MONMOUTHSHIRE is an English county, bordering on South Wales, and is bounded to the north and north-east by Herefordshire, the river Monnow forming a portion of the boundary, on the east by the Wye, dividing it from Herefordshire and Gloucestershire, on the south by the estuary of the Severn, and on the west by the Rumney, dividing it from Brecknockshire and Glamorganshire; in shape it approaches a rectangle, having an average breadth from east to west of about 30 miles, and length from north to south of about 26 miles. The administrative county comprises 349,552 statute acres, and had a population in 1861 of 174,633; in 1871, 195,448; in 1881, 211,276; in 1891, 248,054; and in 1901 of 298,078, of whom 153,384 were males and 144,692 females. The number of houses were:-inhabited, 55,744; uninhabited, 3,285, including 1,416 in general occupation for business or other purposes; and building, 527. The area of the ancient or geographical county is 341,688 acres; the population in 1901 was 292,317.

The population of the administrative county and county borough of Newport in 1911 was 395,719, viz.:-males, 207,429, and females, 188,290.

It was part of the island occupied by the Romans, and formed part of the division called Britannia Secunda; several remains prove that the Second Legion occupied this part, and the Roman remains are so frequent as to lead to the belief that the beauty of the scenery and richness of the soil had induced many of the Romans to erect villas here. After the departure of the Romans it was the scene of frequent encounters between the Saxons and Ancient Britons; the Saxons never appear to have entirely conquered the country, then known by the name of Gwent; the numerous earthworks still existing show the contests which took place. After the Norman conquest, numerous Norman barons, to whom grants of land had been made, governed the country under the name of Lords of the Marches, and they here erected many castles to command the passes into the Welsh country; the ruins of many of these castles still exist; among the principal are Abergavenny, Caerleon, Caldicot, Chepstow, Dinham, Grosmont, Monmouth and Usk.

Monmouthshire was joined to England as an English county in 1535 by Henry VIII. but it was considered a Welsh county for the administration of justice until the reign of Charles II. when it was first included in the Oxford circuit. The legal authority of the Lords Marchers was only put an end to by act of 1st William and Mary, 1689: it is still, to a great extent, a Welsh county: the Welsh names of places are retained, and the lower orders still cling to Welsh customs and speak the language to an extent that renders it necessary in many churches to perform services alternately in Welsh and English: and in the Dissenting chapels Welsh is still more frequently used, to which may be attributed the great hold dissent has obtained here and in South Wales. The surface of the country is greatly varied; in the north and west hills rise to a considerable height: the Sugar Loaf is 1,954 feet; Blorenge, 1,720, and Skyridd Vawr, 1,601. These hills are intersected by valleys of great beauty, through which flow mountain streams, tributaries of the Usk or Wye. Towards the south, on either side of the mouth of the river Usk, are two large tracts of marsh land, called Caldicot Level and Wentlog Level, which are artificially drained and protected from the irruption of the Bristol Channel by sea-walls.

The principal river is the Severn, which forms the southern boundary, and into the estuary of which the other rivers-the Wye and the Usk-with their tributaries, empty themselves. The Monnow flows in from Herefordshire, and forms the north-eastern boundary, until it reaches Monmouth, where it joins the Wye, which then becomes the eastern boundary, and flows by Tintern and Chepstow to the Severn. The Usk rises in Brecknockshire and enters the county near Abergavenny, and flows, after a long and winding course, past Caerleon and Newport to the sea. The Ebbw rises in the north-west, and falls into the Usk below Newport. The Romney is the western boundary and falls into the Bristol Channel.

The Trothy, Honddu, Soar, Mounton brook, Rumy, Sirhowy, Avon, Llwyd and Sychan, are other streams.

In the Western portion of the county is the Monmouthshire canal, which starts from Newport, where there are commodious docks, and continues northward to Pontypool; north of Newport, near Malpas, the Crumlin Cana] joins the Monmouthshire Canal. The Brecknockshire Canal from Brecon enters the county near Abergavenny, and continues south till it joins the Monmouthshire Canal below Pontypool, thus giving it connection with Newport.

The county is well supplied with railways, the western half more so than the eastern: these railways are worked in connection with the Great Western and London and North Western railways, thus giving access to all parts of the British Isles. The principal line, Great Western, passes through the county from north to south, connecting Newport, Abergavenny and Hereford: on this road is the Pontypool Road Junction, from which starts the single line of railway to Usk and Monmouth, thence are branches to Chepstow, Ross in Herefordshire, and to Coleford, in Gloucestershire; and also the West Midland Railway (Newport section), worked by the Great Western through Pontypool, and across the celebrated Crumlin Viaduct to Merthyr Tydfil and Swansea. In the west of the county the Great Western Railway have one line, called the Eastern Valleys Railway, from Newport through Pontypool to Blaenavon, and another called the Western Valleys from Newport, through the valley of the Ebbw, via Risca and Abercarn, crossing the West Midland at Crumlin, thence to Aberbeeg, where it branches into two lines, one to Ebbw Vale and the other to Abertillery and Blaina, and Nantyglo, joining the Abergavenny line (London and North Western Railway) at Brynmawr.

In the extreme south of the county is the South Wales line of the Great Western from Gloucester through Chepstow, Portskewett Junction and Newport to Cardiff, and along the southern coast of Wales.

The Great Western Railway Company have constructed a tunnel in the bed of the Severn, from Portskewett in Monmouthshire to New Passage in Gloucestershire, at a cost of £1,500,000, to connect their lines and give more direct communication with the metropolis.

The Great Western Railway Co. have a service of motor cars from Newport to Merthyr, via Risca and Treharris.

