depth, the second 60, and the third 20, when the stream is obstructed and broken by masses of stone, among which it makes its way, and then finally rushes over the precipice in a grand cascade of 110 feet: the original Pont-ar-Mynach is supposed to have been built by the monks of Strata Florida, but has also been attributed to the Knights Hospitallers, who were at one time owners of considerable property in this neighbourhood: in 1753, the ancient structure having begun to exhibit signs of decay, a new arch was erected above it at the expense of the county, and the old bridge is now left beneath to moulder away: about two miles higher up the Rheidol is the Parson’s bridge, a rustic timber structure, resting on precipitous rocks overhanging the torrent; at Pont Erwyd, three miles from the Devil’s bridge, are two single arched bridges, and close to the Gogerddan Arms inn is another fine fall. Other excursions of interest may be made to the fine church of Llanbadarn Vawr, the ancient causeway or breakwater called “Sarn Cynfelin,” the Monk’s Cave, the Llyfnant valley and its double cascade, the splendid sands at Borth, Strata Florida Abbey, Talyllyn lake, Plinlimmon, Towyn and Aberdovey.

The corporation are lords of the manor, under the charter granted by Henry IV.: the land was chiefly then sand hills, covered by water at spring tides nearly as far as the mountains, but is now nearly all built on, and about four-fifths of the town belong to the corporation: the land is let on leases of 99 years, 60 of which have expired, and the corporation now grant renewals of 75 years on the existing leases on payment by the lessees of of a fine and annual ground rent, based upon the present annual value of the property. William Beauclere Powell esq. of Nat-Enos, Sir Pryse Pryse bart. of Gogerddan, the Earl of Lisburne, Geo. William Parry esq. of Llydiardau, John George William Bonsall esq. of Fronfraith, James George Frederick Hughes-Bonsall, of Glanrheidol; Roderick Clement Richardes esq. of Penglais, Matthew Lewis Vaughan Davies esq. of Tanybwlch, C. Le Brun Powell esq. of Sunny hill, Tregaron, and Reginald James Rice Loxdale esq. of Castle, Hill Llanilar, are the chief landowners in the neighbourhood.

The area of the borough is 845 acres; rateable value, £27,385; the population in 1891 was 6,725.

The population of Holy Trinity ecclesiastical parish in 1891 was 2,306; and of St. Michael, 4,419.

University College of Wales

The University College of Wales (one of the constituent colleges of the Univarsity of Wales), erected from the designs of Mr. J. P. Seddon, architect, of London, and opened in 1872, was originally intended for an hotel, upon which a sum of £85,000 had been spent, when it was sold to a committee for £10,000 for the purposes of a college, The style is of a mixed character, chiefly Early English, and the buildings form an extensive but very irregular pile, including two lofty but dissimilar and unfinished towers close together, and next these a porch of two pedimented arches converging outwards to a pier on the pavement. A fire occurred in 1885 which destroyed the north wing; it has since been reconstructed at a cost of £25,000 and made more suitable for college purposes. In 1894 the Government promised a grant of £10,000 towards completing the building, on the condition that £5,000 should be locally contributed. This amount has now (1895) been secured and plans are being prepared for the necessary additions; a commodious hall or residence is also being erected for 130 women students. A Charter of Incorporation was granted to the college September 10th, 1889. Towards the support of the college a sum of upwards of £60,000 has been voluntarily contributed, and a grant of £4,000 yearly is received from the Government. The education is non-sectarian, and the fees do not exceed £10 yearly. In addition to the faculties of Arts and Science there is a department for the training of secondary teachers, another for elementary teachers (day training department); and also an Agricultural Department, with a special laboratory for giving instruction in agricultural chemistry and a well-equipped dairy. This department received in 1894—5 a grant of £800 from the Board of Agriculture, and besides college work the operations of this department are extended to the affiliated counties of Cardigan, Pembroke, Carmarthen, Brecon, Radnor, Montgomery and Merioneth. From its central position, with regard to the whole of the Principality, as well as its great accessibility from England, healthy climate and magnificent scenery, the college undoubtedly offers many attractions. The number of students during the session 1894—5 exceeded 340.

County Police Station, Great Darkgate street, Howell Evans, chief constable; (vacant), superintendent; the local force consists of 1 inspector, 1 sergeant & 5 constables.

