Cardigan, or in Welsh, Aberteifi, is pleasantly situate near the mouth of the river Teifi, and protected from the sea by a long projecting hill. The town is tolerably well built, and bears a neat aspect, notwithstanding the declivity of its streets, which are connected with the opposite bank of the Teifi by a handsome stone bridge, where large vessels can easily approach its quay. The town may be called large and populous, and regularly built. At the end of the bridge is a chapel, said to be erected on the spot where Giraldus preached the crusade.

The Town-hall, whore the assizes for the county are held twice a year, is a handsome modern edifice, built in the year 1764. In 1793, a new county gaol was erected by Mr. Nash; a very excellent structure, in all respects well adapted for its purpose. Here is also a free grammar school, endowed by Lady Letitia Cornwallis, who married for her second husband, John Morgan, Esq. of this town. The church is a venerable substantial building, with a handsome square tower at the west end. The interior consists of a spacious nave, with an elegant chancel, of considerable older date than the body of the church. It contains no monuments of consequence. Near the eastern end of the church stood the Priory, of which Leland observes, there were only two religious men in it, black monks. It was a cell to the abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey. Its revenues were about 13l. 4s. and 9d. An elegant modern mansion now occupies the site of the house, which in the reign of Charles I. had been the residence of Mrs. Catherine Philips, the celebrated Orinda.

Cardigan Castle, built by Gilbert de Clare, in the reign of Henry the Second, on an eminence near the Teifi, seems to have been an extensive building, and of great importance in the time of our Welsh princes. "In 1176, at Christmas, Prince Rhys, of South Wales, made a great feast at Cardigan Castle, which he caused to be published through England, Scotland, and Ireland, some time previous; accordingly many hundreds of English and Normans came, and were courteously entertained. Among other tokens of their welcome, Rhys made offers of reward to all the bards in Wales who would then attend; and for the better diversion of the company, he provided chairs for them in the hall, in which the bards being seated, were to answer each other in rhyme, and those that did acquit themselves most honourable, were to receive proportionate rewards. In this poetical contest the North Wales bards obtained the victory, with the applause and approbation of the whole company, particularly the minstrels, among whom there was no small strife; but the prince's own servants were observed to be the most expert." This castle, like many more, suffered considerably at different periods, from the vindictive disposition of our princes, and the ambition of provincials. In 1222, we find it in the possession of William Marshall Earl of Pembroke; but in 1231, Maelgon, the son of Maelgon ab Rhys, having by force entered the town, put all the inhabitants to the sword, and then laid siege to the castle, with an intention to destroy it; but the walls appeared so strong, and the gates so well defended, that it seemed impracticable to reduce it for a considerable time, which would have been the case, had he not fortunately been soon after joined by his cousin Owen ab Gruffydd ab Rhys, and some of Prince Llewelyn's most experienced officers, who directed him to break down the bridge over the river Teifi, which enabled him to invest the castle more closely, so as to batter and undermine the fortifications, which soon gave possession of the whole; however, Gilbert Marshall won it back from Davydd ab Llewelyn in 1234.

During the civil wars, Cardigan Castle was garrisoned for the king, and sustained a regular siege; but at last surrendered to the parliament forces under General Langhorne. The ground is now the property of John Bowen, Esq. who has erected an elegant mansion on the site of the keep, the dungeons of which he has converted into cellars. The rest of the remains are not considerable, consisting chiefly of the wall on the river side, and a portion of two towers, by which this part was protected. Though evidently a place of great strength before the use of artillery, it does not seem to have covered much ground. A considerable coasting trade is carried on here; but there is no manufactory for the employ of the poor.

One mile east of Cardigan, at Llan Goedmor, is an ancient monument, consisting of a stone of a prodigious size, half a yard thick, and eight or nine yards in circumference. It is placed inclining; one side on the ground, and the other supported by a pillar of about three feet high. Near it is another of the same kind, but much less. About six yards from it, lies a stone on the ground, and another beyond that, at the same distance.

Meini Cyvrivol, or the numerary stones, near Neuadd, in the neighbourhood of Cardigan, seem to be the remains of some barbarous monument; they are nineteen in number, and lie confusedly on the ground, deriving their names from the vulgar, who cannot easily numerate them.

In the neighbourhood is Llech-y-gawres; that is, the stone of a gigantic woman, which is exceedingly large, placed on four very great pillars, or supporters, about the height of five or six feet, and two others near, pitched end-wise under a top stone, but much lower, so that they bear no part of the weight; also three more adjoining, two of which are large, lying on the ground at each end, and are indisputably ancient British monuments.

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CARDIGAN, supposed to derive its name from Caredig, a chieftain of the province of Dimetia, is the capital of the county, a port, head of a union, and county court district and a municipal borough, with a station on the Whitland and Cardigan branch of the Great Western railway, and 18 ½ miles west from Llandyssil terminal station of the branch of the same line from Carmarthen, 274 from London, 135 from Bristol, 22 from Aberayron, 38 ½ from Aberystwith, 29 from Carmarthen, 17 from Fishguard, 27 from Haverfordwest, 31 from Lampeter, 10 from Newcastle Emlyn and 33 ½ from St. David’s, in the hundred of Troedyraur, petty sessional division of Cardigan, rural deanery of Sub-Aeron, archdeaconry of Cardigan and diocese of St. David’s: the town is about 2 miles from the sea, on the river Teifi, a stone bridge of five arches connecting the counties of Pembroke and Cardigan: and a considerable portion of the town stands on the Pembrokeshire side.

Cardigan, together with Aberystwith, Lampeter and Newcastle Emlyn formerly constituted a parliamentary district, returning one member to Parliament, but under the provisions of the “Redistribution, of Seats Act, 1885” (48 and 49 Vict. c. 23), the representation of the borough was merged in that of the county.

The town was first incorporated by Edw. I. whose charter was confirmed by succeeding monarchs; Hen. VIII. granted the borough a new charter, confirmed by Jas. I. and this remained in force until the passing of the “Municipal Corporations Act, 1835” (5 and 6 Wm. IV. c. 76), by which the Corporation was reconstituted, and now consists of a mayor, four aldermen and twelve councillors, who also act as the Urban Sanitary Authority. The borough has a commission of the peace, and is under the care of the county police force. The town is well supplied with gas by the Cardigan Gas and Coke Company, formed in 1862; the works, situated at Netpool, were erected at a cost of £2,800. The water supply is derived from the Crugefa springs, two miles distant, and is furnished by the Corporation.

The shipping trade, which was once considerable, has of late years greatly diminished. The chief imports are coal, culm, manure and timber; the exports principally bricks and timber. There are several wharfs, and vessels of 250 tons may safely discharge here.

The limits of the port of Cardigan, fixed under the Customs Act of 1846, extend from St. Justinian’s chapel, near St. David’s Head, to New Quay Head. Fishing boats and their implements are distinguished by the letters C. A.