The London and North Western Railway have a line from Abergavenny, westward to Merthyr Tydfil through Tredegar, having a branch from Beaufort to Ebbw Vale.

The Abersychan branch of the London and North Western Railway leaves the Eastern Valleys at Talywain or Abersychan and runs through Blaenavon to Brynmawr.

The Sirhowy Railway runs northward from Risca, on the Western Valleys Railway, crossing the West Midland to Tredegar, thence joining the London and North Western (Abergavenny) line at Nant-y-bwleh. The Rhymney branch of the Brecon and Merthyr Railway runs from Rhymney through the valley of the Rhymney river, on the extreme western border of the county to Newport: another line of this railway runs parallel on the opposite bank of the river Rhymney, in Glamorganshire.

The Pontypridd, Caerphilly and Newport railway places Newport in direct connection with Swansea and the coal district of the Rhondda Valley.

The principal industry of the county is connected with its mineral riches. The mines of coal and ironstone are of immense magnitude. Every branch of the iron and steel manufacture is carried on-such as manufacture of iron and steel rails, and there are railway plant and wagon works, nail works, anchor and chain cable works and steam engine and boiler works. Other branches of industry are in tin plate works and chemical works. Fire clay and brick clay is also produced. Bricks and tiles are largely made. Limestone and sandstone are raised in large quantities. Some flannel is made in the county.

The county contains 142 civil parishes, and is in the province of Canterbury and diocese of Llandaff, forming The archdeaconry of Monmouth, which is sub-divided into the rural deaneries of Abergavenny, Bedwellty, Blaenau Gwent, Caerleon, Chepstow, Monmouth, Netherwent, Newport, Raglan and Usk.

The county forms part of the Oxford circuit, has one Court of Quarter Session, and is divided into eleven petty sessional divisions, viz.: Abergavenny, Bedwelty (sittings at Abercarn, Abertillery, Blaina, Blackwood, Ebbw Vale, Tredegar and New Tredegar), Caerleon (sittings at Caerleon and Cwmbran), Chepstow, Monmouth, Newport, Pontypool (sittings at Pontypool, Blaenavon and Llanhilleth), Raglan. Skenfrith (sittings at Graig), Trelleck and Usk. Note:-Unless otherwise stated, sittings are held at the place giving name to the Division.

The municipal boroughs are: Abergavenny, population in 1911, 8,511; Monmouth, 5,269; Newport (county borough), 83,691. Other towns are Abersychan, 24,656; Abertillery, 25,763; Blaenavon, 12,010; Caerleon, 2,046; Chepstow, 2,953; Ebbw Vale, 26,261; Pontypool, 6,452; Rhymney, 11,138; Risca, 14,149; Tredegar 21,184, and Usk 1,495.

The Registration Districts are: —

Fairs & Markets

Abergavenny, fairs on third Tuesday in January, third Tuesday in March, May 14th, third Tuesday in June, last Tuesday in July, September 25 & third Tuesday in November; market day, Tuesday; fruit & vegetable market on Friday.

Bedwas, fairs on April 3 & October 6.

Blaenavon, fairs on April 16 & September 17; market day, Saturday.

Caerleon, fairs on May 1 & September 21.

Chepstow, fairs on the market day nearest March 1, market day nearest the Friday in Whitsun week; June 22 for wool & pleasure, Tuesday nearest August 1 for horses & the Friday before October 29; market day, Saturday, & on alternate Tuesdays for farming stock.

Monmouth, fairs second Monday in February, first market Monday in May & September & November 22; market day, Friday, & a market for cattle fortnightly on Mondays.

Newport, cattle fairs on second Wednesday in April, Wednesday in Whitsun week, second Wednesday in August & first Wednesday in November; June 23 for wool. Provision market daily, cattle market Wednesday & cheese market every Wednesday; market day, Wednesday.

Pontypool, fairs first Saturday on April 2 & 22, July 5 & October 10 for pleasure, horses, cattle, sheep & cheese; market days, Wednesday & Saturday.

Raglan, fairs on March 31 & on the Monday previous to the Hereford October fair.

Raggett, fairs fortnightly, on Mondays, for cattle, sheep & pigs.

Tredegar, market day, Saturday.

Usk, fair on April 20; wool fairs, Trinity Monday & October 29; Christmas fair, December 16; market day, Friday & cattle market the first & third Monday in every month.

The following Table shows the acreage under each kind of crop, and the number of horses, cattle, sheep and pigs in the County of Monmouth, as taken from the Agricultural Returns, 1918—19: —

Monmouth County Council

Local Government Act, 1388, 51 & 52 Vic. c. 41.

Under the above Act, Monmouthshire, after the 1st April, 1889, for the purposes of the Act (except the County Borough of Newport) is a separate and distinct administrative county (sec. 46—1-b) governed by a county Council, consisting of 19 Aldermen and 57 councillors.

The chairman is, by virtue of his office, a justice of the peace for the county, without qualification (sec. 46).

The police for the county is under the control of a standing joint committee of the Quarter Sessions and the County Council, to be appointed as therein mentioned (sec. 9).

The coroners for the county are elected by the County Council, and the clerk of the peace appointed by such joint committee, and may be removed by them (sec. 83—2).

The clerk of the peace for the county is also the clerk of the County Council (sec. 83—1).

The administrative business of the county (which would, if this Act had not been passed, have been transacted by the justices) is now transacted by the County Council.