Aberystwyth Union

Board day, alternate Mondays at 11 a.m. at the Workhouse, Lower Vainor.

The union comprises the following parishes:-Aberystwyth, Broncastellan, Caelan-y-Maeis-mawr, Clarach, Cwmrheidol, Cytfoeth-y-Brenin, Cynnill-Mawr Elerch, Henllys, Issayndre, Llanafan, Llanfoadarn-y-Croyddin Upper, Llanbadarn-y-Croyddin Lower, Llancyfelin, Llanddeinol, Llanfihangel-y-Croyddin Upper, Llanfihangel-y-Croyddin Lower, Llangwyryfon, Llanilar, Llanrhystid-Hiaminiog, Llanrhyistid-Mefenydd, Llanydhaiarn, Melindwr, Parcel-Canol, Rhostie, Trefeirig, Tir-y-Mynach, Uchayndre, Vainor Upper, Vainor Lower. The population of the union in 1891 was 21,102; area, 131,350 acres; rateable value in 1894, £92,846.

The Workhouse, Lower Vainor, on the north side of the town, is a plain building erected in 1840, with a frontage of 220 feet, & is calculated to hold 106 paupers; Wm.

Places of Worship, with times of Services

St. Michael’s Parish Church, Ven. James Havard Protheroe M.A. vicar; Rev. William Evans M.A. & Rev. William Morgan B.A. curates; 8 & 11 a.m. & 6.30 p.m.; daily, 10 a.m.; Wed. 7 p.m.; holy days, 8 a.m. & 7 p.m.

St. Mary’s Chapel of Ease (Welsh), Gray’s Inn lane; 10 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Thur. 7 p.m.

Holy Trinity, Rev. David Williams M.A. vicar; Rev. D. L. Prosser B.A. curate; 8.30 & 11 a.m. & 3.45 & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.; all holy days, 11 a.m.

Catholic Church of Our Lady of the Angels & St. Winefride, Queen’s road, Rev. Thomas Carolan, priest; Sun. M. Oct. 1 to May 31, 10; June 1 to Sept 30,10 ½; R. inst. B. 6. Hds. M. 8. R. inst. B. 8. Wkds. M. 8 sum, 8 ½ wint. Th. R. inst. B. 7 .

Presbyterian (English), Bath street, Rev. Richard Hughes; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Wed. & Thur. 7 p.m. 450.

Baptist (English), Alfred place, Rev. Thomas Williams B.A.; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Wed. 7.15 p.m. 450.

Baptist (Welsh), Baker street, Rev. J. A. Morris; 9.30 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Tues. & Fri. 7 p.m. 750.

Congregational, Portland street, Rev. T. A. Penry; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Wed. 7 p.m. 500.

Congregational (Welsh), Baker street, 7 p.m. Rev. Job Miles; 9.30 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Tues. & Thur. 7 p.m. 714.

Calvinistic Methodist (Welsh) (Tabernacle), Powell street; Rev. Thomas Levi, Rev. Wm. Jones & Rev. John Williams; 9.30 & 6 p.m.; Wed. & Thur. 7 p.m. 1000.

Calvinistic Methodist (Welsh) (Salem), Portland street; 9.30 & 6 p.m.; Wed. & Thur. 7 p.m.

Calvinistic Methodist (Welsh) (Shiloh), Queen’s road, 9.30 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Wed. & Thur. 7 p.m. 900.

United Free Methodist Church, Station ter.; 10 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Wed. &; Thur. 7 p.m.

Wesleyan, Queen’s rd. Rev. Thomas Jackson; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Thur. 7.15 p.m. 450.

Wesleyan (Welsh), St. Paul’s, Great Darkgate street, Rev. T. J. Pritchard; 10 a.m. & 6 p.m.; every evening (except sat.), 7 p.m. 700.

Wesleyan (Welsh), Cambrian street; Rev. T. J. Pritchard; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.; Tues. & Wed. 7 p.m. 200.

Salvation Army, Temperance Hall, North parade.