The present church of St. Mary, with the exception of the chancel, which is Norman, dates only from the year 1639; but there can be no doubt that a church formerly existed on the spot in connection with the adjoining priory; the building consists of chancel, nave, porch and an embattled tower containing 6 bells; the chancel is also embattled and decorated with pinnacles, and retains a piscina; the tower has stepped buttresses: the nave was rebuilt in 1702 and the tower in 1745, and in 1870 the interior was entirely redecorated. The organ was erected in 1877, at a cost of £440. There are 430 sittings, 299 being free. By the church is a fine avenue of elm trees. The register dates from the year 1653. The living is a vicarage, gross value £220. net £160, in the gift of the Lord Chancellor, and held since 1876 by the Rev. William Cynog Davies B.D. of St. David’s College, Lampeter, and surrogate.

The Welsh Calvinistic Methodist chapel, Pendre, built in 1760, will seat 750 persons. Mount Zion English Baptist chapel, built in 1880, has 300 sittings. Bethania Welsh Baptist chapel, in William street, erected in 1847, is a building of stone of the Tuscan order, and has 900 sittings. The Capel Mair Welsh Congregational chapel, in St. Mary’s lane, originally built in 1803, rebuilt in 1831 and again rebuilt and enlarged in 1870, at a cost of £1,400, is of blue limestone, with Bath stone dressings, and will seat 700 persons. Hope English Congregational chapel, Pendre, erected in 1837 and rebuilt on a new site in 1880, affords 500 sittings.

A cemetery of 1 ½; acres was formed in 1876, at a cost of £900, and is under the control of a burial board of 9 members.

The Market Hall; erected in 1858, at a cost of nearly £6,000, is a building of stone, the ground floor and basements of which are appropriated to the market, held on Saturday; the upper floor comprises a Guildhall, rooms for the use of the Mechanics’ Institution, founded in 1847, and other premises appropriated to the purposes of the Grammar school, founded and endowed in 1653, and further endowed by Miss Letitia Cornwallis in 1786, which has now (1895) under a scheme approved by the Charity Commissioners been merged in the Intermediate school.

A police station with petty sessional room for county magistrates is now (1895) in course of erection in Prory street.

The principal hotels are the “Black Lion,” in High street and the “Angel” in St. Mary’s street.

The ruins of the castle, originally of great strength and importance, stand near the river bank; it is supposed to have been built about the year 1160 by Gilbert de Clare, demolished by Rhys ap Gryffydd in 1166, rebuilt by Rhys, Prince of South Wales, in 1176, and in 1231 was again attacked and partially destroyed by Maelgwn, grandson of Rhys ap Gryffydd: it was afterwards restored, and during the Civil Wars was held by the Royalists, but was eventually taken and destroyed by the Parliamentary army: a mansion now stands on a portion of its site, and two bastions are the only portions of any consequence now remaining.

A priory of the Benedictine order in connection with and subordinate to the Abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey, formerly stood near the river; on its dissolution in the reign of Henry VIII. there were two monks only and revenues valued at £13; its buildings were afterwards converted into private dwellings. Three miles up the river are the ruins of Cilgerran Castle, which is finely placed on a projecting mass of rock, overhanging the river Teifi: the principal portions now standing are two of the towers and the gate-house, dating probably from the 13th century: the scenery on the river banks between the castle and the town is grandly picturesque.

The area of the parish is 2,200 acres of land and 105 of water; rateable value, £8,211; the population of the parish in 1891 was 2,612. The area of the municipal borough is 4,926 acres; the population in 1891 was 3,449, which included 837 in St. Dogmells parish, Pembrokeshire.

Petty Sessions are held at the Police station, Priory street, every second Tuesday in the month at 11 a.m. The following places are included in the Petty Sessional division:-Aberporth, Blaenporth Fergwig, Llandygwydd, Llangoedmore, Llechryd, Mount & Tremain.

Cardigan Union

Board day, alternate Wednesdays at 11 a.m. at the Board room, Workhouse.

The Union comprises the following parishes in Cardiganshire:-Aberporth, Blaenporth, Llandygwydd, Llangoedmore, Llechryd, Mount St. Mary (Cardigan), Tremain, Verwick & the following in Pembrokeshire, Bayvil, Bridell, Dinas, Eglwyswrw, Kilgerran, Llanfair-Nant-Gwyn, Llanfihangel-Penbedw, Llantood, Llanychlwydog, Manerdivey, Meline, Monington, Moylgrove, Nevern, Newport, St. Dogmells & Whitchurch. The population of the union in 1891 was 16,281: area, 86,852 acres; rateable value, 1895, £68,966.

Workhouse, St. Dogmells, a building of stone, built in 1850 to hold 120 inmates.

Places of Worship, with times of Services

St. Mary’s Church, St. Mary’s street, Rev. William Cynog Davies B.D. vicar; 9.45 a.m. (Welsh) 11.30 a.m. 3.30 (Welsh) & 6.30 p.m.; Wed. & Fri. 7 p.m.

Congregational (Hope), Pendre; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.

Congregational (Welsh) (Capel Mair), St. Mary’s lane, Rev. Thomas J. Morris; 10 a.m. & 6 p.m.

Baptist (Mount Zion), Priory street, Rev. George Hughes; 11 a.m. & 6 p.m.

Baptist (Welsh) (Bethania), William street, Rev. John Williams; 10 a.m. & 6 p.m.

Calvinistic Methodist (Welsh), Pendre; 10 a.m. & 2 & 6 p.m.; Wed. 7 p.m.

Schools

A School Board of 5 members was formed 9th Dec. 1870; Ivor Evans, 3 Green street, clerk to the board; Evan Tucker, 3 St. Mary’s street, school board officer.

The board meets every first Monday in the month at the Council chamber.

Intermediate School, Guildhall, David M. Palmer B.A. headmaster.

Board School, built in 1870, at a cost of £1,700, for 600 scholars; average attendance, 80 boys, 79 girls & 81 infants.

National, built in 1846, at a cost of £1,473, on a site given by the Rev. R. H. W. Miles B.A. sometime rector of Birmingham, Notts, for 220 children; average attendance, 163.

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The county town is a large ancient built place, the principal street is very broad, but the others are narrow. At one end of the broad street is the jail, or penitentiary house, erected at the expense of the county, in the year 1793, by Mr. Nash, the architect. It is a very handsome building, and on a good plan.

It has a chapel, which is kept remarkably clean. The central, or inspection room, is the residence of the jailer. One great disadvantage, however, is the want of a ready supply of water, none being to be had but what is fetched by the keepers from a well at the distance of a quarter of a mile.

Before this new edifice was built, what has since been converted into a poor house was used for that purpose. That building was erected in the year 1773.