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NAME, AND ANCIENT HISTORY

This county was formerly called Wentset and Wentsland, and by the Britons Gwent, from an ancient city of that name. The modern name of the shire is taken from the county town. The people inhabiting this and the neighbouring counties of Hereford, Radnor, Brecknock, and Glamorgan, were the ancient Silures, of whom Tacitus the Roman historian says, “The Silures were a fierce and warlike people,” whom neither clemency or severity could subdue. This character so enraged the Emperor Claudius, that he gave orders to Ostorius Scapula, then Roman Governor of Britain, to conquer or extirpate the Silures. Ostorius immediately endeavoured to make a conquest of this brave and valiant people, who had hitherto supported with honour their native independence, and defied even the power of the Roman eagle. The Silures were at this time under the government of the celebrated Caractacus. This heroic prince, after successfully resisting the attacks of the Roman general, was unfortunately taken prisoner, and conducted to Rome, to grace the triumph of his victorious antagonist. It was under such circumstances that Caractacus preserved a calm, but dignified temper of mind. Though led captive amidst the shouts of hostile multitudes, his demeanour was ___ch, as to gain him the admiration of his conquerors. His speech to the Emperor Claudius and Roman Senate, made a strong impression on all who heard him, and there were many among the auditory who, albeit unused to the melting mood,” wept for the misfortunes of this great and illustrious prince.

The Romans occupied the country of the Silures, from their full establishment in the reign of Vespasian, to the period of their final departure from Britain, when the mighty empire of Rome was fast approaching its dissolution. During the Roman dynasty, this county was in the province of “Britannia Secunda,” and the stations were “Blestium,” at Monmouth; “Burrium,” at Usk; “Venta Silurum,” at Caerwent; “Gobannium,” at Abergavenny; and “Isca Silurum,” at Caerleon, the head-quarters of the second legion, and seat of government for “Britannia Secunda.” Considerable remains of the three last-mentioned stations are still visible. The grand Roman road, according to the best accounts, led from “Aqua Solis” (the water of the sun) Bath, in Somersetshire, to Menevia St. David’s, in a direction through the counties of Pembroke, Monmouth, Carmarthen, and Glamorgan.

Various aqueducts, baths, tesselated pavements, columns, statues, urns, and altars, have been dug up in different parts of this county; an undeniable evidence of the Romans having occupied it. Archdeacon Coxe, the author of many celebrated works, says, in his “Historical Tour in Monmouthshire,” that a square or parallelogramical form, is the only indubitable mark of Roman origin. According to the criterion of this sagacious traveller, most of the Roman encampments and fortifications in this county are of this form; four only being rectangular.

In 1602 there was discovered at Caerleon a chequered pavement, and a statue in a Roman habit, with a quiver of arrows; but the head, hands, and feet were broken off. From an inscription found adjacent, it proved to be a statue of Diana. At the same time the fragments of two stone altars were dug up, one of which was erected by Hæterionus, general of Augustus, and proprætor of the province of Cilicia. There was also a votive altar dug up, from which the name of the Emperor Geta appeared to have been erased.

Long before the Saxons came into this county there were three churches at Caerleon, one of which was dedicated to St. Julian, another to St. Aaron, who both suffered under the Dioclesian persecution, and the third had monks, and was the metropolitan church of Wales. Near Caerleon, in 1654, a Roman altar of free-stone was found, inscribed to Jupiter and Juno. Towards the end of the 17th century, in the church of a village called Tredonnock, a fair and entire monument of a Roman soldier of the second legion, called Julius Julianus, was dug up, and near this place were also found other Roman antiquities.

SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT

This county is situated on the north shore of the Bristol channel, or Severn sea, and is bounded on the west by the river Rumney, separating it from Glamorganshire; on the north, small brooks and land-marks divide it from Brecknock and Herefordshire; on the east, it is bounded by Gloucestershire, from which it is separated by the river Wye from Redbrook to the Severn.

The situation of this county is picturesque, and particularly delightful. The eastern parts are woody, and the western mountainous; a diversified and luxurious scenery of hill and dale. Here the eye is enchanted with Sylvan shades, impervions woods, fields enriched with the finest corn, and meadows enamelled with flowers; there lofty mountains, whose summits reach the clouds, form a sublime and majestic view, highly awful and deeply impressive. Nor will the climate of this county be found inferior to its local beauties. It is salubrious, and friendly to convalescence and longevity. The air is pure, and if it is found in the mountainous regions of a bleak and piercing nature, yet it tends greatly to strengthen and brace the animal system, and precludes those disorders which prevail in a moist and milder atmosphere.

This county in length, from north to south, is thirty-three miles; its breadth, from east and west, twenty-six miles, and its circumference 110 miles. Usk is nearer the middle of it than any other market town. It comprises an area of 550 square miles.

The churches in Monmouthshire, from-their situation, mode of architecture, and general appearance, constitute unique and picturesque objects; Situated either on the banks of rivers, large streams of water, or else embosomed in trees, bursting upon the view, they create in the traveller the most delectable and pleasing sensations. The beauty of these picturesque objects, it has been remarked, can only be surpassed by a church situated at the back of the Isle of Wight, at the village of Thorley, the scenery surrounding which is inexpressibly charming. Mr. Britton, whose taste and judgment in the architecture of churches is unquestionably pre-eminent, thus expresses, himself as to the style of architecture of the churches in Monmouthshire.

“Many of them, particularly in the mountainous parts, are very ancient. A few may be referred to the British and Saxon periods, and several to the early Norman æra, which is evident from the circular arch, and the crenellated, billetted, and other mouldings, characteristic of those styles of building; but the larger portion are subsequent to the introduction of the pointed arch.

“Those assignable to the earliest period appear like barns, are of small dimensions, without collateral aisles, or any distinction of height or breadth between the nave and the chancel, and are destitute of a steeple. Those of the second epoch have, the chancel narrower, and less lofty than the nave; and a small belfry, consisting of two arches, for hanging bells, is fixed over the roof at the western end of the church. The third class consists of a nave, chancel, and tower, which in some instances is placed in the centre, in some at the side, and in others at the western extremity.