Schools

The Baptist College, instituted and settled at Haverfordwest in 1839, was removed to present premises here in Oct. 1894, in order to afford the students the advantage of attending the classes at the University College. These, originally a private house, have been conveniently adapted. The object of the college is to train young men for the Baptist ministry. The income for the year ending Aug.1st.1894, was £741 15s. and the expenditure £933 14s. 1d. and there are now (1895) 16 students.

A School Board of 7 members was formed 29 Nov. 1870; R. J. Roberts, clerk to the board, 1 Baker st.; David Lloyd, 3 Marine terrace, school board officer. The board meets at the Board School 2nd Tuesday in each month, at 6 p.m.

Board School, Lewis terrace, built in 1874, for 200 boys, 200 girls & 200 infants; average attendance, 175 beys, 190 girls & 200 infants. Two additional rooms have been added for 70 children.

National (mixed & infants), North road, erected at a cost of £3,500, & opened in 1867, for 470 boys & girls, & 110 infants; average attendance, 275 boys & girls, & 110 infants.

National, Penyparke (mixed), built & endowed by the late Misses Pritchard, in 1846 & enlarged in 1870, for 220 children, number on the books, 69; average attendance, 50.

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In Llanbadarn-fawr parish is the hamlet of ABERYSTWYTH, which is a very pleasant summer retreat, and is improving yearly. The roads, which ought to be the first consideration of those who wish to Improve any place, have of late been made equally as good as the best in England. Leland says, “Abreostuthe hath been waullyd, and hathe greate privilegis, and is a bettar market than Cairdigan.” Camden says, “Aberystwith is the most populous town in the whole county” and that “it was fortified with walls by Gilbert de Clare and Walter Bec, an Englishman, held it a long time against the Welsh.” Part of this old wall of the town still remains on the side next the sea, but stripped of its facing. It is at present the largest town in the county, and the number of strangers who visit it in the summer season increasing have caused a considerable number of new houses to be built. A great many of these are the property of Sir Thomas Bonsai, Knt. of Fronvraith. Here are three very good inns and a handsome town-hall, under which the market is held. This has been of late used as a playhouse though the foundation of a new one has been laid. Assemblies are held here during the summer, and the place bids fair to rival the English watering-places. The herrings fishery flourished here about thirty years ago; and that fish, as well as cod, is frequently caught at present. The harbour is not sufficiently large or commodious for the utmost extent of trade, of which the place, from its situation, is capable, the bar, at its entrance, preventing ships of any considerable burthen from entering, except in spring tides. The trade it carries on at present is from the exportation of lead, calamine, oak bark, and corn, and a few manufactured goods to Bristol and Liverpool. An attempt, however, has been made to erect a pier on one of those ridges of rocks called the Weeg; but the scale seems to be too small. Had two piers been made on each of those ridges, which would have afforded the strongest foundations, the harbours would have been handsome, capacious, and convenient. Besides, by cutting a passage across the road to the north of the town, and carrying it along the marsh into the sea, for the Rhyddol just at the angle it makes when it takes a south-westerly course, an excellent back water would have been at hand, and would have always cleared away any bar that might have formed at the mouth of the harbour, and kept it clear from mud. The utility of this measure would soon be discovered, and might, perhaps, be the means of saving the lives of hundreds who have perished in the tempestuous bay of Cardigan, owing to the want of a harbour to make for. There are two markets in every week here, one on Mondays for butter, cheese, fruit, and such like; and the other on Saturdays for meat. The first Monday in November, and that in May, are called Hireing Mondays; in Welsh, Dywllun y Cyflogan, and a vast number of persons meet here to hire servants, by ancient custom.

The coast is grand, and the marine prospect particularly fine. The rocks are lofty, black, and excavated. The layers of slate, in general, dip downwards, forming an angle with the sea of 135°, and the cliffs are, in every respect, of an opposite character to those of limestone, which line the coast of Pembrokeshire and Glamorganshire. The bathing here is well conducted; and, in general, there is a good sandy bottom at all hours of the tide, notwithstanding the beach is wholly composed of pebbles. Of the rivers here, Leland, in his Collectanea, says as follows: “A montibus eisdem (i. e., Elennith) Estuth erumpit et superiores Hereticse regionis partes transpenetrando sub Aberustuth in mare descendit.” Of these Elennith Mountains, which are situated to the east of Ystrad flur Abbey, the proper name is Maelennith. They separate Cardiganshire from Radnorshire, in which latter county was a cantref called by the same name. Powel, in his History of Wales, tells us, that in the year 1206, “there was such an abundance of fish at Aberystwyth, that the like number was never known to have come there in the memory of man before.”