Cardigan is a borough town, and was formerly walled round. It was incorporated by King Edward I., and since confirmed by Henry VIII., by a charter, of which the following is a translation: —

Henry the Eighth, by the Grace of God, King of England and France, Defender of the Faith, and Lord of Ireland.

To all whom these presents shall come, greeting, We have looked into Letters Patent of confirmation of Lord Henry the Sixth, in times past King of England, our progenitor, made in these words: Henry by the Grace of God, Kang of England and France, and Lord of Ireland, To whom these present Letters shall come, greeting: We have looked into a patent of our most dear Lord and grandfather, Lord Henry, late King of England, deceased, made in these words: Henry by the Grace of God, King of England and France, and Lord of Ireland, To all to whom these Letters shall come, greeting: We have looked into a Charter of Lord Henry, in times past King of England, our progenitor, in these words: Henry by the Grace of God, King of England, and Lord of Ireland, Lord of Normandy and Aquitaine, and Earl of Anjou, and to his justices, sheriffs, and all ministers of his whole land, greeting: Know ye, as we for us and our heirs have granted to the burgesses of Cardigan, that they and their heirs for ever be quited of toll, passage and pontage, and of all customs, through our whole land: Wherefore we will, and do firmly command, that the aforesaid burghesses of Cardigan for ever be quit of tollage, passage, and pontage, and of all customs, through our whole lands, as is aforesaid: and we do prohibit that not any man shall them unjustly hinder, upon forfeiture of all their chattells: Witness hereof William, Bishop of Caerlisle, and elect of Dublin, Richard Earl of Cornwall, William Earl of Warwick, S. de Segrave, John Marshall, Nicholas de Moles, John de Morienne, Henry de Braybroke, Richard de Argenton, Henry de Capel, and others, Given by the hands of the Reverend Father Ralph, Bishop of Leicester, our Chancellor, at Lambeth, the 2nd day of April, in the fourteenth year of our reign: We have also looked into certain Letters Patents of the same our progenitor, made in these words:

Henry by the Grace of God, King of England, Lord of Ireland, Duke of Normandy and Acquitaine, and Earl of Anjou: And to all his bailiffs and faithful subjects, to whom these presents shall come, greeting: Know ye that we do hold firm and acceptable the provision which our bailiffs of Cardigan, and the commonalty of the same town have made to be divided by the burgesses of the said town, and of assigning, and receiving the curtilidge without the same town, and that this provision may be forceable, firm, and stable: We do by the tenure of these presents for us and our heirs, grant and confirm it: In witness whereof we have caused these our Letters to be made Patents: Witness ourself at Windsor the 23rd day of September, in the thirty-fourth year of our reign: Furthermore, We have looked into certain Letters Patent of Lord Richard the Second, after the conquest, late King of England, made in these words: Richard by the Grace of God, King of England and France, and Lord of Ireland, to all whom these present Letters shall come, greeting: We have looked into a Charter of Lord Edward, late King of England, our great grandfather, in these words: Edward by the Grace of God, King of England, Lord of Ireland, and Duke of Acquitaine, to his archbishops, bishops, abbots, priors, earls, barons, justices, sheriffs, lieutenants, ministers, and to all loyal and faithful people, greeting: Know ye, that we have granted, and by this our Charter confirmed unto our burghesses of Cardigan, all goods, laws, and customs, which our burghesses of Kermerdyn have hitherto reasonably used and enjoyed, as in commons, mines, woods, waters, and all other easements, to the aforesaid town of Cardigan belonging, and always in times past obtained and justly used: We have also granted to the same burghesses, that they may of themselves chuse every year four honest and lawful men, and present them after Easter, to all constables there who for the time shall be in the next hundred, and shall elect and appoint one of these four, our bailiff of our town aforesaid, who shall take oath before the same constable to do, and faithfully to execute those things which appertain to the bailiwicks of the same town: We have, moreover, granted to the burghesses, that they for trespass or forfeiture of their services shall not loose their chattels, and the goods found in the hands of the same servants, or deposited in any place else within our lands by the said servants, so far forth as the said burgesses can sufficiently prove those goods or chattels to be theirs, and that if the said burghesses or any of them died testate, or intestate, within our land and power; that we and our heirs shall not cause their goods to be confiscated, but their heirs shall freely have the same goods, so far forth, as it shall be manifested, that they were the goods of the said deceased, so be that belief and acknowledgement of the said heirs, may be had: Furthermore, we have granted to our said burghesses that none of them shall be sued within our power for the debt of any neighbour of his, unless he shall have been debtor, or surety, and shall not be compelled to pay the debt thereupon, although he may be found to be surety, so long as the debtor hath whereof he may pay that debt: And that all trespasses done within the free borough aforesaid, shall be amended by the judgment of the burghesses of the same, as it formerly hath been used to be done: And also, that if any of them shall have forfeited to any within that borough, he shall not be brought within the gates of our castle, then to be detained for that forfeiture, for be it he can find good and sure pledges to stand to law, unless it be in case of trespass wherein he may not be repligiable, and that although any of them the said burghesses shall in the day time have brought any thing before his neighbour, which afterwards may be safely accused as theft, he shall loose any thing for this but only the thing itself, but shall swear with the oath of his neighbour, that he did not know that that thing was bought of a thief; and that none of them shall be compelled to give bond to his bailiff beyond twelvepence, unless it shall be of his own accord and will, and that no inquisition shall be made of things forfeited by the said burgesses, but by the free tenants of the county, as heretofore it hath been accustomed to be: We have moreover granted to our said burgesses, that they for the time to come, shall be free and quit of performing tollage through our whole land, and for ever: Wherefore we will and firmly command for us and our heirs, that our said burgesses, and their successors, have and hold all the liberties and acquittances, and free customs, before expressed, for ever, without let or hindrance of us, our heirs, bailiffs, or ministers, whatsoever: Of which are witness the Reverend Father Robert, Bishop of Bath and Wells, our Chancellor, William de Valence, our uncle, and others: Given under our hand at Kydwelly, the 9th day of December, in the thirteenth year of our reign: And we also holding firm and stable the said Charter, and all and every thing contained in the same, do for us and our heirs (as much as in us is) like, approve and ratify it, and to the new burgesses of our said town of Cardigan, do by the tenure of these presents, grant and confirm, as the said Charter doth reasonably witness, and as they or any of their ancestors, burgesses of the said town of Cardigan, the liberties and freedoms aforesaid, have and enjoy, and all and singular the things in the said Charter contained; to have and to hold, as they have been accustomed, in witness of which things we have caused these our Letters to be made Patents: Witness ourself at Westminster, the 18th day of February, in the ninth year of our reign: We have also looked into a certain Charter of the same Lord Richard, made in these words: Richard by the Grace of God, King of England and France, and Lord of Ireland, to his archbishops, bishops, abbots, priors, dukes, earls, barons, justices, sheriffs, lieutenants, ministers, and to all others his bailiffs and faithful people, greeting: Know ye that we of our special grace, by the assent of our councel, in consideration of the great losses and oppressions, which our beloved liege people, the burgesses of our town of Cardigan, in South Wales, very often before these times, have suffered by the malice of the Welsh: Had for us and our heirs (as much as in as is) granted to the said burgesses, and their successors, as well for the help and relief of our said town, as for the profit, peace, and quiet of our said burgesses of the same town, that they, their heirs and successors, shall not at all be convicted or adjudged in the counties of Cardigan and Carmarthen, nor in sessions, nor in any other county through all Wales, in any appeals or indictments of felonies, rights, injuries, trespasses, common wrongs, or demands, whatsoever, imposed or to be imposed upon them, nor in any actions personal, within the counties of Cardigan or Carmarthen aforesaid arising, or else where in these parts, but by English burgesses, and true English men, by the means which of late, by our Letters Patents, we have granted to our said town of Carmarthen, considering further in what manner our most dear Lord and grandfather Edward, deceased, by his Letters Patent had granted to the same burgesses of Cardigan, that they of themselves might every year chuse four honest and lawful men, and after the feast of Easter, present them to our constable there, who for the time shall be in the next hundred, and who shall choose, ordain, and appoint, one of these four bailiffs of our said town of Cardigan, who should take oath before our constable to do, and faithfully execute those things, which should appertain to the office of bailiff of our same town of Cardigan, as in the same Letters which we have lately confirmed more fully is contained: We have furthermore granted to our said burgesses, of our said town of Cardigan, and all their successors, at their supplications, that they for the future shall and may chuse of themselves, every year, four honest and lawful men, and present them on Monday next, after the feast of St. Michael, to our constable there, for the time being, who shall choose and appoint one of those four bailiff of our said town of Cardigan, who shall take oath before our said constable to do and faithfully execute those things which shall appertain to the office of bailiff for our said town of Cardigan for ever; wherefore we will, and do firmly command, for us and our heirs, that the aforesaid burgesses of our said town of Cardigan, their heirs and successors, shall in no wise be convicted, nor adjudged in the said counties of Cardigan and Carmarthen, nor in sessions, nor in any other county by any Welshman, in any appeals, or indictments of felony, rights, injuries, trespasses, false accusations, or any demands imposed, or to be imposed upon them; nor in any actions personal within the counties of Cardigan and Carmarthen aforesaid, arising or elsewhere, in those parts, save only by English burgesses, and true English men; and that they for the time to come to chuse every year four lawful and honest men, on Monday next, after the feast of St. Michael, and present them to our constable there, who shall be for the time elect, and appoint one of those four bailiffs of our said town of Cardigan, who shall take oath before the said constable, to do and faithfully to execute those things which do appertain to the office of bailiff of our said town of Cardigan as aforesaid, and that they fully enjoy and use those liberties for ever: Thereof witness the Rev. W. Archbishop of Canterbury, Primate of all England; Thomas, Archbishop of York, Primate of England, our Chancellor; R. of London; W. of Winchester; Jef. Salisbury, our four Bishops; John of Aquitaine and Lancaster, Edmund of York, Dukes, our most dear uncles; Thomas of Holland Earl of Kent, John Holland Earl of Huntington, our Chamberlain; Thomas de Moubray, Earl of Nottingham, Marshal of England; William de Montacute, Earl of Salisbury; Henry Piercey, Earl of Northumberland; John Devereux, Steward of our Household; Mr. Edmund Stafford, Keeper of our Privy Seal, and others: Given under our hands at Westminster, the 6th day of December, in the fifteenth year of our reign: We have moreover looked into a certain other Charter of the same King Richard likewise, made in these words: Richard by the Grace of God, King of England and France, and Lord of Ireland, To all his archbishops, bishops, abbots, priors, dukes, earls, barons, justices, sheriffs, lieutenants, ministers, and to all bailiffs, and faithful people, greeting, Know ye that we of our special grace, by the assent of our council, at the supplication of our beloved liege people, the burgesses of our town of Cardigan in South Wales, have granted, and by this our Charter confirmed, for us and our heirs (as much as in us is) as well for our profit, as for the commodity of our burgesses of our said town, and of the inhabitants of the county of Cardigan, that the county sessions, and small sessions of the same county shall, for the future, be held in our said county of Cardigan; and that the great sessions of our said county shall be held within the said county, or some certain place, by our justices of South Wales, for the time being, to be limited and appointed for things and deeds arising within the said county of Cardigan, and the conferies of the same for ever; so that the county, and the sessions of the same county, in former times held at our town of Carmarthen, or any Charters or Letters Patent made to the contrary, notwithstanding: And furthermore, as well for the help and relief of our said town of Cardigan, and for the profit, peace, and quiet, of the said burgesses, we, of our special grace, have granted and confirmed, for us and our said heirs, (as much as in us is) to the said burgesses and their successors for ever, that they shall freely of themselves chuse one mayor and two bailiffs, once in every year, to wit, on Monday next after the feast of St. Michael, who so soon as they shall be chosen to be mayor and bailiffs, shall duly do and exercise that which belongeth to the office of mayor and bailiffs, within the said town of Cardigan, and the borough of the same, having first taken oath before our chamberlain of South Wales, who shall for the time, or his lieutenants, there will and faithfully to do and perform those offices, and also that they may name of themselves every year by choice of our said chamberlain, or of the lieutenant, one coroner, at the day aforesaid, who, upon his oath to be made before our said chamberlain, or his lieutenant, shall do and exercise that which appertaineth to the office of coroner, within the town of Cardigan, and the borough aforesaid; so that we, nor our heirs, may in no manner become charged to the mayor, balls, and coroner aforesaid, or other our ministers, these otherwise, nor in other manner than formerly we have been charged; and that the said burgesses, and their successors for ever, have the return of all our writs, and of all the suits of our heirs, in whatsoever pleas, real or personal, and in all other cases of things and deeds within the said town of Cardigan, and borough aforesaid, arising, so that no escheator, sheriff, nor bailiffs, or minister of us, or our heirs, do enter, nor in any thing meddle within the town and borough aforesaid, to do any execution there; willing and granting furthermore, for us and our said heirs, that our Exchequer of the said county of Cardigan, and the receipts of the same, together with our seals of the same Exchequer, shall for the future, for ever, be and remain within our castle of Cardigan: Wherefore we will and firmly command, for us and our said heirs, that the said burgesses and their successors, shall and may have and hold, all and singular the liberties and franchises, and privileges, aforesaid, and them, and every of them, fully, peaceably, and quietly, enjoy and use for ever, as aforesaid: Those witness, the Rev. Father W. of Canterbury, Primate of all England; Thomas of York, Primate of England; our Chancellor; Archbishops of London; W. of Winchester; Earl of Exeter, Keeper of our Privy Seal; Edmund of York, Thomas of Gloucester, Dukes, our most dear uncles; Henry of Derby, Earl of Rutland, R. of Arundel, Thomas of Warwick, Thomas of Nottingham, and Marshall of England, Earls; Thomas of Piercey, Steward of our Household, and others: Given under our hand, at the Castle of Windsor, the 22nd of September, in the nineteenth year of our reign: And we the grants, confirmation, liberties, franchises, quittances, and privileges aforesaid, and all and singular things in the Charters and Letters aforesaid contained, do hold firmly, and the same for us and our heirs, (as much as in us is) do allow and approve acceptable, and by the tenure of these presents, to grant and confirm to the now burgesses of our said town of Cardigan, as the Charters and Letters aforesaid, do reasonably testify: And as they the said burgesses, and their predecessors and ancestors, burgesses of the same town of Cardigan, the liberties, quittances, franchises, and privileges aforesaid, have hitherto reasonably used and enjoyed; in witness of which thing we have caused these our Letters to be made Patents: Witness ourselves at Westminster the 30th day of October, in the first year of our reign: And we holding firm and stable the grants, liberties, quittances, franchises, and privileges aforesaid, at all revoked, do, by the assent of our lords spiritual and temporal, and of the commons of our realm of England, being in our parliament holden at Westminster, in the first year of our reign, allow, approve, and ratify the same, and to the now burgesses of the said town of Cardigan, do confirm, as the Charters and Letters aforesaid, do reasonably testify; and as the said burgesses, and their predecessors, the liberties, quittances, franchises, and privileges aforesaid, have hitherto reasonably used and enjoyed; in witness of which thing we have caused these our Letters to be made Patents: Witness ourselves as Westminster, the 20th day of May, in the fourth year of our reign: And we the said Letters, and all and singular the liberties, quittances, franchises, and privileges, in the said Letters contained and specified, having firm and stable the same for us and our heirs (as much as in us is) do allow of and approve, and do ratify and confirm by the tenor of these presents, to our well-beloved, the now burgesses of our said town of Cardigan, and their successors, as the Letters aforesaid do reasonably ratify, and the said burgesses and their predecessor and ancestors, burgesses of the same town, the liberties, quittances, franchises, and privileges aforesaid, have hitherto reasonably used and enjoyed, in witness of which thing we have caused these our Letters to be made Patents: Witness ourself at Westmintser, the 25th day of October, in the nineteenth year of our reign.