“A few in the eastern parts of the county have spires, and do not appear of earlier date than the thirteenth century. Few of the churches in this county have undergone much alteration since the Reformation, still exhibiting vestiges of the Catholic worship; such as rood-lofts, niches for saints, auricular recesses, and confessional chairs.”

A whimsical custom is yet prevalent in Monmouthshire, of white-washing the churches; and though such a practice produces no unpleasant effect, yet it assuredly, in the opinion of the author above quoted, “takes off that venerable aspect so impressively assumed by weather-beaten stone.”

Usually the body of the church is white-washed, and sometimes that high honour is conferred upon the tower also; the brush sometimes lightly skims over the battlements and parapets. Mr. Essex, in his remarks on ancient brick and stone buildings in England, thus accounts for this singular custom: “The Normans frequently raised large buildings with pebbles only, or with pebbles and rag-stbnes intermixed; as these materials made a very rough surface, the whole was generally covered, both internally and externally, with plaster and white-wash.”

Many remains of Popish superstition are visible throughout all the principality of Wales, in this county peculiarly. A custom prevails among the poor and lower class of inhabitants, both Catholics and Protestants, of begging bread for the souls of the departed, on the first day of November, or All Saints day; the bread thus distributed is denominated “dole bread.”

A very ancient and pious custom is still prevalent in Monmouthshire, viz. that of strewing the graves of the departed and the church-yards with flowers and evergreens, on festivals and holidays. The lower order of people and farmers are fond of conversing in Welsh, though they all understand English.

In some of the churches the service is performed alternately in the Welsh and English languages.

The county of Monmouth, though appertaining to England, yet, as having been formerly within the circle of the Welsh principality, some of the inhabitants are like their brethren inclined to credulity and superstition; hence the Catholic priests have been enabled to gain many proselytes to the doctrines of the church of Rome. But we observe with great pleasure, that this delightful county is in a progressive state of improvement. Many public-spirited gentlemen have introduced into it a taste for general science, and encouraged a sedulous attention to the grand interests of commerce, &c.

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS

This county is divided into six hundreds, viz. Skenfreth, Abergavenny, Wentloog, Usk, Ragland, and Caldicot; which comprehend 120 parishes, besides chapelries, and seven market-towns, viz. Monmouth, Chepstow, Abergavenny, Caerleon, Newport, Usk, and Pontypool. This county is now in the province of Canterbury, and in the diocese of Llandaff; except three parishes in that of Hereford, viz. Welsh Bicknor, Dixon, and St. Mary’s; and three in St. David’s, viz. Old Castle, Llanthony, and Cwmyoy.

CLIMATE AND SOIL

The climate is mild in the vales and southern parts, and gradually colder as we ascend the hills towards the confines of Breconshire, where the snows sometimes remain on the ground till a late period of the spring. The general humidity of the western districts of the kingdom is felt in this county, where the rains are frequently of long continuance. This moisture, however, is beneficial to the grazing parts of the county; and where the occupiers of farms, consisting of low and high lands, have the convenience of maintaining their cattle upon dry soils during the falls of rain, they are greatly benefited by the wet weather, which would be deemed an injury in tillage counties.

The great estuary of the Severn attracts the clouds of the western ocean, and causes torrents of rain to fall on the north and south shores much more frequently than on the inland parts of Wales, and the west of England; and this is one of the principal causes of producing such vast droves of horned cattle every year from the counties of Pembroke, Carmarthen, Glamorgan, and Monmouth, the whole range of country being fitter for pasture than tillage, by reason of the moisture of the climate.

The soil is of various kinds, but generally productive and fertile. The peculiarity of the county arises from its woodlands, forests, and chaces, some of which are of great extent, and do not appear to have been private property. The dimensions of those woodlands and chaces have been, however, gradually and regularly diminished by grants, and the intermixture of industry and negligence. Nearly one-third of the county is a rich plain, or moor, upon the shore of the Severn; one-third is made up of beautifully variegated ground, watered by considerable rivers, the hillocks cultivated or woody, and one-third assumes the mildest character of mountain, abounding with lovely vallies.

POPULATION

That of Monmouth, according to the returns of 1821, consisted of 37,278 males, and 34,555 females, making a total of 71,833 persons, occupying 13,371 houses.

RIVERS

The principal in the county are the Wye, which enters it two miles above Monmouth, and in passing that town and Chepstow, falls into the Severn sea three miles below the latter. The Usk enters the county near Clydach, passes Abergavenny, Usk, Caerleon, and Newport, and falls into the Severn sea three miles below the latter. The Rumney forms the western boundary of the county.

Monmouthshire is abundantly watered with fine streams, as the Avon, Llwyd, Beeg, Berddin, Cam, Cledaugh, Ebwy fawr and fach, Fidan, Gavenny, Gruny, Houddy Kebby, Lumon, Monow, Morbesk, Mythix Nedern, Olwy, Organ, Pill, Port-Meyric, Rhyd-y-mirch, Rumney, Severn, Gorwy, Tilery, Troggy, Trothy, Usk, Wye, Ystwyth.

The Mynow, or Monow, rises in Brecknockshire.

pursues its course south-east, and dividing this county from Hereford, falls into the river Wye at Monmouth.

The Rumney rises in Brecknockshire, and shaping its course south-east, divides this county from Glamorganshire.

The Usk rises also amidst the black mountains of Brecknockshire, and, with a south-east direction, separates Monmouthshire into nearly two equal parts; it then falls into the Severn near Newport.