The number of ships registered at the port of Aberystwyth is 210, the tonnage 8,120, and the number of seamen employed 762. The largest vessel is 207 tons,

and the smallest 18. There is about fourteen feet of water on the bar at springtides. The Duke of Leeds, as Lord of the Manor of Vaenor, has a duty of five shillings per ton on coals carried coastwise, which was first granted by King Charles II.

The castle is situated on a rock jutting out into the sea, and has a most romantic appearance. Its situation was well chosen, before the invention of gunpowder made elevated places of more consequence, to protect the town from invasion by sea. Gilbert de Strongbow, son of Richard de Clare, having frequently petitioned of King Henry I. for leave to obtain some lands in Wales, was informed, that he might endeavour to win and possess the lands and inheritance of Cadwgan ap Bleddyn. This he accordingly did, immediately collecting his forces, and having landed in Cardiganshire, reduced the country to subjection with little difficulty. A short time after the death of King Henry I., this Richard de Clare, a nobleman of high birth, and Lord of Cardiganshire, passed from England into Wales, accompanied by Brian of Wallingford, and many of his soldiers. At the passage of Coed Grono, in Monmouthshire, and at the entrance into the wood he dismissed him and his attendants, though much against their will, and proceeded on his journey unarmed; from too great a presumption of security, preceded only by a minstrel and a singer, who played and sung alternately. The Welsh awaiting his arrival, with Jorwerth, brother of Morgan of Caerleon, at their head, and others of his family, rushed upon him unawares from the thickets, and killed him and many of his followers. Gilbert then built two castles, one in the direction of Pembrokeshire, called by Warrington, Dingeraint, perhaps at Cilgerran, and the other at Aberystwith, in the year 1109. It was, of course, the policy of this intruder to embroil the native proprietors with the King of England, that his own house might be aggrandized by conquests and confiscations. About the year 1111, Gruffydd ab Rhys came over from Ireland, where he had been brought up from his childhood. He had not resided more than two years in his native country, before he was accused of aiming at the sovereignty of South Wales. King Henry made several attempts to possess his person; but the vigilance of his frends defeated every conspiracy. In the course of time he was enabled to act on the offensive. The reason he had given of his voyage to South Wales was, that he might see his sister Nest, who had been concubine to King Henry; and after her connection with that monarch was married to Gerald de Windsor, governor of Pembroke Castle. He had retreated to Gruffydd ap Cynan, Prince of North Wales, where he was assured of protection; and the attempt of King Henry to bribe this monarch to violate the rights of hospitality, was made not in vain. He found in this savage, a being contemptible enough to undertake his directions; fortunately, however, they were frustrated by the escape of Gruffydd ap Rhys from his court. He afterwards was so successful in his enterprises against Caermarthen Castle, Gwyr Castle, and one belonging to William de Londres, that several of the chieftains of Cardigan espoused his cause. He suddenly came to Cardigan Iscoed, and laid siege to a fortress which the Earl of Strigyl had erected at Blaen Porth Gwyddan, in that neighbourhood, which he took and burned to the ground. He then laid siege to a fortress called Strath Peithyll, in Cardigan, belonging to the steward of the Earl of Strigyl, which he took by assault, and put the garrison to the sword. Advancing to Plas grug, a fortified mansion on the banks of the Rhydoll, between Aberystwyth and Llanbadarn, he there encamped. Here he ventured to take some cattle for the use of his army out of some fields belonging to Llanbadarn church, and lying within the precincts of that sanctuary, they were regarded as sacred. (See Welsh Chron. p. 179. ) This was an impolitic, though it might be a necessary measure, as it was likely to injure his reputation with his countrymen, by wounding their religious feelings. He then proposed, on the following day, to lay siege to the castle of Aberystwyth. The governor, acquainted with his design, sent to Ystradmeirig Castle for a reinforcement, which arrived in safety during the night time. Ignorant of this, Gruffydd ap Rhys preserved no order among his troops, and confident of success, appeared before he place; but being drawn into an ambuscade, his forces were defeated with much slaughter, and he himself compelled to quit that province. He fought, however, with better fortune in the year 1135: for he took and razed the castle, and slew the Normans and Saxons that were settled in Cardiganshire. Some of those who escaped fled by sea to England. Gruffydd then restored to the Welsh their lands and habitations, of which they had been deprived. This castle was reinstated by Cadwallader, second son to Gruffydd ab Cynan, who married Alice, daughter to Richard, Earl of Clare, Lord of Caredigiaion, or Cardiganshire, and lived at the Castle of Aberystwyth. He had been forced, by the severity of his brother, to reside some time in England, and to solicit the assistance of Henry. As he returned to Wales in the year 1179, under the safe conduct of the King of England, he was murdered; as they were Englishmen, King Henry most justly had the murderers hanged. It was again destroyed by Owen Gwynedd, the eldest son and successor of Gruffydd ap Cynan, on account of his brother’s contumacy. It continued to experience all the vicissitudes of predatory warfare, alternately fortified and overthrown. It was demolished by Maelgwn the usurper, as he feared he could not maintain it against Llewelyn, in 1208, though he had before fortified it. Notwithstanding this, Llewelyn rebuilt and garrisoned it. But in the tenth year of the reign of Edward I. Rhys, the son of Maelgwn and Grufydd Meredydd, took it from Llewelyn, and retained it, till it fell into the hands of the English.