Enrolled at the Great Sessions of our Sovereign Lord the King, for the County of Cardigan, held at Cardigan, on Monday, to wit, the 18th Day of September, in the four and thirtieth Year of the Reign of King Henry the Eighth.

Stephen Gardener, William Claybrooke, Clerks.

Examined by Mr. and Brooke, Justice.

The Corporation seal represents an antique castle, triple towered and embattled; legend Sigillum commune Burgensium Cardigan; and on the reverse is a ship under sail; legend, Anchora Spei Cseretic est in te Domine.

The town hall where the assizes are held is a handsome structure, and was raised in the year 1764.

Here is also a free grammar school: it was endowed sometime between the years 1760 and 1770, by Lady Laetitia Cornwallis of Abermarles, in Caermarthenshire, whose second husband was John Morgan, Esq., of Cardigan. She left by her will a sum of money also to purchase the sacramental plate of St. Mary’s, Cardigan, which is very handsome, and was purchased in the year 1782 by Loveden Loveden, Esq., her trustee.

In the reign of Henry VII. the lordships, castle, town, and county of Cardigan, were given to Catherine of Spain, as part of her dower.

The trade of this town is very considerable, and the number of vessels registered at its port is 292, their tonnage 10,097, and the number of seamen employed is 929. The largest vessel is 232 tons, and the smallest 15. The large one, however, is employed in the West India trade.

Cardigan bar on spring tides has on it twenty-two feet of water. An excellent harbour might be made at Pen yr Ergyd, by running a pier to the S. W., which might be done for about £1,000. A buoy is much wanted on the bar, or else a house or turret on the hill, in a line with Pen yr Ergyd, and the bar, as the present land-marks are of very little use; for in foggy or dark weather they are not to be perceived, being at so great a distance from the bar. Up the river the king’s wear of Cilgerran lies. The bridge is very ancient, though not so high up the river as the original one. It consists of seven arches. This river is remarkable for the number of coracles on it. These curious vessels are constructed of willow twigs in the manner of basket work, and are covered with a raw hide, or canvas, pitched in such a manner as to prevent leaking. They are generally five feet and a half long, and four broad, their bottom is a little rounded, and their shape exactly oval. A seat crosses just above the centre toward the broad end. The men paddle them with one hand, and fish with the other, and when their work is finished, bring home their boats with them on their backs. These coracles are specimens of the original British navigation, according to Caesar, who made them turn to a good account in his Spanish expedition against Pompey; for Caesar’s bridges over the Segre, being hurried away by the torrent, he transported his legions across it in vessels of this construction.

“Imperat militibus Caesar ut naves faciant cujus generis eum superioribus annis usus Britanniae docuerat. Carinae primum ac statumina ex levi materia fiebant: reliquum corpus navium viminibus contextum coriis integebatur.” Bell. civ. li b. I.

Pliny, in his account of Britain, speaks of a six-days’ navigation in the open sea with these coracles. “Timaeus historicus a Britannia introrsus, sex diarum navigatione abesse dicit Insulam Mictim in qua candidum plumbum proveniat. Ad eam Britannos vilitibus navigiis coris circumsutis navigare. Plin. Hist. Nat. I. iv. c. 16.

Cardigan gives the title of Earl to an English nobleman. Thomas Brudenel, Baron Brudenel of Stoughton, was created Earl of Cardigan, by Charles II., April 26th, 1661, and succeeded in 1663 by his son Robert, who was succeeded in 1703 by his grandson George, and he in 1732 by his son George, who having married Mary, youngest daughter of the Duke of Montague, after the death of his father-in-law, assumed the name and arms of Montague, and was in 1766 created Duke of Montague, and Marquis Monthermer.

Cardigan was frequently the scene of warfare and bloodshed, and is thus spoken of by Einiawn ab Gwgawn the bard of Prince Llewelyn ab Jorwerth, and who flourished between the year 1200 and 1260, in a poem to his patron,

“Yn Aberteivi tew oedd wrain uch ben,

Oni doed perchen parchus gyvrain.”

(In Abertivi thick were the ravens over head, so as to cover the owner of the honourable conflict of spears.)