The Ebwy has its source also in. Brecknock, and passing under the Beacon mountain, flows through the wild valley of Ebwy, and falls into the Usk below Newport.

The river Wye, which separates this, county from Gloucestershire, rises in Radnorshire. It is navigable for large barges to Monmouth, and ships of 800 tons burthen come up to Chepstow, where the tide rises with great rapidity.

CANALS

The Monmouthshire canal, began in 1702 and completed in 1798, is on the west side of the town, having a basin connected with the river Usk, and crosses the Chepstow road; from thence to Malpas, it pursues its route parallel to, and near the river Avon, by Pontypool to Poutnewidd, being nearly eleven miles, with a rise of twelve feet in the first mile, the remaining ten miles have a rise of 435 feet. From nearly opposite Malpas a branch takes its course parallel to the river Ebwy to near Crumlin-bridge. The Abergavenny canal communicates with the Brecon.

ROADS AND TRAMWAYS

Connected most essentially with the agricultural state of a county, is the condition of its roads. So singularly bad were the roads in Monmouthshire, antecedent to the turnpike act, that Valentine Morris, then representative for the county, being examined and interrogated what roads there were in Monmouthshire, replied “None.” “How then do you travel?” “In ditches,” replied the proprietor of Piercefield. The roads were so wretched as to become proverbially bad: a Monmouth road implying one scarcely passable. They were simply hollows formed by the action of water between the hills, with large banks, and lofty hedges thrown up on each side to prevent trespass. “In these Alpine gutters, for by no other more appropriate term can they be designated, the centre is invariably the lowest part, and frequent transverse channels run across, to prevent the too rapid descent of carriages, or to convey the water to some adjacent ponds.

“Since the construction of turnpike roads, however, considerable amelioration has taken place in this department, and excepting those imperfections which arise from the natural inequalities of surface, the principal turnpike roads are as good as most in England, especially those from Newport to Caerdiff, from the New Passage to Usk, and from Usk to Abergavenny; the mode of specifying the distances, and pointing the traveller to the direct road, is peculiarly eligible.“

The miles are developed by stones, having on each “London,” inscribed above; below, the names of the parish, and the distance in Arabic numerals, placed between. The right and left corners of the upper part of the stone being taken off, form two other faces; on each is the initial of the place it inclines to, and the distance in numbers.

Directing posts are also set up in various places, which are highly requisite, in consequence of the sinuous course many of the provincial roads take, especially among the mountains.

FARM-HOUSES AND COTTAGES

The farm-houses and buildings in this county are of two sorts: the old timber buildings covered with thatch, are still seen upon many farms; but the scarcity and dearness of timber preventing the repair and preservation of many of them, they have fallen into decay and disuse. Parts of the timbers have been employed in erecting stone-walled houses. Tilestone, a heavy but substantial covering, has been much in use, but it required strong timbers to support the weight of the stones laid in lime mortar, and sometimes in moss gathered from the neighbouring woods and morasses. This moss is preferred by many for barns and out-houses, where the natural moisture of the stone keeps it alive, and in a manner cements the stones together.

Thatched roofs have long been on the decline, on account of requiring so much straw to keep them in repair. Farm-yards, properly speaking, are scarce in this county. The farm-buildings, instead of being constructed in a square, so as to include a good warm farm-yard for cattle to winter in, are too frequently found in a scattered and random figure, affording the cattle neither shelter in winter or shade in summer.

Many plans of farm-yards have been published; but too many of them are so fantastically planned in sweeps, semi-circles, octagons, pentagons, and all the figures of geometrical construction, that it is irksome to see them on paper, and truly ridiculous to see them when built. A great deal of difficulty occurs in roofing them, and a deal of room is thrown away. The best form of a farm-yard, is considered to be that of a square or oblong, according to the circumstances of the ground. The whole should be so formed as to receive the most sunshine in the early part of the day. Farmers are too apt to covet a vast extent of barn-room, and even the hay has sometimes claimed the protection of a slated roof. Repairs of farm-buildings are done, or ought to be done, by the landlord; but these are generally best attended to by the tenants, when leases are granted.

COTTAGES

There is nothing peculiar in the construction of cottages in this county, so far as regards those inhabited by farm-labourers. They are generally built upon the most frugal plans, and garden attached to them sufficient to supply the family with common vegetables. The addition of a cow leaze, or summer-keep, is seldom desired, or even, thought of, as the difficulty of keeping a cow in the first instance is almost insurmountable. A plan for building cottages adopted among the collieries and iron-works, has procured the double advantage of saving timber and preventing fires They are built in a row, to any number wanted, and contain one tier of cottages over another. The ground-tier are arched, and a strong party-wall runs between every two dwellings. The roof of the upper tier is covered with tile-stone or slate, and the whole has a firm and neat appearance.

RENT, AND SIZE OF FARMS

The rent, and consequently the size of farms, vary considerably; and there are not many that would be deemed very large in the eastern parts of the kingdom. From sixty acres to 300, may be taken as the extent of farms throughout this county; but the lesser quantity predominates in point of numbers, and about 140 acres is, perhaps as near an average of the whole as may be.

LEASES

The rapid advance in the value of land of late years, ought to have induced many landlords to have granted them of reasonable length, much more generally than they have been; for no extensive or permanent improvement can possibly be expected from a tenant at will. A lease for twenty-one years would, on the contrary, encourage the tanner to advance his capital with confidence, in draining, manuring, and otherwise improving the lands; and if the life of himself, his wife and child, were added, it would prove a still stronger stimulus to his spirit and industry. This would also add greatly to the landlord’s importance at a county election, by giving him a preponderance of freeholders, and thus rendering him less dependent on the inferior class of voters.