King Edward I. rebuilt it in the year 1277, and returned to England in triumph. But the oppressions exercised by the rulers of the Marches did not permit the peace, concluded between the Prince of Wales, and the King of England, to continue. Among the few successes of the Welsh the year before their subjection to the English monarch, is to be numbered the splendid capture of this newly-erected English fortress. It was afterwards, of course, given up to the crown of England.

In the year 1404 it was taken by Owen Glyndwr, during one of his most vigorous campaigns. Three years after Prince Henry came against it, and took it upon articles; but it was soon after retaken by Owen, through stratagem. In the following year, however, the English again took this castle.

From the year 1408 this castle remained in the undisturbed possession of the English government. William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, in the 35th of Henry VIII. had a grant of the office of Captain of the castle and town of Aberystwyth. It was besieged and taken in the year 1164, by the parliament forces, it having been garrisoned for King Charles. Since that time it has been only a picturesque heap of ruins, the gateway, and several towers in the walls, alone marking its former extent. In front of the gateway is a modern ravelin, thrown up during the siege in 1747; the rest of the building was the work of Edward I. The castle now belongs to Colonel Johnes, M. P. of Havod Uchdryd, who having granted a long lease of it to Mr. Probart, of Shrewsbury, steward to Earl Powis, this gentleman has converted it to a delightful purpose, having made walks in it, in the most judicious places, and it is now the promenade of the fashionables, who retire to Aberystwyth during the summer season.

Aberystwyth derives its name from being built exactly opposite the “Aber,” or mouth of the Ystwyth, i. e., where it falls into the Rheiddol. But before the sea had so much encroached on this shore, a castle had been erected at the mouth of

the Rheiddol. This is thus noted with Castell Mawbn, in Powell’s History of Wales: “The year ensuing (1146) the Lord Rees seeing he was not able to maintain his estate with such lands as the king had appointed him, entered the lands of Roger de Clare, Earle of Gloucester (for by the Earle’s means was his nephew murthered) and wanne the castles of Aberheidol and of the sonnes of Wynyaon, and rased them. And so in short time he brought all Caerdigan to his subjection.”

The old church stood to the west of the town, between the house of Lady Price and the Castle.

The present church was erected by subscription, and dedicated to St. Michael, and a gallery presented to it, bearing the following inscription: “This gallery was erected at the expence of Mrs. Margaret Pryse, A. D. 1790.” The only iucumbent that has been since, is Richard Morgan, of Llanbadarn Vawr. It is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the Vicar of Llanbadarn.

In digging to plant a hedge on Pendinas Hill, just by this town, was found a golden angel of Henry VII. (See Plate XX. Fig. I. )¹

1. A letter on this Subject was addressed by John Meyrick, Esq., to the Antiquarian Society, bearing date May 1, 1802, and appears in the published Reports of that Society.