Of the castle of Cardigan, once a very strong edifice, all that now remains of it are two towers and the wall. It is situated close to the edge of the river Teivy, and near the bridge. When the Normans, flushed with their success in Glamorganshire, and the Flemings in Pembrokeshire, spread themselves over the western coast of Wales, they erected a fort to guard this river. In the year 1091 Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, did homage to King William II. of England, for Cardigan. In the year 1093 Cadwgan ap Bleddyn, indignant at this intrusion, with the assistance of Gruffydd ap Cynan, fell desperately on these new settlers, routed their forces in several engagements, and dismantled all the castles they had built in this part of Wales, except two. But they were not uniformly successful, and were at length obliged to make peace, and accede to the claims of the invaders, by relinquishing a part of their own inheritances. In this arrangement the town and castle of Cardigan remained with Cadwgan ap Bleddyn. In the Christmas of 1107 Cadwgan ap Bleddyn gave a festival, and Eistethvor to the Bards; which, when we consider the magnitude of the preparations, the nature of the ceremonies, the number and quality of the guests, and the serious consequences which ensued, was probably not inferior in splendour to that subsequently given by Rhys ap Gruffyth, and seems to indicate that at that time the castle must have been of some magnitude. At this banquet Bleddyn’s son Owain fell in love with Neot the daughter of Rhys ab Tewdwr, then wife of Gerald constable of Pembroke castle, and found means to carry her off. This act obliged him and his father to fly to Ireland. But the father proving his innocence, returned, and the son followed after secretly. Owain was killed by Gerald, whom he had injured, in the year 1114.

In the year 1136 Gruffydd, in concert with Owain and Cadwaladr, the sons of Grufydd ab Cynan, made a successful irruption into South Wales, and returned with large booty. In this expedition they had a conflict with the Flemish, Normans, and English, near Cardigan, in which the latter were defeated, and lost (according to Geraldus Cambrensis) three thousand men. Cynon and Hywel, the sons of Owen Gwynedd, won Cardigan castle from the Flemings on the 9th of September, 1146, so that it must have been retaken by the Flemings after the battle above mentioned. This is noticed by Cynddelw, who says,

“Rhag Tewi, yn tori twr maen

Teyrn glyw terwyn.”

(On the Teivi, destroying a stone tower of a sovereign prince.)

Sir Meredyth ab Gruffydd, Knt., is mentioned in old pedigrees as Lord of Cardigan. He lived at Henllys in Pembrokeshire, and died in the year 1153. He ruled South Wales, and gave his daughter in marriage to the Lord Rhys.

In the year 1157, Roger Earl of Clare, having obtained a grant from King Henry of England of such lands in Wales as he could win, came with a great army to Cardigan, and fortified the castle of Dyvy, which Rhys Prince of South Wales destroyed in the following year in revenge of the death of his nephew, Einion, who was murdered by his servant Walter ab Llywarch, at the instigation of Clare Earl of Gloucester. On the return of King Henry to England, in the year 1165, after his unsuccessful attempts against the Welsh, Prince Rhys availing himself of his retreat, laid siege to the castle of Aberteifi, and won it, and levelled it to the ground¹; it was, however, rebuilt before the year 1177, which time Prince Rhys held a most magnificent feast at Christmas in his castle of Aberteifi, which is thus recorded in the Welsh Chronicle: “This yeare the Lord Rees Prince of South Wales made a great feast at Christmas in the castell of Aberteivi, which feast he caused to be proclaimed through all Brytaine long before, and thither came manie strangers, which were honourablie received, and worthilie entertained, so that no man departed discontented. And among deeds of armes, and other shewes, Rees caused all the poetes of Wales (which are makers of songs, and recorders of gentlemen’s petegrees and armes, of whom everie one is intituled by the name of Bardh, in Latine Bardus) to come thither, and provided chaires to be set in his hall, where they should dispute together, to trie their cunning, and gift in their faculties, where great rewards and rich gifts were appointed for the overcomers; amongst whome they of North Wales won the price, and among the musicians Reese’s own household men were counted best.”

In the year 1188 the same Lord Rhees entertained Archbishop Baldwin, and Silvester de Barry, Archdeacon of Brecknock (generally called Cambrensis), with their followers, when they came to preach the crusade through Wales, at the priory of St. Dogmael’s, and the day following at his own castle of Cardigan. Powel says in page 241, “This lord (Rhys) was a faire and comlie person, honest and just of conditions, beloved of his friends, and feared of his foes, against whom (especiallie the Flemings) he atchieved diverse victories.” He had two sons, Maelgwn and Gruffydd. The Welsh Chronicle goes on to say, “After the death of Rees, Gruffyth his sonne subdued all the countrie to himselfe and enjoyed it in peace, until Maelgon his brother (whom his father had disinherited) made a league with Gwenwynwyn, the sonne of Owen Cyvelioc Lord of Powis, who both together levied a number of men, and came suddenlie upon Gruffyth at Aberystwyth, and slaieng a great number of his men, tooke his prisoner, and so recovered all the countrie of Caerdigan and the Castell. In the year 1200 Maelgon ap Rees, seeing he could not well keepe Aberteivi, of verie spite to his brother, and hatred to his countrie, sold it to the Englishmen for a small summe of monie, being the keie and locke of all Wales. In 1215 the garrison which kept the castell of Aberteivi delivered the same unto Llewelyn, Prince of North Wales, upon St. Stephen’s daie, who in the following yeare went to Aberteivi to make an agreement betwixt Maelgon and Rees Vachan, sonnes to Prince Rees, on the one side, and their nephews, young Rees, and his brother Owen, the sonnes of Gruffyth ap Rees, on the other side, where he divided South Wales betwixt them. The castell of Aberteivi fell to the lot of Owen, who did not long enjoy his newly acquired possessions, for in the year 1220 Llewelyn, Prince of North Wales” (this was Llewelyn ap Jorwerth) “led an army to Pembroke against the Flemings, who contrarie to their oth, and league, had taken the castell of Aberteivi, which castell the prince wanne, and destroied, putting the garrison to the sword.” This castle came afterwards into the hands of William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, who landing at Saint David’s from Ireland, with a powerful army, laid siege to the castle of Aberteivi, and took it A. D. 1223. After the death of the Earl in 1231, it reverted to the Welsh. “Maelgon, the sonne of Maelgon ap Rees, laid siege to Aberteivi, and got the towne, and destroied it to the castell gates, slaieng all the inhabitants. And shortlie after he returned with his coozen Owen, sonne to Gruffyth ap Rees, with certaine of the prince’s captains, and brake down the bridge upon the river Teivy, and laid siege to the castell, and with engines and mines threw down the same, and then returned home with much honor.” It seems to have laid in ruins for the next nine years, till the accession of David ap Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, when Gilbert Marshall, presuming on the instability of a new reign and a weaker prince, came with an army and possessed himself of this hold, protecting it with new, and more favourable works. As from this period the Welch Chronicle takes no farther notice of this castle, it probably remained in the undisturbed possession of the English. What we now see is probably the remains of the fortifications erected by Gilbert Marshall, which were built with a degree of strength and durability adapted to the plan of military operations that had now developed itself, and was carried to maturity under the next princes of England and Wales.