TITHES

These are mostly commuted: some instances occur, of their being paid in kind, but not many. A modus of twopence per acre for hay ground, prevails in the parishes of Magor, Redwick and Undy. The lands in the level are titheable, and the value of the tithes is generally paid in money by the occupiers. Taking tithe in kind (though undoubtedly the right of the church), has been accompanied with much animosity between incumbents and parishioners; and has in no small degree been the occasion of the churches being so thinly attended.

IMPLEMENTS

The variety of these in this part of the country, does not appear to have been very great till of late years, during which they have been introduced through the many persons who have come to settle here from different parts. Many of them were proprietors of iron-works, and others have bought estates in the county, and judiciously improved them. Since this period, the long Herefordshire plough has been generally set aside, and the Rotherham swing-plough adopted in its room.

CATTLE

The best bred in the Vale of the hundred of Abergavenny, are of the Hereford kind, and much pains have been taken to procure bulls and heifers from that county, where the breed has been very highly improved, by the selection of the finest sorts under the care of intelligent breeders. “The fashion of blood,” as it has been technically called, of the Herefordshire cattle, has long since been brought to such excellence, that extraordinary prices have been given for the hire of bulls only for one season, nearly equal to what the celebrated Mr. Bakewell obtained in the days of his famous stock of bulls.

Among the breeders of the Vale of Abergavenny, Major Morgan of Hill-house has been conspicuous for his cows, bulls and heifers. The oxen are bought in at three years old, and worked till six or seven by some farmers; others have preferred buying in the spring, and after working them during the summer on the farm, have sold them again in the autumn to the dealers, who drive them into the counties eastward of the Severn for sale. Glamorgan cows are preferred by the women, as most profitable for the dairy; and the ploughmen approve of the Glamorgan oxen for team-labour, and for turning the quickest at the land’s end in ploughing.

HORSES

The breeding of horses is still necessary and profitable; and during the late war, there was a continual supply of them wanting for the cavalry, artillery, &c. This tempted farmers on tolerably roomy farms to breed colts for saddle and draught. The latter are most of the Herefordshire breed, strong, short, and compact in their make. There are but few horses reared in Ragland hundred, owing to the general wetness of the soil, The horse-teams in Abergavenny and Usk hundred, are good strong cattle, mostly black, and of the Hereford breed; some very good colts of the draught kind are seen in the vale; the native breed of the county is meagre, light, and uncompact, little adapted to the labours of the field, or to travelling.

MULES

Before the formation of the numerous rail-ways and canals in this county, the services of mules in the hilly districts were invaluable. The breed of this animal is still kept up, mules are now chiefly employed in carrying charcoal from the woods to the iron-works. They will carry 300 weight, and follow their labours all the year round every day in the week; which constant work is found too laborious for horses to perform. Mules will also generally sustain these hard services for twenty-five years, whilst horses rarely continue them more than twenty years.

ASSES

The town of Abergavenny has furnished employment for a considerable number of asses, and poor boys and girls to drive them; by which most of the inferior class of housekeepers in that town have been supplied with fuel, from the collieries on the hills to the westward of it.

SHEEP

The sheep of Monmouthshire are in general very small, and partake of the properties of the South Wales breed. They are slender in the bone, long in the leg, light in the carcass; the wool of a, coarse but rather short staple, the flesh, fine in its grain and of delicate flavour. Monmouthshire mutton is in high estimation in the metropolis, for its superior delicacy. The characteristic qualities of this species of cattle arises from the “migratory mode of feeding, and continual exposure to the vicissitudes of the weather.“

This peculiar breed is chiefly prevalent in the hilly parts of the county: in the middle and lower districts are found some of the true Ryeland breed, and numerous crosses have recently been tried with the Coteswold, South Down, and Dorset. The spirit of improvement in this respect has been kindled, and since the establishment of provincial societies, for promoting improvements in agriculture, we trust that greater exertions will still be made in the cultivation of the fine and rich soil of Monmouthshire, as also in the breeding of the cattle.

WASTES

Wentloog Hundred. —In the parishes of Bedwelty and Aberystwith, many extensive tracts of open commons have proved very unproductive, and unenclosed tracts of waste have been long complained of in Mynddyslywn, Risca, and Bedwas. The waste lands on this range of hills, at one period amounted to between fifteen and twenty thousand acres; this was some years previous to the enclosure act for the waste lands in the parish of Bedwelty. The parish of Trelleck, in the Ragland hundred, was much in the same predicament, and Caldicot-moor contained one thousand acres. —Earlswood-common, in the parish of Newchurch, was another valuable waste of about five hundred acres. The level of Wentloog is a tract of excellent fen land, about five thousand acres, extending along the coast from the mouth of Rumney river to the mouth of the Usk. Several other districts like this, previous to the recent acts of enclosure, were almost wholly occupied in pasture and meadow, the plough being very little used in them.

EMBANKMENTS

These upon Caldicot and Wentloog levels are perhaps peculiar to this part of the island. They are generally kept in good repair, and require a less degree of masonry work than others. Violent inundations have formerly covered the levels from Magor to Cardiff. In 1606, a flood rose five feet above the levels, drowning sheep, cattle, and some of the inhabitants. This is recorded by an inscription on the walls of St. Bride’s church. —The embankments of Caldicot level are faced on the outside with stone, and so are many parts on the inside. The shape of these embankments are the reverse of what we see in Lincolnshire, and other fen countries; the steepest side being next the sea; and the longest slope towards the land. The sea face of the bank is very upright, nearly a perpendicular, and the original earth bank has been faced with a strong walling of stone work, in which the best cement has been used, to enable the wall to resist the force of the sea in high tides and stormy weather.

The land side of these embankments are faced with stone, to secure them from being washed away by the water which dashes over and falls in great bodies upon the inner face. Some parts are faced with sod within, and where a proper slope has been preserved, these sod facings are very firm, and are less expensive than those made of stone. It is very likely that the first proprietors of the embankments, left a large foreground between them and the sea, upon which the waves were broken before they arrived at the foot of the bank. Thus an embankment with a steep facing might resist the weight and force of the tides. The sea, however, has greatly encroached on these shores, and having washed away all the foreground, and arrived at the bank, which it began to undermine, the application of stone-work became indispensable; and thence arose the stone walls which now protect this level from the ocean. Tradition says, that these marshes once extended to Denny, a little island lying three miles from the coast opposite Undy and Rogiet. In the memory of several persons lately living, the sea has gained upon the land at Goldcliff nearly half a mile. A facing of stone-work was made some years since, but it fell to pieces, owing to the workmen not having sunk a sufficient quantity of foundation for the wall. The priory of Goldcliff stands upon an eminence about forty feet higher than the coast east and west of it.

These sea-walls are maintained by the occupiers of the levels, by a prescriptive tax laid upon the lands in early limes; but not in equal proportions to their value, &c. This has arisen from the landholders selling off parcels of land from time to time, and leaving the burthen of repairing the embankments upon those that remained unsold. Hence many small parcels have been forfeited to the Court of Sewers, as the land is forfeited whenever an owner has neglected to repair his portion of the sea-walls, and his rents are applied to defray the expence of repairs; if these are inadequate, the surplus charge is defrayed out of the general fund of the level, which is raised by an acre tax, in the same manner as in Wentloog level. Goldcliff is the property of Eton-college, and in a bright sun shiny day it appears illuminated. The stones of the cliff being covered with a yellow mundick, probably occasioned its name. The sluice-gates are hung by their sides, and are said to be frequently kept open by sticks, rushes, and other things carried down by the floods. The outfalls of the fens in Lincolnshire are guarded by flood-gates hung by the top, which are found to answer better than otherwise.

NATURAL PRODUCE, TRADE, AND MANUFACTURES

The chief produce of Monmouthshire is iron-ore, coal, copper, limestone, free-stone, corn, oak and beech timber, oxen, sheep, mules, fine fish, particularly salmon, sewin and trout.

The trade consists in cloths, excellent flannels, and woollen stockings.

The extensive and valuable coal-mines in this county, were in a great measure shut up from general use until the year 1798. The exportation of coals from Newport to Bristol, Bridgewater, and the west of England, is now very considerable, and this branch of commerce is increasing every year.

The iron-works are the glory and pride of this county. The enterprising spirit of speculation is sufficiently displayed in the great works at Blaenavon, and other establishments on the north-western hills, which, owing to peculiar circumstances, and the local advantages of this county, are peculiarly great, as the district abounds in iron ore, coal, lime, numerous streams of water, and every requisite proper for this branch of business. These have been powerfully aided by mechanical powers, the use of the sleam-engine, the improvements in hydraulic machinery, and the adoption of rollers instead of forge-hammers, called the “puddling process,” by which bar-iron is formed with a degree of dispatch and exactness previously unknown. The extent and importance of these manufactories may be estimated by the following list.

Tredegar works, four blast furnaces worked by pitcoal and cokes, S. Homfray and Co. —Sirhowy works, two blast furnaces, pit-coal and cokes, Monkhouse and Co.-Rumney works, two blast furnaces, pit-coal or cokes, Hall and Co. —Union works, two blast furnaces, pit-coal or cokes, Hall and Co. —Beaufort works, two blast furnaces, pit-coal or cokes, Kendalls and Co.-Ebbwy works, two blast furnaces, pit-coal or cokes, Harfords, Crocker and Co. —Nant y glo works, two blast furnaces, pit-coal or cokes, Hill and Co. —Blaenavon works, four blast furnaces, pit-coal or cokes, Hill and Co. —Clyduch works, two blast furnaces, pit-coal or cokes, Frere and Co.-Abercarn works, furnace, forge and wireworks, charcoal, Hail and Co. —Machen works, Gellygwasted works, Bassaleg works, charcoal forge, &c. Partridge and Co. —Newport works, charcoal forge, &c. Jones and Co. —Caerleon works, charcoal forges and tin mills, Butler, Jenkins and Co. —Abbey Tintern works, charcoal furnace, forges and wire works, Thomson and Co. —Pontypool works, charcoal furnaces, forges, &c. &c. Capel Leigh, esq.-Trostre works, charcoal forge, &c. Harvey and Co.-Monmouth works, charcoal forge, &c. Partridge and Co. —Llanvillis on the Monow works, charcoal forge, &c. Harfords and Co.

The principal articles of manufacture in this county are conveyed by the Monmouthshire canal, namely, coals, timber, manure, pig and different sorts of manufactured iron. The nature, extent, and importance of this canal, may be estimated by a reference to the most recent account of its tonnage, published by the canal company.

Within these twenty years iron rail-ways and tram-roads have been constructed on the most approved methods, in every part of the county, to communicate with the canals. Nearly 300 boats of burthen are at present employed on the canals, and the number of waggons used on the public tram-roads is very great indeed, when we consider the extent of the different branches to the collieries, furnaces, forges, iron mines, limestone and freestone quarries, &c.

The commercial importance of this county may be expected to increase for many years to come, by reason of the extension of the old canals and the establishment of new ones from the ports of Bristol to the centre of the kingdom, and from Bridgewater to the interior of Somersetshire, Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, Devonshire, &c.