Speed gives us an old print of this castle, dated 1610, in which are delineated seven towers, six square and one round; but as what remain are round towers, I suspect his print is erroneous. Speaking of the castle he says, ‘ ‘ The walls take the advantage of the rising rocks, and circulate the town even round about. The castle is higher built upon a rocke, both spacious and faire, had not stormes impaired her beauty, and time left her carcase a very anatomie. The walles range as thou seest, and are indifferent for repaire, having three ways for entrance, and containe in compasse six hundred and fourscore passes: whose position for latitude is set in the degree 52. 33 minutes from the North pole, and for longitude from the first West point by Mercator, in the degree 15, and 10 minutes.”

The castle and the ground contained within its outer walls (called the Castlegreen) now belong to John Bowen, Esq., who is erecting a house on the scite of the keep, the dungeons now serving as his cellars.

This busy and warlike town but ill accorded with the solitary and retired dispositions of the monastic order. It contained only one small

PRIORY,

which formerly stood near the river side, and near the eastern end of the church. The inhabitants were black monks of the Benedictine order, and it was a cell to the abbey of Chertsey in Surry. Leland says, “Ther is a priori in Cairdigan toune, but in hit was but a II religiose menne, Black Monkes. It stondith yet and is a celle unto Chertsey.” And in his Collectanea he again says, “Cardigan cella de Cerotesey.” It was afterwards granted as part of the possessions of Chertsey, to Bisham Abbey, in the same county. The next interesting circumstance connected with this building is that it belonged to James Philips, Esq., whose wife, from her poetical effusion, has rendered it celebrated. She was bom in London in 1631, was married to Mr. Philips in 1647, and died in June, 1664. The poetical name of Catherine Philips was Orinda, and her poems have been several times printed. She was also the writer of a volume of letters, entitled, “Letters from Orinda to Poliarchus.” Poliarchus was Sir Charles Cotterell, her early, constant, and estimable friend. Under his tuition, while youth and a single life admitted, an exclusive devotion to the pursuit of literary taste; she acquired the Italian language. When she afterwards turned the powers of a mind, fitted as well to encounter the business of life, as to repose in intellectual luxury, towards the object of retrieving her husband’s embarrassments; the powerful interest of Sir Charles Cotterell assisted those endeavours, which were first animated by her affection, and uniformly prosecuted by her good sense and prudence. Her death was graced by an elegiac poem from the pen of Cowley, a mark of attention that would confer lustre on any character, though, according to his usual taste, the aim of the verse seems rather to be to display the author’s power of saying good things, than to utter that language which affects the hearts of others, in proportion as it seems to flow from real feeling. He likewise wrote an ode on Orinda’s Poems, in which he makes Merlin prophecy the coming of Orinda: at which flattery Matthew Prior glances sarcastically in his epilogue to Mrs. Manley’s Lucius. Mrs. Catherine Philips was particularly courted by those of the higher circles, who considered the patronage, and in some measure the possession, of literary merit as an indispensable appendage of their station. The Earl of Roscommon celebrated Orinda in an imitation, drawn from the twenty-second Ode of the first book of Horace. He likewise wrote a prologue to her tragedy of Pompey, translated freely from the French of Corneille, and acted at the theatre in Dublin. Its representation was honoured with the presence of the Lord Lieutenant on the first night. The Earl of Dorset, and Waller, are said to have assisted her in this translation. Yet, though countenanced by such talents and influence, she could scarcely consent to its being brought upon the stage. Indeed, she seems on all occasions to have shunned that publicity which a ready pen is generally too eager to court. The publication of a surreptitious edition of her poems affected her so much as to produce a severe fit of illness. The reason of her tragedy being produced in Ireland was, that she was under the necessity of quitting her retirement at Cardigan, and visiting that country, in the prosecution of her husband’s affairs. She was received with attention there, as in England, by persons of the first distinction, particularly by the Duke of Ormond, as well as by Roscommon, who was then resident in Dublin, in consequence of a dispute about part of his estate. It was principally at the suggestion of this latter nobleman, that she undertook her dramatic task. More than forty years after her death Dr. King enumerated this lady in the list of elegant female writers, in his Art of Love. He classes her with the wife of Sir George Chudleigh, a light of his own age; and the association seems not to have been injudicious. They both printed poems, which were received in a splendid era of our poetry. The priory was her favourite residence before she went to Ireland; though anxiety made it appear to her as a melancholy retirement after her return. To wear off gloomy impressions she visited London, where she caught the small-pox and died. She left behind her only one daughter, who married into the Wogan family in Pembrokeshire.

The Pedigree of this Family, as appears by the old Records, is as follows:

In a MS.² entitled, “A true Character of the Deportment for those eighteen years last past, of the principal Gentry within the Counties of Caermarthen, Pembroke, and Cardigan, in South Wales,” written about the year 1661, is the following, “James Philips, one that had the fortune to be in with all tymes, yet thrived by none, an argument that covetousness (the root of all evil) was not the motive for him to undertake employments, his genius is to undertake publique affayres, regarding some tymes more the employment than the authority from whom he received the same. He hath done much good, and is ill rewarded by those he deserved most of.”

By the proceedings in Chancery in Lloyd and Johns, it appears, that in 1744 Thomas Pryse, Esq., being possessed of the Gogerthan and Priory estates, devised the same by will to trustees for a long term of years, upon trust, to sell for payment of debts, and subject thereto to his son John Pugh Pryse for life, and afterwards intailed them strictly upon his issue. Thomas Pryse died in June, 1745, leaving John Pugh Pryse an infant, his only child, and leaving a widow, who afterwards married Mr. John Lloyd. John Pugh Pryse died a bachelor in 1774, and after his death the Priory estate was sold for the residue of the term of seven hundred years to Thomas Johnes, Esq., the father of the present Mr. Johnes, by whom the estate came into this family.

An elegant fabric was erected on the site of the old ruins about eight years ago, when the grounds belonging to it, which formerly lay exposed, were surrounded by a handsome wall, with neat doors, in what is generally termed the gothic taste, to correspond with the house.

When a cell to Chertsey this Priory was valued at £13 4s. 9d.

There are some good private houses in Cardigan, among others those of Colonel Owen Lloyd, of Abertrinant, and Major James Bowen, are the most conspicuous.

The markets are held here on Saturdays.

THE CHURCH

is dedicated to the Virgin Mary; and is a venerable handsome building, consisting of a spacious nave, with a noble tower at its western end, and a porch on its south side. But the most elegant, and most ancient part, is its chancel, which is turreted, and strengthened by buttresses ornamented with light gothic pinnacles, and its windows of the ornamented pointed arch. The entrance of the porch is a flattened pointed arch, sometimes termed the gothic ellipse; and an inscription above it seems to indicate the date of its erection; it is as follows:-“Janson Levis Arthur Griffiths church wardens anno 1639.” Above this has been placed the following: “the body of this church was rebuilt in the years 1702 and 3. Hugh Thomas and Thomas Bevan church wardens.”