Considerable tracts of land near the iron-works, are improved by the ashes therefrom, and the use of it is extending in every direction, as the facility of conveyance by the rail-roads affords opportunities of procuring it on moderate terms.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

Mr. Hassal observes, with respect to this county, &c. That an attempt to equalize weights and measures have generally failed, owing to the prejudices of the lower orders of the people. It is quantity that most of the labouring poor look for in the market; they can exercise their own judgment as to quality, and therefore expect to see the grist-bag always filled up to its usual height.

“The difficulty of convincing the labouring poor, that buying and selling by weight, would greatly benefit them, has hitherto impeded the general introduction of weights in corn dealing; and it has always been found, at least wherever I have seen it tried, that the lower class of buyers, and especially the women, have raised clamours and riots against the introduction of weights. These riots have in some instances got to such a height, that even magistrates have been insulted in the open market, when in their official capacity, giving their aid and protection to the people who were exposing their articles to public sale according to rules prescribed by the laws of the land. Such being the case, the old and uncertain mode of selling by measure only, still prevails in this county and South Wales.“

The measure of Monmouth market varies according to the district of country the corn is brought from. On the Herefordshire side, the measure is barely ten gallons; on the west side of the town the measure is ten and a half, or near eleven gallons. It is probable that when the Welsh grain was of inferior quality to that of their neighbours from Herefordshire and Gloucesteishire, who were their rivals in the Monmouth market, the Welsh, in order to be upon a level with them, made up in quantity what they wanted in quality.

AGRICULTURE, AND LOCAL IMPROVEMENTS

Within half a century, more has been achieved in promoting an improved system of agriculture, than the wisdom of ages past had effected. In the mechanical as well as theoretical parts of this, noble science, discoveries have been made of the most important nature. The old system of agriculture was not set aside until the immense advantages arising from the improved plan of rural economy were forcibly impressed upon those most interested in the cultivation of land.

A farmers’ club is held at Chepstow, and they meet once a month. The good effects of such clubs are felt locally, but cannot extend to any great distance from the places where they are held. Their funds too are so limited, as not to he capable of doing much in the way of premiums, and other such acts as mark the exertions of a well-regulated agricultural society. Why such an institution has been so long delayed in the county of Monmouth, is a question to which it would be difficult to give a favourable and satisfactory answer.

Monmouth has, however, made rapid strides to improvement; as the establishment of canals and iron railways has given fresh life and vigour to every department of commerce and agriculture in the county. New companies have been formed; and old ones revived; agriculture is now assisted by the very great facility of conveying manure to the lands, and the produce to the markets, whilst an increased and increasing population establishes a certain demand for every kind of landed produce of this county. In some parts hops are grown; and in the hundreds of Ragland, Skenfreth and Abergavenny, the farmers make excellent cyder for home consumption, as well as for sale. The fisheries in the river Wye, Usk, and Rumney, produce a great annual supply of salmon, which are sent to Bath, Bristol, &c. for sale. Beech, elm, oak, and walnut trees, thrive uncommon well in this county, but the stock of large timber is much diminished, owing to the vast sums offered during the last war by merchants, for oak-bark and timber of every description.

During the sudden transition from war to peace, in 1814, and subsequent to that period, the oppressive operations of the poor laws were less felt in this county than perhaps any part of the kingdom.

Several friendly societies have been at different times enrolled at the Quarter Sessions, pursuant to acts of parliament thereunto relating..

The wages giver, to servants used in husbandry are as follows: first ploughmen, 7 s. to 9s.; second 6s. a week each, with meat, drink and lodging; labourers 12s. a week in winter, 15s. a week in summer, finding themselves; and from 4l. to 8l. a year for women servants, according to their strength and abilities.

EMINENT OR LITERARY CHARACTERS

This county has not produced many persons of eminence. Geoffrey of Monmouth was a native of this town. He was a learned monk of the Benedictine order, and wrote a translation into Latin of a British history, entitled, “Brut y Breninodd” or, The Chronicles of the Kings of Britain, &c. &c. He lived in the twelfth century. —Henry V. King of England, was also born in the town of Monmouth. It would be an act of the highest degree of injustice to literary genius and talents, to elaborate researches of antiquarian and historical information, not to pay a tribute to the unwearied exertions of the Rev. Archdeacon Coxe, in exploring this county. Scarcely ever has a British traveller acquired such just and well-merited renown as Mr. Coxe; his eulogium is, the approbation of the inhabitants of Europe and the world. Nor should we refuse the palm of merit to that pleasing and interesting tourist, Captain Barber. —And, finally, the late Rev. David Williams, the historian of Monmouthshire, the founder of the Literary Fund, has been eminently successful in developing the arcana of historical events, and adding to the stock of British literature an invaluable acquisition.

We have also to add our grateful acknowledgments to Mr. E. F. Barrett, for the liberal communications and corrections which he has furnished for the present work. Our apology for a partial deviation from his proposed arrangement of the materials, is only that of preserving the uniformity of the method pursued in the other English counties. Besides the additional sheet of thirty-six closely-printed pages, not calculated upon by Mr. E. F. Barret, he has compelled us to enlarge many of his abbreviations, and to adopt other alterations, necessary in this improved edition.

However, “places commonly visited by tourists, or worthy of remark, have been generally described in the pages subsequent to those which contain an account of the towns near which such places are situated; it„is obvious that such an arrangement is more useful and convenient to the reader, than the old method of describing the hundreds at the end of the Itinerary. The New Passage road, which is the mail route, and principal road in Monmouthshire, was omitted in Mr. Cooke’s work. It is now described.”