Over the western door of the tower is also an inscription, but it is now so entirely obliterated as to be altogether unintelligible. It probably relates to the building of the tower, which fell down in the year 1705; and was rebuilt chiefly at the expense of the gentlemen of the county, and those connected with it. It is a vicarage, and in the gift of the Lord Chancellor.

In the eastern window are some small remains of painted glass, among which may be discerned the arms of Edgar Atheling, and some others; a rose, a hand, wings, and six or seven heads of angels: formerly this window was wholly of painted glass. Eight grotesque heads support the rafters of the roof (See Pl. II., Fig. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8) and there were formerly six figures of men and women holding shields carved in wood, leaning by the wall of the chancel, which originally perhaps supported the roof. There is a fine pointed arch, the upper part of a door in the northern wall, and a niche not far from it. (See Pl. II. Fig. 10 and 11. ) In the south wall of the chance is an ornamented niche, very elegant and light. A screen over the altar, of the Ionic order, has been erected, but by no means corresponds with the rest of the building. The font is very much carved, and in shape octagonal, but much more modern than most in this county. (See Pl. II. Fig. 9) On the south side of the nave, on a black mural monument, is the following

“Underneath lyeth the body of Mrs. Dorothy Ashenvel who departed this life Jan. the 13th 1763 aged 52. Also The Body of Mrs. Anne Lilly who departed this life February 12th 1766 aged 57. Also The Body of Elizabeth Daughter of the said Mrs. Lilly and Wife of Mr. John Richds of this town, who departed this life Octr the 5th 1767 aged 29.”

Next to this monument is the door from the porch, and beyond that the poor box, over which is a board, with the following inscription painted on it: —

“This poor Box was broke and robbed of all yt had been put in by pious benefactors from Easter 1742 to Easter 1743. They have also stolen and dissembled also, and have put it even amongst their own stuff: Therefore ye children of Israel could not stand before their enemies, but turned their backs before their enemies, because they were accursed, neither will I be with you any more, except ye destroy ye accursed from amongst you. Josh: c. 7, ver. 11, 12. He that hath pity on the poor lendeth unto the Lord, and look, what he layeth out, it shall be paid him again.

Between this board and the pulpit, on a black marble monument, is the following inscription: —

“Near this place lieth interr’d the Body of Elizabeth late Wife to David Jones of this town Alderman, and Daughter of Owen Picton Clark, who exchanged this life for a better ye 20th day of December Anno Domi 1703 Aged 45 years. Also ye body of ye above said David Jones deceased the 29th Day of April Anno Domini 1707 Aged 33 years.”

In the chancel, on a flat stone, upon the ground, and on the north side the altar, is inscribed: —

On the north side of the altar is another flat tombstone, but being covered by the chest, and almost obliterated, it was impossible to make out the inscription. On the north side of the nave, on a large board, is painted the following: —

The tower of

St. Mary’s Church in

Cardigan, with five large bells,

chimes, and clock therein, fell down

the 11th Aug. 1705. In 1709 a brief under

the great seal was granted for rebuilding it, but no

more than £400 was received for that purpose from

the Undertaker. 12th April 1711, the foundation of the

new Tower was laid, and the building carried on to 25 of

Oct. 1711, and being then 40 feet high above ground, and

the £400 fund exhausted, the work was stopped 14th Aug.

1745; a subscription for carrying on the building was

chiefly therewith, but partly at the expence of ye Parishones carried on and finished, Anno 1748. The Rev. Wm. Powell, A. M. Clerk, and the above named John Morgan, Esq. church Wardens.

The tower being rebuilt, the two gentlemen undemamed presented the parish with the sums to their respective names subjoined, towards recasting and setting up the bells, viz.

John Lloyd, Esq. of Peterwell, then representative in Parliament for the county of Cardigan 100 0 0 John Symmons, Esq. of Llanstinan, then the representative in Parliament for this borough.. 20 0 0

Next to this is another board containing the names of those persons whose liberality induced them to contribute towards erectin the present church in 1703. It is as follows: —

The

names of the pious

Benefactors who contributed

to ye rebuilding of this

Church in ye years 1702 and 1703.

In memory of the pious Benefactors above-named, this table was set up at the sole charge of John Picton, Gent.

Near to this is a neat small marble monument to the memory of a gentleman who was travelling through Wales, and suddenly died in this town. It is an ellipse of black marble, and on it a white urn, on which is inscribed the following: —

To the Memory of

Edw. Savage

late of London

who departed this life 30th of Nov. 1802

Aged 40 years.Stolen from Fore bears

The present incumbent is the Rev. John Evans.

Mathaiarn, one of the sons of Brychan, a saint who lived in the middle of the fifth century, is recorded to have been buried in Cardigan.

In the churchyard are several monuments; and there is a stone building erected near the south-east angle of the church, in which are two arches, each containing a handsome marble monument. That on the south side has a shield or. a chief az. impaling quarterly, first and fourth, sa. on a fesse or. three crows between fourteen pears arg.; second and third arg. a chev. sable between three ravens proper; and under this is the following inscription: —

“Underneath lye interr’d the remains of Mary eldest daughter of Sr Francis Cornwallis of Abermarless in the County of Carmarthen Knight and late Wife of John Morgan of this Town, Esq. who caused this monument to be erected in Testimony of his just regard to the Memory of a wife of whose sincere affection tenderness and fidelity he had upwards of thirty years experience. She departed this life the 19th of Nov. 1741. Aged 70 years.”

“Here also lye the Remains of the above John Morgan who dyed the 21st of April 1763 aged 77 years.”

On the north side, the inscription is almost obliterated: all that can now be made out is, “Underneath lye interred the Body of Mary Lloyd wife of David Lloyd Surgeon Town.”

1. In the life of Giraldus de Barri it is mentioned that, “by order from King Henry, Rhys ap Gruffyth was summoned to hold a conference with Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, and Ranulf de Glanville, Chief Justice of England, at Hereford. When seated at dinner in the house of William de Vere, Bishop of that see, and Walter, son of Robert, a noble baron, both of whom were descended from the family of Clare; Giraldus, the archdeacon, approached the table, and standing before them, thus facetiously addressed himself to Prince Rhys: ‘ Your may congratulate yourself, Rhys, on being now seated between two of the Clare family, and whose inheritance you possess ’: for at that time he held all Cardiganshire, which he had recovered from Roger Earl of Clare.” (See Hoare’s Life of Geraldus de Barri.
2. See Cambrian Register for 1795, p. 167.